@Andrew K Fletcher I have just done your method and I can confirm NO MORE OVERBOOST LIMP MODE. I tweaked your method slightly. I sprayed into the air intake just after the MAF. Tried both Smart straw up and down - I preferred it down for the spray pattern. I also then had a garden sprayer (same as the Revive Turbo cleaner) which I removed the internal straw and sprayed 750ml of tap water inverted to "rinse" it through. Went for a 20 mile drive and it now feels more eager and boosting correctly throughout the RPM range. Before I did this method I put the car up on the ramps to confirm that infact the boost actuator for the turbo vanes was very stiff. For reference this was on a 2006 Skoda Octavia 140PD BKD engine code with 153k miles. Thank you again.
It might feel good right now probably because you are burning a bunch of oven cleaner. But not too far down the line you either just killed your engine or made a mechanic very happy.
@@MyJam1981. Putting CAUSTIC chemicals through your Engine is a BAD idea . It will absolutely eat all the Rubber Hoses etc . And quite likely damage the Anodised / Surface Treated Metal Parts too . EGR systems are badly engineered . Built to fail basically .
I used in several cars Mercedes and Volvo, Liqui Moly 5168 pro line 400 ml, (only for Diesel engines), with very good cleaning results and great performance. It Cleans all the intake system without disassembly Turbo, EGR valve, Flaps, etc. The spray is a mix of cetone and thinner. It is applied just after MAF sensor. The turbo, EGR and the engine performs much better after Liqui Moly 5168
I used the water method in an old 1.9tdi Passat AFN. Cured limp and went on to cover 287,000 miles over the years before I sold it. I removed the egr also and cleaned it with Mr muscle. Decarb with water has been carried out successfully for a long time.
FUCKING BRILLIANT! Sod the specialised cleaners for the tdi turbos! I had 2 options scrap the car or do this ... I empty whole can in to the turbo! Waited 20 minutes... Then start the car running ... Then I emptied another can of Mr muscle Owen cleaner .... After that I have sprayed 400ml water in to the engine ... Engine was on 2000rpm mostly . On short time I have increased the rpm to 3000 .... It Fuckin done the job . Splendid!!!!! U r a STAR man ... U have saved my car and 1000s ££££ I can hear the whistle on my turbo ... No juggers on engine too...I taught my gearbox was bad ... Nothing to do with the gearbox! Reference Mercedes c220 cdi w203 My engine light come on the dashboard while I was doing this .... I disconnected the battery waited 10 minutes then re connect it ... And the light didn’t come back on😂😂😂😂😂😂 I love u 😍 !!!!!!!!!!
Oven cleaner and hair spray are part of my tool kit for more than 20 years. :-) For the EGR/ manifold and the such whenever possible I prefer to remove and clean on the side. But definitely oven cleaner is the major player. BTW in case anyone wondering, the hair spray is to assemble tires. Perfect rim sealer and when fresh/wet serves as lubrication. :-)
I’ve just done this with my beetle 1.9 I didn’t bother with the water though. I just sprayed most of the can in so it went right into the inlet manifold too. I left it for an hour then reconnected the hose and took the car for a spin. I kid you not I’ve left black marks down my road where all the sh1te has come out 😂
The reason you DO NOT do this as when the carbon deposits release themselves, they'll get chucked around the gubbins and could potentially cause more problems. The best way to do this is to take the EGR off and do it there. Whilst you're at it, might as well take the turbo off and clean all the carbon deposits off there too. Sure its not as quick, but its doing the job right. Treat these engines well and they'll do 500,000 miles without a problem.
In addition, as others have said, oven cleaner will have adverse affects on the aluminium parts of the engine. Chucking oven cleaner into the inlet just isn't a very good idea. Sure its a quick fix, but you're reducing the life of the engine just to save two hours work on a weekend.
I find hydroblast does the trick perfectly. It's a fuel additive that works very well. It's not cheap but is easy to use. Straight in the fuel tank. Cleans fuel lines, fuel pump and injector's which are the main cause of causing our diesel engines to clog up and slow with all of the dirt present in diesel fuel.
I did it last summer, twice. My engine works fine, 20000 miles since then, do it carefully, it will work. Do it before oil changing. VW 2006 1.9TDi BXE. Not too much water at once - remember the water lock.
Did this on both of my vw diesels each over 150k on the clock. Really shifted the muck off the egr and intake. REALLY DO WEAR GLOVES -I HAD CHEMICAL BURNS FROM THE MR MUSCLE (I should have known better.) the water spray really shifted soot. Big pile so don’t do it on a nice driveway!
Take care with this as micro pitting can result - making the aluminium surface 'sticky' and prone to picking up fresh carbon layers. Regular maintenance with Liquid Moly before oil changes is a good way to maintain the clean inlet / turbo. Regular oil changes with a good quality oil is also essential for diesels.
Where did you spray that in? Before the turbo or the intake manifold? I have the Liqui Moly as well as a 140HP 2.0TDI and I am a little scared to use the cleaner.
...thanks for your advice Andrew. I have used your method twice over the last 2 years and it works like a treat. What i did, I 3D printed a plug with a tight fit hole to suit WD40 straw. There is no more over spill. I usually let it sit for two hours than start engine and spray intake with water. - Engine runs freely without any hesitation. I realize that this is not a permanent fix but it solves the problem for quite while cheap and cheerful. If you need such a plug feel free to contact me. - free of charge for you. Thanks again
I have a 2008 seat altea xl & have changed the brake master cylinder. While doing that, I thought I'd clean the egr & asv while I'm about it as they had to come off to gain access to the brake master cylinder. I cleaned them with brake cleaner & a small brass brush & a toothbrush. Everything went back on with no problems until after about 15 miles when the emission service center warning flashed up. Plugged in my scan tool, & sure enough the P0401 egr flow insufficient code reared its ugly head. Off with the asv, & egr again & re installed using hi temp gasket sealant & back out. Same thing.I did a fault code reset both times. I reckon I must have dislodged some shite that ended up down the intake manifold when I took it apart the first time. I used your method but only as far as step one. Mine is a 1.9 tdi, so no need to go behind the maf sensor as the hose to the asv/egr /intake is on the left hand side. I used the smart straw with some pfte tape wound around so I could slide 800 mm of 3mm inside diameter clear pipe over the top. I marked on the hose with permanent marker where the far corner of the intake was, & fed the pipe in. Good shake of the can, slide the straw into the tube, proceed to foam the intake, slowly withdrawing the tube as I sprayed, as to completely get all 4 ports. Once the tube was pulled all the way out past the anti shudder valve, you could see the filth in the foam right away. I left it to work its magic for 1hour & 45 minutes, then I wiped the inlet stubb of the asv and replaced the duct. I have the clips on mine that you just pull out a small amount with a screwdriver or pliers. Put the bonnet down, said a little prayer as I have read the negative comments as well as the positives, then turned the key, and........... Away she went! Just be ready to feed in a few revs as soon as it fires up & hold it at a steady 2000rpm for at least 20 seconds or so to make sure you don't stall the engine. You want to make sure you burn up all that liquified sheiser in the combustion chambers. I let it idle for a few minutes and then took it out for a 20 mile run on the dual carriageway. This will help to poop out any unwanted shit in the egr system. Got home and no more fault codes. This method DOES WORK! I saw no need to use water, as a good run will burn & blow all the crud anyway. I see no evidence of aluminum being eaten or seals or anything like that. You would need to soak it in a vat of the stuff for a year to do any lasting damage. As for seals? Your rubber gloves would melt would they not? Just use some common sense & save yourself some money. If you are worried about your aluminum being eaten in front of your very eyes, then you can neutralize the sodium hydroxide with vinegar. Just spray a fine mist down to intake as you would with the water technique. I saw no reason to do this myself, as I used 1/4 of a can ,if that. The foam is flammable anyway,& is just going to be burned up by the engine itself. My car is a work hack with 163000 miles on it ,so I thought I'd roll the dice, having never tried this technique before. I tweaked the method to suit my application & it worked very well. If my turbo gives me any aggravation , then it will get the same treatment as the egr system now I am confident that it works. Most of the negative comments are coming from people who have never tried this technique, as well as thinking that sodium hydroxide is an acid. It is alkaline in fact, so do a bit of research before slagging off someone for trying to help out others.
If you also did a bit of research, you would know that sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) is an alkali and a strong base and the amphoteric properties of aluminium means it dissolves in both acids and bases. Moreover, the reaction with aluminium and caustic soda produces hydrogen gas, which is somewhat explosive.
@@Weejie2011 don't make the assumption that I've not looked into this matter. Yes it will dissolve tin foil, but not an inlet manifold in an hour. I also wouldn't perform this task in my living room. Fact is I've done it, & it works. You go waste your money at the garage if you want, makes no difference to me.
@@bullenharben9905 No, it won't dissolve an inlet manifold in an hour, but it certainly can do an awful lot of alteration to the surface finish. I have used caustic soda to remove the anodised finish on bicycle parts when renovating scratched surfaces. The items can be polished and anodised again. If you have seen how rapidly the chemical works on a handlebar stem, you'll understand my point. I don't waste my money at garages. I have removed manifolds and cleaned things properly. Time consuming, but less risky. I think you are making the assumption that people are not savvy enough to be able to do the job the way it is supposed to be done.
@@Weejie2011 its a 2008 car that cost me £1500. Get off your high horse mate. Access is nigh on impossible to remove the manifold on my car, which is why I resorted to this method. Plus I didn't want to run the risk of snapping any studs where I can't even see them. I'm just saying that it works. No one is forcing you to use oven cleaner are they?
@@bullenharben9905 Can't say I've ever snapped a stud on an inlet manifold. They don't get seized up like exhaust manifold studs. The first car I had that needed cleaning out cost me £150. 2005 Astra, 3 years ago, so much the same age as yours is now. The seller had tried changing the sensor etc to try and get life back into the car but gave up and sold it cheap. All the more reason to spend time on it. Right enough, nobody is forcing me to use oven cleaner, but you should perhaps wear a pinny while you use it. It works better with one. Marigold gloves, too.
To clean your engine real good, you must insert some Scotch-Brite(tm) sponges into that hole and make sure to push it down with a stick. At least 5 sponges needed to clean thoroughly .
Brilliant! We have been doing this to our tractors on our farm for 25 years! Oven cleaner of most types does degrade the carbon composites, grabs and binds to it, and the first few minutes of the engine running blows out the exhaust. The only problem is it burns like fuck when it hits skin. But as we have expendable farm workers, and can replace them (or hide there bodies as we often do) whenever the next moron shows his face at our door! Our local diesel fitter says it has absolutely no effect or damage to the engine. Done it on my transit van when it started losing power. Now its up to full power and happily cutting up innocent motorists on the M40! Yeehaaa, you middle lane mother fucking road hogs!!!
diagoros melos haha a man after my own heart, I say to my labourers if they hurt themselves I will kick them to the kerb for someone else to sort out. You got land to bury them in, We have to find a job that needs lots of concrete 🤣
diagoros melos I think you will have to look a little closer to home to find a dolt , we only like farmland for one thing & one thing only , O'Donnell Abu
clever lad. just as fortunate that you've read the comments. if you knew how an engine actually works from the inner side of the block you wouldn't put anything like that nowhere near your engine.....use it on components taken off the car prior to treating them - yes, but spraying it inside the engine ...mhm, I do hope you know a good mechanic or at least have a few phone numbers of salvage yards at hand :)
very surprised there wasn't, spraying any liquid especially water into an engine, particularly a diesel engine is going to cause hydrolocking & has potential to cause serious internal damage
Mr muscle also cleans wheels with the worst brake dust staining you can imagine! Spray on and leave for 15 mins, then get a scotch brite pad and it will lift off with some gentle rubbing and rinsing. Without mr muscle I would have scrubbed for 3 hrs to get it done.
The only time I marry oven foam cleaner and a car is to clean alloy wheels that have years of brake dust. I'd not necessarily do it to a new car but it worked a treat on a 15 year old golf. Also cleaned the callipers up a treat. So much so that I cleaned the brakes and wheels on my Daf Lf45 and after being marked as an "advisory" on the previous MOT, this last one it didn't flag up. I only do a few 100 miles a year so they over corrode. There is no way in hell I'd spray it anywhere under the bonnet though, F that!
did mine at the turbo out end. sprayed in and let it sit for 2 hours whilst freeing up actuator. this was a year ago now. hardly any smoke now and car pulls better at mid range. What was your long term results as good to know and give confidence to others - VW Bora 220000 miles
I think most people are missing the point. The cars only worth a few hundred quid . And to remove the carbon build up by removing all the components and cleaning and installing with new gaskets not forgetting the labour costs. Would render the car worthless. As it probably only has a year or so left in it. It’s probably a cost effective way of fixing his problem. The older diesel motor is well capable of running a little MR Muscle through it without any ill effect whatsoever
But why the cold side? Shouldn't he be using the stuff on the hot side only? There shouldn't even be any carbon on the cold side. It'd all start from the pistons only, then out to the exhaust, right?
@@Blue-Lady All engines from at least early 90's usually have some kind of EGR valve. The blowby from the crankcase doesn't go straight out in the air like a tractor for example. That means you get air and also a bit oil from the blowby to come back in to the engine. You'd be surprised if you open up a intake manifold on a diesel car whit lot of miles on it. The intake look terrible whit a thick layer of burnt oil almost like a mass of rubber and that's what messes the egr-valve up. If the blowby was alowed to got straight out the engine would breathe only fresh air and this kind of problems would never occur but this is all environment associated.
@@MrJokkoma Hey Mr Jokkoma, that's interesting info, I thought EGR valves were more modern. I'll have a look-see at what I can find. I'm riding a Triton from 1995 just FYI, an MJ Dualcab Diesel.
Please never do this to your car. Oven cleaner is incredibly caustic and will harm the aluminum internals. You're also introducing this into your turbo, exhaust and DPF. This is not meant to go into your car...ever.
Update, car still runing like a dream, seldom getting limp mode and doing 45 mpg on motorway. Automatic. so must be burning more air now so will repeat soon
@@philldownes8685 they dont even waste time cleaning it. They replace it and charge it on the bill...you think dealers have time for this lmao!they dont rebuild engines and transmissions either!this is why techs at dealers know mostly how to bolt new parts in...but know nothing about overhauling.
I just get a bath bomb from lush and drop it in the fuel tank. ...everything is nice and clean and smells lovely. ..glitter shoots out of my exhaust as well!.....which is a nice touch
Worked perfectly in a touran 1.9 tdi power restored,much more responsive after took the soot out of the exhaust , i did 15 miles after overreved in 3000 rpm hope it will last
I have a Toyota 3rd gen Prius. I used an extra reach 12 mm racheting wrench for the three Nuts in the back and had a hard time reaching the 4th HIDDEN 12 mm nut underneath the EGR cooler. Used a Torx E8 socket for the two Bolts ( in the back of EGR cooler) and we finally freed the EGR assembly. Good video
Can those strong solvents affect the oil's ability to lubricate the cylinder walls while doing this decarbonizing? Is there a change in oil color after doing this? Do any of these chemicals hurt the sensors? Is the catalytic converter affected by any of the harsh solvents present in the cleaner?
I love this! I'm currently running my motor on 10w40 crisp n dry with a sunflower oil additive, I threw a potato into my turbo yesterday and i got perfectly cooked fries out the exhaust 👍 washed to turbo out with some sarsons vinegar, engines running sweet as a nut
If this was used to clean the EXHAUST side of the turbo, I would probably say "yeah, okay maybe", but since you are putting it in the egr, thus in the inlet... "Yeah, no".
I am doing the Mr Muscle treatment tomorrow but defo not through the engine ! I am taking off the egr pipe from hot side of the turbo sraying in there and almost continuously moving the actuator arm over a couple of hours. Once all back together a few revs at 3k and job done ! I have blanked my egr valve so no worry of if recirculating the cleaner. Bmw e90 320d m sport no boost under 2k at low speed.
the actual job takes 6-7h for experienced person (8h for amateur with a good tutorial) to remove all the parts (intake and turbo) and clean, there is no other permanent way. you have sprayed alkaloid on aluminium manifold and inside engine head:))) Then you have sprayed water from sprayer risking hydrolocking, brave! Thank you my friend!! Thanks to you and your video I have more people coming to my garage and paying double or triple for the job heh:)
I took the manifold egr valve apart and cleaned them in my parts cleaner couldn't take the chance on my Audi a6 it has 250.000 on it still going strong all about the services and good oil cheap shite doesn't win the race
hey i got an audi a6 2002 3.0 non turbo with 170,000 miles on it, my egr codes came on and im convinced it's the egr. the shop wants 150 to clean it out but they seem like they don't want to do the job. is there a way i can clean it without removing it besides the way in this video?
If this represents British attitude to car repairs then I am ashamed to be British. This method is a joke, EGR removal takes minutes. This clown is spraying oven cleaner into his engine and also expecting the engine to safely pass chunks of carbon through it. Does he also suggest removing the air filter in other videos?
@@FatterTony I was only commenting on the fact this host is British. I'm worn out with the US "hi guys" salutation etc their droning on for too long and their obvious advertising etc. As far as the content of any vid is concerned I never take seriously anything on you tube, unless the appropriate methodology,tool , part or products is used. This vid does not fit any of this and is for entertainment purposes only.
Thank you mr. Fletcher. I have a vauxhall zafira 1.9 cdti engine and its very lumpy on start up, and puts out a ploom of smoke in the mornings. I used carbon cleaner and took the egr apart and cleaned it. Now... wen i had that done i noticed gunge was still inside inlet manifold. I wasnt sure whether it wud be safe to put mr. Muscle in there. I now regret that i did'nt do wat you done because when i screwed everything together again and started the car next morning.. the same problem is there. So i am definately going to take courage and trust in ure methods and tecniques and go forth and redd all that shit out of this yolk! Gud man thanks for your video.
of all the ways that you can hydrolock the engine this is by far the most inventive one haha just spray the water into your intake manifold and hope for the best lol
Re sodium hydroxide: if it's very concentrated you can see bubbles coming off aluminium, but its not strong enough in Mr Muscle to damage engine aluminium components after a couple of hours.
Ive seen mr muscel used before but that guy removed the egr and carefully scraoed off excess carbon then sprayed the egr valve with it and rinsed several times....id perhaps try that ... but this method gave me the chills
Is this being sprayed into the regular air intake pipe right off the air filter box? Just to clarify because in the video it was being referred to as the EGR intake. I have a 2013 VW JSW TDI 2.0 L so it looks a little different than the engine configuration in this video. I used one can of Liqui-Moly Diesel Intake System Cleaner part # 20208 but with very minimal change in EGR performance. Code changed from insufficiient flow to valve slow to respond and then back to insufficient flow again
Yea, but thats were the problem lies, The intake manifold crusts up with carbon and because this manifold is conected to the head of the engine, the piston rings tend to wear from all the gunk up there. This causes the engine to run very non-economically due to the fact that it cant get the correct ratio of air and fuel. And when that happens, the engine management system gets the signal to pump in more diesel to keep the engine cool, thus causing more fumes which are then run through (unburned properly) the egr. .. So its a vicious cycle until the engine wears out and causes C.E.F. (catastrophic engine failure)
I've Work on diesels all my life. They are nothing but trouble when they start going wrong these days. 47 years in motor trade and never had bonnet up on my car apart from topping oil. up .
yes me too 40 years me in the trade introduced diesel cars into many northern counties and they were good long lasti ng engines Now i am totally against them -they are as you say un repairable when they go wrong
This is because everyone buys diesels now for town driving / short journeys. Diesels are motorway cars, and driving them round town every day will fuck them up.
Good on you for giving it a go but it would be better to remove the egr valve. I've used mr muscle on my egr valve and it works a treat but you dont want it going into the engine and even more so on the cat/dpf as it will strip the precious metals off them.
Here is the experiment cleaning DPF and is not affecting the inside. Maybe a strong acid but you can see a nice test on this video. th-cam.com/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/w-d-xo.html
Hmmm, it sounds enticing... Nah, there's this little voice (of reason) whispering in my ear, warning me that the extreme potential for a multi thousand dollar engine replacement nightmare far exceeds the (perceived value of) convenience in following the method shown here. Call me crazy, but I'm strongly inclined to believe that it's probably best to play it safe and invest whatever time is necessary to follow the accepted,safe and proven industry standard procedure for eliminating the internal buildup, by removing the intake manifold and egr valve so as to facilitate the thorough removal of any existing carbon and oil residue... Besides, following the accepted procedure will cost you nothing more than some time and a nominal amount of $ for Materials VS destroying a perfectly good diesel engine.
Good for turbo and manifold cause tricky job but for carb and egr you need to take it out and hold the valve up with screw driver and then spray wd40 all over and scrape all the carbon off then do this cause it crodes in just like the oven does these chemicals keep it clean when the job is done .youd have to do it every day for the rest of your life to completely clean with out screw driver scrape so hope this helps but my guide is complete fix hopefully it helps
Then, when water starts dripping from the manifold, simply crack six raw eggs directly into the air intake taking extra care to liberally coat the MAF sensor.
To all the armchair experts and keyboard warriors out there, let me just give you a real-world take on this. I have a 2009 1.8 TDCI mondeo. (No DPF). My EGR valve was stuck open so was getting no power at low revs. Engine light was on permanently Tried the "Authorised" EGR Cleaner spray last week, and it made no difference... still drove like a dog. Ran the car for a week to see if it acted gradually but no difference. £15 wasted Today I tried this method, packing the inlet with Mr Muscle and then after 30 mins, flushed it through with a fine water mist at 2000RPM. Tons of black smoke which eventually cleared, re-fitted the hose and started up... Drove for 30 miles and now it has completely cleared. it's given the engine a new lease of life. Job Done !! Worked a treat Since doing it this morning and putting 53 miles on the clock, the Engine light has gone out now, so the ECU seems happy with whats happening Would it have been any better if i-d stripped the egr valve out completely? possibly, but these are not easy to remove as access and clearance is crap. I might also have threaded, snapped or rounded a nut or bolt doing it Would it have been better to buy a new EGR valve ? probably but if your valve is gunged up, what have you got to lose?
What have you got to loose?... Maybe your engine 😂😂😂 Like yeah if the cars worth £100 sure run it on bacon fat and clean it with Mr muscle, fuck it use crisp and dry as motor oil why not, But if you have a car with any value please don't use kitchen cleaner on your engine just take it to a mechanic
You might as well put paracetamol& ibuprofen down there then add water then on uk models 1 tea bag 2 & sugars, water then add milk after.its not ok would u buy a car from someone if u new thay were putting kitchen cleener through the inlet Manifold. ♥
![[TESTED] Liqui-Moly Diesel Intake Cleaner - DOES IT WORK??](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gcP5Z2Kc7X0/mqdefault.jpg)
@Andrew K Fletcher I have just done your method and I can confirm NO MORE OVERBOOST LIMP MODE. I tweaked your method slightly. I sprayed into the air intake just after the MAF. Tried both Smart straw up and down - I preferred it down for the spray pattern. I also then had a garden sprayer (same as the Revive Turbo cleaner) which I removed the internal straw and sprayed 750ml of tap water inverted to "rinse" it through. Went for a 20 mile drive and it now feels more eager and boosting correctly throughout the RPM range. Before I did this method I put the car up on the ramps to confirm that infact the boost actuator for the turbo vanes was very stiff. For reference this was on a 2006 Skoda Octavia 140PD BKD engine code with 153k miles. Thank you again.
Say goodbye to your engine
It might feel good right now probably because you are burning a bunch of oven cleaner. But not too far down the line you either just killed your engine or made a mechanic very happy.
1 year later tell us how its going PMSL
What are you doing you header
I am sure you can (no pun ) use the thin tube in the spray top.It is the one which used to come with WD40 and other spray cans.??
As a mechanic of over 20 years I can confirm this is brilliant way to fuck up your engine
As an hobbyist mechanic I couldn't agree more. There was a full enterprise of Picard face-palm watching this.
But it works
Fellas I’m glad I see your comments u just saved my van lol 😂
@@jakecrawley1742 I used this, but there's a miss fire, but on the lucky side there's a lovely loaf on my driveway every morning.
@@MyJam1981. Putting CAUSTIC chemicals through your Engine is a BAD idea . It will absolutely eat all the Rubber Hoses etc . And quite likely damage the Anodised / Surface Treated Metal Parts too .
EGR systems are badly engineered . Built to fail basically .
I used in several cars Mercedes and Volvo, Liqui Moly 5168 pro line 400 ml, (only for Diesel engines), with very good cleaning results and great performance. It Cleans all the intake system without disassembly Turbo, EGR valve, Flaps, etc. The spray is a mix of cetone and thinner. It is applied just after MAF sensor.
The turbo, EGR and the engine performs much better after Liqui Moly 5168
I used the water method in an old 1.9tdi Passat AFN. Cured limp and went on to cover 287,000 miles over the years before I sold it. I removed the egr also and cleaned it with Mr muscle. Decarb with water has been carried out successfully for a long time.
I did it on a citroen C5 2.0 hdi. 362,000 km. the car is younger and very cheerful. thank.
I messed up.I used WD40 on my oven and it burst into flames!!
Lmao
My oven is also in limp mode now
Awesome.....
@@scottirwin2562 took me 12 hours to get the turkey home for xmas.
Got a laugh out of me bro. Haha.
Oven cleaner actually cleared my dpf on a 2008 VW PASSAT.
FUCKING BRILLIANT!
Sod the specialised cleaners for the tdi turbos!
I had 2 options scrap the car or do this ...
I empty whole can in to the turbo!
Waited 20 minutes...
Then start the car running ...
Then I emptied another can of Mr muscle Owen cleaner ....
After that I have sprayed 400ml water in to the engine ...
Engine was on 2000rpm mostly .
On short time I have increased the rpm to 3000 ....
It Fuckin done the job .
Splendid!!!!!
U r a STAR man ...
U have saved my car and 1000s ££££
I can hear the whistle on my turbo ...
No juggers on engine too...I taught my gearbox was bad ...
Nothing to do with the gearbox!
Reference Mercedes c220 cdi w203
My engine light come on the dashboard while I was doing this ....
I disconnected the battery waited 10 minutes then re connect it ...
And the light didn’t come back on😂😂😂😂😂😂
I love u 😍 !!!!!!!!!!
Still going?
Oven cleaner and hair spray are part of my tool kit for more than 20 years. :-)
For the EGR/ manifold and the such whenever possible I prefer to remove and clean on the side. But definitely oven cleaner is the major player.
BTW in case anyone wondering, the hair spray is to assemble tires. Perfect rim sealer and when fresh/wet serves as lubrication. :-)
So you been paying more since 20years when you could of used soapy water to install tires lmao!!
I’ve just done this with my beetle 1.9
I didn’t bother with the water though. I just sprayed most of the can in so it went right into the inlet manifold too.
I left it for an hour then reconnected the hose and took the car for a spin.
I kid you not I’ve left black marks down my road where all the sh1te has come out 😂
Mr Muscle oven cleaner is very good for cleaning the EGR valve but only off the vehicle!!
The reason you DO NOT do this as when the carbon deposits release themselves, they'll get chucked around the gubbins and could potentially cause more problems. The best way to do this is to take the EGR off and do it there. Whilst you're at it, might as well take the turbo off and clean all the carbon deposits off there too. Sure its not as quick, but its doing the job right. Treat these engines well and they'll do 500,000 miles without a problem.
In addition, as others have said, oven cleaner will have adverse affects on the aluminium parts of the engine. Chucking oven cleaner into the inlet just isn't a very good idea. Sure its a quick fix, but you're reducing the life of the engine just to save two hours work on a weekend.
Mr muscles bursting into the VW diesel emissions scandal
thats engine wasnt AT athats emissions scandale
Best way,take off that part and clean manual.
I find hydroblast does the trick perfectly. It's a fuel additive that works very well. It's not cheap but is easy to use.
Straight in the fuel tank. Cleans fuel lines, fuel pump and injector's which are the main cause of causing our diesel engines to clog up and slow with all of the dirt present in diesel fuel.
I did it last summer, twice. My engine works fine, 20000 miles since then, do it carefully, it will work. Do it before oil changing. VW 2006 1.9TDi BXE. Not too much water at once - remember the water lock.
With a BXE engine I'd be more concerned with a conrod peaking through your block than carbon build up
@@tiberiusclaudiusnerogermanicis excatly. Worst of the PD engine models
Great tip for clearing out the EGR valve - saves a 'dockyard job' of replacing it. Thanks for taking the time and effort to film and upload this.
Did this on both of my vw diesels each over 150k on the clock. Really shifted the muck off the egr and intake. REALLY DO WEAR GLOVES -I HAD CHEMICAL BURNS FROM THE MR MUSCLE (I should have known better.) the water spray really shifted soot. Big pile so don’t do it on a nice driveway!
Take care with this as micro pitting can result - making the aluminium surface 'sticky' and prone to picking up fresh carbon layers. Regular maintenance with Liquid Moly before oil changes is a good way to maintain the clean inlet / turbo. Regular oil changes with a good quality oil is also essential for diesels.
There is a product from Liqui Moly especially for that purpose! I used it 2times, on a 2.0TFSI 200hp and on a 2.0TDi 140Hp with success.
Where did you spray that in?
Before the turbo or the intake manifold?
I have the Liqui Moly as well as a 140HP 2.0TDI and I am a little scared to use the cleaner.
...thanks for your advice Andrew. I have used your method twice over the last 2 years and it works like a treat. What i did, I 3D printed a plug with a tight fit hole to suit WD40 straw. There is no more over spill. I usually let it sit for two hours than start engine and spray intake with water. - Engine runs freely without any hesitation. I realize that this is not a permanent fix but it solves the problem for quite while cheap and cheerful. If you need such a plug feel free to contact me. - free of charge for you. Thanks again
hello m8 if i pay you can you print me one ?
Try clilt bang! BANG and your engine is gone!
I have a 2008 seat altea xl & have changed the brake master cylinder. While doing that, I thought I'd clean the egr & asv while I'm about it as they had to come off to gain access to the brake master cylinder. I cleaned them with brake cleaner & a small brass brush & a toothbrush. Everything went back on with no problems until after about 15 miles when the emission service center warning flashed up. Plugged in my scan tool, & sure enough the P0401 egr flow insufficient code reared its ugly head. Off with the asv, & egr again & re installed using hi temp gasket sealant & back out. Same thing.I did a fault code reset both times. I reckon I must have dislodged some shite that ended up down the intake manifold when I took it apart the first time. I used your method but only as far as step one. Mine is a 1.9 tdi, so no need to go behind the maf sensor as the hose to the asv/egr /intake is on the left hand side. I used the smart straw with some pfte tape wound around so I could slide 800 mm of 3mm inside diameter clear pipe over the top. I marked on the hose with permanent marker where the far corner of the intake was, & fed the pipe in. Good shake of the can, slide the straw into the tube, proceed to foam the intake, slowly withdrawing the tube as I sprayed, as to completely get all 4 ports. Once the tube was pulled all the way out past the anti shudder valve, you could see the filth in the foam right away. I left it to work its magic for 1hour & 45 minutes, then I wiped the inlet stubb of the asv and replaced the duct. I have the clips on mine that you just pull out a small amount with a screwdriver or pliers. Put the bonnet down, said a little prayer as I have read the negative comments as well as the positives, then turned the key, and...........
Away she went! Just be ready to feed in a few revs as soon as it fires up & hold it at a steady 2000rpm for at least 20 seconds or so to make sure you don't stall the engine. You want to make sure you burn up all that liquified sheiser in the combustion chambers. I let it idle for a few minutes and then took it out for a 20 mile run on the dual carriageway. This will help to poop out any unwanted shit in the egr system. Got home and no more fault codes. This method DOES WORK! I saw no need to use water, as a good run will burn & blow all the crud anyway. I see no evidence of aluminum being eaten or seals or anything like that. You would need to soak it in a vat of the stuff for a year to do any lasting damage. As for seals? Your rubber gloves would melt would they not? Just use some common sense & save yourself some money. If you are worried about your aluminum being eaten in front of your very eyes, then you can neutralize the sodium hydroxide with vinegar. Just spray a fine mist down to intake as you would with the water technique. I saw no reason to do this myself, as I used 1/4 of a can ,if that. The foam is flammable anyway,& is just going to be burned up by the engine itself. My car is a work hack with 163000 miles on it ,so I thought I'd roll the dice, having never tried this technique before. I tweaked the method to suit my application & it worked very well. If my turbo gives me any aggravation , then it will get the same treatment as the egr system now I am confident that it works. Most of the negative comments are coming from people who have never tried this technique, as well as thinking that sodium hydroxide is an acid. It is alkaline in fact, so do a bit of research before slagging off someone for trying to help out others.
If you also did a bit of research, you would know that sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) is an alkali and a strong base and the amphoteric properties of aluminium means it dissolves in both acids and bases. Moreover, the reaction with aluminium and caustic soda produces hydrogen gas, which is somewhat explosive.
@@Weejie2011 don't make the assumption that I've not looked into this matter. Yes it will dissolve tin foil, but not an inlet manifold in an hour. I also wouldn't perform this task in my living room. Fact is I've done it, & it works. You go waste your money at the garage if you want, makes no difference to me.
@@bullenharben9905 No, it won't dissolve an inlet manifold in an hour, but it certainly can do an awful lot of alteration to the surface finish. I have used caustic soda to remove the anodised finish on bicycle parts when renovating scratched surfaces. The items can be polished and anodised again. If you have seen how rapidly the chemical works on a handlebar stem, you'll understand my point. I don't waste my money at garages. I have removed manifolds and cleaned things properly. Time consuming, but less risky. I think you are making the assumption that people are not savvy enough to be able to do the job the way it is supposed to be done.
@@Weejie2011 its a 2008 car that cost me £1500. Get off your high horse mate. Access is nigh on impossible to remove the manifold on my car, which is why I resorted to this method. Plus I didn't want to run the risk of snapping any studs where I can't even see them. I'm just saying that it works. No one is forcing you to use oven cleaner are they?
@@bullenharben9905 Can't say I've ever snapped a stud on an inlet manifold. They don't get seized up like exhaust manifold studs. The first car I had that needed cleaning out cost me £150. 2005 Astra, 3 years ago, so much the same age as yours is now. The seller had tried changing the sensor etc to try and get life back into the car but gave up and sold it cheap. All the more reason to spend time on it. Right enough, nobody is forcing me to use oven cleaner, but you should perhaps wear a pinny while you use it. It works better with one. Marigold gloves, too.
To clean your engine real good, you must insert some Scotch-Brite(tm) sponges into that hole and make sure to push it down with a stick. At least 5 sponges needed to clean thoroughly .
Don’t be silly ! It’s a 4 cylinder so you only need 4 scotch brite sponges 😂😂
@@ckjlgp Good math , keep up the good work 😂
Ondan sonra engine runs like düldül
Brilliant! We have been doing this to our tractors on our farm for 25 years!
Oven cleaner of most types does degrade the carbon composites, grabs and binds to it, and the first few minutes of the engine running blows out the exhaust.
The only problem is it burns like fuck when it hits skin. But as we have expendable farm workers, and can replace them (or hide there bodies as we often do) whenever the next moron shows his face at our door!
Our local diesel fitter says it has absolutely no effect or damage to the engine.
Done it on my transit van when it started losing power.
Now its up to full power and happily cutting up innocent motorists on the M40!
Yeehaaa, you middle lane mother fucking road hogs!!!
diagoros melos haha a man after my own heart, I say to my labourers if they hurt themselves I will kick them to the kerb for someone else to sort out.
You got land to bury them in, We have to find a job that needs lots of concrete 🤣
diagoros melos I think you will have to look a little closer to home to find a dolt , we only like farmland for one thing & one thing only , O'Donnell Abu
😂😂😂
Watched the full video and thought fantastic I'll go and do that now 👌... luckily I read comments ...don't think I'll bother now 😭
clever lad. just as fortunate that you've read the comments. if you knew how an engine actually works from the inner side of the block you wouldn't put anything like that nowhere near your engine.....use it on components taken off the car prior to treating them - yes, but spraying it inside the engine ...mhm, I do hope you know a good mechanic or at least have a few phone numbers of salvage yards at hand :)
And the legend says the car got so addicted to mr muscle the man had to do this everyday ...
Lol
Was waiting for a loud BANG ; )
very surprised there wasn't, spraying any liquid especially water into an engine, particularly a diesel engine is going to cause hydrolocking & has potential to cause serious internal damage
Mr muscle also cleans wheels with the worst brake dust staining you can imagine! Spray on and leave for 15 mins, then get a scotch brite pad and it will lift off with some gentle rubbing and rinsing. Without mr muscle I would have scrubbed for 3 hrs to get it done.
His wife is thinking, it'll work better on the oven darling!!🙄
The only time I marry oven foam cleaner and a car is to clean alloy wheels that have years of brake dust. I'd not necessarily do it to a new car but it worked a treat on a 15 year old golf. Also cleaned the callipers up a treat. So much so that I cleaned the brakes and wheels on my Daf Lf45 and after being marked as an "advisory" on the previous MOT, this last one it didn't flag up. I only do a few 100 miles a year so they over corrode. There is no way in hell I'd spray it anywhere under the bonnet though, F that!
did mine at the turbo out end. sprayed in and let it sit for 2 hours whilst freeing up actuator. this was a year ago now. hardly any smoke now and car pulls better at mid range. What was your long term results as good to know and give confidence to others - VW Bora 220000 miles
Serious dude water and oven cleaner
That's next level
for some reason my exhaust now smells like I'm baking lasagne :)
I think most people are missing the point. The cars only worth a few hundred quid . And to remove the carbon build up by removing all the components and cleaning and installing with new gaskets not forgetting the labour costs. Would render the car worthless. As it probably only has a year or so left in it. It’s probably a cost effective way of fixing his problem. The older diesel motor is well capable of running a little MR Muscle through it without any ill effect whatsoever
But why the cold side? Shouldn't he be using the stuff on the hot side only? There shouldn't even be any carbon on the cold side. It'd all start from the pistons only, then out to the exhaust, right?
@@Blue-Lady if you splay an oven cleaner on hot metal and inhale enough off the toxic fumes it can literally kill you on the spot! think!
@@IPDeliev Don't be silly. ;
@@Blue-Lady All engines from at least early 90's usually have some kind of EGR valve. The blowby from the crankcase doesn't go straight out in the air like a tractor for example. That means you get air and also a bit oil from the blowby to come back in to the engine. You'd be surprised if you open up a intake manifold on a diesel car whit lot of miles on it. The intake look terrible whit a thick layer of burnt oil almost like a mass of rubber and that's what messes the egr-valve up. If the blowby was alowed to got straight out the engine would breathe only fresh air and this kind of problems would never occur but this is all environment associated.
@@MrJokkoma Hey Mr Jokkoma, that's interesting info, I thought EGR valves were more modern. I'll have a look-see at what I can find. I'm riding a Triton from 1995 just FYI, an MJ Dualcab Diesel.
Please never do this to your car. Oven cleaner is incredibly caustic and will harm the aluminum internals. You're also introducing this into your turbo, exhaust and DPF. This is not meant to go into your car...ever.
So apparently it will dissolve an engine but stomach is going to be fine after oven has been treated with this stuff..
@@franceuxleseuf5928 why when you soray your oven with that foam you start cooking and eating the rest of the foam?
Not all oven cleaner has lye which is bad for aluminium. There is aluminium safe oven cleaner but there are also other good carbon cleaners
Mr Muscle LOVES aluminium yum yum yum
Two.. Three hours does nothing bad.
Update, car still runing like a dream, seldom getting limp mode and doing 45 mpg on motorway. Automatic. so must be burning more air now so will repeat soon
fool !
glyn dennis your mum is!
This guy is a weapon
:D
Can you show your registration plate , so I know not to buy that motor 😁
what do you think they do at main dealerships then when cleaning the egr ? do you seriously think they take it off and soak it ha aha ah
@@philldownes8685 I can safely say that they dont put Mr.Muscle oven cleaner into it...
@@philldownes8685 they dont even waste time cleaning it.
They replace it and charge it on the bill...you think dealers have time for this lmao!they dont rebuild engines and transmissions either!this is why techs at dealers know mostly how to bolt new parts in...but know nothing about overhauling.
In this time you will easily remove egr and do it properly...
I just get a bath bomb from lush and drop it in the fuel tank. ...everything is nice and clean and smells lovely. ..glitter shoots out of my exhaust as well!.....which is a nice touch
Worked perfectly in a touran 1.9 tdi power restored,much more responsive after took the soot out of the exhaust , i did 15 miles after overreved in 3000 rpm hope it will last
Thanks for your feedback Radu, very much appreciated
Was it a 1.9 pd 105 engine think of doing mine with mr muscle but down the egr pipe on the manifold
I have a Toyota 3rd gen Prius. I used an extra reach 12 mm racheting wrench for the three Nuts in the back and had a hard time reaching the 4th HIDDEN 12 mm nut underneath the EGR cooler. Used a Torx E8 socket for the two Bolts ( in the back of EGR cooler) and we finally freed the EGR assembly. Good video
Can those strong solvents affect the oil's ability to lubricate the cylinder walls while doing this decarbonizing? Is there a change in oil color after doing this? Do any of these chemicals hurt the sensors? Is the catalytic converter affected by any of the harsh solvents present in the cleaner?
I love this! I'm currently running my motor on 10w40 crisp n dry with a sunflower oil additive, I threw a potato into my turbo yesterday and i got perfectly cooked fries out the exhaust 👍 washed to turbo out with some sarsons vinegar, engines running sweet as a nut
He's going to show us, how to run Electric cars with Elastic bands soon....
If this was used to clean the EXHAUST side of the turbo, I would probably say "yeah, okay maybe", but since you are putting it in the egr, thus in the inlet... "Yeah, no".
EXACTLY what I was thinking.thank you very much
@Mr Donkey basically, the engine is sucking in mr proper into the combustion chamber.
Was this a how not to tutorial?
Today i used this methode in my Audi A2 1,2 TDI . IT does work very wel. I wil try IT after 10 k km again. Thanks man!
Your a brave man
@@andrewmason8844 or a tight one
I am doing the Mr Muscle treatment tomorrow but defo not through the engine !
I am taking off the egr pipe from hot side of the turbo sraying in there and almost continuously moving the actuator arm over a couple of hours.
Once all back together a few revs at 3k and job done !
I have blanked my egr valve so no worry of if recirculating the cleaner.
Bmw e90 320d m sport no boost under 2k at low speed.
Did it work?
@@AndersMcTee no it didn't do a thing !
I have since taken the turbo out and opened it up.
Look on my videos, I've only got 3 lol
@@snatchwars Hi where are the videos
@@grahamscott1191 no video.
It turned out the turbo was kaput !
the actual job takes 6-7h for experienced person (8h for amateur with a good tutorial) to remove all the parts (intake and turbo) and clean, there is no other permanent way.
you have sprayed alkaloid on aluminium manifold and inside engine head:))) Then you have sprayed water from sprayer risking hydrolocking, brave! Thank you my friend!! Thanks to you and your video I have more people coming to my garage and paying double or triple for the job heh:)
This was 4 years ago...
Do you still have the car,,??
Seen this done a few times,,,
Never a 2nd follow up video...!!
This is by far the most rash thing i have ever layed my eyes on
Scott Magowan
Just don’t get that shit in ya eyes “if you tried it” 😳
I done this on my Ford galaxy tdi which is same pd engine and worked perfectly with no problems 8 months later👍
Thanks for your feedback Lee
You may not see the damage in that time. Be aware your engine may need to be changed in a few years. Way shorter than the lifespan is should have
@@theopinionatedgamer9847 so much lies 🤣 I have done this for years. 1st time.i did it was on my bora and I sold it when it hit 400k miles
All the people in the comments section saying this is a bad idea are ALL mechanics who want to charge £200
Thank you for this smile 😊
I took the manifold egr valve apart and cleaned them in my parts cleaner couldn't take the chance on my Audi a6 it has 250.000 on it still going strong all about the services and good oil cheap shite doesn't win the race
Jim Goose Cheap shite isn’t worth a toss. Go premium mate🤠✌🏻
hey i got an audi a6 2002 3.0 non turbo with 170,000 miles on it, my egr codes came on and im convinced it's the egr. the shop wants 150 to clean it out but they seem like they don't want to do the job. is there a way i can clean it without removing it besides the way in this video?
@@Westcoastmickey not properly
I used toilet cleaner instead and it got rid of the crap. The advantage is the lovely pine smell.
I actually thought for a second he was spraying mr muscle into the inlet manifold !!
He was
@@sarahjayne4904 then sprayed water in it!!!
I've used mr. MUSCLE too for my turbo to clean and it runs much better after several treatments
Brilliant! Proof the British do comedy better than anyone else
How refreshing, a British car video.
Too many US on TH-cam.
If this represents British attitude to car repairs then I am ashamed to be British. This method is a joke, EGR removal takes minutes. This clown is spraying oven cleaner into his engine and also expecting the engine to safely pass chunks of carbon through it. Does he also suggest removing the air filter in other videos?
@@FatterTony I was only commenting on the fact this host is British.
I'm worn out with the US "hi guys" salutation etc their droning on for too long and their obvious advertising etc.
As far as the content of any vid is concerned I never take seriously anything on you tube, unless the appropriate methodology,tool , part or products is used.
This vid does not fit any of this and is for entertainment purposes only.
Thank you mr. Fletcher. I have a vauxhall zafira 1.9 cdti engine and its very lumpy on start up, and puts out a ploom of smoke in the mornings. I used carbon cleaner and took the egr apart and cleaned it. Now... wen i had that done i noticed gunge was still inside inlet manifold. I wasnt sure whether it wud be safe to put mr. Muscle in there. I now regret that i did'nt do wat you done because when i screwed everything together again and started the car next morning.. the same problem is there. So i am definately going to take courage and trust in ure methods and tecniques and go forth and redd all that shit out of this yolk! Gud man thanks for your video.
Just brilliant, much appreciated from Lismore NSW Australia
uah if you're his local mechanic when he screws the engine
@@MrPilcher1 not going to happen.
of all the ways that you can hydrolock the engine this is by far the most inventive one haha just spray the water into your intake manifold and hope for the best lol
Yep done this over a year ago.. no problems at all since...
Re sodium hydroxide: if it's very concentrated you can see bubbles coming off aluminium, but its not strong enough in Mr Muscle to damage engine aluminium components after a couple of hours.
After cleaning my EGR Valve and intake manifold with oven cleaner it did leave white spots but got them out with a good polish.
Try sand blasting it with the engine running. That should do the trick.
I used iron filings in my shot blaster, did it while engine was running too. Lovely clean haze came out the back.
@@monkehbitch After surface blasting kindly apply zinc epoxy primer within 4hours 😁😁😁
Good video hope it helps me husband as he is getting a vw golf tdi 07 1.9 the turbo is a bit slow uk here
Ive seen mr muscel used before but that guy removed the egr and carefully scraoed off excess carbon then sprayed the egr valve with it and rinsed several times....id perhaps try that ... but this method gave me the chills
This is simply fascinating. Thanks for sharing,will save me lots of money. Cheers ! Patrick from California
Braver man than me.......I'd have a spare engine standing by.
This is the best video I watched today... Thanks alot for your help 😁
I will not be putting oven cleaner in a aluminum block OR head anytime soon.
Mark Weaver Why not ? All the mechanics recommended you do a mr muscle treatment every three months 🙊😂
Sorry Andrew . VERY BAD IDEA . How did all the Rubber Hoses go , after that ?
BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!💥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Is this being sprayed into the regular air intake pipe right off the air filter box? Just to clarify because in the video it was being referred to as the EGR intake. I have a 2013 VW JSW TDI 2.0 L so it looks a little different than the engine configuration in this video. I used one can of Liqui-Moly Diesel Intake System Cleaner part # 20208 but with very minimal change in EGR performance. Code changed from insufficiient flow to valve slow to respond and then back to insufficient flow again
EGR EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION valve, he is treating the intake manifold not the turbo side of the exhaust that feeds EXHAUST fumes into the maifold.
Yea, but thats were the problem lies, The intake manifold crusts up with carbon and because this manifold is conected to the head of the engine, the piston rings tend to wear from all the gunk up there. This causes the engine to run very non-economically due to the fact that it cant get the correct ratio of air and fuel. And when that happens, the engine management system gets the signal to pump in more diesel to keep the engine cool, thus causing more fumes which are then run through (unburned properly) the egr. .. So its a vicious cycle until the engine wears out and causes C.E.F. (catastrophic engine failure)
His car was last seen competing in the arnold classic.
Mr muscle in the air intake and then a bottle of fairy liquid into the fuel tank. Wash the seats with bleach for the final touch 👍🏼
This reminds me of the billboard erected by project mayhem in Fight Club...
Did you know old engine oil can be used as fertiliser?
I've Work on diesels all my life. They are nothing but trouble when they start going wrong these days. 47 years in motor trade and never had bonnet up on my car apart from topping oil. up .
yes me too 40 years me in the trade introduced diesel cars into many northern counties and they were good long lasti ng engines Now i am totally against them -they are as you say un repairable when they go wrong
This is because everyone buys diesels now for town driving / short journeys. Diesels are motorway cars, and driving them round town every day will fuck them up.
Guess why thoses modern engines doesnt last long? They keeping you have a job. Its all about the money. Economics.
Use this method myself👍always works n save £££ ti. E n efforts plus ur motor appreciate s the decarbon flush out n makes ya motor breath more easy🤔👍🙏
All the dirt will go into the engine and from there into the oxygen sensors, the catalytic converter.....not a good idea .
How will it go into the engine..?
@@Blue-Lady seriously?
you have no idea what your talking about.
All the gunk is still in there. Don't think this good....then a second treatment. I wonder if this vehicle is alive still??
o2 sensors and catalytic on a diesel? ROFL, you really have no idea what you are talking about
Perfect F up to the engine
Good on you for giving it a go but it would be better to remove the egr valve. I've used mr muscle on my egr valve and it works a treat but you dont want it going into the engine and even more so on the cat/dpf as it will strip the precious metals off them.
Here is the experiment cleaning DPF and is not affecting the inside. Maybe a strong acid but you can see a nice test on this video.
th-cam.com/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/w-d-xo.html
Those metals are extremely resistant to corrosion
Hmmm, it sounds enticing... Nah, there's this little voice (of reason) whispering in my ear, warning me that the extreme potential for a multi thousand dollar engine replacement nightmare far exceeds the (perceived value of) convenience in following the method shown here. Call me crazy, but I'm strongly inclined to believe that it's probably best to play it safe and invest whatever time is necessary to follow the accepted,safe and proven industry standard procedure for eliminating the internal buildup, by removing the intake manifold and egr valve so as to facilitate the thorough removal of any existing carbon and oil residue... Besides, following the accepted procedure will cost you nothing more than some time and a nominal amount of $ for Materials VS destroying a perfectly good diesel engine.
Said Eugene from The Walking Dead.
🤣🤣🤣
I think oven cleaner may destroy gaskets, o-rings & seals, I could be wrong but please definitely wear long rubber gloves & eye protection.
Good for turbo and manifold cause tricky job but for carb and egr you need to take it out and hold the valve up with screw driver and then spray wd40 all over and scrape all the carbon off then do this cause it crodes in just like the oven does these chemicals keep it clean when the job is done .youd have to do it every day for the rest of your life to completely clean with out screw driver scrape so hope this helps but my guide is complete fix hopefully it helps
Then, when water starts dripping from the manifold, simply crack six raw eggs directly into the air intake taking extra care to liberally coat the MAF sensor.
Lol.
Except this is after the mass air flow sensor, not before it.
Free Range or Cuckoo eggs??
Lol
What about people that have a MAP sensor in the manifold. I bet it would cause problems with it.
@k halliday hope this is a joke!
@@upnorthviking823 won't surprise me if he wasn't
When you sprayed it started to smell by me!
Don't do that at home hahahaha! Disassemble EGR, intake manifold and turbo in workshop and clean by ultrasound
Piss also works befor takining it for a drive through river
To all the armchair experts and keyboard warriors out there, let me just give you a real-world take on this. I have a 2009 1.8 TDCI mondeo. (No DPF). My EGR valve was stuck open so was getting no power at low revs. Engine light was on permanently Tried the "Authorised" EGR Cleaner spray last week, and it made no difference... still drove like a dog. Ran the car for a week to see if it acted gradually but no difference. £15 wasted
Today I tried this method, packing the inlet with Mr Muscle and then after 30 mins, flushed it through with a fine water mist at 2000RPM. Tons of black smoke which eventually cleared, re-fitted the hose and started up... Drove for 30 miles and now it has completely cleared. it's given the engine a new lease of life.
Job Done !! Worked a treat
Since doing it this morning and putting 53 miles on the clock, the Engine light has gone out now, so the ECU seems happy with whats happening
Would it have been any better if i-d stripped the egr valve out completely? possibly, but these are not easy to remove as access and clearance is crap. I might also have threaded, snapped or rounded a nut or bolt doing it
Would it have been better to buy a new EGR valve ? probably but if your valve is gunged up, what have you got to lose?
What have you got to loose?...
Maybe your engine 😂😂😂
Like yeah if the cars worth £100 sure run it on bacon fat and clean it with Mr muscle, fuck it use crisp and dry as motor oil why not,
But if you have a car with any value please don't use kitchen cleaner on your engine just take it to a mechanic
I couldn’t believe my eyes . How this fella got away with this . Wow
the very reason ovens dont ever go into limp mode.
😂😂
Excellent great video 👌👍
I might use some Pine O'Clean to freshen it up.
Any recommendations on Toyota Yaris petrol please shall I take out the oxygen sensor and spray directly on catalytic converter
You might as well put paracetamol& ibuprofen down there then add water then on uk models 1 tea bag 2 & sugars, water then add milk after.its not ok would u buy a car from someone if u new thay were putting kitchen cleener through the inlet Manifold. ♥
LMAO 😂😅 you forgot the cream scone on the UK model....tea with a scone! By Jove, that's just not cricket old boy!
A packet of custard creams😛
Haha marvellous 😂👍🏻
Make sure only 2 of each every 4 hours and no more than 8 in a 24 hour period or you risk major engine damage
Im British and I don't drink tea! I see the picture though