Its also very possible that someone who did take care of the engine owned it for a while and did all the mods and work on it, then the next owner is the one that let it go to waste. That makes the most sense to me anyway.
I have an all original 1.6 with 339k miles and still going strong with no smoke or lifter tick. Been using full synthetic every 3k. Rock solid motors the BP series.
This engine was severely overheated---the scuffing on the piston skirts is testament to that. Whoever owned that car deserves the Darwin award, because the Miata 1.6/1.8 are some of the most bulletproof engines of all time
The classic “piston rebored cylinders” 😂 tbh whoever overheats any engine to the point of destruction deserves a Darwin Award, a coolant gauge in the red is a massive signal you should pull over and call a tow truck
@@aidanbrooks771 don’t forget that the NA/NB coolant temp gauge is notoriously useless. From about 160 to 225 deg F the needle will stay in the same spot making you think everything is hunky dory. If the needle starts to move up above normal it’s probably already too late and the engine is overheating.
Here to find out what I probably did to blow my engine 😂 regarding the gauge being in the red-neither the oil pressure gauge nor the temp gauge ever changed/always read normal on mine. Of course now realizing they probably weren’t functional but 😅
The engine definitely was not overheated 🤡 mans can’t even see the engine and person and is taking guesses please just do your research before making that type of comment
The fact that the rods did not just come flying out of it is a testament to Mazda's design and choice to use larger rod bolts. Once the bearings go, the hammering just trashes the bolts and causes them to fatigue and snap, putting nice scenic view windows in the block.
I’ve been waiting for a bp teardown! These motors are incredible if they’re taken care of, my boosted 1.6 has been running on 20psi and e50 for almost a year now and it’s still going strong. I’m very religious on maintenance and letting the engine warm up but once it’s up to temp I thrash the thing and it just keeps coming back for more😂
Ditto my supercharged Dodge Charger 3.6. It has almost 600 hp to the flywheel and it's into it's 2nd year and about 8,000 miles on 93. Not a hiccup. I don't thrash it however, but I did smoke a Hellcat with it. He had no idea what I was.
@@6Sparx9 this is my third Miata and fifth in the family. Probably going to hold onto this until summer and sell it to get the new GR Corolla that’s coming out.
I had a 1.8L 2000 for 8 years, most of that with a centrifugal supercharger on it, 15PSI and 235 wheel horsepower. These engines are awesome, I've heard of one 1.6 engine making around 300 whp. Miatas are the most fun you can have with your clothes on.
All this work and aftermarket crap and they didn't even bother to do a coolant reroute or regular oil changes. It's no wonder this thing's dickered. That takes a special kind of idiot because these engines are practically indestructible if left at stock power. That cheapo Fram filter juxtaposed with the expensive Radium fuel rail says it all.
As soon as I saw how tight the plugs were, I though "wait till he gets to that Fram filter with the "enhanced grip for his pleasure" that just screams overtightened"... If it isn't, I'll be surprised, but I haven't gotten that far yet.
So much time, effort, and money to make this engine look like it goes fast but can't be bothered to spend the $50 on an oil change every couple months. Pure genius.
The screws for the oil pump plate are almost certainly JIS and not Phillips. A Phillips bit can usually work with some care, but a set of JIS bits would be a good investment for someone who tears down engines every week.
@@agenericaccount3935 he gave a whole speech about him working on those engines in the beginning.. you wouldve thought he would have set the bits aside as prior to recording and breaking down the engine.
Almost certainly JIS. For those that don't know, there is always a DOT on the head of a JIS screw/bolt in the solid area next to the X where the bit slides in.
lol my first engine teardown was a blown 1.6 from my 92 miata. I blew 4 holes in the engine, 2 in the oil pan and 2 through the block with my #2 connecting rod delete engine had exactly 289,122 miles on it. ran pretty good until I took it drifting in the mountains I have yet to sell the parts tho, they need to be cleaned up and I've been lazy
dude thats awesome. My dad was also a mazda master tech! I remember being a kid going through the showroom and looking at the old school mazdas. Its actually what made me fall in love with the last generation rx7. I remember it looking like a space ship compared to the 90s proteges, 626s and old b trucks. Cool man, & very relatable.
Those style cylinder heads from Japan often have scored cam journals. The babbit material is not a serviceable bearing. That style meaning DOHC with shim and bucket. VVT isn't relevant to the problem.
In the mid 90s i had a history teacher with long curly greasy hippy hair (loved telling woodstock stories) who would hit on girls in my class (married a former student of his) and he drove a Miata.
I appreciate you doing this as it gives me the big picture of the engine, versus a timing belt change or installing a starter, etc. That big picture view gives me greater confidence in taking on harder projects since I understand the engine better due to your videos. I have a 2007 Mini Cooper - may need a timing chain service AND a Turbo (and cat)... not sure if that one is financially totaled.. will see. Also a 1990 Miata which we have setup for AutoX and seriously looking at power upgrades.... Engine seems solid at 155K, and considering the supercharger for AutoX... and this video makes me more comfortable in taking that on. Thanks and best of luck!
Great video gives me a good idea on how the inside of my 1992 miata's engine must look like. Yes mine is a 1.6 so not the exact same engine but very close overall. But I know mine is way cleaner than that inside. Mine only has 170k miles so barely broken in. Looks like that 1.8 had a blown head gasket as well which would explain some of the smoking and the fact that the pistons looked steam cleaned. I would like to see a teardown on either a miata 1.6 or a 2004-2006 colorado/canyon 2.8 4 cylinder engine.
you see that ball thats pressed into the oil passage in the crank, When I worked On twin cam 4 banger Alfa,s they would spilt the plug out and you lost 30 pounds of oil pressure
Oil pan ingredients: Sparkles (from fortified bearings with vitamin C) and lots of sludge from lack of maintenance (Fram oil filter and onions...extra) LOL!
These engines are super hearty but they love to leak oil once they get up around 100,000 miles. I don't know why you would spend extra money on the VVT head if you had no plan to activate it, probably blew a head gasket at some point and wanted to upgrade later, but never got around to it once they saw all the work involved. Also unless you're racing or doing stuff with boost, there is no reason to go with anything other than the stock NGK wires and coils that these cars come with from factory.
If your dad was a Mazda Master tech he probably would have been a little bit disappointed in the way you pulled that oil pan. If I was just doing a reseal that probably would have gotten me fired.
This engine is somewhat of an inigma. You have more expensive than necessary parts (fuel rail, plug wires, intake, and the VVT head), but poor maintainance and repair practices making this a more expensive but worse car than a stock
Yeah, I find that odd. Maybe a victim of wasted money based on forum advice? When I was younger and visited forums I always saw people upgrading their fuel rails and pump for builds with like 30hp over stock... I supercharged my car, converted it to E85 (with larger injectors) and the stock fuel system still kept up, and I still have the car 100k miles later. I just didn't understand why people were wasting such time and money on un necessary fuel components, easy $500+ but it was "common knowledge" on the forum and everyone was doing it.
I wish Miatas stayed cheap…have you done a 2.4 ecotec yet? I have one tore down that has some major maintenance issues! Might make a good tear down video! Nobody takes care of them!
One of the most enjoyable edits I could possibly see would be the cracking loose of a series of bolts. It's such a satisfying feeling/sound when they crack loose. ASMR for old people.
VVT wasn't plugged in as he either didn't use it or he has a vvt-tuner installed to control it and took it with him. The cam sensor on the valve cover wasn't used because he's using the older NA cam sensor you see on the rear of the exhaust cam.
This is my newest favorite channel on You Tube. I really enjoy seeing the carnage on your engine teardowns. I've been an auto mechanic all my life and have seen all of this before. Keep up the good work.
I sure wish you could get your hands on a LT5 not the new one the old Lotus/Mercury Marine DOHC also do you ever have dreams about taking engines apart when you’re asleep?
I would of loved to see what the insides of my 678,000 mile 4.3 engine in my 91 Chevy, but it still ran pretty darn good so I ended up selling the truck and not rebuilding or dropping in a new engine lol.
Your review of common rust spots to look out for on Miatas was the first video I found you on. Came for the Miatas, stayed for the engine tear downs. I can see where you would do good business on Miata parts. Great cheap first cars for young guys to learn to work on. Simple, robust, and easy to get parts for.
I daily drive HR-V with no vtec, that was able to burn 1l of oil per 100km, being close to rev limiter disabled rear view mirrors every time until i changed oil to 10W60 :v This piece of shit engine still is spinning one wheel if clutch is dumped and shoots nicely with awd engaged Car did 300000km and like 10 years of zero maintenance, i bought it this year for under 400USD to try something different after wrecking nicer car
I saw a parade of a thousand Miatas in Gunma, Japan. I was literally passing them in the oncoming lane for 10 minutes. However, there may have been a truck in the lead towing them all.
I have an original BP-4W 1.8l in my '00 Miata, with somewhere around 200,700 miles on it. Runs just as well now as it did when I bought the car with 158k. What a great little engine. It burns some oil, and has some signs of burnt valves but it still runs pretty decently all things considered. I give it oil changes with synthetic every 3k and it's done well for me. Never had to take the engine apart. As long as a BP has oil and doesn't get overheated too bad it'll be fine.
Ive never been around the BG engine, the B6 and the B6T on the other hand, plenty. As ive owned many 323 turbos, some of the failures ive come across. The most common one on the short nose, the good old worn keyway. Also seen oil starvation, car had one lady owner from new, 66k on the clock, guessing it was caused by infrequent oil changes. The bottom oil feed was blocked, resulting in no oil up top, exhaust cam seized, and the pulley snapped off the end. Thrust washer failure, found them in the sump all mangled up, crank and block had worn each other out. Excessive smoke caused by worn rings, done a few headgaskets over the years on them, will only use Payen ones now, as i found they are the best, wouldnt bother with cheapo ones. The current engine in my 323 came out of an MX5. Long nose crank, paid 99p for it off ebay, local, nobody else bid on it. Rebuilt it in my shed, fitted B6T rods as they're thicker, and adapted the engine, as there are slight differences, nothing major. Ive done around 15000 miles on it since, been sweet as.
Took me a minute to figure that out, "Peddle Car"... Then i found this with the correct spelling "Peddle is an online car-buying service", i didnt even know they existed...
Eric, my name is Dave Hanna. I live in Florida, my mother-in-law gave me her 1995 special edition Merlot Miata. It has a 1.8L 245,000 miles on it. I bought a engine block and crankshaft on Ebay. Would I be able to use this block in my NA? Is the bottom end the same as a NB or did I shoot myself in the foot. While my car runs good, AC,PS cruise control and 5 speed. I want to build a motor at least 270hp. The machine shop near me says 3 months before they can look at it.
I had one of these engines in a Mercury Tracer LTS and it was marvelous. So much smoother and more powerful than Ford's 1.9L SEFI (or CVH) engine. If it hadn't been my brother's high school car, it probably wouldn't have been burning oil quite so badly, but it lasted nearly 300,000 miles with only regular maintenance and a couple timing belts.
You we’re talking about 6.6 duramax and 6.7 Cummins for 600$ I’m looking for a 6.7 powerstroke to rebuild but not wanting to pay 5-6K just to rebuild it for higher power any suggestions ,advice would be great
That was a very long winded way of saying you were wrong and don't want to hear people correct you. BP blocks don't care what head is attached. BPZ3 is the head, put a BPZ3 head on a block from a BP05....you have a BP...Z3. So you are still half wrong no matter how you look at it.
have you ever done a K series mazda v6? i have rebuilt a KL 2.5 and a KF 2.0 this year, been in love with theese things for multiple reasons especially the sound they make, but after grenading and putting back together them, i think they are very well engineered and good motors.
Excellent engines. I had a few KLDE's and got a KLZE a few years back. True straight neck, low miles from Japan. Using a Millenia ecu. Tons of fun with mtx. The BP head looks just like a DE head to me. Wondering how much of that "not running right" was the leaky valve cover shorting out the plugs AND causing a vacuum leak.
@@pgtmr2713 i currently run a millenia klde (the square port one with the normal de cams) with some portmatching, headers, intake, ran off of a kl47 ecu in my lantis. It goes like a bat out of hell compared ton the original kfde engine.
@@neubauer.p That is awesome! I love the Lantis/323 F, in teal. I've got a KL47, (OBDI ecu,) around here somewhere. Also a KLG8 from a 626, that's the Ford EEC-V one with wasted spark coil pack. All 4 KL intakes as well. Basically future proofed with some junkyard shopping. I wonder what kind of power you're making 180-190? I'm running the KLL6 ecu 98+ Millenia with an adapter harness, in a 94 Ford Probe GT. Absolutely as savage as 210-215 gets. You should see if you can find a whole KL31 out there. Mine's currently down for a wheel bearing. I'll have it back on the road soon.
@@pgtmr2713 i want to run the KLK1 ecu thats maf as well but obd2. Pretty rare where i live so i guess ill have to get it on ebay or somewhere. The butt dyno says around 170-180hp, but i want to take it to a real dyno in the future, but i need to sort out the ecu first. Also im working on adapting the cruise control from the millenia into the lantis. The main issue is space, if you drop a 10mm socket into the engine bay of the damn thing, it never hits the ground :D
@@neubauer.p I don't think you want a KLK1, it will be the same as a KL47. Maf, with a gray OBDI connector. I don't think they're OBDII at all. I have a KLK1 but unfortunately it's the one I decided to disassemble. I chose that one to open up since there was almost nothing out there on that ecu. I think it's a Xedos 6 (Euro specific 626,) ecu. Beyond that there's nothing else on it. It wasn't even on a compiled list on ProbeTalk as to what it was from. Part of the problem is it's an older style ecu from just before OBDII. So it's unknown whether it acts like an OBDI or OBDII ecu. OBDII ecu's make adjustments to a/f ratio. OBDI VAF ecu's follow a set map, period, based on VAF and throttle. KL47 and KLK1 both have the benefit of a MAF instead of VAF, but, I don't know if they strictly follow a fuel map or if they can adjust like the OBDII ecu's. It might be a waste tracking one down, comparing wiring to the KL47, making it work for 0 benefit. Whereas, 98+ Millenia ecu, is a known quantity, tested, dyno-ed 10-12 hp tq. One guy even turbo-ed without tune to 12 psi, I believe he said 8 psi would be much safer limit. Not sure if he used different injectors or what.
Was this filmed the same day as the Mercedes 5.8L M137 S600/CL600? I'm watching the teardowns in order and I see what looks like a familiar oil pump in a drip pan on the ground at around the 2 minute mark *chuckles* (also, same shirt but that doesn't mean anything)
I bet if you cut open that filter it will tell us a story. I have seen 5 engines ruined by fram extra guard oil filters. Glue, cardboard, rust, they are terrible, awful, horrible, not good oil filters!
Have you ever pulled apart a Toyota K motor? Like from a 70s Corolla? They also have oversized rod and main hardware like this. It's like half a V8. Those were the first motors I ever worked on and everything else looks weak and small by comparison, until now anyway.
Like others I have had Miatas (both 1.6 and 1.8) with well over 200k miles on them. I have kept up all maintenance and when I pulled the motors the cylinder walls and bearing looked like new!!!
I would have to say the protege 2.0 was better I beat the fuck out of mine got 220,000 and still sold it for more then 2 k to some one who already had 3 down in pr and knows that are worth the month you can’t kill then
This is the wrong venue so forgive me. Any progress on the 7 to 9 GM LS2 6.0 V8 for the Sierra? A bore seems like an easy fix but I’m sure it’s not worth it. That’s a nice truck.
Pay me now or pay me later. Curious, but do you use J.I.S. (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers? I bought a set but have yet to use them. I heard that J.I.S. screws are slightly different which result in people damaging screws using number two Phillips drivers on Japanese cars.
Always amazed at how long an engine last when you consider what it actually goes through
True. But when you have warm good oil in theory nothing wears out.
I have had a 97 yata for 12 years and always get metal chunks in the drained oil I change every 1000 miles. Been running great the whole time!
That poor engine...It’s sad that for having an inordinate amount of heavy engine work (timing, head gasket) that simple maintenance is what killed it.
right, it just p!$$es me off some folks treat wonderful little cars so poorly.
Its also very possible that someone who did take care of the engine owned it for a while and did all the mods and work on it, then the next owner is the one that let it go to waste. That makes the most sense to me anyway.
I have an all original 1.6 with 339k miles and still going strong with no smoke or lifter tick. Been using full synthetic every 3k. Rock solid motors the BP series.
i can’t get my lifter tick to stay away even after swapping lifters to a set of kia lifters
tell me that's a short nose
Yep, clean oil is the key yet, so widely neglected.
@@Stiddo It all depends on the oil you use also, i found shell Helix 10/40w keeps mine quiet longer than some other oils.
@@Glenn7719 I use Rotella T6 5w40, which people have conflicting opinions on. Totally eliminated lifter tick
Bet that thing was knocking more than a Jehovah’s Witness
This engine was severely overheated---the scuffing on the piston skirts is testament to that. Whoever owned that car deserves the Darwin award, because the Miata 1.6/1.8 are some of the most bulletproof engines of all time
The classic “piston rebored cylinders” 😂 tbh whoever overheats any engine to the point of destruction deserves a Darwin Award, a coolant gauge in the red is a massive signal you should pull over and call a tow truck
@@aidanbrooks771 don’t forget that the NA/NB coolant temp gauge is notoriously useless. From about 160 to 225 deg F the needle will stay in the same spot making you think everything is hunky dory. If the needle starts to move up above normal it’s probably already too late and the engine is overheating.
@@aidanbrooks771 to be fair if it was a massive leak at high rpm the sensor will not read high because there is no coolant for the sensor
Here to find out what I probably did to blow my engine 😂 regarding the gauge being in the red-neither the oil pressure gauge nor the temp gauge ever changed/always read normal on mine. Of course now realizing they probably weren’t functional but 😅
The engine definitely was not overheated 🤡 mans can’t even see the engine and person and is taking guesses please just do your research before making that type of comment
Fram oil filter strikes again. Not saying it's completely the filters' fault. But people who use Fram usually don't care about their engine
Used Fram and got an Escort to 200K, the ones who don't care never check the oil at all.
Completely untrue...
The fact that the rods did not just come flying out of it is a testament to Mazda's design and choice to use larger rod bolts. Once the bearings go, the hammering just trashes the bolts and causes them to fatigue and snap, putting nice scenic view windows in the block.
I’ve been waiting for a bp teardown! These motors are incredible if they’re taken care of, my boosted 1.6 has been running on 20psi and e50 for almost a year now and it’s still going strong. I’m very religious on maintenance and letting the engine warm up but once it’s up to temp I thrash the thing and it just keeps coming back for more😂
Same I’ve been waiting forever for a BP tear down! I’m in the process of fixing up a 1.6 hopefully I’ll be able to turbo it next year
Agree! I have been shoving 15 psi down my '92 1.6 for 10 years. I am not kind to it and it does not burn oil. Maintenance is the key!
Ditto my supercharged Dodge Charger 3.6. It has almost 600 hp to the flywheel and it's into it's 2nd year and about 8,000 miles on 93. Not a hiccup. I don't thrash it however, but I did smoke a Hellcat with it. He had no idea what I was.
WhAts your suggestion on stock internals and 91 octane? Can I hold 14 psi?
@@v8_sami 14psi on 91 is easy work with a decent tune, I’ve ran up to 17psi on 91 but that’s kinda pushing it for pump gas.
almost 80k subscribers! way to go! I can't get enough of these teardown vids!!
Thanks buddy!
There’s nothing more satisfying than the sound of him cracking the cam caps or the head bolts loose.
Not a mention of the FRAM Bomb hanging off the side?
What is a Fram bomb? Just a shitty filter?
Yeah it's the Fram filter that caused all the damage.
I usually watch this while I'm taking a dump. I enjoy it.
Thanks for sharing. Next
Yup
ANY engine can be made to fail. It just takes different degrees of abuse & neglect for some engines.
Yeah, some explode on their own, others take everything you can possibly throw at em!
Man this is the time to buy Miata’s. Good old days when you could pick one up for less than a grand. Did buy another one turbo for 3k though.
Yada price crazy high these last few years o.o, did it suddenly drop?
@@6Sparx9 winter time no one buys cars specially drop tops. So you can find them relatively cheap
@@v8_sami ye 100% people don't have a place to garage / long term park them. I wish I had my 2000 SE still :
@@6Sparx9 this is my third Miata and fifth in the family. Probably going to hold onto this until summer and sell it to get the new GR Corolla that’s coming out.
BB CNN nbnkn
I had a 1.8L 2000 for 8 years, most of that with a centrifugal supercharger on it, 15PSI and 235 wheel horsepower. These engines are awesome, I've heard of one 1.6 engine making around 300 whp. Miatas are the most fun you can have with your clothes on.
I'm building a 93 Protege and needed those pistons dammit lol. But hey, how much for the fuel rail? My OEM one got bent by my hoist because I'm dumb..
he does part these out! try to find his business email and hit him up
His email is in the video description
Once again, top flight job. Had they not used liquid metal motor oil, with the glitter package, they may have seem 300k. Keep them coming!
All this work and aftermarket crap and they didn't even bother to do a coolant reroute or regular oil changes. It's no wonder this thing's dickered. That takes a special kind of idiot because these engines are practically indestructible if left at stock power. That cheapo Fram filter juxtaposed with the expensive Radium fuel rail says it all.
This looks all too familiar to me. Too soon… too soon.
That Fram oil filter though.
As soon as I saw how tight the plugs were, I though "wait till he gets to that Fram filter with the "enhanced grip for his pleasure" that just screams overtightened"... If it isn't, I'll be surprised, but I haven't gotten that far yet.
Would love to see a teardown of a 2.7 Ecoboost or a 5.7 Hemi, both of which are everywhere nowadays. :>
Yeah, I have a 2.7, would love to see a teardown. They're common as dirt...
Wow, every one of these engines I've ever worked on had a bright aluminum head under the valve cover. Someone's been missing oil changes..
probebly 2017 last
So much time, effort, and money to make this engine look like it goes fast but can't be bothered to spend the $50 on an oil change every couple months. Pure genius.
The screws for the oil pump plate are almost certainly JIS and not Phillips. A Phillips bit can usually work with some care, but a set of JIS bits would be a good investment for someone who tears down engines every week.
Japanese Industrial Standard
that raised some concern as to the work of his shop.. how did he not know that..?
@@gearbanginentertainment7476 perhaps he knew but also knew that a Phillips would do the trick and was closer at hand ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@agenericaccount3935 he gave a whole speech about him working on those engines in the beginning.. you wouldve thought he would have set the bits aside as prior to recording and breaking down the engine.
Almost certainly JIS. For those that don't know, there is always a DOT on the head of a JIS screw/bolt in the solid area next to the X where the bit slides in.
lol my first engine teardown was a blown 1.6 from my 92 miata. I blew 4 holes in the engine, 2 in the oil pan and 2 through the block with my #2 connecting rod delete
engine had exactly 289,122 miles on it. ran pretty good until I took it drifting in the mountains
I have yet to sell the parts tho, they need to be cleaned up and I've been lazy
Well , at least the prior owner kept up on what Eric O called " spark plugs fluid "
dude thats awesome. My dad was also a mazda master tech! I remember being a kid going through the showroom and looking at the old school mazdas. Its actually what made me fall in love with the last generation rx7. I remember it looking like a space ship compared to the 90s proteges, 626s and old b trucks. Cool man, & very relatable.
The FD Rx7 was a space ship. Still is, really.
Those style cylinder heads from Japan often have scored cam journals. The babbit material is not a serviceable bearing. That style meaning DOHC with shim and bucket. VVT isn't relevant to the problem.
It breaks right at the flange he says
Proceeds to wack it profusely
He didn't whack it with another car, that's the problem.
In the mid 90s i had a history teacher with long curly greasy hippy hair (loved telling woodstock stories) who would hit on girls in my class (married a former student of his) and he drove a Miata.
Lol a high flow fuel rail on a stock car?
Waste of money until you go up towards 200hp. Likely why the manifold bolts were fucked.
I appreciate you doing this as it gives me the big picture of the engine, versus a timing belt change or installing a starter, etc. That big picture view gives me greater confidence in taking on harder projects since I understand the engine better due to your videos. I have a 2007 Mini Cooper - may need a timing chain service AND a Turbo (and cat)... not sure if that one is financially totaled.. will see. Also a 1990 Miata which we have setup for AutoX and seriously looking at power upgrades.... Engine seems solid at 155K, and considering the supercharger for AutoX... and this video makes me more comfortable in taking that on. Thanks and best of luck!
Ford escorts GT’s were my favorites
Great video gives me a good idea on how the inside of my 1992 miata's engine must look like. Yes mine is a 1.6 so not the exact same engine but very close overall. But I know mine is way cleaner than that inside. Mine only has 170k miles so barely broken in. Looks like that 1.8 had a blown head gasket as well which would explain some of the smoking and the fact that the pistons looked steam cleaned.
I would like to see a teardown on either a miata 1.6 or a 2004-2006 colorado/canyon 2.8 4 cylinder engine.
you see that ball thats pressed into the oil passage in the crank, When I worked On twin cam 4 banger Alfa,s they would spilt the plug out and you lost 30 pounds of oil pressure
It's so awesome when engines make their own anti-seize.
For Christmas, I want some piston mcnuggets, Reynold's bearing foil, and a connecting rod delete kit.
Orange fram filter tells me all I need to know about that engine.
Tear down a VQ35DE! There’s a bunch all over the country for sale at all times!
reason for a vvt head on the earlier 1.8 block is because it produces more power without having to move away from OEM parts.
Dontcha know? Increasing torque on the plugs raises compression. Guy must have been at least 22:1.
Oil pan ingredients: Sparkles (from fortified bearings with vitamin C) and lots of sludge from lack of maintenance (Fram oil filter and onions...extra) LOL!
These engines are super hearty but they love to leak oil once they get up around 100,000 miles.
I don't know why you would spend extra money on the VVT head if you had no plan to activate it, probably blew a head gasket at some point and wanted to upgrade later, but never got around to it once they saw all the work involved.
Also unless you're racing or doing stuff with boost, there is no reason to go with anything other than the stock NGK wires and coils that these cars come with from factory.
Probably the previous owner did run the VVT head using a vvt-tuner but took it with him when he sold the car.
If your dad was a Mazda Master tech he probably would have been a little bit disappointed in the way you pulled that oil pan. If I was just doing a reseal that probably would have gotten me fired.
This engine is somewhat of an inigma. You have more expensive than necessary parts (fuel rail, plug wires, intake, and the VVT head), but poor maintainance and repair practices making this a more expensive but worse car than a stock
Yeah, I find that odd.
Maybe a victim of wasted money based on forum advice?
When I was younger and visited forums I always saw people upgrading their fuel rails and pump for builds with like 30hp over stock... I supercharged my car, converted it to E85 (with larger injectors) and the stock fuel system still kept up, and I still have the car 100k miles later.
I just didn't understand why people were wasting such time and money on un necessary fuel components, easy $500+ but it was "common knowledge" on the forum and everyone was doing it.
Great video as always. Would like to see a Northstar V8 out of the Cadillac DTS if you run across one
That’s probably my buddies engine he blew it up doing burnouts lol
S85 V10. You know you wanna 😂
I wish Miatas stayed cheap…have you done a 2.4 ecotec yet? I have one tore down that has some major maintenance issues! Might make a good tear down video! Nobody takes care of them!
One of the most enjoyable edits I could possibly see would be the cracking loose of a series of bolts. It's such a satisfying feeling/sound when they crack loose. ASMR for old people.
That cheap ass fram filter probably didn’t help it either
Ah a fram oil filter the mark of a well cared for engine.
VVT wasn't plugged in as he either didn't use it or he has a vvt-tuner installed to control it and took it with him. The cam sensor on the valve cover wasn't used because he's using the older NA cam sensor you see on the rear of the exhaust cam.
Have you done a 1.8 turbo vw transverse engine or Audi 3.0t supercharged? Would love to see either one of those.
Your very right Eric. Mazda B engines are fantastic. Too bad they didn't take care of this one.
This is my newest favorite channel on You Tube. I really enjoy seeing the carnage on your engine teardowns. I've been an auto mechanic all my life and have seen all of this before. Keep up the good work.
It has a Fram oil filter, enough said.
I have an 02 miata I will keep your business in mind for future parts. Thanks for the BP tear down.
14:12 that head gasket looks like it blocks the water passages? Or is it just me
Do the Porsche engine next please : )
I've rebuilt a couple Miata engines and the head gaskets were both MLS.
We need a Audi w12 engine disamble
I would LOVE to find one
I sure wish you could get your hands on a LT5 not the new one the old Lotus/Mercury Marine DOHC also do you ever have dreams about taking engines apart when you’re asleep?
I would love to see a teardown of Toyota's 2GR-FE V6. I've seen multiple teardown videos of them but I'd like to see one on your channel.
That's the notorious oil burner, right?
I would of loved to see what the insides of my 678,000 mile 4.3 engine in my 91 Chevy, but it still ran pretty darn good so I ended up selling the truck and not rebuilding or dropping in a new engine lol.
Are there many AJ-V8's in the States (Jaguar/Land-Rover)? Be cool to see a tear down on one of those as not much content on TH-cam for those...
4:22 so you are saying e3 plugs are bs? PowerNation claimed they were the best money could buy.
Your review of common rust spots to look out for on Miatas was the first video I found you on. Came for the Miatas, stayed for the engine tear downs.
I can see where you would do good business on Miata parts. Great cheap first cars for young guys to learn to work on. Simple, robust, and easy to get parts for.
The BP was also found in the Tracer LTS' twin, the Escort LX-e.
Do a v10 and v12 Lamborghini motor
Another great video! I love learning about all these different engines!
I daily drive HR-V with no vtec, that was able to burn 1l of oil per 100km, being close to rev limiter disabled rear view mirrors every time until i changed oil to 10W60 :v This piece of shit engine still is spinning one wheel if clutch is dumped and shoots nicely with awd engaged
Car did 300000km and like 10 years of zero maintenance, i bought it this year for under 400USD to try something different after wrecking nicer car
At least the owner didn't spare any expense when it came to buying oil filters
I almost thought we weren't going to get the laser gun on the head bolts...almost a dislike on a video. Some things just make an I Do Cars video.
"Neglect and abuse can kill anything". A lot of truth there...a lot of truth.
Amazing video! Can’t wait for you to do the 1.6 long nose and short nose
I saw a parade of a thousand Miatas in Gunma, Japan. I was literally passing them in the oncoming lane for 10 minutes. However, there may have been a truck in the lead towing them all.
No, that was a rail engine.
I have an original BP-4W 1.8l in my '00 Miata, with somewhere around 200,700 miles on it. Runs just as well now as it did when I bought the car with 158k. What a great little engine. It burns some oil, and has some signs of burnt valves but it still runs pretty decently all things considered. I give it oil changes with synthetic every 3k and it's done well for me. Never had to take the engine apart. As long as a BP has oil and doesn't get overheated too bad it'll be fine.
Ive never been around the BG engine, the B6 and the B6T on the other hand, plenty. As ive owned many 323 turbos, some of the failures ive come across. The most common one on the short nose, the good old worn keyway. Also seen oil starvation, car had one lady owner from new, 66k on the clock, guessing it was caused by infrequent oil changes. The bottom oil feed was blocked, resulting in no oil up top, exhaust cam seized, and the pulley snapped off the end. Thrust washer failure, found them in the sump all mangled up, crank and block had worn each other out. Excessive smoke caused by worn rings, done a few headgaskets over the years on them, will only use Payen ones now, as i found they are the best, wouldnt bother with cheapo ones.
The current engine in my 323 came out of an MX5. Long nose crank, paid 99p for it off ebay, local, nobody else bid on it. Rebuilt it in my shed, fitted B6T rods as they're thicker, and adapted the engine, as there are slight differences, nothing major. Ive done around 15000 miles on it since, been sweet as.
I know it's not your market but if perchance you encounter one I'm looking for a Jaguar XK 4.2 litre 6 cylinder DOHC engine circa 1987 (XJ6 Series 3)
Took me a minute to figure that out, "Peddle Car"... Then i found this with the correct spelling "Peddle is an online car-buying service", i didnt even know they existed...
I just discovered your channel. I have '99 Miata with 180K miles that I've owned since 2004 @ 50K.
I am far from being a mechanic, but I find your videos really interesting to watch. Good content.
Would love to see a tear down of a 2.7 Ecoboost
Eric, my name is Dave Hanna. I live in Florida, my mother-in-law gave me her 1995 special edition Merlot Miata. It has a 1.8L 245,000 miles on it. I bought a engine block and crankshaft on Ebay. Would I be able to use this block in my NA? Is the bottom end the same as a NB or did I shoot myself in the foot. While my car runs good, AC,PS cruise control and 5 speed. I want to build a motor at least 270hp. The machine shop near me says 3 months before they can look at it.
I had one of these engines in a Mercury Tracer LTS and it was marvelous. So much smoother and more powerful than Ford's 1.9L SEFI (or CVH) engine.
If it hadn't been my brother's high school car, it probably wouldn't have been burning oil quite so badly, but it lasted nearly 300,000 miles with only regular maintenance and a couple timing belts.
pleeeeeease do a VW CCTA teardown. If you aren't stocking them, you should be!
You we’re talking about 6.6 duramax and 6.7 Cummins for 600$ I’m looking for a 6.7 powerstroke to rebuild but not wanting to pay 5-6K just to rebuild it for higher power any suggestions ,advice would be great
That was a very long winded way of saying you were wrong and don't want to hear people correct you. BP blocks don't care what head is attached. BPZ3 is the head, put a BPZ3 head on a block from a BP05....you have a BP...Z3. So you are still half wrong no matter how you look at it.
have you ever done a K series mazda v6? i have rebuilt a KL 2.5 and a KF 2.0 this year, been in love with theese things for multiple reasons especially the sound they make, but after grenading and putting back together them, i think they are very well engineered and good motors.
Excellent engines. I had a few KLDE's and got a KLZE a few years back. True straight neck, low miles from Japan. Using a Millenia ecu. Tons of fun with mtx. The BP head looks just like a DE head to me. Wondering how much of that "not running right" was the leaky valve cover shorting out the plugs AND causing a vacuum leak.
@@pgtmr2713 i currently run a millenia klde (the square port one with the normal de cams) with some portmatching, headers, intake, ran off of a kl47 ecu in my lantis. It goes like a bat out of hell compared ton the original kfde engine.
@@neubauer.p That is awesome! I love the Lantis/323 F, in teal. I've got a KL47, (OBDI ecu,) around here somewhere. Also a KLG8 from a 626, that's the Ford EEC-V one with wasted spark coil pack. All 4 KL intakes as well. Basically future proofed with some junkyard shopping. I wonder what kind of power you're making 180-190? I'm running the KLL6 ecu 98+ Millenia with an adapter harness, in a 94 Ford Probe GT. Absolutely as savage as 210-215 gets. You should see if you can find a whole KL31 out there. Mine's currently down for a wheel bearing. I'll have it back on the road soon.
@@pgtmr2713 i want to run the KLK1 ecu thats maf as well but obd2. Pretty rare where i live so i guess ill have to get it on ebay or somewhere. The butt dyno says around 170-180hp, but i want to take it to a real dyno in the future, but i need to sort out the ecu first. Also im working on adapting the cruise control from the millenia into the lantis. The main issue is space, if you drop a 10mm socket into the engine bay of the damn thing, it never hits the ground :D
@@neubauer.p I don't think you want a KLK1, it will be the same as a KL47. Maf, with a gray OBDI connector. I don't think they're OBDII at all. I have a KLK1 but unfortunately it's the one I decided to disassemble. I chose that one to open up since there was almost nothing out there on that ecu. I think it's a Xedos 6 (Euro specific 626,) ecu. Beyond that there's nothing else on it. It wasn't even on a compiled list on ProbeTalk as to what it was from. Part of the problem is it's an older style ecu from just before OBDII. So it's unknown whether it acts like an OBDI or OBDII ecu. OBDII ecu's make adjustments to a/f ratio. OBDI VAF ecu's follow a set map, period, based on VAF and throttle. KL47 and KLK1 both have the benefit of a MAF instead of VAF, but, I don't know if they strictly follow a fuel map or if they can adjust like the OBDII ecu's.
It might be a waste tracking one down, comparing wiring to the KL47, making it work for 0 benefit. Whereas, 98+ Millenia ecu, is a known quantity, tested, dyno-ed 10-12 hp tq. One guy even turbo-ed without tune to 12 psi, I believe he said 8 psi would be much safer limit. Not sure if he used different injectors or what.
Was this filmed the same day as the Mercedes 5.8L M137 S600/CL600? I'm watching the teardowns in order and I see what looks like a familiar oil pump in a drip pan on the ground at around the 2 minute mark *chuckles* (also, same shirt but that doesn't mean anything)
YES! Lil Iron Block! 😎
I bet if you cut open that filter it will tell us a story. I have seen 5 engines ruined by fram extra guard oil filters. Glue, cardboard, rust, they are terrible, awful, horrible, not good oil filters!
Have you ever pulled apart a Toyota K motor? Like from a 70s Corolla? They also have oversized rod and main hardware like this. It's like half a V8. Those were the first motors I ever worked on and everything else looks weak and small by comparison, until now anyway.
Like others I have had Miatas (both 1.6 and 1.8) with well over 200k miles on them. I have kept up all maintenance and when I pulled the motors the cylinder walls and bearing looked like new!!!
Hey! I sent an email. Maybe you can help me out with a Christmas gift? Fingers crossed. Thanks. (Hopefully hubby doesn’t see this comment)
I would have to say the protege 2.0 was better I beat the fuck out of mine got 220,000 and still sold it for more then 2 k to some one who already had 3 down in pr and knows that are worth the month you can’t kill then
Any chance for a GM 3800?
This is the wrong venue so forgive me.
Any progress on the 7 to 9 GM LS2 6.0 V8 for the Sierra? A bore seems like an easy fix but I’m sure it’s not worth it. That’s a nice truck.
Pay me now or pay me later.
Curious, but do you use J.I.S. (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers? I bought a set but have yet to use them. I heard that J.I.S. screws are slightly different which result in people damaging screws using number two Phillips drivers on Japanese cars.
They are slightly different but do make a difference, use em where you can if you have em