Really interested to see where this ends. I had a 2017 F150 with 5.0 motor. At about 35k miles it started doing this thing where it randomly felt like it was about to stall when coming to a stop at a red light after driving for a while. It would dip down to about 200 rpm and then recover. Eventually it happened more frequently and finally stalled on me in traffic. All the research I did ended up pointing to the timing system. If you were lucky it was a VCT solenoid. If you were unlucky it was a cam phaser. My warranty was about to run up so I traded it in on a 4Runner. I really loved that truck but was at my wits end with it. Sometimes I miss it but then see videos like this that remind me I probably made the right decision.
Could it be the potentiometer on the accelerator pedal which drive the electronic throttle body ?? It seems like everyone including the dealer is missing this .
2016 5.0, same symptoms, replaced the phazer actuator and problem gone for months, almost 6 months. I found as soon as I touched the phazer plug, I could not duplicate issue, I replaced the phazer actuator, snugged up the connectors slightly in the plug on the harness, and he has been driving it for months. And it was pretty frequent when I first got the vehicle. Mine was drivers side intake cam, but I did both on that side right away. Good luck guys! And my oil pressure was around 10 psi also, which at first I was concerned about, but apparently that wasn't the issue.
I think your on the right track with scoping the cam and crank. I could see a cam phaser acting up. As someone else stated above, ford did change their oil pressure spec. I would say 13 and under is a issue and should be addressed. If I was in your shoes I would do the same thing. If by chance everything check out I would make sure I wasn't losing fuel. If that checked out I was thinking a valve hanging up or a some issue but I highly doubt it for the fact it stalls. A cylinder missing on a v8 isn't going to stall. I'm leaning more towards timing issues like a phaser. Sometimes you have to stick with the basics. Make sure fuel and ignition doesn't drop out. Then make sure cam and crank signals aren't dropping. Last check cam crank correlation as you monitor the phaser control. I'm surprised your not setting any codes.
Thank you! Lots of great information. I’m going to see if I can schedule this one in for an extended period of time. Seems this one isn’t the only one out there experiencing this issue. Even if I gotta eat the cost unless resolved. I’m willing to take on that challenge. Especially now that I know how much support I have behind me..
Is the throttle position sensor within the body itself? I just bought a used 2016 f150 with 146k and it's stalling at idle also. Especially when the AC is running and having more of a load on the engine.
I had my 2016 5.0 act up for over a year. Dealer changed vct and cam phasers inside engine.To throw a code at rough idle may take a few months. In drive apply brake and release and let vehicle roll repeat. Ac on may help lower idle. The stall usually happens when foot is removed from the brake at a stop .Mine only would stall after 45mins or longer drive occasionally in the beginning. Also the older the oil the worse it gets. My truck was not my daily driver and sat most of the week. Also i was told vct screens can be plugged in top of engine . (Easy to clean) ......not sure if any of this helps...... it has stall one time since dealer "fixed" it .
hey youtube keepsz puttin g pop up cmmercials disrujopting the video, and they put the x button so small that it open s the ad, ima tell every youtuber i watch just so you k now who can i complain to. glad to see your back Mr. Robinson
My 2017 started having the same issue over the weekend while on a trip. Truck would start running rough and stall out. Both times running around 70. Would run rough the next few start ups, then would run fine the rest of the trip. Would love to hear what the outcome was for this issue.
I have a 2016 F150 5.0 and have battling this problem for the past year or two, took it to Ford once when I still had warranty and they replaced the MAP sensor it then was good for a few months until the problem came back, would clean throttle body, air filter, new spark plugs and it’ll be okay for a month or two until problem would come back, so frustrating because there is no engine light and does it when it wants too. Usually when I’m idle and goes under 500rpm it stalls out.
In part one someone else theorized that Ford might have a low oil pressure cutoff. Simulate low oil pressure to see if engine shuts off? This could be done several ways. Just out of curiosity, what would happen if you unplugged the oil pressure sensor while the engine is idling? I don’t know if low oil pressure will kill the engine in the PCM. It would be nice to eliminate this as a possible cause? Ultimately you’ll need to confirm actual low oil pressure with a separate pressure gage if only to catch a more serious cause that would result in catastrophic engine failure.
I have a computing background, I think the oil pressure drops below 10 and the computer stalls the spark. There probably isn't a code for it. I agree with the above poster that the oil system is clogged and causing it to fail safe to prevent engine damage. Physics do not change and that OP is way too low.
i believe what you say about the low pressure cut off. cold the engine is fine, drive it 10 miles and at an idle a lot of times it shuts off, if i hold it just above an idle it is ok. new oil pump was installed earlier. had a misfire which dragged the idle blow 500 and it shut off and oil pressure guage went to zero like it was cut off,
I have a 2015 with the same issues!! I have tried EVERYTHING except the cam position sensors and cam phasers. Certain fixes would work for a few weeks and then the same issue came right back with different OBDII codes! I have had cats replaced after a p0430 code, replaced o2 sensors (4) with the cats. Replaced the evap valve, new injectors, new fuel pressure regulator, new plugs coils and coils, new evap canister, etc… and it all started with a p0012 code…. I changed the oil and the code went away but continued to burn excess fuel and want to stall at stops.
We have a 2015 F-150 Lariat that has been having this issue for quite awhile. When it throws codes get P0022 and P06DD, even right after oil change. Is really bad this time as has stalled 8-10 times in one hour. Mechanic said fix was to replace the engine which we aren't doing. Truck has 196,000 miles on it. Has anyone found the real cause of this issue?
Oil pick up tube is probably about 65% clogged this is very common especially for those who follow the idiot light for Oil changes. As for the stalling issue, if your trying to recreate the issue then you need to properly diagnose it by performing actual real life scenarios meaning you need to put the transmission in drive and then proceed to do normal operation, while under a load or in gear at a stop especially after the engines already reached operational temp only then will you successfully recreate the issue to give you the data you're looking for. I'll just spill the beans and spoil the fun right now tho. These 5.0 engines need new oil every 3k period. The entire system heavily relies on proper oil pressure and viscosity. How do I know you might ask? Am I a mechanic and just have the experience or am I just an overly ambitious Ford enthusiast and owner... if you went with ambitious Ford enthusiast and owner then you'd be correct. Although I am an ASE certified mechanic as well I do not work on vehicles for a living I just have a passion for it and especially when it comes to Ford. In my opinion and experience, running 8oz can of seafoam in your crank case just before your oil change (about 10 miles is sufficient) to get all the Funk down to the pan and dropping the pan to inspect for debris on the oil pick up tube screen and clean it off very thoroughly as well as inspecting for other foreign debris from things like worn timing chain guide shards. One you've visibly inspected and cleaned out the pan and pick up tube,reinstall with proper gaskets and put your new oil in. If no clogged or damage to the cam phasers then you should be good to go! Purge valve can also cause the stalling at stop or even idle but the oil pick up tube being partially or almost fully clogged is the main culprit for your loss of oil pressure at idle as well as stalling and if not addressed will cause failure of cam solenoids as well as phasers and timing chains ect. Change your oil every 3k no matter what vehicle make or model and fork prevent the damages. In this trucks case I'm fairly certain that you can do everything to put a temp fix to the problem but until you pull that pan and clean that screen the problem will only come back time and time again until the rest of the timing system starts to break down and fail. My current 2016 f150 5.0 is experiencing the same problem but in a later stage of the issue as it was used when I bought it with 130k. In my case I'm replacing all 4 phasers, solenoids all chains, guides, tensioners ect. Basically the entire timing system. I bought it with this issue at 130k and I'm currently at 182k. Other than the annoyance it doesn't affect my daily life to much but the fuel economy went from around 20-22mpg down to 13.5mpg over the course of daily driving another 50+k with known issues. I changed oil every 3k and it hasn't let me down yet! Number one thing I've learned while owning the 5.0 is oil cleanliness and viscosity have to be spot on. Any slack will cause premature failure of very expensive parts. Also low coolant will cause issues. Make sure there's absolutely no leak. Hope this helps! Good luck!
I just wanted to add onto this..I posted on the previous video he put up to start talking about this issue. I had this issue early (around 45k-50k miles) and suffered through it for years. Tried several minor things and finally got the advice to switch to all genuine synthetic blend motorcraft oil AND motorcraft filter and was advised to change oil more frequently (roughly every 3-4K miles I was advised). I started doing that about a year and a half-two years ago and it was around 80k. I’m now around 110k and not had even one sliver of rough idle since. I’ve also had one or two oil changes since where I couldn’t get around to it until maybe 4500 miles to change and still had no issues. But to conclude, using motorcraft synthetic blend and motorcraft filter and changing oil a little quicker has completely solved my issue so I agree with your statement
@Scundoor Sup if the truck in question is say a year old and has 15-20k miles and o only ever used Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend them I would stick to that because it is a recommendation from Ford specifically because of the viscosity needs. I myself, however, have used AMSOIL signature series full synthetic 5w20 in my engine, and it not only runs better in my opinion but has far better gas mileage @ 24mpg highway trips, and 22mpg average in town stop and go. But I am a huge AMSOIL fan and I believe they have the best or superior product when it comes to engine fluids. That is my opinion though. Even run it in the 2.7 and 3.5 and they've never had an issue both pull 24mpg average with 185k.
im pretty sure if you un plug the vct on the valve cover itll go into fail safe and if the problem goes away its one of thos, also to me sounds like the electronic throttle body needs to be relearned theres a procedure, also thos long and short term fuel trims arnt that great id put another mass air flow sensor in it and purge valve they go bad so easy and can cause very wierd problems
My friends 5.4 started doing this and shooting fire balls out the tail pipe. Take 12v on gator clips, pull plug on cam phaser and give it 12v reversing polarity. Worked like a charm. Truck fired up fixed. My 17 5.0 has 160000km on itand its done this to me 3 times. Need time to check it out better. But 12v gator clip worked like a charm on 5.4.
Wonder if anyone came up with a resolution? I've got a 2016 5.0 that is doing the exact same thing. It's to the point that I put one foot on the brake and the other foot on the gas pedal to keep the RPMs a bit over 600 when I'm at a stop, or more often than not it will stumble over and over, and sometimes eventually die.
Same, I’m about to do phasers, chains, vcts,and mabee oil pump , gonna be expensive but can’t afford to trade it in with prices being outrageous right now
@@jeremyruss2407 hey man, check Allí Cat’s comment as well as my response in these comments. I have a possible solution that worked for me. Have had no rough idle/stalling in a year and a half-two years and before I was having rough idle all the time
Just for information - The specification from Ford, for the hot idle Oil Pressure, used to be 25 PSI but Ford changed it to 15 PSI minimum. 1) What could be happening, regarding the engine dying at idle (such as when coming to a stop sign) is a sticking CAM VCT Valve/Valves. A test that might tell you if this is the case is to unplug both CAM VCT Valves electrical connectors (2-Pin connector on the front of each CAM), and then take it for a test drive. It should run fine and not have the engine stop running at a stop sign, or other hot idle case. May not have full power when unplugged. If then you plug them back in and go for another test drive and the problem comes back, this is an indicator that one or both of the CAM VCT valves are sticking due to slug (if it has higher millage, I don't remember if you gave the millage or not, also if Oil hasn't been changed as it should). It looked like from the captures you got, that it could be CAM VCT valve on Bank 2. Note that this can cause a issue at any RPM/Speed, not just idle. 2) Another possibility, especially if there is also a starting issue, is that the fuel pump fuse has gotten hot and melted some, causing poor electrical connection to the fuel pump thus causing the fuel pump to stop working until the fuse cools. There is a fuse changing location kit from Ford for this fuse (if this vehicle has this issue, possibly fuse 27) for about $35.00, or so. Apparently, because of the location of this fuse, it is getting to hot and melting, causing poor electrical conductivity in powering the fuel pump. This could cause all sorts of engine performance issues. 3) When you are trying to reproduce the issue, at idle scope connected, try tapping on the MAF sensor. See if doing so affects the idle RPMs, and thus the idle Oil Pressure. You could also monitor the MAF sensor with the scanner, or scope (scope may be better) while doing this. If it does, try cleaning the MAF with the appropriate cleaner. Note that if you could get it failing at idle and tapping on the MAF raises the RPM and causes the issue to go away, it could be a good indicator that the MAF is dirty or faulty. 4) I do not know if this is necessary or not, but after cleaning the throttle body you might have to do a idle reset/relearn, or something to that affect, to get the idle RPMs back to normal. Or, driving it enough with highway and city driving should also get the idle back down to normal. 5) Oil Pressure sensor could be bad. If it has Oil on top of it, on the electrical connector portion of it, that is an indication that the sensor has a problem. Changing the sensor may or may NOT help with this issue. If it incorrectly reports the Oil Pressure lower than it is, this may cause the ECU to shut the engine off to protect it. I believe your idea that the issue is caused by one of the CAM sensors, might be on the right track (probably Bank 2). I think that it would be good to first determine if the issue is caused by a CAM VCT valve or something else (such as a dirty/faulty MAF, Fuel Pump, sticking EGR valve, etc.) If you do believe it is a problem with one of the CAM VCT valves, you need to know if the valve is sticking (due to slug), or if it is not engaging due to low idle RPMs and low Oil Pressure. After thinking about it, I do not think the low Oil Pressure not engaging the CAM VCTs is the cause of the issue, because these valves should be a 0 (not engaged) at hot idle, I think. I cannot be 100% sure of this. Low RPMs, of course, would cause the engine to stop. If one of these valves is stuck on or partly on, that could cause the shutting off at hot idle. You could also have more than one problem causing these issues. Maybe one of these suggestions may be helpful.
Thank you for all this great info! I’ll read into it more in the morning. This has vct on both intake and exhaust. There’s No EGR valve per say on this setup.. I believe the cam sensors are good, I’m leaning heavily on a cam phaser issue. If I can prove out that 10-15 psi oil pressure is ok. I would go for it.. but not knowing I’m a little hesitant on just replacing parts
@@robinsonsauto Thank you for responding to my comments. I know you probably know pretty much all I suggested, but you asked for suggestions, so I provided what I could think of. Yes, I know it has both exhaust and intake VCTs, but I figured you already ruled out the exhaust. The EGR is my mistake. I somethings think one thing and say or write another. I meant Purge valve, or whatever Ford might call it on this truck.I see you have ruled out the CAM Sensors also. All I would say about the CAM Phasers is that if the problem with one of them is mechanical, they very often make noise as well. As to the Oil pressure, I suspect if you asked Ford that question they would probably say 15PSI is the minimum. I am just guessing here and cannot say for sure. I am sure you know, depending on the mileage and maintenance the truck has had, that the engine may just be worn out. But I understand your concern regarding the Oil pressure and changing parts, and I would have the same concern. A tough decision to make. Very interesting issue here, and very good video. Thanks for your effort making these videos.It really is appreciated.
@@TheOmegaman69 absolutely, I could follow every thought and your process is spot on and very logical! Sorry I was half asleep last night and wanted to respond more. These 10hr days lately are taking a toll. I truly appreciate your write up and this is going to help many people. I will be referring back to this for sure when it comes back around. I’m not 100% sure how Ford is controlling the exhaust gas. From some of the theory of operations it appears they retard the exhaust cams? These are independent as well it seems? separate chains, oil tensioners and what not.. guess that’s where some of my worry revolves around. I’m most likely wrong 😅 that’s why Im here humbly reaching out to you guys. Because of great people like yourself, that are willing to help when someone is in need.. I’m thankful
I don't know enough about these to offer any useful advice. With low oil pressure possibly causing phasor malfunction, it sounds like a chicken and egg problem, tricky to sort out the main cause. One author here on TH-cam who specializes on Ford vehicles is FordTechMakuloco. He may be able to offer friendly advice, if he has time.
Replace the bank 2 intake VCT solenoid (br3z6m280e). Fairly common failure, assuming the inside of the engine is clean. You have to pull the valve cover to replace that anyway.
Same here 19 5.0 and had oil consumption and started stalling at about 27K miles on it. Taking it in to the dealership in 2 weeks. Hope I get a solution.
@@tonypena818 @L J y’all check Allí Cat and my comment in this comment section. Had the same issue and have a possible solution that has fixed my issue. Have not had rough idle/stalling in a year and a half-two years ago
I know what your thinking 💭I have the same truck, mine isn’t as pretty though. In a ditch effort I swapped the purge valve Since yes.. I have have had many failed purge valves come through.. we can try a third 🤷♂️ my truck hasn’t stalled yet though
Oil pressure @ idle with engine at normal operating temperature 10-15 psi (69-103 kPa) Oil pressure @ 2,000 rpm with engine at normal operating temperature 30-40 psi (207-276 kPa)
@@josephkober3734 dont remember what this problem was. car i worked on had a hunting idle, couldn't track it down, or hadn't finshed looking, anyway when changing timing belt put a new phaser on as a matter of corse and idle was perfect purr
Hell I have a 2017 I just picked up with 180 metric k. It runs beautiful coming from a 2007 overserviced it ran great but getting rusty and ugly my son loves it gave it to him. My issue I just heard tonight is the 5.0 has a stalling issue that my neighbour has his a 2016 he researched the best years of the F150 mine in the same timeline what causes this I do not have this problem now but in recent cases it could become a issue. All auto issues show themselves over time this one will will be solved just seeing what the fix is.
My 2015 5.0 didn't have the problem until I took it to the dealer for its 100k major service interval. The it started so I took it back and after a day or two they couldn't offer any insights. A scan of the Internet shows thousands of F150 owners, before and after 2015, with the same issue. I several folks have pointed out you could spend several grand replacing various sensors and still not have it fixed. After many months of dealing with the issue and hours on the net searching for a specific fix (which doesn't appear to exist I decide enough! Today I filed a safety complaint with the NHTSA (#11467192, see below) to ultimately get Ford off their a** and deal with the problem. Here is what my complaint said: "After the dealer performed the 100k major service the engine began, periodically, to stall. The stall could occur while stopped (at a light or to make turn), while in park and only idling, or when the vehicle was in motion at less than 25 mph. If it stalled while starting a turn, then there was a serious risk of major collision from oncoming traffic. In said turn, more than a reasonable amount of time or distance was allowed to make the turn safely. However, if the oncoming vehicle did not recognized the vehicle was stalling, or had otherwise failed to properly evaluate the situation early enough then a collision would be likely. A scan of multiple Internet web sites found thousands of people, with model years before and after my vehicle, having the same or similar issue." Feel free to copy and paste any portion of my comments and make your own report at www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem#index. We all have better things to do.
Really interested to see where this ends. I had a 2017 F150 with 5.0 motor. At about 35k miles it started doing this thing where it randomly felt like it was about to stall when coming to a stop at a red light after driving for a while. It would dip down to about 200 rpm and then recover. Eventually it happened more frequently and finally stalled on me in traffic. All the research I did ended up pointing to the timing system. If you were lucky it was a VCT solenoid. If you were unlucky it was a cam phaser. My warranty was about to run up so I traded it in on a 4Runner. I really loved that truck but was at my wits end with it. Sometimes I miss it but then see videos like this that remind me I probably made the right decision.
Could it be the potentiometer on the accelerator pedal which drive the electronic throttle body ?? It seems like everyone including the dealer is missing this .
Did you ever figure out the problem. Mine has the exact same issue.
2016 5.0, same symptoms, replaced the phazer actuator and problem gone for months, almost 6 months. I found as soon as I touched the phazer plug, I could not duplicate issue, I replaced the phazer actuator, snugged up the connectors slightly in the plug on the harness, and he has been driving it for months. And it was pretty frequent when I first got the vehicle. Mine was drivers side intake cam, but I did both on that side right away. Good luck guys!
And my oil pressure was around 10 psi also, which at first I was concerned about, but apparently that wasn't the issue.
I think your on the right track with scoping the cam and crank. I could see a cam phaser acting up. As someone else stated above, ford did change their oil pressure spec. I would say 13 and under is a issue and should be addressed. If I was in your shoes I would do the same thing. If by chance everything check out I would make sure I wasn't losing fuel. If that checked out I was thinking a valve hanging up or a some issue but I highly doubt it for the fact it stalls. A cylinder missing on a v8 isn't going to stall. I'm leaning more towards timing issues like a phaser. Sometimes you have to stick with the basics. Make sure fuel and ignition doesn't drop out. Then make sure cam and crank signals aren't dropping. Last check cam crank correlation as you monitor the phaser control. I'm surprised your not setting any codes.
Thank you! Lots of great information. I’m going to see if I can schedule this one in for an extended period of time. Seems this one isn’t the only one out there experiencing this issue. Even if I gotta eat the cost unless resolved. I’m willing to take on that challenge. Especially now that I know how much support I have behind me..
Is the throttle position sensor within the body itself? I just bought a used 2016 f150 with 146k and it's stalling at idle also. Especially when the AC is running and having more of a load on the engine.
I had my 2016 5.0 act up for over a year. Dealer changed vct and cam phasers inside engine.To throw a code at rough idle may take a few months. In drive apply brake and release and let vehicle roll repeat. Ac on may help lower idle. The stall usually happens when foot is removed from the brake at a stop .Mine only would stall after 45mins or longer drive occasionally in the beginning. Also the older the oil the worse it gets. My truck was not my daily driver and sat most of the week. Also i was told vct screens can be plugged in top of engine . (Easy to clean) ......not sure if any of this helps...... it has stall one time since dealer "fixed" it .
hey youtube keepsz puttin g pop up cmmercials disrujopting the video, and they put the x button so small that it open s the ad, ima tell every youtuber i watch just so you k now who can i complain to. glad to see your back Mr. Robinson
Cam phasers are a joke. I'm about to drive my 2016 f150 5.0 off a cliff
At 5:11 it quits and I was looking away. But I was listening and scrolled back. Now I'm up with you. Dang, best of luck. I hope you find it.
My 2017 started having the same issue over the weekend while on a trip. Truck would start running rough and stall out. Both times running around 70. Would run rough the next few start ups, then would run fine the rest of the trip. Would love to hear what the outcome was for this issue.
I have a 2016 F150 5.0 and have battling this problem for the past year or two, took it to Ford once when I still had warranty and they replaced the MAP sensor it then was good for a few months until the problem came back, would clean throttle body, air filter, new spark plugs and it’ll be okay for a month or two until problem would come back, so frustrating because there is no engine light and does it when it wants too. Usually when I’m idle and goes under 500rpm it stalls out.
It's your cam phaser and vct solenoids
did you do the procedure of idle learning ?
I have a 2015 f150 5.0 after coming to a stop would shutter at lights. I clea ed egr recirculation solenoid and haven't done it no more
You’ll get, I got faith in you bud
Thank you Jack
I’ve heard unhooking the little wire that goes to the battery fixes the issue.
So what was the problem I have a same issue with my 2017 F150 v8 5.0? Took it to shop 10 time no codes no check engine
My 2019 work truck is doing the same thing but several times a day. Any update on this?
In part one someone else theorized that Ford might have a low oil pressure cutoff. Simulate low oil pressure to see if engine shuts off? This could be done several ways. Just out of curiosity, what would happen if you unplugged the oil pressure sensor while the engine is idling? I don’t know if low oil pressure will kill the engine in the PCM. It would be nice to eliminate this as a possible cause? Ultimately you’ll need to confirm actual low oil pressure with a separate pressure gage if only to catch a more serious cause that would result in catastrophic engine failure.
I have a computing background, I think the oil pressure drops below 10 and the computer stalls the spark. There probably isn't a code for it. I agree with the above poster that the oil system is clogged and causing it to fail safe to prevent engine damage. Physics do not change and that OP is way too low.
i believe what you say about the low pressure cut off. cold the engine is fine, drive it 10 miles and at an idle a lot of times it shuts off, if i hold it just above an idle it is ok. new oil pump was installed earlier. had a misfire which dragged the idle blow 500 and it shut off and oil pressure guage went to zero like it was cut off,
Did you try the purge valve?
I have a 2015 with the same issues!! I have tried EVERYTHING except the cam position sensors and cam phasers. Certain fixes would work for a few weeks and then the same issue came right back with different OBDII codes! I have had cats replaced after a p0430 code, replaced o2 sensors (4) with the cats. Replaced the evap valve, new injectors, new fuel pressure regulator, new plugs coils and coils, new evap canister, etc… and it all started with a p0012 code…. I changed the oil and the code went away but continued to burn excess fuel and want to stall at stops.
Update? I just had the whole vct system replaced, plugs battery ect. It still does it ffs
We have a 2015 F-150 Lariat that has been having this issue for quite awhile. When it throws codes get P0022 and P06DD, even right after oil change. Is really bad this time as has stalled 8-10 times in one hour. Mechanic said fix was to replace the engine which we aren't doing. Truck has 196,000 miles on it. Has anyone found the real cause of this issue?
Oil pick up tube is probably about 65% clogged this is very common especially for those who follow the idiot light for Oil changes. As for the stalling issue, if your trying to recreate the issue then you need to properly diagnose it by performing actual real life scenarios meaning you need to put the transmission in drive and then proceed to do normal operation, while under a load or in gear at a stop especially after the engines already reached operational temp only then will you successfully recreate the issue to give you the data you're looking for. I'll just spill the beans and spoil the fun right now tho. These 5.0 engines need new oil every 3k period. The entire system heavily relies on proper oil pressure and viscosity. How do I know you might ask? Am I a mechanic and just have the experience or am I just an overly ambitious Ford enthusiast and owner... if you went with ambitious Ford enthusiast and owner then you'd be correct. Although I am an ASE certified mechanic as well I do not work on vehicles for a living I just have a passion for it and especially when it comes to Ford. In my opinion and experience, running 8oz can of seafoam in your crank case just before your oil change (about 10 miles is sufficient) to get all the Funk down to the pan and dropping the pan to inspect for debris on the oil pick up tube screen and clean it off very thoroughly as well as inspecting for other foreign debris from things like worn timing chain guide shards. One you've visibly inspected and cleaned out the pan and pick up tube,reinstall with proper gaskets and put your new oil in. If no clogged or damage to the cam phasers then you should be good to go! Purge valve can also cause the stalling at stop or even idle but the oil pick up tube being partially or almost fully clogged is the main culprit for your loss of oil pressure at idle as well as stalling and if not addressed will cause failure of cam solenoids as well as phasers and timing chains ect.
Change your oil every 3k no matter what vehicle make or model and fork prevent the damages.
In this trucks case I'm fairly certain that you can do everything to put a temp fix to the problem but until you pull that pan and clean that screen the problem will only come back time and time again until the rest of the timing system starts to break down and fail. My current 2016 f150 5.0 is experiencing the same problem but in a later stage of the issue as it was used when I bought it with 130k. In my case I'm replacing all 4 phasers, solenoids all chains, guides, tensioners ect. Basically the entire timing system. I bought it with this issue at 130k and I'm currently at 182k. Other than the annoyance it doesn't affect my daily life to much but the fuel economy went from around 20-22mpg down to 13.5mpg over the course of daily driving another 50+k with known issues. I changed oil every 3k and it hasn't let me down yet! Number one thing I've learned while owning the 5.0 is oil cleanliness and viscosity have to be spot on. Any slack will cause premature failure of very expensive parts.
Also low coolant will cause issues. Make sure there's absolutely no leak.
Hope this helps! Good luck!
I just wanted to add onto this..I posted on the previous video he put up to start talking about this issue. I had this issue early (around 45k-50k miles) and suffered through it for years. Tried several minor things and finally got the advice to switch to all genuine synthetic blend motorcraft oil AND motorcraft filter and was advised to change oil more frequently (roughly every 3-4K miles I was advised). I started doing that about a year and a half-two years ago and it was around 80k. I’m now around 110k and not had even one sliver of rough idle since. I’ve also had one or two oil changes since where I couldn’t get around to it until maybe 4500 miles to change and still had no issues. But to conclude, using motorcraft synthetic blend and motorcraft filter and changing oil a little quicker has completely solved my issue so I agree with your statement
Does the 3k miles apply to 100% synthetic oil?? Also
What ? For real ?
So don’t use 100% synthetic Mobil 1 or similar ?
@Scundoor Sup if the truck in question is say a year old and has 15-20k miles and o only ever used Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend them I would stick to that because it is a recommendation from Ford specifically because of the viscosity needs. I myself, however, have used AMSOIL signature series full synthetic 5w20 in my engine, and it not only runs better in my opinion but has far better gas mileage @ 24mpg highway trips, and 22mpg average in town stop and go. But I am a huge AMSOIL fan and I believe they have the best or superior product when it comes to engine fluids. That is my opinion though. Even run it in the 2.7 and 3.5 and they've never had an issue both pull 24mpg average with 185k.
@@alicat3953 do 2016 f150 coyote have a mass airflow sensor ?? And where is it
im pretty sure if you un plug the vct on the valve cover itll go into fail safe and if the problem goes away its one of thos, also to me sounds like the electronic throttle body needs to be relearned theres a procedure, also thos long and short term fuel trims arnt that great id put another mass air flow sensor in it and purge valve they go bad so easy and can cause very wierd problems
Will the latest Ford spec is 15 psi minimum at full operating temperature in gear
Would 11psi be low enough to cause an issue?
My friends 5.4 started doing this and shooting fire balls out the tail pipe. Take 12v on gator clips, pull plug on cam phaser and give it 12v reversing polarity. Worked like a charm. Truck fired up fixed. My 17 5.0 has 160000km on itand its done this to me 3 times. Need time to check it out better. But 12v gator clip worked like a charm on 5.4.
the recommended 5w20 is too thin for older engine when they are hot especially in the summer heat
Wonder if anyone came up with a resolution? I've got a 2016 5.0 that is doing the exact same thing. It's to the point that I put one foot on the brake and the other foot on the gas pedal to keep the RPMs a bit over 600 when I'm at a stop, or more often than not it will stumble over and over, and sometimes eventually die.
Same, I’m about to do phasers, chains, vcts,and mabee oil pump , gonna be expensive but can’t afford to trade it in with prices being outrageous right now
@@jeremyruss2407 Well, would love to hear how it comes out! Was just cursing as my truck died at stoplight, then again in my driveway.
@@5thGenNativeTexan it’s so maddening ! Love the truck hate this stupid issue with no codes
@@jeremyruss2407 hey man, check Allí Cat’s comment as well as my response in these comments. I have a possible solution that worked for me. Have had no rough idle/stalling in a year and a half-two years and before I was having rough idle all the time
@@NJ-or4qr I read that too, guess I’ll be pulling the oil pan off as well , might as well do it right the 1st time
Just for information - The specification from Ford, for the hot idle Oil Pressure, used to be 25 PSI but Ford changed it to 15 PSI minimum.
1) What could be happening, regarding the engine dying at idle (such as when coming to a stop sign) is a sticking CAM VCT Valve/Valves. A test that might tell you if this is the case is to unplug both CAM VCT Valves electrical connectors (2-Pin connector on the front of each CAM), and then take it for a test drive. It should run fine and not have the engine stop running at a stop sign, or other hot idle case. May not have full power when unplugged. If then you plug them back in and go for another test drive and the problem comes back, this is an indicator that one or both of the CAM VCT valves are sticking due to slug (if it has higher millage, I don't remember if you gave the millage or not, also if Oil hasn't been changed as it should). It looked like from the captures you got, that it could be CAM VCT valve on Bank 2. Note that this can cause a issue at any RPM/Speed, not just idle.
2) Another possibility, especially if there is also a starting issue, is that the fuel pump fuse has gotten hot and melted some, causing poor electrical connection to the fuel pump thus causing the fuel pump to stop working until the fuse cools. There is a fuse changing location kit from Ford for this fuse (if this vehicle has this issue, possibly fuse 27) for about $35.00, or so. Apparently, because of the location of this fuse, it is getting to hot and melting, causing poor electrical conductivity in powering the fuel pump. This could cause all sorts of engine performance issues.
3) When you are trying to reproduce the issue, at idle scope connected, try tapping on the MAF sensor. See if doing so affects the idle RPMs, and thus the idle Oil Pressure. You could also monitor the MAF sensor with the scanner, or scope (scope may be better) while doing this. If it does, try cleaning the MAF with the appropriate cleaner. Note that if you could get it failing at idle and tapping on the MAF raises the RPM and causes the issue to go away, it could be a good indicator that the MAF is dirty or faulty.
4) I do not know if this is necessary or not, but after cleaning the throttle body you might have to do a idle reset/relearn, or something to that affect, to get the idle RPMs back to normal. Or, driving it enough with highway and city driving should also get the idle back down to normal.
5) Oil Pressure sensor could be bad. If it has Oil on top of it, on the electrical connector portion of it, that is an indication that the sensor has a problem. Changing the sensor may or may NOT help with this issue. If it incorrectly reports the Oil Pressure lower than it is, this may cause the ECU to shut the engine off to protect it.
I believe your idea that the issue is caused by one of the CAM sensors, might be on the right track (probably Bank 2). I think that it would be good to first determine if the issue is caused by a CAM VCT valve or something else (such as a dirty/faulty MAF, Fuel Pump, sticking EGR valve, etc.) If you do believe it is a problem with one of the CAM VCT valves, you need to know if the valve is sticking (due to slug), or if it is not engaging due to low idle RPMs and low Oil Pressure. After thinking about it, I do not think the low Oil Pressure not engaging the CAM VCTs is the cause of the issue, because these valves should be a 0 (not engaged) at hot idle, I think. I cannot be 100% sure of this. Low RPMs, of course, would cause the engine to stop. If one of these valves is stuck on or partly on, that could cause the shutting off at hot idle. You could also have more than one problem causing these issues.
Maybe one of these suggestions may be helpful.
Thank you for all this great info! I’ll read into it more in the morning. This has vct on both intake and exhaust. There’s No EGR valve per say on this setup.. I believe the cam sensors are good, I’m leaning heavily on a cam phaser issue. If I can prove out that 10-15 psi oil pressure is ok. I would go for it.. but not knowing I’m a little hesitant on just replacing parts
@@robinsonsauto Thank you for responding to my comments. I know you probably know pretty much all I suggested, but you asked for suggestions, so I provided what I could think of. Yes, I know it has both exhaust and intake VCTs, but I figured you already ruled out the exhaust. The EGR is my mistake. I somethings think one thing and say or write another. I meant Purge valve, or whatever Ford might call it on this truck.I see you have ruled out the CAM Sensors also. All I would say about the CAM Phasers is that if the problem with one of them is mechanical, they very often make noise as well. As to the Oil pressure, I suspect if you asked Ford that question they would probably say 15PSI is the minimum. I am just guessing here and cannot say for sure.
I am sure you know, depending on the mileage and maintenance the truck has had, that the engine may just be worn out. But I understand your concern regarding the Oil pressure and changing parts, and I would have the same concern. A tough decision to make.
Very interesting issue here, and very good video. Thanks for your effort making these videos.It really is appreciated.
@@TheOmegaman69 absolutely, I could follow every thought and your process is spot on and very logical! Sorry I was half asleep last night and wanted to respond more. These 10hr days lately are taking a toll. I truly appreciate your write up and this is going to help many people. I will be referring back to this for sure when it comes back around.
I’m not 100% sure how Ford is controlling the exhaust gas. From some of the theory of operations it appears they retard the exhaust cams? These are independent as well it seems? separate chains, oil tensioners and what not.. guess that’s where some of my worry revolves around. I’m most likely wrong 😅 that’s why Im here humbly reaching out to you guys. Because of great people like yourself, that are willing to help when someone is in need.. I’m thankful
Ever figure this out? My 2018 is doing this even after all vct components were replaced. New chains, vct solenoids, tenstioners, phasers.
Any tsb? Software updates?
I don't know enough about these to offer any useful advice. With low oil pressure possibly causing phasor malfunction, it sounds like a chicken and egg problem, tricky to sort out the main cause. One author here on TH-cam who specializes on Ford vehicles is FordTechMakuloco. He may be able to offer friendly advice, if he has time.
Replace the bank 2 intake VCT solenoid (br3z6m280e). Fairly common failure, assuming the inside of the engine is clean. You have to pull the valve cover to replace that anyway.
ANY UPDATES?!?! My truck has been doing this all year. 2019 5.0. So stressful and truthfully unsafe, i dont know what to do
same truck engine & year model i plan on taking it back to ford before my warranty runs out to check the cam phaser & VCT solenoid
19 with the same issue. Cam phasers and Vct have all been replaced and still stalls. Hate this truck.
Same here 19 5.0 and had oil consumption and started stalling at about 27K miles on it. Taking it in to the dealership in 2 weeks. Hope I get a solution.
@@tonypena818 @L J y’all check Allí Cat and my comment in this comment section. Had the same issue and have a possible solution that has fixed my issue. Have not had rough idle/stalling in a year and a half-two years ago
@delmar2169 dis you ever figure it out, im in same boat.
Add some Lucas oil treatment to the oil. Actually a common practice on higher mileage coyotes. Might buy them forever or a few months
So I'm thinking your thinking the same thing . Let's both think about this more 🤷♂️
I know what your thinking 💭I have the same truck, mine isn’t as pretty though. In a ditch effort I swapped the purge valve Since yes.. I have have had many failed purge valves come through.. we can try a third 🤷♂️ my truck hasn’t stalled yet though
My work truck has the same problem, spent 2k and problem not solved
Don't feel bad even Ford dealers. Many times can't figure out. The problem. And they charge an arm and a leg for nothing
Thank you! Very true, Found out this has been to the dealership 3 times for this same complaint..
Oil pressure @ idle with engine at normal operating temperature 10-15 psi (69-103 kPa)
Oil pressure @ 2,000 rpm with engine at normal operating temperature 30-40 psi (207-276 kPa)
Check for vacuum leak
First
💥 bam
Anyone here anything else I need a answer please!!!!!!! I’m dealing with this!!!
Mechanic thinks it’s a defective interment def coil pack
Don’t use after market purge solenoid valve either
inline gause filter to phaser
My Truck is doing the exact same thing
faulty phaser acuator
if the phaser is on cam 2 most likely the problem
Why would it be the phaser ?? it should just be at zero at idle. uts something else
@@josephkober3734 dont remember what this problem was. car i worked on had a hunting idle, couldn't track it down, or hadn't finshed looking, anyway when changing timing belt put a new phaser on as a matter of corse and idle was perfect purr
@@josephkober3734 may not be but don't rule it out
👍🏻
Hell I have a 2017 I just picked up with 180 metric k. It runs beautiful coming from a 2007 overserviced it ran great but getting rusty and ugly my son loves it gave it to him. My issue I just heard tonight is the 5.0 has a stalling issue that my neighbour has his a 2016 he researched the best years of the F150 mine in the same timeline what causes this I do not have this problem now but in recent cases it could become a issue. All auto issues show themselves over time this one will will be solved just seeing what the fix is.
My 2015 5.0 didn't have the problem until I took it to the dealer for its 100k major service interval. The it started so I took it back and after a day or two they couldn't offer any insights. A scan of the Internet shows thousands of F150 owners, before and after 2015, with the same issue. I several folks have pointed out you could spend several grand replacing various sensors and still not have it fixed. After many months of dealing with the issue and hours on the net searching for a specific fix (which doesn't appear to exist I decide enough! Today I filed a safety complaint with the NHTSA (#11467192, see below) to ultimately get Ford off their a** and deal with the problem. Here is what my complaint said: "After the dealer performed the 100k major service the engine began, periodically, to stall. The stall could occur while stopped (at a light or to make turn), while in park and only idling, or when the vehicle was in motion at less than 25 mph. If it stalled while starting a turn, then there was a serious risk of major collision from oncoming traffic. In said turn, more than a reasonable amount of time or distance was allowed to make the turn safely. However, if the oncoming vehicle did not recognized the vehicle was stalling, or had otherwise failed to properly evaluate the situation early enough then a collision would be likely. A scan of multiple Internet web sites found thousands of people, with model years before and after my vehicle, having the same or similar issue." Feel free to copy and paste any portion of my comments and make your own report at www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem#index. We all have better things to do.
Did anything come of this?
Any update? Going through hell with my 19’ 5.0 having the same stall issue
I complained thx you so much , took my car to dealership 10 times they couldn’t find anything,I will figure this out
@@ubica021 if y’all can find my comments throughout this comment section, I have a possible solution that fixed my same issue
The 5.0 noisy but amazing.