Honestly... I know custom fabrication is super cool man, creating something and designing it your way definitely gives it character.. but the big picture is really missing from this.. you gotta nail this one right once and for all man.. It's heading in the old direction and just adding more weight from the steel. These fender skirts and radiator supports are still so cheap online and would save you a TON of time from wingin it like this. They're designed for the right adjustments (almost) and still look really great. You could move on from how to figure out the whole front core support quicker and just focus 100% on setting up the front suspension properly and successfully adjusting the engine and transmission so they fire up right. Something is gonna come back the further you go mid engine install and would hate to see ya have to back track on redoing it all over again. Love the channel man! Hope the stang comes out sick!
Disagree completely. Sure there are aftermarket products he can buy and bolt on, but he wants to add some personal customization to the engine bay, and this is the look HE wants. And that small amount of weight he is adding will make little difference to the 600 hp motor this tiny car is going to have. And I am sure his difficulty with the prior Mustang builds is always on his mind, so I am confident that he will get the front suspension done right. Give him a chance.
@@jacklittle1624 I’m with you on this let him learn fabrication and make this build his his own style. But the Steve was right about is the weight. The gauge of the metal is way too thick. He needs to use metal at least one gauge thinner, I’d probably go two gauges thinner.
Absolutely agree! And I still can't understand what he is going to do here..for front struts or.shocks if there is.no.strut tower. Build.a.tower an weld it in? More weight/room
I know you think you are being clever by ❤the comments saying you are doing it wrong, and it is ending up like the last one. Then leaving snarky replies to them but that doesn't seem like a constructive way to grow your channel, which is the goal, right. Listen to them, there is truth in numbers. Good luck, young man.
Get a bead roller or take them out to have some rolls added in. Those panels are going to flex and resonate. It will sound so bad if you don't add them.
Should have waited for the suspension and engine mounts brake master and steering before the aprons . Need all your mechanical stuff sorted and you see exactly where your aprons will fit. Less work and less waste in the long run.
Haha, don't you guys know how he works? He has a tendency to leap before looking. If you haven't watch the first mustang he tried to build from scratch, the frame was huge and heavy before he realized it wasn't going to work. He has a good vision in his head, he just doesn't see the in between and the smalls that need to go into the engine bay. Mock up of the engine and the front suspension and all it's components will be needed to make the engine compartment fit all the components in and still look clean....measure twice cut once is a must to save time and money while still getting that clean and custom look....
This aprons are not ready to take suspension or engine with gearbox so stop clickbaiting us and actually do something please, it's not even welded yet, come on
Make sure you put decent mount pads on the fire wall for that tubing so if you hit something they dont push through the firewall and into the passenger compartment. Go slow and think of everything you can before you fully weld anything. Might want to figure where your cage is coming through to tie it all together.
Tip Plasma cutter shallow curve guide Get a strip of alloy or steel flat bar that is longer that the curve you need to cut by at least a hands breadth, fold the ends over at right angles and attach to a another identical strip so that there is a gap between them. Wedge varying sizes of wood spacers between them to force them into the desired curve. Clamp down on the job to use as a torch guide.
On the square tube fender mounts - locate where the centers of the holes go. Drill a hole through the fender mount and install round tubes through the square tube holes to strengthen the holes. Then tack on the mounting nuts on the bottom side. This will securely mount the fenders and prevent the fender mounting hardware from collapsing from the forces acting during operation of the car and loosening up from vibration.
i would love to just see you put one of these mustangs back together that you've destroyed. I'd love to see one of them actually go down the road again
It would be hard to fold that curve towards the front of the car. The other option would be to cut a strip of steel and weld it to the new aprons, you can compensate for those curves better.
@Yippee Skippy C'mon man that is way too easy, not his style. Just keep adding steel to make it work. That square tubing might not be strong enough to hold the fenders, he might want to use a 3" I beam. LOL Over complicates everything.
@@Vtuned you’ve got dozens, if not hundreds of people advising you to reference all of the mechanical (suspension, engine, brakes, hinges) before barreling ahead with this, but you seem to ignore it all in the pursuit of fabrication glory. Also, completely ignoring the resonance implicit in flat sheet metal panels like this. Lastly, the “Mr. Expert” attitude is further proof that when people with more experience offer you advice, 90+% of the time, you ignore it and forge ahead with your easily avoidable mistakes. Think. Plan. Execute. You consistently get those in the wrong order and have a graveyard of carcasses in your wake to prove it.
@@TX_Blake actually the suspension is already accounted for and so is the hood hinges not a big deal like thats simple stuff most people wanna act like experts just to talk
@@Vtuned sounds like you have it all figured out then. And the booming resonance of big flat panels of sheet metal? Physics doesn’t effect your builds, eh? We’ll see, but in the real world “it’s easy” cockiness doesn’t work out. Ask your first auction coupe about that one. Oh wait…
@@TX_Blake oh wait that car was literally cut in half and welded together according to you logic it rust and crappy welds is stronger then what I’m doing now lmao
You should beed roll the sheet metal where the steering pump is gonna be so u can put a piece of sheet metal above it that fits snug into the bead rolls to hide it, that way the left apron looks 100% flat like the right apron.
People are watching this and they are really interested giving their input here and there. I'm no expert so I have no technical advice to give but it's gotta be cool for you that so many are interested in this build just keep forging ahead and working hard. It is really awesome to see the progress!
So much better Ben, when you can work in peace and quiet without interruptions and distractions. Great work my friend, although I guess I am disappointed that you did not bend the bars across your thigh 😂😂 Cheers, Bob
I'm surprised you didn't put a fold inside those inner panels where they join the chassis rail and underside of the fenders which would have offered more strength where it was attached either by spot weld or Holes with welds along the both joins.
I wouldn’t run that square tube like that in the fenders, flare it by firewall to face down or away from compartment, if you hit something that thing is coming in.
It literally fits perfect, all I have to do is cut a chunk out of the frame.. It's perfect well accept for the gap and the crease.. literally and perfect I don't think them words mean what you think they mean.. Good job though keep the build going.
I use chrome sockets on a Milwaukee Impact daily, never had a problem. They are thinner and fit better in tight spots. Although not made for it they work fine. Tekton makes damn good tools at a great price.
When I first came here, this was all swamp. Everyone said I was daft to build a castle on a swamp, but I built it all the same, just to show them. It sank into the swamp. So I built a second one. That sank into the swamp. So I built a third. That burned down, fell over, then sank into the swamp. But the fourth one stayed up. And that's what you're going to get, Lad, the strongest castle in all of England.
Super stoked someone listened to the viewers. Tig is so much better than the mig welding. You will have better success with the tig welder in the end. Great job! Stay safe and be well!
Ford just put a thin metal clip on there to mount the fenders. The clip is thinner metal than your tube walls. My recommendation is to install rivenuts as your mounting points.
Put them into the tubes you just bent,and the structure's strength is multiplied.Fenders,liners,and tubes.Once you have stuff welded behind the firewall to the rollcage people will shut up about getting 'speared'.I can see where you're going.Just wish you'd done the suspension first.You'll get it.Good luck.
Great content man! I have a few suggestions for you though. I love the fact that you are teaching yourself to fabricate. That being said, in order to not go backwards in the future, you should figure out things like the motor, tranny and suspension first. Then you should work around that. But those are just my thoughts and you should build your car the way you want, it is your car after all. Keep learning and producing more content. Keep up the great work
I feel for you vTuned. Even I am getting cringed out by the comments and I know how much they effect you. Are you messing with us just to get back at the haters or are you really going to build the car this way? It all seems like guess work coupled with mind changing, adaptation and improvisation. It was such a great car too. Please give us something promising.
If the comments really effected him, wouldn’t he change the way he works? This ready-fire-aim style keeps burning him no matter how much we try to steer him in the right direction.
@@TX_Blake I dont think the comments effect him all that much...he can't even seem to form together basic sentences that make sense. "I think its better to TIG weld, because with this you can fuse metal together." As opposed to a MIG welder that doesnt weld metal together?
@@floodx4947 I agree. He acts as if he knows everything he is doing is gospel and everyone that tries to steer him into a direction that makes sense is being negative. If he would take some time to research, plan it out and then execute it a bit better, maybe his "builds" wouldnt be like an ADHD child running around with tools and decent starting cars.
The fact that you think the Hood hinges mount to the firewall, shows that you should just stop this build and let someone competent finish it the right way. I am not trying to be harsh, but you seem to be in way over your head and have no plan or idea of what you are trying to do.
Steel Rivnuts for the fender bolts? If this is an option you will need to compensate for the fraction OD an inch they stick up from the bar. The other option is the weld nuts on the bottom of the tubes, this way the fenders sit flush on the tubing. It looks a lot cleaner under the hood than factory!
You got to do a custom paint job on this thing, modern suspension, wilwood brakes, sound deadening, and undercoating, you should also do a tesla build one day
I left a comment in your last video that the drivers side apron you removed has the VIN number stamped on it. You can see the notch cut out on the mounting lip of the drivers side fender where it was located. The VIN was also on the drivers side door tag. The VIN was located on the dash starting in 1968.
Your back wall is bare. Image having banners up there of the companies who hooked you up with things for your shop. A big Milwaukee banner would look great hanging up.
Don't forget to make the dents in the brackets that hold the fenders, same as you did before in Samcrac's Lamborgini. To make the brackets deform and absorb energy in case of crash.
Your channel has gotten so much better than ever in the past few months. Props to YOU for upping the production, and listening to your fans. Keep it coming.. thanks
You should think about where you want to mount your radiator over flow container so it's not to far from the radiator and it drains in a good location to prevent over spray etc.
Check Out Vtuned’s Merch - vtuned.com
did you got this s2000 from goonzquad?
Honestly... I know custom fabrication is super cool man, creating something and designing it your way definitely gives it character.. but the big picture is really missing from this.. you gotta nail this one right once and for all man.. It's heading in the old direction and just adding more weight from the steel. These fender skirts and radiator supports are still so cheap online and would save you a TON of time from wingin it like this. They're designed for the right adjustments (almost) and still look really great. You could move on from how to figure out the whole front core support quicker and just focus 100% on setting up the front suspension properly and successfully adjusting the engine and transmission so they fire up right. Something is gonna come back the further you go mid engine install and would hate to see ya have to back track on redoing it all over again. Love the channel man! Hope the stang comes out sick!
When the engine is in, it is going to look like it is in a shipping crate. Just fill it up with packing peanuts.
Disagree completely. Sure there are aftermarket products he can buy and bolt on, but he wants to add some personal customization to the engine bay, and this is the look HE wants. And that small amount of weight he is adding will make little difference to the 600 hp motor this tiny car is going to have. And I am sure his difficulty with the prior Mustang builds is always on his mind, so I am confident that he will get the front suspension done right. Give him a chance.
@@jacklittle1624 I’m with you on this let him learn fabrication and make this build his his own style. But the Steve was right about is the weight. The gauge of the metal is way too thick. He needs to use metal at least one gauge thinner, I’d probably go two gauges thinner.
@Larry the able guy
How will that be if the tubing is under the fenders as support? 🤔
Absolutely agree! And I still can't understand what he is going to do here..for front struts or.shocks if there is.no.strut tower. Build.a.tower an weld it in? More weight/room
I know you think you are being clever by ❤the comments saying you are doing it wrong, and it is ending up like the last one. Then leaving snarky replies to them but that doesn't seem like a constructive way to grow your channel, which is the goal, right. Listen to them, there is truth in numbers. Good luck, young man.
Get a bead roller or take them out to have some rolls added in. Those panels are going to flex and resonate. It will sound so bad if you don't add them.
USA USA today #hitydesign
YUP WHAT HE SAID
And some gloves dear god!
Why would he do something logical like that when he can just reinforce it with 500 lbs of 4x2 steel tubing.....
@@speedsterwinston rectangle tube?
aprons shout be after motor and suspension I think your going down the same road you did with the other mustang !!!
Yes sir
Can't wait for the redo video when you need to put in the steering and suspension. Great job.
th-cam.com/video/UYLly8J10GQ/w-d-xo.html
Should have waited for the suspension and engine mounts brake master and steering before the aprons .
Need all your mechanical stuff sorted and you see exactly where your aprons will fit. Less work and less waste in the long run.
That's what I've been thinking. Going to be cutting those aprons up all over the places when the shock support needs the right covers.
USA USA today #hity design
Haha, don't you guys know how he works? He has a tendency to leap before looking. If you haven't watch the first mustang he tried to build from scratch, the frame was huge and heavy before he realized it wasn't going to work. He has a good vision in his head, he just doesn't see the in between and the smalls that need to go into the engine bay.
Mock up of the engine and the front suspension and all it's components will be needed to make the engine compartment fit all the components in and still look clean....measure twice cut once is a must to save time and money while still getting that clean and custom look....
Don't worry he will just hack it up and re do it again.
This aprons are not ready to take suspension or engine with gearbox so stop clickbaiting us and actually do something please, it's not even welded yet, come on
Make sure you put decent mount pads on the fire wall for that tubing so if you hit something they dont push through the firewall and into the passenger compartment. Go slow and think of everything you can before you fully weld anything. Might want to figure where your cage is coming through to tie it all together.
Tip
Plasma cutter shallow curve guide
Get a strip of alloy or steel flat bar that is longer that the curve you need to cut by at least a hands breadth, fold the ends over at right angles and attach to a another identical strip so that there is a gap between them. Wedge varying sizes of wood spacers between them to force them into the desired curve. Clamp down on the job to use as a torch guide.
On the square tube fender mounts - locate where the centers of the holes go. Drill a hole through the fender mount and install round tubes through the square tube holes to strengthen the holes. Then tack on the mounting nuts on the bottom side. This will securely mount the fenders and prevent the fender mounting hardware from collapsing from the forces acting during operation of the car and loosening up from vibration.
16:28 it's called a lever, the farther your are from the bend, the easier it will be
i would love to just see you put one of these mustangs back together that you've destroyed. I'd love to see one of them actually go down the road again
Question? Why didn't you fold the top aprons 90 degrees and slide them under the fender and bolt them together?
Makes too much sense.
It would be hard to fold that curve towards the front of the car. The other option would be to cut a strip of steel and weld it to the new aprons, you can compensate for those curves better.
@Yippee Skippy C'mon man that is way too easy, not his style. Just keep adding steel to make it work. That square tubing might not be strong enough to hold the fenders, he might want to use a 3" I beam. LOL Over complicates everything.
th-cam.com/video/UYLly8J10GQu/w-d-xo.htmlsa
The slow motion train wreck continues. Keep ignoring the people that are trying to help. The hackery is entertaining.
What Hackery please explain mister expert car builder?
@@Vtuned you’ve got dozens, if not hundreds of people advising you to reference all of the mechanical (suspension, engine, brakes, hinges) before barreling ahead with this, but you seem to ignore it all in the pursuit of fabrication glory.
Also, completely ignoring the resonance implicit in flat sheet metal panels like this.
Lastly, the “Mr. Expert” attitude is further proof that when people with more experience offer you advice, 90+% of the time, you ignore it and forge ahead with your easily avoidable mistakes.
Think. Plan. Execute. You consistently get those in the wrong order and have a graveyard of carcasses in your wake to prove it.
@@TX_Blake actually the suspension is already accounted for and so is the hood hinges not a big deal like thats simple stuff most people wanna act like experts just to talk
@@Vtuned sounds like you have it all figured out then. And the booming resonance of big flat panels of sheet metal? Physics doesn’t effect your builds, eh? We’ll see, but in the real world “it’s easy” cockiness doesn’t work out. Ask your first auction coupe about that one. Oh wait…
@@TX_Blake oh wait that car was literally cut in half and welded together according to you logic it rust and crappy welds is stronger then what I’m doing now lmao
You should beed roll the sheet metal where the steering pump is gonna be so u can put a piece of sheet metal above it that fits snug into the bead rolls to hide it, that way the left apron looks 100% flat like the right apron.
Find an old refrigerator and remove magnetic strips out of the door seals. Work great for plasma cutting edge line.
Thanks for the tip.Never heard of that.
You should get your engine, suspension and turbos in place before you make your aprons. otherwise you will be redoing them to fit in other componants.
USA USA today #hitydesign
Tbh bro it seems like a redo with ur old mustang with the way your approaching this
starting to look just like the first mistake .... history repeats its self .
You need the engine in and suspension on then work around those with the inner fenders.
Yea his order of operations is out of whack. Engine, tranny and suspension should be in and mocked up before doing the aprons.
People are watching this and they are really interested giving their input here and there. I'm no expert so I have no technical advice to give but it's gotta be cool for you that so many are interested in this build just keep forging ahead and working hard. It is really awesome to see the progress!
Seems like plenty of parts and kits out there for classic cars, no need to reinvent the wheel.
If you just buy it and bolt it on you have the same crap as a million people and can never say I made that from nothing all by myself
Yep, built not bought. Carries a little weight.
Where is the fun in that...???🤷🏾♂️
So much better Ben, when you can work in peace and quiet without interruptions and distractions. Great work my friend, although I guess I am disappointed that you did not bend the bars across your thigh 😂😂
Cheers,
Bob
th-cam.com/video/UYLly8J10GQu/w-d-xo.htmlsa
Consider using rivnuts for the fenders, it will be a clean finished look. Cheers from New Zealand
Excuse me but where is the strut tower going to be?
I'm surprised you didn't put a fold inside those inner panels where they join the chassis rail and underside of the fenders which would have offered more strength where it was attached either by spot weld or Holes with welds along the both joins.
Oh no, Mustang dejavu all over again. You needed to put the mechanical in first before making aprons. Come on man, you know this
Coming along nicely! That plasma cutter was mighty close to your finger there😵💫
Add stripes on the middle in the memory of the mustang you cut in half
I wouldn’t run that square tube like that in the fenders, flare it by firewall to face down or away from compartment, if you hit something that thing is coming in.
He never listen.
You can always use Rivnuts on the fender supports.
Coming along nicely. Hope the suspension doesn't cause you grief when fitting
History repeating itself..
It literally fits perfect, all I have to do is cut a chunk out of the frame.. It's perfect well accept for the gap and the crease.. literally and perfect I don't think them words mean what you think they mean.. Good job though keep the build going.
I use chrome sockets on a Milwaukee Impact daily, never had a problem. They are thinner and fit better in tight spots. Although not made for it they work fine. Tekton makes damn good tools at a great price.
th-cam.com/video/UYLly8J10GQ/w-d-xo.html
When I first came here, this was all swamp. Everyone said I was daft to build a castle on a swamp, but I built it all the same, just to show them. It sank into the swamp. So I built a second one. That sank into the swamp. So I built a third. That burned down, fell over, then sank into the swamp. But the fourth one stayed up. And that's what you're going to get, Lad, the strongest castle in all of England.
Super stoked someone listened to the viewers. Tig is so much better than the mig welding. You will have better success with the tig welder in the end. Great job! Stay safe and be well!
Someone donate this man a bending machine. 🙌🤣
Have a look at Bad Obsession motorsport, those guys are amazing. Strong without weight
Will brake booster fit in there? You should mount pedals to firewall
Prototype version ONE...
Your design techniques are improving...
Your content never fails to impress...
you are easily impressed.
Depress not impress.
@@13christbane lol
Ford just put a thin metal clip on there to mount the fenders. The clip is thinner metal than your tube walls.
My recommendation is to install rivenuts as your mounting points.
Put them into the tubes you just bent,and the structure's strength is multiplied.Fenders,liners,and tubes.Once you have stuff welded behind the firewall to the rollcage people will shut up about getting 'speared'.I can see where you're going.Just wish you'd done the suspension first.You'll get it.Good luck.
Outstanding progress Vtune! I am looking forward to the day when you get the under the hood stuff sorted out!
Great video, well produced. Nice.
Those S2000 wheels actually looks like it would fit the mustang build style. 😆
No way
Negative ghost rider
Good luck turning the front wheels
I might be super baked but the camera work in this is on point 👌
Coming along very well can't wait to see the motor sitting on mounts in the engine bay
I love watching Vtune videos and he has great ideas. I just wonder about his methods of execution. I would invest in the right tools for the job.
Looks great. Doing a great job. 👍
Great content man! I have a few suggestions for you though. I love the fact that you are teaching yourself to fabricate. That being said, in order to not go backwards in the future, you should figure out things like the motor, tranny and suspension first. Then you should work around that. But those are just my thoughts and you should build your car the way you want, it is your car after all. Keep learning and producing more content. Keep up the great work
That welding slo mo action was 👌🏾
HEAVY, HEAVY, HEAVY...he's building another tank..
I feel for you vTuned. Even I am getting cringed out by the comments and I know how much they effect you.
Are you messing with us just to get back at the haters or are you really going to build the car this way?
It all seems like guess work coupled with mind changing, adaptation and improvisation.
It was such a great car too.
Please give us something promising.
If the comments really effected him, wouldn’t he change the way he works? This ready-fire-aim style keeps burning him no matter how much we try to steer him in the right direction.
@@TX_Blake I dont think the comments effect him all that much...he can't even seem to form together basic sentences that make sense. "I think its better to TIG weld, because with this you can fuse metal together." As opposed to a MIG welder that doesnt weld metal together?
He just doesn't know what he's doing, and he see's "help" as "hate".
@@floodx4947 I agree. He acts as if he knows everything he is doing is gospel and everyone that tries to steer him into a direction that makes sense is being negative. If he would take some time to research, plan it out and then execute it a bit better, maybe his "builds" wouldnt be like an ADHD child running around with tools and decent starting cars.
it seems to me he is a good frame man and good at replacing factory parts but I dont think that building custom cars is not his strong suit
Who needs plans? Just add more metal. Plans are for professionals.
I feel confident I can hit a like before I watch the video!
Is this man building a tank or what
The fact that you think the Hood hinges mount to the firewall, shows that you should just stop this build and let someone competent finish it the right way. I am not trying to be harsh, but you seem to be in way over your head and have no plan or idea of what you are trying to do.
Your car your build and it’s gonna be sweeeet. Keep up the great work 👊
daaaang son, that auto bender 3000 did work!
Love it not even wearing gloves when cutting out the heyal, fingers must get a bit toasty
Steel Rivnuts for the fender bolts? If this is an option you will need to compensate for the fraction OD an inch they stick up from the bar. The other option is the weld nuts on the bottom of the tubes, this way the fenders sit flush on the tubing. It looks a lot cleaner under the hood than factory!
I think you should just buy the support and the inner fenders.
Jeez the only thing chopped around more than this thing is goonzquad's dog!!!!
Thanks For The Great Video... Thanks.
You really haven't got any idea
You got to do a custom paint job on this thing, modern suspension, wilwood brakes, sound deadening, and undercoating, you should also do a tesla build one day
Tesla parts are hard to find
@@No0o You would have to buy a parts car
tesla have big trash, better keep only beauty good best old classiv V8 cars.
he needs to stay the fuck away from cars.
It is looking clean.
Love the new editing
Has Ben said how much he loves that table???
Keep going you're own way makes for better viewing 😉
I left a comment in your last video that the drivers side apron you removed has the VIN number stamped on it. You can see the notch cut out on the mounting lip of the drivers side fender where it was located. The VIN was also on the drivers side door tag. The VIN was located on the dash starting in 1968.
Love the Blues music!!
Looking great Ben!
Milwaukee needs to hook you up with a metal circle saw
Great video and I just love the camera work.
The "Auto-Bender" company makes a 4000 model as well...consisting of a backpack with 50lbs of bricks.
Your back wall is bare. Image having banners up there of the companies who hooked you up with things for your shop. A big Milwaukee banner would look great hanging up.
Awesome work v
Looks good bro
i like the smooth engine bay! looks great!
It would be sick once you paint all the metal! Such a sick build!
Don't forget to make the dents in the brackets that hold the fenders, same as you did before in Samcrac's Lamborgini. To make the brackets deform and absorb energy in case of crash.
you can use a rivenut for all your fender nuts install.. you will not be disappointed!
Another awesome video from you guys, thanks and keep them coming.
Your channel has gotten so much better than ever in the past few months. Props to YOU for upping the production, and listening to your fans. Keep it coming.. thanks
Dang son this is awesome
You can use pemnuts installed in the top of your side tubes to screw down the fenders too.
The amount of know how this guy has you can tell he has been doing this for a very long time and knows his stuff 🔥👏
I hope that's a joke. He is clueless.
Very Nice!!!
You could use a riv nut to bolt the fenders to the frame
Lookin really good
Tighten the self tapping screws too tight.Now every one has the metal dented in.Caused alot more body work to straightened all that out now.
th-cam.com/video/UYLly8J10GQ/w-d-xo.html
Put rivnuts in the tubes for fenders will be a lot cleaner
measure twice cut once or fly by the seat of your pants and hope it works
You should think about where you want to mount your radiator over flow container so it's not to far from the radiator and it drains in a good location to prevent over spray etc.
Rivnuts will hold the fender to your brace
Love the zztop vibe music
it's as bad as his fabrication skills
At least he's trying though
I dont want to be in the passenger seat when you crash into something with those steel box sections in the engine bay. Looks scary 😟
Doesn't matter, you get into a bad enough crash with one of these stock, you're done anyway