This is something I didn't consider at first but the more people I talk to about it the more likely it seems. Obviously that sound isn't normal detonation, it's really loud and sounds totally different from det. I just didn't think the engine could run fine, 8-10psi to redline, but higher boost would all of a sudden cause contact. I'm just gonna drive it really light until the new gasket comes in, and see how the head & pistons look when I pull it in a couple weeks.
I'm a firm believer the oem MLS headgasket is the best gasket. I'm running the Apex studs with oem gasket, 600whp 500ft lbs . Not a fan of cometic ,I think they can lead to cracked heads due to the raised portions of the gasket. Flat head, flat deck, flat MLS gasket, solid studs. You don't need to mess with firer rings until 700+ .
Gregg I think the perfect motor to replace the BP with would honestly be built k-series motor. You get vvt, extreme high revs, and a reliable motor at 600hp with e85, h-beam rods and valve spings
Greg, I just wanna say that we love you for pushing the boundaries and documenting uncharted territory for all these years and don't worry if you gotta go back to the basic recipe. We'll always be here for whatever you decide to do! I just pulled the trigger on a Kraken kit myself and can't wait to experience the turbo Miata life, all thanks to you. 🙂❤
Hey Greg, we have a lot of experience in the BMW world with those cut ring gaskets and stud combos. It is generally recommended to check your tq on the studs after some heat cycles. Pretty much every engine needs a retorque (same spec as the first time) and then it's fine. I think your setup would have been fine, if you weren't going crazy with the torque and even going higher the next time. Build K would be very reliable at 450-500hp. Thinking of your drive train this would be the easiest and "cheapest" way... 2.4l would be nuts
Yeah, in hindsight I think I would have been better off just stepping up the turbo size like the rest of the sane people going north of 500. But you know, I'm stubborn hahaha
This is the only time where if I see/hear "Big things coming" I'll believe it's gonna be something huge Im down for anything you do with the miata Your content is peak 👌
The raid shadow psych got me lol. Good video. Problem diagnosis video are some of my favorite despite the stress usually involved. So I appreciate you!
A k24 build would be sick, it’s been great following along and seeing how far you’ve taken that motor but it seems you’ve outgrown it. Whatever you do I’m sure the content will be great.
Thanks for making a video like this. Always nice to learn from other people's experiences, and we appreciate you straying away from the main path to try things that are relatively new.
Nice to see that baby running again and kinda figured something was up when you weren't posting for a while. I appreciate your honesty, and hey man shit happens. My 97 Kia Sephia has the very same BP engine as the Miata, and still runs till this day with about half a million miles on it. The difference is i never boosted or souped it up. I simply left it naturally aspirated and took care of it. I'm actually considering swapped the engine into a Miata where it actually belongs, but it's still within 3 psi on all 4 cylinders after 500,000 miles. I love what you do Greg, and respect your passion for it. I just think that everything has a limit and can't be reliable past it's limit. Can't be sure if it was the studs or the head itself that couldn't hold up to all that pressure. I do greatly appreciate what you do, just wanna help man. I'm a fan
Can't wait to see where you go with this! Honestly, my vote for 400+whp boost is a K24 with a turbo, but N/A it's gonna be LS or nothing. Either way, I'm excited to see what comes next!
V8 has entered the chat K would probably have more vid potential. If i built another v8 it would be a gen4 aluminum 5.3 for ease of precedent and regular use. 400+tq off the line is usually excessive with my current build but damn fun on good traction
I'd honestly say, maybe a Honda J series v6 or an ls swap maybe? More power while being more reliable than a bp at those power levels, but honestly man just do whatever you wanna do, I can sit here and preach all day but it's your car so it should be what you want it to be, sorry if this comes across in a rude or snarky way, I wish you the best and hope to see you uploading soon, no rush tho enjoy life
I feel you, last year I built engine for me, one day I left ratchet on the crank bolt, gone home and the next day - ka-boom it got loose. Had to get it out to recheck everything, I wouldn't do it for the third time... works fine so far.
Thank you Greg your Full transparency of your cars and letting us know what’s up constantly, I hope you never sell the 1992, please don’t, besides that keep on keeping it real! OBD1 FTW
Hope refreshed engine meets your expectation and there is no piston crown interference, very high compression ratio with boost. A cam with lots of duration will lower dynamic compression. if you decide to move away from the BP (recommend to stay the course) then how about a 13b rotary to keep it in the Mazda family?
Your content is always enjoyable to me no matter what direction you go, theres a good amount of useful information i have learned off you as a ~15yr career mechanic. I own an NB1 and can only dream of the levels you have reached. If the BP goes away forever im sure youll still find something grand to do with the car
Nissan CA18DET bottom end with the BP Head. It is a strong bottom end that surprisingly works with the head. Would definitely be cool to see videos about this engine build since I've only found old Forum posts about it.
@@TheCarPassionChannel 😂😂😂 Im gonna go drive my 1.6 (cause it still runs perfectly fine!) away from this comment! Honestly i love that your pushing it and testing how far it can go, but at the same time i also know its like 5+K everytime something like this happens. no matter what ill keep watching. maybe 400 + miata and a new car to beat on, maybe a rx-7 or 323 if you want to stay mazda.
Here in oz we use fire rings their the same but we use copper a head gasket as the copper gasket only sealing the oil and water and the fire rings seal the combustion. Some cars a making over 1000hp+ with this combo
Hi Greg, as many of us you inspired me to work on my own car. After blowing up the stock engine with too much boost then forging it I now (ofcourse) want to make more power. With Miata parts prices going up and everyone doing the same I wanted something different So I chose to start a volvo 5 cilinder turbo swap. If you decide to change out the BP for something cool we would be all for it! You've done so much for the miata community you deserve a more reliable 500 horsepower😁 Kind regards, Joris
Compound boost set up. Tow turbos. Larger feeds smaller. Boost at low rpm AND high rpm. Best of both worlds and ability to keep turbo in their “efficiency” zone.
Unnecessary complicated, power at very low RPM is very hard on the engine and not needed. Use the proper gear instead of lugging the engine, or use a larger displacement engine
That all seems stressful and sucky, sorry thst you're dealing with that. Your videos are such a wealth of knowledge and have been so important in my journey of becoming a Miata person but also just having a better understanding of cars in general l. My Turbo project is making progress, even if everything seems scary at times. Thanks so much!
That moment when you pulled the head and found the issue, debating what to do next - if going through that rebuild is worth it again. I feel ya. Then the next day, back at it with a "lets send it" attitude HAHA. On a side note the videos of the VVT beast helped me put together my NB1 built VVT swap with 6758. My suggestion for the next car: NC 2.5 Swap, cams, tune. Then boost. Then build it using the 2.4 kit. PLEASE (the fact that I have a NC in the garage and right next it is a the engine stand with a 2.5 & cams is just a coincidence.)
I've heard late model Familia Turbo has the strongest BP block. Might be good for a last attempt? How about V8Roadsters subframe and 13BT? Everyone does LS and K swap these days. I'd like to see someone rebuild FC RX7 gearbox internals into the Miata 5 speed housing, an old BoostCruising poster claimed to have done it.
Greg! I am so bummed for you. My vvt 1884cc build is going back together this weekend. Don't give up. You can clean it up and run it! I bet the beast will be fine.
Fighting rust in your cooling system with oil contamination is a "thinking outside the box" method! Hopefully the new gasket will resolve the popping sound!
I’m in the same boat with my turbo 1.6 setup and after going through a couple motors have finally bit the bullet and started collecting k series swap parts
I love your build vids. But what I really want to see is you driving and enjoying your cars. Its the payoff for the end of the builds, and it is a good reminder of why its worth it to work on our cars.
You're most likely right about why those studs would give more clamping force at a lower torque - with a stiffer material being used, the stud is not going to stretch as much as a stud with a lower young's modulus when you're torquing it, resulting in more clamping force.
I had Apex studs combined with Athena cut ring, Torqued to Apex spec. After a little while I discovered one of them had become loose. so I retorqued them all. After sitting a day or two three of the bolts snapped at shot holes through my open bonnet.(!!) (Valve cover not on). Had a few experts look at them and they all think something went wrong in the hardening process of the studs, but we can't know for sure. Everything was reassembled with ARP studs and has been running fine since.. So you might be into something that Athena and Apex is not a good combination.
Love the content Greg, been watching since before broke&boosted. Might be time to venture into K swap territory, 500hp is very easy to achieve on a K. Excited to see where you go from here!
mazda fe3(dohc) if you can find one they are made for a turbo like the bp but a lot more beefy only issue is transmission the block bolts to the engine mounts but sits a bit higher so the engine mounts need to be lower also parts for the engine will be hard to find but send itttt
Hey Greg. I run those cut ring gaskets on a couple motors. As already been said, Its good practice to re-torque heads after a heat cycle. Especially those gaskets. I notice studs being a little looser after running through a cycle with those gaskets, particularly on aluminum heads. My gut feeling is those raised "ridges" on each individual cut ring don't fully cut into head on first round of bolt torque cycle. After heating with the differing expansion characteristics between the iron block and aluminum head, plus a little more time, then allow the "ridges" to further cut into the head with the head eventually seating on the larger surface of the cut metal ring. Thats my theory anyways.,... Also I think your bores will be fine after running a bit. You would not believe some of the junk I've run that did just fine. In fact some of the quickest engines I've run at the track were just about the most worn out too LOL....
Thanks for the boost of confidence on the cylinder walls haha. I certainly intend on running this engine until it does not run anymore, I'm not really a "well I guess I'll rebuild it to be safe" type of guy
From a story standpoint imo theres only a few options for what to do next, stay loyal with little mazdas and do a rotary project (rx8?) or maybe something mazda speed that isnt a miata, second option is betray your roots😈, villain era, GT mustang, do the ole if cant beat em join em, last option, get them dde dollars, its always the right time to tell everyone which exotic car poster you bought at the scholastic book fair right before revealing a super clapped 80s or 90s version of that car lol. I absolutely understand the apprehension continuing with the bp, this has been brutal, i wanna see you see it through but the experimental stuff on your personal street car is truly a passion project and having it be down so much is how passions burn out. At least pausing the trail blazing for a bit so you can get an easy win like the nitrous nb to put some gas back in the tank might put some passion back in thecarpassion. Overjoyed for new carpassion content, hope to see you in the streets more soon.
I still think you should try the compound combo.. you have what you need and a little bit more.. just need to prime the turbo with an eaton SC.. for me thats the only regret i have with my nb miata.. walking away from that sweet sweet setup.. .. after being inspired by your exploring adventures for the last 5-6y i also did my own exploring with alot of concepts and now landed in a bought not built 08 base cayman.. and i am so far very happy.. not saying it would be the right choice for you, but don't be afraid of starting with a clean sheet if things are getting "meh" for you.. .. for us (or at least me) i would enjoy your miata adventures as long as you would do them.. even rince-and-repeating / ironing out the details like this.. the achievments are truly inspiring in all your builds and projects!
@ stud torque- headgasket combo concern. personal experience with cut ring gasket and 1/2" arp studs torqued to 118 Ft Lbs. (yes that is one hundred and eighteen, ARP recommendation), the engine has close to 6.000 miles on it now, and over 1000 hard pulls, so far so good
Having some wierd wiring issues i feel you. i am now converting to a full custom wiring harness and an ECUmaster ECU for my to be drag miata as for engine swaps. i dont much care for LS or K engines, though i would like to see some other boosted engine go into the car, maybe something different in general, as there are lots of pretty cool engines around. maybe even rotary? has not been done in detail on youtube in a miata. and you could still use your tranny and adapter etc. as the bolt pattern is the same.
love your videos, always waiting for the next one to drop! sucks to see your having these issues , im sure you'l work your way round them. i myself recently had an issue with my bp blowing the head gasket (cometic HG and apex torque studs) due to the studs working theyre way loose after about 6months of use. i was advised by bofi that the cometic gaskets dont hold up too well over 18psi of boost. runnning 21psi myself i changed over to the athena cut ring gasket , heres hoping i dont run into similar issues such as yourself
I was on the high compression bandwagon for a bit. But the narrowing of the tuning window and the relatively small gains have moved me back towards the 8.5-9.0 compression ratios for higher boost applications. I think with the smaller turbo the benefits for high compression is really minimal. Was the block decked to make the pistons protrude from the block deck? I would never want that little clearance. Seems like a disaster waiting too happen. I really hope the thicker gasket fixes it all up for you. Long live the BP.
If the only problem on this build is a blown head gasket i'm sure you'll find the solution. Obviously fixing the rust issue and improving the cooling system will help also. I don't see why a similar honda engine like b16 or b18 will last on this power level while this one won't. Also try another leak down test after let's say 500km and re tune it since the cr has been increased
I think it'd be very interesting to do a 13B or Renisis build. I feel there haven't been a ton of well documented TH-cam videos on a Miata powered with that.
i think you have done everything you can to it and if you feel done with it then thats probably a good time to end. I would just fix it up for reliability and then move onto a new project.
Just resurfice the head and bolt it together again with stock headbolts, use hylomar around the water jackets as a procusion. With that type of headgasket i dont think you need stronger headbolts. The cylinderwalls will clean upp by it self, It is not ideal but better then scraping the projekt.
Okey my coment above was made midvideo and now i have finished it. I still belive you should have used the same headgasket but with stock bolt. Then you get the same compression ratio as you had before and you wont warp the head, maybe your exhoust valves will be sealing properly then also 👍👍👌 good luck!
NC with a ecoboost swap, they'll bolt direct to the NC transmission , Ive been leaning towards this in my FC i love rotaries but cost and availability of parts is getting old. Now my concern is im about to re assemble my motor with the vulkan ring and the apex studs i was worried about their recomended 70ft/pd maybe ill just go with the 60 and see what happens
I feel your pain Greg. I have a Ford racing, aluminum 427 in my Mustang. I recently made some internal damage from an inadequate flowing/sized PCV system. Every negative symptom of a bad PCV system, i had it! Even the less talked about piston ring flutters which causes them to break. My leak down and compression tests point towards broken piston rings and lifters. Now i have to take this whole engine out and see what's wrong. It sucks cause i took 6 years to build this Mustang on a rotisserie. I've only have 14k miles on it. I'm looking forward to you next video💪
I’d move over to arp head studs. I bought a set of those apex head studs and they looked gross. Throw them in the lathe and most weren’t even straight. Didn’t feel like i trusted them and bought arp studs instead.
Well, i hope i will have less issues with my project engine. I'm not gonna go with forced induction though. But I'm a little worried, i was thinking of going with supertech 11.5:1 pistons and a 87mm maruha crankshaft. But im not sure if that's gonna work with pistons hight im the cylinder.
For the rusty coolant, check your heat / heater core. The heater core in my NA deteriorated from the inside around the 250k mile mark and it blocked up the coolant flow which caused overheating issues and the coolant would also turn a brown rusty color. As for the motor, Mattman pushed the BP in his Turtle Miata to the limits and eventually went the LS route. I would really like to see a high-powered K-series in a Miata. Might be a far reach, but would a AWD 4G63 be possible in a Miata?
good video man loved the summoning salt reference. my thoughts pushing around 300 on like a track heavy miata is where id call it on a BP but yeah man I even looked into swapping in a Saab turbo engine but yeah K swap?
Smallest turbo for Miata? Looking for spool up and full boost/near full boost at low rpm like 2000 rpm. Not worried about high end power, researching compound turbo setup.
Damn , not going to lie bc of your build i was going to copy it and apply it to my miata , but i think im going to just stick to high 300whp low 400whp
![The ULTIMATE GUIDE To Maxing Out A Turbo! [Compressor Maps Explained, Speed Gauge Install]](/img/n.gif)
Piston are hitting the head.
This is something I didn't consider at first but the more people I talk to about it the more likely it seems. Obviously that sound isn't normal detonation, it's really loud and sounds totally different from det. I just didn't think the engine could run fine, 8-10psi to redline, but higher boost would all of a sudden cause contact. I'm just gonna drive it really light until the new gasket comes in, and see how the head & pistons look when I pull it in a couple weeks.
@@TheCarPassionChannel Potentially at the expense of your rod bearings. That is the only thing that could absorb the impact of piston to head contact.
@@chadl.981 It just keeps getting better 👌
@@TheCarPassionChannel😂
@@TheCarPassionChannel bearings? You mean engine revolution dampeners?
Rotary swap it!
8000% jackstands
Thisss
As a rotary owner I can confirm there's a lot of jackstands, or in my case cinder blocks😊
Dad came back with smokes
you are still welcome to join back with us 1.6 master race enjoyers
Nah the car feels slow enough on wastegate spring as it is, I don't need to downgrade any further 🤣🤣
short nose gang
1.6
@@ldsiverling my fukking spare short nose crank motor with 205k lasted longer then my 140k long nose lol
"I don't know if I will build another BP for this car"
K SWAP INCOMING BOYS
In for k swap or ls content.
Nobody can say you didn't give the BP a fair shot.
Good luck Grape
Nooo!
I’ve done the k24a2 swap and probably would suggest the k24z for a turbo build. Way easier for the turbo manifold fit. K24A2 for NA power though.
@@BonetteRacing Yep. That is what I have and its awesome.
I’m going to hop on the k swap train. That is what I’ve been thinking about and I’d love to see how you tackle that and what you learn along the way!
Shhhh let the bp win, that motor looks too good in that bay
I'm a firm believer the oem MLS headgasket is the best gasket. I'm running the Apex studs with oem gasket, 600whp 500ft lbs . Not a fan of cometic ,I think they can lead to cracked heads due to the raised portions of the gasket. Flat head, flat deck, flat MLS gasket, solid studs. You don't need to mess with firer rings until 700+ .
Please get a NC as I'd like to learn about anchor tech and how prevailing winds affect top speed.
Gregg I think the perfect motor to replace the BP with would honestly be built k-series motor. You get vvt, extreme high revs, and a reliable motor at 600hp with e85, h-beam rods and valve spings
Summoning salt reference, a true man of culture 👌
Greg, I just wanna say that we love you for pushing the boundaries and documenting uncharted territory for all these years and don't worry if you gotta go back to the basic recipe. We'll always be here for whatever you decide to do! I just pulled the trigger on a Kraken kit myself and can't wait to experience the turbo Miata life, all thanks to you. 🙂❤
LOL at the Summoning Salt shoutout
Gregg was once on TV, he built an insane BP, it blew the head gasket, was tossed in a basket and went with an LS3
I'm so glad you just sent it. I was yelling at my screen "Just send it" and you did 😂
Upload anything but don’t abandon us craigory 😢
Hey Greg,
we have a lot of experience in the BMW world with those cut ring gaskets and stud combos.
It is generally recommended to check your tq on the studs after some heat cycles.
Pretty much every engine needs a retorque (same spec as the first time) and then it's fine.
I think your setup would have been fine, if you weren't going crazy with the torque and even going higher the next time.
Build K would be very reliable at 450-500hp. Thinking of your drive train this would be the easiest and "cheapest" way... 2.4l would be nuts
Yeah, in hindsight I think I would have been better off just stepping up the turbo size like the rest of the sane people going north of 500. But you know, I'm stubborn hahaha
J series swap? 😁😊
I love what you do and I hope you keep doing it ,for me an ultimate Miata only has 200 hp lol and starts every time
ITB build maybe?😮
This is the only time where if I see/hear "Big things coming" I'll believe it's gonna be something huge
Im down for anything you do with the miata
Your content is peak 👌
i really enjoy how much technical detail you get into, im learning a ton for my own miata
The raid shadow psych got me lol. Good video. Problem diagnosis video are some of my favorite despite the stress usually involved. So I appreciate you!
oh Greg Going Darkside with us NC boyz!
A k24 build would be sick, it’s been great following along and seeing how far you’ve taken that motor but it seems you’ve outgrown it. Whatever you do I’m sure the content will be great.
Thanks for making a video like this. Always nice to learn from other people's experiences, and we appreciate you straying away from the main path to try things that are relatively new.
Nice to see that baby running again and kinda figured something was up when you weren't posting for a while. I appreciate your honesty, and hey man shit happens. My 97 Kia Sephia has the very same BP engine as the Miata, and still runs till this day with about half a million miles on it. The difference is i never boosted or souped it up. I simply left it naturally aspirated and took care of it. I'm actually considering swapped the engine into a Miata where it actually belongs, but it's still within 3 psi on all 4 cylinders after 500,000 miles. I love what you do Greg, and respect your passion for it. I just think that everything has a limit and can't be reliable past it's limit. Can't be sure if it was the studs or the head itself that couldn't hold up to all that pressure. I do greatly appreciate what you do, just wanna help man. I'm a fan
Last summer your OG head gasket video helped me through my first big job on my 95. This video was nostalgic. :)
I felt this, I have had my miata on jackstands for over a year for a j-swap
Can't wait to see where you go with this! Honestly, my vote for 400+whp boost is a K24 with a turbo, but N/A it's gonna be LS or nothing. Either way, I'm excited to see what comes next!
V8 has entered the chat
K would probably have more vid potential. If i built another v8 it would be a gen4 aluminum 5.3 for ease of precedent and regular use. 400+tq off the line is usually excessive with my current build but damn fun on good traction
I'd honestly say, maybe a Honda J series v6 or an ls swap maybe? More power while being more reliable than a bp at those power levels, but honestly man just do whatever you wanna do, I can sit here and preach all day but it's your car so it should be what you want it to be, sorry if this comes across in a rude or snarky way, I wish you the best and hope to see you uploading soon, no rush tho enjoy life
I feel you, last year I built engine for me, one day I left ratchet on the crank bolt, gone home and the next day - ka-boom it got loose. Had to get it out to recheck everything, I wouldn't do it for the third time... works fine so far.
Thank you Greg your Full transparency of your cars and letting us know what’s up constantly, I hope you never sell the 1992, please don’t, besides that keep on keeping it real! OBD1 FTW
Hope refreshed engine meets your expectation and there is no piston crown interference, very high compression ratio with boost. A cam with lots of duration will lower dynamic compression. if you decide to move away from the BP (recommend to stay the course) then how about a 13b rotary to keep it in the Mazda family?
Been missing the Miata dad 😉 Keep on keeping on 🤙🏻 Looking forward to more projects and the very useful in-depth information you provide
Your content is always enjoyable to me no matter what direction you go, theres a good amount of useful information i have learned off you as a ~15yr career mechanic.
I own an NB1 and can only dream of the levels you have reached.
If the BP goes away forever im sure youll still find something grand to do with the car
Nissan CA18DET bottom end with the BP Head. It is a strong bottom end that surprisingly works with the head. Would definitely be cool to see videos about this engine build since I've only found old Forum posts about it.
What.... Somehow the CA18 coolant passages, head bolt pattern, cylinder spacing, all the same as a BP??
@@TheCarPassionChannelNah he must talking crap, go find a pic of a ca18det block it's obvious the oil feed is in the wrong place.
Day 4 maybe 5 of suggesting the nasa proven Lnc 1.6, you can put 1.8 harmonic damper on it to slow it down a bit
NASA approved because you don't need much power to drive in Lunar gravity
@@TheCarPassionChannel 😂😂😂 Im gonna go drive my 1.6 (cause it still runs perfectly fine!) away from this comment! Honestly i love that your pushing it and testing how far it can go, but at the same time i also know its like 5+K everytime something like this happens. no matter what ill keep watching. maybe 400 + miata and a new car to beat on, maybe a rx-7 or 323 if you want to stay mazda.
Here in oz we use fire rings their the same but we use copper a head gasket as the copper gasket only sealing the oil and water and the fire rings seal the combustion. Some cars a making over 1000hp+ with this combo
Hi Greg, as many of us you inspired me to work on my own car. After blowing up the stock engine with too much boost then forging it I now (ofcourse) want to make more power.
With Miata parts prices going up and everyone doing the same I wanted something different So I chose to start a volvo 5 cilinder turbo swap.
If you decide to change out the BP for something cool we would be all for it!
You've done so much for the miata community you deserve a more reliable 500 horsepower😁
Kind regards, Joris
Compound boost set up. Tow turbos. Larger feeds smaller. Boost at low rpm AND high rpm. Best of both worlds and ability to keep turbo in their “efficiency” zone.
Unnecessary complicated, power at very low RPM is very hard on the engine and not needed. Use the proper gear instead of lugging the engine, or use a larger displacement engine
Try evaporust to clean out the rust from coolant system. Back flush everything once you're done.
the summoning salt bit.....I love you.
I have a 500 horsepower Subaru build on the go right now so I understand what what it means play stupid games Win stupid prizes
would be cool to something different, like an LE5, LFX, HR swap, etc
but I'm definitely happy to see whatever you do in the future. :)
That all seems stressful and sucky, sorry thst you're dealing with that. Your videos are such a wealth of knowledge and have been so important in my journey of becoming a Miata person but also just having a better understanding of cars in general l. My Turbo project is making progress, even if everything seems scary at times. Thanks so much!
That moment when you pulled the head and found the issue, debating what to do next - if going through that rebuild is worth it again. I feel ya. Then the next day, back at it with a "lets send it" attitude HAHA. On a side note the videos of the VVT beast helped me put together my NB1 built VVT swap with 6758.
My suggestion for the next car: NC 2.5 Swap, cams, tune. Then boost. Then build it using the 2.4 kit. PLEASE (the fact that I have a NC in the garage and right next it is a the engine stand with a 2.5 & cams is just a coincidence.)
I've heard late model Familia Turbo has the strongest BP block. Might be good for a last attempt? How about V8Roadsters subframe and 13BT? Everyone does LS and K swap these days. I'd like to see someone rebuild FC RX7 gearbox internals into the Miata 5 speed housing, an old BoostCruising poster claimed to have done it.
rebuild it one last time and at least your head is clean, no remords. and if it breaks one more time. you go for another level. STAY STRONG !
Great things to come!!
Greg! I am so bummed for you. My vvt 1884cc build is going back together this weekend. Don't give up. You can clean it up and run it! I bet the beast will be fine.
Fighting rust in your cooling system with oil contamination is a "thinking outside the box" method! Hopefully the new gasket will resolve the popping sound!
I’m in the same boat with my turbo 1.6 setup and after going through a couple motors have finally bit the bullet and started collecting k series swap parts
I love your build vids. But what I really want to see is you driving and enjoying your cars. Its the payoff for the end of the builds, and it is a good reminder of why its worth it to work on our cars.
You're most likely right about why those studs would give more clamping force at a lower torque - with a stiffer material being used, the stud is not going to stretch as much as a stud with a lower young's modulus when you're torquing it, resulting in more clamping force.
I had Apex studs combined with Athena cut ring, Torqued to Apex spec. After a little while I discovered one of them had become loose. so I retorqued them all. After sitting a day or two three of the bolts snapped at shot holes through my open bonnet.(!!) (Valve cover not on). Had a few experts look at them and they all think something went wrong in the hardening process of the studs, but we can't know for sure. Everything was reassembled with ARP studs and has been running fine since.. So you might be into something that Athena and Apex is not a good combination.
Completely vote for a K swap. Your videos have been the best in getting me to work on my miata and I can’t wait to see a properly done k swap
There are lots and lots of K Miata videos. It’s not uncharted territory
I would love either a rotary swap or K swap NA! in the car passion channel. But a dorito swap would really be interesting
K series for tried and tested route or rotary to push the boundaries still 👍
And this is why my NA (which I bought new in 1991) is still stock!
Love the content Greg, been watching since before broke&boosted. Might be time to venture into K swap territory, 500hp is very easy to achieve on a K. Excited to see where you go from here!
Master of suspense!
new video makes me happy
Hey Greg so pleased to hear from you again, hoping that the next build stays Japanese, I would love to see a JZ in lil red!
mazda fe3(dohc) if you can find one they are made for a turbo like the bp but a lot more beefy only issue is transmission the block bolts to the engine mounts but sits a bit higher so the engine mounts need to be lower also parts for the engine will be hard to find but send itttt
Hey Greg. I run those cut ring gaskets on a couple motors. As already been said, Its good practice to re-torque heads after a heat cycle. Especially those gaskets. I notice studs being a little looser after running through a cycle with those gaskets, particularly on aluminum heads. My gut feeling is those raised "ridges" on each individual cut ring don't fully cut into head on first round of bolt torque cycle. After heating with the differing expansion characteristics between the iron block and aluminum head, plus a little more time, then allow the "ridges" to further cut into the head with the head eventually seating on the larger surface of the cut metal ring. Thats my theory anyways.,...
Also I think your bores will be fine after running a bit. You would not believe some of the junk I've run that did just fine. In fact some of the quickest engines I've run at the track were just about the most worn out too LOL....
Thanks for the boost of confidence on the cylinder walls haha. I certainly intend on running this engine until it does not run anymore, I'm not really a "well I guess I'll rebuild it to be safe" type of guy
From a story standpoint imo theres only a few options for what to do next, stay loyal with little mazdas and do a rotary project (rx8?) or maybe something mazda speed that isnt a miata, second option is betray your roots😈, villain era, GT mustang, do the ole if cant beat em join em, last option, get them dde dollars, its always the right time to tell everyone which exotic car poster you bought at the scholastic book fair right before revealing a super clapped 80s or 90s version of that car lol. I absolutely understand the apprehension continuing with the bp, this has been brutal, i wanna see you see it through but the experimental stuff on your personal street car is truly a passion project and having it be down so much is how passions burn out. At least pausing the trail blazing for a bit so you can get an easy win like the nitrous nb to put some gas back in the tank might put some passion back in thecarpassion. Overjoyed for new carpassion content, hope to see you in the streets more soon.
G..I am sorry to hear that bro , Love your channel man.. I hope you stick with it !!!
Lol the only channel i would gladly sit through a raid shadow legend advertisement!
🤣🤣 thank you
Time for a k20/k24 :D much love for your efforts :D
I think the engine will be safe and happy with a thicker headgasket. Those pistons are nuts!
Swap is definitely the way to go
I still think you should try the compound combo.. you have what you need and a little bit more.. just need to prime the turbo with an eaton SC.. for me thats the only regret i have with my nb miata.. walking away from that sweet sweet setup.. .. after being inspired by your exploring adventures for the last 5-6y i also did my own exploring with alot of concepts and now landed in a bought not built 08 base cayman.. and i am so far very happy.. not saying it would be the right choice for you, but don't be afraid of starting with a clean sheet if things are getting "meh" for you.. .. for us (or at least me) i would enjoy your miata adventures as long as you would do them.. even rince-and-repeating / ironing out the details like this.. the achievments are truly inspiring in all your builds and projects!
Got out the game a while ago but this brings back all the feels :/
@ stud torque- headgasket combo concern. personal experience with cut ring gasket and 1/2" arp studs torqued to 118 Ft Lbs. (yes that is one hundred and eighteen, ARP recommendation), the engine has close to 6.000 miles on it now, and over 1000 hard pulls, so far so good
Turbo KL swap time 👀 The best of the K engines!
There's like a 10 second clip of a turbo KL Miata on youtube and that thought hasn't left my memory since watching it
Looking forward to some NC content ;)
Do an NC Greg
Having some wierd wiring issues i feel you. i am now converting to a full custom wiring harness and an ECUmaster ECU for my to be drag miata
as for engine swaps. i dont much care for LS or K engines, though i would like to see some other boosted engine go into the car, maybe something different in general, as there are lots of pretty cool engines around. maybe even rotary? has not been done in detail on youtube in a miata. and you could still use your tranny and adapter etc. as the bolt pattern is the same.
Would love to see you build a s13 coupe, and do a 500hp sr20 2.2 stroker build.. big project.. cosmetically lol
I wonder what would happen if you added evaporust to the cooling system.
ill clean itself with the rings nothing to worry about the cylinders a couble of miles of break in with rich mixtures is my recomendation
love your videos, always waiting for the next one to drop! sucks to see your having these issues , im sure you'l work your way round them. i myself recently had an issue with my bp blowing the head gasket (cometic HG and apex torque studs) due to the studs working theyre way loose after about 6months of use. i was advised by bofi that the cometic gaskets dont hold up too well over 18psi of boost. runnning 21psi myself i changed over to the athena cut ring gasket , heres hoping i dont run into similar issues such as yourself
I was on the high compression bandwagon for a bit. But the narrowing of the tuning window and the relatively small gains have moved me back towards the 8.5-9.0 compression ratios for higher boost applications. I think with the smaller turbo the benefits for high compression is really minimal.
Was the block decked to make the pistons protrude from the block deck? I would never want that little clearance. Seems like a disaster waiting too happen. I really hope the thicker gasket fixes it all up for you. Long live the BP.
If the only problem on this build is a blown head gasket i'm sure you'll find the solution. Obviously fixing the rust issue and improving the cooling system will help also. I don't see why a similar honda engine like b16 or b18 will last on this power level while this one won't. Also try another leak down test after let's say 500km and re tune it since the cr has been increased
I think it'd be very interesting to do a 13B or Renisis build. I feel there haven't been a ton of well documented TH-cam videos on a Miata powered with that.
b234 or b204 swap, could make similar numbers on stock motor, plus theres good adapter options for the trans youre running
i think you have done everything you can to it and if you feel done with it then thats probably a good time to end. I would just fix it up for reliability and then move onto a new project.
Just resurfice the head and bolt it together again with stock headbolts, use hylomar around the water jackets as a procusion. With that type of headgasket i dont think you need stronger headbolts. The cylinderwalls will clean upp by it self, It is not ideal but better then scraping the projekt.
Okey my coment above was made midvideo and now i have finished it. I still belive you should have used the same headgasket but with stock bolt. Then you get the same compression ratio as you had before and you wont warp the head, maybe your exhoust valves will be sealing properly then also 👍👍👌 good luck!
I just pulled my head too.Spun a bearing making 300🥴. Took 45 mins to pull
Hey, love the speed work on the headgasket job! I'm a big fan, don't give up, but if you do, K swap!
Love your videos! They are really inspiring to work on my own NB!
13b if you keep the red na.
NC with a ecoboost swap, they'll bolt direct to the NC transmission , Ive been leaning towards this in my FC i love rotaries but cost and availability of parts is getting old.
Now my concern is im about to re assemble my motor with the vulkan ring and the apex studs i was worried about their recomended 70ft/pd maybe ill just go with the 60 and see what happens
I feel your pain Greg. I have a Ford racing, aluminum 427 in my Mustang. I recently made some internal damage from an inadequate flowing/sized PCV system. Every negative symptom of a bad PCV system, i had it! Even the less talked about piston ring flutters which causes them to break. My leak down and compression tests point towards broken piston rings and lifters. Now i have to take this whole engine out and see what's wrong. It sucks cause i took 6 years to build this Mustang on a rotisserie. I've only have 14k miles on it. I'm looking forward to you next video💪
I’d move over to arp head studs. I bought a set of those apex head studs and they looked gross. Throw them in the lathe and most weren’t even straight. Didn’t feel like i trusted them and bought arp studs instead.
Well, i hope i will have less issues with my project engine.
I'm not gonna go with forced induction though.
But I'm a little worried, i was thinking of going with supertech 11.5:1 pistons and a 87mm maruha crankshaft. But im not sure if that's gonna work with pistons hight im the cylinder.
For the rusty coolant, check your heat / heater core. The heater core in my NA deteriorated from the inside around the 250k mile mark and it blocked up the coolant flow which caused overheating issues and the coolant would also turn a brown rusty color.
As for the motor, Mattman pushed the BP in his Turtle Miata to the limits and eventually went the LS route. I would really like to see a high-powered K-series in a Miata.
Might be a far reach, but would a AWD 4G63 be possible in a Miata?
Yeahhh I'm on the original heater core at 231k miles (odo is 3k off), That's definitely worth looking into
good video man loved the summoning salt reference. my thoughts pushing around 300 on like a track heavy miata is where id call it on a BP but yeah man I even looked into swapping in a Saab turbo engine but yeah K swap?
Smallest turbo for Miata? Looking for spool up and full boost/near full boost at low rpm like 2000 rpm. Not worried about high end power, researching compound turbo setup.
Nothing wrong with the block, just visually not nice but it’s nothing bad. Use 50/50 distilled to glycol. To get more corrosion resistance.
Damn , not going to lie bc of your build i was going to copy it and apply it to my miata , but i think im going to just stick to high 300whp low 400whp