The thing rattles like a can of paint, hangs together with zip ties and Ductape, has steering like a shopping trolley. Charles; THIS THING IS AWESOME ! !
So cool! Back when I was in my 20s, I road ATVs with 3 other buddies. In addition to my Suzuki Quadracer (250), I also picked up a Honda Odyssey, 250 two stroke, it much like this go cart, but did not have read suspension. It came with wrist straps connect3d to the steering wheel. They prevented the driver from instinctively putting his arm out if the machine started to flip over. Great idea that prevented multiple possible broken arms/hands.
Most everyone I've talked to about snowmobile engines on buggies, they always recommend at least a 10:1 gearing to help with acceleration and extend belt life.
Another big issue that's often overlooked is proper drive-belt tension. A lot of snowmobiles recommend between 1-1.5 inches of play in the drive-belt between the primary and secondary clutch. This is done by laying a straight edge across the belt spanning from the primary to the secondary clutch, then pushing the belt down with a ruler, measuring the slack between the belt and the bottom of the straight edge. You often want to get the belt to squeak from being too tight, then add a tiny bit of slack until it is quiet again. You guys may have a better outcome if you allow either the engine or the secondary clutch to slide forward/backward to adjust the slack.
Doesn't help that these guys are experimenting with homebrew setups with larger sheave spacings and such. These sleds came with a shorter, but much meatier belt out of the factory. I don't think that secondary is big enough for that primary either. When it goes, you can see the belt drop down in the secondary it's not strong enough to keep the belt out.
@@rydplrs71 I've talked with a few dozen people who have built competition buggies using snowmobile engines, 10:1 is the highest they recommend. The reason is the drive wheels on a sled are about 3-4 inches diameter, wheels and tires on a buggy 4-6 times that if not more.
@@Ratkill9000 Bingo. And it doesn't help that they're using a Kawasaki 440, notorious for blowing crank seals causing them to be down on power and/or melt down. I noticed, I don't think they have any rubber engine mounts to dampen the engine's vibration like there should be either. Not good.
Guys!;!!! This build is also a real winner !! ,, I Reckon the build quality of the drive system and suspension and steering along with the brakeing system !!!! Then to watch Ike's ... Run 😳 Through that Forrest section !! Guys This is a very capable cart !! I was watching how connected it was to the driver and it is a desirable design . I Think this is a buitiful build so much infact I'd love one just like it . Soon I can see cars and cameras kit's and plan's , 🤪👍 great content guys !!! You bring the magic of being excited back to me!!! And inspire me so much !!! .
I just think he’s talking out his arse about purposely Misaligning belts. No engineer would build a driven vs driver pulley system or tc that way. I like these guys but the crooked belt explanation was the cringiest thing I’ve seen on c&c
To get more throttle travel you just move the cable up higher on the gas pedal. If you have too much travel you can put an extension spring in line to take up any extra travel.
Maybe they haven't been around snowmobiles enough to know any better? The 'fixed' side of the pulleys need to be opposite of each other. Then the belt will stay in alignment as the sheeves move.
It amazes me that they refuse to put the secondary in the correct orientation. Would be so easy to setup a jackshaft to put the driven clutch on correctly, then the belt would last and not overheat.
Could you flip one of the clutches so they move the same way? And for the gas peddle could you not just move the bar or cable higher up on the peddle for more movement?
Charles and Isaac doing most of the work and john taking alot of the credit Hmm fishy ain't it. Charles is a great help to Isaac on most of the builds his knowledge is amazing, like Isaac.
I own a kilowatt with a built 460 and 780 torque converter and although your idea is the correct setup there isn't enough room to flip the driven around because then you have to move the motor too far to the left and it gets into the frame at that point, these are very tight setups. I'm running mine the same way they're running theirs and it's been fine.
@@Lochlan112 if that’s the case this engine/clutch combination won’t work. Time for another cart or some custom fabrication. Clutch alignment is directly related to belt life, it is what it is.
@@Lochlan112 as the other guy said, then come up with a different setup. There should be plenty of room with modifications as they widened the wheelbase. I burn out belts when my torq-a-verter on my minibike is only off an eighth inch, I can't imagine how fast this will burn them put with it that far.
@@Unending_One Your right there is plenty of room especially since the secondary is lower than the motor. I just put this same setup in the back of a golf cart which is way tighter.
The 440 motor you have is not revving out like a snowmobile motor should. Im not 100% sure if its the gearing either. Before you mess with gearing any more, I would get the slipping belt thing fixed. Convert the belt slipping to tire spinning. Awesome build, thats the way to do it. Always too much motor for the kart, then modify the kart. Love it!!!
Tune the suspension and find the right gearing, you've got a rocket ship just like Ike said. I have no doubt that the Yard Dart's top spot on the leader board will be lost to this beast.
Glad to see the Dirt Hog Tilly on the board... I still say the suspension is to springy it needs more dampening or something. Awesome build 👏 can't wait to see the final product.
You might as well beat your head against the wall! These guys are really not very mechanically inclined, if you haven't figured that after 6 years they STILL make all the same dumb mistakes.
GUYS! Get the sleeve adaptor to use Polaris clutches on that driveshaft. Specific taper alignment blah blah blah. Get the spring and weight kits (EPT Clutch kit). Probably gotta do another belt 🤷 and someone mentioned primary to secondary alignment. Check that too! But yeah I LOVE THIS BUILD!!!!
The secondary clutch needs to be adjusted. The belt should ride about flush with the top of the secondary clutch. This will produce a lower gear ratio. You will have to adjust the sheaves of the clutch closer together.
Have your fixed plates aligned on the converter so they line up across the minimal belt thickness. Theory is the driven will only react from the power, back is reliant on input to the front. Minimize deviation, you can do it.
If you moved the cable attaching point up on the pedal it will give you more throw on the throttle. I built a go cart with a snowmobile engine back in the 80's, it was scary fast! Enjoy your new ride, it's a nice one.
I am so happy to see all this 2 stroke content on your channel. I am really hoping that when you guys get that little kart finnished you do a "big" build with a 8-1200cc Snowmobile engine. And Build a Cross kart to go up against your CB powered kart. NOw that would be amazing to see a 2 stroke VS 4 stroke Cross Kart.
Watching Ike fine tune the throttle mechanism on this thing brings back a lot of child hood memories 🔥👍 I've used trampoline springs for brake return and throttle. 😂 Better than getting the throttle stuck wide open and running into your mom's brand new car 😆 Awesome vid guy's Loved the comparison 🔥👍✌️
Usually the engine is in front of the secondary pulley so I would flip the belt around to work with direction of travel. Also you definitely have to take The glazing off of the clutches whether it’s with emery cloth or light grit sandpaper you will kill every belt you put on there if you don’t get rid of the glaze
Throughout the whole video, I kept thinking that it sounds like the CVT is engaging below the torque band. I think you are on the right track with stiffer springs for the CVT engagement. Can't wait to see top speed and how quick around the track when everything is dialed in.
This buggy is really cool, a light and simple frame with a ton of power is really fun, but you have to adjust the brakes, the rear tires can't lock up before the front.
The rear shocks could be softened a smidge by moving the top shock forward Abit. The video shows kts Abit stif and bouncy in the rear end! Great build, can't wait to watch more!!!!
The shocks are shit. There's basically zero rebound....they are just pogo sticks. These guys need to start putting decent quality shock absorbers on their projects before someone gets seriously hurt.
Ike, I think you could hook a spring through the hole in the throttle rod that the cotter pin was in. Hook it through the end of the rod and attach the other end to a bracket behind the rod so the spring pulls the rod back. Just need to bend a piece of steel , drill a small hole in it and weld it to the frame. Whoop!
I would love to see it on an EXTENDED oval track!! My dads wife had my 400 Panther hauled away (along with everything else I had in storage) the sled was trash but the 400 Kawasaki ran like new.
You can also Mount the seeds straight to the floor pan like I did mine and give you plenty of legroom and don't feel like you're sitting up in the sky anymore. I've got a pro car race seat in mine but mouse up the same way as the original tracks.
Great video. Looks like a fun ride. You can make gearing changes and that'll change your top speed but I think if you want it really make a significant change to your track time you're going to need to work on suspension. You're having to get out of the throttle because of the bumps so you just need more travel in your suspension and even better tires for traction. That way you can stay in the throttle in the wheels will always be on the ground gaining more speed.
I would LOVE it if y’all could get ahold of all the old 2 stroke racing quads/3 wheelers and play with them. LT500 Quadzillas, Banshees, Blasters, 250Rs, etc. ALSO would be awesome to see you restore an old Odyssey fl250, fl350, or an fl400 pilot. I know those are all rare, but y’all have the means now!!
You need a piece of steel stock like 1/4" to 3/8" straight edge that you can use to line up the clutches and should stop it from chewing up belts. You place it all the way down to the shaft on the clutch on motor and if I recall my schooling and it must rest up against the inside edge then open up the drive/rear clutch and place the straight edge down in it to the shaft. When it sits even with no angle or what not then I believe it would be lined up properly. Please forgive me if I'm wrong as it has been a very long time since I went to school for small engine repair.
Look at 16:51. You can see the primary grags like it should then the secondary just opens oaa the way up. If you put a heavier spring in the secondary, it will fix you take off problems. Use you old hearing with new secondary spring and it will be a ripper from dead stop to warp speed!. They make a lot with different springs in them for tuning.... Kinda like how you jet carbs....
I had been a snowmobile enthusiast for about ten years. and worked on CVT systems, and I can tell you that the alignment between the primary clutch and the secondary clutch is crucial. because the belt should stay straight. between both clutches though out the operation of the CVT system. once that is achieved then you have experiment with springs and weights. something else CVT systems need to be vented so they don't overheat. they made kits for snowmobiles to put vents in the chassis and the hood on the sleds.
@@shawnsatterlee6035 Those problems aren't mutually exclusive. They need to flip the driven pulley so that it moves the belt the same way as the drive pulley. I'm guessing they know that though so there's probably a reason that they didn't. Not enough space most likely.
@@Lucas12v if u flip the driven pulley how exactly do u expect to operate as should? Maybe think about it for a second. That or u have no idea how the driven pulley actually works.
@@shawnsatterlee6035 Honestly, i didn't look very closely at the setup they are using but i know cvt's aren't supposed to have the two pulleys move the belt in opposition directions as the rpms come up. The logical assumption is that one of them is on backwards and it can't be the one on the engine. Not all can be on backwards but some can.
Man I love you guys I been watching since the first video ps y’all put out. Watching how much you guys have grown as people and as a channel seeing people come and go along the way and how you went and visited charles one time at the shop he worked at and then he made a few appearances and now… you three are a absolute dream team together. You guys can build anything and make it absolutely rip. Lol. I miss the Ducarti but I understand it’s a pure death trap lol. I used to have a Honda Odyssey. Yellow with the half rolecage and one headlight. Pull start 80cc snowmobile motor. I think you guys should find a old odyssey and try to revamp it. Those things are so much fun with the balloon tires and the solid rear axle and front suspension she loves to bounce. Not to mention the dope ass steering wheel that aircraft style with the finger throttle and brake levers. I think y’all should do a odyssey 100 percent. Keep up the dope work gentlemen. From johns parents garage to your own dope ass property into a small cramped old shack of a workspace and now your own giant garage and workshop. Love how you guys have grown as a whole! Thanks for keeping me entertained and always looking forward for the next video!
Looks like some of your bump steer is coming from your sprung spindles. With your front axle tipped back for caster it puts the centerline on your hub off. So when that spindle is going up and down on your kingpin, it’s pulling and pushing the tire in and out in the front. Watched it on the slo mo.
Super Rad build. I want to do one. As others have said, the second clutch needs to be the other way around. The belt will stay in alignment even as the ratio changes. The belt will last alot longer and you'll be wasting less power. 💯
That belt looks a little loose...probably starting in 1st and a half gear... also a tighter spring on the secondary clutch...That will get rid of the rpm drop after launching and let the engine hit peak rpm immediately...Im a snowmobile mechanic in Michigan...awesome build fellas
You boys may want to think about getting a fuel cell and some overalls. Looking at the position of that tank outside the rollcage, in proximity to that hot exhaust gives me the chills. Your engineering work is really improving compared to some of the sketchy stuff I saw when I first started watching. Great to see.
They need at least 10:1. The chain case will give them a 1.3:1 gear multiplication, though I have heard you can add more teeth to help, but I'm not 100% sure because they use a silent chain (timing chain style) and not a roller chain. But it would do them well to try to find that chain case in to help.
Great work guys. I love your content! I might suggest you look at reinforcing the roll cage with the power you are starting yo get. I would hate to see one of you get hurt again if you roll that cart.
A great demonstration in how something so unimportant in the scheme of things and with all the troubles on this planet. CAN BECOME SO IMPORTANT ! Great job guys. I don't think it should be allowed to be Yard Dart though. Make something better for that.
Has anyone mentioned the weld just above the left rear shock mount to the frame? It's just a tack. The front suspension design looks great! I love watching you guys!
At 16:52 you can see the belt is still too long which will explain the bogging and will make you think its gearing after use changed it . I would try that shorter belt
This one's gonna be a winner, I can feel it, but those pulleys just don't seem right, guys. Call me crazy, but I always thought that the fixed side of both pulleys should be on the same side so the alignment isn't constantly changing. Meaning you may need to flip the secondary and realign them. Time to start googling and checking the snowmobile side of YT again.
I know almost nothing about these CVTs and I can tell that you are precisely correct if that is what they have happening now. This CVT obviously isn't working right now. Having the pulleys misaligned, dynamically or otherwise, is maybe about instant death for the belt, too. I think these run steel or kevlar (or something) belts internally, to stay very longitudinally dimensionally stiff, ie not elongate much under load, and to keep the efficiency up.
Just a suggestion regarding safety but I think you should add some crossbars to the top of the roll cage! Maybe even one on each side as well! If that thing's in a rollover those bars that you currently have will bend and buckle! I just want to see y'all safe! It'll be fine only goes so far until your arm is broken or possibly worse next time!
I think it might be time to line your fast parts of the track with some hay bails or tyres. Watching that thing bounce around at 50 mph was making me cringe. That speed into a tree isn’t going to end well. And I want to keep seeing more of this awesome stuff from you guys.
Same thought, I would suggest getting that front end and steering WORKING too, it looks terrible. Fifty into a tree would be a VERY very bad thing. It would definitely leave a mark, so to speak. In the worst smack orientation, it might even be fatal, roll cage or not.
The driven pulley spring should have multiple holes it can be set in to get the proper rotating tension on the movable sheave, as you increase the tension the WOT rpm will increase which should go to max hp rpm any time you are at WOT most snowmobile engines run in the 7400 to 8200 rpm at wide open throttle (WOT) That will also increase the grip tension on the belt and reduce slippage. The rotating tension can be measured with a pull scale attached (clamped) to the outer edge of the movable sheave.
The thing rattles like a can of paint, hangs together with zip ties and Ductape, has steering like a shopping trolley.
Charles; THIS THING IS AWESOME ! !
Please take out the tree that is halfway through the woods on your right hand side. That thing gets me every time!! Love the continent 👍🏼👍🏼
So cool! Back when I was in my 20s, I road ATVs with 3 other buddies. In addition to my Suzuki Quadracer (250), I also picked up a Honda Odyssey, 250 two stroke, it much like this go cart, but did not have read suspension. It came with wrist straps connect3d to the steering wheel. They prevented the driver from instinctively putting his arm out if the machine started to flip over. Great idea that prevented multiple possible broken arms/hands.
My friends got a pilot which had the rear suspension but never gone get it running I bet lol
Charles adds a good energy to the shop.
front-wheel drive, rear steer, articulating go-kart... that's my crazy dream build.
Most everyone I've talked to about snowmobile engines on buggies, they always recommend at least a 10:1 gearing to help with acceleration and extend belt life.
Another big issue that's often overlooked is proper drive-belt tension. A lot of snowmobiles recommend between 1-1.5 inches of play in the drive-belt between the primary and secondary clutch. This is done by laying a straight edge across the belt spanning from the primary to the secondary clutch, then pushing the belt down with a ruler, measuring the slack between the belt and the bottom of the straight edge. You often want to get the belt to squeak from being too tight, then add a tiny bit of slack until it is quiet again. You guys may have a better outcome if you allow either the engine or the secondary clutch to slide forward/backward to adjust the slack.
Doesn't help that these guys are experimenting with homebrew setups with larger sheave spacings and such. These sleds came with a shorter, but much meatier belt out of the factory. I don't think that secondary is big enough for that primary either. When it goes, you can see the belt drop down in the secondary it's not strong enough to keep the belt out.
I agree with Ethan, and John. Hopefully the springs they get will help. I still want a camera on the CVT while driving.
Looks like lots of fun!
@@rydplrs71 I've talked with a few dozen people who have built competition buggies using snowmobile engines, 10:1 is the highest they recommend. The reason is the drive wheels on a sled are about 3-4 inches diameter, wheels and tires on a buggy 4-6 times that if not more.
@@Ratkill9000 Bingo. And it doesn't help that they're using a Kawasaki 440, notorious for blowing crank seals causing them to be down on power and/or melt down. I noticed, I don't think they have any rubber engine mounts to dampen the engine's vibration like there should be either. Not good.
“Keep safety in mind.” OK, full face helmets all the time. You’re not gonna need one until you do. Thanks for another good video!
Last week it was the rat rod cross kart. Now it's the budget cross kart. I ❤️ it regardless.
To increase the throttle pull. just move the cable pivot bolt on the pedal arm up a little higher!
Yeah that's what I thought, but obviously working smarter isn't a thing now a days! Lol
I knew someone would beat me to it
Exactly what I was thinking🇦🇺🇦🇺
Lol, looking for this comment
@@shawnsatterlee6035we all overlook the obvious sometimes. Seemed to me it was about the same amount of work.
You guys are just having tooooo much fun! Charles has added a new dynamic to the party!
Guys!;!!! This build is also a real winner !! ,, I Reckon the build quality of the drive system and suspension and steering along with the brakeing system !!!! Then to watch Ike's ... Run 😳 Through that Forrest section !! Guys This is a very capable cart !! I was watching how connected it was to the driver and it is a desirable design . I Think this is a buitiful build so much infact I'd love one just like it . Soon I can see cars and cameras kit's and plan's , 🤪👍 great content guys !!! You bring the magic of being excited back to me!!! And inspire me so much !!! .
I really like having Charles on the channel.
You need to flip the driven pulley so the belt moves in the same direction on both pulling as you cycle them. That will help alot with the slipping
might be able to move the jack-shaft over enough to fit the gears after the flip too
As soon as he explained the pulley setup I came to see if this was mentioned.
I just think he’s talking out his arse about purposely Misaligning belts. No engineer would build a driven vs driver pulley system or tc that way. I like these guys but the crooked belt explanation was the cringiest thing I’ve seen on c&c
To get more throttle travel you just move the cable up higher on the gas pedal. If you have too much travel you can put an extension spring in line to take up any extra travel.
^^ What upscriber said.
You have to spin your secondary clutch around so the sheeves are in line and the belt only moves up and down.
You Sir took the words right out of my mouth I was gonna mention the same thing have to spin the secondary around.
Yeah to be honest makes me cringe seeing them shrug off the fact the belt is severely misaligned. They wonder why they keep burning belts...
Maybe they haven't been around snowmobiles enough to know any better?
The 'fixed' side of the pulleys need to be opposite of each other. Then the belt will stay in alignment as the sheeves move.
It amazes me that they refuse to put the secondary in the correct orientation. Would be so easy to setup a jackshaft to put the driven clutch on correctly, then the belt would last and not overheat.
It would go way faster too
Could you flip one of the clutches so they move the same way? And for the gas peddle could you not just move the bar or cable higher up on the peddle for more movement?
Charles and Isaac doing most of the work and john taking alot of the credit Hmm fishy ain't it. Charles is a great help to Isaac on most of the builds his knowledge is amazing, like Isaac.
you need to flip your secondary clutch around to get it properly aligned so it will work and last.
Good call. One moves left the other moves right with this setup
I own a kilowatt with a built 460 and 780 torque converter and although your idea is the correct setup there isn't enough room to flip the driven around because then you have to move the motor too far to the left and it gets into the frame at that point, these are very tight setups. I'm running mine the same way they're running theirs and it's been fine.
@@Lochlan112 if that’s the case this engine/clutch combination won’t work. Time for another cart or some custom fabrication. Clutch alignment is directly related to belt life, it is what it is.
@@Lochlan112 as the other guy said, then come up with a different setup. There should be plenty of room with modifications as they widened the wheelbase.
I burn out belts when my torq-a-verter on my minibike is only off an eighth inch, I can't imagine how fast this will burn them put with it that far.
@@Unending_One Your right there is plenty of room especially since the secondary is lower than the motor. I just put this same setup in the back of a golf cart which is way tighter.
Fine tune zip ties, exactly why I watch you guys
You guys always make me smile. Thanks! Also, kudos on this build. I think Ike is correct in calling it a rocketship!
Always looking forward to the awesome videos I’ve got more confidence working on stuff now just by watching all these videos 🤘
“So the two things we’re taking care of, is the belt.” I want a t shirt with that on it.
The McMurry should be called McRowdy. That thing is awesome for its size. Great job guys 🤘
Goodness! You'd better check the welds and the nuts and bolts on this dirt rocket! Great job guys!
Love Ikes smile at 50 mph lol you guys keep bringing it ...thanks for all you do 😂
The 440 motor you have is not revving out like a snowmobile motor should. Im not 100% sure if its the gearing either. Before you mess with gearing any more, I would get the slipping belt thing fixed. Convert the belt slipping to tire spinning. Awesome build, thats the way to do it. Always too much motor for the kart, then modify the kart. Love it!!!
That’s so cool even the engine sounds freaking amazing
If the weather here in Colorado looked that nice right now I'd be doing an engine conversion in my truck as we speak. Love the videos fellers.
Go power sports are good people.
Tune the suspension and find the right gearing, you've got a rocket ship just like Ike said. I have no doubt that the Yard Dart's top spot on the leader board will be lost to this beast.
You guys should look into chain tensioners for your vehicles. It will help keep you from throwing chains!
LOVE THE CHANNEL!
Add secondary spring tension maybe ... allways adjustments to be made great job guys and safety is a goal and budget perfect product congrats !
That looks like way more than 48MPH to me!
Just slightly
It has potential to go way faster!!!! It needs a proper race exhaust, one pipe for each cylinder.
It looks scary as hell to me lol especially with that steering bounce and play. Ahaha going through the Forrest and across the stream. Scaryyyyy lol 😂
Needs a better pipe too!!!
Can also rebuild secondary clutch and put stronger Springs
Charles, don't let office politics keep you from destroying them boys' lap times.
you guys are awesome, been watching yall since the two car garage. thank yall for the videos
Congrats guys, this little kart is going to be fast as hell lol!
Glad to see the Dirt Hog Tilly on the board... I still say the suspension is to springy it needs more dampening or something. Awesome build 👏 can't wait to see the final product.
You might as well beat your head against the wall! These guys are really not very mechanically inclined, if you haven't figured that after 6 years they STILL make all the same dumb mistakes.
@@scotty362100 lol... well said.. they could take lessons from just about every other channel that's doing the same sort of things...
GUYS! Get the sleeve adaptor to use Polaris clutches on that driveshaft. Specific taper alignment blah blah blah. Get the spring and weight kits (EPT Clutch kit). Probably gotta do another belt 🤷 and someone mentioned primary to secondary alignment. Check that too! But yeah I LOVE THIS BUILD!!!!
My favorite yard cart with the 2stroke!
The secondary clutch needs to be adjusted. The belt should ride about flush with the top of the secondary clutch. This will produce a lower gear ratio. You will have to adjust the sheaves of the clutch closer together.
Should actually stick out between 1/16" and 1/8"
Love it guys!! You have been an inspiration!! Btw Ike my girl wants to hear about the swamp houses!! 🤣
Have your fixed plates aligned on the converter so they line up across the minimal belt thickness. Theory is the driven will only react from the power, back is reliant on input to the front. Minimize deviation, you can do it.
you guys drive like you are racing in world rally cup such a skill you have kudos !!
If you moved the cable attaching point up on the pedal it will give you more throw on the throttle. I built a go cart with a snowmobile engine back in the 80's, it was scary fast! Enjoy your new ride, it's a nice one.
I am so happy to see all this 2 stroke content on your channel. I am really hoping that when you guys get that little kart finnished you do a "big" build with a 8-1200cc Snowmobile engine. And Build a Cross kart to go up against your CB powered kart. NOw that would be amazing to see a 2 stroke VS 4 stroke Cross Kart.
Watching Ike fine tune the throttle mechanism on this thing brings back a lot of child hood memories 🔥👍 I've used trampoline springs for brake return and throttle. 😂 Better than getting the throttle stuck wide open and running into your mom's brand new car 😆
Awesome vid guy's Loved the comparison 🔥👍✌️
Usually the engine is in front of the secondary pulley so I would flip the belt around to work with direction of travel. Also you definitely have to take The glazing off of the clutches whether it’s with emery cloth or light grit sandpaper you will kill every belt you put on there if you don’t get rid of the glaze
Throughout the whole video, I kept thinking that it sounds like the CVT is engaging below the torque band. I think you are on the right track with stiffer springs for the CVT engagement. Can't wait to see top speed and how quick around the track when everything is dialed in.
Yes. Engine doesent get to its powerband
Torque band? Lol....
@@shawnsatterlee6035 2stokes have very narrow power area. Usually at relatively high revs.
@@juhomaki-petaja no shit! All I run is 2strokes. He called it a torque band, it's a power band. But obviously that went over your head.
@@shawnsatterlee6035 dont have to be arrogant and rude. Bit wrong term but everyone can understand it.
the 2 stroke race kart needs to be brought back! that thing will be so freaking fast!
"Man that belt is toasted!!! you can flip it all the way around!!!!" ........ "The belt being offset is perfectly fine , not gona hurt a thing"
Love your videos keep making them as you can see
you are the first
This buggy is really cool, a light and simple frame with a ton of power is really fun, but you have to adjust the brakes, the rear tires can't lock up before the front.
You can adjust the clutches too. The ramp on the driven comes in different angles and the spring preload is adjustable to.
The rear shocks could be softened a smidge by moving the top shock forward Abit. The video shows kts Abit stif and bouncy in the rear end! Great build, can't wait to watch more!!!!
The shocks are shit. There's basically zero rebound....they are just pogo sticks.
These guys need to start putting decent quality shock absorbers on their projects before someone gets seriously hurt.
Ike, I think you could hook a spring through the hole in the throttle rod that the cotter pin was in. Hook it through the end of the rod and attach the other end to a bracket behind the rod so the spring pulls the rod back. Just need to bend a piece of steel , drill a small hole in it and weld it to the frame. Whoop!
Really enjoy the channel. Appreciate y'all.
I would love to see it on an EXTENDED oval track!! My dads wife had my 400 Panther hauled away (along with everything else I had in storage) the sled was trash but the 400 Kawasaki ran like new.
You can also Mount the seeds straight to the floor pan like I did mine and give you plenty of legroom and don't feel like you're sitting up in the sky anymore. I've got a pro car race seat in mine but mouse up the same way as the original tracks.
Great video. Looks like a fun ride. You can make gearing changes and that'll change your top speed but I think if you want it really make a significant change to your track time you're going to need to work on suspension. You're having to get out of the throttle because of the bumps so you just need more travel in your suspension and even better tires for traction. That way you can stay in the throttle in the wheels will always be on the ground gaining more speed.
Get a tuned expansion chamber, they are the key to extreme power in 2 strokes, you can get 18%+ in power gains
I would LOVE it if y’all could get ahold of all the old 2 stroke racing quads/3 wheelers and play with them. LT500 Quadzillas, Banshees, Blasters, 250Rs, etc. ALSO would be awesome to see you restore an old Odyssey fl250, fl350, or an fl400 pilot. I know those are all rare, but y’all have the means now!!
First view , first like , and first comment ! Love the projects ! Would love to see it go head to head with the yard dart !
Jon: I did none of the work
Jon: I get first go and can complain about it not being perfect
“thank you gopowersports 😃😃” we gotta bring that back.
You need a piece of steel stock like 1/4" to 3/8" straight edge that you can use to line up the clutches and should stop it from chewing up belts. You place it all the way down to the shaft on the clutch on motor and if I recall my schooling and it must rest up against the inside edge then open up the drive/rear clutch and place the straight edge down in it to the shaft. When it sits even with no angle or what not then I believe it would be lined up properly. Please forgive me if I'm wrong as it has been a very long time since I went to school for small engine repair.
Look at 16:51. You can see the primary grags like it should then the secondary just opens oaa the way up. If you put a heavier spring in the secondary, it will fix you take off problems. Use you old hearing with new secondary spring and it will be a ripper from dead stop to warp speed!. They make a lot with different springs in them for tuning.... Kinda like how you jet carbs....
Had the same problem with my snowmobile buggy and I was runing bigger tires but I changed the weights in the clutch worked grate.
"Let me crank it up and see if you can roll it around."
Hahaha so good
You guys don't have just a channel,...
you have a brotherhood.
I had been a snowmobile enthusiast for about ten years. and worked on CVT systems, and I can tell you that the alignment between the primary clutch and the secondary clutch is crucial. because the belt should stay straight. between both clutches though out the operation of the CVT system. once that is achieved then you have experiment with springs and weights. something else CVT systems need to be vented so they don't overheat. they made kits for snowmobiles to put vents in the chassis and the hood on the sleds.
Sounds like maybe you should listen to this guy. Also sounds like I guessed the mechanism right, never having seen one.
Nah. You're over thinking things. If so smart you would have noticed that the new belt is also longer than should be.
@@shawnsatterlee6035 Those problems aren't mutually exclusive. They need to flip the driven pulley so that it moves the belt the same way as the drive pulley. I'm guessing they know that though so there's probably a reason that they didn't. Not enough space most likely.
@@Lucas12v if u flip the driven pulley how exactly do u expect to operate as should? Maybe think about it for a second. That or u have no idea how the driven pulley actually works.
@@shawnsatterlee6035 Honestly, i didn't look very closely at the setup they are using but i know cvt's aren't supposed to have the two pulleys move the belt in opposition directions as the rpms come up. The logical assumption is that one of them is on backwards and it can't be the one on the engine. Not all can be on backwards but some can.
Man I love you guys I been watching since the first video ps y’all put out. Watching how much you guys have grown as people and as a channel seeing people come and go along the way and how you went and visited charles one time at the shop he worked at and then he made a few appearances and now… you three are a absolute dream team together. You guys can build anything and make it absolutely rip. Lol. I miss the Ducarti but I understand it’s a pure death trap lol. I used to have a Honda Odyssey. Yellow with the half rolecage and one headlight. Pull start 80cc snowmobile motor. I think you guys should find a old odyssey and try to revamp it. Those things are so much fun with the balloon tires and the solid rear axle and front suspension she loves to bounce. Not to mention the dope ass steering wheel that aircraft style with the finger throttle and brake levers. I think y’all should do a odyssey 100 percent. Keep up the dope work gentlemen. From johns parents garage to your own dope ass property into a small cramped old shack of a workspace and now your own giant garage and workshop. Love how you guys have grown as a whole! Thanks for keeping me entertained and always looking forward for the next video!
Try changing the muffler on the murry to for more power
Skill and personality aside, the only reason Charles got the job was so John could get his hands on Charles's left handed tools. jk.
@@marklewis5984 hahaha
@@marklewis5984 It is pretty hard to find a left-handed metric crescent wrench.
Looks like some of your bump steer is coming from your sprung spindles. With your front axle tipped back for caster it puts the centerline on your hub off. So when that spindle is going up and down on your kingpin, it’s pulling and pushing the tire in and out in the front. Watched it on the slo mo.
you can flip the driven side of that pulley mechanism around so they both squeeze towards the same side. that might help with belt slip and heat.
Super Rad build. I want to do one. As others have said, the second clutch needs to be the other way around. The belt will stay in alignment even as the ratio changes. The belt will last alot longer and you'll be wasting less power. 💯
Thank you Go Power Sport!!! :D
Love the stuff boys keep it up
Wow that looks like a lotta fun
That's a wicked machine,
That belt looks a little loose...probably starting in 1st and a half gear... also a tighter spring on the secondary clutch...That will get rid of the rpm drop after launching and let the engine hit peak rpm immediately...Im a snowmobile mechanic in Michigan...awesome build fellas
a project that went super fast and Didn't try to kill Ike, great build, and i cant wait to see the way this sucker turns out when tuned and setup
That looks like a right laugh 😃.
Well earned sub from England 🇬🇧
That's going to be a beast in the end great video once again peace
more 2 stroke please its awesome
Oh and that build was amazing
You boys may want to think about getting a fuel cell and some overalls. Looking at the position of that tank outside the rollcage, in proximity to that hot exhaust gives me the chills. Your engineering work is really improving compared to some of the sketchy stuff I saw when I first started watching. Great to see.
you need the chain case from the snowmobile guys. that’s how they adjust gearing for those belts to wind up and not slip.
They need at least 10:1. The chain case will give them a 1.3:1 gear multiplication, though I have heard you can add more teeth to help, but I'm not 100% sure because they use a silent chain (timing chain style) and not a roller chain. But it would do them well to try to find that chain case in to help.
Great work guys. I love your content! I might suggest you look at reinforcing the roll cage with the power you are starting yo get. I would hate to see one of you get hurt again if you roll that cart.
A great demonstration in how something so unimportant in the scheme of things and with all the troubles on this planet. CAN BECOME SO IMPORTANT ! Great job guys. I don't think it should be allowed to be Yard Dart though. Make something better for that.
Has anyone mentioned the weld just above the left rear shock mount to the frame? It's just a tack. The front suspension design looks great! I love watching you guys!
I hope Chris at RBW gets another shot with some of his projects. He's got some good ones too. Thanks for the vids! 😎
Awesome progress guys, loving the evolution of this kart! Jack shaft and shorter belt sounds like the way forward for the gearing.
At 16:52 you can see the belt is still too long which will explain the bogging and will make you think its gearing after use changed it . I would try that shorter belt
This one's gonna be a winner, I can feel it, but those pulleys just don't seem right, guys. Call me crazy, but I always thought that the fixed side of both pulleys should be on the same side so the alignment isn't constantly changing. Meaning you may need to flip the secondary and realign them. Time to start googling and checking the snowmobile side of YT again.
I know almost nothing about these CVTs and I can tell that you are precisely correct if that is what they have happening now. This CVT obviously isn't working right now. Having the pulleys misaligned, dynamically or otherwise, is maybe about instant death for the belt, too. I think these run steel or kevlar (or something) belts internally, to stay very longitudinally dimensionally stiff, ie not elongate much under load, and to keep the efficiency up.
Just a suggestion regarding safety but I think you should add some crossbars to the top of the roll cage! Maybe even one on each side as well! If that thing's in a rollover those bars that you currently have will bend and buckle! I just want to see y'all safe! It'll be fine only goes so far until your arm is broken or possibly worse next time!
2nd the Jack shaft! I was just thinking that and Ike said it.
I think it might be time to line your fast parts of the track with some hay bails or tyres. Watching that thing bounce around at 50 mph was making me cringe. That speed into a tree isn’t going to end well. And I want to keep seeing more of this awesome stuff from you guys.
Same thought, I would suggest getting that front end and steering WORKING too, it looks terrible. Fifty into a tree would be a VERY very bad thing. It would definitely leave a mark, so to speak. In the worst smack orientation, it might even be fatal, roll cage or not.
On that same note, the bridge needs to be a bit wider now, too.
That little steering dart at the end of John's first top speed run (18:59) - extreme puckering
Man the Murray looks hella fast ike was handled it like a champ
It's gonna go head to head with the mini cross kart..... Only thing that'll be able to keep up with it.... 😆
The driven pulley spring should have multiple holes it can be set in to get the proper rotating tension on the movable sheave, as you increase the tension the WOT rpm will increase which should go to max hp rpm any time you are at WOT most snowmobile engines run in the 7400 to 8200 rpm at wide open throttle (WOT) That will also increase the grip tension on the belt and reduce slippage. The rotating tension can be measured with a pull scale attached (clamped) to the outer edge of the movable sheave.
Changing weights in the clutch can help alot too
Can't wait to see this thing at Busco at some point