I really appreciate your channel bc you are a real race car driver and you're teaching us "wannabe race car enthusiasts" how to get the best setup on a racing sim. Great channel!
Would you actually consider comparing one car, one track in iR, AMs2, rF2, AC, ACC just in terms of physics and FFB? This would probably the the most viewed YT video of all sim racing channels.
I think that would be a great topic. I know a lot of other content creators of done this, but coming from a real Driver, it could be really cool to identify the differences.
@@danielmorad indeed ! Must do it for sure ! There are plenty of them but are there real honest comparisions between sims from a real driver ? Didn’t came across…so I’ll watch for sure which sim does it better in terms of FFB, physics, wet weather driving, braking, sound,… not extreme in depth but general comparision for those points mentioned 🏁
I totally agree this is would be an awesome comparison, but I imagine that getting all the settings (in-game, FFB, car setups, etc) correct/maximized across all titles would be a lot of work. Many titles feel lacking with default settings/setups. That being said, if @Daniel Morad can take the time to do the comparison that would be so awesome!!! Would definitely get a ton of views!
@@FG_SIMRACING As a professional product? Nothing available to the public beats modded AC. I wouldn't even think of working in anything else, perhaps AMS1 if I absolutely had to, but it's quite inferior. All the other sims are a complete pass and I wouldn't even think about them. The problem for consumers is that good models don't really exist for this kind of car. So ACC might be the best bet in that regard, despite how wack it is in some parameters. EDIT: Well, extremely car dependent. All the cars are not going to be as decent. Probably none of them are particularly good but the Ferraris and R8 usually have decent data to them. I've heard mixed opinions about the others.
thanks for this ...i feel like too many real drivers are afraid or dont know how to translate real life to sim...plus you sound more honest and approachable.
Thanks, Daniel. Picking up a simucube today thanks to your responses in stream. Will definitely use these settings to start. Enjoy your time in France!
Great information coming from an experienced pro race car driver. Thanks for making this video. So much erroneous information I heard on other videos about needing 20 Nm of Afb to get the true feel of a GT3 car. You've helped set the record straight.
Thanks Daniel - this helps a lot always wondered what you real life GT3 drivers actually experience and what that equates to on a sim keep the awesome vids coming.
Hey Daniel, once again, this video is a gem and exactly what the community needs. I used your previous TD settings and felt that it was a bit raw, notchy and the steering wheel would vibrate to an uncontrollable feedback loop if not held. The new version feels much more refined while still keeping all the detail. The only thing I found that is still slightly more jolty is striking the kerbs. On tracks with high kerbs like Nordschleife it does feel quite rough to the point where you subconsciously start to avoid the kerbs. So I just turned up slew rate to 1.2 and it feels much gentler. Thanks again!
Thanks so much. One thing you can always be assured of for me is that I will speak my mind. It doesn’t matter how much money I could potentially make, my integrity is worth much more to me than any monetary value, no matter what anybody says, or would assume
@@danielmorad I really respect this !!! Keep it up. Gonna watch all your vids and follow in further because of this. We need 100% real info and not like marketing stuff. This is the most realistic, that is the most realistic which isn’t, regarding everything from brakes to sound to FFB,… being real is 100% the best ! Thanks again 👍🏁🏁🏁
@@danielmoradI don't have acc yet been playing Gt7 for now. Any idea what ffb should I use to familiarize myself when transitioning to ACC? I use t300 rs gt.
I once got a short trip here in Denmark with Tom Kristensen behind the wheel in a Audi DTM car. He said that the wheel is definitely not hard to turn, and its not heavy at all. After that I turned my FFB down and it overall feels better and I’m smoother in my racing.
After observing the drivers reactions to wheel movements and sensations in real life I use my SC2 Pro at around 12-13 Nm, it's good to have this confirmed by someone with RL experience. A useful and well presented video I look forward to your single seater settings.
Hi, thanks so much for your advice ! I only drive old heel and toe manual cars in Assetto Corsa and Automobalista 2, but using your logic, I was able to get my Simucube Pro to feel better than it ever has in both sims. So much more feel of connection to the road, which enables me to power out of corners earlier with full confidence of what grip levels I have available. I am also able to initiate deliberate drifts on tracks like Goodwood in the Shelby Cobra and confidently hold the drift right to the edge of the track every lap. Again, thanks for the help, much appreciated !
This video and the last one about ergonomics have been so helpful for me. I didn't realize how important those topics were until watching your videos, thank you so much Daniel! Keep up the great work!
Thank you for the information. It’s great to see the connection between the real world and the sim world. These worlds get closer thanks to channels like your and advancements in technology.
Thank you Daniel. I checked out your True Drive setup thank you so much it seems to be exactly what I've been missing I did have turn down the gain in acc to about 17 and no road texture just default everything else. I can actually feel the car and tires. This is possibly a game changer as far as experience as for being fast I'm still learning 8 months in and I'm still 3 - 8 seconds off of the leaders. But I am definitely getting better. THE STRUGGLE IS REAL!
Grateful for this Daniel. Been watching you on track and knowing your expertise and skill there translated into the sim is awesome. Thanks for the detail on this. I have a pretty slim setup, but these details go a long way for me on all 3 sims I use. Thanks!!
Thank you! Keep these videos coming! Hopefully, information like these videos can get the record straight and phase out a lot of the "sim racing" community misconceptions from youtubers who have never raced a real car before.
I must say, i used your profile on my simucube at all of the settings you had in and damn! I have even more respect for GT3/4 drivers. Ended up going down to 16nm of strength in trudrive. Keep up the amazing content and also congratulations to you and your team on P3 at Laguna!
Just ran your settings for Prototype on my simucube 2 ultimate - by far the best feel Ive had driving the LMP2 in iRacing, so smooth but great road feel, I can feel the limit a lot easier, especially with high track temperature! Thanks for your hard work here, hopefully I can help our team win the Spa 24hr this weekend with better consistency ! Keep up the brilliant videos!
Hey mate, I am also running an ultimate and drive mainly the lmp2 in iracing. I have done some tweaking to daniels profile, to get rid of a few aspects i didnt liked. Maybe you want to try them, and give me some feedback? Hard to find someone else on the ultimate running the lmp2 haha Adjustments i have made: Recon 3 (feels more direct when changing directions) Tbw: unlimited (less delay) Friction: 8 (feels better on the ulimate to me, and reveals more feedback mid corner) Max torque 21nm (to get rid off too hard cerb strikes and make corrections easier. Also to smooth out the lower recon filter and higher slewrate) Slewrate 3.25 (more details when over or understeering) Ingame 21nm : 65nm max force Static force reduction i left off most of the time, because it can feel backwards tue to the fact that its time based, not telemetry based. Already getting lower cornering forces with the settings like this. But going 10% on static force reduction with a static force reduction speed of 0.5 feels pretty good too. Easier to overdrive, but also easier to make little corrections, and the center doesnt feel as numb as usually.
@@Peter-bi7sx uploaded both versions, and will do some more testing on the one with static force reduction. Just search for PDRacing (creator) on the paddock, and let me know how you like them :)
Congrats on the Sonoma Win Bro I Feel what Stands Out the Most About your Content is the Professional Presentation and the Actual Real World Race Winning Experience. You can help us All with your Real Feedback do what we are all looking for with is to Simulate the Experience. Appreciate you for what your doing and your Talent!
This was a great video very insightful. I also had the pleasure of driving your racing simulator at CTMP during the 2023 Chevrolet Grand Prix and it was a blast. Your brake pedal setup was a little stiffer than I am used to but I had a great time testing your setup. 🤓
i just want to clarify that setting the wheelbase to 25Nm and iR max force to 50Nm does not just set your FFB to 12.5Nm. It just means it requires 50Nm of output from the sim to reach 25Nm on the wheel, so depending on the car you could very well be way above 12.5Nm depending on how much force the car puts out.
Basing the signal to something like audio, since they're both digital signals, wouldn't it be better to set the sim higher and turn the wheel down? Theoretically that would give you a better SNR, but since both signals remain digital, especially on a DD I'm not sure it matters. I'm also guessing that since he made iRacing scale down the force from 50 to 25 the sim is over torqueing by default
@@JZStudiosonlinedigital signals its more to do with bit depth than signal to noise ratio in terms of getting the most detail. Therefore, it doesn't make a different where you reduce the signal as it will result in the same bit losses. The ideal solution would be to have an analog torque attenuator on the motor itself. Then you'd maintain full dynamic range from the digital signal.
I absolutely love that you're doing all this work to help sim racers have a better experience - you're the man, Daniel. I wish you had a TS-PC Racer available to develop settings for us non-DD drivers lol
It's so funny that as long as I've been in sim racing, FFB wheels used to be scoffed at as supposedly making you slower than "spring" wheels. Within a year of the G25's release literally everyone had switched to FFB, and now we have real life drivers detailing how to set it properly for proper feel and best performance. How times have changed.
You are relatively correct with how iRacing calculates the max force by making it 50Nm. So 50Nm of force will feel like 25Nm, a 15Nm force will feel like 7.5Nm force. As in, the it takes that max force to feel what your wheel force is set to. The downside of putting it at 25Nm of wheel force is there is the possibility you could have a 25Nm force level show up in the wheel versus putting your the FFB at 15Nm of force in Simucube's software and wheel force at 15Nm in iRacing and adjusting the max force (strength) accordingly. Just a little information for ya. Keep it up!
Thank you Daniel, i used it in iRacing and it feels so much better (more like steering a real car). FunFact: i used it similiar with mit clubsport plus with GT7 and instantly was 2 seconds faster than before.
Most excellent! You just confirmed that It may be best for me to do a slight upgrade from 8nm to 12-15 which is great considering I was already looking to upgrade my Fanatec base to the SC2 base and your breakdown verifies that.
I got a VRS DFP. This video definitely inspired me to put time aside to setup car profiles and experiment with settings by using active reset! Thanks for the effort in making it
Thank you!!!!! I've done all the adjustments as you said and transformed completely my simucube pro. Very thankful, now I can feel everything like never before. Thank you very much for all your effort and dedication. All the best from Catalunya.
I want to say thank you for answering all the comments. I've gone through them all to find any additional bits of information and was surprised to see that you have answered most if not all of them, including an earlier one of mine. Well done sir! Im going to try and get on your discord channel and see if there is someone that can help me replicate these settings for my simagic wheel
Invaluable information! I've been playing around with my SimXperience settings and landed similar to what you've got. Decided to add some friction and a little bit more oscillation resistance/dampening. I don't have real life experience, but the feedback is so much more useful to interpret at the limit and I find myself being smoother overall in general. Thanks for this.
Great advice, thank you. I have the Accuforce direct drive wheel and do similar adjustments to make the wheel behave more realistic. Having a real life racer explain matching the sim feel to match the real feel is for me validation, that high powered wheels can over react and this sort of tuning is OK to do.
Thank you so much! I've been telling people all the time that 0% friction, inertia and dampning isnt realistic. Yes you "feel" a lot more but that's not how it feels driving a real car. Not that i'm a GT3 driver but it feels good to validate my experiences from driving real cars.
Fantastic content! I've always had difficulty balancing this, as I've never driven a real GT car, I look for tips and information from real drivers to try, even in a simulated way, to have sensations similar to reality as much as possible. Your video helped me a lot! Thanks!
I tuned my PXN v10 to how my car feels in real life. I barely use 40% total ffb. Not hard at all. I turned up the road feeling. A car on smooth roads or tracks dont affect wheel that much. Only bumps and holes. No one should be using ridiculous high ffb. Not realistic at all. This was a great video. Basically what everyone should watch before using their wheel.
Slew rate seems to directly impact how steep the slope of ffb signal can be. Makes sense to smooth it out a little bit because steering column materials are not 100% stiff.
The gift that keeps on giving. :) I just got into sim racing a ton in the last few weeks, I purchased a 5800X3D and RX 7900XT to get my PC up to speed. While I do have a Logitech G29, I'll be looking to upgrade that too! Firstly though... my seat needs some upgrades lol.
Don't underestimate mounting requirements. I'm only specced for an Alpha Mini and VNM pedals but I went for an 8020 rig and GT-style seat. Tube rigs with DD will flex a bit, and flimsy pedal plates will also flex. The real cost comes in all the other stuff you need to get; the seat might cost as much as the rig.
Excellent video Daniel. I have never understood why people crank the feedback up high. I've heard people say that it needs to be high to be more like driving the real car, but unless someone like you tells us how it should feel we don't know. Being a more mature gentleman I just want to feel what the car is doing rather than having an arms workout every race. I will probably be trying a few different settings next time I'm in the sim.
The only people that say that it needs to be cranked up really high are the ones that pretend to know too much. I know some coaches online say that you need for have max force feedback. It’s so wrong.
Just got my new Simagic Alpha U mounted on my rig and this is absolutely an amazing video that will help me setting it up. It is sometimes hard to understand what the feeling effects are with certain parameters. Amazing man, many thanks :)
another amazing video, only thing I would change is lower the volume a bit on the music, bit too high and fights with your voice. Made it hard to concentrate for me on such an info packed video.
This one was my mistake. We had an audio issue due to the way I set it up versus the engine noise. There were a lot of Band-Aids involved in the audio department
@@TleafarafaelT I personally don't find that the music is too loud either but I noticed the slight Audio issue when I was driving but thats all. That part was my mistake.
Great video Daniel. If you for the sake of it took the mid range base from each popular company and tuned the settings to your liking and made videos on each, it will really give you a lot of traction on your channel. I know what youre saying can be applied if someone understands what you're saying but I get a lot of people who even after explaining well still get confused with the different settings in each software and the base's own characterstics.
Thanks Daniel! For months I was trying to figure out, what the parameters really do. Never found a setting which made me feel understeer. This helped me so much! Thank you!
Great content. Detailed explanation on each setting is fantastic. I re-watched this video many times to compare and contrast to my setup(fanatec), and it's been very helpful. I'm relatively a newb in simracing world, and I found this guide to be very comprehensive. Thank you!
I'm a fellow Fanatec pleb, it'd be great to know what wheelbase you're using and what settings you're running. I am a bit of a noob myself and struggle to find if I understand some of these settings properly.
Thank you! This made me go back through my settings on the Fanatec DD1. Your video helped me view in game settings vs equipment settings in a different way. Allowing me to get more detail out of my wheel and smooth out some of those jolts that made no sense.
@@jasonzbell apologies, it seems I cant post comments using my phone (thought I did 2 days ago). Anyhow, after the latest updates my settings did not seem to work (surprise surprise). Needless to say I got tired of making sure drivers, Fanatec Control Panel and Fanalab all match, and redoing setting after setting. I'm installing a Simucube 2 Pro hopefully this weekend. In the Fanatec Forums, Maurice has some pretty solid profiles for use and adjust from there for personal preference. What I did do prior to 452 (now on 454) was set my FFB to 98% and adjust in game like Morad mentioned, but Fanatec is hit or miss with this depending on the car. Also note that you want to set your wheel rotation first. Because if you get all your settings where you want them say at 1080, but then you decide to change to 900, all those wonderful settings you have, they may no longer produce the same feel. If you wanna pick my brain about the Fanatec, feel free to find me on Morad's discord and send me a DM (idunno_guess). Sorry my reply isn't very helpful.
Thanks for the video daniel 🙏 matches pretty well with how i have mine set. When demonstrating slewrate you were saying that 5.something felt really numb, but 0.99 should feel much more numb, because the lower the number, the slower the motors reactions. So maybe you should do a bit more testing on that one filter? I will definitely try the force reduction, havent really played with it because i thought its gimmicky haha.
@@danielmorad thats great daniel 👍 There is one thing i noticed using your settings about the static force reduction. because its a time based effect it can make you basically feel something that the telemetry isnt giving out. Its not able to change the cornering forces overall, it just takes the % you put in and decreases the force by that in corners within a second. So if you go one second in one direction the cornering force will get 30% less, but the big jolts, fast direction changes and hard oversteer effects will stay the same. So sometimes it makes you feel understeer without it even happening. So i am wondering if you could make a profile that feels just as realistic, but without using static force reduction. Instead tweak the max force, or reduce the max nm of the sc2 to match the cornering forces, and then adjust the weight and activity with slewrate, recon, tbw, and the damping sliders. Running a tad less damping and especially inertia will also reduce the load you feel while cornering. I have settled at 21-19nm on the wheel and 65nm max force ingame for the lmp2, without static force reduction now.
Or is that just how power steering feels in general on such a car? I have no idea, but it makes the forces feel a bit backwards sometimes because the telemetry is building up resistance, while the static force reduction takes it away at the same time.
Nice video. It's nice to get feedback from someone with actual experience driving the Merc GT3. But to be honest I kinda liked your original "Moradness" profile on True Drive. I think what it made it slightly better was that the "Simcube Reconstruction Filter" was at 3 and the "Torque Bandwidth Limit" (TBW) was unlimited. The lower the Recon filter the lower the latency and the higher the TBW the lower the latency. Also I wonder how much one has to compensate FFB strength for smaller and lighter wheels like the "Asher F28" I'm using. Because right now the GT3 profile seems like it requires a lot of strength considering the GT3 Merc is supposed to be power assisted. Other than that I look forward to more profiles on True Drive to at least get a closer approximation of what the real race car feels like. Thanks.
This is exactly what I was looking for ! A real divers feedback (no pun intended ) on FFB on the SC2 pro !! Thanks again! Keep up the good work on the videos.
Thanks for sharing. This was invaluable to me setting up my SimuCube 2 Pro. A lot of profiles have overdone effects, but your profile works really well in Assetto Corsa with some small tweaks via Content Manager.
Hi Daniel! Great video! One question: maybe you can share with us how much different a GT3 car feels compared to a road car. Most people know how a street car feels and would like to know how much more force is needed to turn a GT3 race car. By that it might be easier for us non race drivers to dial in the wheel. Same goes for brake settings. How ever these information and comparisons between sim and real race car is what everyone is looking for. Thanks for sharing!!!!
Typical roadcar steering torques after PS are around 4-5Nm or so mid-corner. So you would be looking at roughly twice the effort for a ballpark. Although roadcar PS is heavily filtered and won't allow peaks through, racecar will to some point.
Great video and thanks so much for posting your True Force settings. I have an SC2 pro as well and set it up over a year ago and have been very happy with it. I run primarily iRacing. I’ll compare my settings to yours but at this point I am very comfortable with what I have so likely will be too scared to change anything now due to muscle memory developed over the past year that I have had it.
Running a Simucube while having Fanatec sponsors on your car, hehe ;) On a serious note, thanks for your vid and breakdown of your settings, very helpful in fine turning my own settings.
Thanks man, def subbed. I think the only people qualified to tell me how my sim rig (which I just got) should feel is an actual driver haha funny bc I hopping into ACC for the first time yesterday and chose the MB GT3 that you run. Thanks for the tips and insight!
For the first time a good and clear tutorial, to explain how to setup our Simucube 2! You're the Boss, now waiting how to setup Simucube2 for open wheel cars like Formula 1, Indycar, and light car IR04 and FF1600. My congratulation.👍
It slows down the information transfer based on the information. I’m just going based off of what I felt in my hands. Do you have anything that you can elaborate on that can help me and everyone else?
@@danielmorad My guess why it may have felt numb going from off to 5Nm/s probably has to do with two things.. One a little Placebo as going from full active (off) to any slew limitation is quite a difference in feel.. But it also probably has to do somewhat with settings balance.. While each setting does a fairly specific thing they do cross over in nature. it is possible that the combination of game signal, and the other filters made the wheel feel a bit more flatlined than it normally might.. Generally speaking the lower the Nm/s you go the less abrupt the wheel will feel as of course the closer you get to off on slew the quicker the wheel will accelerate when in a limiting situation. Note the SLEW Filter is ONLY active when the torque acceleration rate is HIGHER than the slew.. This means that it isn't always active but only is in effect when dictated by the signal.
@@danielmorad I also guess it's a nocebo-effect😀 I had a discussion about the new Asetek-base about those numbers because Boosted Media claims, he can feel that the Asetek is faster because of 9 instead of 6 Nm/ms slewrate, which is IMO total BS. If it takes 1,5 or 2 ms to get a 12 Nm jolt is indistinguishable and you don't want such jolts anyway. Humans can't feel 1 ms difference and iRacing allegedly only provides 60 Hz FFB update rates, that's one update every 16,7 ms. With your settings a 12 Nm jolt would take 12 ms and it might be trick to prevent the wheelbase to rip the wheel out of your hands in some circumstances, but seems a bit low and I wouldn't go below 3 just based on logic and the fact that the FFB in iRacing is already slow af.
Thanks for the video! Amazing settings & profile. I was using another one from a present YT, but your settings are such more precise and makes me way more confident for the car. With that, Im really faster with your profile💪
I’m glad you touched on this subject, anyone who thinks you need a 20nm wheel base has never tried driving at 20nm, it is a ridiculous amount of force . Thanks for the information
The thing is headroom.. a 20Nm or 25Nm base allows you to run at the cars average force while being able to retain and feel the information that comes through at a higher strength level.. Generally speaking with iRacing over the years most people will fall into the strength ratio or Specific Output of .35 - .45:1, Daniel is at .5:1, Personally I run at .6:1.. this means that while you have 20 or 25Nm on tap for the wheel to give you you are running at an actual at the wheel strength of a % of the Game telemetry.. So when the Game puts out a signal of say 30Nm Daniels wheel will put out 15Nm so the majority of the time with the iRacing Mercedes GT3 he would actually be getting around 10 - 14Nm based on all the telemetry I have seen. but when he hits a curb and it outputs a spike of 50Nm the wheel will have the room to increase the output to 25Nm .. With a lower strength wheel say a 12Nm wheel if you ran settings with strength as Daniel is running in iRacing you would actually CLIP about half of the nominally run signal which means you would be losing fidelity and the car would feel weird.. This is why you might actually NEED 20Nm+ capability from your wheel.. It is not that you use it all the time but it is there when needed.
You only reach 20nm at max force spikes like the biggest curb strike or biggest high speed dip while turning. Or God forbid biggest crash force. But you need tweek the .ini files to eliminate the runaway wheel forces in big crashes. You set wheel force to 20nm (Second line in iracing SIM settings) and adjust max force in nm, not strength in % (click on strength so it changes to max force, First line) to suit your preference for the particular car your in (usually around 30-40nm). You
@@brionsohn2705Exactly.... What I meant but you have much more technical vocabulary... IT'S more complex than just cranking up your overall strength.... It's all about The Maximum Forces You "MAY" receive, and not "clipping" and missing those feelings "Fidelity" is the Key👍🏼
@@wesleyedwards1051 Yea iRacing is different in the way it handles forces than other "games". the Funny thing is they inadvertently set it up this way but it is actually perfect for DD wheels and high strength. They effectively use an Attenuation model of setting strength which is akin to High End Audio.. this is where everything comes into the system at 100% and then is actually Attenuated from there.. It allows basically ANY strength wheel to be able to output the same strength up to a point and then gets hard clipped by the software. using this method actually keeps iRacing from overtaxing the hardware but it also allows for little distortion in the application of the signal.
I've ran into clipping on my SC2 Pro a few times, so... it's a bit of a workout, especially if the car has very active ffb with lots of spikes. It can be perfectly driveable though, depending on car. Indycar drivers have to put up with torque figures well above 40Nm. Superformula with power steering is in the 30Nm range. Heck, driving a kart is somewhere in the 30-40Nm range. Problem with pretty much all sims, to varying degrees, is that steering sensitivity is lower and torque delta is higher than in the real world. Meaning, the cars don't react quite as well to steering input while the torque ramps up far too quickly. This gives a skewed perception of the torque figures as you have to work a lot harder. That's why you have real drivers like Daniel who, based on feel, come up with these lower torque figures. Daniel even artificially reduces the torque delta with his settings. The real car probably has significantly higher torque figures, but with better steering sensitivity and more forgiving torque delta.
Good video dude I appreciate the detailed explanations of each setting…being a mechanical engineer, It helps me to understand why/how things work they where they work.
Awesome video! Really great help for setting up my simucube 2 pro. I'm going to try your suggestions, even though I'm in AMS2 more often than iracing nowadays. Thanks, Daniel.
This video was an eye opener. I race open wheelers most times and dabble in gt3 and Porsche cup for fun here and there. I wish Moza had this much adjustability haha simucube ftw
Great video my friend! yeah.. gotta say this is a key element to get it similar to whatever car you are driving in a sim. Thanks for posting.. I showing this to my buddies..
Great video! Semi related topic, pedals: IRL when on the track I suck at heel/toe. Should my next sim pedals be inverted so their layout is closer to that of my track car or are the sim implementations of heel/toe too different from reality to be useful?
[ i used you setting on my VRS wheel base at BELLE ISLE.after i got used to the new settings, sooooooo much more control then i did with no filter on. i feel the cars rotation so much better now that the wheel is not trying to jump out of my hands all the time. now i can focus on the track and the car. and not the what the wheel is doing. ] FOR THE THANK-YOU!
awesome video thank you! debunking a lot of myths, that's great. the dbox actuators seem quite impressive as of immersion, kind as a FFB for the whole body. :)
@@danielmorad thank you for your feedback. In the future it may be really interesting to have your views on VR, I’d guess triple monitors are more enjoyable to you, but maybe VR enables a better sense of speed and ground elevation perception.
Thanks for the great information. I use the same Simucube 2 wheel base and the D-Box Gen 5 as well. I am heading over to rig right after I post these comments to give it a go. I have learned that less is more on the motion of my rig. Watching how you are moving in your seat looks to me just a bit more movement than how I see myself move in my videos of myself. Your input would be very valuable to help myself and other sim racers to get the proper amount of tactile feedback. I look forward to your future videos and experienced voice.
I actually have a short video ready to post about my D box settings. Less is definitely more. If you need more information, you can join my discord and we can chat there.
Wow I was surprised that my settings are very similar for all of the same reasons you gave. Using some damping, lower slew rate, and a little sf reduction etc. Great vid thanks!
Great video. Its all good and well to dial down ffb settings like real life but when your rig is stationary with no motion and rumble kits, ffb is all you have to go off
I do like the comparison between real experience to sim racing. I still use a Logitech G27 and a Logitech Driving Force Pro that I have modded the power supply to increase the FFB on Playstation platform. With the increased power I scale the FFB to 50 percent as well and have quick lap times. I use an Accuforce wheel base for PC and also use lower FFB for better control. At first I was faster on the G27 than on the Accuforce but with practice I am faster on the DD wheel. Enjoy the content, keep them coming Yo.
In terms of TH-cam chapters, always start with a timestamp of 00:00 and a label. This will automatically insert chapter markers into the player. Hope this helps.
I hope you can come back and answer a few questions that people are asking. You are not using high torque correct? This looks significantly easier than running this profile at high torque. Also, you said you are turning FFB down on iracing. How much are you turning FFB down? You mentioned in your video you think it's more like 12nm. Thanks
You had a profile some while ago called super sensitive, i tried it but it just felt wrong to me.. However you’r GT3 profile is so nice to drive. Thank you for sharing your knowledge to us!! 😎😎😎
hi Dan, I just discovered your channel on youtube and have been binging a bit. I appreciate your conversational style, humor, humility, and informed recommendations. All good. I'm 66 and just taking up sim racing about 2 years now. Enjoying and learning from your content and eager for more! For me, the one thing I have come to rely on when racing, is the Track IR 5. I have a 34 inch, ultra wide single screen, and until I can budget for triples, (would love to hear your recommedations for those) Track IR is working great for me. Any thoughts or experience with that? Thanks for sharing!
I remember when I used to have the G29 on Gran Turismo 5 and people who tried it (usually folks who just drive road cars to work or leisure non racers) thought it felt like in real life driving a normal car. But man I bet that expensive 25nm wheel base is next level. For the time being, I am on the 8nm Fanatec. But that is one insane rig. And I guess there are always the even greater gear out there. Albeit even more expensive.
Here I am trying to adapt this info to improve the ffb for my Fanatec DD Pro in GT7. I know the physics aren’t the best, but the VR is so good I can’t stop.
I was hoping for a video like this, I’d love to hear your thoughts on what sim replicates the AMG GT3 the best. Have you ever driven AC or ACC? If so what are your thoughts on them?
Even though a lot of people would assume ACC is the best GT3 sim, it really does not drive well. It’s merely down to the fact that the braking technique is so far away from what is actual reality. It actually is harmful for me to drive a cc as it will destroy my real life braking technique.
@@danielmorad wow, I wasn’t expecting to hear that. That’s very interesting, maybe in a future video you can touch more on that, I’m eager to hear more haha.
I really appreciate your channel bc you are a real race car driver and you're teaching us "wannabe race car enthusiasts" how to get the best setup on a racing sim. Great channel!
Would you actually consider comparing one car, one track in iR, AMs2, rF2, AC, ACC just in terms of physics and FFB? This would probably the the most viewed YT video of all sim racing channels.
I think that would be a great topic. I know a lot of other content creators of done this, but coming from a real Driver, it could be really cool to identify the differences.
@@danielmorad indeed ! Must do it for sure ! There are plenty of them but are there real honest comparisions between sims from a real driver ? Didn’t came across…so I’ll watch for sure which sim does it better in terms of FFB, physics, wet weather driving, braking, sound,… not extreme in depth but general comparision for those points mentioned 🏁
I totally agree this is would be an awesome comparison, but I imagine that getting all the settings (in-game, FFB, car setups, etc) correct/maximized across all titles would be a lot of work. Many titles feel lacking with default settings/setups. That being said, if @Daniel Morad can take the time to do the comparison that would be so awesome!!! Would definitely get a ton of views!
@@FG_SIMRACING As a professional product? Nothing available to the public beats modded AC. I wouldn't even think of working in anything else, perhaps AMS1 if I absolutely had to, but it's quite inferior. All the other sims are a complete pass and I wouldn't even think about them.
The problem for consumers is that good models don't really exist for this kind of car. So ACC might be the best bet in that regard, despite how wack it is in some parameters. EDIT: Well, extremely car dependent. All the cars are not going to be as decent. Probably none of them are particularly good but the Ferraris and R8 usually have decent data to them. I've heard mixed opinions about the others.
Especially ACC would be cool
Amazing content, exactly what this community was missing. Keep on the awesome work! Can’t wait for more stuff from you. Greetings from Toronto!
Thanks a ton!
thanks for this ...i feel like too many real drivers are afraid or dont know how to translate real life to sim...plus you sound more honest and approachable.
Thanks a lot :)
Thanks, Daniel. Picking up a simucube today thanks to your responses in stream. Will definitely use these settings to start. Enjoy your time in France!
Awesome to hear! You’re going to love it. You’ll have to let me know how much you love it next time I stream :)
Great information coming from an experienced pro race car driver.
Thanks for making this video. So much erroneous information I heard on other videos about needing 20 Nm of Afb to get the true feel of a GT3 car.
You've helped set the record straight.
Oh thanks a lot. Glad this video helps.
Great to hear feedback from someone who has the experience to compare real with the sim thanks
Thanks Daniel - this helps a lot always wondered what you real life GT3 drivers actually experience and what that equates to on a sim keep the awesome vids coming.
My pleasure. I enjoy sharing my experience with everybody.
Hey Daniel, once again, this video is a gem and exactly what the community needs. I used your previous TD settings and felt that it was a bit raw, notchy and the steering wheel would vibrate to an uncontrollable feedback loop if not held. The new version feels much more refined while still keeping all the detail. The only thing I found that is still slightly more jolty is striking the kerbs. On tracks with high kerbs like Nordschleife it does feel quite rough to the point where you subconsciously start to avoid the kerbs. So I just turned up slew rate to 1.2 and it feels much gentler. Thanks again!
I will try the same. Thanks for your feedback
Loving the content. Keep it coming. I like your unbiased content. Glad to see an actual racer giving advice.
Thanks so much. One thing you can always be assured of for me is that I will speak my mind. It doesn’t matter how much money I could potentially make, my integrity is worth much more to me than any monetary value, no matter what anybody says, or would assume
@@danielmorad I really respect this !!! Keep it up. Gonna watch all your vids and follow in further because of this. We need 100% real info and not like marketing stuff.
This is the most realistic, that is the most realistic which isn’t, regarding everything from brakes to sound to FFB,… being real is 100% the best !
Thanks again 👍🏁🏁🏁
@@danielmoradI don't have acc yet been playing Gt7 for now. Any idea what ffb should I use to familiarize myself when transitioning to ACC? I use t300 rs gt.
I once got a short trip here in Denmark with Tom Kristensen behind the wheel in a Audi DTM car. He said that the wheel is definitely not hard to turn, and its not heavy at all. After that I turned my FFB down and it overall feels better and I’m smoother in my racing.
After observing the drivers reactions to wheel movements and sensations in real life I use my SC2 Pro at around 12-13 Nm, it's good to have this confirmed by someone with RL experience. A useful and well presented video I look forward to your single seater settings.
Thanks so much for the nice feedback
Hi, thanks so much for your advice ! I only drive old heel and toe manual cars in Assetto Corsa and Automobalista 2, but using your logic, I was able to get my Simucube Pro to feel better than it ever has in both sims. So much more feel of connection to the road, which enables me to power out of corners earlier with full confidence of what grip levels I have available. I am also able to initiate deliberate drifts on tracks like Goodwood in the Shelby Cobra and confidently hold the drift right to the edge of the track every lap. Again, thanks for the help, much appreciated !
My pleasure
This video and the last one about ergonomics have been so helpful for me. I didn't realize how important those topics were until watching your videos, thank you so much Daniel! Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much. I’ve been getting some really good feedback on these videos. People have been dropping lap time like crazy.
You're killing it with content bro!
Thank you so much
Thank you for the information. It’s great to see the connection between the real world and the sim world. These worlds get closer thanks to channels like your and advancements in technology.
Thank you Daniel. I checked out your True Drive setup thank you so much it seems to be exactly what I've been missing I did have turn down the gain in acc to about 17 and no road texture just default everything else. I can actually feel the car and tires. This is possibly a game changer as far as experience as for being fast I'm still learning 8 months in and I'm still 3 - 8 seconds off of the leaders. But I am definitely getting better.
THE STRUGGLE IS REAL!
Next thing is some coaching :)
Coaching would be good my time is limited 2 hrs in the evening like 8-10 pm due to work and sundays
And he’s a pro telling you this most would argue with the man this is great stuff 🤙🏾
Grateful for this Daniel. Been watching you on track and knowing your expertise and skill there translated into the sim is awesome. Thanks for the detail on this. I have a pretty slim setup, but these details go a long way for me on all 3 sims I use. Thanks!!
My pleasure!
Thank you! Keep these videos coming! Hopefully, information like these videos can get the record straight and phase out a lot of the "sim racing" community misconceptions from youtubers who have never raced a real car before.
Thanks a lot. Always keep in mind that it is my perspective but I do have the background to back it all up.
I must say, i used your profile on my simucube at all of the settings you had in and damn! I have even more respect for GT3/4 drivers. Ended up going down to 16nm of strength in trudrive. Keep up the amazing content and also congratulations to you and your team on P3 at Laguna!
Thanks so much!! :) hope to see you out at a race
@@danielmorad ill be at the IMSA race at Road America in August
Just ran your settings for Prototype on my simucube 2 ultimate - by far the best feel Ive had driving the LMP2 in iRacing, so smooth but great road feel, I can feel the limit a lot easier, especially with high track temperature!
Thanks for your hard work here, hopefully I can help our team win the Spa 24hr this weekend with better consistency !
Keep up the brilliant videos!
Hey mate,
I am also running an ultimate and drive mainly the lmp2 in iracing. I have done some tweaking to daniels profile, to get rid of a few aspects i didnt liked. Maybe you want to try them, and give me some feedback? Hard to find someone else on the ultimate running the lmp2 haha
Adjustments i have made:
Recon 3 (feels more direct when changing directions)
Tbw: unlimited (less delay)
Friction: 8 (feels better on the ulimate to me, and reveals more feedback mid corner)
Max torque 21nm (to get rid off too hard cerb strikes and make corrections easier. Also to smooth out the lower recon filter and higher slewrate)
Slewrate 3.25 (more details when over or understeering)
Ingame 21nm : 65nm max force
Static force reduction i left off most of the time, because it can feel backwards tue to the fact that its time based, not telemetry based. Already getting lower cornering forces with the settings like this. But going 10% on static force reduction with a static force reduction speed of 0.5 feels pretty good too. Easier to overdrive, but also easier to make little corrections, and the center doesnt feel as numb as usually.
@@patrickdurka6188 awesome - i will give it a run ! How do i find it - under your name here ?
@@Peter-bi7sx havent uploaded it yet, but i will do that today, and let you know how to find it! :)
@@Peter-bi7sx uploaded both versions, and will do some more testing on the one with static force reduction.
Just search for PDRacing (creator) on the paddock, and let me know how you like them :)
Congrats on the Sonoma Win Bro
I Feel what Stands Out the Most About your Content is the Professional Presentation and the Actual Real World Race Winning Experience. You can help us All with your Real Feedback do what we are all looking for with is to Simulate the Experience.
Appreciate you for what your doing and your Talent!
Thanks so much for the nice feedback man and for the congratulations
This was a great video very insightful. I also had the pleasure of driving your racing simulator at CTMP during the 2023 Chevrolet Grand Prix and it was a blast. Your brake pedal setup was a little stiffer than I am used to but I had a great time testing your setup. 🤓
i just want to clarify that setting the wheelbase to 25Nm and iR max force to 50Nm does not just set your FFB to 12.5Nm. It just means it requires 50Nm of output from the sim to reach 25Nm on the wheel, so depending on the car you could very well be way above 12.5Nm depending on how much force the car puts out.
Exactly. I have listed what I have set for every car in my Simucube profile.
Basing the signal to something like audio, since they're both digital signals, wouldn't it be better to set the sim higher and turn the wheel down? Theoretically that would give you a better SNR, but since both signals remain digital, especially on a DD I'm not sure it matters.
I'm also guessing that since he made iRacing scale down the force from 50 to 25 the sim is over torqueing by default
@@JZStudiosonlinedigital signals its more to do with bit depth than signal to noise ratio in terms of getting the most detail. Therefore, it doesn't make a different where you reduce the signal as it will result in the same bit losses. The ideal solution would be to have an analog torque attenuator on the motor itself. Then you'd maintain full dynamic range from the digital signal.
I absolutely love that you're doing all this work to help sim racers have a better experience - you're the man, Daniel. I wish you had a TS-PC Racer available to develop settings for us non-DD drivers lol
It's so funny that as long as I've been in sim racing, FFB wheels used to be scoffed at as supposedly making you slower than "spring" wheels. Within a year of the G25's release literally everyone had switched to FFB, and now we have real life drivers detailing how to set it properly for proper feel and best performance. How times have changed.
Thanks so much. There’s only so much time to do stuff. Haha
You are relatively correct with how iRacing calculates the max force by making it 50Nm. So 50Nm of force will feel like 25Nm, a 15Nm force will feel like 7.5Nm force. As in, the it takes that max force to feel what your wheel force is set to. The downside of putting it at 25Nm of wheel force is there is the possibility you could have a 25Nm force level show up in the wheel versus putting your the FFB at 15Nm of force in Simucube's software and wheel force at 15Nm in iRacing and adjusting the max force (strength) accordingly. Just a little information for ya. Keep it up!
Thanks for clarifying that. I know I’m not a mathematician, but it felt pretty much right to me.
Thank you Daniel, i used it in iRacing and it feels so much better (more like steering a real car). FunFact: i used it similiar with mit clubsport plus with GT7 and instantly was 2 seconds faster than before.
Most excellent!
You just confirmed that It may be best for me to do a slight upgrade from 8nm to 12-15 which is great considering I was already looking to upgrade my Fanatec base to the SC2 base and your breakdown verifies that.
For sure. Plus going from Fanatec to Simucube, you will have wayyyyyy more detail. Use the code for 5% off in the description. morad5
I got a VRS DFP. This video definitely inspired me to put time aside to setup car profiles and experiment with settings by using active reset! Thanks for the effort in making it
That is awesome!
Thank you!!!!! I've done all the adjustments as you said and transformed completely my simucube pro. Very thankful, now I can feel everything like never before.
Thank you very much for all your effort and dedication. All the best from Catalunya.
Glad it helped!
I want to say thank you for answering all the comments. I've gone through them all to find any additional bits of information and was surprised to see that you have answered most if not all of them, including an earlier one of mine. Well done sir!
Im going to try and get on your discord channel and see if there is someone that can help me replicate these settings for my simagic wheel
Thanks man. I don’t have all the hardware but I’ll try to do more in the future
This is the video i was waiting for since i started simracing. Thanks dude!
My pleasure buddy
Invaluable information! I've been playing around with my SimXperience settings and landed similar to what you've got. Decided to add some friction and a little bit more oscillation resistance/dampening. I don't have real life experience, but the feedback is so much more useful to interpret at the limit and I find myself being smoother overall in general. Thanks for this.
Glad it was helpful!
Great advice, thank you. I have the Accuforce direct drive wheel and do similar adjustments to make the wheel behave more realistic.
Having a real life racer explain matching the sim feel to match the real feel is for me validation, that high powered wheels can over react and this sort of tuning is OK to do.
Glad it helped
Thank you so much!
I've been telling people all the time that 0% friction, inertia and dampning isnt realistic. Yes you "feel" a lot more but that's not how it feels driving a real car.
Not that i'm a GT3 driver but it feels good to validate my experiences from driving real cars.
You're very welcome!
Fantastic content! I've always had difficulty balancing this, as I've never driven a real GT car, I look for tips and information from real drivers to try, even in a simulated way, to have sensations similar to reality as much as possible. Your video helped me a lot! Thanks!
I tuned my PXN v10 to how my car feels in real life. I barely use 40% total ffb. Not hard at all. I turned up the road feeling. A car on smooth roads or tracks dont affect wheel that much. Only bumps and holes. No one should be using ridiculous high ffb. Not realistic at all. This was a great video. Basically what everyone should watch before using their wheel.
Slew rate seems to directly impact how steep the slope of ffb signal can be. Makes sense to smooth it out a little bit because steering column materials are not 100% stiff.
You’re so right
Keep em’ coming Daniel! All your videos have been awesome and very informative to help myself improve my sim driving and settings.
Great to hear!
The gift that keeps on giving. :) I just got into sim racing a ton in the last few weeks, I purchased a 5800X3D and RX 7900XT to get my PC up to speed. While I do have a Logitech G29, I'll be looking to upgrade that too! Firstly though... my seat needs some upgrades lol.
You definitely have the PC situation sorted. As long as you like Sim racing, you can invest in some nice gear and enjoy it all.
Don't underestimate mounting requirements. I'm only specced for an Alpha Mini and VNM pedals but I went for an 8020 rig and GT-style seat. Tube rigs with DD will flex a bit, and flimsy pedal plates will also flex. The real cost comes in all the other stuff you need to get; the seat might cost as much as the rig.
Excellent video Daniel.
I have never understood why people crank the feedback up high.
I've heard people say that it needs to be high to be more like driving the real car, but unless someone like you tells us how it should feel we don't know.
Being a more mature gentleman I just want to feel what the car is doing rather than having an arms workout every race.
I will probably be trying a few different settings next time I'm in the sim.
The only people that say that it needs to be cranked up really high are the ones that pretend to know too much. I know some coaches online say that you need for have max force feedback. It’s so wrong.
Just got my new Simagic Alpha U mounted on my rig and this is absolutely an amazing video that will help me setting it up.
It is sometimes hard to understand what the feeling effects are with certain parameters. Amazing man, many thanks :)
Congrats on the new setup, mine will be delivered soon, can’t wait for it, what rig did u install it on ?
another amazing video, only thing I would change is lower the volume a bit on the music, bit too high and fights with your voice. Made it hard to concentrate for me on such an info packed video.
This one was my mistake. We had an audio issue due to the way I set it up versus the engine noise. There were a lot of Band-Aids involved in the audio department
@Daniel Morad Music and audio was fine for me.
@@robcampbell6099 me too, both on my phone and TV
its okay for me, i really dont get it this comment and the people who upvoted
@@TleafarafaelT I personally don't find that the music is too loud either but I noticed the slight Audio issue when I was driving but thats all. That part was my mistake.
Great video Daniel. If you for the sake of it took the mid range base from each popular company and tuned the settings to your liking and made videos on each, it will really give you a lot of traction on your channel. I know what youre saying can be applied if someone understands what you're saying but I get a lot of people who even after explaining well still get confused with the different settings in each software and the base's own characterstics.
I was waiting for years this video to happen .. thank you so much an keep doing setups for more cars ❤
More to come!
Great to hear from an experienced driver, thanks for sharing.
Our pleasure!
Thanks Daniel! For months I was trying to figure out, what the parameters really do. Never found a setting which made me feel understeer. This helped me so much! Thank you!
Glad to help!
Great content. Detailed explanation on each setting is fantastic. I re-watched this video many times to compare and contrast to my setup(fanatec), and it's been very helpful. I'm relatively a newb in simracing world, and I found this guide to be very comprehensive. Thank you!
I'm a fellow Fanatec pleb, it'd be great to know what wheelbase you're using and what settings you're running. I am a bit of a noob myself and struggle to find if I understand some of these settings properly.
@@mcole3591 any update on what you found?
Thank you! This made me go back through my settings on the Fanatec DD1. Your video helped me view in game settings vs equipment settings in a different way. Allowing me to get more detail out of my wheel and smooth out some of those jolts that made no sense.
What are your dd1 settings based off this, because the settings are different on each and I want the settings for my dd1
Glad this helped out
Would you mind sharing your DD1 settings? I have a DD2, but I’m very curious what changes worked for you. Cheers & happy racing!
@@jasonzbell apologies, it seems I cant post comments using my phone (thought I did 2 days ago). Anyhow, after the latest updates my settings did not seem to work (surprise surprise). Needless to say I got tired of making sure drivers, Fanatec Control Panel and Fanalab all match, and redoing setting after setting. I'm installing a Simucube 2 Pro hopefully this weekend.
In the Fanatec Forums, Maurice has some pretty solid profiles for use and adjust from there for personal preference. What I did do prior to 452 (now on 454) was set my FFB to 98% and adjust in game like Morad mentioned, but Fanatec is hit or miss with this depending on the car. Also note that you want to set your wheel rotation first. Because if you get all your settings where you want them say at 1080, but then you decide to change to 900, all those wonderful settings you have, they may no longer produce the same feel.
If you wanna pick my brain about the Fanatec, feel free to find me on Morad's discord and send me a DM (idunno_guess). Sorry my reply isn't very helpful.
Thanks for the video daniel 🙏 matches pretty well with how i have mine set.
When demonstrating slewrate you were saying that 5.something felt really numb, but 0.99 should feel much more numb, because the lower the number, the slower the motors reactions. So maybe you should do a bit more testing on that one filter?
I will definitely try the force reduction, havent really played with it because i thought its gimmicky haha.
I have been playing with it a lot more so I’m understanding better.
@@danielmorad thats great daniel 👍
There is one thing i noticed using your settings about the static force reduction. because its a time based effect it can make you basically feel something that the telemetry isnt giving out. Its not able to change the cornering forces overall, it just takes the % you put in and decreases the force by that in corners within a second. So if you go one second in one direction the cornering force will get 30% less, but the big jolts, fast direction changes and hard oversteer effects will stay the same. So sometimes it makes you feel understeer without it even happening. So i am wondering if you could make a profile that feels just as realistic, but without using static force reduction. Instead tweak the max force, or reduce the max nm of the sc2 to match the cornering forces, and then adjust the weight and activity with slewrate, recon, tbw, and the damping sliders. Running a tad less damping and especially inertia will also reduce the load you feel while cornering. I have settled at 21-19nm on the wheel and 65nm max force ingame for the lmp2, without static force reduction now.
Or is that just how power steering feels in general on such a car? I have no idea, but it makes the forces feel a bit backwards sometimes because the telemetry is building up resistance, while the static force reduction takes it away at the same time.
Nice video. It's nice to get feedback from someone with actual experience driving the Merc GT3. But to be honest I kinda liked your original "Moradness" profile on True Drive. I think what it made it slightly better was that the "Simcube Reconstruction Filter" was at 3 and the "Torque Bandwidth Limit" (TBW) was unlimited. The lower the Recon filter the lower the latency and the higher the TBW the lower the latency. Also I wonder how much one has to compensate FFB strength for smaller and lighter wheels like the "Asher F28" I'm using. Because right now the GT3 profile seems like it requires a lot of strength considering the GT3 Merc is supposed to be power assisted. Other than that I look forward to more profiles on True Drive to at least get a closer approximation of what the real race car feels like. Thanks.
I look forward to make more
This is exactly what I was looking for ! A real divers feedback (no pun intended ) on FFB on the SC2 pro !! Thanks again! Keep up the good work on the videos.
The pun was great haha.
@@danielmorad if you can, what is the furthest width of the 2 end monitors ?
Thanks for sharing. This was invaluable to me setting up my SimuCube 2 Pro. A lot of profiles have overdone effects, but your profile works really well in Assetto Corsa with some small tweaks via Content Manager.
Hi Daniel! Great video!
One question: maybe you can share with us how much different a GT3 car feels compared to a road car. Most people know how a street car feels and would like to know how much more force is needed to turn a GT3 race car.
By that it might be easier for us non race drivers to dial in the wheel. Same goes for brake settings.
How ever these information and comparisons between sim and real race car is what everyone is looking for. Thanks for sharing!!!!
That’s a great topic for a future video
Typical roadcar steering torques after PS are around 4-5Nm or so mid-corner. So you would be looking at roughly twice the effort for a ballpark. Although roadcar PS is heavily filtered and won't allow peaks through, racecar will to some point.
@@ArchOfficial Thank you
Great video and thanks so much for posting your True Force settings. I have an SC2 pro as well and set it up over a year ago and have been very happy with it. I run primarily iRacing. I’ll compare my settings to yours but at this point I am very comfortable with what I have so likely will be too scared to change anything now due to muscle memory developed over the past year that I have had it.
If it works, don’t change it. You can look at what I’m using and maybe implement some of the stuff but if it works, keep using it.
Running a Simucube while having Fanatec sponsors on your car, hehe ;) On a serious note, thanks for your vid and breakdown of your settings, very helpful in fine turning my own settings.
Awesome. Your channel is going to blow up. Great helpful content from a legit gt3 driver.
Thanks so much. It’s cool to share this information.
Thanks man, def subbed. I think the only people qualified to tell me how my sim rig (which I just got) should feel is an actual driver haha funny bc I hopping into ACC for the first time yesterday and chose the MB GT3 that you run. Thanks for the tips and insight!
these videos just keep on getting better. keep up the good stuff!
Thanks so much. I’m getting more comfortable and I’m figuring out what topics need to be spoken about.
For the first time a good and clear tutorial, to explain how to setup our Simucube 2! You're the Boss, now waiting how to setup Simucube2 for open wheel cars like Formula 1, Indycar, and light car IR04 and FF1600. My congratulation.👍
I’ll get it done!!
Thanks, very interesting, but why was increasing the slew rate limit feeling more numb? The FFB should get snappier by increasing this value (Nm/ms).
It slows down the information transfer based on the information. I’m just going based off of what I felt in my hands. Do you have anything that you can elaborate on that can help me and everyone else?
@@danielmorad My guess why it may have felt numb going from off to 5Nm/s probably has to do with two things.. One a little Placebo as going from full active (off) to any slew limitation is quite a difference in feel.. But it also probably has to do somewhat with settings balance.. While each setting does a fairly specific thing they do cross over in nature. it is possible that the combination of game signal, and the other filters made the wheel feel a bit more flatlined than it normally might.. Generally speaking the lower the Nm/s you go the less abrupt the wheel will feel as of course the closer you get to off on slew the quicker the wheel will accelerate when in a limiting situation. Note the SLEW Filter is ONLY active when the torque acceleration rate is HIGHER than the slew.. This means that it isn't always active but only is in effect when dictated by the signal.
@@danielmorad I also guess it's a nocebo-effect😀 I had a discussion about the new Asetek-base about those numbers because Boosted Media claims, he can feel that the Asetek is faster because of 9 instead of 6 Nm/ms slewrate, which is IMO total BS. If it takes 1,5 or 2 ms to get a 12 Nm jolt is indistinguishable and you don't want such jolts anyway. Humans can't feel 1 ms difference and iRacing allegedly only provides 60 Hz FFB update rates, that's one update every 16,7 ms. With your settings a 12 Nm jolt would take 12 ms and it might be trick to prevent the wheelbase to rip the wheel out of your hands in some circumstances, but seems a bit low and I wouldn't go below 3 just based on logic and the fact that the FFB in iRacing is already slow af.
Thanks for the video! Amazing settings & profile. I was using another one from a present YT, but your settings are such more precise and makes me way more confident for the car. With that, Im really faster with your profile💪
Glad it helped!
I’m glad you touched on this subject, anyone who thinks you need a 20nm wheel base has never tried driving at 20nm, it is a ridiculous amount of force . Thanks for the information
The thing is headroom.. a 20Nm or 25Nm base allows you to run at the cars average force while being able to retain and feel the information that comes through at a higher strength level.. Generally speaking with iRacing over the years most people will fall into the strength ratio or Specific Output of .35 - .45:1, Daniel is at .5:1, Personally I run at .6:1.. this means that while you have 20 or 25Nm on tap for the wheel to give you you are running at an actual at the wheel strength of a % of the Game telemetry.. So when the Game puts out a signal of say 30Nm Daniels wheel will put out 15Nm so the majority of the time with the iRacing Mercedes GT3 he would actually be getting around 10 - 14Nm based on all the telemetry I have seen. but when he hits a curb and it outputs a spike of 50Nm the wheel will have the room to increase the output to 25Nm .. With a lower strength wheel say a 12Nm wheel if you ran settings with strength as Daniel is running in iRacing you would actually CLIP about half of the nominally run signal which means you would be losing fidelity and the car would feel weird.. This is why you might actually NEED 20Nm+ capability from your wheel.. It is not that you use it all the time but it is there when needed.
You only reach 20nm at max force spikes like the biggest curb strike or biggest high speed dip while turning. Or God forbid biggest crash force. But you need tweek the .ini files to eliminate the runaway wheel forces in big crashes. You set wheel force to 20nm (Second line in iracing SIM settings) and adjust max force in nm, not strength in % (click on strength so it changes to max force, First line) to suit your preference for the particular car your in (usually around 30-40nm). You
@@brionsohn2705Exactly....
What I meant but you have much more technical vocabulary...
IT'S more complex than just cranking up your overall strength.... It's all about The Maximum Forces You "MAY" receive, and not "clipping" and missing those feelings "Fidelity" is the Key👍🏼
@@wesleyedwards1051 Yea iRacing is different in the way it handles forces than other "games". the Funny thing is they inadvertently set it up this way but it is actually perfect for DD wheels and high strength. They effectively use an Attenuation model of setting strength which is akin to High End Audio.. this is where everything comes into the system at 100% and then is actually Attenuated from there.. It allows basically ANY strength wheel to be able to output the same strength up to a point and then gets hard clipped by the software. using this method actually keeps iRacing from overtaxing the hardware but it also allows for little distortion in the application of the signal.
I've ran into clipping on my SC2 Pro a few times, so... it's a bit of a workout, especially if the car has very active ffb with lots of spikes. It can be perfectly driveable though, depending on car.
Indycar drivers have to put up with torque figures well above 40Nm. Superformula with power steering is in the 30Nm range. Heck, driving a kart is somewhere in the 30-40Nm range.
Problem with pretty much all sims, to varying degrees, is that steering sensitivity is lower and torque delta is higher than in the real world. Meaning, the cars don't react quite as well to steering input while the torque ramps up far too quickly. This gives a skewed perception of the torque figures as you have to work a lot harder.
That's why you have real drivers like Daniel who, based on feel, come up with these lower torque figures. Daniel even artificially reduces the torque delta with his settings. The real car probably has significantly higher torque figures, but with better steering sensitivity and more forgiving torque delta.
You’ve become the best simracing setup content creator on YT in my opinion. New sub here 👍
That’s super nice of you to say! There are a lot of great creators in my opinion. Happy to offer my views on some topics as well :)
Another killer video Daniel. Very helpful as always. Keep them coming please 🙌🏼
Thanks so much! I will
Good video dude I appreciate the detailed explanations of each setting…being a mechanical engineer, It helps me to understand why/how things work they where they work.
Thanks Daniel you explained these set better than anybody I ever heard before you help my lap times Thanks alot
That’s awesome! Glad to help out :)
Tried your your settings on my simucube 2 pro - feels really good thank you.
Glad it helped!
Awesome video! Really great help for setting up my simucube 2 pro. I'm going to try your suggestions, even though I'm in AMS2 more often than iracing nowadays. Thanks, Daniel.
Glad I could help!
This video was an eye opener. I race open wheelers most times and dabble in gt3 and Porsche cup for fun here and there. I wish Moza had this much adjustability haha simucube ftw
This is the big difference between the higher end wheel bases. I’m sure you can tinker with yours and get it feeling pretty good.
I kind use something similar, even though I've never driven a race car. You pointed out some very nice things to consider, thanks for sharing.
My pleasure. Glad that this video helps you out.
I was looking for a video like that for so long this video shows up in my recommendations weeks later thank you
Glad I could help
Great video my friend! yeah.. gotta say this is a key element to get it similar to whatever car you are driving in a sim. Thanks for posting.. I showing this to my buddies..
Great video! Semi related topic, pedals: IRL when on the track I suck at heel/toe. Should my next sim pedals be inverted so their layout is closer to that of my track car or are the sim implementations of heel/toe too different from reality to be useful?
[ i used you setting on my VRS wheel base at BELLE ISLE.after i got used to the new settings, sooooooo much more control then i did with no filter on. i feel the cars rotation so much better now that the wheel is not trying to jump out of my hands all the time. now i can focus on the track and the car. and not the what the wheel is doing. ] FOR THE THANK-YOU!
That’s awesome. I’m glad it helped you out.
awesome video thank you!
debunking a lot of myths, that's great.
the dbox actuators seem quite impressive as of immersion, kind as a FFB for the whole body. :)
They are! It really took my experience to the next level
@@danielmorad thank you for your feedback. In the future it may be really interesting to have your views on VR, I’d guess triple monitors are more enjoyable to you, but maybe VR enables a better sense of speed and ground elevation perception.
Amazing video and thank you so much! My question is what in-game Max Force FFB setting are you using?
Tested it today, and really liked it! Set as default profile after 4 laps!
Thanks for sharing!
Awesome!! Thanks :)
Thanks for the great information. I use the same Simucube 2 wheel base and the D-Box Gen 5 as well. I am heading over to rig right after I post these comments to give it a go. I have learned that less is more on the motion of my rig. Watching how you are moving in your seat looks to me just a bit more movement than how I see myself move in my videos of myself. Your input would be very valuable to help myself and other sim racers to get the proper amount of tactile feedback. I look forward to your future videos and experienced voice.
I actually have a short video ready to post about my D box settings. Less is definitely more. If you need more information, you can join my discord and we can chat there.
Would love to see DBOX video.
This is really insightful content. Absolutely brilliant - Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow I was surprised that my settings are very similar for all of the same reasons you gave. Using some damping, lower slew rate, and a little sf reduction etc. Great vid thanks!
Glad it helped!
Great video. Its all good and well to dial down ffb settings like real life but when your rig is stationary with no motion and rumble kits, ffb is all you have to go off
Absolutely and I think that the settings are still great if the motion rig is off
I do like the comparison between real experience to sim racing. I still use a Logitech G27 and a Logitech Driving Force Pro that I have modded the power supply to increase the FFB on Playstation platform. With the increased power I scale the FFB to 50 percent as well and have quick lap times. I use an Accuforce wheel base for PC and also use lower FFB for better control. At first I was faster on the G27 than on the Accuforce but with practice I am faster on the DD wheel. Enjoy the content, keep them coming Yo.
Thanks so much
In terms of TH-cam chapters, always start with a timestamp of 00:00 and a label.
This will automatically insert chapter markers into the player.
Hope this helps.
Thank you so much for this information. I’m sharing with my content creator right now.
Would be interesting if you do an update how 360hz and Recon filter v2 effects these.
Daniel, great stuff! Exactly what simracers are looking for. Thank you!
Great to hear!
I hope you can come back and answer a few questions that people are asking. You are not using high torque correct? This looks significantly easier than running this profile at high torque. Also, you said you are turning FFB down on iracing. How much are you turning FFB down? You mentioned in your video you think it's more like 12nm. Thanks
You had a profile some while ago called super sensitive, i tried it but it just felt wrong to me.. However you’r GT3 profile is so nice to drive. Thank you for sharing your knowledge to us!! 😎😎😎
I had to overhaul the whole thing. It was about time.
@@danielmorad Haven’t driven a GT3 before, so I take your word for it 🤩🤩
hi Dan,
I just discovered your channel on youtube and have been binging a bit.
I appreciate your conversational style, humor, humility, and informed recommendations. All good.
I'm 66 and just taking up sim racing about 2 years now. Enjoying and learning from your content and eager for more!
For me, the one thing I have come to rely on when racing, is the Track IR 5.
I have a 34 inch, ultra wide single screen, and until I can budget for triples, (would love to hear your recommedations for those) Track IR is working great for me.
Any thoughts or experience with that?
Thanks for sharing!
That’s awesome. Welcome to the community. I haven’t tried it but I can definitely recommend triple monitors.
Thank You answering the request. Now I have some idea on how the real car should feel. i'm not very fast but this sure make sim more enjoyable
Glad you’re enjoying it
I remember when I used to have the G29 on Gran Turismo 5 and people who tried it (usually folks who just drive road cars to work or leisure non racers) thought it felt like in real life driving a normal car.
But man I bet that expensive 25nm wheel base is next level.
For the time being, I am on the 8nm Fanatec.
But that is one insane rig. And I guess there are always the even greater gear out there. Albeit even more expensive.
The Simucube wheel is wild. So much detail. You need to try it
Awesome info, thankyou, I'm gonna buy some of your gloves as a sign of appreciation for this and your other videos
That’s awesome. I really appreciate it. What style is your favorite?
Music volume much better this time! Like deserved for not cutting out that spin! 😁
We got to keep it real. Lol.
Thanks for the great explanation. What is your dynamic system?
I am using the D box motion platform
Hey Daniel, thanks for the wonderful videos. What settings do you have inside of iracing? I mean in the ffb menu in the simulator
I have everything posted in my discord
Here I am trying to adapt this info to improve the ffb for my Fanatec DD Pro in GT7. I know the physics aren’t the best, but the VR is so good I can’t stop.
Man so glad I found this channel. Excellent content
Really appreciate the comments and nice words :)
I was hoping for a video like this, I’d love to hear your thoughts on what sim replicates the AMG GT3 the best. Have you ever driven AC or ACC? If so what are your thoughts on them?
Even though a lot of people would assume ACC is the best GT3 sim, it really does not drive well. It’s merely down to the fact that the braking technique is so far away from what is actual reality. It actually is harmful for me to drive a cc as it will destroy my real life braking technique.
Wow, what’s the main braking difference? Can you make a video about the driving in ACC and how it differs from real life? Great videos!
@@danielmorad wow, I wasn’t expecting to hear that. That’s very interesting, maybe in a future video you can touch more on that, I’m eager to hear more haha.
@danielmorad Very interesting take…this needs to be your next video
100% would like to know what the the braking issue is?
Great video, thank you for sharing your experience with us! 😎
Thanks for watching!