Having fabricated for many years, I understand the ease of setup doing it this way. My self I would flip the trailer over for ease of welding and not having to do out of position welds. Thanks for all your interesting content!
He has a pit… 87.283% as good as a lift/hoist. Those aren’t bad welds to do horizontal with a mig anyway never minding that field construction welders and the pipe guys are constantly “out of position” and they have to pass inspections and cert tests so I don’t see that as an issue. When I think of some ‘situations’ I’ve been in where you have to employ light weight transportation and can only bring a 120V fluxcore machine for “out of position” emergency repairs I don’t see this controlled situation as any problem whatsoever.
i have a skidsteer ha ndy and did exactly that, but do still think im gonna use this method for making everything perfectly even and straight nice and easy
I'm not too worried. If i can help someone out it is worth it. I'd rather see someone install these properly, worst case scenario I can sell them the hangers and they can install them themselves.
Nicely done. I've done this same thing several times building large boat trailers but using angle iron and then bolted it to the 8" channel frame so the owner(s) could adjust the axle placement later if necessary. The largest trailer was for a 34' wooden gillnet boat with an inboard engine.
yes, that is a common design on boat trailers. a lot of times the fenders will be welded to them as well, so you can just roll it on back or forwards depending on which boat is on the trailer.
Thanks for the tips. I’ve got a trailer to re-axle shortly. I was fixing to flip the trailer over to make it easier. I may rethink that plan based on your process. Keep putting out the videos.
I been wanting to take the one 3500 lb axle off my utility trailer and put 2 new ones on and lengthen the trailer a few feet and been terrified of doing the hangers. This is an amazing simple solution. THANKS!!!
Building trailer as we speak and just googled to find out the method of spacing springs and the equalizer. So is 4 3/8” for all springs and equalizers. If you measure center to center on springs and add 43/8 why add 3” again or did I misunderstand?
Scott, I was wondering if you can do a video using your hydraulic press in testing the strength of a one inch weld bead on joined metal? I noticed in this video that you stitch welded the 3/8 inch flat bar to the frame. Would more stitch welds be more secure or is that amount that you used more than sufficient to hold the flat bar and the forces from the suspension and axle with heavy loads?
when you install the hangers they require a full weld all the way around them. So I did that much weld on the flat bar plus a little overhang. As for the 1-2" long stitch welds, they are just for stability. You could do as much extra welding on there as you want.
Very good work. BTW, stupid question, you have such a nice garage, why don't you not use a hoist to flip the trailer up side down? I guess it will be way easier to work on the chassis.
You've added some extra strength to the trailer doing it that way. Most of these trailers are built with thin as toilet paper steel, last month I was doing some work on the little equipment trailer its 14k. I don't remember the year of it, anyhow I pulled one of the clearance lights out and rust started pouring out the hole, it was the mill scale from the inside of the tubing.
yes, they make the frames out of tissue paper now. I can't believe how thin they make them. You have to watch out for blowouts when welding because you can punch a hole just welding the hangers on.
👍Every trailer I’ve built or modified always gets a plate between the hangers and frame. So many ‘repairs’ are from torn or punched out hanger mountings not actual hanger fails. Not counting how much better it makes the load distribution of the hangers it’s worth it just from the fact they won’t be tearing off again. Limping ‘home’ or to a shop on a damaged hanger is better than not having the suspension connected to anything anymore. Plus plated hangers don’t bend the frame when something breaks- I’ve had to fix a few of those and that can be a royal pain.
I got the project to build my own trailer 80 inches by 16 ft 2 axles of 3500 lbs , I wonder if you have a part number / makes on these leaf springs or I wish I could buy one from you all reedy welded like this one...
That is a complex question and might require a lot of research. Figure out what "spread" that you can fit with the tires you are looking for. Standard spreads are 33" and 35", however there are some new suspensions from, I believe, Jayco, which has a very long wheelbase, around 40". You would have to look up their suspension to be able to help you with the spacing.
Question for you! I’m having issues with my travel trailer and the leaf springs. Some have suggested that I might have too long of leaf springs, but I just determined that the hangers aren’t the same distance on each side. From the back to the hanger on the drivers side is 119 7/8”, but on the passenger side it’s 119 1/4”. I’m assuming that’s not normal, correct?
usually most hangers are 29 5/8" center to center. Basically you take the length of your leaf spring from center of eye to center of eye, so, for example: If your leaf springs are 25.25 from eye to eye, then you add 4.360" to that measurement and it will give you the center to center measurement you need for your hangers. I hope this helps.
But now with the plate the moisture and dirt can get in between and there it will rust out first. It will be a long time though . Maybe a beat of some caulking or oil treatment will delay that process.
Which equalizer you install will just change the ride height. the shackles should always be 2.25" long (center to center) that is the standard size now.
23 3/8 was your center to center of the leaf eye??? mine is 23 1/4 is this possible,they are 3500 pounds, so it would be 23 1/4 x2 and + 3 inch ,is this ok Gef
each spring changes arch over time with wear/tear. If you get them real close (1/16 or so) it is good enough. just make sure that both sides are the same. you can actually buy the same part number from 2 different suppliers and they can be 1/8" different in length...so we try to install 4 springs from the same supplier.
Having fabricated for many years, I understand the ease of setup doing it this way. My self I would flip the trailer over for ease of welding and not having to do out of position welds. Thanks for all your interesting content!
He has a pit… 87.283% as good as a lift/hoist.
Those aren’t bad welds to do horizontal with a mig anyway never minding that field construction welders and the pipe guys are constantly “out of position” and they have to pass inspections and cert tests so I don’t see that as an issue.
When I think of some ‘situations’ I’ve been in where you have to employ light weight transportation and can only bring a 120V fluxcore machine for “out of position” emergency repairs I don’t see this controlled situation as any problem whatsoever.
i have a skidsteer ha
ndy and did exactly that, but do still think im gonna use this method for making everything perfectly even and straight nice and easy
Your giving away to many trade secrets for free bro. I am impressed! The quality is "factory" level" workmanship!
I'm not too worried.
If i can help someone out it is worth it.
I'd rather see someone install these properly, worst case scenario I can sell them the hangers and they can install them themselves.
@@simcoespring thank you very much
i like the way that you did that, it makes the alignment very easy.
This guy does such a great job explaining everything smoothly, clearly and to detail.... Awesome job...
Nicely done. I've done this same thing several times building large boat trailers but using angle iron and then bolted it to the 8" channel frame so the owner(s) could adjust the axle placement later if necessary. The largest trailer was for a 34' wooden gillnet boat with an inboard engine.
yes, that is a common design on boat trailers. a lot of times the fenders will be welded to them as well, so you can just roll it on back or forwards depending on which boat is on the trailer.
Thanks for the tips. I’ve got a trailer to re-axle shortly. I was fixing to flip the trailer over to make it easier. I may rethink that plan based on your process. Keep putting out the videos.
I appreciate this video greatly. It saved me a lot of time. It also made a pretty difficult job a lot easier to measure and straight foward.
I been wanting to take the one 3500 lb axle off my utility trailer and put 2 new ones on and lengthen the trailer a few feet and been terrified of doing the hangers. This is an amazing simple solution. THANKS!!!
I’m building a trailer, and this is brilliant! you my friend are a great welder and a good coach, good video!!
Very good. I like the bolt onto a jig. But the weld to the 3/8 plate is good because you can weld to a narrow frame.
Appreciate all the information man! best page for this content matter that I've found!
Excellent work ethic. Enjoy watching your videos.
Awesome! Thank you!
Building trailer as we speak and just googled to find out the method of spacing springs and the equalizer. So is 4 3/8” for all springs and equalizers. If you measure center to center on springs and add 43/8 why add 3” again or did I misunderstand?
Excellent video. I really enjoy watching and learning from you. Keep em coming!!!
A great idea. Thanks for sharing, great content mate 👍🏻
No problem 👍
This fellar is sharp im grateful for your video im learning 😅
we would like to see when you installed all the hardware too!!!
Great video…..I like your presentation
Thanks for watching
Excelente trabajo mucho mejor que los fabricantes un saludo CDMX Mexico
Great work my man, 👌🏽
Thank you, for this content.
Great video 👍
thank you
Great video, helped me out alot, Thanks.
Hi from Muskoka Ontario!
Pretty smart idea.
Thanks!
Pretty smart way to speed up the work.
Scott, I was wondering if you can do a video using your hydraulic press in testing the strength of a one inch weld bead on joined metal? I noticed in this video that you stitch welded the 3/8 inch flat bar to the frame. Would more stitch welds be more secure or is that amount that you used more than sufficient to hold the flat bar and the forces from the suspension and axle with heavy loads?
when you install the hangers they require a full weld all the way around them.
So I did that much weld on the flat bar plus a little overhang.
As for the 1-2" long stitch welds, they are just for stability.
You could do as much extra welding on there as you want.
Using the flat stock is Absolutely Genius ❤️🏴☠️🎥💯%👍🏻👌
Good work!
Very good work.
BTW, stupid question, you have such a nice garage, why don't you not use a hoist to flip the trailer up side down? I guess it will be way easier to work on the chassis.
Are you using gas with the wire welding ? Thanks
You've added some extra strength to the trailer doing it that way. Most of these trailers are built with thin as toilet paper steel, last month I was doing some work on the little equipment trailer its 14k. I don't remember the year of it, anyhow I pulled one of the clearance lights out and rust started pouring out the hole, it was the mill scale from the inside of the tubing.
yes, they make the frames out of tissue paper now. I can't believe how thin they make them. You have to watch out for blowouts when welding because you can punch a hole just welding the hangers on.
@Simcoe Spring Service I've done lots of Texas tig welding with two 7018 rods trying to weld thin stuff lol.
👍Every trailer I’ve built or modified always gets a plate between the hangers and frame. So many ‘repairs’ are from torn or punched out hanger mountings not actual hanger fails.
Not counting how much better it makes the load distribution of the hangers it’s worth it just from the fact they won’t be tearing off again. Limping ‘home’ or to a shop on a damaged hanger is better than not having the suspension connected to anything anymore. Plus plated hangers don’t bend the frame when something breaks- I’ve had to fix a few of those and that can be a royal pain.
I got the project to build my own trailer 80 inches by 16 ft 2 axles of 3500 lbs , I wonder if you have a part number / makes on these leaf springs or I wish I could buy one from you all reedy welded like this one...
Really nice work, wish i am in need of new hangers right now. What should i expect to be charged for this kind of work in the west coast?
no clue. every single mechanic could charge a different rate.
Is it possible to build a double axle trailer with drop 5200lb axles but spread like they do with torsion axles
HI, I'm getting ready to add several feet to my tandem axle trailer, I want to add a third axle. How do I know where to locate them? Thanks in advance
I wanna build a tandem offroad trailer with 32" tires.. Do i need to modify them measurements a little??
That is a complex question and might require a lot of research. Figure out what "spread" that you can fit with the tires you are looking for. Standard spreads are 33" and 35", however there are some new suspensions from, I believe, Jayco, which has a very long wheelbase, around 40". You would have to look up their suspension to be able to help you with the spacing.
Do you experience rust jacking over time?
Question for you! I’m having issues with my travel trailer and the leaf springs. Some have suggested that I might have too long of leaf springs, but I just determined that the hangers aren’t the same distance on each side. From the back to the hanger on the drivers side is 119 7/8”, but on the passenger side it’s 119 1/4”. I’m assuming that’s not normal, correct?
usually most hangers are 29 5/8" center to center.
Basically you take the length of your leaf spring from center of eye to center of eye, so, for example:
If your leaf springs are 25.25 from eye to eye, then you add 4.360" to that measurement and it will give you the center to center measurement you need for your hangers.
I hope this helps.
How do these fare with rust jacking after a few seasons?
Not well, here in the Northeast, Damn salt !!!
But now with the plate the moisture and dirt can get in between and there it will rust out first. It will be a long time though . Maybe a beat of some caulking or oil treatment will delay that process.
Does anyone know how you figure out what size equalizer and shackles you need or does it matter
Which equalizer you install will just change the ride height. the shackles should always be 2.25" long (center to center) that is the standard size now.
23 3/8 was your center to center of the leaf eye???
mine is 23 1/4 is this possible,they are 3500 pounds,
so it would be 23 1/4 x2 and + 3 inch ,is this ok
Gef
each spring changes arch over time with wear/tear. If you get them real close (1/16 or so) it is good enough. just make sure that both sides are the same. you can actually buy the same part number from 2 different suppliers and they can be 1/8" different in length...so we try to install 4 springs from the same supplier.
On such critical welds all the mill scale should have been removed from all the weld locations on the flat bar.
Not a big fan of plate on frame. Nice area for salt and rust to form
День добрый! Можно размеры пластин и треугольника?
The sign says, "wear your respirator!"
No test fit after tacking to make sure all parts fit before welding them solid? 🤦♂
I think your wire speed as just a little slow
Fantastic idea grasshopper ! Wax on wax off ! 🖕🙏
When rust gets between it won’t be such a good idea.
well that is definitely something to worry about in about 20 years.
Maybe extended the life of the already rusted frame.
Liberal coating of bar and chain oil will take care of that
Just oil spray the shit out of it, or smear grease right into the seams.
Lor
Mig welding big mistake