When I ran the BG cleaner at the dealer the BG guy showed us how it dissolves the sludge instead of it just flaking off so it doesn't cause any issues. The 1.8L VW engines sludged all the time from pcv issues and we ran this kit and it worked well. We did have to replace the pickup also but those were common to stop up on the 1.8L so idk if the 3.6L has the same issue?
@@UltraGamma25 a half ass filter installed at the end of the oil pump pickup tube submerged in the oil pan to catch "big" chunks(compared to glitter) of metal in case of a "blown engine". There's probably more to it but that's the gist of it.
This motor is a joke period. I feel sorry for all the traverse, Acadia, equinox (last Gen had V6 optional) and all the other models that have this crap engine.
GM released a TSB for these engines and a "recall" for I believe 2009-2013 models as per the class action. Their solution was to reprogram the ECM for 3k mile oil changes instead of 5k or 6k. It's been a while since I was willing to touch one so you'll want to look that up. The PCV fix would be better but you know, manufacturers want the cheapest solution possible, even if it costs you double in oil changes. Pull those valve covers and the RH will be dark while the LH looks perfect. So much for R&D before release!
I’ve done this myself on what was considered a junk engine without any special products. Just did seven oil changes in one day. Saved a truck that I bought for next to nothing. Kept it for many years of heavy use changing the oil every 2500-3000 miles after the initial cleaning. With all the detergents in modern oils extra additives are not necessary.
How long did you idle the truck between oil changes? :) I have read that oil flushes can damage the engine, but all that I have gathered so far is that sometimes the seals are bad and the sludge is actually providing a seal, so you get leaks afterward. Also, the flush may loosen contaminants from one place, and they just get stuck somewhere else.
An owner giving up on a car because of what a dealer says; obviously the dealer has a conflict of interest. Dealers are notorious for creating work ticket estimates that exceed the value of the car so they can give the "You may as well just trade it" pitch.
No, as a tech in a dealer, we have to be able to perform a repair that we can stand behind warranty wise. No way we can just throw timing chains on a high mileage sludged up engine. If we cant perform a repair that can be warrantied at any dealer in the country, we wont do it and recommend, in our opinion,, the best solution. The customer is ALWAYS welcome to take their vehicle to a independent shop and have a less reliable, cheaper repair performed. Also, the service department could give a shit less what happens in sales. We are paid on flat rate so if we are not doing a repair, we dont get paid. Obviously sending the customer to the sales department would mean I wont make a dime off of it. So no, there is no conflict of interest. Sales and service departments in a dealer are two totally different businesses.
@@colescrustycars That's something a lot of people don't understand. A dealer can't offer a fix that they can't reasonably guarantee will fix the problem. With that amount of sludge, and likely associated damage, a new engine is the correct dealer-level fix. An independent mechanic can offer up cheap fixes if they so choose, hopefully only after getting the customer to sign off on the fact that it might not work or might make things worse, but not a dealer.
@jblyon2 if you watch alex the car guy you whuld see plenty dealerships do repair s that don't fix customer problem then good independent shops fix the problem for real him and south main auto get plenty cars dealership s mess up on
Doing the cats and getting new screens/filters for the solenoids will definitely make this engine run 100% better. I can't wait to see those chains and guides inside the engine!
He probably most likely will since he always checks the comments and allot of people have pointed it out. He actually listens to his viewers and probably looking into it as we type.
11:40 that before and after shot is truly amazing. I cringe thinking about revving the engine to static 3000 rpm in neutral for such long periods, engines aren't made for that but apparently it's not blowing up either LOL. Good video.
No worries, 3K isn't overly high for most gas engines. My car reaches 3K RPM at only 65 MPH in 5th gear and has been on many road trips at nearly 4K RPM for hours at a time and the engine still has like new oil pressure and compression with no major oil consumption almost 20 years and 280K miles later. Oh, and it sees full throttle and redline at least once every time it gets driven too. Engines are way tougher than most people realize.
I dont remember all the details but had a 71 duster with a clogged oil pickup. My dad had us drain the oil and fill with diesel with a quart of 80 wt. Ran for a while and then two oil changes. Never had an issue afterwards.
I have used diesel in old engines to clean up buildup also. In the current engine I'm working on, I would put a gallon of diesel in the engine and then spin the oil pump with a drill to circulate it all though the oil passageways. I did this until the diesel would come out relativity clean.
i just use seafoam... 1/3 of the can in the tank, 1/3 of the can in the oil, and 1/3 of the can down the intake. if they are bad like this one, i'd do half a can in the oil, and half a can down the intake to give it a lil love. I have used diesel fuel in the oil a few times on nasty motors though, works pretty good.
In the old days when we had a sledged up engine like that we drained the oil and used kerosene to clean out the engine. Worked in anything that quakerstate had been used in.
Good ol quickerstick. Good to gum up any engine. Pulled down a Ford 351m once that had quakerstate since day one. I had to scrape the gunk out with a serving spoon. Just nasty.
It's sad seeing how the previous owner maintained this car as these really are great cars. I have a 2010 SS with a full bolt on and cammed LS3, and it has been the best and most reliable car I have owned. I am sure JR will get this one back in top shape though!
About the main thing I look at is that . The oil slug that possibly wasn't all removed from oil pan will get sucked up by oil pickup tube and clog up the screen . I would remove the oil pan just so u know 100% that it is clean inside the oil pan in the oil pump screen is not clogged at all .
I love the look of these late model Camaros. The instrument pod absolutely sucks though! I hope that stuff worked and am looking forward to seeing it opened up and the timing chain change.
I do appreciate all these videos. I had mentioned in another video that i just picked up a 2010 RS with 74k miles on it. And with all you're maintenance videos it'll give me an idea of what I may need to do down the road. Or what I can do to prevent it. I'm a crew chief at an auto center. So I have the mechanical skill. But its good to see stuff first hand before it catches me by surprise. Keep it up dude! Thanks again!
@Sewan & Sawen Creations Oh, I know. I do pretty much all my own repairs, and my dad has been a mechanic since the 60s, or really, the fifties when he started building race cars as a teen, and has rebuilt goodness knows how many motors. I was just poking a little fun after the last video where he said “I broke my own rule. ‘Never fix an engine, just replace it at the beginning’ after the beemer cratered ignominiously. And here we are again… :) But… different engines, different issues…
I know a lot of people hate this engine (3.6L V6 direct injection) but I have had good luck with it. Used to own a 2008 Buick Enclave. Had that engine for about 10 years, 150,000 miles. Really never had trouble with it. Used BG products every 30,000 miles to keep the direct injection system clean, and the engine was good. I believe this engine comes down to maintenance, but most don't do it correctly as GM has nothing in the maintenance plan about cleaning the direct injection system. Same thing goes for the 2.0L Ecotec turbo 4 cylinder direct injection engine which I now have in a 2018 Buick Envision. Cleaned it again with BG products at 30,000 and so far no issues but a young 36,000 miles.
I’ve used the bg cleaner before. I took pictures with the valve cover off before and after. Wow!! I was blown away with how well it worked. All bg products are great
I've been a Technician for 38 years and I can tell you that your chances of success is slim to none. Plugged pick up screen, stuck oil pressure relief valve and or oil filter full of sludge chowder. Completely contaminated VVT oil circuits.
@@OGCJ10 There is no good answer. The right way of doing it would be to tear it down clean it then reassemble. But that's not practical Answer for everyone. When you use an engine flush solvent and it starts to react with the sludge it will continue to flake off and make its way into the Pan. At that point your best bet is to simply remove the oil pan clean out as much as you can, clean out our pick up tube to the oil pump. Reassemble and do multiple oil changes.
I normally use diesel to remove engine sludge. Before an oil change I put a quart of diesel in the oil and run it an idle for 10 min then drain the oil. Had pretty good results so far.
This is not a good practice at ALL. Knew a guy who destroyed an engine doing that. My rule of thumb, if the additive is not made to be driven with it in the crankcase, I don't want it in my engine.
I watched with great interest. I have an '11 Chevy Traverse with this engine, 125k on the clock. When I bought it last year, was told the timing chains and tensioners were done, showed paperwork. Car ran well, but I went ahead and dropped the oil and changed the filter. When I looked down the oil fill, saw a LOT of varnish on the cam. I bought a gallon of good ol' Marvel Mystery Oil and put about a quart and a half in. Topped the oil and drove her about 150-200 miles and dropped the oil again. New filter and oil, another quart and a half of Marvel, oil, and drove her another 200 miles. Dropped the oil and it came out MUCH cleaner than before. Rinse and repeat. I've put about 1k of miles on her, powerful and smooth. Almost time for another change now. Looked down the fill hole and was quite surprised that the cam was almost completely clean!!! After the next change, I'll drop the oil at 3k miles and a new filter every time. Good old Marvel to the rescue!! I had no idea about the cleaner you used on the Camaro; might have gone that way instead. Previous owner was lax about oil changes like on your car John. But took great care of all cosmetics and all other mechanicals on this girl! Oil changes are EASY. Can't understand why folks let them slide!!!!! Cheaper than a new engine, as my dad used to say!
I have the exact same car, same year. That's good to hear it's running good for you now. We switched to Royal Purple oil and it seems to be running a lot better. Also put in NGK spark plugs.
WOW! That seemed to do a ton with breaking down that sludge. I've had the B&G cooling system and trans flushes done before with awesome results. Might have this done on my high mileage cars!
Had two of these flushes done. 1000 bucks later same codes and sludge. Kia cadenza 46k miles. I really hoped it would work. BG even gave the mechanic a second kit and he just charged me for the oil changes and labor.
I’ve done lots of chain kits on Vz and Ve Commodores. Sludgy engines due to poor ventilation. It pays to drop the sump and manually clean all the sludge out safely rather than flushing. Replace the oil pick up O-ring and strainer while you’re in there 👍
I love cartridge filters. I had one on the 2.2 Ecotech on the '04 Ion 1 that I owned. It made a fraction of a mess that the regular filters on my other vehicles make changing them. The only one I didn't like was the cartridge filter in the '91 Grand Am LE because it was on the bottom of the engine and the cap was thin sheet metal and the molded 'nut' stripped from it.
I’ve had a few cars I’ve been able to revive with BG products. When you got over 6qts buy the 32oz bottle of EPR and a couple cans of MOA. EPR also amazing in diesels
Nice video, looking forward to the next ones. Just a note though, when adding fuel cleaner, use a clean funnel! When I inspect oil filters, I cut out a section of the media and lay it out, the folds are where the debris will collect. It will be much easier to see and pass a magnet over it to draw out any iron. Works good on iron block diesels but, might not be much help on aluminum gas engines.
Should used sea foam next. Change the timing chain and guides. Change the pvc and idle air control valve just in case and clean the oil pan and magnet.
BG is good stuff. They make an additive that helps every single system on a vehicle. Just added their tire air additive. Supposed to keep the tires from dry rotting and from developing stiff spots in the sidewall.
These engines are known for stretching timing chains from long maintenance intervals/extended run time at low oil level. I experienced this on an Ultra low mileage Enclave I purchased as a daily driver. One owner Vehicle had 48k miles and CEL came on - timing was off and soon after cats clogged and burned due to running rich. Long story short your going to need timing chains, cats, O2 sensors, check cam actuators and clean out the valve covers/change PCV. You will be surprised how finicky these engines are to maintaining the right amount of oil and interval. These do suffer from too much oil vapor getting sucked from the crank case to intake - CHANGE THE HEADCOVER GASKETS - GM updates the design and didn’t tell anyone. Make sure you get the new ones from the dealer! Good luck brotha - enjoying the channel!
I've had good luck with BG products in the past. I don't have any experience with this particular one though. Hopefully it saves you some money and work. Love your channel.
David Stanley is a joke. Check out aar(auto auction Rebuilds) on his nightmare stories on how he traded in 2 or 3 cars and they sold them but never paid off the leins, randy from aar was getting late payment notifications from his bank on the cars he traded in and they had already resold! When he confronted them they blew him off but yet he still buys from them. He's a fool for that honestly. Great honest guy but he's a idiot for giving them goons more money for his the new ram 2500 and now the new jeep he just bought.
@@B0xlife1 Randy is an idiot and is losing touch with his viewers I think. He barely works on cars and bans anyone who says anything negative about it.
@@corionh4775 I'm pretty sure Randy lost his licence and that's why he can only buy donated/clean title cars. All he does is some basic engine work and then a cheap paint job that looks good on camera before sending it away. All while breathing through his nose. Vehcor and Nobori Auto are great channels to check out.
I was never really a fan of additives and “snake oils”. But after selling BG products for several years at a dealership, I’d have no hesitation recommending their stuff for their intended purposes.
For a leaking evaporator use red angel system sealer, the 2oz bottle, I ve used it on two cars OMG it works great. 2010 mustang, was able to avoid pulling the dash. You know once you have a repair like that it will never be the same.
That's what happens when you change the oil every 10k previous owner must have never done routine PM's I was surprised with the flush looks like it did a decent job. Hope it works out for you. 👍
on my jeep wrangler i usually change my oil every 3 months or 3000 miles and if the 3 months are up and i'm under 3000 I still change it regardless. I also drive very short trips
They say to stretch out the oil change interval mainly to make it seem like the newer engines are so much more reliable and better built they don't need their oil changed as often. I would think unless you have a super filter you would still want to change it out every 3k or so. I have always changed my oil and filter every 3k give or take. It's still one of the cheapest things you can do for your car to make it live longer. The newer cars have a oil change light that sometimes tests the quality of the oil to tell you when it's gone away and needs to be changed. Pretty sure if oil stays clean you could run it till the additives go away and just add what it needs but most cars don't filter well enough to get away with that, especially once they start wearing out.
@@69Dartman my jeep is 20 years old and it has no oil change light. You're absolutely right about changing the oil every 3k miles I've done that with every car i had and they've lasted til i would trade them in for a different one and they were still running great when i did. I'm also sticking to the older cars cause 1st i can't afford them and second i'm a simple man i really don't need and the fancy stuff that comes with the newer cars.
@ I bought my Dart in 79 with 63k on it and got my license in it eventually. I still own it and it has 175k now on the original 318. I have retired it and am driving my lil sisters old 95 neon she bought new after I told her what options to get. It has 189k on it now and still runs fine. I got it with 155k and have replaced the water pump and timing belt, front pads and rotors, plugs, and rear main in that time from 05 to now.
I use Berriman's B12 Chemtool. It does the same thing. I have bought many lemons in the exact same condition. I could use other solvents, but the price per ounce is about the same, and the b12 works. As for the additive blend that's based on bearing wear.
The variance in RPM was due to the AC compressor kicking on if you look at the part of the video where you are checking the oil pressure you can see it goes off and on.
Not really, I have seen 2010 - 2014 camaros sell for more that had blown engines and banged up bodies. The overall condition of JRGo's camaro is very clean & straight plus it still even ran. Look on ebay and see how much wrecked gen 5 camaros go for that are wrecked or are in need of an engine, $4 grand was a good deal for this one.
@@thedude6547 that's your problem right there looking on eBay LOL Facebook Marketplace has done right now newer model RS and SS blown motor or bad tranny's for like $1,300
Interesting to watch, but having performed a timing chain service on this motor, it's my opinion that your money would have been better spent on the basic can of engine flush for a few dollars which would have yielded similar shiny results and loosened rings since the timing chains needed to be replaced anyway. The oil pan is easy to remove with the timing cover off in order to clear any debris dislodged from up top and instead of $300 on a flush series that seemed to try and blow up the motor in the process, it would have been better spent on replacing all four cam actuators and cam solenoids which would have cost right at that amount, as the actuators wear internally, reducing their efficiency and they are often not changed with the chains. I've seen far worse regarding the sludge which really wasn't that bad in this motor. When the new timing chains go on, it will run like a new motor. Just be sure to use full synthetic motor oil to reduce the sludge risk and make sure you perform a clear-flood crank (pedal to the floor to disable fuel) so that the oil system is pressurized before the motor is allowed to run, or the chains will rattle and clack for several seconds at startup which doesn't sound good at all. It's a good motor when taken care of, unfortunately the bump in technology sacrificed timing chain life although I have read of a near 300k mile commuter 3.6L motor. Oil it good and regularly and it can reach 200k miles on the original chains.
For those of you who like Space Balls, I only recently discovered that there was an animated show on G4 in 2008-09 or so. I watched it a few weeks ago online and it was actually pretty hilarious, you can even find the episodes on TH-cam. Mel Brooks actually stars in it too and created and produced it. Worth a watch. th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=spaceballs+animated+series
Big fan of BG products. But, for this engine I would run Valvoline Premium Blue Restore (available at Cummins dealers). It's designed to run a full service interval and it will clean an engine. In the case of this particular engine I would have done both. Run the BG treatment first, and then the Valvoline for a service envelop. THEN do the engine mechanical stuff :)
What does pouring that into the fuel tank do? There is no part of the engine that can benefit as fuel does not touch the backsides of the valves or any other part of the engine internals to benefit. Also, never do a engine running solvent based cleaning on ANY GDI engine as while most of the hard crystalline coking deposits will be expelled out the exhaust, some is always pushed between the pistons and cylinder walls causing scouring we see when we tear these down to rebuild. And for the 2008-2012 (any with the black plastic valve covers), needs the PCV barb drill mod performed. Remove the barb located on the rear of the passenger side valve cover. Grasp base and twist while pulling straight up and drill bottom 2 holes to 5/64" and the top single hole to 1/8". Re seat back and that will now allow the proper CFM of evacuation flow to correct that flaw. Now, the timing chain wear and stretch is caused by the issues that plague all GDI engines, the excessive amount of raw fuel washdown and dilution as well as dealers using syn blend oil that cannot deal with the fuel dilution and high amounts of abrasive particulate matter. I guarantee you still need the timing set replaced, and only a manual intake valve cleaning can clean all the deposits and also the only safe procedure. NO shop in the US does more of these engines than we do, and have for the past 10-12 years. Anything you want to know, just ask.
So many dealers today won’t go in depth with an engine, it’s replace or go somewhere else. I had one local say a head gasket on an iron block iron head engine needed a new engine.
In the 70s and 80s, my dad would run tranny fluid into a sludgy engine, drive 50 miles, change, and refill. We fixed a messed up 1975 ramcharger with a blown timing chain that was blowing smoke that way (also, the new timing chain).
Would you still get sludge if you regularly changed oil with an oil extractor through dipstick. I've change mine yearly every 3k there's nothing on filter, or on the cap and car runs just fine.
Once just open the oil pan and have a look at the pickup tube. It will be really helpful. At times they clog up and you won't have the required oil flow or lubricant happening in the engine.
Saw that you opened the hood so as to run cooler during that stint at 3K rpm.... that actually is worse, because it allows air to bypass the radiator as the fan draws it in. With the hood closed the air is forced to go through the radiator into the engine compartment, helping the radiator do its job and keep the engine cool.
Same with Diesel air compressors. If the cowl/hoods are removed, the diesels cant overheat - it's posted all over the manual and labels that say: "Warning... Do not.... (etc)..." We rented it and labels were plastered everywhere to avoid leaving hoods/covers opened.
Hey! I used to work for BG in KCMO. Fun fact: BG doesn’t stand for anything. It was a way for the company to get a top corner page in the Yellow pages!
Jr id be pulling the pan off and checking oil pick up screen after you've put the cleaner through it. it will give you peace of mind if nothing else. Also the sludge that frees itself has to go somewhere..We had an imported Volvo xc90 come in from the importer with oil pressure dropping off at revs. The car had 120000kms on it and was immaculate. So we put a flush through it and then fresh oil and filter. The importer didn't want to spend any money on it because it cuts into his profit. That fixed it for 3 days and it came back again with the same problem, so this time we did it properly . We took the rocker cover off and it was way worse than your car you have there. You could hardly see the cams. We sprayed degreaser on to the cams and brushed the worst of it off and drained it over night So the next morning we pulled off the pan and scraped out the inch and a half of sludge that hadnt drained out over night. You could see the impression the oil pickup had made in the sludge. It was like asoft grease.we took the oil pick up off and set fire to it with some gas in a steel tray outside on bricks. The oil pressure relief came out too and we cleaned it out and refitted it. It burns the sludge off the screen without damaging it. It turns to carbon and washes off with degreaser. We hired a steam cleaner ( A hot pressure washer) Jacked it up and stood on a step ladder and blasted it from the top down and the from the bottom up. a messy job. It went back together . We put fresh oil in it and a filter in it and the importer gave the new owners a free oil change after 1000km of purchase. it worked. We think some one put in the wrong type of oil at some stage in its life. maybe a heavy diesel rated oil.
I had a Toyota pickup that had an oil sludge issue when I got it. Just so you know all those products may work perfectly but you'll still want to pull the oil pan and manually clean the oil pan. I learned the hard way so just trying to save you some grief. I was doing 70 mph on the I-40 and wasn't watching the oil pressure close enough and it lost pressure and before you could say Christmas 3 times as fast as you can all the rod bearings started knocking. You might want to change the rod bearings as a safety provision.
This is gonna be like the 4th time I've said this in these comments today, but an inspection cam is like $50 now. If you think you could have a problem, get one and send it on mission to see. It takes 5 minutes to run one in the drain hole and simply observe the condition of the pan and pick up. I may have to make a video on this soon because it seems a lot of guys don't know just how cheap these things have become. I didn't until I got one for Christmas last year and thought it was a really luxurious gift so I had to look it up out of guilt. They're likely cheaper than most pan gaskets and pick up tubes.
That gas door has a small plastic hook that you hang the gas cap cable across so it doesn't hang on side of car. Had a GM car a few years before I figured that out.
I had the same exact issue with my aunts cadillac cts 3.6, that has the same exact engine. If your seeing sparkles in the oil filter, thats more likely rod bearing. Our oil sludged up and took out the rod bearings, and me being slick to save money. I just dropped the pan myself, sanded the crankshaft journals smooth and put all new rod bearings, but torqued the problem bearing 10 pounds more and surprisingly that lasted for 2 years, but because they didnt keep up with the oil changes again, they destroyed the engine. This time the mechanic slapped in a new crankshaft, and bearings.
I bought a 2011 camaro lt couple years back and the engine had the timing chain recently changed and the car had 4 owners . So in less than a month of purchase the engine went n the dealership said that it had alot of sludge in it. They ended up replacing the engine but its crazy that car had the same problem.
Could you have purchased another 6 quarts of the rinse oil? Doing that step again to see if the oil comes out any clearer would have been the ticket imo.
I change the oil every 1500 miles in mine. I use K&N oil and filter in mine. I’ve played with it and in my case it likes to run better with the K&N oil and filter.
Miracle stuff that dislodge sludge fast will put alot of stuff in the strainer. Would drop the pan and change the strainer at least.
Nothing a good PROPANE TORCH couldn't burn and clean, assuming the strainer is the all metal and mesh type.
Yup take off the pan, make sure OIL PICKUP IS CLEAN!!!!
When I ran the BG cleaner at the dealer the BG guy showed us how it dissolves the sludge instead of it just flaking off so it doesn't cause any issues. The 1.8L VW engines sludged all the time from pcv issues and we ran this kit and it worked well. We did have to replace the pickup also but those were common to stop up on the 1.8L so idk if the 3.6L has the same issue?
What is a strainer?
@@UltraGamma25 a half ass filter installed at the end of the oil pump pickup tube submerged in the oil pan to catch "big" chunks(compared to glitter) of metal in case of a "blown engine". There's probably more to it but that's the gist of it.
3.6 engine has poor venting on one side valve cover that's why it's cleaner on one side.
Timing chains always go bad on these because of that.
This. JR please look up the PCV drill mod on camaro5 forums for these things man.
This motor is a joke period. I feel sorry for all the traverse, Acadia, equinox (last Gen had V6 optional) and all the other models that have this crap engine.
I wouldnt touch this snake oil repair with a 58 foot pole. Good waste of money scam companies appreciate ur business.
Scammed.
@@darrenlub Absolutely!! read comment above
GM released a TSB for these engines and a "recall" for I believe 2009-2013 models as per the class action. Their solution was to reprogram the ECM for 3k mile oil changes instead of 5k or 6k. It's been a while since I was willing to touch one so you'll want to look that up. The PCV fix would be better but you know, manufacturers want the cheapest solution possible, even if it costs you double in oil changes. Pull those valve covers and the RH will be dark while the LH looks perfect. So much for R&D before release!
I’ve done this myself on what was considered a junk engine without any special products. Just did seven oil changes in one day. Saved a truck that I bought for next to nothing. Kept it for many years of heavy use changing the oil every 2500-3000 miles after the initial cleaning.
With all the detergents in modern oils extra additives are not necessary.
How long did you idle the truck between oil changes? :)
I have read that oil flushes can damage the engine, but all that I have gathered so far is that sometimes the seals are bad and the sludge is actually providing a seal, so you get leaks afterward.
Also, the flush may loosen contaminants from one place, and they just get stuck somewhere else.
I'm digging this diagnosis and repair series even though I don't own a Camaro.
Yes I'm not even old enough to drive but I'm still interested
An owner giving up on a car because of what a dealer says; obviously the dealer has a conflict of interest. Dealers are notorious for creating work ticket estimates that exceed the value of the car so they can give the "You may as well just trade it" pitch.
No, as a tech in a dealer, we have to be able to perform a repair that we can stand behind warranty wise. No way we can just throw timing chains on a high mileage sludged up engine. If we cant perform a repair that can be warrantied at any dealer in the country, we wont do it and recommend, in our opinion,, the best solution. The customer is ALWAYS welcome to take their vehicle to a independent shop and have a less reliable, cheaper repair performed. Also, the service department could give a shit less what happens in sales. We are paid on flat rate so if we are not doing a repair, we dont get paid. Obviously sending the customer to the sales department would mean I wont make a dime off of it. So no, there is no conflict of interest. Sales and service departments in a dealer are two totally different businesses.
@@colescrustycars That's something a lot of people don't understand. A dealer can't offer a fix that they can't reasonably guarantee will fix the problem. With that amount of sludge, and likely associated damage, a new engine is the correct dealer-level fix. An independent mechanic can offer up cheap fixes if they so choose, hopefully only after getting the customer to sign off on the fact that it might not work or might make things worse, but not a dealer.
@jblyon2 if you watch alex the car guy you whuld see plenty dealerships do repair s that don't fix customer problem then good independent shops fix the problem for real him and south main auto get plenty cars dealership s mess up on
Doing the cats and getting new screens/filters for the solenoids will definitely make this engine run 100% better. I can't wait to see those chains and guides inside the engine!
You have no clue how impatient i've been for this video. You're definitely making your way to the top of my favorite TH-camr list!
Jr a lube tuber now
Me too I've been interested in BG products but I've never seen anything except " sales pitch" videos.
I hope JR does a mod for the PCV. It would help a lot with preventing sludge in future.
He probably most likely will since he always checks the comments and allot of people have pointed it out. He actually listens to his viewers and probably looking into it as we type.
oil is cheap change it at 3000 miles you will be fine
please see my comment above. Is that what you are referring to?
Once you see sludge, build up and an engine. It is an absolute indicator that the damage is already done
This is fast becoming one of my favorite channels. Keep up the great job!!
It’s been my favorite for a long time. Mainly because JR is such a no nonsense down to earth guy
@@AricBolf, that in the fact the he uploads often. Alot of the channels I watch that got kinda big, got lazy and only post once a week.
@@AricBolf , absolutely 💯.. J.R is hungry to grow his channel and I am enjoying his enthusiasm and energy. It is a win win for me..
Way better watching this then that idiot on AAR who knows almost nothing except to jabber away like he does.
@@dave11686 I know right! Nothing like moody bipolar show off schmuck Tyler Hoover!
11:40 that before and after shot is truly amazing. I cringe thinking about revving the engine to static 3000 rpm in neutral for such long periods, engines aren't made for that but apparently it's not blowing up either LOL. Good video.
No worries, 3K isn't overly high for most gas engines. My car reaches 3K RPM at only 65 MPH in 5th gear and has been on many road trips at nearly 4K RPM for hours at a time and the engine still has like new oil pressure and compression with no major oil consumption almost 20 years and 280K miles later. Oh, and it sees full throttle and redline at least once every time it gets driven too. Engines are way tougher than most people realize.
i worked at a VW performance shop we used to put diesel gas in to the engine it would fix the stuck lifters 99% of the time
I dont remember all the details but had a 71 duster with a clogged oil pickup. My dad had us drain the oil and fill with diesel with a quart of 80 wt. Ran for a while and then two oil changes. Never had an issue afterwards.
I have used diesel in old engines to clean up buildup also. In the current engine I'm working on, I would put a gallon of diesel in the engine and then spin the oil pump with a drill to circulate it all though the oil passageways. I did this until the diesel would come out relativity clean.
Our version of this used ATF fluid
i just use seafoam... 1/3 of the can in the tank, 1/3 of the can in the oil, and 1/3 of the can down the intake. if they are bad like this one, i'd do half a can in the oil, and half a can down the intake to give it a lil love. I have used diesel fuel in the oil a few times on nasty motors though, works pretty good.
You said you used to work at a VW performance shop.......and you said "diesel gas" !
You evidently were the janitor !
😊😊😊
In the old days when we had a sledged up engine like that we drained the oil and used kerosene to clean out the engine. Worked in anything that quakerstate had been used in.
Good ol quickerstick. Good to gum up any engine. Pulled down a Ford 351m once that had quakerstate since day one. I had to scrape the gunk out with a serving spoon. Just nasty.
We used to use kerosene also. I am guessing today with all the sensors probably not a good idea.
Quaker State & Pennzoil....the stink alone is terrible
1-K Kerosene $1.43/gallon. Marvel Mystery Oil - Oil Enhancer and Fuel Treatment, 1 Gallon $15.87. Both better than whatever snake oil they sold you.
We use to add a quart of ATF because it has lots of detergent, run it around for a day and flush same as this but cheap
Might want to have J & J Auto Wrecking on the lookout for a low mileage Camaro Engine
It's sad seeing how the previous owner maintained this car as these really are great cars. I have a 2010 SS with a full bolt on and cammed LS3, and it has been the best and most reliable car I have owned. I am sure JR will get this one back in top shape though!
Clearly a female owned this car
@@deanwinchester119 100% lmao
About the main thing I look at is that .
The oil slug that possibly wasn't all removed from oil pan will get sucked up by oil pickup tube and clog up the screen . I would remove the oil pan just so u know 100% that it is clean inside the oil pan in the oil pump screen is not clogged at all .
you have too remove sump to get timing cover off anyway
I love the look of these late model Camaros. The instrument pod absolutely sucks though!
I hope that stuff worked and am looking forward to seeing it opened up and the timing chain change.
I do appreciate all these videos. I had mentioned in another video that i just picked up a 2010 RS with 74k miles on it. And with all you're maintenance videos it'll give me an idea of what I may need to do down the road. Or what I can do to prevent it. I'm a crew chief at an auto center. So I have the mechanical skill. But its good to see stuff first hand before it catches me by surprise. Keep it up dude! Thanks again!
Great video I've had the dealer use bg products the clean my fuel injectors and it worked good but I do my oil changes every 3000 miles
“Never fix an engine” eh, more of a guideline than a rule… Makes for good video… :)
@Sewan & Sawen Creations Oh, I know. I do pretty much all my own repairs, and my dad has been a mechanic since the 60s, or really, the fifties when he started building race cars as a teen, and has rebuilt goodness knows how many motors. I was just poking a little fun after the last video where he said “I broke my own rule. ‘Never fix an engine, just replace it at the beginning’ after the beemer cratered ignominiously. And here we are again… :) But… different engines, different issues…
@Sewan & Sawen Creations Heck, we’ve got an 8.3 diesel in the shop right now that we’re in the diagnosing stages to decide if it’s worth fixing.
Are you over there with a Parrot on your shoulder, Matey!!! Arrgh!!!
I know a lot of people hate this engine (3.6L V6 direct injection) but I have had good luck with it. Used to own a 2008 Buick Enclave. Had that engine for about 10 years, 150,000 miles. Really never had trouble with it. Used BG products every 30,000 miles to keep the direct injection system clean, and the engine was good. I believe this engine comes down to maintenance, but most don't do it correctly as GM has nothing in the maintenance plan about cleaning the direct injection system. Same thing goes for the 2.0L Ecotec turbo 4 cylinder direct injection engine which I now have in a 2018 Buick Envision. Cleaned it again with BG products at 30,000 and so far no issues but a young 36,000 miles.
I’ve used the bg cleaner before. I took pictures with the valve cover off before and after. Wow!! I was blown away with how well it worked. All bg products are great
I've been a Technician for 38 years and I can tell you that your chances of success is slim to none. Plugged pick up screen, stuck oil pressure relief valve and or oil filter full of sludge chowder. Completely contaminated VVT oil circuits.
In your opinion what's the best way to go about cleaning it out then ?
@@OGCJ10 There is no good answer. The right way of doing it would be to tear it down clean it then reassemble. But that's not practical Answer for everyone. When you use an engine flush solvent and it starts to react with the sludge it will continue to flake off and make its way into the Pan. At that point your best bet is to simply remove the oil pan clean out as much as you can, clean out our pick up tube to the oil pump. Reassemble and do multiple oil changes.
I normally use diesel to remove engine sludge. Before an oil change I put a quart of diesel in the oil and run it an idle for 10 min then drain the oil. Had pretty good results so far.
I heard 50/50 oil And ATF is a good cleaner too.
This is not a good practice at ALL. Knew a guy who destroyed an engine doing that. My rule of thumb, if the additive is not made to be driven with it in the crankcase, I don't want it in my engine.
Many engine flush products are mostly kerosene and ultra low sulphur diesel
I had a local bloke suggest this to me and thought old mate was taking the piss
Use palm oil to flush or mix it with your car oil.
You fixing and/or flipping cars that regular guys can buy is what we love you for. Keep it up. Your content is great.
JR was finally forced to use funnels....
I watched with great interest. I have an '11 Chevy Traverse with this engine, 125k on the clock. When I bought it last year, was told the timing chains and tensioners were done, showed paperwork. Car ran well, but I went ahead and dropped the oil and changed the filter. When I looked down the oil fill, saw a LOT of varnish on the cam. I bought a gallon of good ol' Marvel Mystery Oil and put about a quart and a half in. Topped the oil and drove her about 150-200 miles and dropped the oil again. New filter and oil, another quart and a half of Marvel, oil, and drove her another 200 miles. Dropped the oil and it came out MUCH cleaner than before. Rinse and repeat. I've put about 1k of miles on her, powerful and smooth. Almost time for another change now. Looked down the fill hole and was quite surprised that the cam was almost completely clean!!! After the next change, I'll drop the oil at 3k miles and a new filter every time. Good old Marvel to the rescue!! I had no idea about the cleaner you used on the Camaro; might have gone that way instead. Previous owner was lax about oil changes like on your car John. But took great care of all cosmetics and all other mechanicals on this girl! Oil changes are EASY. Can't understand why folks let them slide!!!!! Cheaper than a new engine, as my dad used to say!
I have the exact same car, same year. That's good to hear it's running good for you now. We switched to Royal Purple oil and it seems to be running a lot better. Also put in NGK spark plugs.
WOW! That seemed to do a ton with breaking down that sludge. I've had the B&G cooling system and trans flushes done before with awesome results. Might have this done on my high mileage cars!
One of the few TH-cam channels that I watch videos cover to cover. You and Chris fix.
Vent the un pcv'd valve cover. Seems to be the reason alloytec's keep dropping chains.
R.I.P HOLDEN
Amen to that
Had two of these flushes done. 1000 bucks later same codes and sludge. Kia cadenza 46k miles. I really hoped it would work. BG even gave the mechanic a second kit and he just charged me for the oil changes and labor.
I use BG Products at work. Mainly on diesel trucks. I sent a link to my BG rep so he can enjoy your journey too.
I’ve done lots of chain kits on Vz and Ve Commodores. Sludgy engines due to poor ventilation. It pays to drop the sump and manually clean all the sludge out safely rather than flushing. Replace the oil pick up O-ring and strainer while you’re in there 👍
The Car Ninja definitely needs a TH-cam channel and an IG social media manager...JR?
The car ninja does have a TH-cam channel.
@@jeff7.629 Not really I think it's one of his associate's.
@@projectnerdvana2820 th-cam.com/channels/tEVJt0r0akdubSmLZhqf7A.html
@@aarond23 I know about that channel but I think he shares it with someone
Velocity garage
I love cartridge filters. I had one on the 2.2 Ecotech on the '04 Ion 1 that I owned. It made a fraction of a mess that the regular filters on my other vehicles make changing them. The only one I didn't like was the cartridge filter in the '91 Grand Am LE because it was on the bottom of the engine and the cap was thin sheet metal and the molded 'nut' stripped from it.
Looks great! I’d pop open the oil pan to see if the sludge went to the pan
I’ve had a few cars I’ve been able to revive with BG products. When you got over 6qts buy the 32oz bottle of EPR and a couple cans of MOA.
EPR also amazing in diesels
Car Ninjas shop: Mini, BMW, Fiat, BMW, Mercedes... Chevy.
He's Fearless!
Yup anything that costs a lot to maintain. Where is Dodge on the list?
Nice video, looking forward to the next ones. Just a note though, when adding fuel cleaner, use a clean funnel! When I inspect oil filters, I cut out a section of the media and lay it out, the folds are where the debris will collect. It will be much easier to see and pass a magnet over it to draw out any iron. Works good on iron block diesels but, might not be much help on aluminum gas engines.
You should be able to see the Oil Pressure and Temp on the dashboard if you toggle through the dash display. I can on my 2014
I wonder what the inside of the oil pan looks like.
He should drop it and clean it.
Should used sea foam next. Change the timing chain and guides. Change the pvc and idle air control valve just in case and clean the oil pan and magnet.
I'm pretty early for once! Watching from Sweden and here it's 01.15 at night 😄
Wish you guys in Sweden 🇸🇪 would put out more Volvo content had to find much...love my XC70....lol
You can watch it any time of the day you know, the video will still be there
@@ruststar Yes I know that. That wasn't what I wrote 🤦♂️
Shout out to the Ninja.👍
💯 literally couldn’t have done this without him! Wouldn’t sell it to me.
Luv these cross over EPs, like Batman. Visits the. GREEN HORNET
Haven't gotten more than 20 seconds in but as a fuel and lubrications expert BG is the shiz it won't fix broken but it's amazing how well it works.
It worked crazy well 💯
Wait a minute.......at the very end there you mentioned clogged cats’? That’s a big part of your engine problems.
I was thinking the same thing. That would cause the car to be "slow" as he said it. Or it would feel like it has low power.
BG is good stuff. They make an additive that helps every single system on a vehicle. Just added their tire air additive. Supposed to keep the tires from dry rotting and from developing stiff spots in the sidewall.
air additive seems like snake oil to me
Filling the crankcase with diesel and running it also achieves the same results. Excellent flush and cleaner. Very cheap as well.
Can confirm.
Sorry Boomer, it doesn’t. At least not on this much sludge
Naw diesel will not clean sludge. Diesel itself is an oil and not a detergent.
These engines are known for stretching timing chains from long maintenance intervals/extended run time at low oil level. I experienced this on an Ultra low mileage Enclave I purchased as a daily driver. One owner Vehicle had 48k miles and CEL came on - timing was off and soon after cats clogged and burned due to running rich. Long story short your going to need timing chains, cats, O2 sensors, check cam actuators and clean out the valve covers/change PCV. You will be surprised how finicky these engines are to maintaining the right amount of oil and interval. These do suffer from too much oil vapor getting sucked from the crank case to intake - CHANGE THE HEADCOVER GASKETS - GM updates the design and didn’t tell anyone. Make sure you get the new ones from the dealer! Good luck brotha - enjoying the channel!
A few moments later.... "Looks like we have to put in a new engine"
I've had good luck with BG products in the past. I don't have any experience with this particular one though. Hopefully it saves you some money and work. Love your channel.
It is from Oklahoma, noticed a David Stanley Chevrolet sticker on the last video.
Good call! 🍻
David Stanley is a joke. Check out aar(auto auction Rebuilds) on his nightmare stories on how he traded in 2 or 3 cars and they sold them but never paid off the leins, randy from aar was getting late payment notifications from his bank on the cars he traded in and they had already resold! When he confronted them they blew him off but yet he still buys from them. He's a fool for that honestly. Great honest guy but he's a idiot for giving them goons more money for his the new ram 2500 and now the new jeep he just bought.
@@B0xlife1 Randy is an idiot and is losing touch with his viewers I think. He barely works on cars and bans anyone who says anything negative about it.
@@kgb4187 Yeah I unsubscribed from that dude months ago... Auto Auction Rebuilds is a joke channel now. WatchJRGo gets my views.
@@corionh4775 I'm pretty sure Randy lost his licence and that's why he can only buy donated/clean title cars. All he does is some basic engine work and then a cheap paint job that looks good on camera before sending it away. All while breathing through his nose. Vehcor and Nobori Auto are great channels to check out.
I was never really a fan of additives and “snake oils”. But after selling BG products for several years at a dealership, I’d have no hesitation recommending their stuff for their intended purposes.
You know with that much sludge it may be a good idea to pull the pan and check the oil pickup screen. Just for safety sake.
For a leaking evaporator use red angel system sealer, the 2oz bottle, I ve used it on two cars OMG it works great. 2010 mustang, was able to avoid pulling the dash. You know once you have a repair like that it will never be the same.
Cant wait to see under those valve cover John Ross! If that treatment does well, that will be 300 dollars well spent!
$300 for an engine flush?
As someone else pointed out unplugged connector at 3.35, worth pointing out to make sure you put it back on as not shown on video.
I mean it's a 3.6L. I've seen them needing timing chains within the lease.
That's what happens when you change the oil every 10k previous owner must have never done routine PM's I was surprised with the flush looks like it did a decent job. Hope it works out for you. 👍
well I'm changing my oil more often
Good call! 🍻
on my jeep wrangler i usually change my oil every 3 months or 3000 miles and if the 3 months are up and i'm under 3000 I still change it regardless. I also drive very short trips
They say to stretch out the oil change interval mainly to make it seem like the newer engines are so much more reliable and better built they don't need their oil changed as often. I would think unless you have a super filter you would still want to change it out every 3k or so. I have always changed my oil and filter every 3k give or take. It's still one of the cheapest things you can do for your car to make it live longer. The newer cars have a oil change light that sometimes tests the quality of the oil to tell you when it's gone away and needs to be changed. Pretty sure if oil stays clean you could run it till the additives go away and just add what it needs but most cars don't filter well enough to get away with that, especially once they start wearing out.
@@69Dartman my jeep is 20 years old and it has no oil change light. You're absolutely right about changing the oil every 3k miles I've done that with every car i had and they've lasted til i would trade them in for a different one and they were still running great when i did. I'm also sticking to the older cars cause 1st i can't afford them and second i'm a simple man i really don't need and the fancy stuff that comes with the newer cars.
@ I bought my Dart in 79 with 63k on it and got my license in it eventually. I still own it and it has 175k now on the original 318. I have retired it and am driving my lil sisters old 95 neon she bought new after I told her what options to get. It has 189k on it now and still runs fine. I got it with 155k and have replaced the water pump and timing belt, front pads and rotors, plugs, and rear main in that time from 05 to now.
I use Berriman's B12 Chemtool. It does the same thing. I have bought many lemons in the exact same condition. I could use other solvents, but the price per ounce is about the same, and the b12 works. As for the additive blend that's based on bearing wear.
Boy that engine is loud.
The variance in RPM was due to the AC compressor kicking on if you look at the part of the video where you are checking the oil pressure you can see it goes off and on.
A 10 year old v6 Camaro with a possible bad engine for “only” $4k? Seems kinda steep.
Exactly
Not really, I have seen 2010 - 2014 camaros sell for more that had blown engines and banged up bodies. The overall condition of JRGo's camaro is very clean & straight plus it still even ran. Look on ebay and see how much wrecked gen 5 camaros go for that are wrecked or are in need of an engine, $4 grand was a good deal for this one.
@@thedude6547 that's your problem right there looking on eBay LOL Facebook Marketplace has done right now newer model RS and SS blown motor or bad tranny's for like $1,300
Yeah, the V6 is not desirable.
Jacob Meadows nobody wants a V6
Interesting to watch, but having performed a timing chain service on this motor, it's my opinion that your money would have been better spent on the basic can of engine flush for a few dollars which would have yielded similar shiny results and loosened rings since the timing chains needed to be replaced anyway.
The oil pan is easy to remove with the timing cover off in order to clear any debris dislodged from up top and instead of $300 on a flush series that seemed to try and blow up the motor in the process, it would have been better spent on replacing all four cam actuators and cam solenoids which would have cost right at that amount, as the actuators wear internally, reducing their efficiency and they are often not changed with the chains. I've seen far worse regarding the sludge which really wasn't that bad in this motor. When the new timing chains go on, it will run like a new motor. Just be sure to use full synthetic motor oil to reduce the sludge risk and make sure you perform a clear-flood crank (pedal to the floor to disable fuel) so that the oil system is pressurized before the motor is allowed to run, or the chains will rattle and clack for several seconds at startup which doesn't sound good at all. It's a good motor when taken care of, unfortunately the bump in technology sacrificed timing chain life although I have read of a near 300k mile commuter 3.6L motor. Oil it good and regularly and it can reach 200k miles on the original chains.
Why does that look like a can of liquid Swartz, does the car ninja know Yogurt the All-Powerful?
Ore like DARK HELMET was chasing LONE STAR and he went plaid in. The camaro ......where's vespa and DAT??
For those of you who like Space Balls, I only recently discovered that there was an animated show on G4 in 2008-09 or so. I watched it a few weeks ago online and it was actually pretty hilarious, you can even find the episodes on TH-cam. Mel Brooks actually stars in it too and created and produced it. Worth a watch. th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=spaceballs+animated+series
Now I gotta watch that movie
"Comb the Desert"
Big fan of BG products. But, for this engine I would run Valvoline Premium Blue Restore (available at Cummins dealers). It's designed to run a full service interval and it will clean an engine. In the case of this particular engine I would have done both. Run the BG treatment first, and then the Valvoline for a service envelop. THEN do the engine mechanical stuff :)
BG is good stuff!!
Auto Auction Rebuilds works good for your half assed repairs
@@TechOut 👀👀
What does pouring that into the fuel tank do? There is no part of the engine that can benefit as fuel does not touch the backsides of the valves or any other part of the engine internals to benefit. Also, never do a engine running solvent based cleaning on ANY GDI engine as while most of the hard crystalline coking deposits will be expelled out the exhaust, some is always pushed between the pistons and cylinder walls causing scouring we see when we tear these down to rebuild. And for the 2008-2012 (any with the black plastic valve covers), needs the PCV barb drill mod performed. Remove the barb located on the rear of the passenger side valve cover. Grasp base and twist while pulling straight up and drill bottom 2 holes to 5/64" and the top single hole to 1/8". Re seat back and that will now allow the proper CFM of evacuation flow to correct that flaw. Now, the timing chain wear and stretch is caused by the issues that plague all GDI engines, the excessive amount of raw fuel washdown and dilution as well as dealers using syn blend oil that cannot deal with the fuel dilution and high amounts of abrasive particulate matter. I guarantee you still need the timing set replaced, and only a manual intake valve cleaning can clean all the deposits and also the only safe procedure. NO shop in the US does more of these engines than we do, and have for the past 10-12 years. Anything you want to know, just ask.
"Test pipes" coming soon.
So many dealers today won’t go in depth with an engine, it’s replace or go somewhere else. I had one local say a head gasket on an iron block iron head engine needed a new engine.
Poor man's equivalent is to add trans fluid to the oil and run, has anyone heard off that?
yeah Supposedly tranny fluid is all detergent.... I've never done this I've just heard about it second hand
My dad used to do that all the time
I’ve also heard using a mix of cheap oil and diesel fuel too. But I’ve never tried it...
My uncle said Kerosene works. But personally I just used the $4 stp stuff have no idea if it worked or not.
In the 70s and 80s, my dad would run tranny fluid into a sludgy engine, drive 50 miles, change, and refill. We fixed a messed up 1975 ramcharger with a blown timing chain that was blowing smoke that way (also, the new timing chain).
Very interesting and i'm curious to know the end result once you fixed all error codes.
Sounds like what the doctor gives you to clean out lol
Thanks for keeping us entertained with great and plentiful content, JR 👌🏻
I've seen way worse engines when I was a ford tech, and we just fixed what was broken and sent them with a warning
I have seen other people get the camera to focus on shiny objects close up by cupping their hand around the object. Good luck with this one JR!
15:15 AvE: Focus, you fack...
Best comment on the internet 🤣
Would you still get sludge if you regularly changed oil with an oil extractor through dipstick. I've change mine yearly every 3k there's nothing on filter, or on the cap and car runs just fine.
"never fix an Engine"... Tries to fix one right after he tried to fix one. ;)
Once just open the oil pan and have a look at the pickup tube. It will be really helpful. At times they clog up and you won't have the required oil flow or lubricant happening in the engine.
nothing but a commercial
?
Major difference with the camera setting for movie mode! Definitely satisfying to see all the junk that came out of there.
Saw that you opened the hood so as to run cooler during that stint at 3K rpm.... that actually is worse, because it allows air to bypass the radiator as the fan draws it in. With the hood closed the air is forced to go through the radiator into the engine compartment, helping the radiator do its job and keep the engine cool.
Same with Diesel air compressors. If the cowl/hoods are removed, the diesels cant overheat - it's posted all over the manual and labels that say: "Warning... Do not.... (etc)..." We rented it and labels were plastered everywhere to avoid leaving hoods/covers opened.
We've got a lot of that red dirt/clay here in Texas too. Not just the OK/TX border.
Hey! I used to work for BG in KCMO. Fun fact: BG doesn’t stand for anything. It was a way for the company to get a top corner page in the Yellow pages!
Jr id be pulling the pan off and checking oil pick up screen after you've put the cleaner through it. it will give you peace of mind if nothing else. Also the sludge that frees itself has to go somewhere..We had an imported Volvo xc90 come in from the importer with oil pressure dropping off at revs. The car had 120000kms on it and was immaculate. So we put a flush through it and then fresh oil and filter. The importer didn't want to spend any money on it because it cuts into his profit. That fixed it for 3 days and it came back again with the same problem, so this time we did it properly . We took the rocker cover off and it was way worse than your car you have there. You could hardly see the cams. We sprayed degreaser on to the cams and brushed the worst of it off and drained it over night So the next morning we pulled off the pan and scraped out the inch and a half of sludge that hadnt drained out over night. You could see the impression the oil pickup had made in the sludge. It was like asoft grease.we took the oil pick up off and set fire to it with some gas in a steel tray outside on bricks. The oil pressure relief came out too and we cleaned it out and refitted it. It burns the sludge off the screen without damaging it. It turns to carbon and washes off with degreaser. We hired a steam cleaner ( A hot pressure washer) Jacked it up and stood on a step ladder and blasted it from the top down and the from the bottom up. a messy job. It went back together . We put fresh oil in it and a filter in it and the importer gave the new owners a free oil change after 1000km of purchase. it worked. We think some one put in the wrong type of oil at some stage in its life. maybe a heavy diesel rated oil.
Super satisfying watching all of that sludge come out of that engine.
Hey JR, check the OIL PICKUP!! Make sure it's clean and not blocked, and wipe out the pan as well.
Try RVS engine restore, it works great in these situations. It coats any surfaces where there's metal to metal friction and restores tolerances.
Really hoping this goes better for you than the BMW did JR. Looks positive so far!
I had a Toyota pickup that had an oil sludge issue when I got it. Just so you know all those products may work perfectly but you'll still want to pull the oil pan and manually clean the oil pan. I learned the hard way so just trying to save you some grief. I was doing 70 mph on the I-40 and wasn't watching the oil pressure close enough and it lost pressure and before you could say Christmas 3 times as fast as you can all the rod bearings started knocking. You might want to change the rod bearings as a safety provision.
This is gonna be like the 4th time I've said this in these comments today, but an inspection cam is like $50 now. If you think you could have a problem, get one and send it on mission to see. It takes 5 minutes to run one in the drain hole and simply observe the condition of the pan and pick up.
I may have to make a video on this soon because it seems a lot of guys don't know just how cheap these things have become. I didn't until I got one for Christmas last year and thought it was a really luxurious gift so I had to look it up out of guilt. They're likely cheaper than most pan gaskets and pick up tubes.
That gas door has a small plastic hook that you hang the gas cap cable across so it doesn't hang on side of car. Had a GM car a few years before I figured that out.
I had the same exact issue with my aunts cadillac cts 3.6, that has the same exact engine. If your seeing sparkles in the oil filter, thats more likely rod bearing. Our oil sludged up and took out the rod bearings, and me being slick to save money. I just dropped the pan myself, sanded the crankshaft journals smooth and put all new rod bearings, but torqued the problem bearing 10 pounds more and surprisingly that lasted for 2 years, but because they didnt keep up with the oil changes again, they destroyed the engine. This time the mechanic slapped in a new crankshaft, and bearings.
I’d love to see a fluid sample analysis for wear metals in that goop that came out.
I bought a 2011 camaro lt couple years back and the engine had the timing chain recently changed and the car had 4 owners . So in less than a month of purchase the engine went n the dealership said that it had alot of sludge in it. They ended up replacing the engine but its crazy that car had the same problem.
Old school ways is to drain oil fill with kerosene and run up to temp and drain repeat as much is needed then change filter and oil
Could you have purchased another 6 quarts of the rinse oil? Doing that step again to see if the oil comes out any clearer would have been the ticket imo.
I change the oil every 1500 miles in mine. I use K&N oil and filter in mine. I’ve played with it and in my case it likes to run better with the K&N oil and filter.