I've watched close to 10 videos on coilover/spring installs on ND Miata and yours is by far the most informative and useful. The others are time wasters by comparison. Only thing I would add if you didn't was after a 100 miles or so get an alignment.
Didn't know that, thanks. Do I do two alingments, one after the install and another 100 miles after the install? Or do I just do just one alignment 100 miles after?
@@4.1.8 just one alignment. The 100 miles mentioned above is because you want to give the suspension some time to settle into place before getting the alignment
You also might want to consult Flyin' Miata or Goodwin Racing for their recommended alignment specs for lowered NDs. It differs from stock to reap the most performance benefit.
@@MakitaDiesel definitely, I was using the FM alignment numbers before these coilovers went on and I loved it. Made a huge difference compared to stock which is a pretty awful alignment as far as any performance oriented driving goes
This setup guide is legit, lots of good information, talks through all of the adjustment variable like suspension travel, bump stop height, spring preload, shock damping, and why everything should be adjusted the way you have showed. Too many video's on youtube on coilover adjustment just goes "set preload to 2-3 mm and change ride height by bottom perch", but doesn't talk about the effect of increasing or decreasing preload. Even some coilover manufactur manual gets this information incorrect for some reason, you'd think they would know better since they are making the shock and spring.
Thank you so much! This is exactly why I made this video. I feel like I did a fair amount of research beforehand and have experimented a decent amount, but I still have a lot to learn and wanted to share what I learned so far with others to help them get a good baseline for their car. I’m glad it’s appreciated and helpful!
Again you have produced an awesome video with clear, detailed instructions and explanations, articulate and straightforward narration, and professional quality production values. Keep 'em coming!
Very comprehensive! I recently re-subscribed, as I had unsubscribed because I sold my 2019 ND Sport. I just bought it back, so I am back on your channel again lol
One correction to a comment you made, at least in regards to ohlins. The manual specifically says the spring perch is for preload and the shock body is for height adjuatment. Thanks for the video!
Your videos are incredibly informative and get straight to the point, keep it up! I am definitely saving this one for when I get a set of coil overs for my ND. I also live in east TN so per your other comment it’s good to hear the Meisters help with ride quality on these garbage roads! Also those rear adjustment extenders are a great addition. I had KYBs on my NB and getting under the car to adjust them wasn’t the most fun
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the feedback and support. These roads are the worst lol. Florida was much smoother but sadly the curves were too few and far between. I'm sure I have, or will, see you up at the dragon or other roads. Feel free to flag me down and take these coilovers for a spin if you are thinking of getting them. I plan on making a full review video for them within the next month.
@@DriveMX5 Ha I’m from FL too around Melbourne, only found one somewhat fun road that I would take on my way to UCF. Otherwise it’s too flat and boring for these cars. I try to hit the dragon and skyway a few times in the spring and summer and as often as possible in the fall. So I may hit you up on that flag down offer!
@@Whiskeyj456 small world! I graduated from UCF last year and then moved to west Knoxville this past November. Agreed, we had like one or two fun roads around but they were very short too. West Ozello trail is about the best one but it’s out on the west coast, Crystal River
Great video as always. Question: Why did you replace the Ohlins with the Meisters? Generally you see someone going from blisteins to a coilover, not a coilover to a coilover (so curious!).
Thank you! Simply put, I was looking for better ride quality, and honestly that's what the MeisterR delivers. Granted I picked up the Ohlins used and they originally had 10k/6k springs on them and I swapped the rear to 4k per Ohlin's recommendation. It helped, but still too firm for my liking here in East Tennessee. So decided to try a different coilover instead and the MeisterR GT1 has 6k/4.5k springs and it is a smoother ride overall. There are a few specific type of bumps where I feel the rebound damping is better tuned on the Ohlins, but overall MeisterR is more comfy and seems to deliver as much if not more performance on my favorite back roads. Granted it's not a completely fair comparison because the Ohlins were used and had different springs on them, and who knows if the damper valving was setup for street comfort with those springs or not, but I made the decision to sell them which cost me less overall than having them revalved, plus now I got to tryout a different product.
@@DriveMX5 Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the reply! I was mainly curious because the Ohlins seem to be the go to (outside of xidas $$ and fox $$) for most NDs, so always value other opinions!
@@crossbowzoom for sure! I’d imagine it would be a different story if I got them brand new with the 7k/4k springs, and even better if it was the long stroke version. Can’t say how the MeisterR handles track yet, but I imagine they would do just fine
hi, great video, but the meinsteer install manual It says that you absolutely should not use the preload adjustment to adjust the height, but only use the movement of the shock absorber body, I was wondering why you said otherwise, as I'm installing them and I'm a bit confused, thank you very much.
Thank you! Your comment is exactly what I tried to explain and showcase in the video. If you notice in the video, I go through a whole explanation and demonstration of using the shock body adjustment to set the length of the shock, ensuring that the tires will never come into contact with the body of the car, even under full compression. This is very important since it maximizes the amount of available suspension travel while preventing damage to the body of the car, your tires, locking the steering when the tires come in contact with the body, and upsetting the suspension. That’s why I adjusted the body of the shock first and then used the spring perch to adjust the height. I linked a great video in the description that explains this same concept, bump stop height, and shows visually what I’m trying to achieve in this video. Since installing my coilovers like this, I’ve had no issues with rubbing or otherwise. In short, doing it the way I did in the video ensures you get the maximum amount of suspension travel available from your coilovers while preventing the tires from ever coming in contact with the body of the car. Adjusting the spring perches (preload) will NOT affect the performance of your suspension as the springs compress to the same length when the car is at static ride height no matter what the preload is set to. It does change the amount of available compression vs. rebound travel available, but it’d be hard to argue that would have a negative effect on the car unless you adjust the spring perches to the extreme limits one way or another. I hope this makes sense!
@drivemx5, very nice video. I see that you have tried Progress Springs, Roadster Sport Springs, Ohlins DFV and also MeisterR GT1. Which one do you think is the best for a daily driver car? Everything else is stock in my car and have Progress RF springs. Debating getting GT1's or ZetaCrd but cannot decide. Thanks
Thank you very much! I appreciate you watching. To answer your question, it depends. Long story short, the Ohlins I had were used and had stiff springs on them. They were not quite as comfortable for daily driving as the MeisterR GT1s were. I haven’t tried the ZetaCRDs so I can’t say anything about them. My fiancé got the Koni yellow shocks and Roadstersport springs and I think it rides and handles as well if not better than both of the coilovers I had did, and it cost half as much. You will not get the fine ride height adjustment like you do with coilovers, but there are still three options via the spring perches for ride height. Depending on your goal and what you want to spend, any of the above options will not be as comfortable as just springs as stock shocks (in my opinion). The Koni yellow and lowering spring combo is very tried and true and the best bang-for-your buck. With coilovers, you do need to spend good money to get a set worth daily driving (again, my opinion), and that may or may not be worth it to you. I hope this helps!
I wanted a better ride quality and to try something new. The Ohlins I weren't too harsh, but nowhere near as comfortable as stock. I purchased them used with unknown mileage on them and they came with stiff springs on them. My guess is that they were valved for stiffer springs since the previous owner would autocross frequently. I wanted something better for the road and was able to sell the Ohlins for not much less than what I bought the Meisters for, and get to try something new. I enjoyed them and while I have not explored all the options out there, I did enjoy the koni yellow/goodwin lowering spring combo. Way cheaper than a good set of coilovers but still height and damping adjustable. I'd recommend them for sporty road use, maybe even a less stiff spring like Eibach if you live around bumpy roads.
Nice video, I am going to lower my car and get spacers, too. How wide are front spacers? As I can see your rear side with 25mm spacers but can’t see fronts. Thanks
hello - thank you for the very helpful guide! I used it to install Flyin Miata's Stage 1 Koni kit. Just curious what hub-to-fender measurement did you generally like? Mine sits well at 13.25 fronts and 13.5 rears, I just wish it overall a fraction lower.
I don’t remember exactly but I think it was around the same measurements that you got. It’s a good functional height. Did you by chance put the perches on your Konis as low as they could go? If not, you can get the car lower, but would need to take the suspension apart again
@@DriveMX5 I appreciate your reply! No, I didn't set it too low. I set it to the recommendation that FM has in their guide (Very top perch on fronts, 2nd perch in rears). I ultimately chose not to use any of the lower perches because the next step down for each corner is a bigger drop than I'd like. I know, I'm splitting hairs at this point, lol. I love my nd2 regardless! Thanks again!
Rolling your fenders have some benefits that adjusting piston travel don't. Mainly, bump stops will eventually fail. Fender Rolling is permanent. There's also much less labor on the installation if you don't have to disassemble the coilover to check the bump stop location. A general rule of thumb is to have 1/3 of the piston compressed when the vehicle is on the ground. You also run the risk of having spring lash if you lower the spring perch too much. We've seen mechanics and DIYs adjust the perch height to effectively lower the car and end up with springs sitting 45 degrees after hitting a bump. Luckily, thr ND's fenders roll nicely (when done properly). I have a video of a DIY roll gone wrong.
Fender rolling can take care of this issue but the fact that it is permanent is why myself and others don’t do it. Personally, I’d rather not permanently modify the body in that way and deal with the difference in fitment and potential issues with keeping the fender liners secure. But by no means am I dissing rolling fenders and if that’s what you and others want to do then go for it! And the bump stops will eventually fail regardless of fender rolling or not. They last long enough that it should generally be a nonissue for most people. The whole point of installing the coilovers this way is purely to prevent the tires from smashing the fenders and keep the springs from becoming unseated/under zero tension during suspension travel. Whether you have stock fenders or rolled them, these two scenarios can happen so it’s important to adjust your suspension to your car’s setup.
@DriveMX5 Keeping fender liners in place is a non-issue. Over 6k cars and I've never had an customer complain about a fender liner falling. Most of them are secured with upwards of a dozen clips and or screws. As for the permanence of fender modification, I'll just say that we've done fender work on leased S Class and the dealership took the cars back without incident. This method works well for coilovers with 3 way adjustments (length, preload, and piston travel). Most coilovers are 1 or 2 way adjustable and there can be annoying problems that occur by trying to adjust for bump stop height.
Thank you for the great video, look forward to any ride quality updates as I am just in the process to update my stock set up. Q:How did you get your Meister's in orange to match your 30th ann ed? Nice touch by the way.
I wish they were in orange! It must be some camera trickery, they are red like all the other ones :( I need to get working on the review video ASAP! Trying to experiment with these and get enough seat time on them before making a final judgement/opinion.
@@DriveMX5 Awe to bad, matching orange would be cool. Well enjoy exploring your GT1's, as the say its not the destination but the journey that counts. Cheers!
Sup man. Thx for the vid. I’m still 1/3 of the way of watching it. And I noticed the front strut tower brace. Is that from Goodwin Racing or did it come with the limited edition?
Alright so I saw the video and yes it has a lot BUT that’s better. We can always pause it or scroll back as many times needed. At the moment I don’t have the coil-overs yet but this gives me more confidence and what brand to use so thx again. I’m putting it inside the watch later folder
I was planning on installing a full exhaust (header and midpipe in addition to my race muffler) and then doing the Fab9 tune, but life has changed and I’m actually selling my car. It should be on cars and bids soon! Just waiting on them to send me the draft listing to approve and then get it scheduled for auction
Hello, what differences in handling and steering feel did you had with the spacers? I'm planning to put 4 of 15mm width just for the look but I'm afraid to mess up something in the steering changing scrub radius.
@@Moriggia yeah I’d say so. I know wheel spacers can cause excessive wear in your wheel bearings. I don’t think I’ve had issues with that yet and hoping that doesn’t occur
Hello, the price of these is in the range of the Ohlins R&T? What do you think about the CRD Z that comes with 7kg front and 4.5 rear? I have a budget of 1000/1200 euro and they would be perfect. I will watch this video a hundred times when I'll install them ahah thanks
Hi! So I actually replaced Ohlins R&T with these. Fair warning, I got the Ohlins used and they came with 10k/6k springs. Swapped the rear to 4k to improve the ride quality, which it did, but they were still too firm and stiff for my liking on the bumpy roads in east Tennessee where I live. These are more comfortable in almost every condition and handle just as well for me if not better. Part of this may be to the fact they are newer and have a much softer front spring to absorb and move with bumps in the road. I haven’t tried the Zeta CRD but have heard they are really good and the GT1 is not twice as good despite being almost twice as much. I think the Zeta CRD would be an excellent option for the budget you have, probably better than any option besides perhaps lowering springs and koni yellow dampers, but I have not tried those either
@@spartikus1975 if you’re referring to the ones on the bottom control arm then no because they will be loosened when you get an alignment, so not need to worry about them at this point.
@@DriveMX5 ok i just meant if i install everything and then want to raise or lower the car would i have to loosen and tighten them every time or are you saying i would get an alignment everytime i messed with the height so then they would loosen and tighten them?
@@DriveMX5 I just thought of something else. I have lowered by car on H&R springs already now I want to put in coilovers since I am going to be staying almost the same lowered height maybe 1/2 inch or less lower do I still need to undo all those control arm bolts/nuts etc for the bushings or will it be ok since car is lowered already? thanks for you input I appreciate it.
I remember the process for torquing the shocks/coilovers involved lifting the tire with a floor jack until that corner of the car was slightly lifted and no longer resting on the jack stand. Will that be the same as the process you used here of lifting until the measured distance between the hub and the fender line is the same as when it was on the ground?
Yes, exactly! I couldn’t get that hub to fender distance exactly the same as when the car was on the ground but it was close enough and better than doing the process ‘blind’
@@DriveMX5 Hey man, thanks a lot for your reply! Can you help me out just real quick? I tried your method and I did see an improvement, but I'm still seeing ride heights higher than what the Flyin Miata's website describes. I see about .2-.3" higher in every corner and even .5" higher in front passenger side! For installation, I didn't mess with any of the torque bolts, namely, the lower control arm bolts in the front, and the two bolts in the rear that can be used for alignment plus the bolt that is almost inaccessible. Could my ride heights still be higher than expected because I didn't loosen and retorque those bolts?
@@DriveMX5 I had Non-Bilstein OEM shocks and springs. Installed OEM Bilstein shocks and Flyin' Miata Springs. The shocks are from a soft top, I made sure of that. Wondering if just getting an alignment will fix some?
@@Fideon I’m also not sure the alignment would make that much of a difference, seems like something else is going on. I would double check to make sure everything is put together properly and the front shocks and springs are on the front of the car and rear shocks and springs are on the rear of the car. If all is good there, drive it around for a few days and put some good miles on it and see if the car settles in and if so then I would get it aligned
I sold them to pay for 77% of the MeisterRs. The other option would be to pay for softer front springs (I was already running 4k on the rear, reduced from 6k when I originally got the Ohlins) and have them revalved. Would’ve been over $1k for all that vs. $400 for getting new suspension from scratch. Made sense to me to have the opportunity to try a different setup. In hindsight, part of me does wish I got the Ohlins revalved and put diff springs on but I also learned a lot through the process of selecting and installing a fresh set of coilovers, and that was valuable. I enjoy the MeisterR GT1 and feel they make a really good coilover. May or may not be as good as Ohlins but I enjoy them and they ride and handle well. I’ll be able to have the MeisterRs on track Dec. 11 and that should give me a better idea of how they compare overall.
Booo, two-piece coilovers.. do not work well on the ND, IMO. Surprised to see you were swapping from the Ohlins to the Miesters, instead of opting for a single-piece design--though this is assuming you swapped them out because the Ohlins did not ride how you wanted. (Enjoyed the instruction itself though.)
Hit the nail on the head! Ohlins were quite firm and stiff around East TN roads. MeisterR so far are more comfortable in the vast majority of scenarios and seem to have a wider range of damping adjustment. After making this video and doing all the research, I was actually thinking that a good single piece like KW or FM Fox would be the way to go and then adjust the bump stop itself to prevent the tires from hitting the fenders. Which coilovers do you have and what is your opinion of them? I'd love to experiment more with different options, just limited by budget haha
@@DriveMX5 I totally get ya. Hopefully it didn’t sound like I was starting to bash your choice, rather just the marketing and shit that follows two-piece setups. I was originally on a set of Ohlins, but after dealing with like an inch-and-a-half of travel in the rear (about 12.5” square ride-height) I took them out and replaced them with a set of SuperMiata Xidas. I am in CO., so the roads are shit here too, and even though it is my daily (for the time being) and I’m on RE71Rs with track rates on the Xidas, they’re friggin great. It’s definitely “stiffer” than what most people would probably prefer for their daily, but I think the setup is perfect…great amount of travel to actually absorb the bigger bumps and with that, a far better overall feeling of control. I was really 50/50 between the FM Foxxs and Xidas but the Xidas happened to be in stock and I ordered them with updated springs that the Foxxs didn’t have the option for.
@@b2bb I totally understand. I was impressed with Xidas when I drove an NB that had them. The rate was like 12k front and they still felt more comfortable than my Ohlins did with 10k front springs. I used to think 2 piece was superior, I bought into the marketing hype. Only later was I taught that it’s actually a cheaper way to design and produce aftermarket suspension. Maybe some day I’ll try a single piece coilover
@@DriveMX5 Quite literally, the same goes for me. Maybe SuperMiata or FM can hook you up--the latter being more likely. I hope the Meisters are still working better for you in either case!
I've watched half a dozen coil-over videos and this is the best so far. Very well and clearly explained. Thank you.
Thank you so much! I’m glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful
I've watched close to 10 videos on coilover/spring installs on ND Miata and yours is by far the most informative and useful. The others are time wasters by comparison. Only thing I would add if you didn't was after a 100 miles or so get an alignment.
Thank you very much! I can’t remember if I added that part about the alignment or not, but you’re correct!
Didn't know that, thanks. Do I do two alingments, one after the install and another 100 miles after the install? Or do I just do just one alignment 100 miles after?
@@4.1.8 just one alignment. The 100 miles mentioned above is because you want to give the suspension some time to settle into place before getting the alignment
You also might want to consult Flyin' Miata or Goodwin Racing for their recommended alignment specs for lowered NDs. It differs from stock to reap the most performance benefit.
@@MakitaDiesel definitely, I was using the FM alignment numbers before these coilovers went on and I loved it. Made a huge difference compared to stock which is a pretty awful alignment as far as any performance oriented driving goes
This setup guide is legit, lots of good information, talks through all of the adjustment variable like suspension travel, bump stop height, spring preload, shock damping, and why everything should be adjusted the way you have showed. Too many video's on youtube on coilover adjustment just goes "set preload to 2-3 mm and change ride height by bottom perch", but doesn't talk about the effect of increasing or decreasing preload. Even some coilover manufactur manual gets this information incorrect for some reason, you'd think they would know better since they are making the shock and spring.
Thank you so much! This is exactly why I made this video. I feel like I did a fair amount of research beforehand and have experimented a decent amount, but I still have a lot to learn and wanted to share what I learned so far with others to help them get a good baseline for their car. I’m glad it’s appreciated and helpful!
100% solid information with zero fat. Amazing video. Thank you for putting this together!
Again you have produced an awesome video with clear, detailed instructions and explanations, articulate and straightforward narration, and professional quality production values. Keep 'em coming!
Thank you so much!
Very comprehensive! I recently re-subscribed, as I had unsubscribed because I sold my 2019 ND Sport. I just bought it back, so I am back on your channel again lol
Haha congrats on getting a Miata again and thank you for coming back!
Adjust preload to change ride height. That is so true
One correction to a comment you made, at least in regards to ohlins. The manual specifically says the spring perch is for preload and the shock body is for height adjuatment.
Thanks for the video!
I’m a fan of all the outfit changes! Great video!! Can’t wait for you to install some on mine!
😂 thanks! You mean I have to do this all again? 😅
@@DriveMX5 hey man it was your idea
Your videos are incredibly informative and get straight to the point, keep it up! I am definitely saving this one for when I get a set of coil overs for my ND. I also live in east TN so per your other comment it’s good to hear the Meisters help with ride quality on these garbage roads!
Also those rear adjustment extenders are a great addition. I had KYBs on my NB and getting under the car to adjust them wasn’t the most fun
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the feedback and support. These roads are the worst lol. Florida was much smoother but sadly the curves were too few and far between.
I'm sure I have, or will, see you up at the dragon or other roads. Feel free to flag me down and take these coilovers for a spin if you are thinking of getting them. I plan on making a full review video for them within the next month.
@@DriveMX5 Ha I’m from FL too around Melbourne, only found one somewhat fun road that I would take on my way to UCF. Otherwise it’s too flat and boring for these cars.
I try to hit the dragon and skyway a few times in the spring and summer and as often as possible in the fall. So I may hit you up on that flag down offer!
@@Whiskeyj456 small world! I graduated from UCF last year and then moved to west Knoxville this past November. Agreed, we had like one or two fun roads around but they were very short too. West Ozello trail is about the best one but it’s out on the west coast, Crystal River
Great video as always. Question: Why did you replace the Ohlins with the Meisters? Generally you see someone going from blisteins to a coilover, not a coilover to a coilover (so curious!).
Thank you! Simply put, I was looking for better ride quality, and honestly that's what the MeisterR delivers. Granted I picked up the Ohlins used and they originally had 10k/6k springs on them and I swapped the rear to 4k per Ohlin's recommendation. It helped, but still too firm for my liking here in East Tennessee.
So decided to try a different coilover instead and the MeisterR GT1 has 6k/4.5k springs and it is a smoother ride overall. There are a few specific type of bumps where I feel the rebound damping is better tuned on the Ohlins, but overall MeisterR is more comfy and seems to deliver as much if not more performance on my favorite back roads.
Granted it's not a completely fair comparison because the Ohlins were used and had different springs on them, and who knows if the damper valving was setup for street comfort with those springs or not, but I made the decision to sell them which cost me less overall than having them revalved, plus now I got to tryout a different product.
@@DriveMX5 Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the reply! I was mainly curious because the Ohlins seem to be the go to (outside of xidas $$ and fox $$) for most NDs, so always value other opinions!
@@crossbowzoom for sure! I’d imagine it would be a different story if I got them brand new with the 7k/4k springs, and even better if it was the long stroke version. Can’t say how the MeisterR handles track yet, but I imagine they would do just fine
hi, great video, but the meinsteer install manual It says that you absolutely should not use the preload adjustment to adjust the height, but only use the movement of the shock absorber body, I was wondering why you said otherwise, as I'm installing them and I'm a bit confused, thank you very much.
Thank you! Your comment is exactly what I tried to explain and showcase in the video. If you notice in the video, I go through a whole explanation and demonstration of using the shock body adjustment to set the length of the shock, ensuring that the tires will never come into contact with the body of the car, even under full compression. This is very important since it maximizes the amount of available suspension travel while preventing damage to the body of the car, your tires, locking the steering when the tires come in contact with the body, and upsetting the suspension. That’s why I adjusted the body of the shock first and then used the spring perch to adjust the height. I linked a great video in the description that explains this same concept, bump stop height, and shows visually what I’m trying to achieve in this video. Since installing my coilovers like this, I’ve had no issues with rubbing or otherwise.
In short, doing it the way I did in the video ensures you get the maximum amount of suspension travel available from your coilovers while preventing the tires from ever coming in contact with the body of the car. Adjusting the spring perches (preload) will NOT affect the performance of your suspension as the springs compress to the same length when the car is at static ride height no matter what the preload is set to. It does change the amount of available compression vs. rebound travel available, but it’d be hard to argue that would have a negative effect on the car unless you adjust the spring perches to the extreme limits one way or another. I hope this makes sense!
@drivemx5, very nice video. I see that you have tried Progress Springs, Roadster Sport Springs, Ohlins DFV and also MeisterR GT1. Which one do you think is the best for a daily driver car? Everything else is stock in my car and have Progress RF springs. Debating getting GT1's or ZetaCrd but cannot decide. Thanks
Thank you very much! I appreciate you watching. To answer your question, it depends. Long story short, the Ohlins I had were used and had stiff springs on them. They were not quite as comfortable for daily driving as the MeisterR GT1s were. I haven’t tried the ZetaCRDs so I can’t say anything about them.
My fiancé got the Koni yellow shocks and Roadstersport springs and I think it rides and handles as well if not better than both of the coilovers I had did, and it cost half as much. You will not get the fine ride height adjustment like you do with coilovers, but there are still three options via the spring perches for ride height.
Depending on your goal and what you want to spend, any of the above options will not be as comfortable as just springs as stock shocks (in my opinion). The Koni yellow and lowering spring combo is very tried and true and the best bang-for-your buck. With coilovers, you do need to spend good money to get a set worth daily driving (again, my opinion), and that may or may not be worth it to you. I hope this helps!
This was an amazing video!
Thank you so much!
Hi! I want to ask you why you changed from ohlins to meister? What coilovers would you recommend me for mainly road usage? (sporty drive) Thanks!
I wanted a better ride quality and to try something new. The Ohlins I weren't too harsh, but nowhere near as comfortable as stock. I purchased them used with unknown mileage on them and they came with stiff springs on them. My guess is that they were valved for stiffer springs since the previous owner would autocross frequently. I wanted something better for the road and was able to sell the Ohlins for not much less than what I bought the Meisters for, and get to try something new. I enjoyed them and while I have not explored all the options out there, I did enjoy the koni yellow/goodwin lowering spring combo. Way cheaper than a good set of coilovers but still height and damping adjustable. I'd recommend them for sporty road use, maybe even a less stiff spring like Eibach if you live around bumpy roads.
@@DriveMX5ok I understand. Thanks for the long explanations and for the recommendation. I’ll definitely go for the Ohlins. Thanks dude
Nice video, I am going to lower my car and get spacers, too. How wide are front spacers? As I can see your rear side with 25mm spacers but can’t see fronts. Thanks
Thank you! Front is 20mm. With those and the car lowered it did rub away some of the front fender liner but no other issues so far
hello - thank you for the very helpful guide! I used it to install Flyin Miata's Stage 1 Koni kit. Just curious what hub-to-fender measurement did you generally like? Mine sits well at 13.25 fronts and 13.5 rears, I just wish it overall a fraction lower.
I don’t remember exactly but I think it was around the same measurements that you got. It’s a good functional height. Did you by chance put the perches on your Konis as low as they could go? If not, you can get the car lower, but would need to take the suspension apart again
@@DriveMX5 I appreciate your reply! No, I didn't set it too low. I set it to the recommendation that FM has in their guide (Very top perch on fronts, 2nd perch in rears). I ultimately chose not to use any of the lower perches because the next step down for each corner is a bigger drop than I'd like. I know, I'm splitting hairs at this point, lol. I love my nd2 regardless! Thanks again!
Rolling your fenders have some benefits that adjusting piston travel don't. Mainly, bump stops will eventually fail. Fender Rolling is permanent. There's also much less labor on the installation if you don't have to disassemble the coilover to check the bump stop location. A general rule of thumb is to have 1/3 of the piston compressed when the vehicle is on the ground. You also run the risk of having spring lash if you lower the spring perch too much. We've seen mechanics and DIYs adjust the perch height to effectively lower the car and end up with springs sitting 45 degrees after hitting a bump.
Luckily, thr ND's fenders roll nicely (when done properly). I have a video of a DIY roll gone wrong.
Fender rolling can take care of this issue but the fact that it is permanent is why myself and others don’t do it. Personally, I’d rather not permanently modify the body in that way and deal with the difference in fitment and potential issues with keeping the fender liners secure. But by no means am I dissing rolling fenders and if that’s what you and others want to do then go for it!
And the bump stops will eventually fail regardless of fender rolling or not. They last long enough that it should generally be a nonissue for most people.
The whole point of installing the coilovers this way is purely to prevent the tires from smashing the fenders and keep the springs from becoming unseated/under zero tension during suspension travel. Whether you have stock fenders or rolled them, these two scenarios can happen so it’s important to adjust your suspension to your car’s setup.
@DriveMX5 Keeping fender liners in place is a non-issue. Over 6k cars and I've never had an customer complain about a fender liner falling. Most of them are secured with upwards of a dozen clips and or screws.
As for the permanence of fender modification, I'll just say that we've done fender work on leased S Class and the dealership took the cars back without incident.
This method works well for coilovers with 3 way adjustments (length, preload, and piston travel). Most coilovers are 1 or 2 way adjustable and there can be annoying problems that occur by trying to adjust for bump stop height.
Thank you for the great video, look forward to any ride quality updates as I am just in the process to update my stock set up. Q:How did you get your Meister's in orange to match your 30th ann ed? Nice touch by the way.
I wish they were in orange! It must be some camera trickery, they are red like all the other ones :(
I need to get working on the review video ASAP! Trying to experiment with these and get enough seat time on them before making a final judgement/opinion.
@@DriveMX5 Awe to bad, matching orange would be cool. Well enjoy exploring your GT1's, as the say its not the destination but the journey that counts. Cheers!
Sup man. Thx for the vid. I’m still 1/3 of the way of watching it. And I noticed the front strut tower brace. Is that from Goodwin Racing or did it come with the limited edition?
It’s the V1 Goodwin brace. Thank you for watching!
Alright so I saw the video and yes it has a lot BUT that’s better. We can always pause it or scroll back as many times needed. At the moment I don’t have the coil-overs yet but this gives me more confidence and what brand to use so thx again. I’m putting it inside the watch later folder
Thanks for your review and information
What about fab9 tune for your nd2 ?
I was planning on installing a full exhaust (header and midpipe in addition to my race muffler) and then doing the Fab9 tune, but life has changed and I’m actually selling my car. It should be on cars and bids soon! Just waiting on them to send me the draft listing to approve and then get it scheduled for auction
@@DriveMX5
Thank you for your quick response.
Please keep updating us
Interested to know what stiffness you have yours set for street driving. Thanks
I want to say it was somewhere in the 14-18 clicks from full stiff range. Can’t remember exactly and I would change it ever so often to experiment.
@@DriveMX5 I just installed Zeta CRD last month and at 10F 15R, probably will dial back 5 clicks soon but it’s pretty decent now.
Hello, what differences in handling and steering feel did you had with the spacers? I'm planning to put 4 of 15mm width just for the look but I'm afraid to mess up something in the steering changing scrub radius.
I think it might have made the car feel a bit less wobbly and too heavy but I didn’t really notice much of a difference in anything else
@@DriveMX5 so it is better?
@@Moriggia yeah I’d say so. I know wheel spacers can cause excessive wear in your wheel bearings. I don’t think I’ve had issues with that yet and hoping that doesn’t occur
@@DriveMX5 I don't think you'll have problems in that way, the MX-5 is very lightweight and I think that the bearings aren't stressed
@@Moriggia I hope!
Hello, the price of these is in the range of the Ohlins R&T? What do you think about the CRD Z that comes with 7kg front and 4.5 rear? I have a budget of 1000/1200 euro and they would be perfect.
I will watch this video a hundred times when I'll install them ahah thanks
Hi! So I actually replaced Ohlins R&T with these. Fair warning, I got the Ohlins used and they came with 10k/6k springs. Swapped the rear to 4k to improve the ride quality, which it did, but they were still too firm and stiff for my liking on the bumpy roads in east Tennessee where I live.
These are more comfortable in almost every condition and handle just as well for me if not better. Part of this may be to the fact they are newer and have a much softer front spring to absorb and move with bumps in the road.
I haven’t tried the Zeta CRD but have heard they are really good and the GT1 is not twice as good despite being almost twice as much. I think the Zeta CRD would be an excellent option for the budget you have, probably better than any option besides perhaps lowering springs and koni yellow dampers, but I have not tried those either
@@DriveMX5 I think you convinced me 😁
@@DriveMX5 another question, did you have to reset the headlights or it's automatic?
@@Moriggia no for me it’s automatic. Mine doesn’t have that headlight leveler
@@DriveMX5 thank you
Yo can you send me a link we’re you bought the scrims ??
do you not have to loosen the nuts on the front like you did on the rear?
@@spartikus1975 if you’re referring to the ones on the bottom control arm then no because they will be loosened when you get an alignment, so not need to worry about them at this point.
@@DriveMX5 ok i just meant if i install everything and then want to raise or lower the car would i have to loosen and tighten them every time or are you saying i would get an alignment everytime i messed with the height so then they would loosen and tighten them?
@@spartikus1975 I would say for minor adjustments in ride height not to worry about loosening the bolts or getting another alignment
@@DriveMX5 I just thought of something else. I have lowered by car on H&R springs already now I want to put in coilovers since I am going to be staying almost the same lowered height maybe 1/2 inch or less lower do I still need to undo all those control arm bolts/nuts etc for the bushings or will it be ok since car is lowered already? thanks for you input I appreciate it.
@@spartikus1975 I wouldn’t really worry about it in that case
I remember the process for torquing the shocks/coilovers involved lifting the tire with a floor jack until that corner of the car was slightly lifted and no longer resting on the jack stand. Will that be the same as the process you used here of lifting until the measured distance between the hub and the fender line is the same as when it was on the ground?
Yes, exactly! I couldn’t get that hub to fender distance exactly the same as when the car was on the ground but it was close enough and better than doing the process ‘blind’
@@DriveMX5 Hey man, thanks a lot for your reply! Can you help me out just real quick? I tried your method and I did see an improvement, but I'm still seeing ride heights higher than what the Flyin Miata's website describes. I see about .2-.3" higher in every corner and even .5" higher in front passenger side! For installation, I didn't mess with any of the torque bolts, namely, the lower control arm bolts in the front, and the two bolts in the rear that can be used for alignment plus the bolt that is almost inaccessible. Could my ride heights still be higher than expected because I didn't loosen and retorque those bolts?
@@Fideon it’s possible but I doubt that not loosening those bolts would make such a dramatic difference. What suspension are you installing?
@@DriveMX5 I had Non-Bilstein OEM shocks and springs. Installed OEM Bilstein shocks and Flyin' Miata Springs. The shocks are from a soft top, I made sure of that. Wondering if just getting an alignment will fix some?
@@Fideon I’m also not sure the alignment would make that much of a difference, seems like something else is going on. I would double check to make sure everything is put together properly and the front shocks and springs are on the front of the car and rear shocks and springs are on the rear of the car. If all is good there, drive it around for a few days and put some good miles on it and see if the car settles in and if so then I would get it aligned
Hope you put the Ohlins back on with street tuned spring rates after this video. You made a major step backwards.
I sold them to pay for 77% of the MeisterRs. The other option would be to pay for softer front springs (I was already running 4k on the rear, reduced from 6k when I originally got the Ohlins) and have them revalved. Would’ve been over $1k for all that vs. $400 for getting new suspension from scratch.
Made sense to me to have the opportunity to try a different setup. In hindsight, part of me does wish I got the Ohlins revalved and put diff springs on but I also learned a lot through the process of selecting and installing a fresh set of coilovers, and that was valuable.
I enjoy the MeisterR GT1 and feel they make a really good coilover. May or may not be as good as Ohlins but I enjoy them and they ride and handle well. I’ll be able to have the MeisterRs on track Dec. 11 and that should give me a better idea of how they compare overall.
Most of the videos on TH-cam don't spend this amount of time going over things like bump stops. Find work.
Booo, two-piece coilovers.. do not work well on the ND, IMO. Surprised to see you were swapping from the Ohlins to the Miesters, instead of opting for a single-piece design--though this is assuming you swapped them out because the Ohlins did not ride how you wanted.
(Enjoyed the instruction itself though.)
Hit the nail on the head! Ohlins were quite firm and stiff around East TN roads. MeisterR so far are more comfortable in the vast majority of scenarios and seem to have a wider range of damping adjustment.
After making this video and doing all the research, I was actually thinking that a good single piece like KW or FM Fox would be the way to go and then adjust the bump stop itself to prevent the tires from hitting the fenders.
Which coilovers do you have and what is your opinion of them? I'd love to experiment more with different options, just limited by budget haha
@@DriveMX5 I totally get ya. Hopefully it didn’t sound like I was starting to bash your choice, rather just the marketing and shit that follows two-piece setups.
I was originally on a set of Ohlins, but after dealing with like an inch-and-a-half of travel in the rear (about 12.5” square ride-height) I took them out and replaced them with a set of SuperMiata Xidas.
I am in CO., so the roads are shit here too, and even though it is my daily (for the time being) and I’m on RE71Rs with track rates on the Xidas, they’re friggin great. It’s definitely “stiffer” than what most people would probably prefer for their daily, but I think the setup is perfect…great amount of travel to actually absorb the bigger bumps and with that, a far better overall feeling of control.
I was really 50/50 between the FM Foxxs and Xidas but the Xidas happened to be in stock and I ordered them with updated springs that the Foxxs didn’t have the option for.
@@b2bb I totally understand. I was impressed with Xidas when I drove an NB that had them. The rate was like 12k front and they still felt more comfortable than my Ohlins did with 10k front springs. I used to think 2 piece was superior, I bought into the marketing hype. Only later was I taught that it’s actually a cheaper way to design and produce aftermarket suspension. Maybe some day I’ll try a single piece coilover
@@DriveMX5 Quite literally, the same goes for me. Maybe SuperMiata or FM can hook you up--the latter being more likely. I hope the Meisters are still working better for you in either case!