Mini BoostPack 12V Capacitor Car Battery Update
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- I have been using the Mini BoostPack for 2 months now. This update covers what I have learned while using the Mini BoostPack over the last two months.
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Thanks for the videos. They inspired me to use a US$ 20, 120F 6 cell pack to my motorcycle. (400cc / 2 cylinder / 4-stroke). It is placed on a braket on top of the starter motor together with the starter solenoid. This means the only low gauge wire is from the capacitor pack through the solenoid to the starter. The main battery is a NiMH pack under the fuel tank, with a higher gauge wire to the solenoid. Very effective system so far.
Yes, I know. What you are calling "luck" was actually a well researched decision on my part precisely because the LIFePo4 batteries do not have the "fireball" issue. That is the reason I chose them for the SOLN1 project. A working temp of 60C is another plus.
Comments needs a curcit block and charge on 2 parts when is it on the market I'am with the car guy (nice job)
Along with the capacitor balancing diodes in parallel with each cell, I would add a 1 or 2 Ohm power resistor in series with the LiFePo4 battery to limit the charging current as well as a battery disconnect switch (for when you know the car will be sitting unused for a long time). It also needs an insulated enclosure to protect it from the heat of the engine, and possibly ducted air/fan cooling to keep it under 60 degrees celcius.
Interesting series on using Super Caps. As my background was in military two-way radio one of the safety warnings impressed upon ALL technicians was to remove all jewelry i.e. rings, watches, etc. The idea here was that in the event of getting shorted thru the jewelry, one could get a finger burned off or worse. I would encourage you to address personal safety issues when posting future videos also when working on electrical circuits of all type. One of my electronic instructors in college was a retired Navy Chief Petty Officer he echoed the same motto used in the Navy "One hand for your self, one hand for the ship."
Thanks safety police.
Eh, no problem its your fingers that could get burned off. Just thought you should know. After all said and done its up to you to be responsible for your own safety.
Mike Schmidt Watch bands if metal are another thing to remove
Chris Cook Right you are Chris. Another one that I missed was to wear trousers with either nylon zipper or button down fly. In the Air Force I had to wear button down because we were using a workbench that was metal, the radios had > 1000 vac in certain circuits, which in some instances could find ground thru a metal zipper then thru your feet resulting in having the family jewels burned off! Ouch to say the least.
Mike Schmidt i know people take the piss out of you on here. However, thank you. I value your info, even if other buttheads don't!
Very ingenious stuff, here. Nicely backed up with actual tests. A few comments:
1) Lithium based batteries have a nasty habit of bursting into uncontrollable flames -- almost explosively so -- if abused (google "lipo fires" for numerous examples). If this happens under the hood of your car, you can pretty much say good-bye to it. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are less prone to bursting into flames than their LiPo brothers, but not immune to it.
2) The aforementioned abuse can consist of physical damage (even by knocking around under the hood while driving down a bumpy road), discharging them below 20% of their capacity, charging them too fast (too high a charging current and voltage), or drawing current over their rated value.
3) The closely-arranged exposed terminals make me nervous... inadvertently setting it down on a metal surface or bracket in the engine compartment will release all that stored energy in an instant -- with one heck of a discharge. Then, with zero charge in them, the capacitor bank will present almost a dead short to the battery as charge builds back up -- with current almost certainly over the max rated value for that battery pack.
Thus, I'd be VERY careful about using lithium batteries in this fashion. While the idea of using them to keep the capacitor bank "topped off" is solid, some protections need to be built in, such as:
-- Protection/padding to prevent any physical damage to the battery pack
-- Circuitry to prevent over-discharging as well as to limit charge/discharge current
-- Physical protection of the terminals to prevent accidental shorts
-- Enclose the boost pack in a metal (or other fire-proof) container to keep a potential battery fire from spreading (in addition to providing physical protection). Hobbyists using these batteries usually charge and store them in a fire-proof container of some sort.
-- Consider a different battery type for the capacitor voltage maintenance battery.
Sure, these add more complexity, but are vital to avoid the possibility of torching your car.
I look forward to viewing more of your videos.... keep up the good work!
'Lithium batteries' have 20+ Lithium ion battery chemistries not including those Polymer based.
LiFePO4 batteries will be safe in a car battery scenario as long as the battery can supply the start up current with ease in all temperature ranges, (hence CCA measurement exists).
LTO (Lithium Titanate) is the safest lithium battery chemistry. Since you can cut it and drill holes in it while it still functions.
Li-Po can be made properly, or cheaply, cheap Li-Po (stuff you buy on HobbyKing) not recommended for high temperature applications (such as, near car engines).
Yes, you are right. Another important thing I forgot until reading your comment is that I had already used that same LiFePO4 pack in SOLN1 testing. I was pretty hard on it prior to using it with the Mini BoostPack. Despite all that I know that it was jump starting my flooded mower that killed the LiFePO4 pack in the end.
You should use resistor in this circuit to protect battery, also your capacitors will charge slower. In this wideo they are charging too fast and overload the battery. Thank you for the cool video!
I really like this setup. If you kept one of those small solar panels hooked up you would not have to worry about discharge, You would have to regulate the output of the solar panel I guess so not to over charge the caps. looking forward to more updates..
Capacitor balancing circuit:- 4 x silicon rectifier diodes across each capacitor will limit the voltage to 2.4 volts max.
Back as far as 1972 I inspected an airport radar system powered by capacitors. So it works reliably eh. Rapid discharge has always been the limitation. Power can be infinite however. I would think your "hybrid solution" of adding a lightweight lithium battery as a "sink" would overcome this and deserves some research. Nice video
This is great for lawn tractors. My lawn tractor battery goes bad almost every year due to my negligence in charging it during winter.
A PCM can handle cell balancing. I am just using these current LiFePo4 packs because they were left over from a previous solar project. I still have two more packs left over from testing that still have enough juice for projects like this. In the meantime I am locating a good quality LiFePo4 pack with a built in PCB/PCM featuring charge current limiting and cell balancing. In the end if I have any troubles I will just go back to the larger non-hybrid BoostPack.
Btw: when you jump start anything, make sure the car is running. the alternator can supply the current much better than the battery. Also put a resistor between the battery and the capacitors, to limit the current from the battery.
jump starting your car with it running is a good way to kill your voltage regulator
For a guy who's named "Just Speaking the Truth", you sure don't speak it. You should always have your car running when you jump start another, the alternator won't be hurt at all, and the battery will last longer. -Actual Red Seal tech.
You're the work of a genius. You need to write the manual book on this on what type of lithium battery and capacitors are being used and how to put this together for someone to use their own car.
It obviously goes way past a drop-in replacement, but if you were to connect and disconnect the supplementary battery via the ignition switch (and possibly a relay), you should be able to let the car sit indefinitely, click the ignition to "on", wait 10 seconds and start the engine. Sure, your clock will be wrong after more than a few days of sitting, but it should never, ever leave you stranded. Not even sure it's worthwhile, just a thought.
Phenomynon
Phenomynon Oooo.. I like the way you're thinking.. I was thinking the same thing as well but I thought it was a little too fiddly. But really the perfect solution WILL be 'fiddly' and obviously a hybrid solution... but this is great stuff.
I hate lead acid batteries with a passion. it is the only thing in modern cars that has never been upgraded.. every conceivable item in a car has been re-engineered except the battery.. it's a heavy piece of antiquity from the 1880's we are still dragging around. It's as if we are still attached to our ancestors with LA battery technology!!
I had the same thought, but if the capacitors are completely dead then there would be no power to activate the relay. You would have to have a manual switch too, probably just a momentary (spring loaded) switch, because you could just hold it for a couple seconds and then there should be enough voltage to activate the relay.
At 12v / 6 caps is an average 2v for each cap. When on the alternator charges to 14v, each cap would see an average 2.33v. If unbalances cause a 20% difference, a single cap could see 2.8 volts. If one were to fail (short) each cap would average 2.8 with imbalances causing higher voltage on some caps, causing them to fail with the effect of cascading failure of every capacitor and a dead short to your alternator. causing that to fail too.
We are now at 10/2015 and how is it doing?
With a PET plastic bottle you can give a nice cover to the pack, using the bottle like a heat shrinkable.
I love this proyect it's so awesome.
ppl tend to confuse capacity with reliability, (and cost/ lifecycle or design for intended use).
the base ideas are sound, but played too fast an loose with the mechanicals.
"battery(s)" are real good at energy density, per weight and volume.
"caps" are real good at high flow rates to and from, and dont have the 'wear' factor.
-until you exceed the low or high spec for respective unit, but that is universal (operator error).
LiFePo4 is fairly stable yet still decent energy density. lithium polymer is diff chem and const. the similar names confuse folks.
lead-acid is common and traditional ("cheap"). it also has a rather poor habit of corroding out the front quarter of a vehicle.
I have recently installed a Maxwell ESM, Super Capacitor, in an 18 Wheeler! It has worked great for me since Nov, 2013 and this was a bitter winter. I even had my engine gell up 3 times in N. Dakota this winter! Keep up the testing!
Why not drop lithium poly battery and put in a 12 solar charger that could just top off the capacitors ?
It was not me removing your comment. That must of been a glitch or something. I did notice that your comments were not showing up and marked as spam. Maybe someone is marking your comments as spam. Anyway I like your idea of a parallel to series switch. I will be experimenting with balancing options myself and will share my findings.
Don't use socks. They can conduct when wet.
anything will conduct when wet dipshit
@@bobsharlt41 But sealed containers are good at keeping the wet out, dipshit.
A nice big ziplock bag ,keep water out ,dipshit.
Very interesting. Please continue with your tests. Waiting for updates.
how to build this please. in perfect details tutorial
I actually made one of these as a keep alive booster that is plugged into the ALDL, so parameters are not reset during battery service. Works great!
I'm curious to see how this would operate in freezing temperatures.
You should watch the BoostPack in freezing temperatures update video: th-cam.com/video/GUXM1XuLUIs/w-d-xo.html
thanks!
+lasersaber wow youve got a video for every comment you happen to get? ok then, here's my comment: I'm curious to see how this would operate while Julie Benz does a naked backwards crab walk.
+Art Storey Actually the performance of the caps would be unaffected by the temperature, unlike lead acid batteries the performance of which is seriously impacted by cold temps. I guess what you are alluding to is the effect of cold temps on turning a sluggish engine over with thick oil sticking up the works. Valid question.
+Art Storey Yea it would take more amps to turn over a cold engine in winter.
Use a buck controller to have your battery feed the caps and the caps feed the car.
You could have a low voltage cut off for your battery and a switch to bypass it as a back up start.
Great video, love the sock battery
Are there any instructions on making one of these 12v booster packs?
Thank you for the update and information. I would have been worried the whole flight home whether my car would start or not!!
Really should make a better set up. Having the positive and negative so close together is just a recipe for an unscheduled welding session. Same goes for not having some sort of protective rap or case for the whole pack. Neat concept all the way around though.
If you want that battery to live put a resistor between the caps and them. You are overcharging the battery. The car alternator is pumping arround 60 amps and the maximum battery charging current is about 10-15apms. If you put 0.5ohm resistor between the pack and the capacitors, they will absorb the most of the current.
can you upload a balance circuit diagram for these capacitor bank
you should make or acquire just a battery control module to charge it properly while the car is running then then let it charge the caps and perhaps isolate the battery when the ignition primes to prevent heavy draw from the starter from hitting the battery and caps to just hit the caps.
59 lead mine owners didn't like this video.
+Christopher Jones To everyone out there with shares in lead mines, don`t panic just yet. This guy is probably working on a way to power a car on H2O. We had an idiot who was being promoted by our State Premier, Qld Australia who was doing just that. He ignored requests to provide evidence that his R & D had merit, and still expected Govt funding
Well, mattie-boy, what Lasersaber's doing with this:
1. isn't similar to trying to make a vehicle that runs on water, and
2. already exists in stores, as made by someone else.
Christopher Jones
lithium phosphate he hybrided will expolde under sun heat engine heat he is making bombs only capacitor means ok if it starts or not it is ok but not fully but this... this is a bomb
I've watched a few of these videos so if I have missed something, please forgive me but I'm not seeing any kind of 12 to 14 volt regulator in these systems.
Shouldn't there be a regulator to convert all the stored energy down to 14 volts? Otherwise looks like discharging the capacitors at once would send a massive amount of voltage all at once.
I maybe thinking along the lines of an ignition coil that when the negative post is grounded it sends 60,000 volts or so to the distributor.
Or is the maximum amount of voltage these capacitors stores is 2 to 4 volts?
We had a huge problem with the battery placement in an experimental aircraft project; the final result was something of a least unacceptable compromise. This system would be godsend in that use.
Think this setup would work with a motorcycle?
yes absolutly, even better
You need to pay better attention...
Dad andDave
It was a simple question that was already answered and I happened to miss it. But thank you for contributing useful information like informing me that I needed to pay more attention. You're the reason people are afraid to ask questions when they either don't understand or miss information. So yeah, congratulations on your helpful and oh so witty comment.
This is actually a great idea, my moped only gets used a few weeks of the year, could kick start it, get the capacitor to charge, and then use it to start for the rest of the season
Well, I started to study electronics in 1970 and passed the first class FCC test on first attempt in April 1972. May I suggest that: 1.you learn about fusing 2. the easy to understand RC time constant for capacitor - resistors. Without protecting the battery, you will ruin many, as at 200amps you have about 1.3 seconds cranking time - at 400 amps you have about half that amount, if you don't burn something up first. Good luck.
You have destroyed that LiPo. You can't leave a lipo fully charged, they puff and lose their charge. Lipos are a terrible choice for this situation, you would better off with a 10s nimh battery as a companion to those caps.
You could even put in a much Smaller Pb battery coupled with the caps.
If pointing out why a certain chemistry of battery is inappropriate for a certain use is 'so smart' then you must have a really low standard of intelligence. This is constructive criticism based on information that this channel may not have. If you have nothing to add May I suggest fucking off?
I know a guy with an electric wheelchair thats lithium batteries went dead while he was in the hospital, They won't charge back up now, Are they ruined?
Pretty much, It's the catch with lithium batteries each cell needs to go no lower than 3 volts otherwise they are usually permanently ruined. Best bet is to get them recycled and replaced.
Spencer Howard
If a lead acid battery won't start your car in the winter (or whenever) capacitors will not. Capacitors can match the battery on the initial crank but do not have the staying power. The problem trying to start the mower is an example. The Boostpack capacitors are 350F, six in series which means an effective capacity of about 58 F which gives an equivalent of .5 AH against a car battery's 120 AH. That means that at 150 amps crank current your capacitors have about 12 seconds. The reason the hybrid system battery failed with the mower is that after about 12 seconds (theoretically) he started using the Li battery to start the mower which, to the battery, is effectively a short circuit.
Lipo? o.o. Don't you mean fire hazard?
I am currently building an Extreme audio power bank and I’m using 3 banks of 6 3000f 2.7V Maxwell Super caps with over charging circuit’s and leaving a Optima Yellow top under the hood. So 1500 Farad at 14.4v Plus yellow top and a 270 AMP XP HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR From DC Power Alternator for heavy load support and charging. Not only will it run heavy duty equipment this setup will keep you bat topped off forever and instant start your car without hesitation. I also highly recommend getting the Overcharge circuits for the capacitor’s just for that lil extra protection.
I don't understand how you put up a channel and you never answer questions
Luciano Junqueira - I'm just glad he shared the info he did... I'm not willing to ask him for hours of his life responding to every thought and question that pops into my head, or the rest of the TH-cam "peanut gallery"
If you had a large Wattage 1 Ohm resistor in the connection to the battery then the Capacitors would be kept charged but the current draw on the battery would be limited to around 12 Amps. Also the recharge of the battery would also be limited also. Great work by the way. I don't know if you are still experimenting as it's been some years since you posted this.
Unbalanced lithium battery.. yaks..
+Andreas Rasmussen wut?
+Madotsuki Not Against Suicide
He got a lithium battery pack in parallel with the booster pack.
A lithium battery pack, has a tendency, to catch fire, if one or more of the cells get overcharge, that's why you got on balancing circuit
Andreas Rasmussen
oh k thx
He's using Lifepo4 (Iron) and they don't pose the same Hazard. One thing to note, they can't be recharged correctly without a Balancing Circuit. Once a Cell tops off, it will no longer allow pass through to the others.
This is awesome and i cant wait to see the final product. I hope when you finalize this hybrid pack that you will do a how to video on how to build it cause i would be really interested in building/using one on a lightweight Miata to help with MPG's and handling.
Anywhere between the 8 and 12 second mark would have made a great thumnail in my opinion, looks like a smiling robot sock-puppet, also, great video and i look forward to seeing others you've posted
If you intend on keeping the hybrid design you could crate a balancing circuit with a 1-10 meg ohm resistor in parallel with each supercap. I will not balance it quickly but it will help maintain the balance over time.
I think you need a constant current voltage regulator between the battery and capacitors so that the batterys don't supply cranking amps during ignition.
It limits current by dropping voltage, and raises the voltage as the current drops to keep it constant.
Here's a thought.... Use the battery to keep the capacitors charged and use the caps to start your car. Couple the two with a resistor to prevent a high current drain on the battery as you would have when starting or boosting another vehicle. The caps might be discharged, but would be recharged quickly by the battery and would be ready to go again.
Would recommend a plastic covering (shrink wrap or a couple layers of plastic wrap) over the wool sock. If it gets wet it may short and destroy your caps and battery pack.
LiPo batteries require balanced charging systems, meaning each individual cell within the pack is charged individually. I also believe that there is a 5 amp maximum charge rate on most cells. A LiPo balancer like "Great Planes ElectriFly Equinox LiPo Cell Balancer" could solve your problem in the future.
This hybrid battery /capacitor combination need some simple mode to make it work properly
Obviously it needs a small sub ohm resistor in series with the battery as commented and explained by others
It is also absolutely essential that a capacitor balance circuit is included
This can be very simple
The way the circuit works at present is that the high leakage current of the capacitors which would normally discharge the capacitors by themselves after a few days is provided by the battery
I have another suggestion for you. Look for boat repair shops/shows/dealers. Pick there brains about an enclosure for your final battery project case. Really awesome job by the way!!
I'm not sure if you are aware, but in the R/C community, we use Smart Chargers for these packs. The chargers have built in micro controllers, programmed to detect peak capacity of each cell. These chargers also runs an off/on cycle, to test if the pack falls within safety specs before stopping the charge. This is essential because of the inherent fire hazard, these types of batteries have. How are you monitoring /stopping the charge to the Lithium pack, once fully charged?
lol Looking in your background I saw an old friend. I owned a Sebring Citi car years ago! The plastic fell apart and I wound up trading it for a new roof for my back porch. Mine was blue though.
But the capacitor for a battery is a cool idea. Like flash memory for laptops now that would lighten the weight very substantially.
I have a cap bank designed to preserve the battery and supposedly make the car run better. A mechanic friend and I will be checking OBD statistics with the bank on/off tomorrow to see if laptop software can detect any differences. Today I want to come up with a way to compare things like battery draw vs the current drawn from the caps, etc. Or how they interact. I think your hybrid is definitely the way to go. Also, I didn't know you could damage Li-ion batteries jump starting. That's good to know.
Just a thought... This looks great! You could use a marine dual battery switch but must have leads on one side. Then, start the vehicle, switch to the open side, jump lawn mower or whatever from the leads and the alternator will jump start the dead unit; not your battery...
I think it would be cool if in your final version you could have an on board balance check with a cheap home made voltmeter or do something that you can wire into your dash through the firewall with a small lcd screen to check. But really it doesn't take that long to push a button to check the balance during your regular maintenance. Even use a switch to flip between the capacitors. Just an idea for your permanent version
there are high C rated lipos that you can charge pretty quickly (ones that use the balance connectors to control each cell individually). nowhere near as fast as you can discharge them of course, but still, you can charge them quite a bit faster than lead acid batteries if you get ones rated for it. (which are heavier, larger, and cost more, it's always a trade off)
i love experimenting also ,i am over60,thru out my life i get my highs out of experienting....your project is really excellent...i will try out same i in solar applications...
Here's an idea for making high current quick-and-dirty connects: Go to the hardware store, buy yourself some 1/2 inch standard copper pipe ($6-8 for 8 feet of it) cut the RIGID length you need, hammer either the whole length or just the ends flat (very easy to do) then use a drill to put your terminal/connection holes. Great for battery/capacitor series/parallel joining. Should handle about ~200 amps over about it's full length, and 600-800 amps for short duration engine starting. I'm not an electrician or am I ASE certified. Use this information at your own risk. (I use it for my spot welder) Just a tip.
guys, alternators don't charge when the battery has optimal voltage. generators (before the alternator) charges constantly
If you put current-limiting resistor between lithium battery and the rest of the system, it shouldn't ever fear any jump starting. I'm thinking 4 ohms or so. It would also protect the battery in short overcurrent situations when your caps are close to zero volts (just after starting engine or when you plug empty pack to the battery).
Very nice, but a few notes.
Lithium batteries are very flammable and heat sensitive and it may blow up and cause serious injure, or a very intensive lames in your Engine compartment.
Maybe your device may be better to be kept in the baggage area.
Lithium batteries have a different specs of charging voltage an Amp. than default car battery, so you must use electronic card with over charge protection, discharge protection, fuse, etc.
Short cutting a capacitor may be much more dramatic than short cutting a battery and they can easily blowup or burning your car main computing system.
With all the electronics, I believe that the over-hole cost of this device will be higher than a regular 12V car battery.
If I were you, I would go to Kickstart and start raising money, as the idea my have a good potential.
Rig up a balance charger to charge the pack and a relay to disconnect the Li-Po pack when the engine is running. Without a balance charger the alternator will overcharge the individual cells and cause them to fail prematurely or worse blow up on you. Also the heat in the engine bay may be a issue as well , those Li-Po packs don't like temps over 70 degrees C. especially while charging. Balance charger and relay to disconnect them while the engine is running will allow them to perform flawlessly and give you plenty of charge /discharge cycles. just take note most Li-Po cells are going to drop to about 60% rated capacity at 300-350 charge discharge cycles.
I just know from personal experience with RC Li-Po packs that without using a balance charger you will kill your li-po pack in a hurry, thats why they have the balance charger plug on them from the factory.
hope this can help what your doing because i think you have a great idea there
This is awesome, lightweight batteries cost hundreds and still weigh at least 10lb. I'm definitely going to build one of these to test on my cars.
A couple of things. First you have to watch the charge on the Li-Ion battery, it must be regulated. Secondly, those caps HAVE to be balanced, you could run into an overcharge at some future and ruin the caps quite fast.
You could get some NiCd D or F cell batteries and make a pack so that you don't have to worry about them over-discharging and they'd be more tolerant to higher voltage charging. You could put a resistor between the pack and the alternator/capacitors to limit the charge and discharge current so that the batteries are less likely to be damaged. It seems to me to be the most durable battery chemistry. I know manufacturers claim their NiCd motor start batteries can last 20 years in some cases.
I have two points:
- did you check charging current to the capacitors from car's alternator? Internal resistance of capacitors is probably much lower than a battery has, so this might cause damage to charging system in the car.
- when connectiong Li-Fe to cappacitors you may go overcurrent when capacitors are not charged.
Hi, real impressed with your project and I'm intending to fit a similar system to both my vehicles among other things. Just a small note on jump starting, even with a lead acid battery you should attach your jumper cables to the positive lead and the body to isolate the battery. This way you only use the alternator. Great videos and thankyou for the ideas/tips.
Hi.. can boost packs paralled to lead acid battery?
Yes you can. but first place a power resistor in series or your unit can be damaged.
Excellent work LaserSaber! Patent this and make a company and sell this to car manufacturers and present it at SEMA. If they deny you, then at least target the automotive racing industry. This could be your ticket to wealth.
Place a 1 ohm resistor on the LiPo, to prevent it from over-current damage during engine-crank, or jump-starts.
indeed, I just learned about this on some BBC show about the future. very interesting substance, graphene.
This could really be something for sportscars. Plenty of aftermarket parts aim towards saving weight, like carbon panels. Some people even get rid of the radio and interior, just to save weight. I hope you can throw it on the market and make a profit.
you need a current limiting resistor in series with the LiPO. If you're just using it to keep the supercap charged you don't need a lot of current
The LiFe pack really needs a BMC to balance it. Those sort of charge discharge conditions really really require balancing. Fantastic project though, really great stuff.
Very neat and interesting video. Makes me want to make a pack and try it out on a motorcycle. Starting demands should be much less so perhaps the size could be a lot smaller.
that's right. i'll have to figure out a way to extend the battery leads into the cabin.
a quickly detachable starter cell would make a great anti-theft security option.
Oh, absolutely. It would be one of the best theft deterrent systems because it's so simple to pull off, and very ingenious.
I'm not doubting, just in complete disbelief. I seriously don't believe it - I love this!
I think this is a great Idea, What if you used a plastic shell from a regular care battery to house this system. Then used some sort of spray foam insulation or something similar that could keep the battery warmer in cold conditions
Very good experiment. I'm surprised it works so well. I imagine it will far outlive a normal battery.
This is absolutely fascinating. I was looking at solutions for storing energy to build an electronic bike.
Lithium iron phosphate (LiFe) is not the same as a lithium polymer (LiPo) battery, Lithium Polymer holds its electrolytes in polyethylene oxide or some other composite. Although you are correct, they are quite dangerous, but many balance chargers can take care of these 4 Cell batteries in like 3-4 hours. People often use these for RC cars and such. Just as long as you dont abuse it with shorting or let the cells get too low they are safe.
If I were to wager a guess the reason jump starting failed was the dead battery caused the over discharge. Had the dead battery been disconnected while starting and then reconnected to charge off the alternator the LiFePO4 may have been safe.
Well spotted! It is nice to see that manufacturers are paying attention to the fact that we are replacing our ignorance with knowledge.
Awesome :D
so charge current for a LiFePo isonly like 2C in your case about 14A, your alternator puts about about 100A and the max discharge current is something like 20C so 140A and during a start it may draw much more than that during start, so it might be a good idea to put in a current limiting resistor between the battery back and the rest of the system something big like a 50W resistor this would allow you to run most accessories from the battery and keep the caps charged when the engine is off and limit damage from over current to the battery when charging and starting.
this might fir the bill: www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Load-Resistor-Fix-LED-Bulb-Fast-Flash-Turn-Signal-Blink-Blinker-50W-6ohm-/300913214109?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460fd3429d&vxp=mtr
Another thing the charging voltage from the cars generator would be in excess of 14.2 volts as a fully charged battery is 13.8 volts
Great idea and application. I judge battery condition after charging fully then leaving for a few days and monitoring the bat voltage when pressing the starter on my bike CBR1100XX. Below 9.5V is my cut off, will replace it. This looks fantastic. Ever heard of MOSFET rectifier/regulators ?
By the way You should use balancers if you which to use this setup for a long time. In my opinion using Li-Fe battery pack is far more dengorus (dreamliner) than using standard small 12V lead battery. For examle. If You use 12V 12Ah lead battery which have a weight of 8.8lbs You can have Your headlights on (110W) for 1,5h, or with no consumtion of electricity for at least 50 days and start your car with no problem.
Great research, enjoyed the vid :)
Am sure that rather than knock you down on a job well done, some of the folks could turn to programming a PIC as a solution. You could have the cut off voltage settable, current limiting etc. Such a module could then go on (probably) cheaper battery packs that don't have protection circuits from factory and offer the same protections.
+1 on the 3D printed housing...you could even make it look like a mini regular car battery !
This is great for motorcycles. You want to test it. 12V, 14A/20A.
Thanks. Rick.
I have been doing this along side your videos here using a LI-FE battery as an experiment and so far jumpstarted another car and also jump started my Lawn Mower, no problems at all. You might want to try a LI-FE battery instead of an LI-PO. Pretty cool and I suggest you give it a go. see what happens I have been going a week now on it. Daily Driver 1977 Ford Ranchero GT 5.8 LTR V8
love your channel!
You need to keep your vehicle running when you do a jump start so the alternator provides the power, because there's so little power in the lithium battery, you can't use it to charge up a larger battery without the help of the alternator.
You need a charging circuit for the capacitor to remove the battery stress during startup. The simplest one is a 12v bulb, 100w which would charge the capacitor at around 1 amp. But a charging current of say 50amp would be very convenient.
Also beware of lipos. They pose a high risk of fire especially with no capacitor charging circuit. You need an aluminum box to contain a potential fire. Also lower discharge rates batteries are generally safer but they need a lower power capacitor charging circuit.
Yeah LiPo is probably no good idea.
I was typing a reply when at the end of the video, you touched on what I was going to suggest. I know very little about capacitors, even though I build mini amps with them. In my mind this would be ideal.... if you could have something that would temporarily separate the capacitors and the battery until the voltage of the capacitors dipped below whatever it would take to start the car and then it would switch to build up the capacitors and then disconnect again. That way, if a radio was left on or there was a short, you would still have power to start you car from the capacitors even though the battery was dead. You are far more advanced in this subject than I am, so if I'm thinking wrong, I apologize in advance.
these vibe digital capacititors will be perfect for you
this is pretty interesting i was looking on car audio for how to charge and discharge a capacitor but for car audio ... i cam across this video and caught my attention this is really interesting im going to look into this allot more now