Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGR) Checking
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.พ. 2009
- Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGR) Checking
Disclaimer:
This video is not meant to be a definitive how to.Always consult a professional repair manual before starting your repair.I am not responsible for any problems that you might incur by watching or following this video.Follow at your own risk. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I've never seen anything like this in my life man. That's awesome. Thanks for the tip
Best instructional video I have seen in a long time, THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS!
Hi Rich, thanks for another great video which really helped me out yesterday on my 1996 Saturn SW1 with over 264,000 miles. Your pop can method worked great in troubleshooting my problem. My problem was that my car was lurching while driving at speeds of around 45 mph. Blocking the exhaust from getting back into the intake using your pop can plate trick solved the lurching so I went and replaced my EGR valve and my car is once again running great (I'm back on my way to 300,000 miles and beyond).
To all who say it would fly in a shop: I Took my car to a dealership today, they told me they would have to "start" by replacing the EGR valve and cleaning the manifold, because it was the "only way" to tell and it would be $584, and they hoped that would fix it, but if not, they'd have to keep digging. I would much rather my mechanic try this with a 50¢ can of coke first. Needless to say, I politely refused, paid them the $70 for their diagnostic, and stopped at advance auto for a egr valve, gasket, & carb cleaner. I already have a can here. Thanks but no thanks. I'll stick with our youtube mechanic richpin! Thanks again for another great video!
This is from 4 years ago but I'm just wondering ,did they diagnose it right? If so why would refuse to pay ?
@@bradybelton6315 ye exactly, poor garage guy's get screwed by the public as well, it cut's both way's, NOT ALL mechanics are dishonest,trying to earn an honest living🤥
guys like you are GOD sent! I really loved the can gasket method,DAMN SICK thank you!
Oh ok thats an ingenious way of testing a faulty EGR valve. Cool thanks for your explanation. This clarifies the reason of the temp gasket.
Well done. I like the way you suggested checking it - better than seeing if you can gently push in the 'screw" thing on the valve opening (got that from the forums).
We have taken the laptop into the garage to do stuff and watch your videos as a guide. Thanks!
Thank you Richpin you have helped me a lot of time and saved me a ton of money which I couldn't afford on my Saturn. Thanks!!!
Thank you, i thit this job in my car, because you load this video and the knock sensor too. Thank you again.
Am I the only one who hears everybody loves Raymond with this guy
Good test idea brother . I'm going to do this to my Chevy . Thanks for all your videos .
WOW,YOU SIR JUST FIXED MY PROBLEM ON MY 87 4.3 LITER CHEVY S10.THANK YOU.👍
thank you!!! position test cant tell a leak in the valve,this test can ,thank you again.
Great training video! I like the metal gasket made out of a soda can. Real field fab work!! I admire your skill level...
You guys are amazing! Thank you for sharing!
That's so true thanks u so much
thanks for the answer budy, you are the best, all the videos rocks, thanks a lot for the video
I've cleaned this valve 3 times in 2 years removing lots of carbon soot. Kerosene worked nicely. My s-series is an oil burner.
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks mate. I'm doing this tomorrow on my lacetti. Same EGR valve as you show here . There only £20 new on eBay but I've got pop in the fridge so will try that first 👍
Went w Cleaning the old EGR...It's was Carbon Packed, after 15 min. of cleaning, and following the video step-by-step, the Engine Light went off, and it ran great !! The pindle was caked, it was most likely sticking..thx Frank
What code did you get? Did your car stall ? And refuse to start?
@@widowmaker4097did you find out what was wrong with yours..?
@@idecidenotyou no
@samlo6 Sorry about that i put a annotation in the video.
Yes i have seen them.They prevent chunks of carbon jamming up the egr valve.
Yes that is correct the idea is to isolate the valve to see if it is the problem.
@Hail2TheChimp1st The EGR lowers combustion temps to lower the output of Nitrogen oxide only.
great advice and video thanks
Hey Rich! You’re smart!
very helpful thanks a bunch. had a po300-po306 each cylinder misfiring and po300 being random misfire on all cylinders. did your trick and the difference is night and day. will clean it tomorrow and see if it works, but if not I still saved a bunch of money on diagnostics and the egr is only 40.00 dollars. keep up the good work. thanks, Barfallenmule.
stupid idiot - NOT po306 - P0306
Nazi Grammar "not". You had caps on, ideot.
+Nazi Grammar - Chill Out :/// Some People use " O " as in " 0 ", because it might be easier for them or even an honest mistake :((((. Maybe you should try to teach them, rather than calling them names :(((. You can call People NAMES when they deserve it, but not in this case. :////
Great Video. THANK YOU.
A good video! The EGR on my daughter's car was shot, like you I taped it as I replaced it. Take a look.
Nice work! Always love seeing a home remedy!
@bavow What it does is block exhaust from getting to the egr valve to see if it is leaking exhaust gas around the pintle part of the egr valve.
@TEQU1LLO Egr code can be the EGR itself or the passageways to the unit.Misfires are normally spark plug and ignition wires.
@piratesbelay When it comes to a used egr valve it is hard to look at it and tell if is good.
Yes you can with varying degrees of success .Use a small scraper and stiff brush and choke cleaner.
thanx for the link: so helpful
@FANtomCore The aluminum can gasket can only be used for 5-10 minutes of testing .
Remember the aluminum can block off gasket will only work for a very short time before the hot exhaust gasses burn through it but enough time to check if the EGR was the problem.
Disclaimer ☝️
Use Red pop cans Tango as there steel .👍
Did you check for a intake manifold vacuum leak 00-02s sohc had a misaligned gaskets for the factory.
Good video bro. Gotta try it soon lol
@toninhouk The check engine light will come on and the engine will pollute more than it should.
And there I was worried that the gaskets for EGR are something hi tech and expensive :D
Thank you very much for tihs idea !!!
@theodogeo I would suspect your problem is the valve.When the tube gets blocked it turns on the check engine light.
What this test does is to see if removing the valve temporary from the circuit will improve the running of the engine which would point to a faulty EGR.
So, did it improve the performance?
And did you get a faulty egr?
Thanks for the video 🙂
Well??????
One thing I've learned from cutting metal is to always wear gloves. Another is to try and cut the metal without backing off on the scissors or snips. This prevents the "fishhooks" or "murders" on the metal. This is from someone who's been "murdered" a lot by these things.
As always, a lot of good advice. My sisters lives in the Boston area. Beautiful city and great people.
@vbBegin1957 The soda can gasket isolates the egr from the engine to see if the engine runs better if so then the egr is faulty.
@piratesbelay ive got a 97 myself and its definitely a one man job. if you remove the air intake tube at the throttle body and move it aside, (and even take out the battery if need be) you will have more than enough room to reach around the master cylinder to get to it, though i would suggest jacking that front corner of the car to allow access to the under side if you need to unclip the fuel line from the bottom of the filter, they can be quite tricky sometimes.
Thanks. It's really amazing how many people don't get this test..you know I learned how to make temp gaskets like this in grade 9 high school with a small ball peen hammer.
@Xearo101 Yes it will
All because...... Everybody loves Raymond.
@topgrain No because you are not taking the problem out of the loop which is the valve seat area of the valve which can leek exhaust.
My VW engine kept stalling when I released the gas pedal especially in heavy traffic, so all I did was remove the EGR valve electrical connector and the stalling stopped! I guess I disabled the valve by doing that?
@manudelmarche I must differ with you because this block off plate will only last a short time and is crucial in diagnosing a bad EGR
The idea is to isolate the egr from the engine to see if the engine runs better.
@jmellef The only other part on the 92 that i know of is the egr vacuum control solenoid
@ThebigHurtt I do not know the history of the autozone egrs.How is the car running.
@Xearo101 I just did one with compressed air but if it has a lot of build up you will have to use a wire or gun cleaner.
@jcqln2 I think if you can not find a leak it is being burned off.A lot of cars can burn the oil with it not showing in the exhaust and on the spark plugs.
It was actually the Gas pedal itself. When the car is running and its hot inside the vehicle the sensor starts malfunctioning. I already solved the problem. Bought a new pedal and it's been good since :) Thanks though.
@ThebigHurtt Yes run the car for a few seconds without the egr to blow loose carbon out.It would not hurt to use a little cleaner.
It should as you are only taking the egr out the loop to see if it is faulty.
You have to block it off this way because pulling the wire off will not stop the exhaust from reaching the valve in the EGR which is what you want to test to see if it is leaking.
Thank you.
@mike4fo Good eye yes it is a Saturn
Thank you
I'm having the same problem with a 97 sonoma, I'm about to try this out.
AT LAST A FIX FOR MY CHEVY 4.3L VORTEX ENGINE, POSSIBLE FIX FOR YOURS!
Hi,
I have a 2000 blazer with the same problem as you and thousands of other people out there.
NO one could figure out my problem. I purchased my blazer used last year with 113,000 miles on it.
It ran great over the winter and this spring it started misfiring on cyl. 4 just like yours.
I changed everything in the ign. system just because of the age, hoping it would solve the problem. It did not.
NO big deal, plugs, plug wires, rotor, Inlet air temp. sensor, distributor cap, coil, & alternator. They needed to be replaced anyway, but what a bummer I still had a misfire on cyl. 4.
To make matters worse, I would only get the code P0304 (misfire cyl. 4) only a few times in months of driving.
No other codes came up. It would be worse on wet or low air pressure days. On dry days, or higher air pressure days, the problem would be almost nun-existent. After four or five miles of driving first thing in the morning, the misfire would go away and the engine would run great for the rest of the day even if I let it set for ten hours while at work. It only gave me a problem first thing in the morning. I would leave my house going up a hill for about a mile. The misfire would only show up around 2000 RPM when the engine would try to shift, then the misfire, and the trans. would jump from first to second in and out until I would let off of the gas and let it shift and then give it more gas. kind of like driving a standard even though this is a automatic transmission.
I asked everyone that new anything about automobiles if they had any clue of what the problem might be.
I got the same old probable cause problems that I have already tried.
I new a good scanner would help a lot but I do not own one and so many other people do not own one, so I thought I would try to find the answer with good old common sense and testing.
Four weeks or so I read and watched every video and training article that was related to my problem, and what I learned was amazing!
I found out there are thousands of people out there with the same exact problem I was having with my engine and nothing seemed to work. Knowing that, I began to realize it was not a simple, obvious problem that was addressed often.
To find this problem I knew I had to understand how all the parts worked and how to test them.
I learned how to test the sensors with a meter, so I tested every sensor on the truck I could using a vac. pump, volt/ohm meter and everything tested GOOD.
I tested the MAP sensor, Crank Case sensor, Throttle Positioning sensor, MAF sensor, Air Temp. sensor, Cam positioning sensor, EGR valve checking for 5 volt reference, correct signal voltage, and good ground.
I noticed the problem was worse on wet days even if it did not rain and the engine was dry.
I figured it must be a pressure thing because the problem was worse with wet days which equals lower air pressure.
Now with that in mind, I looked for a control that worked on air pressure and on my engine it is the MAP sensor.
I unplugged the MAP sensor and wow, it ran great with no problem at all.
Now I have already tested the MAP sensor and everything tested great. I started looking into how the MAP sensor works with my system and found it monitors the EGR valve, and sends results to the computer to help in adjusting the timing under load at certain engine conditions. I plugged back in the MAP sensor and the problem came back.
Knowing it monitors the EGR valve I decided to unplug the EGR valve and give it a go.
Behold, the truck runs great with no problems.
Of course it is running very rich and this is not a fix but a clue to the problem.
I should mention that the 2000 GM 4.3L Vortec engine uses a lineal EGR valve.
This valve has only one solenoid and uses no vacuum line connected to it.
The EGR valve has a throttle positioning sensor (potentiometer) built into the EGR to tell the computer what percentage the valve is open or closed. It is a five wire plug. One wire 12VDC, one wire 12V ground both used to operate the EGR pintle movement. One wire 5VDC reference, one wire signal wire(voltage back to computer), and last is a ground wire.
I removed the EGR valve again to double check it.
The original test I preformed on the EGR included a good cleaning of any carbon build up, cleaning and checking the pintle and seats for any build up, a 12 volt power on and off confirming pintle smooth movement, and a ohms reading on all pins confirming ohms drop on the pintal positioning sensor.
Something bothered me though, I noticed when preforming the pintal positioning sensor test.
About 1/8" of an inch of the pintal being pushed in, the ohms jumped to a reading 1K ohms lower than it should be for about 1/2 a second and then return to the correct value.
Every time I pushed the pintal in It would do it. kind of a hiccup of sorts, other than that, the EGR tested perfect.
Pushing the pintal in, the ohms started at 4.9K closed valve and drops to .57k open valve.
Valve closed= 4.9k
Pushing pintal in very slowly = 4.9k-3.8k smooth fall.
Continuing pintal inward from 3.8k it would drop instantly to 2.7k for 1/2 second and return to 3.4k and fall at a smooth rate as the pintal continued to be pushed in..
Now if this was on a good scan tool it would show up as a quick voltage drop. Still easy to miss.
Anyway, I changed the EGR and problem solved.
Truck runs like new.
I know you may have changed your EGR valve, but even new parts are bad off the shelf. It would test good, you have to move the pintal in and out very very slow and watch for the ohms to change in a smooth up and down. If it jumps around at all, there is a problem with the pintal positioning sensor and the EGR needs to be replaced.
I Got no codes for bad EGR
The only code I got was P0304 Misfire Cyl. 4
Sorry so long, hope it can help
TayloredSteam
have 1999 astro van 4.3 and hesitates under load up hills after shifts int o over drive, then when i let up on the gas it would run good just about everything new except for egr valve? Rich
Thanks Scott Taylor! Best write-up. Better than the video!
That’s awesome! Had to copy all of it going back and forth by memory so I can test EGR. Wish I could copy and paste on TH-cam.
I’ve got P0300 and a headache lol
Thank you!
@@jpinkston4058 lol really was
depends on the emissions setup as well. Federal or California emissions.
Yes the can is only for testing as the hot exhaust will burn through in a short time.
@Cooki3Dough07 it is almost double $65.new so i guess it is off to the wrecking yard.
Thank you sir
Someones selling a Miata with an EGR message.
Could come in handy if we decide to buy it
Awesome!!!
I fixed my code for DPFE for a few dollars. Got a used one at wrecking yard. Got a spare used one too. Original one went 17 years !
You can reuse it if it looks in good condition.
You want to see if exhaust is flowing pass the valve.
@nli2work seems like you still have a egr problem sometimes the wires right at the egr can get broken or corroded.
Genius....
@guayacan07 actually, if it never opens, your not really going to know one way or the other. The one on my truck is electronic controlled by a motor on top of it. The computer takes readings from the MAP and TPS and calculates when it should open. Your right, if it is vacuumed control, it would be simply easier to use a vacuum gun to see if it operates
Thank you .....
@eifeldude1 EGR opens at Wide open throttle so you rev the engine up, disconnect the electronic or vacuum line and see if the engine changes
I eventually replaced my egr valve since cleaning the apparent good valve didn’t fix the alarm. Spent several labor dollars to no avail. Finally the mechanic said my computer needed replacing. Long story short, I disconnected the positive battery lead on my battery for about one hour, then re-connected it and no egr alarm for well over 100 miles. When all else fails, you may want to try this before spending big bucks.
Thank you so much.
Just wondering; for testing purposes would not taking the wire off the EGR, pulling off the hose and then blocking the metal vacuum tube that sticks out of it not have the same effect as blocking the EGR off with the cut can?
Once again, excellent video. Do you think of these things at random? get asked questions and then make the vids to show what to do? or are you just using these to help the rest of us while documenting the repairs you are making on your own car? :)
Thx scotty
the best trick i did it to my renault master engine 2.3litre dci 2013 and what a diference performenc woow belive me
I love the Brooklyn accent.
@piratesbelay I have only replaced the later ones 98-02 as of this time so i can not give you any first hand knowledge on the 91-97 ones.
The passages are more than likely plugged up and not necessarily a faulty EGR
Sometimes the pintle of the valve does not seat because of carbon that is why we use a block off plate for testing.
It could be a possible restriction in the exhaust system.
MAESTRO
Speechless! :-0
@richpin06a Thank you. What would you recommend to clean the passageway from the exhaust port to the valve's seat. I just rebuilt the engine and getting the exhaust manifold off wouldn't be a problem. Any thoughts on the best way to clean the passageway? (Engine is in frame)
@richpin06a
Got it. Thanks. I might have to get going and try this.
lol i love the part "take it for a ride and see what happens"
@fixinggrace What clue gave it away that i live in the Boston area....lol
My EGR valve on my 96 sl1 went bad, it was actually pulling so much amperage that it was blowing the fuse. I removed it, cleaned everything up and replaced it with a new one. Now I am only getting about 33mpg whereas before I was getting a solid 37 sometimes better. What do you think could be causing this?
@pires53 It will pollute the air you breath more.
OMG RAY ROMANO INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO!
Hahahaha!!
Double Hahahaha!!
I have an '01 Saturn SL SOHC. My problem is that my car hesitates when I take off and through shifting. I cleaned out my EGR and during the soda can test it still did the same thing. So with a clean EGR it hesitates, blocking also hesitates. What else can I do? Maybe PCV? Faulty TPS? I did disconnect my pre-cat O2 sensor and it was worse. Could it be the O2 sensor? Thanks again and thanks for your videos.
I like it good idea
Thanks for liking