i am just a beginner DIY, u guys recommend me using wool pads??? because i noticed that the sponge pads break quicker and i never use wool pads before.
All I've ever used is the wool pad , you've shed a new light on this beast for me , air buffer is all I've ever used also . Thanks a bunch , planing on checking into buying a foam pad for my da air buffer . MB
Man I'm years in and learning by myself. Many TH-cam videos and all. I've learned so much over the last year. This last 6 months has been life changing. I'm about to invest in a Rupes buffer and finally go with wool pads. I've been using G9 with foam pads. Bout to do both wool and foam. Thanks for this video!
thanks for the video. trying to actually figure things out on my own now and don't have any supervisors telling me what to do. I would have assumed wool made more heat and was scared to even try one of those pads. I haven't used a rotary buffer in years so really not trying to fuck anything up, but having a tough time with deep scratches with it because I was scared to burn paint. Have a random orbit on the way as that's what I have grown used to, but in the end I need to find what works best in the fastest time. Actually had the best results so far going over problem areas by hand with a more course foam with cut compound, then finishing up with a quick polish on the machine with another foam pad.
Nice video very smooth !gets you informed !havent buffed in a few years but learned the hard way burning a few cars back then !retired but nothing like a beautiful finish !thank you !
I have almost 30 yrs polishing. Wool pads are definitely harsher but I never thought of using my infared thermometer to check! Cool... I rarely use wool on base clear, unless it's badly damaged. If I wool cut, I then foam cut after, glaze and wax. I mostly do high end detailing and clean my stuff for sale.
Wool is very aggressive, so if you really want a high gloss and don't use glazes, then you're definitely going to need to cut with foam after the wool. The foam cutting reduces the fine swirls caused by the wool, and then ideally you would want to use a less aggressive polish and foam pad. To finish the final step I would go with a finishing pad and polish on a d/a polisher to remove the holograms and give you a high gloss finish.
It sounds like using a wool pad is like using a yellow Hex-Logic Pad; Chemical Guys say it's so harsh that you should follow with the standard orange Hex-Logic pad and the same compound to remove the marks left by the yellow one before moving onto the white pad with a finishing glaze. Personally I used a yellow pad to level out some excess touch-up paint which an orange pad was having little effect on; in all honesty, I didn't see the difference after following-up again with the orange pad and weirder-still, on other occasions I've seen the orange pad do more than the yellow pad after using it than before.
@@mattarnold198 - Same. I never got much out of either the orange or yellow. The green was the sleeper for me. Follow with the blue with a fine polish and seal or ultra finish with the red. Been using that set up since 2013.
I own a detailing business and for me it depends on what I'm buffing. If it's light swirl marks then I go with foam. If I have to do more of a hard cutting like light scratches,oxidization and fixing defects then I use a heavy cutting wool then finish it up with foam pads.
Wool pad + Rotory works well when removing scratches... Make sure you have enough compound; then i use a coarse foam pad with compound on a orbital quickly; then i polish with a medium foam pad or a softer one... Always have enough lubricant until it glazes over... Sounds time consuming right? It is
Thank you for a definitive explanation of the 2 types . I knew that from exoeriance, but I never felt confident in my choices. Now without doubt . Woo-hoo
The heat is a important catalyst in helping to make the paint slightly softer whilst cutting. That'll speed the process up. The wool will always cut flatting marks away the best and then it's a process of scratch pattern elimination which foams are best for. Cut with wool, buff with foam. Great video 🍺
Well done video, but I see you are using a single ply wool, maybe even a pre-wash wool and not twisted wool like so many have been using for years. I would agree with your choice of wool just to be more on the cautious side and to minimize swirl that twisted wool has long been associated with. I suppose if the user is adequately trained and experienced with the high speed buffer then he could use 100% twisted wool as a first step followed by foam as you suggest. Of course, what you do as your buffing strategy depends a lot on what was done prior to getting there in a fresh paint scenario. In other words, letting a modern hi solid paint sit out for a week or longer before buffing it is asking for problems, the key is timing. Next day if air dry or a few hours later after baking, in either case it's important to start working the paint within the prescribed time periods set by the paint manufacturer. If not, the clear turns rock hard and that is when the user ironically can damage the paint more when the whole intent is to repair it. There is also a penalty to pay if the user starts buffing the paint too early as well, something called "dye back". Thanks for demonstrating the heat differences between wool and foam, something I've known for a long time and yes, foam can damage clear coat too! However, things have changed the past ten years in the industry on some key fronts. Recommended buffer speeds are slower, compounds break down more compared to "rocks in a box" compounds from the day, foam pads are on an upswing in popularity for what they do and more recently the introduction of effective "long throw" random orbit buffers. They have knocked down rotary buffers a notch or two due to the expanded performance of the long throw orbital machines.
The DA buffer has only knocked down the rotor buffer a notch or two for the less experienced user. Rotary is still most preferred by professional paint refinishers.
As a professional detailer I have always used wool to cut out sanding marks and very deep scratches ! I've never experienced any problems with heat build up as you demonstrated in your video. Yes , foam for finishing definitively adds soo much gloss ! Great instructional video Donald .
Good vid mate ,I’m in the uk so wouldn’t be using 3d products but in saying that it was a good informative demonstration thanks .i use this technique on polishing epoxy resin and it works a treat .👌
Wetsanding is the best and safest way to remove oxidation. But to answer the question, wool. You want to cut cut cut to get that oxidation off. That's why gelcoat guys still use those big twisted wool pads. To chop that oxidation off first, then refine it after.
Thanks for the video, been years since I've used anything but wax and elbow grease.... had no idea what foam pads were. (mechanic who occasionally helped buff cars in paint when slow). One question I do have... kid bought a used truck, seller included touch-up paint with it. What would you recommend to use to shine it up, blend the factory/touch-up together? and then wax wise?
Great demonstration, I recently purchased several products off your website. Question though, should I use that wool pad with a DA, or is it recommended for a rotary? I saw you used a flex but they make several types. Thanks!
Just beginning here, but it seems clear to me that any heating effect would be directly proportional to the speed the machine is moving, the pressure applied to the surface, the machine's rpm, as well as the amount of liquid on the pad. Lot of things come into play that affect heat generated, as I understand things.
Sure. I did my with it .. I use 1000 grit sand and a 3000 grit sand Then plastic compound and a wool pad attach to a drill for faster result. It was a kit from meguiars. And it come with a clear coat to apply with foam Cost me $29 on auto zone
@@CarlosChavez-cr3gd Did the same thing, looks great now. Though the wool pad did make a big splatter mess... hahah i never done such a think so i probably used to much.
I am a beginner at polishing, and I am interested in the ability to do paint, plastic, epoxy, glass, etc. How can you tell the grit equivalent of a buffing/polishing compound compared to sandpaper? In an attempt to learn the different cuts and how they affect materials, I did some samples and have sanded some materials through the different stages from 800 up to 4000. I then tried some buffing compounds i over them at different times. I know I’m wasting my time and probably sanding with 3000 and then ruining it with a buffing compound that is 2000. When it gets very fine I can’t tell the difference so I’m wondering if there’s even a way to tell. Also, why bother using a compound when you can just use sandpaper what is the advantage or difference? .
I can not tell which grid your polishing paste is, but i guess that using a rotating machine is a lot faster than using sandpaper, except when you have rotary sandpaper pads on your machine. But i think that it is a lot cheaper to make a bottle of liquid with grid 4000 than 100 or 150 sandpaper pads with that grid
Use wool then foam? I use wool and it remove hair line marks very fast but it makes funny reflection on direct sun.Like you said wool can't give glossy shine!
Silly that you chose a Spider Pad, instead of a traditional foam pad that the majority of people are familiar with Rupes disagrees about heat. Jason Rose indicates that heat is an unnecessary byproduct of polishing.
Concerning speed, I can understand a low speed for a 6" pad... but would higher speed be desirable for smaller pads? I'm thinking about 4000rpm for a tiny 1.25" pad? My little DA doesn't go any lower than 4000rmp. It's a Mirka AROS-150 and it's range is 4000 - 8000rpm.
The most erroneous and misleading detailing video I have ever seen. The ONLY correct part was..foam compounding with rotary tends to be cooler vs any form of foam machinework.
After doing body work for almost 30 years I went to polishing and prepping after a back injury. The polishing didn't help but I developed a terrible cough that finally went away after about a year and a half after no longer doing that work. I believe the cough came from inhaling dust created by the disintegration of foam pads as it creates a very fine dust that is terrible on lungs in my opinion. I used a mask but didn't when polishing as I didn't feel a need to.
@@AllAmericanGuy01 I did go to a doctor who only prescribed antibiotics. Cough persisted but went away after I left the work. Always used a dust mask or respirator doing body work or welding but when polishing I thought it was nothing to worry about. I think the foam dust is a definite health risk . Just saying
I am pro and nothing like wool pads save time and best result
Same here. I’ve been detailing for 6 years and I prefer use wool.
i am just a beginner DIY, u guys recommend me using wool pads???
because i noticed that the sponge pads break quicker and i never use wool pads before.
No doubt about it. I love wool.
i agree 100%
How about today, 4 years after your initial comment?
*Good **MyBest.Tools** power and rpm control.*
Great explanation. Thanks.
Your 3D ONE product worked miracles on my horrible first time at paint and clear coat job. 🙏
All I've ever used is the wool pad , you've shed a new light on this beast for me , air buffer is all I've ever used also . Thanks a bunch , planing on checking into buying a foam pad for my da air buffer . MB
Thanks for watching and sharing.
Man I'm years in and learning by myself. Many TH-cam videos and all. I've learned so much over the last year. This last 6 months has been life changing. I'm about to invest in a Rupes buffer and finally go with wool pads. I've been using G9 with foam pads. Bout to do both wool and foam. Thanks for this video!
I didn’t know that, about wool not being used to shine, thank you for an informative video.
hi mate !!
nicely explained. i had this query and your video has answered my queries. good learning. keep it up.
Me too you just solved a issue for me thanks
Very informative. You've cleared up all the mumbo jumbo in the industry about pads! Thanks! :)
Thank you.
@@3DCarCare Can you use your HD cut also if you work by hand and not machine ?
Clear and direct, thanks for the info!
Thank you
thanks for the video. trying to actually figure things out on my own now and don't have any supervisors telling me what to do. I would have assumed wool made more heat and was scared to even try one of those pads. I haven't used a rotary buffer in years so really not trying to fuck anything up, but having a tough time with deep scratches with it because I was scared to burn paint. Have a random orbit on the way as that's what I have grown used to, but in the end I need to find what works best in the fastest time.
Actually had the best results so far going over problem areas by hand with a more course foam with cut compound, then finishing up with a quick polish on the machine with another foam pad.
Thank you for your advice. That was very well explained as I am only a beginner and that made my automobile. This is all new to me.
Nice video very smooth !gets you informed !havent buffed in a few years but learned the hard way burning a few cars back then !retired but nothing like a beautiful finish !thank you !
I have been detailing for the past 150 years and from my experience all i can say is that experience is the best teacher.
So your over 150yrs old
You're like a great great great grandpa👍😁
I have almost 30 yrs polishing. Wool pads are definitely harsher but I never thought of using my infared thermometer to check! Cool...
I rarely use wool on base clear, unless it's badly damaged. If I wool cut, I then foam cut after, glaze and wax. I mostly do high end detailing and clean my stuff for sale.
Thanks for watching, Keep up the good work!
Why would u foam cut after wool? I saw my dads friend at the body shop do that the other day
Wool is very aggressive, so if you really want a high gloss and don't use glazes, then you're definitely going to need to cut with foam after the wool. The foam cutting reduces the fine swirls caused by the wool, and then ideally you would want to use a less aggressive polish and foam pad. To finish the final step I would go with a finishing pad and polish on a d/a polisher to remove the holograms and give you a high gloss finish.
It sounds like using a wool pad is like using a yellow Hex-Logic Pad; Chemical Guys say it's so harsh that you should follow with the standard orange Hex-Logic pad and the same compound to remove the marks left by the yellow one before moving onto the white pad with a finishing glaze. Personally I used a yellow pad to level out some excess touch-up paint which an orange pad was having little effect on; in all honesty, I didn't see the difference after following-up again with the orange pad and weirder-still, on other occasions I've seen the orange pad do more than the yellow pad after using it than before.
@@mattarnold198 - Same. I never got much out of either the orange or yellow. The green was the sleeper for me. Follow with the blue with a fine polish and seal or ultra finish with the red. Been using that set up since 2013.
Thank you for these demos, I'm trying to learn how to do a better job of caring for our cars.
I own a detailing business and for me it depends on what I'm buffing. If it's light swirl marks then I go with foam. If I have to do more of a hard cutting like light scratches,oxidization and fixing defects then I use a heavy cutting wool then finish it up with foam pads.
Knowledge! Thanks!
Good video, I use a foam pad for compounding and the wool pad for the final waxing and thats probably why I am getting spider webbing in my finish.
wool for compound foam with compound or polish. Never wool for polish.
Cut with wool and polish with foam, then wax by hand, best shine ever!
Why would you do all of that to only follow up with waxing by hand?
I agree
Pretty good! Appreciate the example of differentiation between wool & foam. (Also like your product)
Thanks for the clear info.
Thanks for your comment. and thanks for trying 3D Products
Hey I just bought your wax product. I didn’t know y’all existed until I found it on Amazon. Great product!
Wool pad + Rotory works well when removing scratches... Make sure you have enough compound; then i use a coarse foam pad with compound on a orbital quickly; then i polish with a medium foam pad or a softer one... Always have enough lubricant until it glazes over... Sounds time consuming right? It is
Thank you for a definitive explanation of the 2 types . I knew that from exoeriance, but I never felt confident in my choices. Now without doubt . Woo-hoo
The heat is a important catalyst in helping to make the paint slightly softer whilst cutting. That'll speed the process up. The wool will always cut flatting marks away the best and then it's a process of scratch pattern elimination which foams are best for.
Cut with wool, buff with foam.
Great video 🍺
Awesome I was looking for this answers
Clear and direct, thanks for the video
Glad it was helpful!
Just what I needed, thank you.
Thanks for your kind information
Great video full of info.
100% correct!
Thanks!
Thanks for showing celsius as well coz farenheit is like magic to me.
I prefer wool pads for cutting,its more forgiving and foam for finishing,great content👌
That is the way to do it right?
great video!!!! Thanks
Well done video, but I see you are using a single ply wool, maybe even a pre-wash wool and not twisted wool like so many have been using for years. I would agree with your choice of wool just to be more on the cautious side and to minimize swirl that twisted wool has long been associated with. I suppose if the user is adequately trained and experienced with the high speed buffer then he could use 100% twisted wool as a first step followed by foam as you suggest. Of course, what you do as your buffing strategy depends a lot on what was done prior to getting there in a fresh paint scenario. In other words, letting a modern hi solid paint sit out for a week or longer before buffing it is asking for problems, the key is timing. Next day if air dry or a few hours later after baking, in either case it's important to start working the paint within the prescribed time periods set by the paint manufacturer. If not, the clear turns rock hard and that is when the user ironically can damage the paint more when the whole intent is to repair it. There is also a penalty to pay if the user starts buffing the paint too early as well, something called "dye back".
Thanks for demonstrating the heat differences between wool and foam, something I've known for a long time and yes, foam can damage clear coat too! However, things have changed the past ten years in the industry on some key fronts. Recommended buffer speeds are slower, compounds break down more compared to "rocks in a box" compounds from the day, foam pads are on an upswing in popularity for what they do and more recently the introduction of effective "long throw" random orbit buffers. They have knocked down rotary buffers a notch or two due to the expanded performance of the long throw orbital machines.
Let's not forget forced rotation dual action polishers which have now evolved even more with big brands like Rupes and Makita !
The DA buffer has only knocked down the rotor buffer a notch or two for the less experienced user. Rotary is still most preferred by professional paint refinishers.
Great info!
As a professional detailer I have always used wool to cut out sanding marks and very deep scratches ! I've never experienced any problems with heat build up as you demonstrated in your video. Yes , foam for finishing definitively adds soo much gloss ! Great instructional video Donald .
Can you do a comparison with microfiber pads foam pads and wool pads?
Malco Mag1 with a 3M wool pad tops my list followed closely by Auto Magic GS-1 with wool.
Do these same specifics count when doing this all by hand?
What is the best way to clean wool pad... both during the job and finally at the end of it
3:48 - ventriloquist?
Can this method be used on a black kitchen sink that has faded over time and has been used to clean white paint brushes?
Good vid mate ,I’m in the uk so wouldn’t be using 3d products but in saying that it was a good informative demonstration thanks .i use this technique on polishing epoxy resin and it works a treat .👌
What is the life span of a wool and foam pads
So, which pad is best for removing oxidation from plastic headlights?
Wetsanding is the best and safest way to remove oxidation. But to answer the question, wool. You want to cut cut cut to get that oxidation off. That's why gelcoat guys still use those big twisted wool pads. To chop that oxidation off first, then refine it after.
Thanks for the video, been years since I've used anything but wax and elbow grease.... had no idea what foam pads were. (mechanic who occasionally helped buff cars in paint when slow).
One question I do have... kid bought a used truck, seller included touch-up paint with it. What would you recommend to use to shine it up, blend the factory/touch-up together? and then wax wise?
Great demonstration, I recently purchased several products off your website. Question though, should I use that wool pad with a DA, or is it recommended for a rotary? I saw you used a flex but they make several types. Thanks!
Wool is best used with a rotary polisher.
What grade sanding mark are you cutting?
wool for cutting
foam for polishing 👍
Thanks for the highlight
Thermometer. Thermometer. Thermometer. A thermostat is used for regulating temperature which is then measured with a thermometer.
Great info, thanks. I thought wool would heat up more than the foam.
Just beginning here, but it seems clear to me that any heating effect would be directly proportional to the speed the machine is moving, the pressure applied to the surface, the machine's rpm, as well as the amount of liquid on the pad. Lot of things come into play that affect heat generated, as I understand things.
Can I use the wool on headlights ?
Sure. I did my with it .. I use 1000 grit sand and a 3000 grit sand Then plastic compound and a wool pad attach to a drill for faster result. It was a kit from meguiars. And it come with a clear coat to apply with foam Cost me $29 on auto zone
@@CarlosChavez-cr3gd Did the same thing, looks great now. Though the wool pad did make a big splatter mess... hahah i never done such a think so i probably used to much.
I am a beginner at polishing, and I am interested in the ability to do paint, plastic, epoxy, glass, etc. How can you tell the grit equivalent of a buffing/polishing compound compared to sandpaper?
In an attempt to learn the different cuts and how they affect materials, I did some samples and have sanded some materials through the different stages from 800 up to 4000. I then tried some buffing compounds i over them at different times. I know I’m wasting my time and probably sanding with 3000 and then ruining it with a buffing compound that is 2000. When it gets very fine I can’t tell the difference so I’m wondering if there’s even a way to tell.
Also, why bother using a compound when you can just use sandpaper what is the advantage or difference?
.
I can not tell which grid your polishing paste is, but i guess that using a rotating machine is a lot faster than using sandpaper, except when you have rotary sandpaper pads on your machine. But i think that it is a lot cheaper to make a bottle of liquid with grid 4000 than 100 or 150 sandpaper pads with that grid
Hi so I'm a begginer... Just wanna get my car shinning... So should I go for the wool or the foam... As an inexperienced person
Cut with wool, finish with foam
wool
Use wool then foam? I use wool and it remove hair line marks very fast but it makes funny reflection on direct sun.Like you said wool can't give glossy shine!
Silly that you chose a Spider Pad, instead of a traditional foam pad that the majority of people are familiar with
Rupes disagrees about heat. Jason Rose indicates that heat is an unnecessary byproduct of polishing.
Concerning speed, I can understand a low speed for a 6" pad... but would higher speed be desirable for smaller pads? I'm thinking about 4000rpm for a tiny 1.25" pad? My little DA doesn't go any lower than 4000rmp. It's a Mirka AROS-150 and it's range is 4000 - 8000rpm.
You used 5x the product on foam pad compared to wool
foam users check in here!
For color sanding wool pad 1800 rpm for detailing is another history jjj semi pro real pro is the body shop for 100 years
I expected you to do a close-up to demonstrate that foam gives better shine than wool, but you didn't!
I just found out foam is much more dangerous
nice
I cut with foam myself!
That's a thermometer, not a thermostat.
Angel
wool all the way
ya and the foam will actually BURN your paint when you get to the edges...FACK THE FOAM..
The most erroneous and misleading detailing video I have ever seen.
The ONLY correct part was..foam compounding with rotary tends to be cooler vs any form of foam machinework.
We challenge you to back up what you say... post in the comments a link to your proof video, please.
Ha ha... And big mouth disappeared. Surely a kid who borrowed dad's laptop.
Ur talking too much not a good video
How much is too much?
You can FFWD...it was a good video
He gave exactly the info needed without rambling, IMO.
@@3DCarCare Lol, some people just want to be negative. Excellent work on the video. Informative. Direct. Clear in Audio & Video as well.
After doing body work for almost 30 years I went to polishing and prepping after a back injury. The polishing didn't help but I developed a terrible cough that finally went away after about a year and a half after no longer doing that work. I believe the cough came from inhaling dust created by the disintegration of foam pads as it creates a very fine dust that is terrible on lungs in my opinion. I used a mask but didn't when polishing as I didn't feel a need to.
You didn't get checked out? That could have been anything that caused that.
@@AllAmericanGuy01 agreed but I suspect there was a relation to the fine black dust created by disintegrating black foam pads.
@@AllAmericanGuy01 I did go to a doctor who only prescribed antibiotics. Cough persisted but went away after I left the work. Always used a dust mask or respirator doing body work or welding but when polishing I thought it was nothing to worry about. I think the foam dust is a definite health risk . Just saying
I do believe foam gives a much better final shine but used nothing but wool in the old days as that was all we had