This video made the choices and process easy to understand and to follow. Too many other videos make something simple into something harder than it has to be.
Straight to the point!!!! Thank you so much, this guy has a great and fluent way of teaching. It shows that he’s been doing this for years and if not, this guy is a total G
I've never polished a car before but I need to do something about my hazy black paint that has swirls everywhere. I'm about to buy a simple cheap DA, Uno Protect and a yellow wool pad. Can't make it worse... I hope
Once the pads are primed, only 2-4 drops is needed at that point when doing small sections the size of about 6x the pad. Our guess is that people go with the the middle option of 3 drops!
With a more lubricated product anything more than about four dots is just going to make a mess. The 3D line is a great example of a highly lubricated line. AAT502, ONE, ACA500 all only require a few drops to start, and one or two to reload.
The throw of a tool doesn't effect the results, it's typically the polish and pad combination used that affects the results the most. The throw of the tool can affect the level of cut and the size of the panels that can be tackled.
If youre doing a test spot and trying to find the least agressive method that will get the results you want, why not start with the least agressive option first and work your way up?
first thing is do you even need a compound. the days of compounds being required for correction are going away. it's amazing what people can achieve sometimes with a good polish and a few pads. always try that before changing pads and then if you must go to a compound or preferably use a single product polish that can correct severe sanding marks and finish the paint all by itself.
Bro im amaze on your video which you recommend for quicker remove scratches and swirl im using rotary but may campany is using polytop foam pads work is good but very costly need time to remove the scratches can you help me for pad which is quicker like one time polish i hope you answer my question and give me advice tnx you very much
@@dennisarcega837I used to use the Meguiar's W4000 wool when I used a rotary. Sometimes I'd used their maroon foam cutting pad. I wouldn't recommend microfiber on a rotary buffer. If you want to use microfiber on a random orbital tool, I prefer the Uro-Fiber to cut. But I've since switched to the Rupes yellow and blue wool pads. My most used paint correction liquids are 3D ONE and 3D ACA500. I also love Meguiar's M110, M205 (yeah that 205 can cut), Jescar Correcting Compound, and Jescar Medium. Nine out of ten times I'm using the 3D.
severe damage may require heavy artillery to tackle so in that case MF or wool. A well maintained car ( 1 in a 1000) or new may get away with foam. is basically what the video is on about test spot and some logical thinking based on the cars history and measurements.
If I understood what was in the video correctly pad choice would be based on what your test section produced. It would appear that a foam pad is the least aggressive at cutting and a micro fiber is the most aggressive with wool landing in the middle. So using the video as an example if the wool pad didn’t cut all the defects out the next step would have been to move to the yellow compound with the micro fiber pad. If that didn’t work next step would have been blue foam with blue compound.
@@Stevesadventures69 Correct, however the yellow wool it may be the same or a notch higher in the cut from the coarse foam pad. So instead of the foam you could use the yellow wool based on the test spot results agreement with client end result combined with critical thinking on your behalf to deliver it
@@Stevesadventures69Some companies have wool over microfiber for top end cut. The Buff and Shine Uro-Wool and Lake Country low lint wool to be specific.
Right now I'm usually using wool to cut. The reason is the ability to cut efficiently on painted plastics. I've run into situations where my heavy cut on heavy cut microfiber pads did almost nothing to remove defects. In this situation where my compound and heavy cut microfiber failed, the medium cut and wool got the job done in short order. It might be different for others, but that's been my experience. I'm mostly using foam for polishing and finishing. I'm going to give that really stiff blue rupes foam another go here soon. I had a hard time using the Rupes DA Coarse. Great cutter, too much dust.
Orange peel is usually wet sanded and then compounded and polished. But these days the new microfiber or wool pads cut really fast. I'd wetsand with something safe like 3,000 grit and a block on the large areas. In this video he said he used 3,000 grit sandpaper to scuff up the paint (for his demo). This setup he used took out the marks from the 3,000 grit.
![Should You Use Wool, Microfiber, or Foam? - Pros and Cons of Each - [RUPES Replies Episode 006]](/img/n.gif)
This video made the choices and process easy to understand and to follow. Too many other videos make something simple into something harder than it has to be.
I like this guy. Very good teacher. With so many options he really presents a solution in a logical way. Very helpful thank you.
Straight to the point!!!! Thank you so much, this guy has a great and fluent way of teaching. It shows that he’s been doing this for years and if not, this guy is a total G
That yellow wool pad is straight up 🔥
Best explanation iv ever seen....zero bias
Awesome tutorial!!
Can you go straight on sealing the paint is you get desired results from any pads?
I've never polished a car before but I need to do something about my hazy black paint that has swirls everywhere. I'm about to buy a simple cheap DA, Uno Protect and a yellow wool pad. Can't make it worse... I hope
Great video! Love it!
Nice video and nice Rolex Daytona Todd !
Thanks I need that. Great job
Great explanation! Thank you!
I'm pleased I have watched this thank you.
There are many videos on you tube where many people use 3 drops on a foam pad do you know why.
Once the pads are primed, only 2-4 drops is needed at that point when doing small sections the size of about 6x the pad. Our guess is that people go with the the middle option of 3 drops!
With a more lubricated product anything more than about four dots is just going to make a mess.
The 3D line is a great example of a highly lubricated line. AAT502, ONE, ACA500 all only require a few drops to start, and one or two to reload.
How does the throw of the polisher effect the results?
Great video
The throw of a tool doesn't effect the results, it's typically the polish and pad combination used that affects the results the most. The throw of the tool can affect the level of cut and the size of the panels that can be tackled.
If youre doing a test spot and trying to find the least agressive method that will get the results you want, why not start with the least agressive option first and work your way up?
I think the idea is to use as few steps and as little product as possible,
Because that uno stuff doesn’t do anything and they know it. It’s really just for preparing wax or if you have a show car to get the last bit of shine
first thing is do you even need a compound. the days of compounds being required for correction are going away. it's amazing what people can achieve sometimes with a good polish and a few pads. always try that before changing pads and then if you must go to a compound or preferably use a single product polish that can correct severe sanding marks and finish the paint all by itself.
When did you guys move from FL to Indiana. WTF, used to be right down the street from me.
Bro im amaze on your video which you recommend for quicker remove scratches and swirl im using rotary but may campany is using polytop foam pads work is good but very costly need time to remove the scratches can you help me for pad which is quicker like one time polish i hope you answer my question and give me advice tnx you very much
If using a rotary, use a wool cutting pad with a heavy cut compound then follow with the foam using a finishing polish.
@@danlc95 which brand is good bro how about the microfiber pad you try already?
@@dennisarcega837I used to use the Meguiar's W4000 wool when I used a rotary. Sometimes I'd used their maroon foam cutting pad.
I wouldn't recommend microfiber on a rotary buffer.
If you want to use microfiber on a random orbital tool, I prefer the Uro-Fiber to cut. But I've since switched to the Rupes yellow and blue wool pads.
My most used paint correction liquids are 3D ONE and 3D ACA500. I also love Meguiar's M110, M205 (yeah that 205 can cut), Jescar Correcting Compound, and Jescar Medium.
Nine out of ten times I'm using the 3D.
Pretty impressive. I have the yellow wool and it cuts well.
If I get 2 pads, 1 to use for 1 stages and the 2nd stage on a 2 stage. And one for cutting on the 2 stage. Which pads would you recommend?
For stage 2: Yellow wool, blue foam, Blue Wool in that order. I'd start of using fine compound then use course if needed
But if he would have taken another step with UNO PURE. Would the vehicle be even shinier?
When would you recommend using wool vs microfiber vs foam?
severe damage may require heavy artillery to tackle so in that case MF or wool. A well maintained car ( 1 in a 1000) or new may get away with foam. is basically what the video is on about test spot and some logical thinking based on the cars history and measurements.
If I understood what was in the video correctly pad choice would be based on what your test section produced. It would appear that a foam pad is the least aggressive at cutting and a micro fiber is the most aggressive with wool landing in the middle. So using the video as an example if the wool pad didn’t cut all the defects out the next step would have been to move to the yellow compound with the micro fiber pad. If that didn’t work next step would have been blue foam with blue compound.
@@Stevesadventures69 Correct, however the yellow wool it may be the same or a notch higher in the cut from the coarse foam pad. So instead of the foam you could use the yellow wool based on the test spot results agreement with client end result combined with critical thinking on your behalf to deliver it
@@Stevesadventures69Some companies have wool over microfiber for top end cut.
The Buff and Shine Uro-Wool and Lake Country low lint wool to be specific.
Right now I'm usually using wool to cut.
The reason is the ability to cut efficiently on painted plastics. I've run into situations where my heavy cut on heavy cut microfiber pads did almost nothing to remove defects. In this situation where my compound and heavy cut microfiber failed, the medium cut and wool got the job done in short order.
It might be different for others, but that's been my experience.
I'm mostly using foam for polishing and finishing. I'm going to give that really stiff blue rupes foam another go here soon.
I had a hard time using the Rupes DA Coarse. Great cutter, too much dust.
So microfibre is more agressive than wool? Are the pad colours an industry standard and if so what is the colour order from aggressive to mild ?
No colours are brand dependent sadly
Which is best for mild orange peel?
What vehicle? Orginal paint or respray?
@@JimmySSuccess respray
Orange peel is usually wet sanded and then compounded and polished. But these days the new microfiber or wool pads cut really fast. I'd wetsand with something safe like 3,000 grit and a block on the large areas. In this video he said he used 3,000 grit sandpaper to scuff up the paint (for his demo). This setup he used took out the marks from the 3,000 grit.
Does Rupes Wool work as well on a forced rotation polisher like the Flex 3401?
It works best with the RUPES tools, however people have used them on forced rotation tools and liked how they performed still
That one dude needs a beard, baaad!😂
You pushed the other guy out of the shot. Looked weird and wrong. Why did you even have him in the video to begin with?