FIXING The UNFIXABLE Engine In My CHEAP 2011 Chevy Camaro RS *SLUDGE REMOVAL*
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- My $4,000 2011 Chevy Camaro RS has a big problem. The 3.6L LLT V6 is close to timing chain failure and full of sludge. The dealership told the previous owner the 300HP direct injected engine had to be replaced to fix it. I'm going to try and save it with BG Products Dynamic Engine Cleaner.
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Miracle stuff that dislodge sludge fast will put alot of stuff in the strainer. Would drop the pan and change the strainer at least.
Nothing a good PROPANE TORCH couldn't burn and clean, assuming the strainer is the all metal and mesh type.
Yup take off the pan, make sure OIL PICKUP IS CLEAN!!!!
When I ran the BG cleaner at the dealer the BG guy showed us how it dissolves the sludge instead of it just flaking off so it doesn't cause any issues. The 1.8L VW engines sludged all the time from pcv issues and we ran this kit and it worked well. We did have to replace the pickup also but those were common to stop up on the 1.8L so idk if the 3.6L has the same issue?
What is a strainer?
@@UltraGamma25 a half ass filter installed at the end of the oil pump pickup tube submerged in the oil pan to catch "big" chunks(compared to glitter) of metal in case of a "blown engine". There's probably more to it but that's the gist of it.
GM released a TSB for these engines and a "recall" for I believe 2009-2013 models as per the class action. Their solution was to reprogram the ECM for 3k mile oil changes instead of 5k or 6k. It's been a while since I was willing to touch one so you'll want to look that up. The PCV fix would be better but you know, manufacturers want the cheapest solution possible, even if it costs you double in oil changes. Pull those valve covers and the RH will be dark while the LH looks perfect. So much for R&D before release!
I’ve done this myself on what was considered a junk engine without any special products. Just did seven oil changes in one day. Saved a truck that I bought for next to nothing. Kept it for many years of heavy use changing the oil every 2500-3000 miles after the initial cleaning.
With all the detergents in modern oils extra additives are not necessary.
How long did you idle the truck between oil changes? :)
I have read that oil flushes can damage the engine, but all that I have gathered so far is that sometimes the seals are bad and the sludge is actually providing a seal, so you get leaks afterward.
Also, the flush may loosen contaminants from one place, and they just get stuck somewhere else.
3.6 engine has poor venting on one side valve cover that's why it's cleaner on one side.
Timing chains always go bad on these because of that.
This. JR please look up the PCV drill mod on camaro5 forums for these things man.
This motor is a joke period. I feel sorry for all the traverse, Acadia, equinox (last Gen had V6 optional) and all the other models that have this crap engine.
I wouldnt touch this snake oil repair with a 58 foot pole. Good waste of money scam companies appreciate ur business.
Scammed.
@@darrenlub Absolutely!! read comment above
Doing the cats and getting new screens/filters for the solenoids will definitely make this engine run 100% better. I can't wait to see those chains and guides inside the engine!
You have no clue how impatient i've been for this video. You're definitely making your way to the top of my favorite TH-camr list!
Jr a lube tuber now
Me too I've been interested in BG products but I've never seen anything except " sales pitch" videos.
I hope JR does a mod for the PCV. It would help a lot with preventing sludge in future.
He probably most likely will since he always checks the comments and allot of people have pointed it out. He actually listens to his viewers and probably looking into it as we type.
oil is cheap change it at 3000 miles you will be fine
please see my comment above. Is that what you are referring to?
11:40 that before and after shot is truly amazing. I cringe thinking about revving the engine to static 3000 rpm in neutral for such long periods, engines aren't made for that but apparently it's not blowing up either LOL. Good video.
No worries, 3K isn't overly high for most gas engines. My car reaches 3K RPM at only 65 MPH in 5th gear and has been on many road trips at nearly 4K RPM for hours at a time and the engine still has like new oil pressure and compression with no major oil consumption almost 20 years and 280K miles later. Oh, and it sees full throttle and redline at least once every time it gets driven too. Engines are way tougher than most people realize.
It's sad seeing how the previous owner maintained this car as these really are great cars. I have a 2010 SS with a full bolt on and cammed LS3, and it has been the best and most reliable car I have owned. I am sure JR will get this one back in top shape though!
Clearly a female owned this car
@@deanwinchester119 100% lmao
About the main thing I look at is that .
The oil slug that possibly wasn't all removed from oil pan will get sucked up by oil pickup tube and clog up the screen . I would remove the oil pan just so u know 100% that it is clean inside the oil pan in the oil pump screen is not clogged at all .
you have too remove sump to get timing cover off anyway
JR was finally forced to use funnels....
I've been a Technician for 38 years and I can tell you that your chances of success is slim to none. Plugged pick up screen, stuck oil pressure relief valve and or oil filter full of sludge chowder. Completely contaminated VVT oil circuits.
In your opinion what's the best way to go about cleaning it out then ?
@@OGCJ10 There is no good answer. The right way of doing it would be to tear it down clean it then reassemble. But that's not practical Answer for everyone. When you use an engine flush solvent and it starts to react with the sludge it will continue to flake off and make its way into the Pan. At that point your best bet is to simply remove the oil pan clean out as much as you can, clean out our pick up tube to the oil pump. Reassemble and do multiple oil changes.
I love the look of these late model Camaros. The instrument pod absolutely sucks though!
I hope that stuff worked and am looking forward to seeing it opened up and the timing chain change.
I watched with great interest. I have an '11 Chevy Traverse with this engine, 125k on the clock. When I bought it last year, was told the timing chains and tensioners were done, showed paperwork. Car ran well, but I went ahead and dropped the oil and changed the filter. When I looked down the oil fill, saw a LOT of varnish on the cam. I bought a gallon of good ol' Marvel Mystery Oil and put about a quart and a half in. Topped the oil and drove her about 150-200 miles and dropped the oil again. New filter and oil, another quart and a half of Marvel, oil, and drove her another 200 miles. Dropped the oil and it came out MUCH cleaner than before. Rinse and repeat. I've put about 1k of miles on her, powerful and smooth. Almost time for another change now. Looked down the fill hole and was quite surprised that the cam was almost completely clean!!! After the next change, I'll drop the oil at 3k miles and a new filter every time. Good old Marvel to the rescue!! I had no idea about the cleaner you used on the Camaro; might have gone that way instead. Previous owner was lax about oil changes like on your car John. But took great care of all cosmetics and all other mechanicals on this girl! Oil changes are EASY. Can't understand why folks let them slide!!!!! Cheaper than a new engine, as my dad used to say!
I have the exact same car, same year. That's good to hear it's running good for you now. We switched to Royal Purple oil and it seems to be running a lot better. Also put in NGK spark plugs.
An owner giving up on a car because of what a dealer says; obviously the dealer has a conflict of interest. Dealers are notorious for creating work ticket estimates that exceed the value of the car so they can give the "You may as well just trade it" pitch.
No, as a tech in a dealer, we have to be able to perform a repair that we can stand behind warranty wise. No way we can just throw timing chains on a high mileage sludged up engine. If we cant perform a repair that can be warrantied at any dealer in the country, we wont do it and recommend, in our opinion,, the best solution. The customer is ALWAYS welcome to take their vehicle to a independent shop and have a less reliable, cheaper repair performed. Also, the service department could give a shit less what happens in sales. We are paid on flat rate so if we are not doing a repair, we dont get paid. Obviously sending the customer to the sales department would mean I wont make a dime off of it. So no, there is no conflict of interest. Sales and service departments in a dealer are two totally different businesses.
@@colescrustycars That's something a lot of people don't understand. A dealer can't offer a fix that they can't reasonably guarantee will fix the problem. With that amount of sludge, and likely associated damage, a new engine is the correct dealer-level fix. An independent mechanic can offer up cheap fixes if they so choose, hopefully only after getting the customer to sign off on the fact that it might not work or might make things worse, but not a dealer.
@jblyon2 if you watch alex the car guy you whuld see plenty dealerships do repair s that don't fix customer problem then good independent shops fix the problem for real him and south main auto get plenty cars dealership s mess up on
Might want to have J & J Auto Wrecking on the lookout for a low mileage Camaro Engine
In the old days when we had a sledged up engine like that we drained the oil and used kerosene to clean out the engine. Worked in anything that quakerstate had been used in.
Good ol quickerstick. Good to gum up any engine. Pulled down a Ford 351m once that had quakerstate since day one. I had to scrape the gunk out with a serving spoon. Just nasty.
We used to use kerosene also. I am guessing today with all the sensors probably not a good idea.
Quaker State & Pennzoil....the stink alone is terrible
1-K Kerosene $1.43/gallon. Marvel Mystery Oil - Oil Enhancer and Fuel Treatment, 1 Gallon $15.87. Both better than whatever snake oil they sold you.
We use to add a quart of ATF because it has lots of detergent, run it around for a day and flush same as this but cheap
I normally use diesel to remove engine sludge. Before an oil change I put a quart of diesel in the oil and run it an idle for 10 min then drain the oil. Had pretty good results so far.
I heard 50/50 oil And ATF is a good cleaner too.
This is not a good practice at ALL. Knew a guy who destroyed an engine doing that. My rule of thumb, if the additive is not made to be driven with it in the crankcase, I don't want it in my engine.
Many engine flush products are mostly kerosene and ultra low sulphur diesel
I had a local bloke suggest this to me and thought old mate was taking the piss
Use palm oil to flush or mix it with your car oil.
“Never fix an engine” eh, more of a guideline than a rule… Makes for good video… :)
@Sewan & Sawen Creations Oh, I know. I do pretty much all my own repairs, and my dad has been a mechanic since the 60s, or really, the fifties when he started building race cars as a teen, and has rebuilt goodness knows how many motors. I was just poking a little fun after the last video where he said “I broke my own rule. ‘Never fix an engine, just replace it at the beginning’ after the beemer cratered ignominiously. And here we are again… :) But… different engines, different issues…
@Sewan & Sawen Creations Heck, we’ve got an 8.3 diesel in the shop right now that we’re in the diagnosing stages to decide if it’s worth fixing.
Are you over there with a Parrot on your shoulder, Matey!!! Arrgh!!!
I do appreciate all these videos. I had mentioned in another video that i just picked up a 2010 RS with 74k miles on it. And with all you're maintenance videos it'll give me an idea of what I may need to do down the road. Or what I can do to prevent it. I'm a crew chief at an auto center. So I have the mechanical skill. But its good to see stuff first hand before it catches me by surprise. Keep it up dude! Thanks again!
Vent the un pcv'd valve cover. Seems to be the reason alloytec's keep dropping chains.
R.I.P HOLDEN
Amen to that
You fixing and/or flipping cars that regular guys can buy is what we love you for. Keep it up. Your content is great.
WOW! That seemed to do a ton with breaking down that sludge. I've had the B&G cooling system and trans flushes done before with awesome results. Might have this done on my high mileage cars!
I’ve done lots of chain kits on Vz and Ve Commodores. Sludgy engines due to poor ventilation. It pays to drop the sump and manually clean all the sludge out safely rather than flushing. Replace the oil pick up O-ring and strainer while you’re in there 👍
Looks great! I’d pop open the oil pan to see if the sludge went to the pan
A few moments later.... "Looks like we have to put in a new engine"
Nice video, looking forward to the next ones. Just a note though, when adding fuel cleaner, use a clean funnel! When I inspect oil filters, I cut out a section of the media and lay it out, the folds are where the debris will collect. It will be much easier to see and pass a magnet over it to draw out any iron. Works good on iron block diesels but, might not be much help on aluminum gas engines.
I was never really a fan of additives and “snake oils”. But after selling BG products for several years at a dealership, I’d have no hesitation recommending their stuff for their intended purposes.
The Car Ninja definitely needs a TH-cam channel and an IG social media manager...JR?
The car ninja does have a TH-cam channel.
@@jeff7.629 Not really I think it's one of his associate's.
@@projectnerdvana2820 th-cam.com/channels/tEVJt0r0akdubSmLZhqf7A.html
@@aarond23 I know about that channel but I think he shares it with someone
Velocity garage
I use BG Products at work. Mainly on diesel trucks. I sent a link to my BG rep so he can enjoy your journey too.
I wonder what the inside of the oil pan looks like.
He should drop it and clean it.
These engines are known for stretching timing chains from long maintenance intervals/extended run time at low oil level. I experienced this on an Ultra low mileage Enclave I purchased as a daily driver. One owner Vehicle had 48k miles and CEL came on - timing was off and soon after cats clogged and burned due to running rich. Long story short your going to need timing chains, cats, O2 sensors, check cam actuators and clean out the valve covers/change PCV. You will be surprised how finicky these engines are to maintaining the right amount of oil and interval. These do suffer from too much oil vapor getting sucked from the crank case to intake - CHANGE THE HEADCOVER GASKETS - GM updates the design and didn’t tell anyone. Make sure you get the new ones from the dealer! Good luck brotha - enjoying the channel!
Filling the crankcase with diesel and running it also achieves the same results. Excellent flush and cleaner. Very cheap as well.
Can confirm.
Sorry Boomer, it doesn’t. At least not on this much sludge
Naw diesel will not clean sludge. Diesel itself is an oil and not a detergent.
Once you see sludge, build up and an engine. It is an absolute indicator that the damage is already done
You should be able to see the Oil Pressure and Temp on the dashboard if you toggle through the dash display. I can on my 2014
It is from Oklahoma, noticed a David Stanley Chevrolet sticker on the last video.
Good call! 🍻
David Stanley is a joke. Check out aar(auto auction Rebuilds) on his nightmare stories on how he traded in 2 or 3 cars and they sold them but never paid off the leins, randy from aar was getting late payment notifications from his bank on the cars he traded in and they had already resold! When he confronted them they blew him off but yet he still buys from them. He's a fool for that honestly. Great honest guy but he's a idiot for giving them goons more money for his the new ram 2500 and now the new jeep he just bought.
@@B0xlife1 Randy is an idiot and is losing touch with his viewers I think. He barely works on cars and bans anyone who says anything negative about it.
@@kgb4187 Yeah I unsubscribed from that dude months ago... Auto Auction Rebuilds is a joke channel now. WatchJRGo gets my views.
@@corionh4775 I'm pretty sure Randy lost his licence and that's why he can only buy donated/clean title cars. All he does is some basic engine work and then a cheap paint job that looks good on camera before sending it away. All while breathing through his nose. Vehcor and Nobori Auto are great channels to check out.
For a leaking evaporator use red angel system sealer, the 2oz bottle, I ve used it on two cars OMG it works great. 2010 mustang, was able to avoid pulling the dash. You know once you have a repair like that it will never be the same.
Should used sea foam next. Change the timing chain and guides. Change the pvc and idle air control valve just in case and clean the oil pan and magnet.
I use Berriman's B12 Chemtool. It does the same thing. I have bought many lemons in the exact same condition. I could use other solvents, but the price per ounce is about the same, and the b12 works. As for the additive blend that's based on bearing wear.
Wait a minute.......at the very end there you mentioned clogged cats’? That’s a big part of your engine problems.
I was thinking the same thing. That would cause the car to be "slow" as he said it. Or it would feel like it has low power.
That's what happens when you change the oil every 10k previous owner must have never done routine PM's I was surprised with the flush looks like it did a decent job. Hope it works out for you. 👍
Cant wait to see under those valve cover John Ross! If that treatment does well, that will be 300 dollars well spent!
$300 for an engine flush?
You know with that much sludge it may be a good idea to pull the pan and check the oil pickup screen. Just for safety sake.
So many dealers today won’t go in depth with an engine, it’s replace or go somewhere else. I had one local say a head gasket on an iron block iron head engine needed a new engine.
Would you still get sludge if you regularly changed oil with an oil extractor through dipstick. I've change mine yearly every 3k there's nothing on filter, or on the cap and car runs just fine.
Poor man's equivalent is to add trans fluid to the oil and run, has anyone heard off that?
yeah Supposedly tranny fluid is all detergent.... I've never done this I've just heard about it second hand
My dad used to do that all the time
I’ve also heard using a mix of cheap oil and diesel fuel too. But I’ve never tried it...
My uncle said Kerosene works. But personally I just used the $4 stp stuff have no idea if it worked or not.
In the 70s and 80s, my dad would run tranny fluid into a sludgy engine, drive 50 miles, change, and refill. We fixed a messed up 1975 ramcharger with a blown timing chain that was blowing smoke that way (also, the new timing chain).
Hey! I used to work for BG in KCMO. Fun fact: BG doesn’t stand for anything. It was a way for the company to get a top corner page in the Yellow pages!
Why does that look like a can of liquid Swartz, does the car ninja know Yogurt the All-Powerful?
Ore like DARK HELMET was chasing LONE STAR and he went plaid in. The camaro ......where's vespa and DAT??
For those of you who like Space Balls, I only recently discovered that there was an animated show on G4 in 2008-09 or so. I watched it a few weeks ago online and it was actually pretty hilarious, you can even find the episodes on TH-cam. Mel Brooks actually stars in it too and created and produced it. Worth a watch. th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=spaceballs+animated+series
Now I gotta watch that movie
"Comb the Desert"
Jr id be pulling the pan off and checking oil pick up screen after you've put the cleaner through it. it will give you peace of mind if nothing else. Also the sludge that frees itself has to go somewhere..We had an imported Volvo xc90 come in from the importer with oil pressure dropping off at revs. The car had 120000kms on it and was immaculate. So we put a flush through it and then fresh oil and filter. The importer didn't want to spend any money on it because it cuts into his profit. That fixed it for 3 days and it came back again with the same problem, so this time we did it properly . We took the rocker cover off and it was way worse than your car you have there. You could hardly see the cams. We sprayed degreaser on to the cams and brushed the worst of it off and drained it over night So the next morning we pulled off the pan and scraped out the inch and a half of sludge that hadnt drained out over night. You could see the impression the oil pickup had made in the sludge. It was like asoft grease.we took the oil pick up off and set fire to it with some gas in a steel tray outside on bricks. The oil pressure relief came out too and we cleaned it out and refitted it. It burns the sludge off the screen without damaging it. It turns to carbon and washes off with degreaser. We hired a steam cleaner ( A hot pressure washer) Jacked it up and stood on a step ladder and blasted it from the top down and the from the bottom up. a messy job. It went back together . We put fresh oil in it and a filter in it and the importer gave the new owners a free oil change after 1000km of purchase. it worked. We think some one put in the wrong type of oil at some stage in its life. maybe a heavy diesel rated oil.
Saw that you opened the hood so as to run cooler during that stint at 3K rpm.... that actually is worse, because it allows air to bypass the radiator as the fan draws it in. With the hood closed the air is forced to go through the radiator into the engine compartment, helping the radiator do its job and keep the engine cool.
Same with Diesel air compressors. If the cowl/hoods are removed, the diesels cant overheat - it's posted all over the manual and labels that say: "Warning... Do not.... (etc)..." We rented it and labels were plastered everywhere to avoid leaving hoods/covers opened.
15:15 AvE: Focus, you fack...
Best comment on the internet 🤣
Very interesting and i'm curious to know the end result once you fixed all error codes.
"Test pipes" coming soon.
Could you have purchased another 6 quarts of the rinse oil? Doing that step again to see if the oil comes out any clearer would have been the ticket imo.
well I'm changing my oil more often
Good call! 🍻
on my jeep wrangler i usually change my oil every 3 months or 3000 miles and if the 3 months are up and i'm under 3000 I still change it regardless. I also drive very short trips
They say to stretch out the oil change interval mainly to make it seem like the newer engines are so much more reliable and better built they don't need their oil changed as often. I would think unless you have a super filter you would still want to change it out every 3k or so. I have always changed my oil and filter every 3k give or take. It's still one of the cheapest things you can do for your car to make it live longer. The newer cars have a oil change light that sometimes tests the quality of the oil to tell you when it's gone away and needs to be changed. Pretty sure if oil stays clean you could run it till the additives go away and just add what it needs but most cars don't filter well enough to get away with that, especially once they start wearing out.
@@69Dartman my jeep is 20 years old and it has no oil change light. You're absolutely right about changing the oil every 3k miles I've done that with every car i had and they've lasted til i would trade them in for a different one and they were still running great when i did. I'm also sticking to the older cars cause 1st i can't afford them and second i'm a simple man i really don't need and the fancy stuff that comes with the newer cars.
@ I bought my Dart in 79 with 63k on it and got my license in it eventually. I still own it and it has 175k now on the original 318. I have retired it and am driving my lil sisters old 95 neon she bought new after I told her what options to get. It has 189k on it now and still runs fine. I got it with 155k and have replaced the water pump and timing belt, front pads and rotors, plugs, and rear main in that time from 05 to now.
That gas door has a small plastic hook that you hang the gas cap cable across so it doesn't hang on side of car. Had a GM car a few years before I figured that out.
Sounds like what the doctor gives you to clean out lol
Major difference with the camera setting for movie mode! Definitely satisfying to see all the junk that came out of there.
BG is good stuff!!
Auto Auction Rebuilds works good for your half assed repairs
@@TechOut 👀👀
Best engine flush in the world I've seen is shell rotella t4. It freed the rings on my lawnmower that was a 2 quart per mow mosquito fogging unit, doesn't burn a drop now, it cleaned the sludge out of my 900hr rental jetski that Mobil 1 wouldn't touch, I gained near 5mph. It's cheap, so if I have an abused engine, I do 3 or 4 changes over the course of a few hundred miles or 10ish hours of runtime. First few changes it'll look black as diesel oil (convenient since it is diesel oil, that's why it has such strong detergents and particle suspension properties) and eventually it stops turning as black, then you know it's good. Since I'm in a hot environment I run 15w40 in literally everything I own.
I have used the 5min. Motor Flush product from Gunk/Motor Medic in crappy car engines for years now, with great success. They even have a formula for turbocharged/diesel engines as well.
I had the same exact issue with my aunts cadillac cts 3.6, that has the same exact engine. If your seeing sparkles in the oil filter, thats more likely rod bearing. Our oil sludged up and took out the rod bearings, and me being slick to save money. I just dropped the pan myself, sanded the crankshaft journals smooth and put all new rod bearings, but torqued the problem bearing 10 pounds more and surprisingly that lasted for 2 years, but because they didnt keep up with the oil changes again, they destroyed the engine. This time the mechanic slapped in a new crankshaft, and bearings.
GM had some of the world's best V6s in the 80s and 90s, GNX, Typhoon, Syclone. Can't forget to mention every 4.3 and 3.8 ever made. WTF happened since then? Should have made an ls based v6 for the new standard.
Name one overhead cam engine GM has ever made that didn't eat timing chains or leak oil all over the place? I can't think of a single one.
Really hoping this goes better for you than the BMW did JR. Looks positive so far!
If your going to do this to any car I'd suggest using a drill to spin the oil pump instead of running the motor. Theres no heat , no risk of combustion, and just safer.
We've got a lot of that red dirt/clay here in Texas too. Not just the OK/TX border.
I've seen way worse engines when I was a ford tech, and we just fixed what was broken and sent them with a warning
I change the oil every 1500 miles in mine. I use K&N oil and filter in mine. I’ve played with it and in my case it likes to run better with the K&N oil and filter.
Boy that engine is loud.
Super satisfying watching all of that sludge come out of that engine.
nothing but a commercial
?
Run Royal Purple in it. I was a amazed at how much it helped my sisters Camry. Yes. Even royal purple said that we would have to change the oil and filter after 500 miles if engine was bad. After 500 miles the oil came out black as coal we changed the oil 2 more times at 1k mile intervals finally on the 4th oil change it was staying purple and could last 3k miles.
I had a Toyota pickup that had an oil sludge issue when I got it. Just so you know all those products may work perfectly but you'll still want to pull the oil pan and manually clean the oil pan. I learned the hard way so just trying to save you some grief. I was doing 70 mph on the I-40 and wasn't watching the oil pressure close enough and it lost pressure and before you could say Christmas 3 times as fast as you can all the rod bearings started knocking. You might want to change the rod bearings as a safety provision.
This is gonna be like the 4th time I've said this in these comments today, but an inspection cam is like $50 now. If you think you could have a problem, get one and send it on mission to see. It takes 5 minutes to run one in the drain hole and simply observe the condition of the pan and pick up.
I may have to make a video on this soon because it seems a lot of guys don't know just how cheap these things have become. I didn't until I got one for Christmas last year and thought it was a really luxurious gift so I had to look it up out of guilt. They're likely cheaper than most pan gaskets and pick up tubes.
Would you please plug in the oil pressure sensor. The connector hanging by the oil filter is driving me nuts.
What does pouring that into the fuel tank do? There is no part of the engine that can benefit as fuel does not touch the backsides of the valves or any other part of the engine internals to benefit. Also, never do a engine running solvent based cleaning on ANY GDI engine as while most of the hard crystalline coking deposits will be expelled out the exhaust, some is always pushed between the pistons and cylinder walls causing scouring we see when we tear these down to rebuild. And for the 2008-2012 (any with the black plastic valve covers), needs the PCV barb drill mod performed. Remove the barb located on the rear of the passenger side valve cover. Grasp base and twist while pulling straight up and drill bottom 2 holes to 5/64" and the top single hole to 1/8". Re seat back and that will now allow the proper CFM of evacuation flow to correct that flaw. Now, the timing chain wear and stretch is caused by the issues that plague all GDI engines, the excessive amount of raw fuel washdown and dilution as well as dealers using syn blend oil that cannot deal with the fuel dilution and high amounts of abrasive particulate matter. I guarantee you still need the timing set replaced, and only a manual intake valve cleaning can clean all the deposits and also the only safe procedure. NO shop in the US does more of these engines than we do, and have for the past 10-12 years. Anything you want to know, just ask.
Thanks for keeping us entertained with great and plentiful content, JR 👌🏻
Hey JR, check the OIL PICKUP!! Make sure it's clean and not blocked, and wipe out the pan as well.
My wife has a 2009 pontiac g8 with I think the same engine. The check engine lite with code for timing chains.... has been on for 50,000 of it’s 100,000 mile life and its still kicking... probably blow up tomorrow.
I bought a 2011 camaro lt couple years back and the engine had the timing chain recently changed and the car had 4 owners . So in less than a month of purchase the engine went n the dealership said that it had alot of sludge in it. They ended up replacing the engine but its crazy that car had the same problem.
I had sludge problem with my used 2004 4.2L Buick Rainier Engine. ( same as trailblazer and Envoy and known issue with those) I used a total of 2 gallons of Parts cleaner and let sit, to dissolve a clogged oil pickup screen. Then ran 50/50 mix of cheap oil and cleaner to clean the engine itself. I have the carfax, it got oil changes every 4-5K miles it's whole life (155K ) but regular oil sludges. I switched to Synthetic and didn't have any problems and then sold it. My 2007 Elantra has 120K miles and I went to synthetic at 40K miles with it, the inside still looks brand new. ( easy to pull valve cover off )
I spent about $150-170 to do the Rainier for the Parts cleaner and oil/filters. I pulled the VVT on it after and it was very clean as well. Clean enough I ended up NOT replacing it. I hope this works out for you. I loved the F-Body cars and owned several of them. I do not like these models as seeing out of them is bad but I hope you can make some money off it.
I have seen other people get the camera to focus on shiny objects close up by cupping their hand around the object. Good luck with this one JR!
Should have gotten the Microguard filters at O'Reilly, much cheaper than the Wix or Wix XP but yet still made by them.
that engine is actually somewhere around 323 hp from the factory. The 2011s were rated at 312 hp then they revised the numbers with no changes to the engine for the 2012 with 323 HP. GM said they underestimated the hp for the 2011
He should probably add a super charger to it ....
Car wizard had a gunked up 5.4 triton a while ago. I wonder if this stuff could save one of those motors. Wizard put a whole new motor in it.
Faulty pcv usually causes the sludge problem. Especially on one side. And of course lack of maintenance
The good news for the timing chain repair is that this vehicle is RWD. The FWD setups are a nightmare to do. If that's the original timing set, that's pretty good for that engine. Make sure you install an aftermarket set from Cloyes. Their parts are high quality. I expect that you'll find plenty of carbon on the intake values as well.
That is likely what's causing the rough idle.
NOT having any type of scope tool......I would take an each cylinder compression test. Based on all you said I am guessing the valve(s), only stuck intermittently when going up the hil? So THAT I'd never be able to check for.
I like that it actually has a true dual exhaust. My Genesis coupe connects to a single tube in the middle :(
Great vid. In older engines I desludge them by adding a full liter (quart) of diesel fuel
I have a co-worker with a Traverse with this engine. The mechanic told them synthetic only and change the oil every 3000.
That v6 running at 3000 rpm sounds like it's gonna launch the rods to mars
The left bank is gets gunked up because of the pcv valve which is built into the left bank. Drill the holes out bigger
I borrowed a friends Saab and it had bad cat codes and I used a product that your local auto parts store carries called Cataclean by Mr Gasket and it fixed all the cat problems! Maybe give that a try? It was like $22 a bottle or something like that.
The 5th gen chassis is an aussie design, the zeta platform was also used for the commodore
Why don't you get an ovglove for the handling of hot engine parts.
Those before pics look better than any 1.8t VW/Audi engine I've ever seen.
Them 3.6 alloytechs have an issue with sludge on 1 side because of the ventilation system Wich causes timing chain issues I know because of the amount of alloytechs in the commodores here in austrailia
40 years ago we did that clean out thing by putting in a quart of ATF with oil, drive for 15 minutes then change the oil and filter.
I spent 9 years in car dealerships in the '60s and 70's. In my opinion the BG products worked as good as many of the supplements available and better than some. The problem was having mechanics utilize the products while they worked on the owners cars and obtaining a premium from BG for doing so. Each can contained a red or green plastic washer that the mechanic redeemed for cash. This more often than not was done without obtaining the owners permission. Perhaps its done differently now. At least I hope so.
Best way to test what chemical to use is leave some used oil in a few separate containers and let it age and sludge, then add said chemicals and shake. And see how it will dissolve the oil.