I found this to work best as a penultimate stage to a full contactless wash (W5 APC, W4 Citrus Foam, 2bucket G-Wash etc) prior to topping off the vehicle with a hydrophobic coat. On a ceramic coated car this stuff makes the mitt just glide across the surface. It also makes for a solid foundation if a quick tidy up is required later on, using something like Gtechniq Easy-Coat. 👍🏻
I will say Gtechniq makes phenomenal coatings. I've applied and used a handful of different coatings and Gtechniq Ultra has been the best performing coating I've ever used or seen. Highly recommend. You can't apply Ultra without being certified but there is legit difference between it and consumer grade products.
Yea I have seen ultra and it definitely looks great. Coatings that need certs though get a big thumbs down from me because most of the cost associated with them is for the marketing and warranty. I understand why they do it though, but it's just not something that has ever interested me. There are coatings out there that are not marketing as pro installers only that work just as well. There are also pro only coatings that don't work that great. It's a big mess.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa I've got ultra on both our cars and the shop who did the work said that the certification also is how they can actually warranty the coating. I talked to them about the actual warranty itself and they said that ignoring the fine print, as long as I'm doing a proper decontamination/maintenance wash once a year and drive over to let them see the car and check the water sheeting (or just take the car to them once a year to let them do it), if there is any degrading of the hyrdrophonics of the coating anywhere on the car within that 9 year warranty, they will clay, machine polish, strip and re-apply the CSU ceramic on the panel at no charge. Since I'm friends with them and they know that pretty much every 4~6 weeks the cars I'm doing a full maintenance wash, they just said bring the car back if I ever see a panel not sheeting properly.
@FastRedPonyCar and that once a year thing is it. They will re apply exo every year. The coating on its own is not 9 years but the maintenance process keeps it going for 9 years.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa The Exo is recommended for the average owner but not required for the warranty to stand. My shop does offer a slight discount for an annual decontamination wash and Exo application but they said that it's completely optional. All I am required to do is come see them once a year where they spray the car after either I or they do a decontamination wash and inspect the sheeting. That said, I DO plan to have them do an EXO application in 2 years (per their strong recommendation) as the new Exo V5 they applied over the CSU they said lasts 2 years and because it's a single coat application, they charge less. But yeah, as for the actual warranty of CSU, according to them, it is only an inspection every 12 months that's needed but I would assume anyone shelling out the cash for a CSU coating is also going to be willing to pay $100~$175 a year or every two years for that extra protection.
i love hydro2 foam bought two 500mls i put 5 cap fulls in my foam cannon filled half way love it and really does last 3 month's on my daly and for $13 for a 500 mls cant beat it
My washing method 1. Snow foam and rinse. 2. Two bucket wash with GWash Ceramic. 3. Rise with lower power, this will save blasting off all the "goodness". 4. Drag dry with microfibre towel. I have never found it necessary to use the product neat. That jet washer is sooo powerful and yet, the product still works to some extent.
Drying with towels is old news for me. Once I got an Ego blower, it was lights out for my towels. I tried to get by with a cheap Toro corded blower but the Ego is SIGNIFICANTLY more powerful and vs towels it's so much faster and blasts water out of all the trim crevices and between panels and out of the wheels so there's none of that left over dribbling down after you've finished drying it and have taken it for the first drive after the wash. The only place towels still touch water are on the inside of the doors and under the hood.
Looks pretty good for a wash & coat. I am using CMX Ceramic wash & coat and it does a good job for a wash protection on top of a ceramic spray wax when drying.
In my testing the green armour all ceramic wash n wax works well and leaves behind tight beading and noticeable gloss. So does the turtle wax ceramic wash. Low/decent suds with both, but I feel the lubrication is there.
Unfortunately Americans have been subjected to marketing around foaming shampoos. In the UK, foam is not remotely important. We only care about the lubricity of the shampoo and its ability to hold a barrier from dirt particles to the panel and stops or reduces swirls or marring. Foam is purely aesthetic, foam has absolutely no purpose whatsoever. It serves no purpose. You guys need to retrain your thoughts about how your are being subjected to marketing claims and perceptions to buy stuff. I only care about how a product reduces swirls and cares for the surface of my paintwork.
I'm not sure how closely you paid attention to my words, but I was not concerned about the lack of foam. I was curious to see if there was any. Rinseless wash which has 0 foam of any kind is very popular in the US. In fact rinsless washing was created and popularized by American detailing companies. Foam has a benefit in pre washing for it's dwell time, however.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa I paid enough attention, you did hit on the foam subject. I'm generalising about car foam shampoos in general and how the US market gets their consumers to 'buy in' on making foam is a good thing. For instance, It seems Adam's brand cashes in on marketing surrounding foam and suds the most, they seem to get their audience to buy into maximum foam, when foam has absolutely no benefits other then aesthetics. Lubricity and water is the carrier for dirty to fall away from the painted surface and stopping dirty particles from causing marring and swirls. Foam slides over the top of dirt as air is lighter then dirty deposits and water. It just raises up on the surface of the water and drips off leaving dirt behind. Surfactants, acidity/ alkaline levels and lubricating properties break up the deposits and the lubricity gets under the dirt to keep a barrier between the paint and shifts it off the paint. It just really grinds my axe when American detailing channels here on TH-cam talk about foam like its a good thing and when the presenter starts to describe about the foam, they never seem to give an explanation why its a good thing. Different markets and brands around the world market different ideals and benefits in their products. The UK market isn't sucked into 'not so' clever marketing surrounding foam. Bilt Hamber auto wash shampoo for instance is a low foam high lubricity shampoo and works exceedingly well. The detailing scene here is very much on scientific approach to how products have minimal impact on paint damage and focus on what actually preserves expensive painted surfaces. Foam just doesn't wash here, excuse the pun. Maybe try some products to test on your channel that are looking for the most lubricating shampoos? I'd be very interested to see a video on that subject matter as I feel that's very important when I'm choosing a car was shampoo more then anything as I don't want to carrying out paint corrections frequently.
An d yes, a rinseless wash is very good. P&S Absolute is so good at keeping dirt particles up and off the paint leaving a slick finish afterwards. I've tried the other two market leading rinseless washes but much prefer how P&S Absolute feels. It works well and always add some into my normal car shampoo when my car is too dirty to use a rinseless wash. Why not double up with a dash of rinseless into your bucket wash shampoo for extra peace of mind. It works very well for me
@@79blustone Not a bad idea and interesting differences. I think the US market has a much larger consumer base for people washing at home, where UK it seems more focused on valeting which makes sense as a professional is going to be more knowledgeable than a consumer. Carpro Reset is still my gold standard for ph neutral car shampoos. 3D Super Soap is my second favorite. Many talk about Adam's Mega Foam but many also mention it's lubrication is not so great. Adam's focuses more on marketing than R&D though. They are owned by Recochem who own B&B Blending which is the largest detailing chemical manufacturer in the US. Majority of smaller brands are using their products and marketing so not surprising that people love their foam. I know that Apex Detail has reviewed a lot of shampoos and grades them based on lubrication and cleaning ability.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa I think Carpro reset is a very good choice. Especially if you want a naked shampoo that deep cleans without any waxes or Si02. I'm not a fan of Adam's. B&B blending are a good chemist and I guess Adam's has their fan base and subject their marketing to their customers, not for me though. I'm a huge fan of Bilt Hamber. It's a bit of a go to brand here. It's been tested and reviewed very well. They are a chemical company and have long history of chemical engineering. All their products need mixing with water or deionised water. They don't sell any RTU products off the shelf. So value for money along with a good description on how to mix and use. I've recently fallen in love with P&S brand, but they need to up their game with better trigger sprayers as they dribble and spray unevenly. I swap them out for Carpro or Bilt Hamber sprayer triggers.
How does the Ceramic GWash compare to Griot's Ceramic Wash & Coat? I have the Griot's Ceramic Wash & Coat and it does a half way decent job of adding some hydrophobics or at least adding to what I already have on the vehicles.
G wash has better performance when you use as directed via adding some onto the mitt, downside is you cannot foam it on like you can with griots. Better dilution ratios too, only need 1 ounce to 3 gallons of water.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa Thanks for the update. Yeah, that dilution ratio is way better for sure so it's far more concentrated so it actually could be a decent value for someone wanting to use that type of wash product on their vehicle. I have the wash and coat products but the only one I use frequently is the spray and rinse type like CarPro Hydro on my wheels, grille, and sometimes on my undercarriage due to the fact I use Griot's Ceramic Speed Shine as my drying aide and that is a pretty good topper so I don't really need the wash and coat products. If I do a quick wash and I want to save a step and get it done quickly I will use the Griot's Ceramic Wash & Coat.
I found this to work best as a penultimate stage to a full contactless wash (W5 APC, W4 Citrus Foam, 2bucket G-Wash etc) prior to topping off the vehicle with a hydrophobic coat. On a ceramic coated car this stuff makes the mitt just glide across the surface. It also makes for a solid foundation if a quick tidy up is required later on, using something like Gtechniq Easy-Coat. 👍🏻
I will say Gtechniq makes phenomenal coatings. I've applied and used a handful of different coatings and Gtechniq Ultra has been the best performing coating I've ever used or seen. Highly recommend. You can't apply Ultra without being certified but there is legit difference between it and consumer grade products.
Yea I have seen ultra and it definitely looks great. Coatings that need certs though get a big thumbs down from me because most of the cost associated with them is for the marketing and warranty. I understand why they do it though, but it's just not something that has ever interested me. There are coatings out there that are not marketing as pro installers only that work just as well. There are also pro only coatings that don't work that great. It's a big mess.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa I've got ultra on both our cars and the shop who did the work said that the certification also is how they can actually warranty the coating. I talked to them about the actual warranty itself and they said that ignoring the fine print, as long as I'm doing a proper decontamination/maintenance wash once a year and drive over to let them see the car and check the water sheeting (or just take the car to them once a year to let them do it), if there is any degrading of the hyrdrophonics of the coating anywhere on the car within that 9 year warranty, they will clay, machine polish, strip and re-apply the CSU ceramic on the panel at no charge.
Since I'm friends with them and they know that pretty much every 4~6 weeks the cars I'm doing a full maintenance wash, they just said bring the car back if I ever see a panel not sheeting properly.
@FastRedPonyCar and that once a year thing is it. They will re apply exo every year. The coating on its own is not 9 years but the maintenance process keeps it going for 9 years.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa The Exo is recommended for the average owner but not required for the warranty to stand. My shop does offer a slight discount for an annual decontamination wash and Exo application but they said that it's completely optional. All I am required to do is come see them once a year where they spray the car after either I or they do a decontamination wash and inspect the sheeting.
That said, I DO plan to have them do an EXO application in 2 years (per their strong recommendation) as the new Exo V5 they applied over the CSU they said lasts 2 years and because it's a single coat application, they charge less.
But yeah, as for the actual warranty of CSU, according to them, it is only an inspection every 12 months that's needed but I would assume anyone shelling out the cash for a CSU coating is also going to be willing to pay $100~$175 a year or every two years for that extra protection.
i love hydro2 foam bought two 500mls i put 5 cap fulls in my foam cannon filled half way love it and really does last 3 month's on my daly and for $13 for a 500 mls cant beat it
its good stuff
My washing method 1. Snow foam and rinse. 2. Two bucket wash with GWash Ceramic. 3. Rise with lower power, this will save blasting off all the "goodness". 4. Drag dry with microfibre towel. I have never found it necessary to use the product neat. That jet washer is sooo powerful and yet, the product still works to some extent.
Drying with towels is old news for me. Once I got an Ego blower, it was lights out for my towels.
I tried to get by with a cheap Toro corded blower but the Ego is SIGNIFICANTLY more powerful and vs towels it's so much faster and blasts water out of all the trim crevices and between panels and out of the wheels so there's none of that left over dribbling down after you've finished drying it and have taken it for the first drive after the wash.
The only place towels still touch water are on the inside of the doors and under the hood.
It definitely worked better when applied directly to the wash mitt.
Looks pretty good for a wash & coat. I am using CMX Ceramic wash & coat and it does a good job for a wash protection on top of a ceramic spray wax when drying.
Yea that one is alright
FINALLY a ceramic wash that does SOMETHING?! Lol. Thanks for the video!
You're welcome!!
In my testing the green armour all ceramic wash n wax works well and leaves behind tight beading and noticeable gloss. So does the turtle wax ceramic wash. Low/decent suds with both, but I feel the lubrication is there.
Armor All ceramic shampoo is a great product
Unfortunately Americans have been subjected to marketing around foaming shampoos. In the UK, foam is not remotely important. We only care about the lubricity of the shampoo and its ability to hold a barrier from dirt particles to the panel and stops or reduces swirls or marring. Foam is purely aesthetic, foam has absolutely no purpose whatsoever. It serves no purpose. You guys need to retrain your thoughts about how your are being subjected to marketing claims and perceptions to buy stuff. I only care about how a product reduces swirls and cares for the surface of my paintwork.
I'm not sure how closely you paid attention to my words, but I was not concerned about the lack of foam. I was curious to see if there was any. Rinseless wash which has 0 foam of any kind is very popular in the US. In fact rinsless washing was created and popularized by American detailing companies. Foam has a benefit in pre washing for it's dwell time, however.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa I paid enough attention, you did hit on the foam subject.
I'm generalising about car foam shampoos in general and how the US market gets their consumers to 'buy in' on making foam is a good thing. For instance, It seems Adam's brand cashes in on marketing surrounding foam and suds the most, they seem to get their audience to buy into maximum foam, when foam has absolutely no benefits other then aesthetics.
Lubricity and water is the carrier for dirty to fall away from the painted surface and stopping dirty particles from causing marring and swirls. Foam slides over the top of dirt as air is lighter then dirty deposits and water. It just raises up on the surface of the water and drips off leaving dirt behind. Surfactants, acidity/ alkaline levels and lubricating properties break up the deposits and the lubricity gets under the dirt to keep a barrier between the paint and shifts it off the paint.
It just really grinds my axe when American detailing channels here on TH-cam talk about foam like its a good thing and when the presenter starts to describe about the foam, they never seem to give an explanation why its a good thing.
Different markets and brands around the world market different ideals and benefits in their products.
The UK market isn't sucked into 'not so' clever marketing surrounding foam.
Bilt Hamber auto wash shampoo for instance is a low foam high lubricity shampoo and works exceedingly well.
The detailing scene here is very much on scientific approach to how products have minimal impact on paint damage and focus on what actually preserves expensive painted surfaces. Foam just doesn't wash here, excuse the pun.
Maybe try some products to test on your channel that are looking for the most lubricating shampoos? I'd be very interested to see a video on that subject matter as I feel that's very important when I'm choosing a car was shampoo more then anything as I don't want to carrying out paint corrections frequently.
An d yes, a rinseless wash is very good. P&S Absolute is so good at keeping dirt particles up and off the paint leaving a slick finish afterwards. I've tried the other two market leading rinseless washes but much prefer how P&S Absolute feels. It works well and always add some into my normal car shampoo when my car is too dirty to use a rinseless wash. Why not double up with a dash of rinseless into your bucket wash shampoo for extra peace of mind. It works very well for me
@@79blustone Not a bad idea and interesting differences. I think the US market has a much larger consumer base for people washing at home, where UK it seems more focused on valeting which makes sense as a professional is going to be more knowledgeable than a consumer. Carpro Reset is still my gold standard for ph neutral car shampoos. 3D Super Soap is my second favorite. Many talk about Adam's Mega Foam but many also mention it's lubrication is not so great. Adam's focuses more on marketing than R&D though. They are owned by Recochem who own B&B Blending which is the largest detailing chemical manufacturer in the US. Majority of smaller brands are using their products and marketing so not surprising that people love their foam. I know that Apex Detail has reviewed a lot of shampoos and grades them based on lubrication and cleaning ability.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa I think Carpro reset is a very good choice. Especially if you want a naked shampoo that deep cleans without any waxes or Si02. I'm not a fan of Adam's. B&B blending are a good chemist and I guess Adam's has their fan base and subject their marketing to their customers, not for me though. I'm a huge fan of Bilt Hamber. It's a bit of a go to brand here. It's been tested and reviewed very well. They are a chemical company and have long history of chemical engineering. All their products need mixing with water or deionised water. They don't sell any RTU products off the shelf. So value for money along with a good description on how to mix and use. I've recently fallen in love with P&S brand, but they need to up their game with better trigger sprayers as they dribble and spray unevenly. I swap them out for Carpro or Bilt Hamber sprayer triggers.
Could you foam the car with Carpro Reset and put some of this in your bucket with the wash mitt to use?
It might work
you should not use high pressure after you applied GWash, just rinse it with a garden hoze.
News to me. They use high pressure in their promo video 🤷🏾
I don't remember, but you tried Griots garage wash & coat? Curios about your thoughts
Yes I did, ahve a video on it. It was very good performance wise, decent enough foam to use in a cannon.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa gotcha, later i will watch it again
i saw you use Chem x products by any chance have you tried their D-lime 90
I have not. I use carpro tar x for a tar remover personally.
How does the Ceramic GWash compare to Griot's Ceramic Wash & Coat? I have the Griot's Ceramic Wash & Coat and it does a half way decent job of adding some hydrophobics or at least adding to what I already have on the vehicles.
G wash has better performance when you use as directed via adding some onto the mitt, downside is you cannot foam it on like you can with griots. Better dilution ratios too, only need 1 ounce to 3 gallons of water.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa Thanks for the update. Yeah, that dilution ratio is way better for sure so it's far more concentrated so it actually could be a decent value for someone wanting to use that type of wash product on their vehicle. I have the wash and coat products but the only one I use frequently is the spray and rinse type like CarPro Hydro on my wheels, grille, and sometimes on my undercarriage due to the fact I use Griot's Ceramic Speed Shine as my drying aide and that is a pretty good topper so I don't really need the wash and coat products. If I do a quick wash and I want to save a step and get it done quickly I will use the Griot's Ceramic Wash & Coat.
do you have hypermobility?
@@Scoobydcs strong possibility, I was in the military
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