I have a 1990 & 1991 F150 They are the most reliable trucks that I have owened , all I can say is They sure don't build them like they used to and yes I still have them
Not so my 2003 had 258,000 19 years old never left us anywhere had original engine,transmission, fuel pump, alternator and all interior components still worked. Then an A- hole in a Chevy wrecked it.
Would slush & snow mixed with salt freeze between the space? Then in warmer weather mud? If this may be a problem adding a layer of rubber or gasket material would be additional help.
If the heat sink is make of aluminum, I think you are seeing is a redox effect, akin to what happens with an anode rode in a water tank or a boat. You need a lot of water around, directly connecting parts of the bare rusty iron frame to the aluminum. The tendency of aluminum to oxidize is stronger than that of iron. That sets up a circular motion of electrons from the aluminum plate, through the steel connection, then back from the steel frame through electrolyte in the water, returning oxygen with extra electrons to the aluminum plate. You get selective oxidation of the plate to Aluminum Oxide and some rust preservation of the steel frame.
Did throw a code? I have an 05' I'm having problems with ..I think mine is a VVT solenoids.....or timing....its cutting out and stalling whe I come to a stop....just put cheap VVT solenoids in, and it started doing th eff same thing before I got it home.....gotta see what the new codes are...
Can you tell me what may cause a F150 2014 two-parter after you pump gas could it be the fuel pump module I had the fuel pump fuse relocated and replaced at the dealership
RLP U codes are network failure codes, usually caused by a faulty module or a pinched/broken wire/connector. Nothing easy about it, get a trained tech to work it out. 💪🏽
I am a tech, but I work at home and don't have access to Mitchel pro anymore to see wiring diagrams . I bought a new PCM programmed to my vin with two new keys I will need to have cut, I'll see when it gets here?
I would have just wirebrushed the crud off the back and rubbed grease into it, although that may have been tryed and failed. I used to repair large aluminium control boxes for bus alternators, they did the same thing, once pourus the water just filled the box and killed the electronics. It was scrap, cheaper to replace than repair.
richpin06a, the module is in an area where a lot of moisture gets kicked up underneath the truck. So wouldn’t the grease just wash off over time? Some kind of rubber or plastic mount, where the aluminum was not in direct contact with the steel crossmember, would be a better solution I think. Maybe use plastic washers instead of metal ones?
This will make your car stop without warning anytime anywhere how fast you are driving Yeah that's right it happened to me in the middle of a busy freeway bridge without emergency parking shoulders. Its a nightmare Mr. Ford f___150!
rich, any chance they are helping heatsinking of the module using the crossmember or just happens to be mount there. Asking because if you add an spacer, and crossmember would help on heatsink, the spacer will prevent that. for the level or dirt an corrosion between then is clear that its not a tigth fit as it would happen if they wanted the crossmbember thing to act as a heatsink. Nice vid. Cheers.
its aluminum. it needs to be protected. Etch and alodine, prime and paint the body then add washers after its coated. I would use Phenolic washers of some sort not metal.
11 -year old 06 F-150 stauling, just replaced this no success. I had no rust that I could really see under my vehicle and my part was not corroded like the one in the video.
Turns out a simple relay was at fault. When trying to start, you may hear a click noise coming from from what sounds like the center console compartment or passenger side somewhere... good indicator issue starting/stalling issue is due to a relay. It wasn't solenoids, fuel pump controller, whatever... it was a simple, easily replaceable relay.
I have a 1990 & 1991 F150
They are the most reliable trucks that I
have owened , all I can say is
They sure don't build them like they used to
and yes I still have them
I drove f150 1995 for 8 years i never had any problems i miss those trucks
Not so my 2003 had 258,000 19 years old never left us anywhere had original engine,transmission, fuel pump, alternator and all interior components still worked. Then an A- hole in a Chevy wrecked it.
Would slush & snow mixed with salt freeze between the space? Then in warmer weather mud? If this may be a problem adding a layer of rubber or gasket material would be additional help.
Thanks For That Vid. My wife Has 07 150. Im Gona Check that soon As I get home. Were in the north east. so im sure theres something going on.
If you have the four door model like in this video you need to check it ASAP.
Nice tip for a typical Ford issue.. Thanks
I guess that's the reason my moms 04 expedition has been stalling out, one time being on a busy interstate. Cant believe this isn't a recall.
If the heat sink is make of aluminum, I think you are seeing is a redox effect, akin to what happens with an anode rode in a water tank or a boat. You need a lot of water around, directly connecting parts of the bare rusty iron frame to the aluminum. The tendency of aluminum to oxidize is stronger than that of iron. That sets up a circular motion of electrons from the aluminum plate, through the steel connection, then back from the steel frame through electrolyte in the water, returning oxygen with extra electrons to the aluminum plate. You get selective oxidation of the plate to Aluminum Oxide and some rust preservation of the steel frame.
You just made me feel thick lol :-))
Thanks, looks nasty...this aluminum =((
Did throw a code? I have an 05' I'm having problems with ..I think mine is a VVT solenoids.....or timing....its cutting out and stalling whe I come to a stop....just put cheap VVT solenoids in, and it started doing th eff same thing before I got it home.....gotta see what the new codes are...
Did u find the fix?
Exact problem, any update?
Bro mine is doing the same thing...plz tell me you found a fix? Update plz!
Can you tell me what may cause a F150 2014 two-parter after you pump gas could it be the fuel pump module I had the fuel pump fuse relocated and replaced at the dealership
Yes please answer. I have same issue 2013 f150 5.0 stalling. Already relocated fuse 27 to 70
I had the fuel pump fuse also relocated it kept stalling
I am going to take a look at my modular
Can you put official part to link on Amazon in descrip? What I see on Amazon is Dorman. Is that offical replacement kit? TY
This totally worked on my truck. Thank you man 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💯
was yours not starting? mine cranks but wont start got code u1950
RLP U codes are network failure codes, usually caused by a faulty module or a pinched/broken wire/connector. Nothing easy about it, get a trained tech to work it out. 💪🏽
I am a tech, but I work at home and don't have access to Mitchel pro anymore to see wiring diagrams . I bought a new PCM programmed to my vin with two new keys I will need to have cut, I'll see when it gets here?
would this cause the truck to only go 50 mph
Its a 4 door 150 king Ranch. Would that be on there. ?
If this is bad will it cause stalling
Good work Rich, another BAD idea Ford!.............
I would have just wirebrushed the crud off the back and rubbed grease into it, although that may have been tryed and failed.
I used to repair large aluminium control boxes for bus alternators, they did the same thing, once pourus the water just filled the box and killed the electronics.
It was scrap, cheaper to replace than repair.
That's a great idea. It should work to stop corrosion.
jeffscomp
Well its worth a try :-), keep the water out and how can it oxidise/rust, i may be wrong but grease should stop it :)
zx8401ztv
I do not see why putting grease back there would not work.When you buy a new one it does come with standoffs though.
richpin06a, the module is in an area where a lot of moisture gets kicked up underneath the truck. So wouldn’t the grease just wash off over time? Some kind of rubber or plastic mount, where the aluminum was not in direct contact with the steel crossmember, would be a better solution I think. Maybe use plastic washers instead of metal ones?
Replace the module has new style bolts plus the old ones on borrowed time.
This will make your car stop without warning anytime anywhere how fast you are driving Yeah that's right it happened to me in the middle of a busy freeway bridge without emergency parking shoulders. Its a nightmare Mr. Ford f___150!
worked for me thanks!
Thank you for pointing this out
Sounds like everybody loves Raymond mechanic version
Peter griffin mechanic edition
I have an 08 ford 5.4l that will start with the pcv hose disconnected and won't start with it connected. any help ????
Could this be an issue with a 2012 my truck stalled on the way home from work and will turn over and fire but dies as soon as it fires up
Was it that by any chance?
I'm having issues with starting it will start with pcv hose off but won't when put back on. 08 ford f150 5.4l
so 2001 f150 don't have them correct?
rich, any chance they are helping heatsinking of the module using the crossmember or just happens to be mount there. Asking because if you add an spacer, and crossmember would help on heatsink, the spacer will prevent that. for the level or dirt an corrosion between then is clear that its not a tigth fit as it would happen if they wanted the crossmbember thing to act as a heatsink. Nice vid. Cheers.
I would not think the crossmember is used for a heatsink as just being in the open under the truck i would think would be enough.
Can't believe ford would put aluminum against steel that causes instant corrosion due to the dissimilar metals!! SMH
GM dodge does it too
its aluminum. it needs to be protected. Etch and alodine, prime and paint the body then add washers after its coated. I would use Phenolic washers of some sort not metal.
11 -year old 06 F-150 stauling, just replaced this no success. I had no rust that I could really see under my vehicle and my part was not corroded like the one in the video.
Did you ever figure out what it was that was causing the stalling?
Pro tip, edit out all the unscrewing of bolts and just show when you take it off.
The truck had a big oval warning sticker on it front AND rear !!
About 12 years on my 2006 F-150, I did not have this corrosion issue, replacing the part did not solve my stalling issue.
Jason Madruga you fix stalling issue?? Replace your vct solenoids. Both with oem Ford part don't replace with dorman or duralast brand part.
Turns out a simple relay was at fault. When trying to start, you may hear a click noise coming from from what sounds like the center console compartment or passenger side somewhere... good indicator issue starting/stalling issue is due to a relay. It wasn't solenoids, fuel pump controller, whatever... it was a simple, easily replaceable relay.
Jason Madruga got same issue would appreciate your help what was it the fuel pump fuse or the relay that is welded into the fuse box?.thank you
Jason Madruga also did you have a rough idle??? And did this fix it
I have never had a rough idle.
Unplugged mine, threw two fuses in the switch and it ran!!!! Bad module
Found On Road Dead? (D'OH!)