To all newbies! DO NOT WELD THE SPRINGS TO THE AXLE, EVER, NO NO NO! OK? Spring steel is tempered to flex, if you heat it to 5 grand with a welder its f****d, and will snap in half out on the road. The hole drilled for the spring bolt has plenty of clearance so it wont shear off. Your spring will have mounting plates, use them, Do not mount the spring DIRECTLY to the square pipe, use the mounting plates (not shown in video) To the uploader! Very cool! I like that you repeatedly say HOT WELDS! Clean metal makes hot welds and hot welds are fully penetrated and solid. Hopefully detail people will go make sure they understand heat, and penetration for strength. Dirt absorbs heat and takes away penetration for those who are new. I was frustrated with my width of the trailer and finding the right axles out there, but now we create out own custom length with this setup, and I can make the plate and gussets myself! Sorry ebay! You aint getting my money, my local steel guy, and auto parts or motorsports store will get it. I subd your channel over this video! Bang! And TRUMP WON!! NOT THE MASHED🥔. LETS GO BRANDON!!
Just bought a Harbor Freight "Super Duty" trailer & a flux core welder. When I outgrow this trailer, I plan on fabricating my own using your setup. Thank you for sharing. Awesome.
@@rusosure7 guys who think that they're going to build a "SUPER DUTY TRAILER" with a Harbor Freight flux core welder. That's about the biggest joke on the welding web.
This was exactly what I have been looking for. Picked up a used trailer, and be looking around for a better axle solution. Something that is easy repair, and more structural. So glad the link is still good for this setup. Hey Thanks, I even learned a lot about welding through your demo. You are a really good teacher. Even though you don't seem to make videos anymore, I still will sub. Thanks!!!
I have never seen an axel built without some sort of spring plate on it a 3/4 hole drilled in the tube for the center bolt is going to allow the springs to move around no matter how tight the ubolts are and you can guarantee that the head will sheer off the centre bolt. This is absolutely crazy and a major safety problem spring saddles are easily available.
The hole in the axle is not how the spring is mounted. It just accommodates the spring bolt or rivet that goes through the springs, so that the springs sit flush on the axle. Springs are always mounted with spring mounting plates. There is no eliminating of a spring Mount plate with the system
I agree with you Carl Simms. That hole is not just to hide the bolt or pin. Its also an alignment pin to square the axle to the spring. This is bad advise to go with a larger hole. As this is a nice setup but should only be used on a single axle light weight trailer. These hubs will pop if using on a tandem axle setup from side load while turning.
I would really not use this type of hub for a boat trailer axle. Even though it is most likely a "sealed" bearing in the hub, salt water will work its way into it and it will destroy the bearing in a short time. That is why most trailer manufactures use the EZ Lube hubs on all boat trailer axles, as you need to grease them up after every couple times the axle is exposed to salt water.
Hello I would like to know more about it and how thick is the steel you use for the axle plate because in Canada I would need to get inspection on it. Can you help me out with some more info
I especially like that you can adjust the height somewhat. I was looking at going the regular route for the spindle ends but really like this design for adjustment. You should have shown the bearings and all put together so we can definitely see that it is an entire kit..(visually). Great design for a dummy like me that can't decide or may build the frame before deciding on the width of the camper trailer. Just to be clear a 1/4 x 2 x 2 pipe is all that is needed. ? And can breaks be added using this setup? Does this pipe need to have any particular strength specks or is it regular stock metal? Thanks !!
Just a regular stock 1/4" 2"x2" tube. No special hardness, just whats called structural mild steel. You can add brakes, but that would take a little custom engineering with off the shelf parts.
Typically you would add a shock to whatever would fit. We have found that a 70's Volkswagen are reasonably low cost and perform very well for load and sway control. Coil over shocks would be overkill. Leaf springs work best for trailers.
@@Kenniii3 Castor and or Camber is usually not considered necessary on trailers because of axles being streight. Those factors are usually used in wishbone suspensions.
These are rear hubs. They are bolted through by the factory. By removing the dust cap (not recommended) you will see they are safe. They are mounted on vehicles basically the very same way. You are probably confusing rear hubs with front hubs of front wheel drive vehicles, that would be true of front hubs.
To all newbies! DO NOT WELD THE SPRINGS TO THE AXLE, EVER, NO NO NO! OK? Spring steel is tempered to flex, if you heat it to 5 grand with a welder its f****d, and will snap in half out on the road. The hole drilled for the spring bolt has plenty of clearance so it wont shear off. Your spring will have mounting plates, use them, Do not mount the spring DIRECTLY to the square pipe, use the mounting plates (not shown in video)
To the uploader! Very cool! I like that you repeatedly say HOT WELDS!
Clean metal makes hot welds and hot welds are fully penetrated and solid.
Hopefully detail people will go make sure they understand heat, and penetration for strength. Dirt absorbs heat and takes away penetration for those who are new.
I was frustrated with my width of the trailer and finding the right axles out there, but now we create out own custom length with this setup, and I can make the plate and gussets myself! Sorry ebay! You aint getting my money, my local steel guy, and auto parts or motorsports store will get it.
I subd your channel over this video! Bang!
And TRUMP WON!! NOT THE MASHED🥔. LETS GO BRANDON!!
Agreed with your comment.
Nothing like supporting a traitor to this country.
Just bought a Harbor Freight "Super Duty" trailer & a flux core welder.
When I outgrow this trailer, I plan on fabricating my own using your setup.
Thank you for sharing. Awesome.
I have a beer and some popcorn . . . I'm gotta watch this . . . you guys in! This is gonna be good.
@@jimwhitaker8751 Watch what exactly?
@@rusosure7 guys who think that they're going to build a "SUPER DUTY TRAILER" with a Harbor Freight flux core welder.
That's about the biggest joke on the welding web.
This was exactly what I have been looking for.
Picked up a used trailer, and be looking around for a better axle solution. Something that is easy repair, and more structural.
So glad the link is still good for this setup.
Hey Thanks, I even learned a lot about welding through your demo.
You are a really good teacher.
Even though you don't seem to make videos anymore, I still will sub.
Thanks!!!
Thank you for a very informative video. I have learned a lot.
Great video! Thank you.
I have never seen an axel built without some sort of spring plate on it a 3/4 hole drilled in the tube for the center bolt is going to allow the springs to move around no matter how tight the ubolts are and you can guarantee that the head will sheer off the centre bolt. This is absolutely crazy and a major safety problem spring saddles are easily available.
The hole in the axle is not how the spring is mounted. It just accommodates the spring bolt or rivet that goes through the springs, so that the springs sit flush on the axle. Springs are always mounted with spring mounting plates. There is no eliminating of a spring Mount plate with the system
I agree with you Carl Simms. That hole is not just to hide the bolt or pin. Its also an alignment pin to square the axle to the spring. This is bad advise to go with a larger hole.
As this is a nice setup but should only be used on a single axle light weight trailer. These hubs will pop if using on a tandem axle setup from side load while turning.
Great video thanks for sharing 🙏🏻
I would really not use this type of hub for a boat trailer axle. Even though it is most likely a "sealed" bearing in the hub, salt water will work its way into it and it will destroy the bearing in a short time. That is why most trailer manufactures use the EZ Lube hubs on all boat trailer axles, as you need to grease them up after every couple times the axle is exposed to salt water.
Do you have a video on doing a dual walking axle?
Hello I would like to know more about it and how thick is the steel you use for the axle plate because in Canada I would need to get inspection on it. Can you help me out with some more info
The steel thickness is 3/8" plate, all pieces.
I especially like that you can adjust the height somewhat. I was looking at going the regular route for the spindle ends but really like this design for adjustment. You should have shown the bearings and all put together so we can definitely see that it is an entire kit..(visually). Great design for a dummy like me that can't decide or may build the frame before deciding on the width of the camper trailer.
Just to be clear a 1/4 x 2 x 2 pipe is all that is needed. ?
And can breaks be added using this setup?
Does this pipe need to have any particular strength specks or is it regular stock metal? Thanks !!
Just a regular stock 1/4" 2"x2" tube. No special hardness, just whats called structural mild steel. You can add brakes, but that would take a little custom engineering with off the shelf parts.
Can this be pulled on the highway at soeeds higher than 60 mph?
Yes. Works better than the regular trailer axle. It's more safe this type of bearing
Is there a 4000-5500pound kit? If no kit what would the thickness of all the steel required to meet such specs? Thanks in advance…
I’m not sure how the shock and height adjustment works for this setup, anyone have a link ?
3500 lb kit is the largest capacity we make. You would need to consult an engineer for higher weight construction.
Typically you would add a shock to whatever would fit. We have found that a 70's Volkswagen are reasonably low cost and perform very well for load and sway control. Coil over shocks would be overkill. Leaf springs work best for trailers.
Is there any way you could share a link for this kit? I have looked on eBay and I can’t find it. Thanks
www.ebay.com/itm/302428942423?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3gnQ0FSfT3y&sssrc=2524149&ssuid=3gnQ0FSfT3y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
What would you say is the weight rating of that axle assembly you built there?
We have a 2000 LB axle kit and a 3500 LB kit.
Find then here below
www.ebay.com/str/bennysbargainbasement
I see this kit is "out of stock" when will it be available again?
Message me through Ebay. We do have a solution.
I think you need to reverse the polarity on your welder
Hello like your video do you ship to Canada
Yes we do.
What vehicle uses that hub, or what is the number on the hub?
The OEM number is laser etched into the hub face. Good idea to record this before installing. Available at any parts store or online.
Castor? Camber?
@@Kenniii3 Castor and or Camber is usually not considered necessary on trailers because of axles being streight. Those factors are usually used in wishbone suspensions.
Do you have any links for that kit?
Yes you can find them with this link
www.ebay.com/str/bennysbargainbasement
I like to see you jobs
جيد.
Factory sealed hubs need an axle bolted through them to stay together. The inner hub is only pressed in. What's done here is dangerous.
These are rear hubs. They are bolted through by the factory. By removing the dust cap (not recommended) you will see they are safe. They are mounted on vehicles basically the very same way.
You are probably confusing rear hubs with front hubs of front wheel drive vehicles, that would be true of front hubs.