BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration vs. Oil Consumption | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 29
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ม.ค. 2024
- Will BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service stop the oil burning?
Entire oil burning playlist: • Oil Consumption Experi...
BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Kit: www.amazon.com/BG-Dynamic-Pla...
Blue Driver obd II scanner: www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Blu...
catch can: www.amazon.com/Ruien-0046-Uni...
tool kit: www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-277-P...
Makita ratchet: www.amazon.com/Makita-RW01Z-L...
#1zz #oilburner #corollalovers #catchcan
Music:
Shadowing by Corbyn Kites
Eternal Garden by Dan Henig
Sunshine Samba by Chris Haugen
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this TH-cam channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![[UNCUT] ย้อนฟัง 2 บิ๊กตำรวจปะทะกัน "บิ๊กโจ๊ก VS รองแต้ม" ฟ้องเรียก 10 ล้าน!! I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vNpTtVjdcBo/mqdefault.jpg)
Entire oil burning playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
I think your motor is beyond help and just needs to be rebuilt you've already blew all kinds of money on products and they all failed only thing you didn't and won't try is engine restore I don't understand why your trying everything else if restore can't help it then it just needs to be rebuilt its beyond the help of any kind of oil treatment can offer or do
@@robbieturnbull4253 The B12 Chemtool and Seafoam is not expensive, so they were worth a try, but I agree with you that his engine probably needs to be bored .30 over and new pistons and rings installed, I myself have used Total Seal gap less rings in my Ford 302 motor and my 2110 CC stroked 1968 VW beetle engine I built.
@@robbieturnbull4253 it's an experiment to see if any of these products will make a difference or reduce the burning, some people can't afford this and in some engines this has actually been very successful
I believe engine restore will only mask the problem@@robbieturnbull4253
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY DAVE (caps for emphasis, not screaming ), I can't believe you haven't installed a fumoto valve on this car yet, makes draining the oil soooo easy compared to removing and replacing the bolt every time. Quality product, I've had mine for more thatn 10 years, zero issues.
Really outstanding series. No question, you’ve diligently given all of the chemical options a fair shot. Thanks for doing this!
Thank you :-)
3 years is along time Dave. I sat and binged watched your oil burning Corolla series. I enjoy it very much. And I'm looking for results as my car is burning oil also. Looking forward to the next video. Keep up the good work!! 🤘
Thanks Clint! Much appreciated :-)
Honestly the result is cylinder head job, replace worn valves, valve seats and stem seals and off course the piston rings, most important the oil rings.
Loved the series Dave was a pleasure to watch and see the trips in between, makes me want to go back to the states
Guess I got lucky. I got the answer first time.
How do you know that the cylinders are still. within specs? You dont just replace piston rings, you change bearings as well and you check the block and the shape of cylinders. It might need liners also. Thats not a cylinder head job, it is engine rebuild. You dont have a clue.@@aloisdecroon6096
I always use marvel mystery oil in oil and fuel to keep rings lose and free
Looks like the oil stayed a lot cleaner for longer. As far as I can tell BG is good for removing all that old oil varnish. You can actually kind of see this in the shots of the oil filter housings. So from what I have seen from others, yes, BG will clean up everything and free up sticky rings and fix oil consumption issues by restoring ring tension provided there is no mechanical wear. In this case, though, I think this into the mechanical issue realm that no chemical is going to correct.
Looks like a lot of people agree with you! Thanks for the comment!
I work for BG and am currently doing this service as we speak!
This series will be super helpful for anyone dealing with this oil burning issue. Thanks a lot for creating it!
Thank YOU for watching!!
That paper cup is genius!
A co-worker of mine got one of these for free a year and a half ago for doing work for one of his customers. His was at the point where it would burn A quart of oil every 300 mi. He had tried chemical repairs for 3 years, but it seemed like every year it would have to come in for another dose.
He pulled the motor and we rebuilt the engine in about 10 hours over the course of a week. Of the 16 oil return holes, 14. Were plugged when we initially pulled the pistons, 11 were still plugged after 2 hours in the parts washer, and four of them were so stuffed full of hard carbon, that we ended up having to drill them out.
The fix, as noted in the forums, is to either drill the oil return holes to the next size up, or by adding two additional return holes in between both existing oil return holes on both sides.
We ended up doing both. The two competing theories are that by oversizing the return holes, they will transfer less heat into the oil as it gets scraped back down into the pan, reducing the chance that it can coke up and plug the holes again. And that the additional oil holes were a factory fix in the updated Pistons for the 1zz/2zz engines.
Either way, the return holes were gross and it honestly took more time than it ever. Should have to get those pistons clean, although there was no reason to replace them. The Molly coating on the piston skirt did wear but it hadn't worn away completely.
We ended up rebuilding the motor in the most sloppy mechanic way possible. Everything was cleaned and reused. The bores were honed out, and although the deck and head were checked for trueness and were in spec, we never sent them out for machining.
It got the cheapest rebuild kit on RockAuto, and got fresh bearings and a timing set and water pump.
Since then he is driven it about 10,000 mi. The only times he's added oil, have been to fill it up after an oil change. Total consumption between oil changes was 2/10 of a quart, and some of that could be the motor breaking in again.
(He did end up having an external coolant leak from the head gasket, but I blame that on the cheap head gasket more than anything else. Doing it again. That's the only thing either of us would change)
Good info. Love this comment!
Called it. Knew that the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner wouldnot do anything of note. I hoped it would but knew it would not. Now if the engine had been full of sludge the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner would have been the perfect fit. The engine is too far gone all of the other cleaners that have come before did all that could be done via insitu cleaning. I have said this since before you replaced your valve stem seals that you needed to check those valve guides as well!
I'd do the valve seals first. Easier because it's the top-end. You definitely have oil coming down the stems from the look of it. You can keep the valves at the top by pressurizing the cylinders with a leak-down tester using air pressure to hold the valves in place while you change the seals.
That's already been done like three times
Been done
its the rings, the oil is litterly getting blown into the intake, and has uneven compression. he should remove the valves and atleast lap the seats and get all the build up off. the rings, and the ring groves will both be worn.
This has nothing to do with valves, this is from excessive crankcase pressure
@@spartanpatriot3163 Whatever it's over 20 year old no magic in a can is going to fix a mechanical problem whatever it is
Hi David,i can tell you from my experience with my 94 Honda civic with 530,000 miles original motor.i bought it new.You NEED to remove the pistons and rings,buy a new set of stocks rings, brand won't matter,hone a crosshatch pattern with a flex hone in the CLYS.and NUMBER 1 use a .093 dia drill BY HAND in a pin vise and ream out the OIL DRAIN BACK HOLES.My car used to burn 1 qt every 100 miles and that was 4 yrs and 40,000 miles ago.now it USES 1/4 CUP every 3,000 miles.my pistons have 6 drain-back holes every single one was clogged solid making it an oil pump,and the other benefit it passes smog with 1/10 of ALLOWED gases again.
Thnaks for the advice Roberto!
I think your advice is the only way to go, unless some genius works out a way to clean the holes while the pistons are still in the engine........I believe someone will find a way@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
Did you ever try a Berryman piston soak from above?
@@JonnyAbs-0
He did with limited success. He made a video about it too.
This is the best oil change channel on youtube ;)
😂
I have an old Honda crv that had the exact issues as your Corolla to include the 420 check engine light. Car ran great, just a lot of oil consumption. I tried all the same snake oil treatments and fixes as you and I ended up spending a weekend rebuilding the engine 2 weeks ago in my driveway. After pulling the pistons, the compression rings were all fine, the ring lands on all the oil rings were just packed with carbon to the point i had to let the pistons soak in chem-dip for an hour to be able to remove the oil rings but I was able to do the whole rebuild for $350, no more oil burning and the p420 check engine light also went away. Good luck, hopefully whatever u have planned next saves you a rebuild.
That's awesome, Antwain! and if it comes to that (which I think it will) I hope mine goes as easy :-)
What do you think caused it?
Great series. Thanks for all your hard work.
I can say this series and the dedication put toward it is without a doubt incredible! The time and effort put in to making this series has helped me immensely. You can go on any website and read 5/5 star reviews on all of these oil burning fixing liquids yet I have tried them time and time again and none of them work to the point of what it claims on the bottle or in the reviews. I think it's safe to say you can't expect a magic potion in a bottle to fix oil consumption issues in most cars depending on the cause. I too have the 1zzfe and I've tried bottle after bottle from Bars to Blue Devil to STP to Lucas stop leak to AT205 Reseal to so many others I can't even remember them all to no avail. Even something as expensive as BG you'd expect it to work. There were times I thought I WAS THE CRAZY one reading "guaranteed to work or your money back" and I'm thinking how many people does this not work for? I must be the only one; but now I don't feel as crazy. Thank you for these video's; it's very much needed.
👍👍
I think your videos are better described as a "scientific approach 101 for resolving engine oil consumption".
It progressively covers all possible fictitious solutions then finally arrives at the proper solution.
Your "Documentary" series has been very educational and equally entertaining.
Thanks for the kind comment!
Bravo. Looking forward to the future series. Thoroughly enjoyable and informative.
Been an awesome series to follow… thank you
Thanks for watching!
Thanks. That clears some things up now. Great video, Dave!👍
Thanks Steven!
I've had moderate success using Chemtrol B-12 on a 2015 Kia Forte that was burning a quart of oil every 300 miles. I did an overnight soak down in each cylinder for 24 hours. I then added more B-12 to one cylinder at a time. I used a compression tester adapter after adding more B-12, as each cylinder had drained down. Then after adding more Chemtrol, I brought each piston up by baring the crank over with a breaker bar, until the valves closed, using compressed air to feel the closed valves. This forced the B-12 down past the rings. After doing all four cylinders, I then spun the engine to remove any additional B-12 and drained the oil, replacing it with new oil. I got the idea to use compressed air in the cylinders after reading the Hyundai Kia TSB on oil consumption. The engine now consumes about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles, still not great, but a lot better.
Thanks for the fun Dave!
been looling forward to this video for a long time. thanks dave
Thanks for always watching, James!
11:30 i bet your neighbors love you lol
Love your test, it’s like a series and I’m always excited for the next episode! Haha looking forward to the next one!
Thank you!
These are gold , DIY Dave. pure gold.
Thank you! 😊
I haven't seen it yet but I am so excited. It feels like a series finally to a great show lol!
:-)
Season Finale indeed 😂
Forged pistons and connecting rods inbound!!! Awesome video and series.
Great idea. Let's clean those oil holes. 👍
I tried the Chemtool B12 trick and it worked. 2011 Hyundai Sonata, 188,000 miles, was burning a quart every 500 miles. Now, it has been 3000 miles since that treatment, and the oil dipstick is still reading 3/4. I was truly amazed. Thanks for the idea Dave!!!
Thanks for another sucess story Michael!
@michaelcochran7392 Did you apply to crankcase and fuel or just fuel?
You'll have to watch the original video with B12 to see how its done@maxe.1204
Did you let the berrymans soak cold or warm
@@colebarnes3938Any idea?
Been waiting months for this…well done great video once again Dave Sir
Thanks Stephen!!
Can’t wait bro 😊
Im looking forward to the next steps! Keep up the good work! 🤗
Thank you!! 😊
Wow. It’s working. Thanks for sharing
Great experiments!
Great Job Dave, as per Usual!👍
The Saga Continues!
Thanks for Your Hard work and continued Dedication in the quest to reduce the oil consumption of your car!
Thanks also to your Family for their support of you in your quest! 🥰
We appreciate them too!
Looking forward to the next phase and wishing you (and us) a successful resolution and Low cost Fix, to a Vexing problem! 😁
Happy New Year!
Mike in San Diego. 🌞🎸🚀🖖
Thanks Mike! Happy New Year to you and yours! :-)
You should do an oil analysis.
It would tell you if there is fuel in the oil... which would tell you if the rings were allowing fuel to bypass the rings... which is a simple way of telling if they're stuck.
Oil analysis would also tell you where wear is occurring... and that might also help identify where the problem is occurring.
🙂
P.S. Ethanol in the fuel oxidises and polymerises to forms a sludge that is really hard to remove (won't dissolve in normal solvents)... and may be the main reason why the rings get stuck.
I always watch this series, they are so interesting and i usually like a faster paced video, but it’s perfect for killing time at work! haha. I love it and you have an awesome channel, thanks for the hours of entertainment and experiments!
Your kind comment is much appreciated! :-)
Dave try some of this oil ,Valvoline Restore & Protect is the first and only motor oil that prevents future deposit formation and restores pistons to factory clean by removing up to 100% of engine-killing deposits.
Internally, the engine is clean now after this treatment.
I do agree with you though in that Valvoline Restore & Protect would have done the best job compared to everything he's tried up until this video.
I recently began using it about 4 months ago on my g/f's RAV4 which had some small sludge deposits visible from the oil fill cap opening. Cleaned it all out in just 1 oil interval. We are sticking to using it on her RAV4 moving forward.
This oil is simply on another level.
What he needs are new piston rings and the walls need to be machined all over again.
Glad you picked my choice of BG, it still won't fix mechanical issues.
I can't wait to see those new total seal piston rings go on with a 3 angle valve job with new valve seals
Thank you for preventing me from buying that kit. I was skeptical now I know why. Enjoying this series very much.
Love the videos
Can't wait to the next one
Thanks Michael!
I love watching these videos! Keep up the good work
Thank you!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I have a 2007 Toyota Yaris with 225k miles and it’s burning about a quart of oil every 2k miles. I put Castrol edge 5w30 in it still but I would love to fix the oil burning problem. I heard these Yaris can easily make it to 500k miles but I’m sure it’s with thicker oil or with Lucas oil stabilizer. I love the passion you put in your channel and on the oil burning topic.
Oh ahit. I’ve been waiting for this.
Holy smokes! I stumbled upon your content, you've been at this for a long time! Much props to you. You are invaluable with your information, moreover I've enjoyed your storytelling.
Thank you so much for your kind comment!
Thank you very much for a outstanding series Dave and i would definitely continue to watch the following series of the 2002 Corolla. Happy New Year to you and yours 😃🎉🎆
Thank you :-) and same to you!
@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thank you very much and my pleasure 😊😊
I've been subscribed since the beginning with notifications on and I still check to see if a video was posted
Thank you for that!! It is very much appreciated!!
The editing on your videos is perfect! Just the right amount of detail without too much. The split screen placing the ramps... 👍😁
Much appreciated jimbo!
I noticed the area where the oil filter mounts was significantly cleaner after the dynamic cleaner!
I admire your dedication to this. I tried barrimens b12 and it was great for about a month. And now it's back to it's usual self.
Can't wait to see your next ideas though. Keep up the good work
Thanks ... and sorry Berryman's didn't do better for you.
awesome series enjoyed all of it. Hope you do a rebuild video these are fairly easy and lots of parts still available
thanks for the journey, can't wait to what happens next.
Thank you for watching!!
Bring it on .Can't wait until the next one..
😊Thanks
So good. I appreciate your patience! Looking forward to more. The videos are fun, entertaining, and informative. Lesson learned: Don't buy snake oil.
"DO PREMIUM QUALITY WORK!" Gotta respect you for your tenacity! BTW, the color of the oil doesn't mean much; the time it's been in the engine does. Just check out Royal Purple motor oil, and see how dark it is unused. I own 2012 KIA Sorento; it has 102,500+ miles on it. It was moderately burning oil, so I poured 3 bottles of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool AND IT TOTALLY STOPPED BURNING OIL!!!
How long did you run it with the B12?
If you plan on redoing the rings I suggest having the Car Care Nut do the work. Be a cool collab vid
I'd love that, just don't know if he has time for a peon like me. :-/
AMD won't touch this car he doesn't believe in boring out engines for oversized pistons he simply orders a short block and reseals the head
Excellent videos,
I look forward to one day seeing what state the oil control rings are in 😀
Can't Wait to see the piston rings when you take apart the engine to see if you can clean /fix it
I’ve learned to do the smoky stuff after dark.
The introduction of water into the intake tract while the engine is at high idle will clean the piston tops and the combustion chambers but I don't think it will bust thru all that solidified compacted oil in the oil ring lands.
Tuning in for this 😊
2 things you can see the clean ring around the pistons in the earlier videos. That’s a dead give away that the oil is getting around the rings and washing the carbon away
Also in the video it’s looks real easy to turn the engine over. I’m not sure if the rings as stuck/plugged or worn but it’s time to pull the pistons
Thumbs up as soon as I saw the oil bung fumble. I can relate!
It gets me almost every time. 🫤
The solution to the oil consumption... install a oil separator catch can, draining the capture oil through the dipstick tube back to the crankcase. Try thicker oil as 10W40 or 10W50. Also make a test without the catalytic converter, to check potential back pressure influence.
During the b12 experiment and you scoped it, it really looked like the walls were super shiny. It could be that they had some residual oil or the cylinder walls are glazed over. Pull the pistons, re-hone it, and re-ring it. That's what I would do.
And a valve job.
Agreed except for a valve job. 1zz valve job needs skill. Rings and hone not so much
Always fun to see updates to the saga, will also be interested to see if consumption improves over time after BG, saw a few videos stating that, but I wouldn’t hold my breath. I can’t recall if you ever sprayed brake clean into the cylinders, not sure if safe, may eat the painted oil pan. Interesting thought on entropy by the way.
Never tried the brake cleaner, but that's another great suggestion. Thanks for the kind comment!
This series inspired me to do chemical experiments on my 2004 Buick LeSabre with 200k miles.
Nice video again! Watched the whole series, always looking forward for the next. Funny to see you have the same IKEA overthere as we have in The Netherlands :)
Thanks again!! :-)
Hey dave great episode..i was curious about that product.. when i seen it smoking like a locomotive I knew it wasn't going to work out tho... great job 👍..
Thanks Mike!
One product that has help many people on newer 1.6 VVTI engines that have oil consumption issues is Xado Verylube Anticarbon. But to the point you are now, I doubt it would have helped. Most people have great success with it when using it right after the oil burning starts. And the issue there is low tension piston rings gumming up with carbon deposits, rather than only the oil drainback holes. In any case, if you end up removing the heads of the engine, I would like to see the state of the pistons rings.
Honestly this is a really cool series. I truly have enjoyed watching you show all these methods. One thing I will say though, is as a professional tech I didn’t believe any of them would create an appreciable change in the grand scheme. Just based on the Toyota engines I’ve seen consuming tons of oil, there is no substitute for mechanical repairs. If it was my personal vehicle I’d remove the engine and do a complete tear down and inspection. Replace all Seals and gaskets, probably put new pistons and rings in (if the cylinders were concentric and in spec) and call it a day. It’s your call to continue trying but I hope you eventually go all the way.
Salute Dave
Yet another great video Dave. Was really hoping to see a better result from that. You sure have tried about everything and the B12 did the best by far. UMMMMMM makes me wonder if just another dose of the B12 soak may free up those holes? Love it!
Thank you Thomas! I wonder the same thing .... but .....
Please Dave one more! 🫥
I’m glad you tried the BG kit, I can say it worked for me on an engine with 40k miles on it with some smoke/sludge issues after trying every other flush/chemical, fuel treatment and piston soak. I went from a quart every 4-500 miles to half a quart in 3500 miles and no more smoke. Excited to continue following your journey and the community you’ve created.
Thanks! And glad to hear it worked for you Ross!
What engine with 40,000 miles burns a quart of oil every 500 miles?
@@rfahlsing VQ35DD and VQ35DE from Nissan/Infiniti. Maintenance schedule says 5000/7500 miles but that fouls them up pretty bad. Lots of reports of “pathfinder or qx60 smoking on startup” on the internet for engines as low as 25-30k miles and then Nissan denying claims and recommending a new engine or rebuild for 15k
enjoyed your videos, watched this series to this end 1, looking at last scope of valves/pistons, wow, looks to need physical removal and cleaning of valves and new rings, but I am just a weekend mechanic at best, so, looking forward to your end result, thanks for the vids.
Thanks for watching Jon!
One last effort you can try before you decide to tear the engine apart is Seafoam deepcreep . That stuff should loosen up the oil control rings .
One of my favorite series on youtube. I might watch it all even if I didn't have a 2AZ-FE
Thanks for the kind comment. Much appreciated!
At 21:10 you can sure see how much smoke that put out!
Try Castrol GTX 20W-50, as it will not burn away as fast. If you're keeping this car, I'd recommend a full service on the head along with new pistons and bearings. If the bores are close to stock and still round, a simple hone and set of standard rings, gapped, of course.
That might be way too thick
Dude ever heard of winters?
Looking forward to whatever you try next
Thanks Pete!
I'm very interested in seeing this series play out, I don't know what I'll do when you're finished and have stopped the oil consumption or at least have it well under control, something less than a quart between regular changes
If you haven’t pulled it apart yet, you might try the Valvoline restore oil. Cumulatively you won’t get back to new. It’s been run too long. It does show how good those cars are. It is a great series.
Next time pull out pistons and drill out oil ring holes a little bigger.
I had a Prizim that had a 3 speed auto, same color. Bought used burned a quart every 800 miles. It was fun , wouldn’t go through snow drifts, it would go over them like a sled 🥳
I have been looking for a video on the dynamic engine clean and whether it was good to try to reduce oil consumption. Great info. Watched several videos in the series. I’m subscribed 🍻 Looking forward to the next video on the rings. I have a d17a1 civic doing the same thing. I just can’t justify much expense when I can get a whole re-manned long block for $1900 lol
Thanks ... and I hear ya :-)
A new short block is the only thing that will work. The scoring on the cylinder wall is what is causing the oil usage.
Been following for awhile
Thanks for that!
Valvoline R&P supposed to work after 4 OCI so wil lbe a long haul. I bought two jugs for my cars.
Seeing the condition of those exhaust valves. I'd be very interested in seeing a way to clean all that build up off of them.
Your videos are great and insightful. You make sure and kept the information relevant to all vehicles rather than just this corrolla.
I'd love to try some of these things on my engine in the future
Thanks for the kind comment!
I like the cup on oil filter trick..
You should try Valvoline Protect and Restore motor oil, they claim it cleans rings in 4 oil changes. No additives, just motor oil.
howdy, been following your oil consumption episodes for about 2 years now. i thoroughly appreciated your easiness (and patience) throughout. i have a '97 sentra that went thru a qt of oil every 100 mi. after starting my own crankcase chemical clean-up (i've been essentially using sea foam & berryman's b12), it's now improved to a whopping 150 mi/qt. upon inspection at the beginning, all piston crowns were pooled up w/ oil. last time checked, 1 piston crown dried up. cyl leakdown is 5-12% and compression is 175-185%. (note: this engine's pistons have one compression ring: the rings' ends overlap, eliminating an end gap.) unfortunately, higher priority projects have pushed this one out, so it's been about a year since last working on it. when i start on it again, i'll eventually use the yamalube product. i noticed it thoroughly cleaned all 4 piston crowns - very impressive and, where the other chemicals didn't do nearly as well. there's definitely more details to give, but i'll finish by saying i hope to get back on it before the end of the year...and hope your 'mechanical cleaning' does the trick.
That's great, and please do keep us posted Norm!
Wooooww he visto todos tus videos del corolla, y de cada uno de ellos creo ke hemos aprendido muchísimo (y algo muy importante sin ke yo gaste ni un quinto $$) muchas gracias x buscar esas soluciones a un costo más económico comparado kn una reparación mecánica, me sorprendió los buenos resultados usando el berrimans (chemtool) y la limpieza profunda de los lodos internos del motor con bg, te mando un saludo y un abrazo respetuoso a tu familia, les deseo un feliz año 2024 PD me quedo en espera de tu próximo video, saludos desde Mexicali Baja California Mexico
Thank you for your kind comment, Vincent! I'll let the family know. Blessings to you and yours :-)
Saludos Dave, se refiere al hecho de conectar un vacuometro en alguna manguera de vacío en la admisión para que al acelerar Midas las pulgadas de mercurio en la carátula del vacuometro...
Hhmm ! The plot thickens.
This has been a great series! Hope you haven't sacrificed your Corolla in the process. I have an '03 Honda Accord 2.4ltr. with 150k miles. Same exact issues, and the oil consumption was getting worse, every 5-600 miles. I knew my catalytic converter was getting bad so I thought I would try a new one to see if that might help. So my process was this: while I had no cat connected I did the spray type Sea Foam treatment into the intake, then I did your piston soak with Berryman's, again with the cat disconnected. Smoked like crazy and was obviously loud. Then I put the new cat on with new o2 sensors and changed the oil going from 5w-20 to 5w-30 (Castrol GTX syn blend). Got it to 1,100 miles before having to add a quart. It's at another 700 miles with just about a 1/4 down. So definite improvement thus far. So my question is, maybe your catalytic converter is somewhat clogged? I think these engines are vulnerable to back pressure and this could be part of your problem. I think the state you live in allows non-CARB compliant converters so this might be a worthwhile inexpensive experiment to try.
We scoped the cat in a previous video, Samuel. I think it already has an aftermarket on it, and it sounds pretty free flowing.
It looked like BG coked up the valve stems near the heads really bad. That was 300 dollars of scammage.
Keyhole surgery might work - remove sump and access the piston drain holes from below. Poke out the blockages using a suitable bent pick of some sort, job done!
Always entertaining...I enjoyed the cruising segments too....My guess is that the piston rings (maybe oil control rings) are worn down too much.....time for a full and proper rebuild with piston rings that are known to not have this oil burning issue.
That's my assumption as well. I've seen ZZ engines drop a cylinder 20k miles after the oil consumption has become noticeable.
Hello Dave. There is one more step that i would like to see you do if the problem is truly the drain back holes in the piston clogged.
The process is simple and should easily cure it if that is truly the problem.
Fill the cylinders with carburetor boil like Berryman Chem Dip parts cleaner. Don't worry about rotating the engine or anything else. Just fill the cylinders and keep them topped off for the week and then drain the oil and refill with new oil. Dissolving stuff like that is exactly what carburetor boil is designed to do.
🤔
I really liked how you had 2daves position ramps😂
I have heard some positive things about the new Valvoline Restore and Protect oil. I'm going to put it in my Scion Xb to see how it goes.