ANOTHER BAD 2.7 Ecoboost? 2018 F150 Twin Turbo V6 DEAD @ 131k Miles
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มี.ค. 2024
- For parts Email us at Sales@importapart.com or visit www.Importapart.com!
Here's weekly dose of your catastrophic engine forensics! Every week you can find a new teardown of some abused, misused and/or poorly designed engine. Here are some of my favorites:
Neglected VR30DDTT • 60K Miles on 1 Oil Cha...
Poor Honda S2000 F20C • Honda S2000 F20C1 Cata...
The Nissan VQ40DE I saved from the scrap pile • Found a Nissan VQ40DE ...
Honda J35 that deleted itself • Obliterated Honda Acco...
Today we have another 2.7L Ecoboost V6 out of a 2018 Ford F150 with 131,800 miles! This is the second Gen-2 2.7 Ecoboost I've had on my stand and it was a core return from a sold engine from another yard. This engine was vastly different from the last one albeit some of the failures don't seem to add up! I'm not exactly sure HOW this happened, but the damage was done under load, that is FOR SURE!
Why am I doing this? My name is Eric and I own and run a full service auto salvage business called Importapart. Part of our model includes buying blown up engines and dismantling to salvage the good parts to resell. We do not rebuild or repair engines, we simply supply parts to people who do! I've left links at the top to reach us about parts.
I really hope you enjoyed this teardown, as always I love all of the comments, feedback and even the criticism. Catch you on the next one!
-Eric - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
"Oil pump drive belt" shouldn't even be a phrase that exists. Thanks car makers, for racing to the bottom....
I was shocked that GM chose a belt for oil pump on the 3.0 Duramax. I wonder if Isuzu had been the major on the 3.0 like they were(are?) on then6.6 Dmax, if a belt would have been used.
What a horrible design.
pLaNnEd ObSoLeScEnCe 🤪
"Lifetime" (of the warranty 🙄)
yeah I figured someone somewhere had to make an aftermarket metal chain for that by now
@@raider762oh no, the design is perfect for what it's job is, to make you buy a new truck...
In that case, I wouldn't be buying another one of THEIR trucks 👋🤠 bye LOL
Eric - my father-in-law is visiting today, and went to the store. When he returned he said he found something in the parking lot and held out his hand. He had found a socket. I said "let me guess. Is it a 10 mm?" He looked surprised and asked me how in the world I guessed the size. It was from watching your channel and learning that 10 mm sockets run away at night.
When you say you would sell it as a builder what do you mean by that? Do you mean like you put all of the parts in a bin or 2 and sell it complete minus the maintenance parts
Hey, that one is mine, lost it last week. Give it back!
@@smoothlover073builder really just means you could send it to the machine shop for a rebuild and they wouldn't call you up to tell you it can't be saved
That’s mine! I lost it
Yes they do...!
You didn't investigate why piston was rocking side to side, now I won't be able to sleep😂
He said he wasn’t sure. He thought maybe it needed oil pressure
@@daviddorge1559 never heard of the little end wrist pin needing oil pressure... clearance of a pin is usually only thou or two.
Bigger clearance will cause more of a hammer blow at TDC firing?
Obviously diameter x length = load capacity?
www.google.com/search?q=what+is+correct+piston+pin+to+piston+clearance%3F&rlz=1CABVOQ_enGB1100&oq=what+is+correct+piston+pin+to+piston+clearance%3F&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigAdIBCTE4Njc0ajBqOagCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:9b189cbc,vid:ZZ1X1BPGeJM,st:0
Top Fuel dragster conrods are claimed ot shorten considerably after a few passes so what is happening in the piston pin bores and to the roundness of the pins and pin bore in both piston and conrods?
That melted chain guide kind of deserved further investigation too but it won't keep me up at night. 😄
Ha ha.
Had to be wear in the pin holes in the piston, given the pins are a seize fit in the rods....unless it wasn't a seize fit any more of course. Can't imagine how oil pressure would affect pin clearance?
But, yes, would be nice to have that investigated a bit more.
A Ford engineer would tell you "We pulled $1.29 out of each engine by using that belt instead of a chain" and the look on his face would tell you that he was PROUD of what he had done...
I don’t think it was the engineers that were penny pinching.
@@TheXGamer969Agreed. Corp executives and consultants…ruining this country one penny at a time.
GM has done this many times. Putting a tranny designed for a CHEVY CHEVETTE (THM 200) in a big 77 Caprice Classic? NOT putting a vibration balancer on the 2.5 "Iron Duke" (except for a few at the end)? I heard GM once put PLASTIC sprockets in the dealership parts bins for some of the 1970s MONZAs, but I heard they were recalled because GM realized these were STUPIDLY BAD quality.
@@TheXGamer969 And the engineers definitely won't be proud of it. But the bean counters will get very excited.
@@williamjones7821 "Stop talking about the stupid cost cutting stuff Ferd is doing let me change the topic here's some stupid stuff GM did 50 years ago hur dur hur."
Missing the most valuable part the water pump, what a shame
I'm mortified - No waterpump! But you're somewhat redeemed by your rubber hose removal. "What's this No Joke sealant you speak of?"
Eric needs to send it back.
I like it when he yeets parts across the shop 😊
We all know Eric values nothing higher than his beautiful chains
I keep all my water pumps now.
The sawzall on the radiator hose had me chuckling. Thanks for the show.
I'm just waiting for him to use it on a dipstick tube!😃
That wear on the chain guide is from the tensioner failing and applying too much pressure, causing excessive heat.
Ah good reasoning...I was trying to figure that out and failed to so I thought I'd double check the comments nice thanks.
Yeah I was thinking if a tensioner failed and messed up the cam timing if that led to the valve burn.
I'd put money on that being the original problem, causing enough friction & wear on the chain guides to screw up the timing just enough to cook that valve. Just wish we could've seen what caused the slop in that one cylinder. 🤷♂️
Ahh but what would cause it o put MORE rather than less tension? How about some accumulated spooge pudding getting into the and behind the plunger. Just spitballing here as I’ve never seen this myself…..thankfully
@@phillipfritz7014 OK. I'll come clean. I actually have no idea what happened, so I just threw out a wild guess. Maybe I'm right, but I seriously don't know.
As soon as you said why would somebody take a water pump and reuse it. I thought well that the engine overheated. Because it had a bad water pump. They replaced it and then the engine died. So the water pump wasn't that old. So they took it and put it on the used engine. Now I'm making this, 20 minutes into the video I could be totally wrong I have been before. So if you are taking apart a good engine why don't you rebuild this one that'd be a treat for the channel.
Installing used pumps of any kind is a dumb liability for a shop. A "chain of custody" is more important than "saving a buck" if you are standing behind your work.
But do we have any proof that a shop did the work? At the age of 58 I retired and sold our 12 Bay body shop. I have seen a lot of weird things owners of cars and trucks have done.
@aregeebee201 head gaskets sometimes fail in a way you can't see it on them.
Probably replaced engine because that piston wrist pin wear was causing knock, and the ECU, thinking this was detonation, due to the timing on that cylinder, had pulled power way back. Then the lowered fuel input meant the cylinder was running ultra lean, and this, combined with probably a small carbon particle that got stuck on the valve, caused it to wear, and then the ECU carried on running that cylinder ultra lean, leading to the valve seat eroding as the combusting fuel mix kept on bleeding by. You can see the run marks of the metal being eroded away. Engine replaced because ECU told of misfire on one cylinder, bad knocking and lack of power, along with very lumpy idle. Compression test said cylinder really bad on leak test, so scrap engine instead of stripping head, because the used engine is cheaper than a strip, repair and assemble labour wise. Pump likely removed because it was faulty on the junkyard engine, probably leaking water, so to cut cost they swapped with the old one.
@@jamesgeorge4874 do you understand how ridiculous you should? If you buy a used vehicle do you replace every used pump of any kind? Educate the comment section on just how the water pump would be untrustworthy in the OP's theory, I dare you...FFS.
How wonderful to get 2 tear downs in one week. You’re a wonderful man
I can't understand why they put so much resource and design in the casting, overly so IMHO, yet cheaped out on a fibre oil pump belt. But yet another great video, thanks Eric.
Because a bean counter did the comparasion, and the belt worked out to a few cents cheaper, plus it added 0.001MPG improvement in the standard test cell run.
Loyal toyota buyers spend hundreds of thousands buying toyotas their entire lives then upgrading to Lexus. This dork loses all that future business by screwing his own customers over $1.
We all feel your pain about not having a perfectly good water pump to shoot from the 3-point line...be strong; there'll be another one soon, I'm sure!
I was quoting a MX13 for a 2025 Kenworth T680 yesterday. Engine was $63,000 and the core was $8,000. The truck has 6k miles on it and was in a crash bad enough to break the block
The Cummins in our 2000s Freightliners run about 10k for a rebuild. They refuse to look at new motors cuz it's ridiculous.
This is why companies like mine buy wrecks. We salvage all sorts of shit from them and use it to rebuild others. We can build up a truck with 10k miles for $100k when a used one with miles like that is $275k+ easily. Saves so much money.
Wow
You need to remember that those blocks are graphite composites. Strong internally, weak when outside forces are inflicted on it. I hear they are now making sleeve kits for when you have to inframe the engine instead of purchasing a short block.
How much is a brand new truck? 🤣
Never was a car guy or knew much of anything about them till I stumbled upon this channel. Watched every teardown over the past year and love knowing how my brand new Subaru works and how to protect it. Would love to make sure my boxer doesn't end up on this channel.
Cheers bro,
Oh I think he done a boxer… one of the worse
Be sure and include the water pump. The tear-down is simply not the same without it.
Same here, I'm just some I.T. nerd. His recent GM 3800 video was suggested to me, I had 3 cars with that engine in the past, I thought what the heck. Then he has videos of known-problematic engines, so I watched those too, I've been hooked ever since. Funny how The Algorithm™ works LOL
Change your oil, Now!
Question, was it Thanos or Agent Smith who thought they were a Subaru when it comes to Boxers and this channel...? 😅
I don't remember if it was mentioned in any of the other 2.7 vids but the reason for the interesting block construction is because it's made from compacted graphite iron (cgi) which is significantly stronger than standard cast iron, it's the same type of iron that Nascar engine blocks are made from. It's really a shame other manufacturers haven't taken the plunge to invest in CGI blocks because it offers significant gains over standard cast iron.
Also, the coating on the bearings was introduced into Ford engines (and likely other brands too) when they made auto start-stop systems standard to increase MPG ratings. The coated bearings hold up much better to repeated frequent restarts than uncoated bearings.
Good to know. I can’t believe how good those bearings looked with nearly 140k.
What is the point of a cgi block and then fit a belt in oil - bad engineering!
but they use a wet belt, negating all benefits of those innovations
@@Veikra have you heard of any failing?
@@D3M0ify So what's wrong with a wet belt other than it's something none of us are used to seeing? Find us a wet belt 2.7L Ford that has blow up due to a failed wet belt. Crickets 🦗🦗
I work the service parts counter at a large Ford dealership and we would replace. It's faster to replace the engine than repair plus the customer gets a warranty. Aside from the oil pump belt and plastic oil pan, I think that Ford did a pretty good job with the 2.7L. I feel it is the least seen engine needing major repairs in the shop.
That's odd because I have a watched a couple of other videos of Ford mechanics where someone goes around and asked what motor they would buy and pretty much all them said the V8. I peryonoe 3 friends that have had there 2.7 "eco" boost motors blow up. One the dealer has to do two!
@@apwurst The 5.0L is also one of Ford's better engines. There is definitely less to break on the 5.0L plus you can't beat that V8 rumble. I think we have to understand though that Ford builds hundreds of thousands of engines every year so there will be a few with manufacturing defects.
@@doomspeaker1256 this is true. IF I wanted an F150, I'd go with the 5.0 just because I like the V8 burble/rumble. EcoBoost trucks don't have much of a voice out of the box.
Sadly the new 5.0 won't live any longer before needing torn down. They now use rubber bands to drive the oil pump also.
@@05milmachine90 lol wat? The 5.0 oil pump is driven off the crank proper, always has been.
I have an old 1994 Chevy 1500 pick up, it always needs something every 6 months or so even though I only put maybe 5K miles a year on it. When I look at the complexly of late model trucks and the price tags I stop my bitch fest fix my 100 to 300 dollar problem and close the Auto Trader screen on my computer
Same here, only I have a 1998 Saturn SL. Way too many things that can go south on that engine he just tore down.
Replace it with a Tundra.
No more repairs and it will out last you. Plus the drive is as good as pickups get.
@@jamierose4088 Except the Tundra now comes with a standard 3.5 TT. What's amazing is how they essentially copied Ford down to the displacement but their 3.5s are having teething issues.
Turns out when you're a lame company that coasts its reputation on old underpowered engines with lots of slop built in, you have a hard time designing a powerful and efficient engine when the market demands it.
Surprised you didn’t further examine the piston with all the multi direction play in it. Be interested in knowing the condition of the wrist pin in that one.
I have a collection of burnt exhaust valves on my "shelf of shame"... And every single one came from a stock engine with excessive oil consumption. Hard to say why this Ecoboost burned a valve. A bad injector would melt the piston long before a valve got torched 🤔
A turbo engine is like having a build in cutting torch....lol You can see the cutting lines on the valve like it was cut with a torch. Which it was by the turbo.
Honestly it was probably tuned and he got some bad gas. Detonation turned into a plasma cutter. Seen it before.
Never miss my Saturday teardowns. Cheers Sir
It’s amazing how fast you pump out good quality content. When I’m waiting on everyone else to post i always have your videos pop up ad I love watching em.
I love when you said "I'm gonna remove this hose the right way"
*squeezes clamp, SAWZALL*
fwiw my work truck is also a 2018 2.7, and i use all 400 ftlbs that thing makes 5-6 days a week, 50-200+ miles a day. i drive that thing like its a racecar, pedal to the metal, if its not idling its redlining. i also get the oil changed at jiffyboom or whatever only when the dash tells me (so around 10k miles i think), and the only work it has needed engine wise is a water pump about a year ago and a set of coils and plugs about once a year (yes really). the best part?
it has 188.5k miles right now, will hit 190k by may, and if it doesnt make it to at least 200k by new years it either blew up, crashed, or i was fired.
Get it tuned, man. Livernois Motorsports or any of the others and on 93 octane it'll make 400hp and like 500ft/lbs of torque and be just as reliable as ever. Even with stock everything else, I have the 2.7 in my Ford Edge which is heavier than an equal model truck, and it runs 12.9's on just a livernois tune on 93 octane. Would be even faster if it was RWD bias AWD instead of the FWD bias/haldex type AWD system it has. The F150s and up that have the 2.7 will run mid 12's all day on just a tune and maybe an exhaust/intake system. Crazy.
Thanks for continuing to make such great videos, Eric.
Once i saw the valve, i would have stopped there...thanks for continuing on in the name of science!
Every time I see you do a 2.7t I get excited that it's an old Audi 2.7t from the b5 s4/c5 a6/allroad, and then I'm still happy because a lot of times these have spectacular failures! Love the work man, keep it up!
The only thing about good ol' uncle rodney is, you can't hear him knocking if he's been evicted🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Nah, I think he payed his rent this time.
I wanted to say I absolutely love your videos and I love that you used the borescope because I noticed the date which was filmed on my birthday. As always your videos are informative and common sense but yet you have a very entertaining way of driving home common Sense things that people don't understand when purchasing used auto parts. As always I love your videos and I don't know why but I had a really hard birthday but seeing the date definitely made my birthday seem a little bit better.
I am happy that I just bought a three valve 5.4 liter 2009 Ford f150. The timing components and oil pump were changed shortly before I bought it for $1700. It still was having timing issues. I found the cam position sensor connection plug was bad. i was so happy. It is perfect now.
Hey, you used a borescope! hahaha!
awesome. Seeing that oil level and the timing chains moving was really instructive for me. Great video as always.
You know what would have been a great April fools joke, is to tear down a good well maintained engine😂!! Happy Easter
the more i see of these 2.7's the more i like them. the coolant crossover tube in the back and clean valves from the port injection addition is really nice!
I have heard the phrase "burnt valve" many times, never actually seen one. Thanks for that!
Two days ago I tore down my very first engine.
And I was very shocked, it sat outside for 6 years and I didn't have a single bolt fight me and it's completely rebuildable.
175€ delivered to my door 😂
Dry climate?
@@MattyEngland nope, Germany.
The thing was rusty as hell form the outside
@@Birb_of_Judge BMW? All bolts come with a coating from the factory, to make assembly torque more precise, but it also protects the threads as well.
@@SeanBZA no a NB Miata 1.8L
I just love the brilliant design of these engines. Plastic drain plug that always leaks, with the sway bar directly in front of the plug. Once you pull that plug, it gushes out like on a Subaru, hits the sway bar and goes EVERYWHERE
The drain plug leaks because people reuse them. They're a service item and you're suppose to use a new one every time. Ford tells you this in the maintenance manual. You can invest in aftermarket unit like the Ronin drain plug that converts it to an all metal design that has a smaller orifice to drain out of, but honestly once you drain it once you know not to just rip it out as fast as possible, and to hold it like he did. Or just hold the bucket RIGHT up to it, and let it drop in there after you crank it off, and replace it with a new one like ford said. No mess, no oil everywhere, and it drains in like .7 seconds. Lol.
I absolutely love this channel and your videos. Rock on dude
Keep the videos coming. Really enjoyed this one. I'm no longer an engine mechanic (was years ago late 70's early 80's era) and always like to watch your tear downs which help me keep up on current production engine tech and longevity which I love knowing about.
Very interesting. I'd still like to see you do a Ford 2.3 Ecoboost, From a Ranger or Mustang.
Ok, how many of us were waiting for him to catch the cram cap bolt he missed trying to lift it off
I was yelling, "You missed one". But I am a day too late for him to hear me. Ted from down under.
I actually raised my voice when I saw it; my phone didn’t do its job and tell him though…
Keep up the awesome teardown videos!! Educating and entertaining for sure
Here we go! Thanks Eric! 👍
Your videos are great! I'm learning so much more about my Gen-1 2.7l EcoBoost Engine inside my 2017 Ford Fusion Sport than I ever will scouring random forums about my car.
I have a 2017 Ford Fusion Sport and had to have that engine (2.7l EcoBoost Gen 1) replaced because it blew a head gasket and leaked coolant into the cylinders, but based on your past breakdown videos on both the Gen 1 and 2 2.7l EcoBoost engines, I have a more complete understanding of what makes this engine tick. The replacement engine costed almost $5k including labor to replace, luckily I bought an extended warranty that covered everything bumper to bumper when I bought the car.
I bought this car second-hand off of Carvana, so I didn't know how this car was treated before me. I found out, after I bought the car, that the car had 1 quart oil low and there was no oil on the dipstick when I was getting an oil change, me being a buffoon and not knowing anything about my own engine at the time, ignored that warning sign. Six months later, my engine started consuming coolant and was emitting white smoke out the tail pipes, I was wondering if there was a leak or something, but I couldn't find a leak anywhere, come to find out the coolant was leaking into the cylinders.
One cold morning, I was accelerating hard on the on-ramp on to a freeway, a giant cloud of white smoke covered the freeway and my engine completely shut down. That was when I knew the head-gasket blew and coolant flooded my cylinders. I think the previous owner of this car neglected the car and the engine and let it overheat from oil starvation. My car was in the shop for 6-months, because 2-months was searching for a replacement engine. Apparently this engine is hard to find. The 2.7l v6 EcoBoost is a marvel of an engine, paired with an AWD drive-train in a four-door car makes for some fun driving. I'm also happy to know that the Gen 1 2.7l engines have chains for oil pumps, although it doesn't have both Port and Direct injection, I'm okay with that.
The replacement engine now gets an oil change every 3000 miles, I don't care about Ford's 5000 or 7000 mile recommendation. I'm not giving the replacement engine a chance to oil starve. The replacement engine is also now modified with a CAI, GFB+ Diverter Valve, and 93 gas tune. I've also upgraded the brake lines to Steeda Stainless Steel brake lines, I saw a manufacturer recall on how weak the front brake lines could be on this model and year car so I decided to upgrade all four brake lines to braided stainless steel. Keep your 2.7l and 3.0l Ecoboost videos coming. Your videos are super educational and you've got another subscriber!
I had a 2017 Lincoln MKX AWD with the Gen 1 2.7L turbo. It’s the same engine that is in your car and I agree it is a blast to drive and is a perfect match for a car that size and weight. It was probably OK in an F150 if treated very gingerly without any towing, but I would still have wanted a larger engine in a truck.
I’m retired so I don’t drive that many miles, but after reading about the issues with that engine; only direct injection, plastic oil pan gasket issues and other assorted moderately expensive maintenance necessary at 60K, I got out of it early. If I had a 2018 or later, I probably would have kept it a little longer, but there were still too many potential problems so it was best to move on before the repair and big maintenance bills hit all it once.
Don't be hard on yourself. It's most likely that your 2.7 had the dreaded long block defect that plagued something like 1 in 3 2.7s for a few months of 2016 manufacturing.
A supplier screwed up and delivered a batch of long blocks with uneven decks which caused the gaskets to eventually fail and leak coolant.
121k on mine. Bought at 85k. No clue about prior maintenance, but it lives a pampered life now. So far so good.
I wouldn't wait on that oil pump belt service considering they start to shed debris that will clog up the oil pickup screen. If the previous owner short tripped the truck a lot, it will degrade much faster. They seem to break down faster due to exposure to unburned fuel in the engine oil.
@@hochhaulhave you torn down or repaired a lot of ecoboosts?
What year is your 2.7? I’m at 126k with my 2017.
25:03 I really appreciate you taking the time to show us what you're looking for when diagnosing an engine
The first set of cam caps sounded really good during the cracking process. Perfect double click clacks lol
The 3.8 liter engine in my Buick makes over 600 pound feet of torque at the tires on 28 psi of boost. High power in the small engines isn’t what kills them if they’re maintained right. My engine doesn’t have an oil pump belt though lol….
As far as I know, the oil pump belt has not oil related problem, it has problem with short run time where its not warm and running rich. This makes some of the gas gets inside the oil and the gas is killing the belt.
At least the belt is clean. 😂😂😂
Glad you got a nice engine for a change! KInd of hard to know what a shop would do when insurance companies are totaling perfectly good repairable vehicles. Maybe replacement parts were hard to come by and an engine swap was cheaper. Happy Easter!
Awesome video happy Easter
I have a 2018, 2.7, With 135000 miles on the F150. No problems. I hope I didn't jinx it! I change my oil every 4000.
Ronnin aftermarket oil plug is a must!
Ls swap it. You'll get 300k, at least. And that american muscle sound 😎
Lol apparently youve missed the ls videos hes done😂@@Ballen1182
@@Ballen1182why when the coyote is better and a more direct swap
@@doug350zTToh the oil eater?
Come all from far and wide. Sit down, grab your favorite drink and enjoy a wonderful Saturday evening engine tear down with some dad jokes
Here here
And yeeted parts
but sorry, Water Pump couldn't make it here tonight 😭
Always love the uncle Rodney jokes. This is the best TH-cam channel out there!
So for the oil pump belt Ford “recommends” replacing every 150k miles… or when it snaps, which ever comes first😂😂😂
3.0 Duramax has an oil pump at back of engine. Transfer and trans out for its 150K service. I expect those will have a value drop and be traded at 147k miles when the word gets out.
@@jimmyaber5920 Random comment. Deflecting much? Don't like everyone mocking Ford's very stupid engine design decision to continue using oil pump belts?
You make it sound terrible that they put their oil pump belt at the back of the engine. It takes FAR FAR more labor to pull everything off the front of the engine, including the harmonic balancer and timing chain (which realistically, if you're in there, you're probably going to just go ahead and replace the phasers and timing chains), just to chain the Ford belt at the front of the engine. In contrast, the 3.0 Dmax will require dropping or at least sliding the transmission back enough to pull the flex plate and open an access cover that exposes the oil pump belt. Next you change the belt. Now that you're done, reinstall the stuff you removed. I know which one I would rather do.
@@hochhaulevery manufacturer has issues. There’s no escaping it.
@@jimmyaber5920 Given the long term issues their transmission have, the GM will likely need a TQ converter replacement before 150K anyway, can conveniently do the oil pump belt then.
At which time, an engine is required, so need for a belt.
People are still driving 20 year old trucks? Not me! My truck won’t be 20 years old for several more months. It’s a 2005 F150 FX4 with that unreliable 5.4 3v. It had 25 miles on it when I bought it in early 2005 and it has 345k miles on it now. Had to rebuild the transmission a couple years back, but otherwise it’s original. Even the water pump. 😐 I’m towing my travel trailer around Arizona right now. Damn thing. 😎✌🏼
Cam phasers definitely
@@xinx-fn8973 They’re original. Engine has never been opened up. Replaced the throttle body long ago. Original starter, alternator, water pump and hoses. All original timing gear. I do all my own maintenance and have worked on cars since I was 13. I’m 69 now. It’s a great truck. Still gets the same gas mileage it always has. Has a little piston slap when it’s below forty degrees in the morning, but otherwise. 👍🏼
My 5.4 3V has 159k and needs phasers. It's coming soon. I've only owned it since 132K and it has a good life with me, i.e., frequent maintenance.
@@JimBronson I’m shooting for 500K! 😁
I’ve got a little piston slap when it’s cold out, but it goes away pretty quick. I was an automotive machinist back in the day and I’ve worked on cars for over 50 years. I’m really amazed how well this thing still runs. It’s so quiet at idle that all you hear are the noisy fuel injectors clicking. 👍🏼
Great video on an impressive condition engjne for 131k. Have a Happy Easter Eric!
Yeah what a shame the owner clearly took immaculate care, with short oil change intervals but parked it somewhere that collected a birds nest in the valley. He did the right things to keep it going for 200k+ miles and then got the rotten luck of a burnt valve.
Another informative class, I wish school had been more like this. Love seeing all the 2.7 Eco Gen 2s from F150s. I know you can only get what you get, but I'd love to see a Gen 1 from the Fusion Sport with only DI and check their valves. Plus, you could show the Built Ford Tough chain drive oil pump.
The damaged chain guide would tell me an over extended rev.
Most people are tuned in watching Elite Eight. I’d much rather be watching this tear down video on a Saturday night!🔧
What's elite eight?
@@mediocreman2 🏀
Thank you Eric!👍
Thanks for showing the intake valves this time!
That drain plug reminds me of my craftsman lawn tractor engine's rapid evac. drain 😂😅
I can not decide if I like pop of the coil overs being pulled, or the crack of the headbolts being loosened.
Definitely the head bolts for me.
Head bolt crackage 🥰🎶🔧🔩
Coil pop
As long as it's not snap, crackle and pop.
Head bolt SMR
Eric, not sure what you put into the making of your videos but whatever it is I am becoming addicted ! 🤣
Eric, love your channel. You're my go to on a Sunday morning and sometimes a bonus twofer week. I know you do cars but any chance of a Polaris inline 2 cylinder or a canam rotax? I own both but have never seen the insides especially from your expert perspective. I'm sure they have a beautiful chain or high value water pump that you could resell.
When a mfg introduces a newly designed engine they should be required to give it a 150k mile warranty for the first 2-3 years of production. Gives people a chance to learn things like the belt driven oil pump. At least after a couple years you know these things about motors and have the ability to not buy it because those of those properties. When people stop choosing the 2.7 v6 because of the belt driven oil pump they'll be forced to change it
Get ready to see fuel economy and power ratings drop as manufacturers are forced to make underpowered and sloppy engines that won't break no matter what because they can't afford a 150k mile warranty.
The fact of the matter is that most people treat their cars like garbage, and you'd have to spend CRAZY amounts of money and time building engines that could last to 150k miles for those people.
Your idea is stupid.
28:30 ? Never mentioned again, i was waiting for an answer. I feel you owe me an answer, i can't see myself sleeping until i know.
As always great video, with only two unanswered questions, why was the cylinder full of oil water, and WHY did that piston rock both ways on the wrist pin.
the piston wear would have been from all the unburned fuel washing the cylinder down and probably affect the wrist pin I would think? I was wondering about the coolant/oil mix in the other bank as well.
I have the same engine and year F-150. I have 57,000 on it and run full synthetic , changing it every 5000 miles. I send in samples to Blackstone and the test results have been great. After two Ram 5.7 engines and Chevy 5.3, I still have reservations on small turbo engines. Considering what's available in new 1500 trucks with ice engines, I don't think any would consider to be a lot more dependable than the 2.7EB.
48:25 I love watching your teardown videos.
Would love to see a tear down of the 2.7 liter GM Turbo 4 cylinder in the 2019+ full size pickups.
Looking on Pro Demand it calls for 17.5 hours to replace the oil pump drive belt. No real info on it other them replace the timing set while there.
I think in a front drive application it would be engine out
I so look forward to a Saturday Night Teardown. Looking forward to more CARNAGE!
My dear brother told me I ought to get one of these high-output engines - was not impressed when I told him "no way". I learned the lesson about reliability of highly stressed engines a long while back and bloody well did not buy one.
The oil in the cylinder could have been a mechanic pouring a little in the plug hole for a compression test, testing if it's rings causing the low compression or something in the head...as we saw the burn't valve.
Awesome vid Eric cheers mate!
Eric O. (South Main Auto channel) just showed the new borescope he bought that can swivel around once it's down in the cylinder so you can check out the valves without pulling anything other than the plugs. Used it to condemn a GM 2.0 turbo 4 in a Caddy.
Looks like a squirrel has been chewing on that exhaust valve
In the mid to late 90s exhaust valve metal changed and they wear forever. When something does happen they looked like they were cut with a torch. Non-turbo engines will do the same. The first one I saw in 95 or 96 was by a tech I worked with that walked over to me and handed me a valve and said, "what do you think of this?". I said, " you took a cutting torch to it".
That squirrel had some kind of really good teeth!
Belt driven oil pumps remind me of "sealed for life" transmissions (no dipstick and no way to check the condition) , of course they never specifically state what that lifespan is exactly so it basically boils down to it will last until it doesn't and then you're out 5-10k for a replacement engine or transmission.
Nice to see someone that doesn't just blindly follow the recommended OCI. Great to see the results of a reasonable OCI.
10k is too long for the dirtier fuel in the USA and lower grade synthetic oils.
UOA should drive OCI for the application. 3k, 5k, or 7.5k max. If you tow change it sooner, etc. A car isn't just an expensive toaster.
As to the question at the end, if I were the tech working on this as a customer vehicle, I would have recommended the engine too. We only get so much time to dig into a bad motor for diag. It’s no fun getting burned on a comeback for trying to save the engine.
The 2015-2017 2.7 did not have port injection, but it did use a chain for the oil pump. It was most definitely bean counters who made the decision to switch to a belt.
I haven't seen any 4.2 Trailblazer engines yet.
Which is good.....cuz my 2002 has 245 K on it
still runs like a top 🙂
Would love to see a Vortex 4200 teardown...just hope it isn't yours!
@@Trendyflute lol
you and I both 😏
My son has a 2005 Envoy XUV with the 4.2 Vortec. 200k and still going strong.
Our 4.2 has 327k on it.
That's because they get swapped into other Failblazers to keep those trucks on the road (until they fall apart, then the cycle starts again).
Don't forget the melted timing chain guide and Kevlar oil pump drive belt questionable remaining service lives... Another great video.
I love these motors! It's nice to see another teardown on one
2.7EB is incoming in the new Ranger (though maybe not until next year), so any info and look at the engine is welcome, even if it's well-known already! Thanks as always for the entertainment.
My 2.7EB ‘18 is at 165k. Have no fear, just change the oil with Ford oil.
I hate even watching someone else remove plastic valve covers. It's a surprise when they don't break.
Is it common to break them? I’ve never broken one. Actually the only valve cover I have broken was a cast aluminum one.
In addition to the wet spark plug, note the clean spark plug at 3:22. Either there was something funny with that cylinder (as it turned out to be), or they threw a set of junker plugs in before selling the engine.
Injector failure, or at least malfunction. Created a hot spot in the chamber, turbo keeps pumping in air, hot spot gets really lean from not enough fuel, boom-burnt valve. This is the cost of very complex, highly dependent, high performance, small displacement engines. Everything HAS to work perfectly ALL the time, or it fails catastrophically.
Side to side rocking is worn out wrist pin. It’s toast.
I have a 2.7 out of my 2018 with 118k sitting in my garage. Number 4 cylinder has zero compression. Got a replacement with 2300 miles for under 3k with turbos and they didn’t want my core. Eventually I’ll pull it apart.
You got lucky with that price.
@@Foxbody302 They've got two more at that price with similar miles
@@AnonyMous-jf4lc good to know, thanks.
i too feel cheated with no water pump, great teardown again sir
Thanks for my Saturday night entertainment Eric. I imagine with the amount of force you needed to pull those heads, that doing it in the truck must be "fun".
Why was the piston rocking side to side?! I dont need sleep, i need answers
Some of The 2.7s in the Broncos had a batch of bad valves at one point
yup
valve retainer clips = dropped valves
I know with the multiair engine, a local running the stock tune and 91 octane has burned a valve. I have raced my car its entire life but I’ve always run 94 octane fuel and for the last 4 years I’ve run water/methanol.
Additionally, I take extra precaution to tune the engine where the fuel enrichment comes in gradually rather than all at once like the stock tune. I also use more fuel during WOT, rather than targeting 14.7:1.
When the engine oil is hot, it will shoot across the room because of the orientation of the drain plug. Only happened to me the one time...
Honestly, the 2.7 ecoboost is one of the better engines Ford had built recently. Just do your maintenance people 😉
This guy did and it blew up. Garbage.
Indeed. Mine makes like 320awhp from just a tune(400+ at the crank) and has over 100k miles on it. 50k of those miles have been at the 400hp tune, running 12.9's and surprising GTIs, Hondas, SUVs, and Charger R/Ts when they get gapped by a grandma SUV(ford edge). I love these engines. They're so overengineered its ridiculous. Mine is Gen 1 so it has the chain on the oil pump, and every single thing I've ever had to do to it maintenance wise has been a pleasure. Ford built this engine to be maintained/worked on and you can tell.
@@basedemt6608 true. Personally I'm not sure what the big deal is over an oil pump belt. This is a low stress, short belt and it's doing nowhere as much as a timing belt. The belt will likely last as long as the engine itself, there are many 2nd gen 2.7 engines with over 200K. If you can get 250K+ out of this engine it really owes you nothing and if it needs rebuilt then do the oil pump belt as well. Easy as that.
Mine's at 190K and I know Coyote engines also switched to an oil pump belt a few years ago. Then again no one is talking about having that belt go out.
PS. Did you need to beef-up your transmission for the extra power? I thought the 6F55 used on the Edge was near its limit for torque (550Nm or around 405 ft-lbs?)
Replace the engine. In the chassis, it's not the easiest to work on. Coolant/oil mix could have been a failed EGR cooler. The oil pump drive belt is the most idiotic thing to come down the pike in a long, long time. Can't wait to see the number of blown up engines from failed belts.
I can't believe they put an EGR cooler on this engine. They don't use one on the 3.5 Ecoboost but they decide to put yet another potential failure point on this engine.
Over halfway in and man I'm not seeing anything that would put it in your shop yet.
Oh no we got a loose and clean center piston. That was definitely making some noise.
And it's got a smoked valve.
I always freak out when you start turning the engine over when the timing chains are off. Once you took one head off the other still had it's valves above the pistons and you were moving them with the hammer handle.
One of the plugs was really clean as well
Hey dude! Scotty Kilmer mentioned you! He appreciates your work! So do I!
What video?!?!
I'd be embarrassed. Kilmer is an idiot.
Err, is that good?!
An immersed rubber belt to drive the oil pump, jesus crust.
Someone at Ford needs to get fired for that idea
I know right? Makes about as much sense as squatters rights.
I swear, Ford can take a solid engine and destroy it…5.4 2v to 3v, 2.7 EB, 5.0 coyote 3rd Gen. unreal
Poor design
Bloody new Duramax 3.0 diesels have one of those.
On the rear of the engine.
With an inspection mandate of 150K miles.
Which requires removal of transmission.
There is a more important reason why the piston rods are offset. It allows for better geometry in the position of the crank shaft and rod during the compression stroke.
The little bit of sludge you found, looks like it came from the cam journals. With the crank and rod bearings looking so good, the cam journals might be the culprit.
Here in the EU we have had A LOT of issues with internal timing belt (with oil), mainly Peugeot engines (they are now coming back to chains for this very reason). There's no real solution as the problem isn't the oil itself, but instead the blow-by gasoline that passes through the piston rings and goes into the oil itself. It's THAT thing that destroys the belts. And the real issue isn't the belt in itself, but the rubber that detaches from it and blocks the oil pickup, effectively granading your engines.
The good news is the Ford belt isn't made from rubber. I haven't heard of any failing yet.
I thought about debris coming off that belt too when he was showing it starting to crack apart.
@@DF-et4gs The belt is actually manufactured with those cracks. If you notice they're evenly spaced apart. Because the belt is made from Kevlar it helps make it more flexible and allows oil to be absorbed in to the belt. There's a lot of high mileage (300k plus) 2.7 liters out there that haven't had a failure yet. It's probably Ford's most trouble free motor.
When the belt crack on the outside looks , it's the gás in the oil. But when the belt falls apart it's because os the use of wrong oil....