I am new to this and I learn so much through other peoples questions. Questions I would not have thought off. I just got two Rupes machines and I am loving them.
HAHA! Well, we appreciate you watching it now or right when it is released. Thanks for submitting the question and hopefully Jason got you the answer you needed.
RUPES Yes definitely! I was always on the understanding Wool was really harsh like those big wool pads you see on Rotary. Didn’t know they have changed and are less harsh than Microfibre. I’m going to buy myself some Yellow Wool pads to test
@@ItsRyan. It is a common misconception. Wool was tied to rotary and as a result people just assumed that wool = really aggressive pads. The wool in our DA wool pads is completely different and offers an incredible range of cutting and finishing. Glad you'll be giving them a try!
@@donjohnson9893 Glad you enjoyed it. Rotary should be respected, but not feared. You are correct - many people falsely associate rotary with wool pads, and the opposite is true too. Many people assume that you cannot finish with wool based on the experience of twisted wool pads on a rotary. Our DA wool pads, while made of wool, are very different and have completely different performance characteristics. Thanks for your comment!
A hologram would only be introduced if you're using a rotary. That is a side effect of the movement more than anything else. A haze, regardless of tool type, would be paint dependent. On a harder paint it is unlikely you'd see a haze. On softer paints an aggressive pad like blue wool would potentially leave a haze and in that situation you should adjust your pad choice or use UNO Protect as a 2nd step for refinement after a more aggressive cutting step with something like D-A Coarse.
Where does Uno Pure and the white pad come into play? Mainly for paint with very a soft clearcoat, otherwise just go with the Fine polish and yellow pad?
You're pretty much correct... UNO Pure would be the choice when you need something to finish down extremely fine defects, or you're dealing with a soft (problematic) clear coat that doesn't respond well to other products. It could also be used in place of DA Fine in a situation where the cutting step was done with DA Coarse, and it finished almost where you need it, but just need a tiny amount of refinement.
I will be doing my first paint correction so I got myself some yellow wool pads and yellow foam pads, as adviced in this video. Anything I should be aware of when using wool as a beginner? My car has hard paint btw.
Would be wonderful if you could make some maritime specific videoes (gel coat). Would be awesome to see you guys working on a boat every once in a while. Love your vids. Kris Norway
Great suggestion! And one we've seen a few times. We're actually working on a training program for marine applications as well as video content to support that. We hope to release that in the not-to-distant future.
Thanks.just the question i was going to ask, would i get a better finish with the yellow foam apposed to the yellow wool? If so why would someone chose to finish with the yellow wool?? Cheers
Thanks for commenting. It really depends on a number of variables - level of defect/sand scratch, paint hardness, tool choice, air cured vs. force cured, etc. Some paints have very specific sanding and buffing windows in which they are easy to correct, then become incredibly hard to correct outside of that window. Product choice would vary from paint to paint.
If I wanted to purchase the Blue, Yellow & White foam pads in this video, where would I have to look on your profile cause I can't seem to find them ??
Thanks for posting your question. We do not sell direct, but you can find links to our distributor locator on our website in the description of any video on our channel.
The video I would like to see is how can an average detailing enthusiast determine the hardness or softness of a particular car's paint? Is it based on the clearcoat thickness, or its substrate, or even the age of the vehicle?
Thanks for the comment. We actually have several videos that focus on the test spot (linked below), and that is the only way (professional or enthusiast) to know. You cannot make a judgement based on make/model because the variability in factory finishes, collision repair vs. oem, etc. You can not make a visual assessment because looking at the paint tells you nothing about hardness. The only way to truly know what you're working on is to do a test spot and evaluate the result. BigFoot 101 Chapter 4 - The Test Spot th-cam.com/video/N1Zoc2W2Tbo/w-d-xo.html RUPES Replies - The Test Spot th-cam.com/video/0Z79_1h2SyA/w-d-xo.html
Best advice for this type of video would be "show, don't tell". I know in general theory the aggression progression is microfiber, wool, foam...however as a DIY guy I'm not sure what I need based on what paint defects I have. I have a 2017 Mazda CX-9 in Gun Metal Gray, and a 2020 Honda Civic Si Coupe in Platinum White. So far to do a proper 2 to 3 step correction I bought 5", 3", and 2" pads in Blue Wool, Yellow Foam, and White Foam (to be used with a 20mm long throw 5" DA, and a 8mm 3"/2" DA polishers). As far as compounds/polishes, I have Meguiars 110, 210, and 83 Cleaner Polish, Sonax Cutmax, and Rupes Uno Pure Polish. My question is do I need to add the microfiber pads into my current system, before I get started? Or are the blue wool, yellow foam, and finishing white, enough range to do what I need?
There is absolutely no way to know that until you put product to paint and perform a test spot. The variables of paint hardness, defect severity, operator technique, ambient conditions, etc all come into play.
@@RUPES there has to be a way to recommend a starting range of products to a customer, besides "buy everything we have". In my case the cars have been mostly parked outdoors in a driveway all their lives, in Northeastern PA, and NYC. They have your average wear and tear on the paint from rain, winter driving, automatic car washes, swirls and love marks from towel wipe downs. This is why I suggested you do a tutorial for when to use various pads, and actually show the type of defects that they will correct. Then people have some baseline to work off of.
The variable of paint hardness still complicates this. A demo on specific pads vs. specific defects would still only apply to that level of paint hardness. If you pay attention to the video, at around 2:30 the suggestion for pads with the widest range of performance is the DA Yellow Wool and DA Yellow Foam. Those 2 pads provide the best chance for success on the most paints.
I would love to see you guys set up a data base for paint types and suggesting machine/compound/pad for example VW golf recommendations vs Ford recommendations etc etc. I know this would be very complicated but with good feedback from your users it would be a great advantage for your products.
Thanks for your comment. Unfortunately, the reality is that you cannot truly catalog all cars/manufacturers that way. An identical car, of the identical year, and identical color, but produced maybe months apart can have different clears. OEM factories always have at least 2 paint suppliers ready to provide material and can change at any moment due to supply, process, or any other number of reasons. So cataloging by make/model is a bit of a fools errand. We do, however have the paint correction app, which allows you to choose the paint type (test spot should tell you what you're working on) defect type, and tool choice to determine our official recommendation of pad and compound that has the highest chance for success based on our research. app.rupes.com/paint-correction
Thanks for watching - check out this video for recommendations on tool speed: What Speed Should I Run My Polisher? [RUPES Replies - Episode 007] th-cam.com/video/K3s3SVid0o4/w-d-xo.html
Depends on what the goal is. If it is defect removal, yes wool would be preferred. If it is gloss enhancement it may not be the best choice. A lot will also depend on the type of liquid being used with the pad and the tool movement.
So glad I found these videos , I’m currently building my rupes tools already with a mrk iii 15 and a mini, saving now for the ibrid, I’m looking to get the large semi rigid bag to store and carry my 2 larger tools, is this suitable or better a bag each ? Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks for watching and thanks for choosing RUPES! As far as the bags go - its a lot of personal preference. They'll definitely both fit, but that tends to get heavy with multiple tools and supplies in one bag. If you have to carry them a lot or run into situations where only one is being used sometimes separate bags is good.
RUPES thanks for that, knowing me and my ocd I’ll like the idea of a bag each with its own size pads lol, the ibrid I believe comes with it’s own storage box and foam inserts 👍🏻 thanks again , the how to videos will really help my confidence to get going , will attend a rupes course someday also 👍🏻
The white foam pad is our softest material and can be used to apply non-abrasive products if you choose to use it that way. We have not, however, validated its performance for products other than our own so using it with graphene based coatings or other products would be up to you to test and validate performance.
We have a great series of videos that will outline the process of pad priming, application, and reload. The playlist is linked below. Check out the chapters 3 (priming), 4 (test spot), and 5 (application) specifically. BigFoot 101: the basics of the BigFoot polishing system - th-cam.com/play/PLkX3qMzwBy1EOnBML1roW5F_CDx3eblWy.html
I have a freshly painted classic vehicle in which I am wetsanding the clear after about a month after painting. I am starting with 1500 grit wet, and working up to 3000 grit with dry guide coat. I have your bigfoot lhr21 mark 3 polisher and may be investing in the lhr75 mini. What pad do you recommend and compound? Thanks
Thanks for commenting. Paint hardness and quality of sanding marks are both variables that will impact this. In general the blue D-A Coarse Wool and D-A Coarse compound would be a good place to start, but depending on your particular paint there may need to be adjustments based on how it responds.
I use a rotary polisher and I have foam pads already and just gonna stick to rotary instead of buying a dual action. I don't have a rupes though and my pad is a 7 inch pad.
Thanks for watching - we won’t be doing that video because the backing plates you’re referring to are not recommended and not our product. It would be worth your time to to watch the myths webinar - we cover the myth of rotation stall and scientifically show that the rotation is only a very small percentage of the movement on an orbital tool. The concept that these aftermarket plates are sold on that they significantly increase correction by increasing rotation is simply not true. On a 150mm (6”) even if the plate could increase average RPM by 60 over the stock plate, the MAXIMUM gain in edge speed would be 10%... and that’s only at the pads edge. Polishing Myths, BUSTED! - [RUPES C.O.R.E. Series Webinar] th-cam.com/video/4yDU4CWAISU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and commenting! We actually addressed that specific question in last weeks episode, which you can watch here: th-cam.com/video/PMSsRQbCyYk/w-d-xo.html Don't forget to subscribe to get notifications when we upload new content to the channel.
I have an oscillating turtle wax polisher, used it with a burgundy red (Hard) foam pad and Sonax Profiline Cut Max on my black Audi S4. It did the trick however you can still see swirls and scratches ever so slightly and it annoys me haha.. The paint is extremely hard on this one. I was interested in a microfiber pad from Rupes Im guessing its the right way to go considering the fact that I want to step upp the aggression/abrasivenes?
Thanks for watching and commenting. We're not familiar with that polisher and can't really know what type of pad you were working with based only on the color, especially when it is not one of ours, used with a compound from another company. Suffice to say, any input on a scenario that far departed from our system based approach is nothing more than a guess. Will microfiber be more aggressive than foam? Yes, in nearly all cases. Will you see an improved result? Impossible to say based on the number of variables.
That would be correct. A single action orbital tends to be an incredibly weak movement (and also typically quite small orbit) so the ability for it to actually correct the finish is low. Tools like this are generally best suited to applying a wax, but not actually correcting the defects.
thank you for the video it's very informative, i have a question something you touched on in this video, what determines the paint hardness, is it the difference between 2k direct gloss to a more modern basecoat/clearcoat system or the age of the paint on the vehicle or if the car has been resprayed etc? if anyone can answer this i'd be very interested to know
Thanks for your question. It is important to understand that the goal of the system is to finish in 1, at most 2 steps. Doing 3 steps should be an anomaly on only the most troublesome applications. We would suggest that after using the wool pads, if there is a haze or any additional defects to be addressed you test to define which product combination will complete the job in the second step. Sometimes it may be yellow. Sometimes it may be white. Sometimes the finish will be so good after the compounding step you do not need to perform a second step! We offer the range of Coarse, Fine, and Ultrafine to give you options for specific situations, not to create more steps.
Every pad materials has its place, but certainly our most current generation of wool pads have a wide range of performance and produce some incredible results. Thanks for commenting!
Hello I have light defects on my 2020 Stelvio I was thinking of using Uno Pure with a white foam pad with a slow arm speed and increased down pressure and small sections or using a yellow wool pad. I was also thinking of using yellow fine polish with a yellow foam pad but I don’t know if that would be too much cutting and unnecessary. Any thought on what you recommend please ? Also how many wool pads would you recommend doing a small suv ? Can one pad do a whole car ? Thank you !
Almost impossible to say until you do a test spot and determine what the paint responds to, and what gets you to the level of finish quality you're looking for. The good news is, it sounds like you understand the concept of technique adjustments to maximize/minimize cut rate and finish so if you start somewhere in the middle (yellow foam and DA Fine compound) you can make some adjustments to get more or less out of it. As far as number of pads - this video will be really helpful in explaining that: th-cam.com/video/m-PIDUzIIRY/w-d-xo.html
@@RUPES yes I was thinking of doing a test spot with the uno pure with a white foam pad, because the defects on my car are fine and not that bad, if I don’t like the results I’m getting than I’ll jump into the yellow pad with the yellow da polish compound. I’m very excited I just bought the LHR15 Mark 3 and a bunch of yellow and white foam pads and both polishing compounds. Iv been watching all of your videos ! Thanks for your help !
Hi guys. When you say hard paint and soft paint, are you referring to the clear coat or the actual paint? My understanding is that you don’t get to work with the paint, but actually the clear coat.... can you please school me correctly?😅
We're referring to whatever the top layer is and clear coat is paint, just paint without pigment in it. So regardless of whether you're talking about a single stage paint job or a base coat/clear coat paint job it is all paint.
@@RUPES thanks for that quick response, I’ve really been schooled😅👌🏼 How many agents do you have in South Africa 🇿🇦 that are selling your products? For us who are looking forward to getting our hands on a Rupes?
Thanks for watching and thanks for posting your question. "Buffing off" wax or polish is something born out of the use of old bonnet style orbital (not dual action orbital, just orbital) machines. These are usually very inexpensive, low power, tools that do not have a backing plate, but a head that a bonnet (usually terry cloth or microfiber) would be stretched over. The movement of that tool mimics the movement of what your hand does wiping a residue away. Just orbits, no rotation. This doesn't really add any benefit to the result, it just takes the manual effort out of the process. With the types of tools we manufacturer the process, even in the ultrafine range, is going to be abrasive. It is physically removing a microscopic amount of the surface to level and remove defects. Because of this we would not want to use the tool to remove any residues b/c it is going to continue to abrade the surface, and likely not in a beneficial or consistent way. To that end, with the processes we're discussing here (paint correction) you would use the tool to perform the process, then remove the residues by hand with a microfiber towel. The amount of residue and difficulty or removal when used properly is so minimal that the aid of a machine would have very little benefit, even if it were a recommended process. It isn't like buffing off the heavy/sticky waxes of yesteryear. Hope that helps!
Hello, how do you tell if the paint is hard vs soft.. ? I suppose there would eventually be some sort of AI based app that produces a cutting compound/material recommendation based on what the manufacturer typically puts down as an OEM finish
Thanks for commenting. While it may not have artificial intelligence, we do have an app to help guide your choices for product combos - www.rupes.com/web-app/ The only way to know if a paint is hard or soft is to perform a test spot. We have several videos that cover this topic that will be linked below. Also, do not catalog paint hardness by brand of car. They change processes and paint suppliers frequently which means paint hardness car vary even in the same model year for the same color. BigFoot 101: th-cam.com/play/PLkX3qMzwBy1EOnBML1roW5F_CDx3eblWy.html Should you do a test spot: th-cam.com/video/0Z79_1h2SyA/w-d-xo.html
@@RUPES ah this is great information - Thanks so much for getting back to me/us so quickly - not many tool manufacturers interact with their audience the way you do!
Hi RUPES Ive just bought the LH19E and the Nano Ibrid, and i have a LHR15 MKIII, i have microfiber, wool and foam pads, same with the rotary (blue and yellow) and regular polishing compounds (blue green yellow and white) i did a test section on my volkswagen golf mkiv with the rotary + blue foam pad and blue compound with almost zero progress, what setup and machine should i use for maximum cutting, also what kind of speeds on the different machines should i use? ive worked at a automotive paintshop and we've always used rotary, and he told me it has the biggest cut, is that true? - i hope its not too many questions =) Greetings from denmark =)
Thank you for commenting. It sounds like you may be using pads and compounds intended for orbital tools with your rotary. That combination will not generally be very effective. For maximum cutting with rotary you would want our coarse, twisted wool, rotary pads (part code in the 9.BL___H series) and coarse rotary compound. If you are trying to maximize cut with the LHR15 then the choice would be the coarse microfiber disc and blue ( DA Coarse or Zephir Coarse) compounds. There are many variable to consider as well that are probably too many to discuss in the comments of TH-cam. You can always contact us directly for more assistance www.rupes.com/contact-us
If the compound gets sticky it is typically an indication of a couple things: 1) too much product is being used 2) the product is being over-cycled (worked for too long) 3) the pad is not being cleaned frequently enough So for solutions: 1) Reduce the amount of compound you are using per application 2) Shorten your cycle time with the compound 3) Use compressed air to blow out residues from the pad after each application.
Has the green foam been removed from the line up? The explanation of the mf vs wool makes sense to me now after using some of the original yellow mf pads when the came out and would load up quickly. Great segment. Is there a video already showing or talking about the abilities of the wool on a rotary vs da to get a good cut and finish?
Thanks for the comment Mason. Yes - green is being phased out from the line as the new blue has been developed to cover and exceed the range covered by the previous green and blue pads combined. As far as the comparison of wool on different tools. While a rotary wool pad and a DA wool pad are both made from wool, they are very different! The type of wool and how the pads are constructed are for very different purposes. It is possible to achieve a very high level of finish on DA wool, not so much on a rotary wool. Our newer generation of rotary wool pads have far more finishing ability than anything like them before, however they are still not going to be on the same level of DA pads for that purpose.
I've an issue when i used yellow wool pad on random orbital, already have prime before and after that why the surface hard to buff ? And leave many scrach..
I'm not sure I understand the nature of your question. If you'd like to discuss the specific situation in more detail please send us a message via our contact us page. This will allow us to receive pictures and get a better idea of what exactly the issue is that you are encountering. www.rupes.com/contact-us
Not sure we understand what you mean with this comment. You can find references to our part numbers for the various pads on our website (linked in the video description)
Hi all I have a 2019 VW Tiguan and metallic dark gray. It has very light swirls that you can only see in certain angles of sunlight. I have tried the yellow foam pad with Sonax Perfect finish (Sorry) but it hasn't done hardly a thing to remove them. Would the wool Yellow pad be the next choice to try? Kind Regards, Ryan.
Could be, could also not be. It will take some testing to determine what the best combo for the particular paint is. Sometimes the adjustment is a pad, sometimes the liquid, sometimes both. If you haven't yet, check out this video on test spots from another episode in the series: th-cam.com/video/0Z79_1h2SyA/w-d-xo.html
Thank goodness theres a manufacturer out there who WANTS to remove the mystique over pads and products for everyone new to the game. Unlike other manufacturer who seem to want your make it more difficult.....by encouraging the purchase of more products and more polishes
Used yesterday a microfiber pad extreme cut on a fresh paint. Did nothing lol, literal was unable to remove 2000 3m sand paper did with 3000 on top and yet 0 result. I had to use blue foam..
Thank you for your comment. This is precisely why we have reduced the number of compounds in our line, streamlined the pad offering, and provide educational content. To "uncomplicate" the process of paint correction. With the ever changing variable of paint, including OEM surfaces that are farther to the soft and hard end of the spectrum, thinner OEM applications, water-borne clear coats, and other factors the process of paint correction is not so complex, however the surface being corrected is constantly introducing new variables and complexities that the technician must learn to diagnose, interpret, and adjust for.
Thanks for commenting. That is a question with a lot of potential answers because there are so many variables. Technically all pads can do what you're asking, but the level of defect, hardness of paint, tool movement, etc. all impact the potential result. If you'd like some more specific technical info please contact us directly www.rupes.com/contact-us
Okkay im now even more confused why people dont use wool pad on rotary, this days are all about random orbital.. Da ,......... soo when do you use rotary
Thanks for commenting. First thing to understand is that the dynamics of heat and the types of wool we're discussing in this video have very little direct correlation to rotary movement. The way heat manifests and the behavior on the paint are very different so you can't apply DA consumables and logic to rotary polishing or the other way around. In the last 10 years polishing technology has evolved to make orbital, specifically large stroke random orbital and gear driven orbital, cover a wider range of applications. Rotary remains king when it comes to rate of material removal, but in the moderate to light correction space a rotary is largely unnecessary in most applications. Rotary is still the absolute best movement, with wool, on oxidized gel coat, on surfaces where rapid material removal is needed, primarily heavy cutting activities. In some cases many bodyshops users prefer to cut with rotary then finish with DA. The discussion is not really one vs. the other and more which one is right and when.
![Electric Tool Maintenance - Dos and Don'ts of Electric Tool Care - [RUPES Replies Episode 004]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0NcJjHLZ4AQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Electric Tool Maintenance - Dos and Don'ts of Electric Tool Care - [RUPES Replies Episode 004]](/img/tr.png)
![Optimizing iBrid Nano Performance - [RUPES Replies Episode 022]](/img/n.gif)
This the best condensed answer. Liked.
Great. Thank you. We're glad you enjoyed it.
I am new to this and I learn so much through other peoples questions. Questions I would not have thought off. I just got two Rupes machines and I am loving them.
Fantastic! Thank you for watching and commenting. And thank you for choosing RUPES!
Rupes all the way Top brand Highly recommend This brand any day
Time to turn the bell on! I missed this video and i asked the darn question! Glad i caught it now
HAHA! Well, we appreciate you watching it now or right when it is released. Thanks for submitting the question and hopefully Jason got you the answer you needed.
RUPES Yes definitely! I was always on the understanding Wool was really harsh like those big wool pads you see on Rotary. Didn’t know they have changed and are less harsh than Microfibre. I’m going to buy myself some Yellow Wool pads to test
@@ItsRyan. It is a common misconception. Wool was tied to rotary and as a result people just assumed that wool = really aggressive pads. The wool in our DA wool pads is completely different and offers an incredible range of cutting and finishing. Glad you'll be giving them a try!
RUPES this is a GREAT explanation . Everyone is scared bc of rotary wool .
@@donjohnson9893 Glad you enjoyed it. Rotary should be respected, but not feared. You are correct - many people falsely associate rotary with wool pads, and the opposite is true too. Many people assume that you cannot finish with wool based on the experience of twisted wool pads on a rotary. Our DA wool pads, while made of wool, are very different and have completely different performance characteristics. Thanks for your comment!
Are all yellow foam pads the same ? And also the wool yellow pad where does it stand?
When is the best time to use a wool pad vs a foam pad???
Does Uno protect with a blue wool pad leave a haze or hologram on black paint?
A hologram would only be introduced if you're using a rotary. That is a side effect of the movement more than anything else. A haze, regardless of tool type, would be paint dependent. On a harder paint it is unlikely you'd see a haze. On softer paints an aggressive pad like blue wool would potentially leave a haze and in that situation you should adjust your pad choice or use UNO Protect as a 2nd step for refinement after a more aggressive cutting step with something like D-A Coarse.
Thanks, good to know.
Glad to help
Where does Uno Pure and the white pad come into play? Mainly for paint with very a soft clearcoat, otherwise just go with the Fine polish and yellow pad?
You're pretty much correct... UNO Pure would be the choice when you need something to finish down extremely fine defects, or you're dealing with a soft (problematic) clear coat that doesn't respond well to other products. It could also be used in place of DA Fine in a situation where the cutting step was done with DA Coarse, and it finished almost where you need it, but just need a tiny amount of refinement.
*Thanks for sharing this information . it was very helpful.*
What’s better for oxidation on a boat microfibre or wool?
How do you know/determine if a paint is soft or hard?
I will be doing my first paint correction so I got myself some yellow wool pads and yellow foam pads, as adviced in this video. Anything I should be aware of when using wool as a beginner? My car has hard paint btw.
Would be wonderful if you could make some maritime specific videoes (gel coat). Would be awesome to see you guys working on a boat every once in a while. Love your vids.
Kris
Norway
Great suggestion! And one we've seen a few times. We're actually working on a training program for marine applications as well as video content to support that. We hope to release that in the not-to-distant future.
Great video. Now I understand. Thank you.
Great. Glad it was helpful
What’s the best pad for adding wax to a vehicle with an Orbital polisher?
You’d want a pad with no abrasive (cutting) so our white foam pad would be the best choice.
@@RUPES awesome! Thanks!
Thanks.just the question i was going to ask, would i get a better finish with the yellow foam apposed to the yellow wool? If so why would someone chose to finish with the yellow wool?? Cheers
Nice and simple, unlike the other videos with useless blabbering information 🎉🎉🎉 Great Video
freshly painted panels .. flattened back what is best process for buffing up and ..which pads..
Thanks for commenting. It really depends on a number of variables - level of defect/sand scratch, paint hardness, tool choice, air cured vs. force cured, etc. Some paints have very specific sanding and buffing windows in which they are easy to correct, then become incredibly hard to correct outside of that window. Product choice would vary from paint to paint.
This is some great info, especially for a newb like me!
If I wanted to purchase the Blue, Yellow & White foam pads in this video, where would I have to look on your profile cause I can't seem to find them ??
Thanks for posting your question. We do not sell direct, but you can find links to our distributor locator on our website in the description of any video on our channel.
The video I would like to see is how can an average detailing enthusiast determine the hardness or softness of a particular car's paint? Is it based on the clearcoat thickness, or its substrate, or even the age of the vehicle?
Thanks for the comment. We actually have several videos that focus on the test spot (linked below), and that is the only way (professional or enthusiast) to know. You cannot make a judgement based on make/model because the variability in factory finishes, collision repair vs. oem, etc. You can not make a visual assessment because looking at the paint tells you nothing about hardness. The only way to truly know what you're working on is to do a test spot and evaluate the result.
BigFoot 101 Chapter 4 - The Test Spot th-cam.com/video/N1Zoc2W2Tbo/w-d-xo.html
RUPES Replies - The Test Spot th-cam.com/video/0Z79_1h2SyA/w-d-xo.html
Best advice for this type of video would be "show, don't tell". I know in general theory the aggression progression is microfiber, wool, foam...however as a DIY guy I'm not sure what I need based on what paint defects I have.
I have a 2017 Mazda CX-9 in Gun Metal Gray, and a 2020 Honda Civic Si Coupe in Platinum White. So far to do a proper 2 to 3 step correction I bought 5", 3", and 2" pads in Blue Wool, Yellow Foam, and White Foam (to be used with a 20mm long throw 5" DA, and a 8mm 3"/2" DA polishers). As far as compounds/polishes, I have Meguiars 110, 210, and 83 Cleaner Polish, Sonax Cutmax, and Rupes Uno Pure Polish.
My question is do I need to add the microfiber pads into my current system, before I get started? Or are the blue wool, yellow foam, and finishing white, enough range to do what I need?
There is absolutely no way to know that until you put product to paint and perform a test spot. The variables of paint hardness, defect severity, operator technique, ambient conditions, etc all come into play.
@@RUPES there has to be a way to recommend a starting range of products to a customer, besides "buy everything we have". In my case the cars have been mostly parked outdoors in a driveway all their lives, in Northeastern PA, and NYC. They have your average wear and tear on the paint from rain, winter driving, automatic car washes, swirls and love marks from towel wipe downs.
This is why I suggested you do a tutorial for when to use various pads, and actually show the type of defects that they will correct. Then people have some baseline to work off of.
The variable of paint hardness still complicates this. A demo on specific pads vs. specific defects would still only apply to that level of paint hardness.
If you pay attention to the video, at around 2:30 the suggestion for pads with the widest range of performance is the DA Yellow Wool and DA Yellow Foam. Those 2 pads provide the best chance for success on the most paints.
Thank you for the video 👍
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Thank you again for this tip. By the way Congrats and thank you all for today's Webinar presentation.
Thank you for watching and thanks for joining us on the webinar!
absolutely spot on
when you said that wool pad and yellow sponge pad is the narrowed down perfect combo, I went BINGO
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I would love to see you guys set up a data base for paint types and suggesting machine/compound/pad for example VW golf recommendations vs Ford recommendations etc etc. I know this would be very complicated but with good feedback from your users it would be a great advantage for your products.
Thanks for your comment. Unfortunately, the reality is that you cannot truly catalog all cars/manufacturers that way. An identical car, of the identical year, and identical color, but produced maybe months apart can have different clears. OEM factories always have at least 2 paint suppliers ready to provide material and can change at any moment due to supply, process, or any other number of reasons. So cataloging by make/model is a bit of a fools errand.
We do, however have the paint correction app, which allows you to choose the paint type (test spot should tell you what you're working on) defect type, and tool choice to determine our official recommendation of pad and compound that has the highest chance for success based on our research.
app.rupes.com/paint-correction
Thanks, what is the best speed to cut and polish vehicle?
Thanks for watching - check out this video for recommendations on tool speed:
What Speed Should I Run My Polisher? [RUPES Replies - Episode 007]
th-cam.com/video/K3s3SVid0o4/w-d-xo.html
Is wool pad is the better in polishing stainless steel
Depends on what the goal is. If it is defect removal, yes wool would be preferred. If it is gloss enhancement it may not be the best choice. A lot will also depend on the type of liquid being used with the pad and the tool movement.
So glad I found these videos , I’m currently building my rupes tools already with a mrk iii 15 and a mini, saving now for the ibrid, I’m looking to get the large semi rigid bag to store and carry my 2 larger tools, is this suitable or better a bag each ? Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks for watching and thanks for choosing RUPES!
As far as the bags go - its a lot of personal preference. They'll definitely both fit, but that tends to get heavy with multiple tools and supplies in one bag. If you have to carry them a lot or run into situations where only one is being used sometimes separate bags is good.
RUPES thanks for that, knowing me and my ocd I’ll like the idea of a bag each with its own size pads lol, the ibrid I believe comes with it’s own storage box and foam inserts 👍🏻 thanks again , the how to videos will really help my confidence to get going , will attend a rupes course someday also 👍🏻
@@matthewsavidge6248 the ibrid does indeed have a beautiful bag with foam inserts and a place for all the pads and extra bits you'll accumulate.
Is the white rupes pad the best for applying Graphene?
The white foam pad is our softest material and can be used to apply non-abrasive products if you choose to use it that way. We have not, however, validated its performance for products other than our own so using it with graphene based coatings or other products would be up to you to test and validate performance.
Can you the same video but with your compound and polishing products,?
Already in the works! Thanks for watching
How much polish or compound to apply on each pad range from microfibre wool and foam and the speed to do the work? Thank you?
We have a great series of videos that will outline the process of pad priming, application, and reload. The playlist is linked below. Check out the chapters 3 (priming), 4 (test spot), and 5 (application) specifically.
BigFoot 101: the basics of the BigFoot polishing system - th-cam.com/play/PLkX3qMzwBy1EOnBML1roW5F_CDx3eblWy.html
Thanks,for to the point info!
No problem!
I have a freshly painted classic vehicle in which I am wetsanding the clear after about a month after painting. I am starting with 1500 grit wet, and working up to 3000 grit with dry guide coat. I have your bigfoot lhr21 mark 3 polisher and may be investing in the lhr75 mini. What pad do you recommend and compound? Thanks
Thanks for commenting. Paint hardness and quality of sanding marks are both variables that will impact this. In general the blue D-A Coarse Wool and D-A Coarse compound would be a good place to start, but depending on your particular paint there may need to be adjustments based on how it responds.
Totally agree, the two yellows will do just about everything especially for home users like me.
Awesome. Thanks for watching.
I use a rotary polisher and I have foam pads already and just gonna stick to rotary instead of buying a dual action. I don't have a rupes though and my pad is a 7 inch pad.
Could you do a video of backing plates? I have seen some backing plates that offer a faster rotation which yield a quicker correction
Thanks for watching - we won’t be doing that video because the backing plates you’re referring to are not recommended and not our product. It would be worth your time to to watch the myths webinar - we cover the myth of rotation stall and scientifically show that the rotation is only a very small percentage of the movement on an orbital tool. The concept that these aftermarket plates are sold on that they significantly increase correction by increasing rotation is simply not true. On a 150mm (6”) even if the plate could increase average RPM by 60 over the stock plate, the MAXIMUM gain in edge speed would be 10%... and that’s only at the pads edge.
Polishing Myths, BUSTED! - [RUPES C.O.R.E. Series Webinar] th-cam.com/video/4yDU4CWAISU/w-d-xo.html
What is the hardness of Lamborghini paints on current models?
Great video! Really helps us when getting started!
Glad it was helpful!
Which pad is best for polycarbonate means headlights?
Thanks for watching and commenting! We actually addressed that specific question in last weeks episode, which you can watch here: th-cam.com/video/PMSsRQbCyYk/w-d-xo.html
Don't forget to subscribe to get notifications when we upload new content to the channel.
@@RUPES okay, thank you sir.
I have an oscillating turtle wax polisher, used it with a burgundy red (Hard) foam pad and Sonax Profiline Cut Max on my black Audi S4. It did the trick however you can still see swirls and scratches ever so slightly and it annoys me haha.. The paint is extremely hard on this one. I was interested in a microfiber pad from Rupes Im guessing its the right way to go considering the fact that I want to step upp the aggression/abrasivenes?
Thanks for watching and commenting. We're not familiar with that polisher and can't really know what type of pad you were working with based only on the color, especially when it is not one of ours, used with a compound from another company. Suffice to say, any input on a scenario that far departed from our system based approach is nothing more than a guess. Will microfiber be more aggressive than foam? Yes, in nearly all cases. Will you see an improved result? Impossible to say based on the number of variables.
@@RUPES I understand, would you consider an oscillating machine more of a "waxing machine" rather than something to use when cutting is preferable?
That would be correct. A single action orbital tends to be an incredibly weak movement (and also typically quite small orbit) so the ability for it to actually correct the finish is low. Tools like this are generally best suited to applying a wax, but not actually correcting the defects.
So is there any option to enter rupes detailing academy im from slovenia :) and where i can i get all information ?
To discuss training options for your area please contact our offices www.rupes.com/contact-us
thank you for the video it's very informative, i have a question something you touched on in this video, what determines the paint hardness, is it the difference between 2k direct gloss to a more modern basecoat/clearcoat system or the age of the paint on the vehicle or if the car has been resprayed etc? if anyone can answer this i'd be very interested to know
Hi, do I still need to finish up using the yellow & white foam pad for final steps after done using the yellow wool pad? Thanks!
Thanks for your question. It is important to understand that the goal of the system is to finish in 1, at most 2 steps. Doing 3 steps should be an anomaly on only the most troublesome applications. We would suggest that after using the wool pads, if there is a haze or any additional defects to be addressed you test to define which product combination will complete the job in the second step. Sometimes it may be yellow. Sometimes it may be white. Sometimes the finish will be so good after the compounding step you do not need to perform a second step! We offer the range of Coarse, Fine, and Ultrafine to give you options for specific situations, not to create more steps.
Wool is king always will be the results will speak for itself everytime
Every pad materials has its place, but certainly our most current generation of wool pads have a wide range of performance and produce some incredible results. Thanks for commenting!
Hello I have light defects on my 2020 Stelvio I was thinking of using Uno Pure with a white foam pad with a slow arm speed and increased down pressure and small sections or using a yellow wool pad. I was also thinking of using yellow fine polish with a yellow foam pad but I don’t know if that would be too much cutting and unnecessary. Any thought on what you recommend please ? Also how many wool pads would you recommend doing a small suv ? Can one pad do a whole car ? Thank you !
Almost impossible to say until you do a test spot and determine what the paint responds to, and what gets you to the level of finish quality you're looking for. The good news is, it sounds like you understand the concept of technique adjustments to maximize/minimize cut rate and finish so if you start somewhere in the middle (yellow foam and DA Fine compound) you can make some adjustments to get more or less out of it.
As far as number of pads - this video will be really helpful in explaining that: th-cam.com/video/m-PIDUzIIRY/w-d-xo.html
@@RUPES yes I was thinking of doing a test spot with the uno pure with a white foam pad, because the defects on my car are fine and not that bad, if I don’t like the results I’m getting than I’ll jump into the yellow pad with the yellow da polish compound. I’m very excited I just bought the LHR15 Mark 3 and a bunch of yellow and white foam pads and both polishing compounds. Iv been watching all of your videos ! Thanks for your help !
Hi guys.
When you say hard paint and soft paint, are you referring to the clear coat or the actual paint?
My understanding is that you don’t get to work with the paint, but actually the clear coat.... can you please school me correctly?😅
We're referring to whatever the top layer is and clear coat is paint, just paint without pigment in it. So regardless of whether you're talking about a single stage paint job or a base coat/clear coat paint job it is all paint.
@@RUPES thanks for that quick response, I’ve really been schooled😅👌🏼
How many agents do you have in South Africa 🇿🇦 that are selling your products? For us who are looking forward to getting our hands on a Rupes?
Hi! Boss. I have a question what you recommend pad for a new painted panels? thanks.
Micro fiber or wool
I'd like to ask what is a life span of the wool pads.
Didn’t people use to buff off the wax with polishing machines before there were microfiber towels. Is this not good and why?
Thanks for watching and thanks for posting your question. "Buffing off" wax or polish is something born out of the use of old bonnet style orbital (not dual action orbital, just orbital) machines. These are usually very inexpensive, low power, tools that do not have a backing plate, but a head that a bonnet (usually terry cloth or microfiber) would be stretched over. The movement of that tool mimics the movement of what your hand does wiping a residue away. Just orbits, no rotation. This doesn't really add any benefit to the result, it just takes the manual effort out of the process.
With the types of tools we manufacturer the process, even in the ultrafine range, is going to be abrasive. It is physically removing a microscopic amount of the surface to level and remove defects. Because of this we would not want to use the tool to remove any residues b/c it is going to continue to abrade the surface, and likely not in a beneficial or consistent way.
To that end, with the processes we're discussing here (paint correction) you would use the tool to perform the process, then remove the residues by hand with a microfiber towel. The amount of residue and difficulty or removal when used properly is so minimal that the aid of a machine would have very little benefit, even if it were a recommended process. It isn't like buffing off the heavy/sticky waxes of yesteryear. Hope that helps!
Hello, how do you tell if the paint is hard vs soft.. ? I suppose there would eventually be some sort of AI based app that produces a cutting compound/material recommendation based on what the manufacturer typically puts down as an OEM finish
Thanks for commenting. While it may not have artificial intelligence, we do have an app to help guide your choices for product combos - www.rupes.com/web-app/
The only way to know if a paint is hard or soft is to perform a test spot. We have several videos that cover this topic that will be linked below. Also, do not catalog paint hardness by brand of car. They change processes and paint suppliers frequently which means paint hardness car vary even in the same model year for the same color.
BigFoot 101: th-cam.com/play/PLkX3qMzwBy1EOnBML1roW5F_CDx3eblWy.html
Should you do a test spot: th-cam.com/video/0Z79_1h2SyA/w-d-xo.html
@@RUPES ah this is great information - Thanks so much for getting back to me/us so quickly - not many tool manufacturers interact with their audience the way you do!
great job!
Thank you.
Hi RUPES
Ive just bought the LH19E and the Nano Ibrid, and i have a LHR15 MKIII, i have microfiber, wool and foam pads, same with the rotary (blue and yellow) and regular polishing compounds (blue green yellow and white) i did a test section on my volkswagen golf mkiv with the rotary + blue foam pad and blue compound with almost zero progress, what setup and machine should i use for maximum cutting, also what kind of speeds on the different machines should i use? ive worked at a automotive paintshop and we've always used rotary, and he told me it has the biggest cut, is that true?
- i hope its not too many questions =)
Greetings from denmark =)
Thank you for commenting. It sounds like you may be using pads and compounds intended for orbital tools with your rotary. That combination will not generally be very effective.
For maximum cutting with rotary you would want our coarse, twisted wool, rotary pads (part code in the 9.BL___H series) and coarse rotary compound. If you are trying to maximize cut with the LHR15 then the choice would be the coarse microfiber disc and blue ( DA Coarse or Zephir Coarse) compounds.
There are many variable to consider as well that are probably too many to discuss in the comments of TH-cam. You can always contact us directly for more assistance www.rupes.com/contact-us
@@RUPES i have only used rotary tools pads and compounds for the LH9E and only DA (LHR) pads compound etc. For the DA😊
What should I do when the compound gets sticky?
If the compound gets sticky it is typically an indication of a couple things:
1) too much product is being used
2) the product is being over-cycled (worked for too long)
3) the pad is not being cleaned frequently enough
So for solutions:
1) Reduce the amount of compound you are using per application
2) Shorten your cycle time with the compound
3) Use compressed air to blow out residues from the pad after each application.
Has the green foam been removed from the line up? The explanation of the mf vs wool makes sense to me now after using some of the original yellow mf pads when the came out and would load up quickly. Great segment. Is there a video already showing or talking about the abilities of the wool on a rotary vs da to get a good cut and finish?
Thanks for the comment Mason. Yes - green is being phased out from the line as the new blue has been developed to cover and exceed the range covered by the previous green and blue pads combined.
As far as the comparison of wool on different tools. While a rotary wool pad and a DA wool pad are both made from wool, they are very different! The type of wool and how the pads are constructed are for very different purposes. It is possible to achieve a very high level of finish on DA wool, not so much on a rotary wool. Our newer generation of rotary wool pads have far more finishing ability than anything like them before, however they are still not going to be on the same level of DA pads for that purpose.
@@RUPES awesome thanks. I'll have to pick some up!
what do you think about spraying some water while using the compound step, I use both wool and foam pads?
We recommend it for certain applications. There is even a video on the topic from earlier in this series: th-cam.com/video/KpKCjpWD2hs/w-d-xo.html
@@RUPES you guys are the best
Thank you for this info!!
Is Rupes ever gonna change the design of the 1” and 2” foam, or at least make the yellow ones the same color as the larger pads?
If you mean change the material to match the new D-A Series full size foams, yes. That change is on the horizon.
@@RUPES yep, that’s what I mean. Thanks.
Which one is most suitable to reflectors/headlights? everybody seems to act like a paintjob is the only component on a car, smh.
I've an issue when i used yellow wool pad on random orbital, already have prime before and after that why the surface hard to buff ?
And leave many scrach..
I'm not sure I understand the nature of your question. If you'd like to discuss the specific situation in more detail please send us a message via our contact us page. This will allow us to receive pictures and get a better idea of what exactly the issue is that you are encountering. www.rupes.com/contact-us
How do I clean the woolpad properly.... ?
Thanks for watching. We actually did a detailed video on this topic in another episode of the series:
th-cam.com/video/SNdSdbtWdyk/w-d-xo.html
what is the exact name of the yellow foam? I found 2 yellow foams but different names
Not sure we understand what you mean with this comment. You can find references to our part numbers for the various pads on our website (linked in the video description)
Hi all
I have a 2019 VW Tiguan and metallic dark gray. It has very light swirls that you can only see in certain angles of sunlight. I have tried the yellow foam pad with Sonax Perfect finish (Sorry) but it hasn't done hardly a thing to remove them. Would the wool Yellow pad be the next choice to try?
Kind Regards, Ryan.
Could be, could also not be. It will take some testing to determine what the best combo for the particular paint is. Sometimes the adjustment is a pad, sometimes the liquid, sometimes both. If you haven't yet, check out this video on test spots from another episode in the series:
th-cam.com/video/0Z79_1h2SyA/w-d-xo.html
Hello
I would like to know how I can buy Rupes product in India.
You can use our distributor locator to find authorized resellers in your region:
distributor.rupes.com/
@@RUPES Thank you
Thank goodness theres a manufacturer out there who WANTS to remove the mystique over pads and products for everyone new to the game.
Unlike other manufacturer who seem to want your make it more difficult.....by encouraging the purchase of more products and more polishes
Thanks for watching and commenting. Ultimately our goal is to educate and make things easier - hopefully we're doing that for you.
@@RUPES certainly are... so refreshing that its not just about selling more and more
I'm loving the new DA range of pads....
Used yesterday a microfiber pad extreme cut on a fresh paint. Did nothing lol, literal was unable to remove 2000 3m sand paper did with 3000 on top and yet 0 result. I had to use blue foam..
It’s not getting complicated it’s the company that makes it complicated. It’s really simple if you simplified your way of working.
Thank you for your comment. This is precisely why we have reduced the number of compounds in our line, streamlined the pad offering, and provide educational content. To "uncomplicate" the process of paint correction. With the ever changing variable of paint, including OEM surfaces that are farther to the soft and hard end of the spectrum, thinner OEM applications, water-borne clear coats, and other factors the process of paint correction is not so complex, however the surface being corrected is constantly introducing new variables and complexities that the technician must learn to diagnose, interpret, and adjust for.
Muito bom! Parabéns!
Good video
Thanks
What pad removes dullness on a vehicle from a paint job.
Thanks for commenting. That is a question with a lot of potential answers because there are so many variables. Technically all pads can do what you're asking, but the level of defect, hardness of paint, tool movement, etc. all impact the potential result. If you'd like some more specific technical info please contact us directly www.rupes.com/contact-us
Okkay im now even more confused why people dont use wool pad on rotary, this days are all about random orbital.. Da ,......... soo when do you use rotary
Thanks for commenting. First thing to understand is that the dynamics of heat and the types of wool we're discussing in this video have very little direct correlation to rotary movement. The way heat manifests and the behavior on the paint are very different so you can't apply DA consumables and logic to rotary polishing or the other way around.
In the last 10 years polishing technology has evolved to make orbital, specifically large stroke random orbital and gear driven orbital, cover a wider range of applications. Rotary remains king when it comes to rate of material removal, but in the moderate to light correction space a rotary is largely unnecessary in most applications. Rotary is still the absolute best movement, with wool, on oxidized gel coat, on surfaces where rapid material removal is needed, primarily heavy cutting activities. In some cases many bodyshops users prefer to cut with rotary then finish with DA. The discussion is not really one vs. the other and more which one is right and when.
Thank you :)
Wool is more messy than the others
Is that a Supra?
Indeed 😉
i get it.. : ( Freemason hand signs through out the whole dam vid.......nothing hidden any more : )
Stay off the drugs
and FOAM BURNS YOUR PAINT..
how da FACK do we know how hard the paint is...WTF