Hello! I'm a professional vintage snowmobile mechanic, and I just wanted to say y'all are doing a good job with that engine, but I have a few suggestions. #1 That engine will never make 40hp in summer, the way the carb, ignition timing, compression ratio and pipe are set up for dry cool winter air, if you want to make the true power of that engine while still being reliable something called a "grass drag tune" can be done. Since that is an AC440 engine it is likely that the information on how to do it is already on the internet. #2 The primary clutch on that engine is a comet 94c duster there is a ton of resources and charts to tune one on the internet as well as very good parts availability (for a vintage sled clutch) the number and size of the weights along with the main spring can be changed to get specific engagement and acceleration characteristics to match the power band of the engine. #3 The belt is more than likely getting hot due to misalignment not bad gearing, snowmobile clutches require very precise alignment to be efficient. This requires special alignment bars and small shims to adjust the placement of the secondary clutch on the jack shaft. it is likely that a big portion of the engines power is being waited on heating up the belt and clutches instead of going to the wheels. Best of luck on all your projects, loving the 2 stroke builds.
It would make a world of difference if they would turn the driven the way it is supposed to go! They have it set up Like a 30 series asymmetrical belt not Like a 20 , 40 and all others with a symmetrical belt . The way they have it at anything over slow speeds the belt is getting twisted into an " S "
I was thinking that the weights and spring might help more than the gears also but I know very little about any of it what I know comes from watching this type stuff and reading comments. But I am glad that I wasn't totally full of crap
sure is nice to have Charles on the Cars and Cameras Channel. When Ike isn't around work can still be done on the machines. John makes a good manager and buisness operator and promoter. If all three stick to what they do best this channel will be around for a long time
Charles's is the mini Ike of mini bikes.. an absolute asset to the team!! It's always great seeing Ike and Charles's tear down an engine and rebuild it, even better when it's all three and the wise cracks are flying. Keep up the great work gents.
John, I want to see a 1996 to 2002 RM 250 2-stroke in a cross-kart with a pro-circuit pipe. They were the fastest bone stock engines and actually still are. During those years Suzuki made a gem of an engine that killed the competition.
Since You fix the seals in this two-stroke. It Caused your idle to go down because you have less air leaks. When you start a two stroke engine try to refrain from revving the engine too much. You can get a condition called a cold seize. That is when the piston heats up faster than the cylinder wall.
@@kurtyoung6769 Most of the wear would be on the thrust faces of the cylinder. The rest of the cylinder would still be close to manufacturing specs. That's why I always measure the cylinder's diameter across both the thrust face and 90 degrees from there. I also measure from several distances from the top of the cylinder.
2 stroke tip for the future; Never pry the case halves apart with a screwdriver or anything else, unless there are pry tabs in the casting. Still could warp the cases. Prying them apart causes scratches and could cause gouges which will allow air to leak in and out of the crank cases. I rebuilt an IT200 that was given to me in a basket and didn't realize someone had pried the cases apart and warped them. Couldn't find any deep gouges, but did find the tell tale scratches. The scratches probably didn't cause the leak, but the warping did and I could not make the engine run without oil being sucked into the crank case, from the transmission, and mixing with the air/fuel/2-stroke oil mixture. Had to buy some machinist straight edge (bars) to check the cases for warpage. If you don't have a case splitter/puller, you can put bolts in the threaded holes and rig something such as a sliding dent puller to them and gently coax the halves apart, going from bolt to bolt. Anyway, can't wait to see this machine digging trenches in the asphalt. 2-stroke fan forever.
Vintage 2T motorcycle ethusiast here. First off, happy Two Stroke Tuesday! Second, welcome to the world of pressurized crankcases! Many an old two stroke engine has seized due to a leaking seal, which gives the engine a path to draw in fresh air from a place that is clearly not the intake tract. If the leak is bad enough it can lean out the mixture enough to starve the bearings and overcook your turkey (and nobody likes choking down dry bird). Gotta keep the juices inside to keep a 2 stroke tasty. Flavor lock. ®
I knew the 440 had more potential, yes, get some more appropriate gearing for the kart, and she will easily challenge the Yard Dart, maybe even beat it. Way to go Charles, you did a great job on that 2 stroke engine, you're better than you think.
Let a 2 stroke warm up before reving it. Easy way to cold seize it. The piston expands faster than the cylinder. Just a tip for longevity. But that thing does look fun
It's so awesome to see Charles get more and more comfortable on camera, and bring his knowledge and experience to the channel. I'll be honest, I wasn't 100% sure when he first joined the channel, but it's clear to me now that he's a fantastic addition. Thank you Charles!
No body ever seems to mention this but if you take a Dremel with a wheel to it and notch out a place for the sealer to well sit and seal.. it's almost 100% bound to seal. Now don't go grinding down the case just notch a slight lip inthe two corespondents and boom youve got an actual place for sealer to sit Insteadnof trying to not tighten and let it seal and then tighten after it's cured. 90% of time it does not work. Notch the cases for the sealer. Or look further for a case gasket. Alotof em r out there some yes they don't exist but alot do just with the entire kit not sold alone.
Charles, great job sealing up that 2 stroke! Loved your "Salt Water Weld" explanation on how tight the clutch was ! haha! Being a gear head myself, I totally understood ! She's running MUCH better all sealed up. And John had a great observation with the clutch weights. A heavier weight would engage sooner-tighter on the belt, but the driven pully may need a new spring kit also. Torque convertors are awesome, and sometimes slippy..lol. The belt width also comes into play. Anywho...great show guys! peace
I like this pattern of starting out by performing a small repair and it slowly turning into a full engine rebuild. I'm having the same thing on my Tomos rn lol.
2 stokes are a blast. Im from Wisconsin and i've had a few snowmobiles in my day and Im telling you boys you need to plan a trip to the U.P. Michigan snowmobiling this winter. You can rent sleds and all the gear you'll need to survive the cold plus plenty of places to stay. These new 2 and 4 stroke sleds can put you right off the seat if your not hanging on!!!
Glad you started with the reason why this isn't a drag rail video...that thing has always been a fav..think you need to buy a rear engine jr. dragster frame ...i have nightmares of something in that front engine coming apart and someone (Ike) losing body parts (sausage and cheeseballs)...stay safe and have fun ya'll i am back to finish the vid
When Charles first joined the channel permanently, I thought that it ruined the feel of the video. I couldn't be more wrong. He is an AMAZING addition to the channel! He makes the videos 10 times better than they were. Btw, the vids are awesome and keep getting better! I've been watching since 2015 and it's came a long way. Keep up the good work!
Hey guys, you can also add heavier weights to you clutch to get that clutch to engage in a higher RPM and keep that belt from slipping easier. Those weights that fell out during rebuilding the engine. Lol Good job guys.
Belt is slipping because of the misalignment. Using the original secondary, which opens opposite of the primary... big no-no. Secondary also isn't able to handle the torque. Also using a symmetrical snowmobile belt, right for primary wrong for secondary.
I am always so happy when I see you have a new video! I swapped a 3 1/2 hours Briggs to a 13 hp Honda on an old basic 70’s go cart when my daughter was around 9 years old. I bypassed the governor with a lever we affectionately called “the joy button”. They were grading for the new interstate bypass going right through our neighborhood so we would ride with her in my lap for miles on the dirt highway at 30+ mph every couple days for months. We had so many laughs and great times making memories that we still laugh about. Every time I watch you guys I think about the fun we had and I am going to start looking for one for my grandchildren and I and my daughter and them to make memories with! I own 11 acres now and they have 4 both of which offer lots of opportunities. We have had a few 4 wheelers and a dirt bike but you just can’t beat a good go cart especially when it is over powered! 😂
Congratulations Charles on your first 2 stroke repairs. Great video. You guys make a great team. Charles is an incredible addition. He has brought a lot of talent to the table. Keep the videos coming.
Loved this episode !!! Charles, you done a fantastic job. Cars and cameras is blessed to have you. John , Thank you for your time and effort to provide great content !!!!
How cool would it be if these guys when full top gear. Build offs, customizing purchased carts, bikes and quads, race adventures etc. I bet this channel would explode
2 strokes are super simple to rebuild. I use to do a full rebuild on my RM250 2 stoke dirtbike every race season. I would do the top end every few weekends depending on how many races. With my KTM 450 4 strokes it's such a pain that I have a mechanic with me at the races. Yall should do a cross cart with a 250 2-stroke dirtbike engine. It would be so loud and obnoxiously fun! lol
My first " adventure " into mechanics was a fairly worn Opel Gt . This was like a crash course because at first getting from point A to point B without yanking out my tool box was a miracle ...But it taught me a lot . Like it's easier to cut it some slack than to freeze my ass off on the side of the road working on it . After 1 motor and a new transmission it was a really fun car to drive . I raced a 280z through an area we called sleepy hollow . It's ( was in 77') a perfectly smooth , new black top road with amazing curves and a few curved downhills that took your breath away . It then broke into a straight that was about an eighth of a mile... then a hard sweeping left that I pitched the GT sideways hugging the inside ( four wheels sqeeling ) over a low bridge where all four wheels went airborne a little chirp of the rear wheels to a long straight where the bigger engine 280Z pulled me badly . Funny thing was ...my friend had literally dug his fingers into the dash and the guy in the 280 was PISSED ! Huh...go figure . Anyway I had a blast ! I had intended to talk about delving into 2 strokes but I got lost into a memory ...That will happen when you get older like me and have all these race stories to tell . Damn those were good days . PK
The engine is running better because you put in new seals and gaskets. It is no longer sucking in air or leaking while it's running. Older two-strokes are simple things because there's no power valves or R.A.V.E valves (If it's a Rotax) to adjust or dial-in like newer two-strokes and they're very easy to fix once you've done it a couple of times. But they absolutely hate leaks from anywhere because it leans out the fuel mixture. Unlike a 4-stroke engine that relies on intake and exhaust valves in the head a two-stroke does all of its' breathing and venting through the crank case. :)
First off Congrats for Charles on rebuilding that engine. Do what ever you need to do gearing wise but definitely continue with your plans on that three way competition since it also means repairing the original.
When you hear charles talking about when the powerband kicks in it doesn't because if you look at your exhaust pipe. There is no expansion chamber as on a two stroke dirt bike the pipe on the 440 engine is made to provide a steady increase in revs from bottom ro top rpm sofry charles you got it wrong John...Australia... Love the show as always😎😎
The exhaust on the cart is from a ski doo snowmobile should be close enough for this engine. If this engine is out of a Arctic cat ( used by Cat, kawasaki and John deere) snowmobile as it says on the recoil then it would have had a "can" muffler with no expansion chamber per say. You are correct in saying this engine is of a mild tune and makes decent power from 3000 to 6800 rpm and puts out 36 to 38 hp depending on exhaust and carb configuration.
Another way to get the Drive clutch off the engine but onky works in the winter. Find a bolt that fits the threads and get the teflon tape. Fill the hole with water and run the bolt in. Park the sled outside and go in for the night. 9 times out of 10 the clutch will be laying in the pan in the morning. I've cut more than one off an engine with a 4" grinder too tho. You guys got lucky, especially with your "spacer". Was on the edge of my seat for that one.
Charles has turned out to be an excellent fit for your crew, top notch mechanical skill and a good sense of humor, thanks guys for a very entertaining and educational video.
One warning about using RTV or silicone to seal up 2 stroke crank cases...... ethanol contaminated fuel rapidly dissolves & washes away RTV & silicone engine sealants. I learn from bad experience, having had to re-rebuild three 125cc 2 stroke road bike engines, that were run on E5 for nearly 50 miles, when they began sucking & burning gearbox oil. On splitting the cases, I noticed that all the RTV sealant, around the crannk cases, was gone. Since then, I only use engine sealants, stamped as being ethanol resistant, such as Blue Hylomar.
i went blind into rebuilding a 97 RM250. FULL rebuild. all crank bearings, transmission bearings, and seals. Talk about a learning experience. Blind bearings are no fun.
Sounds like a dialed snowmachine. There is an unmistakable sound those motors make. Nothing like the smell of two stroke exhaust on the air during a Michigan winter from a snowmobile.
really? going around the engine cases and prying with a screwdriver is "perfectly" I was literally scream at the screan for him to stop doing that.... But other than that he did a good job. I have bought and fixed so many basket cases of dirtbikes where kids(and grownups) have ruined so many engine cases just by prying with a screwdriver. not good, not good at all...
@@supertedogpriken yeah some things require a gentle screwdriver pry. I did cringe when he tried to beat it In there but with no guidance first time it wasn’t the worst I’ve seen by far Also how many dirtbikes because I work on pit bikes all the time and the janky shit I’ve seen one my own 110 alone is sooo bad
@@Echocompany2-7 i havee 10 bikes in my collection right now, and have probably owned 25-30 others and most of them i buy as basket cases just to get them cheap(so i can buy even more bikes) And there has been some stupid shit in there. One bike i had, the nut for the gear on the flywheel(clutch side) was welded on. have also had a bike with the clutch and flywheel nut welded on.... several kick and gear levers that had been welded on and front sprockert that has been welded on... and other suprises as a home made front brake lever made out of a 10mm aluminium plate. looked like they only used an angle grinder to make it. have seen engine seals put in the wrong way and sadly alot of engine cases and other sealing surfaces ruined by screwdrivers, knifes and/or hammer hits...
@@supertedogpriken holy shit basket case is an understatement for that I hope I never run into something that janky. But one thing I have seen it was a pw80 with a completely custom skid plate it was kinda impressive actually but it was welded to the case instead of the frame
Tinman saws here on TH-cam is a great resource for 2 strokes. The case is the intake so being resealed woke it back up. That's my very basic understanding of how 2 strokes work. He's a great teacher I suggest watching some of his videos
Belts are always a bit loose, don't need to be banjo string tight. You're on the right track. Hint: they're using a gokart secondary clutch, original to the cart... - secondary opens opposite of primary, leading to massive misalignment - secondary works with an assymmetrical belt, theyre using a symmetrical snowmobile belt. Surprised they haven't rolled it yet. - secondary isn't rated to handle that much torque. Honestly surprised it hasn't locked open.
You can also use teflon tape on the driving clutch bolt and some water to pop that primary clutch off. I just did this on my 440 swapped Yerfdog build! You guys are the inspiration so thanks!
Man you can tell that it’s way happier after the rebuild. It’s not having vacuum leaks now unlike before and can fully accept the throttle input. Looks like a beast
I have been watching forever you guy's are the reason i got a mini bike and now I'm 18 and about to pick up a 1968 1100cc honda shadow time goes by fast man.
the weights are there to adjust "gearing" lower weights equals higher rpm when the cvt starts shifting but go to low and your not fully utilizing the cvt band and it will not variate
@@bryduhbikeguy they won't even listen about the secondary clutch being the source of all the "gearing" issues and belt slipping. Good luck getting them to listen about actual technical things like clutch weights...
@@Unending_One they don’t have a clue about clutch tuning. It has nothing to do with their gearing. They need to learn clutch tuning. It’s not exactly new to them they just never learned. I know CVTech trailbloc clutches like the back of my hand I could most likely help them even tho they are using a different clutch it’s all similar. If they would reach out to me or bill we could help them and that thing would be a monster.
Not an engine rebuild, but glad you decided to split the cases. Watching people try to smash 2stroke crank seals in without splitting the cases is like watching a train wreck. For the record, if you have a 2stroke that sits for years without running, always change the crank seals unless you like melted pistons.
Don't know if your interested in this but I used to lead weld. What we would do on the centrifical clutches is drill a long hole parallel to the outer edge of the weights and weld lead in them to make them heavier causing a quicker tighter clutch response.
I've been searching for info on this in preparation for a 440 swap on a hammerhead 150gy6.. From the research I've dug up they recommend the length between the center of the drive pulley to the driven pulley center should be 12" and that the back side of the drive to the driven should be offset 5/8".. not sure if this helps with the belt slip situation or not but I thought I'd throw that in as a suggestion... love the videos and what you do. KEEP UP THE GREAT JOB GUYS!
I’ve been watching for a long time and I think alot of people would agree Charles has been a amazing add to the team . I love the videos and can’t wait for the next ones to come out , keep it up
Do a plug read since you removed your leaks ... it may be rich. Also, you should lap the taper on the crank/variator surface ... it should run perfectly true. I had total faith in you Charles, good job!
It doesn't matter how bad the day is getting. I swear whenever I see the notification I look at the thumbnail and title before getting super excited about today's video. And as always I'm in a great mood now.
Quiktip for getting off a clutch when your removal bolt isn’t long enough, put two or three wraps of Teflon tape around the threads of the pulled, and tip the motor on its side pour in two or 3 ounces of water inside the clutch bolt hole and then insert the clutch puller bolt and drive it in the compression of the water will release the clutch
I have about a dozen of those primary clutch tools. you shouldn't use an impact wrench on them. it can destroy the threads. it's not unusual for the primary clutch to really be stuck on the tapered crankshaft. also crankshaft failures are pretty common on twin cylinder snowmobile engines. you need to make sure to check the crankshaft before reassembling the engine.
U can also change the weights in primary clutch to increase engagement rpm. Also u can change spring size and or helix in secondary clutch to adjust up ans downshift of secondary. Many times clutching will net far better results than gearing change. Also the marketplace for used clutches and parts is huge and very affordable
If you guys get this this tuned properly you are going to be fricken amazed at the performance. It is pretty far from running in its powerband right now. Keep givin'er guys👍
The reason it runs better after a gasket job is 2 strokes need a perfectly sealed engine to operate right, if you have air leaks in your gaskets it will run lean and thus down on power. You should re-tune your carb and make sure everything is kosher, but otherwise great video guys.
That engine plus that frame looks like it's going to be crazy good fun! I'm going to bet that it'll give the CrossCart a good run for the money! Great work guys!
Old or hard ridden 2 cycles almost always run better after a reseal. the seal always leak before blowing. Now that you have done one the next one will be a lot easier. it looked like the clutch was a bigger problem than getting the seals in and out. great job. next step is port and polish.
They're ignoring the fact they're pairing a snowmobile clutch with a cheapo original gokart one. Or atleast it appears they are as they don't even care to look at that.
@6:00 that inner bearing race on the crank shaft after you popped the seal out looked like an egg shaped hole and appeared to have a gap on the right hand side on screen
I have a kilowatt build going on right now, predator 420 with 40 series, stage 1 performance kit from GoPowerSports with Harley exhaust, all new bearings, added extra coil and voltage regulator, LED light bar kit and a 5 star harness upgrade. I'm almost there thank you for all the vids to help my build along the way. You guys and Gopowersports have really been a great profit for me. Thank YoU again
Now this one one of your best! You two together are fantastic on cam. Fun to watch. What a beast now! You guys could always experiment with new variator weights in that clutch assembly! Maybe you can get it to engage a bit softer to ease up on the belt?
I love these engine rebuilds and upgrades you do on the engines you work on. As somebody who does that myself, it is interesting seeing other peoples techniques on rebuilding engines. Keep up the engine fixing!
It performs better because it isn't losing crankcase air/full mixture charge through bad lower crank seals and the head gasket isn't leaking. 2 strokes have to have a completely sealed engine to run as they are intended and if not, you will be trying to tune out problems that will come and go.
Clutch will polish themselves out in time inner well of clutch walls. Unpolish them with 300 or 200 grit sand paper. This will help with more grip from slippages as well. Do no do excessive sanding just enough to show scratches like as enough for paint to bond with bare metal. Smoother the metal the mor slip rough surface areas more grip. Simple way crank engine over at idle use. Sand paper in inner well of clutch untill polishe are looks like rough surface area. Do same as for other pulley assembly as well but spinning rear tires. Remember as best put a cover over the belt system and guards to prevent water oil and other debris from contact with belt.
With a crank seal leaking you were likely running lean and with the head gasket leaking you likely were loosing a bit of compression. Those seals are are VERY important on a 2 stroke. In a 4 stroke you just leak oil, but on a 2 stroke you leak power.
Considering the way it's done from the factory and since it's tuned for sub-freezing temps.. Ain't no way it was running lean. It was running rich as hell it just has blown seals so was loosing even more power that it already was. People have been saying since they start they need to re-jet it, the belt needs to be fixed because it's off and twisting which is why it is eating them. Plus the clutch itself needs some proper adjusting.
@@SilvaDreams The bad seals on the crank allow air to be sucked in to the crankcase, bypassing the carb. This leans out the engine. If it was crazy rich there would be gobs of oil in the crankcase.
Hello! I'm a professional vintage snowmobile mechanic, and I just wanted to say y'all are doing a good job with that engine, but I have a few suggestions.
#1 That engine will never make 40hp in summer, the way the carb, ignition timing, compression ratio and pipe are set up for dry cool winter air, if you want to make the true power of that engine while still being reliable something called a "grass drag tune" can be done. Since that is an AC440 engine it is likely that the information on how to do it is already on the internet.
#2 The primary clutch on that engine is a comet 94c duster there is a ton of resources and charts to tune one on the internet as well as very good parts availability (for a vintage sled clutch) the number and size of the weights along with the main spring can be changed to get specific engagement and acceleration characteristics to match the power band of the engine.
#3 The belt is more than likely getting hot due to misalignment not bad gearing, snowmobile clutches require very precise alignment to be efficient. This requires special alignment bars and small shims to adjust the placement of the secondary clutch on the jack shaft. it is likely that a big portion of the engines power is being waited on heating up the belt and clutches instead of going to the wheels.
Best of luck on all your projects, loving the 2 stroke builds.
It would make a world of difference if they would turn the driven the way it is supposed to go! They have it set up Like a 30 series asymmetrical belt not Like a 20 , 40 and all others with a symmetrical belt . The way they have it at anything over slow speeds the belt is getting twisted into an " S "
It would be wise to compression test the engine and also set Ike up with a jet kit from Sigma
You should upload videos about 2 strokes. You sound like you have a mountain of information.
I was thinking that the weights and spring might help more than the gears also but I know very little about any of it what I know comes from watching this type stuff and reading comments. But I am glad that I wasn't totally full of crap
I was thinking the same thing!! Needs some belt alignment work
sure is nice to have Charles on the Cars and Cameras Channel. When Ike isn't around work can still be done on the machines. John makes a good manager and buisness operator and promoter. If all three stick to what they do best this channel will be around for a long time
Charles's is the mini Ike of mini bikes.. an absolute asset to the team!!
It's always great seeing Ike and Charles's tear down an engine and rebuild it, even better when it's all three and the wise cracks are flying. Keep up the great work gents.
We’re getting this project dialed! It’s so much faster already!
When the crank seals in a two stroke go out it sucks air in the crank case , and thats why it runs way better the seals were bad
You guys should get a Honda CR80 ,or 85 engine and build a shifter kart very popular build and tryst me you will get tons of views 😉
John, I want to see a 1996 to 2002 RM 250 2-stroke in a cross-kart with a pro-circuit pipe. They were the fastest bone stock engines and actually still are. During those years Suzuki made a gem of an engine that killed the competition.
@@FarmerFpv 1986 ,and 2001 CR250 are faster
Keep a parts price list
Since You fix the seals in this two-stroke. It Caused your idle to go down because you have less air leaks. When you start a two stroke engine try to refrain from revving the engine too much. You can get a condition called a cold seize. That is when the piston heats up faster than the cylinder wall.
That cylinder is so worn out I doubt it could seize. LOL
@@kurtyoung6769 Most of the wear would be on the thrust faces of the cylinder. The rest of the cylinder would still be close to manufacturing specs. That's why I always measure the cylinder's diameter across both the thrust face and 90 degrees from there. I also measure from several distances from the top of the cylinder.
I'd watch an entire engine rebuild series hosted by Charles, dude knows what he's talking about and has the personality for it
Looking good boys!
Aha I found you
Charles deserves a raise
One thing I love about this channel is it’s just 3 guys in the shop any of them could be the star of the show or the cameraman
I agree ☝️
2 stroke tip for the future; Never pry the case halves apart with a screwdriver or anything else, unless there are pry tabs in the casting. Still could warp the cases. Prying them apart causes scratches and could cause gouges which will allow air to leak in and out of the crank cases. I rebuilt an IT200 that was given to me in a basket and didn't realize someone had pried the cases apart and warped them. Couldn't find any deep gouges, but did find the tell tale scratches. The scratches probably didn't cause the leak, but the warping did and I could not make the engine run without oil being sucked into the crank case, from the transmission, and mixing with the air/fuel/2-stroke oil mixture. Had to buy some machinist straight edge (bars) to check the cases for warpage. If you don't have a case splitter/puller, you can put bolts in the threaded holes and rig something such as a sliding dent puller to them and gently coax the halves apart, going from bolt to bolt. Anyway, can't wait to see this machine digging trenches in the asphalt. 2-stroke fan forever.
Vintage 2T motorcycle ethusiast here. First off, happy Two Stroke Tuesday! Second, welcome to the world of pressurized crankcases! Many an old two stroke engine has seized due to a leaking seal, which gives the engine a path to draw in fresh air from a place that is clearly not the intake tract. If the leak is bad enough it can lean out the mixture enough to starve the bearings and overcook your turkey (and nobody likes choking down dry bird). Gotta keep the juices inside to keep a 2 stroke tasty. Flavor lock. ®
I knew the 440 had more potential, yes, get some more appropriate gearing for the kart, and she will easily challenge the Yard Dart, maybe even beat it. Way to go Charles, you did a great job on that 2 stroke engine, you're better than you think.
Let a 2 stroke warm up before reving it. Easy way to cold seize it. The piston expands faster than the cylinder. Just a tip for longevity. But that thing does look fun
Even worse with a forged piston.
They dont want to hear that. That's like them finding a junkyard engine, get it running, run a lap, THEN change the oil....
Nice work Charles! Comin' thru in the clutch!
Awesomely righteous build❤
Nice work, Charles! And yes, more yard kart action!
It's so awesome to see Charles get more and more comfortable on camera, and bring his knowledge and experience to the channel. I'll be honest, I wasn't 100% sure when he first joined the channel, but it's clear to me now that he's a fantastic addition. Thank you Charles!
Never use silicone on 2 stroke crank case halves if anything use Yamabond.
Ever looked into what's in the two ? Ingredient wise
Ever looked into what's in the two ? Ingredient wise
No body ever seems to mention this but if you take a Dremel with a wheel to it and notch out a place for the sealer to well sit and seal.. it's almost 100% bound to seal. Now don't go grinding down the case just notch a slight lip inthe two corespondents and boom youve got an actual place for sealer to sit Insteadnof trying to not tighten and let it seal and then tighten after it's cured. 90% of time it does not work. Notch the cases for the sealer. Or look further for a case gasket. Alotof em r out there some yes they don't exist but alot do just with the entire kit not sold alone.
Charles, great job sealing up that 2 stroke! Loved your "Salt Water Weld" explanation on how tight the clutch was ! haha! Being a gear head myself, I totally understood ! She's running MUCH better all sealed up. And John had a great observation with the clutch weights. A heavier weight would engage sooner-tighter on the belt, but the driven pully may need a new spring kit also. Torque convertors are awesome, and sometimes slippy..lol. The belt width also comes into play. Anywho...great show guys! peace
I like this pattern of starting out by performing a small repair and it slowly turning into a full engine rebuild. I'm having the same thing on my Tomos rn lol.
what model do you have? i have 2 puch maxis (80 and 85) and a General 5-star
We sure do live in a weird age where people think that a set of seals and gaskets constitutes a "full engine rebuild".
@@jonfeuerborn5859 They called it that, not me lol
@@RoadRusters an '08 Quadro but there's not a lot of Quadro left in it lol
@@onlyifusayplz5407 Lol. I know. Just riffin' off ya. 😂
Great job guys....everything well dun !!
Nice job Charles 👍😎
Charles is definitely a great addition to your team
I wish you guys would do more 2 strokes. They're inefficient, smokey, loud, oily, and dirty, but they're FAST! That engine is built to scream.
Speaking of that ... I was thinking the fuel tank is a few gallons short of a full day ride.
2 stokes are a blast. Im from Wisconsin and i've had a few snowmobiles in my day and Im telling you boys you need to plan a trip to the U.P. Michigan snowmobiling this winter. You can rent sleds and all the gear you'll need to survive the cold plus plenty of places to stay. These new 2 and 4 stroke sleds can put you right off the seat if your not hanging on!!!
Glad you started with the reason why this isn't a drag rail video...that thing has always been a fav..think you need to buy a rear engine jr. dragster frame ...i have nightmares of something in that front engine coming apart and someone (Ike) losing body parts (sausage and cheeseballs)...stay safe and have fun ya'll i am back to finish the vid
When Charles first joined the channel permanently, I thought that it ruined the feel of the video. I couldn't be more wrong. He is an AMAZING addition to the channel! He makes the videos 10 times better than they were. Btw, the vids are awesome and keep getting better! I've been watching since 2015 and it's came a long way. Keep up the good work!
Hey guys, you can also add heavier weights to you clutch to get that clutch to engage in a higher RPM and keep that belt from slipping easier. Those weights that fell out during rebuilding the engine. Lol Good job guys.
Belt is slipping because of the misalignment. Using the original secondary, which opens opposite of the primary... big no-no. Secondary also isn't able to handle the torque. Also using a symmetrical snowmobile belt, right for primary wrong for secondary.
I am always so happy when I see you have a new video! I swapped a 3 1/2 hours Briggs to a 13 hp Honda on an old basic 70’s go cart when my daughter was around 9 years old. I bypassed the governor with a lever we affectionately called “the joy button”. They were grading for the new interstate bypass going right through our neighborhood so we would ride with her in my lap for miles on the dirt highway at 30+ mph every couple days for months. We had so many laughs and great times making memories that we still laugh about. Every time I watch you guys I think about the fun we had and I am going to start looking for one for my grandchildren and I and my daughter and them to make memories with! I own 11 acres now and they have 4 both of which offer lots of opportunities. We have had a few 4 wheelers and a dirt bike but you just can’t beat a good go cart especially when it is over powered! 😂
Congratulations Charles on your first 2 stroke repairs. Great video. You guys make a great team. Charles is an incredible addition. He has brought a lot of talent to the table. Keep the videos coming.
Loved this episode !!! Charles, you done a fantastic job. Cars and cameras is blessed to have you. John , Thank you for your time and effort to provide great content !!!!
How cool would it be if these guys when full top gear. Build offs, customizing purchased carts, bikes and quads, race adventures etc. I bet this channel would explode
Charles is a perfect fit with Jon and Issac! I really like his attitude and humor. Keep up the good work!
2 strokes are super simple to rebuild. I use to do a full rebuild on my RM250 2 stoke dirtbike every race season. I would do the top end every few weekends depending on how many races. With my KTM 450 4 strokes it's such a pain that I have a mechanic with me at the races. Yall should do a cross cart with a 250 2-stroke dirtbike engine. It would be so loud and obnoxiously fun! lol
Charles is the soul of the team lol
My first " adventure " into mechanics was a fairly worn Opel Gt . This was like a crash course because at first getting from point A to point B without yanking out my tool box was a miracle ...But it taught me a lot . Like it's easier to cut it some slack than to freeze my ass off on the side of the road working on it . After 1 motor and a new transmission it was a really fun car to drive . I raced a 280z through an area we called sleepy hollow . It's ( was in 77') a perfectly smooth , new black top road with amazing curves and a few curved downhills that took your breath away . It then broke into a straight that was about an eighth of a mile... then a hard sweeping left that I pitched the GT sideways hugging the inside ( four wheels sqeeling ) over a low bridge where all four wheels went airborne a little chirp of the rear wheels to a long straight where the bigger engine 280Z pulled me badly . Funny thing was ...my friend had literally dug his fingers into the dash and the guy in the 280 was PISSED ! Huh...go figure . Anyway I had a blast ! I had intended to talk about delving into 2 strokes but I got lost into a memory ...That will happen when you get older like me and have all these race stories to tell . Damn those were good days . PK
Bravo Charles! As a viewer I think he needs a break, spend a few days with his baby and baby mama. Hes become a very important asset. Treat him good !
Love it when you break stuff and then improve it! And yes refresh all the cross carts and send em!
The engine is running better because you put in new seals and gaskets. It is no longer sucking in air or leaking while it's running. Older two-strokes are simple things because there's no power valves or R.A.V.E valves (If it's a Rotax) to adjust or dial-in like newer two-strokes and they're very easy to fix once you've done it a couple of times. But they absolutely hate leaks from anywhere because it leans out the fuel mixture. Unlike a 4-stroke engine that relies on intake and exhaust valves in the head a two-stroke does all of its' breathing and venting through the crank case. :)
First off Congrats for Charles on rebuilding that engine. Do what ever you need to do gearing wise but definitely continue with your plans on that three way competition since it also means repairing the original.
He did great, but it wasn’t a rebuild, just a reseal.
When you hear charles talking about when the powerband kicks in it doesn't because if you look at your exhaust pipe. There is no expansion chamber as on a two stroke dirt bike the pipe on the 440 engine is made to provide a steady increase in revs from bottom ro top rpm sofry charles you got it wrong
John...Australia...
Love the show as always😎😎
The exhaust on the cart is from a ski doo snowmobile should be close enough for this engine. If this engine is out of a Arctic cat ( used by Cat, kawasaki and John deere) snowmobile as it says on the recoil then it would have had a "can" muffler with no expansion chamber per say.
You are correct in saying this engine is of a mild tune and makes decent power from 3000 to 6800 rpm and puts out 36 to 38 hp depending on exhaust and carb configuration.
Another way to get the Drive clutch off the engine but onky works in the winter. Find a bolt that fits the threads and get the teflon tape. Fill the hole with water and run the bolt in. Park the sled outside and go in for the night. 9 times out of 10 the clutch will be laying in the pan in the morning.
I've cut more than one off an engine with a 4" grinder too tho. You guys got lucky, especially with your "spacer". Was on the edge of my seat for that one.
Charles has turned out to be an excellent fit for your crew, top notch mechanical skill and a good sense of humor, thanks guys for a very entertaining and educational video.
One warning about using RTV or silicone to seal up 2 stroke crank cases...... ethanol contaminated fuel rapidly dissolves & washes away RTV & silicone engine sealants. I learn from bad experience, having had to re-rebuild three 125cc 2 stroke road bike engines, that were run on E5 for nearly 50 miles, when they began sucking & burning gearbox oil. On splitting the cases, I noticed that all the RTV sealant, around the crannk cases, was gone.
Since then, I only use engine sealants, stamped as being ethanol resistant, such as Blue Hylomar.
i went blind into rebuilding a 97 RM250. FULL rebuild. all crank bearings, transmission bearings, and seals. Talk about a learning experience. Blind bearings are no fun.
Charles: Holy cow!
Go Kart: Moo moo
Sounds like a dialed snowmachine. There is an unmistakable sound those motors make. Nothing like the smell of two stroke exhaust on the air during a Michigan winter from a snowmobile.
You scored a Home Run when Charles was added to the show. He's a natural technician, and a has a great personality.
Keep up the content, you guys are awesome!
I want the triple threat challenge!! Good job Charles 👍👍👍
My dad works on these style two stroke engines a lot and I’ve learned a ton from him I promise you as a first build he did perfectly
really? going around the engine cases and prying with a screwdriver is "perfectly" I was literally scream at the screan for him to stop doing that.... But other than that he did a good job. I have bought and fixed so many basket cases of dirtbikes where kids(and grownups) have ruined so many engine cases just by prying with a screwdriver. not good, not good at all...
@@supertedogpriken yeah some things require a gentle screwdriver pry. I did cringe when he tried to beat it In there but with no guidance first time it wasn’t the worst I’ve seen by far
Also how many dirtbikes because I work on pit bikes all the time and the janky shit I’ve seen one my own 110 alone is sooo bad
@@supertedogpriken one thing I’ve seen that’s scared me is an ssr 110 had a stock klx 110 shift lever welded to it
@@Echocompany2-7 i havee 10 bikes in my collection right now, and have probably owned 25-30 others and most of them i buy as basket cases just to get them cheap(so i can buy even more bikes) And there has been some stupid shit in there. One bike i had, the nut for the gear on the flywheel(clutch side) was welded on. have also had a bike with the clutch and flywheel nut welded on.... several kick and gear levers that had been welded on and front sprockert that has been welded on... and other suprises as a home made front brake lever made out of a 10mm aluminium plate. looked like they only used an angle grinder to make it. have seen engine seals put in the wrong way and sadly alot of engine cases and other sealing surfaces ruined by screwdrivers, knifes and/or hammer hits...
@@supertedogpriken holy shit basket case is an understatement for that I hope I never run into something that janky. But one thing I have seen it was a pw80 with a completely custom skid plate it was kinda impressive actually but it was welded to the case instead of the frame
Tinman saws here on TH-cam is a great resource for 2 strokes. The case is the intake so being resealed woke it back up. That's my very basic understanding of how 2 strokes work. He's a great teacher I suggest watching some of his videos
Keep up the content guys.
The belt looked to loose and that will also give it a high geared feeling, especially on take off.
Belts are always a bit loose, don't need to be banjo string tight.
You're on the right track. Hint: they're using a gokart secondary clutch, original to the cart...
- secondary opens opposite of primary, leading to massive misalignment
- secondary works with an assymmetrical belt, theyre using a symmetrical snowmobile belt. Surprised they haven't rolled it yet.
- secondary isn't rated to handle that much torque. Honestly surprised it hasn't locked open.
Im from the Netherlands. Never heared the term "Saltwaterwelded". Laught hard at that one. Amazing
You can also use teflon tape on the driving clutch bolt and some water to pop that primary clutch off. I just did this on my 440 swapped Yerfdog build! You guys are the inspiration so thanks!
Hell yeah OG cross cart I want to see that thing come back to life
Man you can tell that it’s way happier after the rebuild. It’s not having vacuum leaks now unlike before and can fully accept the throttle input. Looks like a beast
Charles is a fantastic mechanic
Great work guys more than expected but well worth the extra time n parts 👍
I have been watching forever you guy's are the reason i got a mini bike and now I'm 18 and about to pick up a 1968 1100cc honda shadow time goes by fast man.
The seals are very important on a two stroke, if they are bad they are just not going to preform as the should. Good job guys.
Adapt, improvise, overcome! Right on boys!
the weights are there to adjust "gearing"
lower weights equals higher rpm when the cvt starts shifting
but go to low and your not fully utilizing the cvt band and it will not variate
Several of us asked them to Lower the weights in the Dragster clutch so it will rev before engaging.They don't listen.
@@bryduhbikeguy they won't even listen about the secondary clutch being the source of all the "gearing" issues and belt slipping. Good luck getting them to listen about actual technical things like clutch weights...
@@Unending_One they don’t have a clue about clutch tuning. It has nothing to do with their gearing. They need to learn clutch tuning. It’s not exactly new to them they just never learned. I know CVTech trailbloc clutches like the back of my hand I could most likely help them even tho they are using a different clutch it’s all similar. If they would reach out to me or bill we could help them and that thing would be a monster.
@@R.N.GPerformance thats the fun about cvt's when tuned correctly they can let the engine work at powerband levels from a dig
@@HearsingAround absolutely. It’s an amazing thing.
Not an engine rebuild, but glad you decided to split the cases. Watching people try to smash 2stroke crank seals in without splitting the cases is like watching a train wreck. For the record, if you have a 2stroke that sits for years without running, always change the crank seals unless you like melted pistons.
Don't know if your interested in this but I used to lead weld. What we would do on the centrifical clutches is drill a long hole parallel to the outer edge of the weights and weld lead in them to make them heavier causing a quicker tighter clutch response.
I've been searching for info on this in preparation for a 440 swap on a hammerhead 150gy6.. From the research I've dug up they recommend the length between the center of the drive pulley to the driven pulley center should be 12" and that the back side of the drive to the driven should be offset 5/8".. not sure if this helps with the belt slip situation or not but I thought I'd throw that in as a suggestion... love the videos and what you do. KEEP UP THE GREAT JOB GUYS!
I’ve been watching for a long time and I think alot of people would agree Charles has been a amazing add to the team . I love the videos and can’t wait for the next ones to come out , keep it up
I agree. I like to see him and Ike
Do a plug read since you removed your leaks ... it may be rich.
Also, you should lap the taper on the crank/variator surface ... it should run perfectly true.
I had total faith in you Charles, good job!
it's great fun seeing you guys work on an old sled engine. that thing is right in my wheel house, as I have multiple old sleds from a 1969 to a 1994.
Love the builds you guys do. Learn so much from y'all. But hey John can we see that nice shiny Chevy come out and you give us a run through on that?
It doesn't matter how bad the day is getting. I swear whenever I see the notification I look at the thumbnail and title before getting super excited about today's video. And as always I'm in a great mood now.
Quiktip for getting off a clutch when your removal bolt isn’t long enough, put two or three wraps of Teflon tape around the threads of the pulled, and tip the motor on its side pour in two or 3 ounces of water inside the clutch bolt hole and then insert the clutch puller bolt and drive it in the compression of the water will release the clutch
I have about a dozen of those primary clutch tools. you shouldn't use an impact wrench on them. it can destroy the threads. it's not unusual for the primary clutch to really be stuck on the tapered crankshaft. also crankshaft failures are pretty common on twin cylinder snowmobile engines. you need to make sure to check the crankshaft before reassembling the engine.
More importantly it's good practice to change the center seal! That's normally the one with issues especially on junk Kawasaki engines.
What about picking three builds to bring back and have all of you race an set the cameras on tripods, on the ground, or in trees❕❗️❕❗️
I can not wait to see the OG crosskart back alive!!!
I have the same kilowatt and the first thing I done was placing the seat directly to the floor pan, it made a world of difference in comfort.
I like the yard dart
Bring back the yard dart!!! Very impressive machine
U can also change the weights in primary clutch to increase engagement rpm. Also u can change spring size and or helix in secondary clutch to adjust up ans downshift of secondary. Many times clutching will net far better results than gearing change. Also the marketplace for used clutches and parts is huge and very affordable
If you guys get this this tuned properly you are going to be fricken amazed at the performance. It is pretty far from running in its powerband right now. Keep givin'er guys👍
The reason it runs better after a gasket job is 2 strokes need a perfectly sealed engine to operate right, if you have air leaks in your gaskets it will run lean and thus down on power. You should re-tune your carb and make sure everything is kosher, but otherwise great video guys.
It looks like the clutch is about done by the movement and sound of it also it could use a little more weight in it as well but it’s a freakin rocket
If they weren't using a gokart secondary it'd be fine. Probably wearing out both clutches having the belt so misaligned.
That engine plus that frame looks like it's going to be crazy good fun! I'm going to bet that it'll give the CrossCart a good run for the money! Great work guys!
This build keeps getting better and better! Great job guys!
Old or hard ridden 2 cycles almost always run better after a reseal. the seal always leak before blowing. Now that you have done one the next one will be a lot easier. it looked like the clutch was a bigger problem than getting the seals in and out. great job. next step is port and polish.
They're ignoring the fact they're pairing a snowmobile clutch with a cheapo original gokart one. Or atleast it appears they are as they don't even care to look at that.
@6:00 that inner bearing race on the crank shaft after you popped the seal out looked like an egg shaped hole and appeared to have a gap on the right hand side on screen
I have a kilowatt build going on right now, predator 420 with 40 series, stage 1 performance kit from GoPowerSports with Harley exhaust, all new bearings, added extra coil and voltage regulator, LED light bar kit and a 5 star harness upgrade. I'm almost there thank you for all the vids to help my build along the way. You guys and Gopowersports have really been a great profit for me. Thank YoU again
Now this one one of your best! You two together are fantastic on cam. Fun to watch. What a beast now! You guys could always experiment with new variator weights in that clutch assembly! Maybe you can get it to engage a bit softer to ease up on the belt?
That’s how it’s supposed to sound
I was missing the 2 stroke Murray! It is so iconic. And now it runs like a beast!
Awesome great job Charles 👏
I love these engine rebuilds and upgrades you do on the engines you work on. As somebody who does that myself, it is interesting seeing other peoples techniques on rebuilding engines. Keep up the engine fixing!
Definitely a three way competition all the best
It performs better because it isn't losing crankcase air/full mixture charge through bad lower crank seals and the head gasket isn't leaking. 2 strokes have to have a completely sealed engine to run as they are intended and if not, you will be trying to tune out problems that will come and go.
Love this channel. Thanks for the education.
Clutch will polish themselves out in time inner well of clutch walls. Unpolish them with 300 or 200 grit sand paper. This will help with more grip from slippages as well. Do no do excessive sanding just enough to show scratches like as enough for paint to bond with bare metal. Smoother the metal the mor slip rough surface areas more grip. Simple way crank engine over at idle use. Sand paper in inner well of clutch untill polishe are looks like rough surface area. Do same as for other pulley assembly as well but spinning rear tires. Remember as best put a cover over the belt system and guards to prevent water oil and other debris from contact with belt.
Charles for the win!!! Great video guys!!! 🤙🏾💯
With a crank seal leaking you were likely running lean and with the head gasket leaking you likely were loosing a bit of compression. Those seals are are VERY important on a 2 stroke. In a 4 stroke you just leak oil, but on a 2 stroke you leak power.
Yeap it was definitely sucking air though the seals.
Considering the way it's done from the factory and since it's tuned for sub-freezing temps.. Ain't no way it was running lean. It was running rich as hell it just has blown seals so was loosing even more power that it already was. People have been saying since they start they need to re-jet it, the belt needs to be fixed because it's off and twisting which is why it is eating them. Plus the clutch itself needs some proper adjusting.
@@SilvaDreams The bad seals on the crank allow air to be sucked in to the crankcase, bypassing the carb. This leans out the engine. If it was crazy rich there would be gobs of oil in the crankcase.
Saw this video and had to pull out the go kart me and my friends built with a 488cc Polaris Indy engine this things awesome!
Great job once again like I said in previous videos I can't wait to get my snowmobile go-kart running!!