I found this channel because of the OG himself - Eric O - and now I get to enjoy two OGs plying their trade and putting the parts changers and snake-oil salesman to shame. Keep up the great work South Main and Royalty Auto.
I think the BG flush kit is intended for oil consumption due to stuck rings. The only way to even start to clean sludge deposits that thick is to scrape out as much as possible. Get a pail of diesel fuel and go at it with a brush. Do a dump and fill with new filter, run the engine up to temp, dump and fill again with a new filter. Run the vehicle for a week and change the oil again. It will buy you some time while shopping for a low mileage replacement engine.
@@GNX157 It would then be difficult to see how well the BG flush did, so it was a good way to test. But yes, absolutely wipe it out manually of you're trying to remove as much sludge as possible.
Valvoline Restore and Protect is what you are thinking about. I am on my second oil change with it in my 2010 Sierra 5.3 with just under 120k mi. I bought it used, from the 2nd owner. I don't know how the original owner changed the oil, but I do know it was on a ranch in West Texas, where it is dusty as all get out. The truck had been in a fender bender and was fixed, but the windshield and headlights were scratched the F up so bad I had to get a new windshield and buff out the headlights. The girl I bought it from only had it a few months and said she changed the oil once when she got it, but only drove it for about 1500 miles before she sold it to me. I have been changing the oil on the 3k mi mark since I bought it, and as soon as Valvoline came out with that R&P, I bought it and have been using it. I have noticed a smoother idle about 2500 miles into the first go 'round with it. I'll keep you informed after the third change is complete. Unfortunately I did not do a bore scope before I started, but I will do one on the next change and at the end of it.
Just found your channel and subscibed. The root of the problem is the lack of maintenance and I would never use a engine flush. I have a 1998 Chevy Silverado Z71 single cab long box with the 5.7. Beautiful truck with 230,000 miles and not driven in the winter. I change the oil between 3000 and 3500 miles. You pull out the dipstick and the oil is clear Amber color. I replaced the valve cover gaskets and the valve train looked like new with no sludge. I'm the second owner. The original owner babied this truck. I got lucky. I also baby it. I run the same oil he did. Mobile 1 10/40. He gave me all maintenance records. This gentleman was very meticulous. I would never sell this truck. Bottom Line is change your oil. I've been working on cars for 45 years. I'm not a licensed but I know alot about cars. Self taught. Great channel 👍
Oil and filters are much less expensive than an engine flush. I like to do oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles or so, like the previous poster, and have had no problems running vehicles well over 100,000 miles. I like to have my mechanic look at my vehicles several times a year, to prevent little problems from becoming big problems. Frequent oil changes are cheap insurance!
R&P won't do anything for sludge. Go over to BITOG forums. Several tests have been done there. It DOES, however, seem to clean pistons/rings, which is pretty cool.
Followed the manufacturers intervals to a Tee! Which is why I always say 5,000 miles, even sooner if you are in traffic often and idling at the kids soccer game with the AC on. I've tried this a couple dozen or so times and it seems to work 1 out of 3 or so. They usually end up back making noise within a month or two. Hope this one works out for the customers sake. These kits are one of the better ones believe it or not. Edit: Trans fluid works well.
In the late 90s I knew of 3 guys who ran some sort or "engine cleaner" in their vehicles. All had to have engines replaced within a 6 month period. This scared me away from this type of thing ever since. That said great video! Throughly enjoyed it.
Chemical sludge removal is best not rushed. Dislodging large debris could clog something. I had great luck removing sludge by just running Pennzoil/Quaker State synthetic oils in my 4Runner. I bought it with serious sludge, enough to clog the PCV valve and blow out the crank seal. Blue smoke on startup too. You could see dissolved sludge on the dipstick immediately with the mentioned products. The Valvoline R&P is likely great too, but back then I’d say Shell products had the best additive packages for sludge removal.
That's the way to do it, slow and gentle. Change the oil when it gets dark.. I did it on my truck (that I horribly neglected).. 400 miles until the first oil change, then it went 600, then 800, then 1200, then 1400.. before the oil started getting dark enough for me to be uncomfortable.. Doing the change after 1400 miles, and I could look down into the valve cover and see shiny(ish) metal, stained of course, but I could actually see metal.
In the last 4 to 6 months I replaced valve cover gaskets on both my 99 Express 5.7 149,700 miles and 02 Envoy ,just turned 250k. Valve train is spotless. Change oil every 3k in Express( hunting, fishing, camping rig) and 3k or once a year in Envoy as I live in city. If I don't I get those actuator codes. Change the fluids and filters. Dirt is the enemy of moving parts. I was taught that in 68 in shop class and practiced it for 40 years as a tech. Change your oil/fluids and change filters. Best PM .
The Land Rover pictured was obviously run on petroleum based oil, not synthetic. Coking is common with petroleum based oils, especially the cheeper brands. New engines run hotter than old engines (160f VS 195f), therefore, petroleum based oils will coke at the higher operating temps. Long Idling will contribute to the coking, as will short trips.
@@tjhessmon4327 Engines have always ran between 195-220 degrees under normal operation. You make the mistake of thinking a thermostat dictates operating temp.. it doesn't.
@12:30 I'm not surprise the oil sludge didn't come off the cams, the engine components that are lubricated from oil splashing don't get cleaned by the Dynamic Oil cleaner as well; the chain cover and engine bottom will look great.
Ive done many of these BG Dynamic services with great results desludging motors. The only one I had mixed results on was a ford 5.4 3v, inside the timing cover was spotless however the oil ports to the heads are so small So it didn’t do a thorough job getting everything on the valvetrain, but I was really happy with the results inside the timing components. All other vehicles were VERY clean. In terms of restored ring function… absolutely a home run product
Recently I replaced my PCV on my Audi A5. With the PCV take out. I would see the valve train inside and it is perfectly clean. No sludge no stain. The metals are still silver in color. My car has done 100000 miles in less than 5 years! And I do 5000 miles oil change intervals. At this rate. I think the engine will last forever
First, this is Not Sludge, it oil coking. Second, We old mechanics used to treat engines like this with Kerosine or JP5, mixed with the oil, run for 20 to 30 min, until its mostly gone. .. That said, the process started with scraping away the coking (physically), then rinsing the top end with Kerosine or JP5, with the oil pan drain open. Most engines the were OHV, so we did the Valley as well. The procedure usually included removing and cleaning the Valve rockers, push rods and lifters and cleaning them individually, as well as changing the valve stem seals ( used compressed air to hold the valves closed). .. Once the components were cleaned, we reassembled the components, then ran 3 Kerosine mixes through the engine (at idle), until we observed clean oil. (Qt kerosine or JP5 to Remainder of fill oil). JP5 works best, but its more expensive. .... Because cheep petrol based oil in those days would easily coke, we performed this service regularly. This is not something mechanics observe today, as most vehicles are serviced with synthetic oil, which has a much higher coking and boron plate temperature. Also... check the EGR and PCV systems on this Land Rover.
Kerosene is very effective cleaner mixed with cheap oil - 50/50 mix . It is worth try or alternatively some cheap auto transmission oils which also tend to clean rather well but mix in a fair proportion of oil with them- say 50 / 50. Run for half an hour then leave it then run again for the same time but don't drive it at all. Just engine runs at 2,000 rpm. Then drain it again.
My dads method of reviving sludgy engines: Synthetic oil changes at 1k and filter changes every 500 miles. He did this until the detergents in the oil did it job, sometimes up to 20 times. Low and slow, but you could tell when the engine was healed again. Lot of salvaged cars from Craiglist back in the day.
I had good results using BG EPR on older Toyotas. The 2003 Camry 2AZFE with 110,000 miles had heavy smoking on cold start for a very long time, maybe15 years. It never consumed excessive oil. The smoking has stopped completely for over a year. The 2006 Highlander 2AZFE was consuming approximately a quart in 5,000 miles at 185,000 miles. Excess black deposits were present in the drained oil. The consumption was reduced by half and the engine runs even smoother than new at 200,000 miles. I ran it through my 2017 Tacoma 2GRFKS at 80,000 miles with no change and little or no excess dirt in the drained oil. All these vehicles get 5,000 mile OCIs. The two older engines received valve cover gaskets and did not have sludge present on the valve train components.
I have fixed over 40 vehicles with the BG EPR. The Dynamic kit I used once after the EPR did not fix a heavily sludged engine. From what I understand the Dynamic kit is equivalent to two cans of EPR in 30w oil. It did fix the problem. The problems I have fixed are mostly GM 5.3/6.0/6.2 oil pressure and oil burning. I fixed a 2000's Mazda Protege with severe oil burning. With the EPR I poor it into the existing oil and run it for 30 minutes no more than 1500 rpm. Let it sit for 2-4 hours then run it for another 30 minutes and immediately drain it. I wonder if that engine has an oiling problem to the top end?
Did this once with a Ford V6. It had about half an inch of drab/sludge in the oil pan. Always remove as much sludge by hand as possible, so remove the oilpan and use a brush and some diesel fuel to clean. Pull ghe pan and let it drip.Than run it with an engine flush/ sludge remover. Than run it with normal oil with half a liter of ATF added to it for at least 200 miles. Old school mechanics' trick. ATF has great detergents in it. Ended up with a clean engine. Still there's always the risk of a chunk dislodging and blocking a passage somewhere. It's a risk you must be willing to take. The engine will be toast anyhow if you leave it like this. Adapt your oil change intervals to your driving style/ conditions.
I've had good results with cleaner, QMI, add 0.5 liter, run for 15 min, change oil as normal. -90's diesel, after cleaning I noticed it took much longer for the new oil to turn black. Did not remove rocker-cover to inspect. So my take on it now is that in your case the sludge is to hard and thick for cleaning to do much. I do believe in useing a cleaner as "maintenance" once and a while. New oil cleans, sure, that's why it turns black pretty quick. But it doesn't clean enough, or able to suspend enough sludge, and that's when it's able to build up such as in your example..
That sludge was well on the way to becoming tar. Needed a "manual evacuation" when rocker cover off. Saw this on a GF's car that was used for commuting a short distance, never got warmed up. The old Ford push rod engine had pounds of thick gunk in the rockers and springs. Took an age to clean it out with diesel,scrapers and stiff brushes. Advised her to do oil changes more often. Did she listen? Ha ha!
Best choice switch to a good oil like Redline, Amsoil or HPL. Use them to clean out the engine with short OCIs, to clean that much gunk out safely, its going to take time.
Toyota recommends 10k oil changes on my new 2024 2.4T 4 banger Tacoma. I just had the dealership perform a “break in now complete” factory oil change at 1k miles. I plan on changing the oil and filter every 5k miles.
When I seen how much sludge was there. I pretty much knew what the outcome would be. BG can help on smaller build ups. But once it cakes and crusts, I haven't found anything that works. Thank you for the honest review. We need more of these type reviews. Unbiased and let the viewer (us) decide for ourselves.
Around 1993, I had a 1989 Jeep with a 4.0. I used Valvoline and Purolator filters. I got it with 20K on it. I did oil changes religiously at 3K miles. When I pulled the valve cover due to leaking at 90K, I was shocked to see sludge up to the top of the rocker arms. Last time I used Valvoline. Still doing 3K changes, each time I added an aftermarket detergent additive. Got to 150K before I got rid of it. Still do not use Valvoline to this day. Mostly Mobil 1 full Synthetic at 4 to 5K. I do use Quaker State Full Synthetic on cars that I had oil seepage on with great results (2 cars, 2 successes).
Thans for demo - sad to see it failed here (but good to know it helped a Civic's stuck rings). I wonder if the ATS kit (one oil treatmet, one gas treatment used together) would do any better?
its funny you mention doing this on a Kia. Ray over and Rainman Ray's Repairs did this very same procedure on a Kia with the horrible GDI engine that always starts burning oil. Still waiting on an update from him on that vehicle.
I have over the years cleaned out many engines without damage that you could hardly see the rockerarms before than after many oil changes. A quart of automatic transmission fluid with every oil change.than change the oil as soon as it starts to turn brown and over a year time.
Great video ! Don't be disapointed by the limited result : it's very informative for a viewer like me. It means that once you have sludge in you engine, cleaning it is a nightmare. You also have the risk of damaging the engine with the sludge debrits when they change places. So the best solution is avoiding this situation.
Watch JR GO did it on his Camaro and he had better results. I'd be very interested, as a case study, to see if the client and you guys use Valvoline Restore and Protect to see if that does anything in the next few thousand miles.
Great review. Would be amazing if you could make a similar video on kerosene and diesel flush. Those seem to be popular ways of cleaning engine sludge, so would be interesting to see what it looks like under valve cover.
We used to see a lot of sludge issues on BMW and the only method that worked to get it clean was 3k interval and replace half a liter with ATF for the next 15k miles
I had a 2017 Audi Q7 that didn’t have a sludge issue but was burning a quart of oil every 1000 miles. The car had 117k miles on it. The BG cleaner did cut the oil burning in half and also got rid of a misfire and a low CAT efficiency issue.
I’ve used BG for probably 35 years, for the most part it’s one of the better products I’ve tried over 41 years. Do they still include the little plastic chip in the MOA. And yes I agree with you Sherwood,3000 RPM for 45 minutes (I would be a little nervous). Again another great video thanks again from Pismo Beach California.
this why its SOOOOOOOOOOO important to change your oil either by a shop or yourself because this can happen me myself i do my own oil changes every 6k use supertech oil and my car good its no excuse to neglect cheap simple maintenance 💯💯
Never had any luck with sludge cleaners except for way back in the 70s my mentor would mix kerosene with the oil and run it in the engine, drain and fill it with fresh and it actually did a decent job. Don't know ow if I would try that in today's engines though
I guess I am old school. Intervals 5K miles, 250 hours, 3 months. Which ever occur first. With all the Fleet vehicles never had an issue. If cleaning was a necessary procedure I used diesel fuel. Fill the engine to the top, let set for a few hours then drain. Add oil & run for 15 minutes, then drain. All good at that point. I will say none of our engines were as bad as this one illustrated. Proper maintenance is the key!!!
We all have our opinions. The owner of that vehicle probably been driving it like miss daisy all the time- probably in a ton of daily traffic. A good run on the highway/motorway for 5-10miles at least 2x a week (like an italian tune up), shouldn't let any engine have that much build up. Either save and spend some extra money on fuel consumption and fuel injector cleaners to negate sludge and carb deposits instead of cleaners or possibly shell out more money to fix a diarrhea oil filled engine like that. I am as always impressed watching vids from this channel that never ceases to amaze me.
Valvoline Restore & Protect is called, the oil that valvoline say that u need about 4 oil services to clean all the gunk in the engine and free up the piston rings from deposits so u could possibly correct excessive blow-by issues or oil consumption issues.
I started flushing my engine with a quart of diesel at oil changes on my N62TU motor at 150000 miles. My oil changes were black as ink for the next several oil changes. Oil consumption dropped from 1 quart every thousand to 1 between 7000 mile oil changes. The top end power is like brand new and my oil changes are only slightly brown now. My valve guide seals are original also. I currently have 195000 miles now. The intake no longer has oil residue from blowby and the engine barely makes any noise at idle.
It probably got the lower engine sparkly clean. You need something that you leave in there while you drive around for a while to clean the valvetrain in my experience. Gunk made one like that and I left it in a friend's sludgy engine for a week. It even cleaned the inside of the oil cap.
When you’ve got that much sludge there’s no magic bullet I guess. Anything strong enough to dissolve all that sludge would probably eat all the seals and damage the aluminum. The flush probably gets saturated by sludge and then can’t pick up any more. I would first scoop as much out with a plastic scoop or suction thing as possible. Or use a couple of cans of carburetor cleaner and spray it all out and spray down into the oil passages and take off the oil pan and do the same with the bottom end. Fill up the engine with diesel and turn it over by hand a bunch of times. Dump it out and fill it with cheap oil and turn it over by hand a bunch of times to try and get an oil film on the bearings. Dump it out. Then flush it.
I’ve used that BG on 4 different vehicles and it’s been excellent for me. However, that vehicle you have has some serious neglect and nothing but a serious scrubbing will get that off! BG eliminated oil consumption on 3 vehicles and 1 was for preventative measures. You MUST retest!
I thought it would do more as well. No where near worth it but still something. But it looks like it didn't do anything Thank you for testing and sharing
I'm changing out my 4runner "lifetime" ATF tomorrow. Toyota/Lexus is crazy. I'm sure under perfect conditions 10k oil change are okay, but almost no one is operating their vehicle under ideal conditions.
Do not go over 5,000 on your gasoline engine oil, I don't care what any TH-cam channel or manufacturer tells you. If you do more city driving than highway, change it even sooner.
I go 5000 miles oil change o-20 synthetic on my 2011 lexus is250 awd and the same on daughters 2015 lexus gs350 f sport awd. 3000 on my 2006 subaru sti pita car
Thank you for the great video I am disappointed it didn't work well as I have a vehicle coming this weekend with sludge and I was hoping this kit would clean it out.
I’ve done this service on engines that were worse than that and they came out looking brand new with only some small deposits left in the corners of the head. I’m surprised it didn’t do a better job.
That product may work as preventative maintenance for customers that are always too late doing their service interval oil changes. Once an engine gets that much sludge , no such thing as a mechanic in a bottle IMO. Thanks for the video fellas. Any chance you folks can do a before and after video on valve cleaning on a GDI engine with chemicals and without pulling intake manifolds??? I think that would be cool. Keep the videos coming my friends..👍👍👍👍👍
Royal Purple has a cleaning additive in their oil which overtime cleans out/off any sludge or carbon buildup which I've noticed since I've been using it in my 2009 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor for the past year and a half.
I've watched several videos about this stuff and everyone who used it swear by it. One video was done on a Camero and it cleaned it right up. It was sludged up pretty good, too.
I had a Jag Epace on lease (same engine) . The dealer refused to change the engine oil for the first 2.5 years and eventually it was like treacle. The car was actually very reliable for 5 years, but I can't help thinking that it's longevity has been compromised.
Had a 87 Sentra always used Mobil one oil and adjusted the valves every 100K and it was always clean like new when I pulled the valve cover. I sold it at 340K It was using a quart at that time every 5K. Three years later it passed me on the expressway no oil smoke, but fenders flapping in the breeze. Lol .Oh I used 5K oil change interval's.
Interesting... we've used that BG kit a few times and it's worked a lot better for us, in some cases it cleans up all the varnish. The ones that still had a large amount of deposits like in this example, it was a lot softer than before, and at the next oil change it was cleaner again
Any problems regarding sludge I always added half a litre of automatic transmission fluid to the existing oil and drove the car for 50 miles. the mild detergents in the fluid clean out the gunk without causing any damage to the engine. it can also help free up sticking piston rings and hydraulic lifters. once the car has been driven for a while drain the oil fit a new filter and refill with fresh oil.
Interesting video. I’m thinking that amount of sludge has the oil galleys at the top of the engine partially blocked. Which would could might prevent some of the oil spraying the top of the engine. Which can limit the effectiveness of the product in the short term
Nice!! Always wanted to see the components after these services. I’d like to think there’s a small difference but…I’m not completely impressed. I wish you guys had tried the 505 CRO from ATS for this. Maybe soon?
Yes. Will be clean. But I use ATS Chemical CRO 505 to flush. Been a BG fan a long time but CRO 505 is a superior product. Try it. $60 for the flush and fuel cleaner.
Believe it or not Range Rover was telling customers up until fairly recently to do oil changes at 20,000 mile intervals! But changed it recently to 10K. We have a new 2024 Range Rover and after doing a break in up to around 1K miles, I'm planning on doing the first oil change right around 3500 miles, and then every 5k-7.5K miles after.
Now try the Valvoline restore and protect on that same vehicle. Do the first oil change and then when it comes in, take it off check results and do that three times. I believe that vehicle would be a perfect candidate.
I use 50% oil and 50% diesel fuel in the crankcase to clean sludge. Run the engine for 20 minutes and repeat as required. AFT in the oil helps to clean sludge as well but diesel is cheaper.
Us old crows would use these types of mixes to clean out, cheep oil coking in the 1980s-90s. Once Synthetics started to be used, these severe coking issues disappeared.
What you drained out with the bg stuff wasn't thick with the sludge that should have been emulsified in it. It was too thin and watery meaning not much was removed from the engine and kept in the oil with the dispersion additives. You need to run a high detergent and dispersent blend of oil flush
Watch JR Go did a Chevy Camaro and a Dodge Dart with BG with good results and ford boss me also. Depends of the severity of sludge probably. Ecoboost engines are very tough on oil never exceed 3000 miles oci with full synthetic oil. They are notorious for carbon build up and sludge. Royal Purple and Valvoline restore and protect are the two best to help cleaning the engine. Thanks for sharing.
What about just doing seafoam 100 miles before every oil change? My main question is how does an engine that new sludge up that bad with regular oil changes?
I worked at a quick lube and got in trouble because I drained the engines too long. They wanted to drain for a minute. Never let the employees let it drain out. Leave more oil in the engine so they can sell you the full oil amount and use less
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That's the most honest BG engine flush video I've seen on TH-cam ... thank you guys ... Kind Regards Andy
At the 8 min mark I had to pause and agree with Eric..... I am skeptical too. Now carry on gentlemen.
HAhah us Eric's need to stick together. We both knew it was wishful thinking. The BG guy is not gonna be happy with this video 😂
There goes the neighborhood! 🤣
I found this channel because of the OG himself - Eric O - and now I get to enjoy two OGs plying their trade and putting the parts changers and snake-oil salesman to shame. Keep up the great work South Main and Royalty Auto.
What about the crud sucked into the oil pickup screen??
The crud buster will actually clean the screen too. The danger is choking up the filter and killing oil flow. Gotta be real careful.
BG Wallet Flush.
Yep.
Actually, that's only partially true. It seems it does help some with oil consumption.
BH kit at $339 is an expensive experiment. Too bad it didn't work but you saved me $339 👍
You're honest in your test!!!!!! Thanks! You built trust with me.
I think the BG flush kit is intended for oil consumption due to stuck rings. The only way to even start to clean sludge deposits that thick is to scrape out as much as possible. Get a pail of diesel fuel and go at it with a brush. Do a dump and fill with new filter, run the engine up to temp, dump and fill again with a new filter. Run the vehicle for a week and change the oil again. It will buy you some time while shopping for a low mileage replacement engine.
Or not. As some weird collective tolerance is breached and the mechanical magical mumbo jumbo that held the jalopy together is exorcised.
If the valve cover was off already, I’d at least block the returns and manually wipe out as much sludge as possible first.
welll dont have to woory about this why becuase i have 3 toyota and all 3 get an oil change around 1 thousand miles 1k
@@GNX157 It would then be difficult to see how well the BG flush did, so it was a good way to test. But yes, absolutely wipe it out manually of you're trying to remove as much sludge as possible.
Just put a cup of diesel in the oil and drive it 30 mins at a time with 2 or 3 filter changes until it comes out clean. Check with a filter cutter.
Valvoline Restore and Protect is what you are thinking about. I am on my second oil change with it in my 2010 Sierra 5.3 with just under 120k mi. I bought it used, from the 2nd owner. I don't know how the original owner changed the oil, but I do know it was on a ranch in West Texas, where it is dusty as all get out. The truck had been in a fender bender and was fixed, but the windshield and headlights were scratched the F up so bad I had to get a new windshield and buff out the headlights. The girl I bought it from only had it a few months and said she changed the oil once when she got it, but only drove it for about 1500 miles before she sold it to me. I have been changing the oil on the 3k mi mark since I bought it, and as soon as Valvoline came out with that R&P, I bought it and have been using it. I have noticed a smoother idle about 2500 miles into the first go 'round with it. I'll keep you informed after the third change is complete. Unfortunately I did not do a bore scope before I started, but I will do one on the next change and at the end of it.
Just found your channel and subscibed. The root of the problem is the lack of maintenance and I would never use a engine flush. I have a 1998 Chevy Silverado Z71 single cab long box with the 5.7. Beautiful truck with 230,000 miles and not driven in the winter. I change the oil between 3000 and 3500 miles. You pull out the dipstick and the oil is clear Amber color. I replaced the valve cover gaskets and the valve train looked like new with no sludge. I'm the second owner. The original owner babied this truck. I got lucky. I also baby it. I run the same oil he did. Mobile 1 10/40. He gave me all maintenance records. This gentleman was very meticulous. I would never sell this truck. Bottom Line is change your oil. I've been working on cars for 45 years. I'm not a licensed but I know alot about cars. Self taught. Great channel 👍
Oil and filters are much less expensive than an engine flush. I like to do oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles or so, like the previous poster, and have had no problems running vehicles well over 100,000 miles. I like to have my mechanic look at my vehicles several times a year, to prevent little problems from becoming big problems. Frequent oil changes are cheap insurance!
I would use Valvoline Restore and Protect and do a couple short oil filter changes and a low mileage OCI.
I agree. Restore and Protect would be a whole lot cheaper and seems to work very well.
Maybe they could do a video on that, but I doubt it would be any different
R&P won't do anything for sludge. Go over to BITOG forums. Several tests have been done there. It DOES, however, seem to clean pistons/rings, which is pretty cool.
@@johnspelman8976 It's been done: th-cam.com/video/kyyZDghgdCI/w-d-xo.html
@@johnspelman8976 It does work, works good enough it will clog the filter
Followed the manufacturers intervals to a Tee! Which is why I always say 5,000 miles, even sooner if you are in traffic often and idling at the kids soccer game with the AC on.
I've tried this a couple dozen or so times and it seems to work 1 out of 3 or so. They usually end up back making noise within a month or two. Hope this one works out for the customers sake. These kits are one of the better ones believe it or not.
Edit: Trans fluid works well.
welll dont have to woory about this why becuase i have 3 toyota and all 3 get an oil change around 1 thousand miles 1k
In the late 90s I knew of 3 guys who ran some sort or "engine cleaner" in their vehicles. All had to have engines replaced within a 6 month period. This scared me away from this type of thing ever since. That said great video! Throughly enjoyed it.
Pretty much the results I expected. Appreciate the video, its always nice to see products tested.
Chemical sludge removal is best not rushed. Dislodging large debris could clog something. I had great luck removing sludge by just running Pennzoil/Quaker State synthetic oils in my 4Runner. I bought it with serious sludge, enough to clog the PCV valve and blow out the crank seal. Blue smoke on startup too. You could see dissolved sludge on the dipstick immediately with the mentioned products. The Valvoline R&P is likely great too, but back then I’d say Shell products had the best additive packages for sludge removal.
That's the way to do it, slow and gentle. Change the oil when it gets dark.. I did it on my truck (that I horribly neglected).. 400 miles until the first oil change, then it went 600, then 800, then 1200, then 1400.. before the oil started getting dark enough for me to be uncomfortable..
Doing the change after 1400 miles, and I could look down into the valve cover and see shiny(ish) metal, stained of course, but I could actually see metal.
In the last 4 to 6 months I replaced valve cover gaskets on both my 99 Express 5.7 149,700 miles and 02 Envoy ,just turned 250k. Valve train is spotless.
Change oil every 3k in Express( hunting, fishing, camping rig) and 3k or once a year in Envoy as I live in city. If I don't I get those actuator codes.
Change the fluids and filters. Dirt is the enemy of moving parts. I was taught that in 68 in shop class and practiced it for 40 years as a tech.
Change your oil/fluids and change filters. Best PM .
The Land Rover pictured was obviously run on petroleum based oil, not synthetic. Coking is common with petroleum based oils, especially the cheeper brands. New engines run hotter than old engines (160f VS 195f), therefore, petroleum based oils will coke at the higher operating temps.
Long Idling will contribute to the coking, as will short trips.
@tjhessmon4327 Roger that. Engines operate at higher temps and engineers installed more plastic on engine...makes ya wonder. 🤔
@@tjhessmon4327 Engines have always ran between 195-220 degrees under normal operation. You make the mistake of thinking a thermostat dictates operating temp.. it doesn't.
I’ve used this on multiple sludged engines and it made the engine look almost new inside.
Clearly didn't do shit here though
From the safety data sheets, the flush is parafin oil and octodecylamine, and the rinse is naptha and cyclohexane if anyone was wondering.
@12:30 I'm not surprise the oil sludge didn't come off the cams, the engine components that are lubricated from oil splashing don't get cleaned by the Dynamic Oil cleaner as well; the chain cover and engine bottom will look great.
Ive done many of these BG Dynamic services with great results desludging motors.
The only one I had mixed results on was a ford 5.4 3v, inside the timing cover was spotless however the oil ports to the heads are so small So it didn’t do a thorough job getting everything on the valvetrain, but I was really happy with the results inside the timing components. All other vehicles were VERY clean.
In terms of restored ring function… absolutely a home run product
Recently I replaced my PCV on my Audi A5. With the PCV take out. I would see the valve train inside and it is perfectly clean. No sludge no stain. The metals are still silver in color.
My car has done 100000 miles in less than 5 years! And I do 5000 miles oil change intervals.
At this rate. I think the engine will last forever
First, this is Not Sludge, it oil coking.
Second, We old mechanics used to treat engines like this with Kerosine or JP5, mixed with the oil, run for 20 to 30 min, until its mostly gone.
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That said, the process started with scraping away the coking (physically), then rinsing the top end with Kerosine or JP5, with the oil pan drain open. Most engines the were OHV, so we did the Valley as well.
The procedure usually included removing and cleaning the Valve rockers, push rods and lifters and cleaning them individually, as well as changing the valve stem seals ( used compressed air to hold the valves closed).
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Once the components were cleaned, we reassembled the components, then ran 3 Kerosine mixes through the engine (at idle), until we observed clean oil. (Qt kerosine or JP5 to Remainder of fill oil). JP5 works best, but its more expensive.
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Because cheep petrol based oil in those days would easily coke, we performed this service regularly. This is not something mechanics observe today, as most vehicles are serviced with synthetic oil, which has a much higher coking and boron plate temperature. Also... check the EGR and PCV systems on this Land Rover.
Kerosene is very effective cleaner mixed with cheap oil - 50/50 mix . It is worth try or alternatively some cheap auto transmission oils which also tend to clean rather well but mix in a fair proportion of oil with them- say 50 / 50. Run for half an hour then leave it then run again for the same time but don't drive it at all. Just engine runs at 2,000 rpm. Then drain it again.
Solid comment and information!!! I came to say the same about physically cleaning as much sludge as possible.
welll dont have to woory about this why becuase i have 3 toyota and all 3 get an oil change around 1 thousand miles 1k
@@jameseverly8501 Toyota's are just so good across the entire range compared to most other makes. Servicing is the key to keeping cars going.
My dads method of reviving sludgy engines: Synthetic oil changes at 1k and filter changes every 500 miles. He did this until the detergents in the oil did it job, sometimes up to 20 times. Low and slow, but you could tell when the engine was healed again. Lot of salvaged cars from Craiglist back in the day.
I had good results using BG EPR on older Toyotas. The 2003 Camry 2AZFE with 110,000 miles had heavy smoking on cold start for a very long time, maybe15 years. It never consumed excessive oil. The smoking has stopped completely for over a year. The 2006 Highlander 2AZFE was consuming approximately a quart in 5,000 miles at 185,000 miles. Excess black deposits were present in the drained oil. The consumption was reduced by half and the engine runs even smoother than new at 200,000 miles. I ran it through my 2017 Tacoma 2GRFKS at 80,000 miles with no change and little or no excess dirt in the drained oil. All these vehicles get 5,000 mile OCIs. The two older engines received valve cover gaskets and did not have sludge present on the valve train components.
Was the 2003 Camry smoking on cold start up a valve stem seal issue?
I have fixed over 40 vehicles with the BG EPR. The Dynamic kit I used once after the EPR did not fix a heavily sludged engine. From what I understand the Dynamic kit is equivalent to two cans of EPR in 30w oil. It did fix the problem. The problems I have fixed are mostly GM 5.3/6.0/6.2 oil pressure and oil burning. I fixed a 2000's Mazda Protege with severe oil burning. With the EPR I poor it into the existing oil and run it for 30 minutes no more than 1500 rpm. Let it sit for 2-4 hours then run it for another 30 minutes and immediately drain it. I wonder if that engine has an oiling problem to the top end?
I’ve been using the ATS Chemical engine & fuel treatment products for years and car has been running tip top, currently about 135k miles.
Watched right to the end, I was there for it, I love it, have confidence, no even need for self consciousness. Cheers!
Did this once with a Ford V6. It had about half an inch of drab/sludge in the oil pan. Always remove as much sludge by hand as possible, so remove the oilpan and use a brush and some diesel fuel to clean. Pull ghe pan and let it drip.Than run it with an engine flush/ sludge remover. Than run it with normal oil with half a liter of ATF added to it for at least 200 miles. Old school mechanics' trick. ATF has great detergents in it. Ended up with a clean engine. Still there's always the risk of a chunk dislodging and blocking a passage somewhere. It's a risk you must be willing to take. The engine will be toast anyhow if you leave it like this. Adapt your oil change intervals to your driving style/ conditions.
I've had good results with cleaner, QMI, add 0.5 liter, run for 15 min, change oil as normal.
-90's diesel, after cleaning I noticed it took much longer for the new oil to turn black.
Did not remove rocker-cover to inspect.
So my take on it now is that in your case the sludge is to hard and thick for cleaning to do much. I do believe in useing a cleaner as "maintenance" once and a while.
New oil cleans, sure, that's why it turns black pretty quick. But it doesn't clean enough, or able to suspend enough sludge, and that's when it's able to build up such as in your example..
That sludge was well on the way to becoming tar. Needed a "manual evacuation" when rocker cover off. Saw this on a GF's car that was used for commuting a short distance, never got warmed up. The old Ford push rod engine had pounds of thick gunk in the rockers and springs. Took an age to clean it out with diesel,scrapers and stiff brushes. Advised her to do oil changes more often. Did she listen? Ha ha!
Best choice switch to a good oil like Redline, Amsoil or HPL. Use them to clean out the engine with short OCIs, to clean that much gunk out safely, its going to take time.
Toyota recommends 10k oil changes on my new 2024 2.4T 4 banger Tacoma. I just had the dealership perform a “break in now complete” factory oil change at 1k miles. I plan on changing the oil and filter every 5k miles.
Yes, do that!
When I seen how much sludge was there. I pretty much knew what the outcome would be. BG can help on smaller build ups. But once it cakes and crusts, I haven't found anything that works. Thank you for the honest review. We need more of these type reviews. Unbiased and let the viewer (us) decide for ourselves.
If you put a quart of Dexron 3 in the oil and run it over
Time it will dissolve any sludge…
Around 1993, I had a 1989 Jeep with a 4.0. I used Valvoline and Purolator filters. I got it with 20K on it. I did oil changes religiously at 3K miles. When I pulled the valve cover due to leaking at 90K, I was shocked to see sludge up to the top of the rocker arms. Last time I used Valvoline. Still doing 3K changes, each time I added an aftermarket detergent additive. Got to 150K before I got rid of it. Still do not use Valvoline to this day. Mostly Mobil 1 full Synthetic at 4 to 5K. I do use Quaker State Full Synthetic on cars that I had oil seepage on with great results (2 cars, 2 successes).
Thans for demo - sad to see it failed here (but good to know it helped a Civic's stuck rings). I wonder if the ATS kit (one oil treatmet, one gas treatment used together) would do any better?
its funny you mention doing this on a Kia. Ray over and Rainman Ray's Repairs did this very same procedure on a Kia with the horrible GDI engine that always starts burning oil. Still waiting on an update from him on that vehicle.
I have over the years cleaned out many engines without damage that you could hardly see the rockerarms before than after many oil changes. A quart of automatic transmission fluid with every oil change.than change the oil as soon as it starts to turn brown and over a year time.
Great video ! Don't be disapointed by the limited result : it's very informative for a viewer like me. It means that once you have sludge in you engine, cleaning it is a nightmare. You also have the risk of damaging the engine with the sludge debrits when they change places.
So the best solution is avoiding this situation.
Watch JR GO did it on his Camaro and he had better results. I'd be very interested, as a case study, to see if the client and you guys use Valvoline Restore and Protect to see if that does anything in the next few thousand miles.
Try the valvoline retore and protect
Great review. Would be amazing if you could make a similar video on kerosene and diesel flush. Those seem to be popular ways of cleaning engine sludge, so would be interesting to see what it looks like under valve cover.
Might as well use a heated pressure washer. Drop the oil pan and clean from the bottom.
We used to see a lot of sludge issues on BMW and the only method that worked to get it clean was 3k interval and replace half a liter with ATF for the next 15k miles
I had a 2017 Audi Q7 that didn’t have a sludge issue but was burning a quart of oil every 1000 miles. The car had 117k miles on it. The BG cleaner did cut the oil burning in half and also got rid of a misfire and a low CAT efficiency issue.
I’ve used BG for probably 35 years, for the most part it’s one of the better products I’ve tried over 41 years. Do they still include the little plastic chip in the MOA. And yes I agree with you Sherwood,3000 RPM for 45 minutes (I would be a little nervous). Again another great video thanks again from Pismo Beach California.
Yes they still put the plastic chip in the MOA can.
@@bearing_aficionado thanks for the reply. We would get spiffs for every chip and bottle cap. Have a great rest of your day.
@johnrpizzaguy you too, my man!🍻
this why its SOOOOOOOOOOO important to change your oil either by a shop or yourself because this can happen me myself i do my own oil changes every 6k use supertech oil and my car good its no excuse to neglect cheap simple maintenance 💯💯
Yup , change oil and filter @3kmi always
Never had any luck with sludge cleaners except for way back in the 70s my mentor would mix kerosene with the oil and run it in the engine, drain and fill it with fresh and it actually did a decent job. Don't know ow if I would try that in today's engines though
Lake Speed Jr @TheMotorOilGeek is who your thinking of for the used oil tests and video about the Valvoline Restore and Protect.
I was thinking Bob is the Oil Guy was who he was talking about. Lake Speed Jr. has a lot of good videos.
*you're.
The Motor Oil Geek sounds a lot better than The Oil Homie or whatever he said LOL
I guess I am old school. Intervals 5K miles, 250 hours, 3 months. Which ever occur first. With all the Fleet vehicles never had an issue. If cleaning was a necessary procedure I used diesel fuel. Fill the engine to the top, let set for a few hours then drain. Add oil & run for 15 minutes, then drain. All good at that point. I will say none of our engines were as bad as this one illustrated. Proper maintenance is the key!!!
We all have our opinions. The owner of that vehicle probably been driving it like miss daisy all the time- probably in a ton of daily traffic. A good run on the highway/motorway for 5-10miles at least 2x a week (like an italian tune up), shouldn't let any engine have that much build up. Either save and spend some extra money on fuel consumption and fuel injector cleaners to negate sludge and carb deposits instead of cleaners or possibly shell out more money to fix a diarrhea oil filled engine like that. I am as always impressed watching vids from this channel that never ceases to amaze me.
Great channel, love you guys. Try using the valvoline protect and restore for a few oil changes
Valvoline Restore & Protect is called, the oil that valvoline say that u need about 4 oil services to clean all the gunk in the engine and free up the piston rings from deposits so u could possibly correct excessive blow-by issues or oil consumption issues.
Usually when the few times I buy a used vehicle, I use the LiquiMoly Engine Flush. I just follow their directions, it works very well too.
I started flushing my engine with a quart of diesel at oil changes on my N62TU motor at 150000 miles. My oil changes were black as ink for the next several oil changes. Oil consumption dropped from 1 quart every thousand to 1 between 7000 mile oil changes. The top end power is like brand new and my oil changes are only slightly brown now. My valve guide seals are original also. I currently have 195000 miles now. The intake no longer has oil residue from blowby and the engine barely makes any noise at idle.
It probably got the lower engine sparkly clean. You need something that you leave in there while you drive around for a while to clean the valvetrain in my experience. Gunk made one like that and I left it in a friend's sludgy engine for a week. It even cleaned the inside of the oil cap.
When you’ve got that much sludge there’s no magic bullet I guess. Anything strong enough to dissolve all that sludge would probably eat all the seals and damage the aluminum. The flush probably gets saturated by sludge and then can’t pick up any more.
I would first scoop as much out with a plastic scoop or suction thing as possible. Or use a couple of cans of carburetor cleaner and spray it all out and spray down into the oil passages and take off the oil pan and do the same with the bottom end. Fill up the engine with diesel and turn it over by hand a bunch of times. Dump it out and fill it with cheap oil and turn it over by hand a bunch of times to try and get an oil film on the bearings. Dump it out. Then flush it.
I’ve used that BG on 4 different vehicles and it’s been excellent for me. However, that vehicle you have has some serious neglect and nothing but a serious scrubbing will get that off!
BG eliminated oil consumption on 3 vehicles and 1 was for preventative measures.
You MUST retest!
I thought it would do more as well. No where near worth it but still something. But it looks like it didn't do anything
Thank you for testing and sharing
What was the condition of the sludge? Was it hardened and baked on? Thanks for the video, the information is important.
Valvoline Restore and protect! I know they don’t have the EU spec. Worth a shot though
Thank you for the experiment.
What you should be running through that is Valvoline’s premium Blue Restore for diesels! That stuff will clean this out no problem!
Lexus dealer wants 10,000 mile oil change. I’m changing mine at 5,000. Oil is comparatively cheap.
I'm changing out my 4runner "lifetime" ATF tomorrow. Toyota/Lexus is crazy. I'm sure under perfect conditions 10k oil change are okay, but almost no one is operating their vehicle under ideal conditions.
Do not go over 5,000 on your gasoline engine oil, I don't care what any TH-cam channel or manufacturer tells you. If you do more city driving than highway, change it even sooner.
We’re gonna form a little group of blacklisted motorists. 😂
With my driving habits I don’t think I’m going to go over 4K from now on.
I go 5000 miles oil change o-20 synthetic on my 2011 lexus is250 awd and the same on daughters 2015 lexus gs350 f sport awd. 3000 on my 2006 subaru sti pita car
I’ve been back to 3k mile oil changes for a couple of years now. I changed over to Walmart synthetic to compensate for the increased cost
Thank you for the great video I am disappointed it didn't work well as I have a vehicle coming this weekend with sludge and I was hoping this kit would clean it out.
Start halving the OEM oil change recommendations for any vehicle and always use synthetic.
I’ve done this service on engines that were worse than that and they came out looking brand new with only some small deposits left in the corners of the head. I’m surprised it didn’t do a better job.
Valvoline Restore and Protect is my preference.
That product may work as preventative maintenance for customers that are always too late doing their service interval oil changes. Once an engine gets that much sludge , no such thing as a mechanic in a bottle IMO. Thanks for the video fellas. Any chance you folks can do a before and after video on valve cleaning on a GDI engine with chemicals and without pulling intake manifolds??? I think that would be cool. Keep the videos coming my friends..👍👍👍👍👍
You had better run, the BG fanboys are going to come after you!!!!! 😂
lol. bg is no better snake oil than this.
Try valvoline restore and protect
It would be interesting to see what it did in the crankcase. There is a LOT more oil splash going on there.
Royal Purple has a cleaning additive in their oil which overtime cleans out/off any sludge or carbon buildup which I've noticed since I've been using it in my 2009 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor for the past year and a half.
Appreciate the attempt! I have a 2017 2.0 Discovery as well! LOL
I'd like to see the three different filters cut open to see what's inside and if it is any different than the first one you removed.
I've watched several videos about this stuff and everyone who used it swear by it. One video was done on a Camero and it cleaned it right up. It was sludged up pretty good, too.
I was thinking of that video as well. It did a great job on that engine.
@@jeffsullivan3101 you talking about WatchJrGo?
What about ATS's (Automotive Test Solutions) Engine Oil Sludge Treatment Product? Have you guys used it? If so, Is it any good?
Definitely ""SNAKE OIL""...Thank You for live Demonstration & keeping it 💯👍💯👍💯👍💯
Keep Up The Great Work
I had a Jag Epace on lease (same engine) . The dealer refused to change the engine oil for the first 2.5 years and eventually it was like treacle. The car was actually very reliable for 5 years, but I can't help thinking that it's longevity has been compromised.
Had a 87 Sentra always used Mobil one oil and adjusted the valves every 100K and it was always clean like new when I pulled the valve cover. I sold it at 340K It was using a quart at that time every 5K. Three years later it passed me on the expressway no oil smoke, but fenders flapping in the breeze. Lol .Oh I used 5K oil change interval's.
Interesting... we've used that BG kit a few times and it's worked a lot better for us, in some cases it cleans up all the varnish. The ones that still had a large amount of deposits like in this example, it was a lot softer than before, and at the next oil change it was cleaner again
Thanks for being honest. Love the channel
Any problems regarding sludge I always added half a litre of automatic transmission fluid to the existing oil and drove the car for 50 miles. the mild detergents in the fluid clean out the gunk without causing any damage to the engine. it can also help free up sticking piston rings and hydraulic lifters. once the car has been driven for a while drain the oil fit a new filter and refill with fresh oil.
Can you do an another similar video with a similar slugged up engine with Valvoline Restore And Protect oil please.
Interesting video. I’m thinking that amount of sludge has the oil galleys at the top of the engine partially blocked. Which would could might prevent some of the oil spraying the top of the engine. Which can limit the effectiveness of the product in the short term
Nice!! Always wanted to see the components after these services. I’d like to think there’s a small difference but…I’m not completely impressed. I wish you guys had tried the 505 CRO from ATS for this. Maybe soon?
Yes. Will be clean. But I use ATS Chemical CRO 505 to flush. Been a BG fan a long time but CRO 505 is a superior product. Try it. $60 for the flush and fuel cleaner.
Believe it or not Range Rover was telling customers up until fairly recently to do oil changes at 20,000 mile intervals! But changed it recently to 10K. We have a new 2024 Range Rover and after doing a break in up to around 1K miles, I'm planning on doing the first oil change right around 3500 miles, and then every 5k-7.5K miles after.
Now try the Valvoline restore and protect on that same vehicle. Do the first oil change and then when it comes in, take it off check results and do that three times. I believe that vehicle would be a perfect candidate.
I use 50% oil and 50% diesel fuel in the crankcase to clean sludge. Run the engine for 20 minutes and repeat as required. AFT in the oil helps to clean sludge as well but diesel is cheaper.
Us old crows would use these types of mixes to clean out, cheep oil coking in the 1980s-90s. Once Synthetics started to be used, these severe coking issues disappeared.
What you drained out with the bg stuff wasn't thick with the sludge that should have been emulsified in it. It was too thin and watery meaning not much was removed from the engine and kept in the oil with the dispersion additives. You need to run a high detergent and dispersent blend of oil flush
This stuff does a good job 💯
Watch JR Go did a Chevy Camaro and a Dodge Dart with BG with good results and ford boss me also. Depends of the severity of sludge probably. Ecoboost engines are very tough on oil never exceed 3000 miles oci with full synthetic oil. They are notorious for carbon build up and sludge. Royal Purple and Valvoline restore and protect are the two best to help cleaning the engine. Thanks for sharing.
I knew a guy who bought used cars and immediately flushed the engines. Almost all blew up. He learned the hard way
What about just doing seafoam 100 miles before every oil change? My main question is how does an engine that new sludge up that bad with regular oil changes?
good job keeping it real! like to see more studies on using the BG product on oil consumption issues
Simpler and more classic, change the oil with cooling oil from the high-voltage electrical transformers...only needed once.
The best...save money .
That’s diazanon
Do keep the updates coming regarding oil consumption issues.
Put some Valvoline Restore and Protect in it
I pray to work with you one day 🎉
Let’s get the brake rotor recomendation 🙏
I worked at a quick lube and got in trouble because I drained the engines too long. They wanted to drain for a minute. Never let the employees let it drain out. Leave more oil in the engine so they can sell you the full oil amount and use less
I would luv to see valvoline restore and protect work on this.