VVT (VCT) Solenoid - 2004-2007 5.4L Ford F-150
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- On this episode of Fear No Fix, Chris and Jordan replace the VVT (or VCT) Solenoid in a 5.4L Ford F-150 (model years 2004-2007).
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Required Tools:
Socket set: amzn.to/3vYpfGm
3/8 torque wrench: amzn.to/3feIl4e
¼ torque wrench: amzn.to/3uWxC5g
10 inch extension: amzn.to/33QvgsR
Screw Driver set: amzn.to/3y4RiWy
Torx set: amzn.to/2TfsSJR
Mallet: amzn.to/3frcspm
Fix Details:
DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) associated with this fix:
• P0012
• P0010
• P0022
Symptoms associated with this fix:
• Stalling
• Bucking
• Rough Idle (possibly getting worse as truck heats up) - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Man, you guys were spot on! The symptoms you described were EXACTLY what my truck was doing. Your step by step was great (other than getting the grommet being a pain to get out). The mechanic I took it to only did an oil pressure test and went straight to it needing a new engine for $7000.00. That just didn't sit well with me. So for about $120.00, including the 27mm socket and extension, I have my truck back. Thank you so much for doing what you do. If you're ever down this way, I owe you a beer!
My mechanic did the same to me
I'm gunna try this tomorrow..I have 2007 lincoln Mark lt pick up!
same exact thing my mechanic said and sounds like this is pretty spot on with whats going on with my truck and even throwing the same codes
Ok but will it last, I hope so
Mine looks to be leaking oil around there
Finally. A video that shows how to do the driver's side. Nice.
It would have felt like a bit of a sellout to do the easier one
Use caution.. I'm sure this video is accurate for several 5.4s but my solenoid did not physically fit through the port in the valve cover requiring the valve cover to be removed. That's not a huge deal. The bigger issue is that the bolt holding on my solenoid to the cylinder head was not "captive" which cause it to fall into the engine. I'm on hour 5 of trying to find it and fish it out. The content is fine but like I said, Be careful. All ford's are not the same.
I've heard it's the 2007s that are designed differently and require removing the whole valve cover was yours an 07?
@@jujubean7772 mine is an 05 F250, and I have to remove the valve cover….😢
I watched another video where a guy was saying to get an oem part in order to have the screw be "captive" as you unfortunately had it fall in. What brand solenoid did you have that didn't have the captive screw?
@@buckfiden1228 Mine is an 05 f150 with the 5.4
Though you have a 250, do we have the same engine?
@@Kartracer95 5.4 v8 yes same one. Is that your original motor?
the best video I've seen in a LONG time. very clear voice very clear images as they navigate thru the repair and simple terminology as they went along. No dealer for me on this fix. After watching this video I feel confident to take on the repair
Y’all have the best videos on these years of F150’s
GUYS!!!
My 2004 5.4L has been sitting for ALMOST a year while saving up for a motor rebuild.I've been forced to drive my 5 spd. 94 Chevy step side instead of restoring it... and i came across this video last weekend.... just popped up in recommended.... i spent today switching out both sides and then I was.... DRIVIING MY FORD AGAIN!!! I put at least 200klm's on it this evening and its never ran better... THANK YOU GUYS!!! im gonna sub, like, ring the bell, you name it!! I cant thanks you guys enuf!!! Matt From Surrey B.C.
Awesome, still good? Was it knocking before or what was it doing
@@KollynJ knocked when I bought her 18 months ago, ticks still just the same for the first 30k and the next 10k klms after the fix. Budget brake and muffler says most likely exhaust leak. When I get new pipes and manifolds put in I'll update
Update.. 10,000 klms (6000 miles) since fix and still running like a champ. Can't thank you guys enuf!!! God bless
Oh.. and pro tip: buy 6 inch long torques bit. Too long to fall in valve cover and worked like a champ
@@matthumphrey4915 so it still ticks but other things have improved?
Pro tip: I found a 6 inch long torques bit was best and could be put on a socket and ratchet when needed. 6k miles after this fix. Still driving smooth!!
BlueDriver!!!!!!!!!!! Best damn OBD II out there!!!! Subscribed instantly!
Probably the most informative video I've seen . Straight to the point and clear precise instructions . Thank you .
See if I can do this before the wife wakes up🤔
This video saved me 6500 bucks! Every mechanic I'm town told me I needed a motor .... Nope I went to O'Reilly's spent 50 bucks and bam it's fixed!
How’s it running? Still good? Mine is running rough when warmed up, about to try cleaning mine
@@Chrisrobba would also liked to know what his symptoms were before. Did you do this as well? Or you just plan on cleaning
@@KollynJ I tried this and didn’t fix the problem. Kind of gave up but my next thing to try to look at is fuel pressure and fuel pump
@@Chrisrobba look at fuel pump pressure sensors. It’s on back axle just unplug it, there will be 4 ports in it, just put two jumper wires in connecting each center pin two the outside pins. This will give you max fuel pressure as long as pump is good. Test it on a quick drive to see if your power is restore, should also fire up quicker if that was an issue
@@KollynJ thanks for the tip, my truck fires right up every time but after 15 20 mins it bogs down and barely runs and shakes bad or stalls. It’s got spark, changed to brand new plugs to see if that fixed it since they needed changed anyway. Seems like it has to be a fuel issue just had me confused since it takes 20 mins to start having issues
i have a late model 2006 and i had to remove the valve cover to get the solenoid out sadly you cant believe everything you see on the internet
Excellent and easy walk through. Worked perfect. 2006 F-150 5.4 Lariat. Engine running smooth as butter again. Thank you!
I have ordered the vct's and the grommets are in. Sort of nervous doing this.
Can you tell me exactly how you were able to get the grommets out? My truck be just like yours.
Thanks if you get a chance to reply. Jesus bless.
@@sandrarichardson2713 exactly like they show at 2:55 of the video.
@@shiversneak Ok...thank you much. First dry day and parts are in....will dive in. Will be glad to get it over with. Thanks for your response. Merry Christmas and Jesus bless.
We got the same truck and my blue driver diagnosed this. Is the screw for your solenoid built to not fall out like in the vid?
TH-cam certified now! Thanks to y’all saving my as some money. 💪🏾🙌🏾
Using an older screwdriver to replace the sensor, you can put a socket on the end and then set the torque to specs. It has to be the old plastic yellow handle type screwdriver so you can drop the socket on it.
Good idea - the original multitool
Is this for a P0020 code? These videos are great!! Simple quick and direct to the repair!!
You guys should list the parts # on your videos.
So this does not work for all years. There isnt enough clearance on my 2007 to get a driver on the solenoid t27 straight enough to remove it. You have to take the valve cover off
You guys did a good job out of half the videos I seen
Good job guys y'all earned my liked and a new sub 🙏💯🔥👌
I have an 08 and the 06, F150 with the 5.4, the 08 was kinda a pain in the ass to do. The 06 definitely is easy.
So you did this and it took away all codes na performance issues, stalling in both? I have an 06 as well sputtering while I let off gas
Thank you.this video was a big help.
Although that stupid braket was in the way. I kind of made some small dengs here and there. Hopefully nothing that would affect the install
Thank you Guys!
I almost sold my 2004 5.4L LARIAT!
You gave me another few years hopefully!
Random info:
The driver bank 2 and passenger bank 1 use the same part "Dorman 917-200"
dont use Dorman youll have to do it twice. Purchase Motorcraft whenever possible
@@BuckingHorse-Bull what about duralast
Did it last you or do you still have timing issues?
@@KollynJ no the issue came back i ended up just selling my truck :( the repair was to much for my taste ended up buying a new chevy
@@JDSUMNUT congrats on not having to deal w this crab anymore! Prob needed complete timing
For some models you have to remove the valve cover due that the hole is too narrow which is a pain in the butt. It happen to me a while ago and sucks!!!
Thank You for sharing and saving me some money visiting the Mechanic Shop ..
🙏
I have a 2007 with a 5.4l.
The demonstration in this video will NOT work for that year and engine. I found out the hard way. I checked it with the Ford forums. A certified Ford mechanic explained that the 2007 MUST have the valve covers pulled to replace the solenoids. He was correct. You cant even get a T27 torx on the bolt.
Just writin ....
Perfect video. Easy to understand and follow. Thank you!
Should you replace them both if you are having an issue?
My truck has some loud cam phasers do you think I can still drive I have no check engine light
Its definitely recommended to do both at the same time just for piece of mind
So I looked at right side bank 2 and there is no plug or it's not plugged in at all have you seen this
And what about the version where the sensors don't fit through the hole in the valve cover with the screws attached...? On the pasenger side I had to remove the screw from the sensor inside the valve cover (not my brightest idea) and used a magnet to attempt to remove it from the hole separately, dropped it off the magnet down the engine because it still wouldn't fit through the hole, forced the old sensor out breaking it in the process, purchased multiple magnetic and grabber tools and a camera to fish out bolt, then forced the new sensor in without the bolt attached, electrical taped the bolt to the T27 and worked it down to the bolt hole, screwed it in then pulled the T27 out realizing i taped the bolt too far and the tape stayed on the bolt not the wrench, used a small razor knife, the camera and micro needle nose pliers to get tape out and 2 weeks later was finally done. I need to do the driver side now. Not sure if removing the valve cover would be easier or not... the solenoids came with two different size grommets, obviously someone figured out the hole needed to be bigger after the fact.
Great video guys, easy to understand. I have a 2008 F150 FX4 with the same symptoms as Rene B and I'm guessing it's the solenoids. I tried removing the passenger side first because it is easier access, but my solenoid is offset and the T27 torx bolt is not accessible with a straight screwdriver. What do I need to do? I've read that the valve covers may need to be removed??
Looks like you're right - 08 step one is "remove valve cover" - we'll change the description of the video!
@@LemurMonitors 2005 5.4 FX4 F-150 passenger side. I just finished the job for a customer and had to take the valve cover off. I'm thinking this is drivers side only.
Very nice video, thank you for posting it.
When removing the seal I would have used a long needle nose pair of vise grips,
with a small brass hammer and tapped lightly on the vise grips to remove it.
I believe in preventative maintenance, could the VCT solenoids be sonic cleaned and used over again before they fail?
If you have the equipment it's certainly worth a shot - if the passages are clogged it can look like a solenoid failure
@@LemurMonitors I just order a commercial grade sonic cleaner, and I am going to try and clean them once I take them out.
As long as I am in there I will replace them anyway, but will clean the old ones and save them. I have a 2005 Ford F150 3V 5.4 triton engine with just over 60,000 miles on it. I probably won't do this until early spring.
Thank you for the reply and for posting your video.
I'm in the process right now after having done the passenger side. I must say, I used aT 30 screwdriver and it fit really well, so I don't know why everybody says a T27. Could it be that my T30 is a tad worn? I've checked but it looks really good without any wear. I went with a T30 and had less play than a brand new T27 . Thanks THUMBS UP!!!
Was it a T-30? #joshsprink
@@jjosh_sprink Yes. Use the T 30. Could the factory have used different sizes? I don't know. I I bought a complete set of that type drivers.
I seen your video and I did all that to my truck but it's still doing the same thing I have even changed the oil twice
I have been told that the 2007 models can’t be removed without removing the valve covers is this correct
Agree. I’ve been looking for pictures or video that shows how to tell the difference. Reason being, removing the nut holding the lower bracket of the power steering resivoir is a b*tch.
B/S i have a 2005 ford f150 i tried this and no the valve wouldnt slide out was to big pretty much destroyed my valve cover hole. then tried to fit new one in and same thing to big to slide write in.
How do you determine witch side needs replaced?
Hi Zom, I have the same question. It''s been some months since you left this question but you did you ever find an answer?
You guys rock, thank you !!
This isn't for all 2007 5,4 you have to remove the valve cover. This video needs to be edited to let people know. Totally sucked trying to get it out and finding out later. I couldn't do it this way....
Helpful, thank you
Great video
How do we know which one to change driver side or passenger side 🤔
I just got the same problem, and I don't know which side, either. Did you ever figure it out?
@@allenwhitmer8192 I just switched both out but it ended up been the motor itself had very low compression and one of the timing guides was broken
@@user-zy1ky5qg1k ok, thank you. Mine specifically said that the circuit at Bank 2 was open and I figured out that was drivers side. Haven't done the fix yet, but will let ya know how it goes
@@allenwhitmer8192 👍
@@user-zy1ky5qg1k oof so it must’ve had no power before hand? I can hear a rattle at drivethru if I hold it at 8-900 rpm
Further to the comment below that I have made, You say that the torx is a #30 Another TH-cam tells me that it is a #27. I know that the torx screw in the new CVT is neither. Please enlighten me on the torx size and also the answer to my comment below. Thanks
Please be sure to Reddit your video and add pull up on the solenoid as your unscrewing the bolt so as to not uncaptivate the bolt ty
My Expedition runs really rough. Replaced both vvt solenoids and both camshaft position sensors, runs noticably better but still extremely rough. It ran great with no cel then suddenly lost all power and began misfiring, cel came on and whim I checked with obd it read cylinders 5, 7, and 8 misfire as well as random misfires along with camshaft position bank 2 and O2 sensor.
*I* have had the EXACT same issues, right down to the cylinders that were misfiring, and the initial code telling me that the O2 sensor was stuck rich - I replaced the COPS, plugs AND the injectors (as I smelled gas), and it is bucking like a horse with no misfire codes, but NOW I am getting the “anticipated fault” telling me the timing is retarded on driver’s side bank 2 - so what was your fix??
@@b.b.3476 did you ever fix it ? if so what was the culprit ?
outstanding video thank you
No way that thing came out that easy
My truck is getting 0 fire on passenger side when motor is warm and throws p0012 now ..I hope this will fix it
I have a 2007 Ford F150 Crew Cab Lariat. I watched this youtube 4 times at various times before I started to remove the VCT solenoids from the 5.4 3 valve engine. Upon removing the seal from the valve cover to get the VCT out, I was unable to get to the torx screw holding it into the head. There is no way you can get a screwdriver down there to remove the one screw (torx). There just isn any room to do so, unlike the youtube you folks did. The 2007 54. must be a completely different animal than the one that you folks worked on. Even the seal on mine is different. It has no tabs as you indicated. Please tell me what the difference is in the engines and in particular the VCT solenoids. I am at a stand still on this as I didn't really want to remove the valve covers to change the VCTs.. Having said that, I see no other way to do it. HELP.......PLEASE!
Did they change valve cover holes because the grommet on mine was smaller on my 07 f150?
Yeah mine is smaller and centered rather than offset.
Curious if the valve cover port for the sensor is smaller on the 08's? That is the year I am working on and I cannot get the driver down between the sensor and the port to save my life. Other video shows that the valve cover has to be removed.
Have you had a response to this. I agree. My T27 screwdriver can't really go in hardly much less see the screw inside. I've come to a conclusion that this video is not valid for 2008s...port is just way too small given an inner lip. Only solution is to remove head cover entirely to get to VCT.
@@lupezuniga3921 That is pretty much where I am at, so yes, the valve cover has to come off.
I'm having the same issue. Have you done this yet Joshua? I'm assuming it's quite a bit more work.
@@waystar01 yes. I completed it last week. It was a pain and it didn't end up going the issue.
@@waystar01 yes it is
Good job guys
Same process with an 2007?
Thanks
It will not come out unless you remove the valve cover because of the screw on the side of the vvT solenoid
How do you know which one to do? Should I just do both? I have an 05 Expedition that has blinking CEL and running EXTREMELY rough.
Hi there guys I have a 2007 5.4 f150 automatic I rebuilt the transmission and the 4th gear works for first 10 minutes after that transmission is only working with 3 gears any ideas what could be the problem ? (No check engine light on in the truck)
What about the other side
Well done!
How are you doing guys?
I replaced both sensors and also fresh oil was put in on my F150 2004
Unfortunately, the code keeps coming back
What should I do?
Is there a certain hey screwdriver I need to use to break the bolt. I am having a tough time aligning the screwdriver to the bolt on the passenger side
Any T27 should do it as long as it's long enough
I have the same problem and I can't find a way to get it to work. It's like the screw is hiding behind the part and can't get enough clearance to get the screwdriver straight enough.
Great Video. I have a 2008 F150 FX4 and certain the solenoids are the problem. My truck runs rough occasionally when coming to a stop and I am at idle. When I give it gas it runs fine. My question is that the VCT solenoid grommet does not seem to have tabs on it. Did this change is 2008? Anyone have success following these instructions for a 2008 5.4? I am wondering if the valve cover needs to come off.
Yes valve covers need to come off I have an 08 & had to take the valve covers off
@@paulsosa1872 I had an oil leak at timing cover, oil filter adapter, and valve covers. I went ahead and did high flow oil pump, timing set and VCT solenoids.
I have a 2005 F150 5.4. I bought 2 of the vvt solenoids to replace old ones. Is the solenoids the same ether side?
What about the passenger side ?
Hi
I bought tahoe 2009 150k miles driven few days back. When i was buying they did compture test it shows falt P0751 -00 shift solenoid 1 valve performance stuck off and tech told me its ok.
When i drive sometimes i feel a jerk when i move from the signal light and this happen not always
Do i need to fix it. If yes plz guide me on what to be done.
If not any precautions i should take like not driving bit fast or pressing accelerator.
Thanks
After a long day of driving when I get home when I pull up in to my drive way to park it dies out.... would you know the reason???
I have an 07 f150 5.4 and you can’t even see the Torx bolt on the cylinder
So why does my 2008 Ford F150 not have that offset type vct gasket. It is round and there appears to be no room to remove torx screw??? Help!!
This does sound to be a different generation of F150. you would be better looking for these steps on a 08+ model.
What if the hole is too narrow
What if you forget to disconnect battery
Hi I was replacing my vvt solenoid on bank 2 and couldn’t pull it out through the valve cover and some how my bolt fell out of the solenoid how should I go about to find it I have a 2004 f150 5.4 3v?
id use a telescopic extension magnet tool
Muchas Gracias
I have this problem on a 2018 mustang but no codes besides for misfire on start up some times but it runs fine beside dying at idle
We have a video on basic misfire troubleshooting at th-cam.com/video/UO8Oo0drzck/w-d-xo.html
My problem is finding a t27 torx long enough to get down there
Which side is bank one
Nobody actually shows the before and after let alone the before or after of these replacements..
With side is bank one
Is this bank 1?or 2 Thank you Rick L
don't know which bank your working
This doesnt work for an 08 f150 limited AWD. Just tried it. You need to uncover the motor
How many vct does a 2006 Ford f 150 have??
i have 2007 f150 5.4 and i unsrewed it already but it aint coming out it hits the top of it when im pulling it out
You’ll have to remove the valve covers on
Fuck i have taken the whole valve cover out Lol but good thing is good again!!!
Is there a test to do to tell which side is not working thanks
cccccccccccan bot
How long should the screw driver be to take out the vct? Ive seen videos of people taking up extensions on wrenches to reach the bolt and i dont want to risk having something fall in ky engine so i want to know how long it should be to buy a proper screw driver
Anything fullsize screwdriver length like in the video will do it - a normal L shaped hex key will be too short, and I'd be hesitant to use a ratchet/extension in case you hook something on the way out like you mentioned
@@LemurMonitors what if something falls inside of there like the bit or extension?
I replaced the vct on the passenger side nd it's still stalls, is there anything else that could be the problem, I've also replace the crank shaft sensor nd the cam position sensor, pls need help figuring out the problem with my 04 ford f150 with a 5.4 engine size
You said you did it on the passenger side, what about the driver side? The solenoids are very common to stick on the 5.4 and 4.6 engines. I have a 4.6 in my Mustang and I'm having that issue right now, the solenoids come tomorrow. The phasers can also be going out but thats rare. Also clean your mass airflow sensor with MAF cleaner, make sure your throttle body is clean too
I replaced both cam shaft position sensor nd it seems like it got worst, check nd cleaned mass air flow nd throttle body, also tapped on the fuel filter
Just did a tune up and vvt replacement and still getting a once in a while misfire
I had the same issue I actually had a bad spark plug... the tip burnt off replaced the plug and was all set
So I replaced the VVT on a 04 ford f150 with a 5.4 cause it was stalling when I lead off the gas peddle, I took it to a mechanic shop nd they said I had to replace the crankshaft sensor nd the camshaft position sensor, but still it would stall when I take my foot of the gas peddle, I'm tired of chasing or paying a mechanic every time they tell me I need to change this nd that... PLS have you come across this problem nd how can I get my truck FIX
Engine codes?
Yea I have the same issue but you never responded lol I’ve been diagnosing for a while it’s only showing up as lean or rich and doesn’t completely stall out
Do the passenger side on a 2008 f150
My 05 5.4 3v, just cranks and does not start, and it blow blue smoke from air box, any help??
Skip time??? Phazer replacement and timing job??
What brand screwdriver are you using? Mine is too thick to fit
Brand should not matter as much as tool size. Any hardware store should have a small thickness screw driver avaible.
Does the new plastic cover come with the vvt solenoid or is that sold separately. If so what is the part number ?
It comes with it
Socket fell inside the hole what to do
you have to sell your car truck now, sorry pal
Hello, we have changed oil pump, timing belt and cam phaser on 2007 F150 5.4L. But for some reason, bank two is rough and make vibration, but I remove the solenoid plug then it runs smooth but make the check engine light to poped in. Can you please suggest what is the reason for it and what should I do ?
Replace the sensor lol. The CLE popped on because the sensor isn’t connected.
CEL* check engine light
@@LightMorningStar I replaced that today but no luck. Still vibrating.. Any suggestions
@@mann.sarabjeet if you didn’t replace both start there. It could be your cam position sensors, which can definitely cause your problem.
Can you do a tutorial on timing cam phaser?
see ford tech makuloco for all 5.4 3v issues
I have a technique to remove and reuse the gromments.
So that’s why I couldn’t just yank it out. Interesting
The tabs are only from 2006 and earlier, after December of 2006, it's a smooth round seal; no tabs. Anyone got tips on how to remove the solenoid on that? Most vids I see on this process remove the valve covers, which seems a bit excessive.
I'm not entirely sure that this is possible on the smooth round ones (no tabs). I can only barely see the bolt, and there's less room (the solenoid is centered on the smooth round ones leading to a presumably smaller access port. I cannot seem to get the T27 lined up to get into the bolt to remove it. Extra frustrating since your vid claims to be through 2007; I have a 2007 FX4 5.4L and the general process looks to be the same but the tools I have dont seem to want to allow for a proper alignment to get the bolt out; I'm forced off line because of the shoulder of the solenoid, and forced out of line because of that without room to get the tool in line. There is a notch at about 7 o'clock position that allows for a bit better access, but it's at a steep angle and doesnt seem to allow for a decent alignment to the bolt.
After further attempts, it looks like this is simply not possible on the version I have. It will require a valve cover removal; which in turn, will require removal of the wiring harness, ignition coils, and spark plugs; best to have a valve cover gasket on hand before the replacement.
Adding the info here just in case someone else has similar issues; I was hoping this would be a simple fix as in the vid, but it is not.
No idea if this will work or not, but here's an image album of the issue I'm facing.
imgur.com/a/AsEE3UW
What side is bank one passenger or driver
Bank 2 is driver, cylinders 5-8, bank 1 is passenger side, cylinders 1-4 with that last bastard the nemesis
I’m having trouble getting the seal to go back in, everyone videos has them slide in a bit atleast but mine won’t budge in at all even after hit it with extention an 22 mm socket ive even tried 27 mm
Have you checked the part numbers to make sure they're the right ones? Could there be any pieces of the old seal left behind or anything like that?
My exact problem right now too and they are the right part
@@LemurMonitors where are you located would like you to look at my truck
I took a 3/8 drive extension and and the 22mm socket I was supposed to use to hammer it in. Instead, I put the female end of the extension on the edges of the seal and hammered it down with the socket until it was all perfectly aligned. The center of seal won’t align properly unless you try to use the 22mm in the center to start with. Worked for me anyways. Also reused my old seals too, as they are in good shape. I used a butterknife to get partway in between the housing and seal and pryed out. Got the seal out with no damage on both sides.
Yes I know this is the “wrong way” but it has held up for years. And I didn’t have the right tools except for the 22mm socket and the t27 screwdriver.
Is the vvt bank 2 on a 2006 f150 5.4 XTL on the driver's side???
yes it is
@@herbertwall2379 thank you
Is that the bank 1 or bank 2 vvt
On this motor bank 2 is driver's side, bank 1 is passenger