Dipping my toes into the world of welding was fun. I went the extra mile and made plans for this project. Check them out and support these videos: mariushornberger.com/products/welding-fixture-table-plans
Moin, hab wie du viel mit holz und möbelbau zu tun gehabt und schweife gerade auch richtung metaller aus. Hab such schon ein wig gerät usw. Ich hatte tatsächlich überlegt mit genau die evolution kappsäge (R210CMS?) zu holen.. wie zufrieden bist du mit der?
Your welder has Tig Pulse function, you should read into it, it will give you more penetration on your weld while reducing heat buildup by pulsing between a high and low amperage.
Hi Marius, ich mag ja deine Videos aber leider reicht mein Englisch dafür nicht aus, gibt es die auch in dt. oder mit dt. Untertitel? Aber sonst weiter machen.
Hey professional welder here, by the quick clip at 17:23 it seems like your using too much gas. It also looks like your using a cup size 7 or 8, a general rule of thumb is taking the cup size and adding 2. That gives you your desired gas flow, with a little bit extra for any leaks. Whenever I adjust my gas flow I light up on a scrap piece and if there is no "scratching" noise as the amps slump down, then I know I got the right flow set. If it does still scratch, then it's just a matter of adjusting it up or down and trying again. Initial slump up (or slope) isn't generally something I use, it's annoying when tacking and only useful when you wanna restart on a weld with a bit better penetration. But avoid making the bead any wider right at the start. So for aesthetics basically. 20:42 THIS, it's by no means perfect but these few seconds are how you "should" be welding all the time. The excessive angle of your torch isn't technically correct, but it does reduce penetration and thusly reduce warping. 10-20 degrees from perpendicular is the "correct" angle. 20:47 it's miles better, notice how the weld initially "wets out" smoothly in the beginning and then sort of folds up on itself a few dips later? What's happening is your initially welding with the correct amount of heat in the weld puddle, (THIS, it's not the amount of heat applied, its how hot the puddle is.) for those initial few dips you are welding at the correct speed. But as you were getting started you applied more heat than needed, so you succesfully made use of the excess heat but then failed to compensate (slowing down slightly) when this excess heat ran out. 20:57 use thinner filler wire, I would say a 1,6 would be plenty for this. 2,0 and you sort of have to use another dipping technique in order to not dramatically change how hot the weld puddle is with every single dip of filler. 21:49 If you had extra pipe available I would've tacked them on as a strongback in order to prevent warping, you'd still get some but much MUCH less than you'd expect.
To add onto your gas flow tip: The rule of thumb in metric is that your gas flow in L/H should be around equal to the inner diameter off your cup in mm. Reduce it by ~20% for fillet welds and increase it by ~20% for gapped welds.
Dude, I'm a fabricator, and your welds need work, but my God, that tolerance and checking technique with the tools you have is just beautiful to watch. I absolutely love your videos.
WOW. He clearly said his welds need work and that he’s a beginner and you still need to point that out before commenting on his QC techniques. 🤦♂️ I’m sure you’d be a great mentor in a shop. 🥺
Guys guys,guys.....he's into welding now.... In a few videos time he will be building his own water jet machine eith better features than a commercially available machine
For the Welding part, when you get used to it and build muscle memory, you'll heat your workpieces less if you up the amps on your welder en weld faster, that's why you were having trouble early with the 110 amps setup compared to the 130 amps setup. Great job for a beginner that's a nice project!
I’m not much of a welder, but that’s similar advice for cooking! If it’s too dry, use higher temps because the innards won’t get as hot before the outside is done!
Weld two pieces of scrap from your weld table with the same weld settings. Then cut through the weld on your cool saw, then you can check that your weld is penetrating the metal stock correctly. You have the best TH-cam channel.
YES. TH-camrs are the WORST for not testing welds. Also welds two pieces together and then BREAK the weld and see what happens. "great looking" welds can be garbage too..
The algorithm recommended this video three times before I watched it, because I thought I wasn't interested in a makeshift welding table. But there is absolutely no makeshift work here. This guy does metalworking at an exceptionally high level compared to what I expected. And it's extremely educational. This video is very, very good! I'm grateful for it! :)
I know this is an older video, but man for a newbie welder you did GREAT, what an awesome job. And great idea to use square tubing. I never even thought of that myself.
OK, that Dremel welding nib grinder jig just had me. Sooooo gooooddd!! I'm locked in. Budding welder who'll find your channel super helpful. Love the engineer focused approach.
I Just Love how he builds Stuff so insanely accurate and perfect in His basement Workshop. I know people that do welding for a living and would never Put that amount of precision and perfection in a welding table
His work is very imperfect- he would be the first to admit that. The cool part is he thinks around the imperfections which is a much more important skill than striving for perfection.
Wow! An epic amount of work but so nice to watch. I came across another DIY welding table video in which he repurposes the cast iron table from an old table saw. Doesn't provide the same level of clamp mounts but isn't bad and way easier.
Your bit is wobbling which is pretty normal in most drill press and shops, therefore if you use a vice for your base metal its fixed and that bit play will make your hole bigger, therefore if you hold it slightly by hand it actually helps you and allows your base metal to play together with a bit and your hole ends up more precise.
Instead of Brake Cleaner PLEASE USE ACETONE when welding!!! John Cadogan talks about the tragic Phosphene gas generated by heating Brake Cleaner indoors when welding causing a non-recovery in the patient.
Luckily these days chlorinated brake cleaners are increasingly rare and banned in many places, but it's definitely a good idea to check ones own. I couldn't find a single one in Finland for instance.
German engineering is in the house. Like your tolerance checking tips and "pins based approach" in building the surface of table. Appreciate for sharing, sir.
What a massive amount of work!! But the results are top tier! I love that you can put this to the side against the wall, make adjustments as needed and it is so affordable. Great work all around! 👍
I love that you're showing your beginner welding journey! Very awesome, looks like you are doing a great job. One of my favourite upgrades was a smaller torche (9 series) with a stubby back cap and stubby gas lens, made controlling the torch so much easier for me. Thanks for all of your videos, you've inspired me many times over
Nicely done! I had a local company laser cut 6 mm steel plate with holes, slots and tabs for me. Just weld together. Was about 130 Euro. Found the drawings online. The biggest difference for me when tig welding was swapping out the large handle with the buttons and going for a much smaller ck torch and a foot pedal...so much more control, will never go back.
normal sagt man ca. 40A pro MM - da bist du mit den 130 besser bedient als mit den 110 - was ich aber empfehlen kann, ist ein fußpedal, da kannst du dann direkt reagieren und entweder mehr oder weniger leistung geben, z.b wenn du ans ende der naht kommst, langsam die leistung rausnehmen, so dass du die ecken nicht wegbläst
Very cool video! A huge thing that hit me as I was watching this was the time vs. money problem. If you don't have money but you have time this is an awesome project. If you have the money but not the time to build this.... yeah just buy a fixture table and get back to work. Lol. Again, great tutorial!
I think you should indicate your pilar drill spindle and see what's going on. I know that bits can be curved slightly, which is not great, but if the spindle is running out of true, that will compound your issues.
I am betting this is the reason even the undersized hole saw was cutting oversides, if he setup a dial indicator on it I bet there was a full 0.5mm of runout overall.
I can't remember ever having seen welding shot with exposure that let me see what was happening. At first, I didn't realize that's what you had done, but it's super interesting to see. Now I wish everyone who welds in TH-cam videos would do that!
After having to have tiny slivers of steel removed from my right eye twice now, i always wear a full face shield. The crazy thing is, both times i was wearing safety glasses. Well... first time was glasses, the second time were these dewalt goggles which had a little gap near the nose that a piece flew in, bounced and hit my eye.
Funny thing is... it is BECAUSE of the "safety precautions" that you choose to do things that you would not otherwise... you make lesser good decisions BECAUSE you "FEEL SAFE" than you would doing nothing...
Yes be carefull !! I had to go in one week 3 times to the hospital and the eyedoc had to drill into my right eyeball to get al the rusty metal out . Then it took me 2 weeks with an lens in my eye becouse the drill holes in my own lens did not heal .12x a day drops in my eye .it was hell .so you are warned. Use perfect eye protection 😊!!!
I was very impressed with the sander build and the amazing features you designed in. But now you have another great build. For manual drilling, machining and welding I think your results are fantastic. Well done.
"And since step drills aren't the most precise tools in the world, it made the exact hole size I was looking for." When you can sarcasm that good, you have a very good handle on English as a second language.
Marius, I just spent the last few weeks watching all your videos and am impressed with your sense of humor, innovation, and best of all, the way you analyze multiple solutions to a problem and give your reasoning for the solution you choose. In an early random shop talk and also your first live event you were asked how you got into woodworking and you response was the answer is long, involved, and interesting enough that it deserves its own video. Does that video exist?
Wie immer: Klasse Video! Ich schaue dir schon lange zu und hab mir schon die eine oder andere Inspiration bei dir geholt. Auch wenn ich schon seit 5 Jahren einen massiven Schweißtisch habe und nicht daran denke ihn zu ersetzen, habe ich das Video gespannt verfolgt. Auch wenn die Präzision bei weitem nicht von nöten ist, schlägt mein Ingenieurs-Herz höher, wenn ich sehe wie du versuchst das letzte Zehntel raus zu holen 😍 weiter so!
with all the holes, perhaps you can make a fume extractor that draws the fumes down through the table, away from you. Great build. Thank you for sharing!
Like a different reply mentioned: it would mess up your gas shielding. The shielding gas used when welding is heavier than regular atmospheric gases, so the fume extractor would be pulling your gas coverage away from your weld area. Overhead extraction is much better at shielding you from toxic fumes, since its actively redirecting the fumes that might move towards you. The best solution would be an atmospheric welding hood. But a regular breathing hose with proper heat shielding is a solid alternative for hobbyists. If no precautions are taken to reduce fume inhalation, the air behind a welder is already about 90% cleaner than the air near the weld. So with a simple hose and a well ventilated workspace you can greatly reduce long term health risks.
@@Yzerbruh Yes. This is why professional welding helmets have battery powered blower unit on users lower back, which pulls air through filter and slightly overpressurizes welding helmet protecting user from fumes via air hose.
Always impressed with people doing this :) People say practice but people also forget its consumables and tools that cost not always the time.....Keep up what your doing def going to watch some of your other videos
thank you so much for putting the eye shields/flash warning!! there are so many youtubers who seem to think i want to watch ten minutes straight of white flashes rather than actually being able to see anything, and this was so much nicer.
Great work! I built a fixture table last winter and have used it a ton. I cannot critique your welding because I am no better. One suggestion is using annular cutters in your drill press. I started using them a couple years ago and the tolerances are way better. When I made my table with 288 holes through 19mm plate for the top it was very fast. Great work I am a new subscriber.
Practice walking the cup. You place the cup of the metal and wiggle it back and forth. Also, just lay the wire down and wash over it instead of dipping it. You do great work and shoot for excellence.
Hallo Marius Super coole Idee, mega Präzision. Steht nun auch auf meiner Liste für die Werkstatteinrichtung. Kleiner Input noch: Beim WIG schweissen bildet sich giftiges Ozon, sorge also auch bei diesem Verfahren für gute Belüftung im Raum. Die geringe Rauchentwicklung begünstigt die Ausbreitung zudem. Freue mich auf weitere Videos von dir.
The biggest issue with your welds is consistency of when you add filler to your puddle and how consistent your lateral movement is. I suggest walking the cup a bit less i.e. decreasing the amplitude of your oscillations, upping the current some more, and being extremely cogniscent about adding the filler always at the same point in your oscillation. Torch angle is REALLY important here. Your filler must NEVER melt before touching the puddle. If you don't manage to achieve this, decrease arc gap and/or adjust torch angle accordingly
Lovely video! I'v been watching your vids for years and it's inspiring to see how you're evolving your style over time. Great pacing without sacrificing too much on the details- I always struggle with that! So yeah, thanks for sharing your skills and learning :)
I battled the hole saw diameter issue in the past. I found the issue with the cheap hole saws is the tolerance on the bore that holds the pilot drill and runout of the cheap drill bit they come with. When you tighten the set screw it offsets the pilot to one side causing the hole saw to make the hole slightly bigger. I have a lathe so I bored the pilot hole of a cheap hole saw to a tight fit on slightly larger bit and used a quality drill bit. The holes were much closer to spec, I also trimmed the diameter of the cutters to fine tune it once the runout was solved.
Hey man thevwelds are coming along. One of the biggest game changers for me on tig was one be comfortable and two don't be afraid to put stuff under your elbows so you don't get fatigue mid weld
Clearly not, you should never sharpen your tungsten like that. There are a lot of mistakes about welding in this video, but first of all, sharpening tungsten should always be done In the parallel direction (as if you sharpening the tip of a pencil with a knife and not with a pencil sharpener) to avoid arc disturbance. A simple bench grinder will do the job, and you can easily adjust the sharpening angle by hand. 3D printing in this context is overkill and serves no purpose.
Thanks for the video. It was interesting to see how you built the table 👍 One remark regarding the price: It's not just that you spent on the raw materials, because you had to use lots of equipment and you also had to invest quite some time into designing and building the table.
Tips: - more heat = easier weld = more distortion due to the localized heating expanding the metal. Practice with lower amperage. - Depending on the materials you weld, you need higher amperage, for instance welding (or rather brazing) copper needs a torch due to copper's extreme heat conductivity. - Some materials do not weld together - high carbon steel has higher heat conductivity, meaning HSS for instance can be welded but you need to crank it up a lot more - You need to adjust your filler speed based on the amount of heat you put in, and stay consistent with your movement, which is why your welds do not look good, there's times you're approaching the fill rod, then moving it back. Welding colder allows you to keep feeding the fill rod in a consistent manner - With MIG and TIG you need some place for the weld to go. You could have ground chamfers on the weld spots on each piece in order to make a deeper V groove for the weld to fill up. - Prepping your weld surfaces is important, as oxides can form very quickly. So a bit of sandpaper on the surface right before welding is a good idea to have the welds penetrate deeper.
If the weld doesn't properly form on a lower current setting, one will for sure input more heat into the part when compared to higher current with a shorter duration. It's not just about the amps, but also the speed, thus the time of application.
You're doing great for a beginner welder. Most beginners don't start on tig. I have very little experience with tig, but I do have my all position CWB ticket for SMAW. The one thing I noticed about your welds is you're not allowing the two base metals to form a single puddle before you dab your filler rod. Try starting the arc and doing small circular motions until the two base metals form a single puddle, then add your filler. Continuing on is basically the same procedure, move about half the original puddle distance and let the two base metals form together and add filler. Can't wait to see your progress and skill develop, cheers.
@@brianwelch1579 That is true. When I grind my terrible looking welds I can see that I have steel all through it and no porosity. It is actually another reason why I want to grind my welds. Just to see that I didnt mess up.
As an mechanical Engineer, i ould say, really well done. you can mill 0.1 mm from the top, this is jsut for aditional paralelity., but even now it looks and is amazing, and in 99% of the time will do the job.
Al principio del vídeo tenía sospechas de que esta persona fuese alemán, Ya al acabar.. no me cabe mínima duda, he disfrutado con la pasión de hacer bien las cosas 👌
Welds look pretty good! the heat from welding doesn't actually warp the part (once it has cooled to a consistent temp). Most of the warping comes from the decrease in density during the phase change (moving from liquid to solid).
Warping is due to: - Heat up the material: it expands, causing stress in the part, like stretching a spring. - If it cools before getting too hot, the spring goes back to its original shape. - Soften or melt the hottest zone: it loses strength and relieves the stress *in that zone, at that temperature*. But not in the rest of the material. - As the part cools, the previously hot zone shrinks: it's now being held stretched-out by the rest of the material. This tension causes the warp.
Well done, nothing like your 1st big project to get your welding practise on. My 1st big project was my bolt together 3m garage workbench. Use methylated spirits for cleaning - a lot nicer to use. I find for tacking do it very quick using high amps - minimises heat distortion :o) Now you have a flat table you will find everything else is crooked like your garage floor haha. And yes drill from the welded seam side or risk breaking 3mm drills. Oh and always clamp stuff when drilling - its not worth getting a broken wrist when a tool jams; and you get more accuracy too. And one other knowledge nugget - do long\big builds in the same environment; I did a project in winter once in a unheated garage and measurement differences between the cold mornings and late sunny afternoons were noticeable in steel over 1m long!
As usual Marius....Outstanding project, video, and results! Your welding skills have already taken shape. All you need now are a few more machines to have a complete prototype shop! I recommend a milling machine next. One with a DRO and you can forget about marking, punching and drilling holes.
I love your videos, but welding after using brake cleaner is no bueno for your health... really a bad idea to transfer to people who don't know better.
I always enjoy watching your projects, but typically find them overkill for what my abilities are currently. But this looks like it's right up my alley as someone who also wants to get into welding. Thanks for sharing!
Excellent video. I love it so much that you are so honest about your flaws. But, you made something that I will always dream of having. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and details.
Awesome build! From a welding perspective. Don't hesitate to crank amps up, it will help with heat transfer (more amps, less time welding, less heat goes outside of welding area), and get yourself a welding pedal, it will be night and day difference.
Wow, what a great project again. Just as always ^^ And I know I may sound too carefuo now, but always remember to keep the air circulation when welding. Argon is heavier then air and could build up in closed room when you are welding for a long time :)
I am so impressed. Maybe colour code the holes that are aligning perfectly. Also maybe a metal sheet under the fixture to save the table under it. Fantastic work.
Just to re-iterate so hopefully more people see. NO BRAKECLEANER. Bad stuff in general, but extra bad when welded. Acetone is the solvent you want for metal cleaning. Also, a sweater is a bad choice for metal cutting. Chips will stick in a loose weave and good chance it is not the most flame resistant. Your drilling prep was some of the best I have seen. Great example of getting consistent test results before starting.
Certainly a fun little project I say. Although regarding the 16mm holes and maintaining their size I personally would opt looking for a 16mm chuck reamer (if an ongoing project calls for LOTS of holes that size, and usually relatively inexpensive ~£35-£50) as they maintain a + tolerance ranging from 0.02-0.05mm depending on which fit specification, just a machinist's POV but the step drill was also the best option there, good solution 👍 love this video
Hi Marius! Well done for the first time welding! My first project was way back in 1988 coverting the heating system in my parents house from oil to district heating. I used up roughly 6m of pipe for training oxyacetylene welding before I got it right. Since you mention the inspiration by Manfred - I'm asking myself, why you didn't copy his design-feature of leaving a 2-3cm space between the profiles? They are great since you can stick regular clamps through the slot and clamp your stuff to the surface. I like your Idea of creating undersized holes with a saw and then use the staged drill-bit. Manfred did the full hole with the staged bit which - to be honest - kept me so far from building the table with holes. Anyway great video! Cheers Andreas
As always your projects are very interesting. In the future, please tell us how this fixture table helped you learn or if it got in the way. As far i understand once you want better tolerances this configuration that you have wont be enough. but i am not a specialist and maybe in the future i will learn welding, so to know the capabilities of this diy table could be helpful in my journey.
It was awesome to see your growth from playing welder to actaully welding. I can see by the end you had the "aha" moment of where to dip the filler rod to work the puddle. Keep it up. Tig is fun
Great build, great content, great finished project. One thing (it's not a criticism) you might have cautioned about was the use of break cleaner. Great care should be taken against inhaling or getting it in your eyes. Also, some cleaner is highly flammable so that is a consideration. I know it's common sense stuff but it never hurts to remind those of us who might be less diligent in our personal safety. All that said, you have a great end result and I look forward to future videos putting it thru its paces. Thanks for posting.
Longtime Tig welder. Mainly stainless and aluminum. You don’t need such an extreme tip on your Tungsten. 30 degree is plenty for mild steel. Also those little tungsten sharpeners aren’t ideal. Chuck them up in the drill and use a belt sander while going slow. You want your grind lines on the tungsten to be as linear/ inline with the electrode as possible. Not horizontal across the tip like you’re getting from your sharpener. TrickTools has a good bench grinder/ belt sander mod kit which works perfect.
Awesome work. I found in China welding tables between 800-1500 Euros. Still to much for me so been thinking about making my self now for sometime. Following your construction makes it easy done. Thanks ☺️
Amazing project. You can make excentric dogs with expandable lock to compensate for the small errors in the table. That way you can always get perfect alignment. Excellent content as usual.
Great video and project as always! Closer and closer to a 100% metal channel. 🥰😉 Not to sound like a jerk, but measuring with snap gauges and then use calipers, in a hole that’s easily accessible with the backside of the said calipers… That only adds one more potential source of error and takes more time. But I can of course be wrong. 🤷♂️
@@alexandercameron361 Don’t like to start an argument, but what is happening at 4:00 and 6:00 Ish then you say? After watching a second time, at 6:15 he does what I meant he should the whole time. Using the backside of the calipers. Missed that the first time. Sorry. At the lathe the mic is used though… 🤷♂️
I wanted a table like this for a long time! I used to use a plastic table for welding! :))) So... yeah! This would be a major improvement! Thanks for sharing!
Dipping my toes into the world of welding was fun. I went the extra mile and made plans for this project. Check them out and support these videos: mariushornberger.com/products/welding-fixture-table-plans
I am a student.
But I still watching your video always.
I love your ideas.
You give me motivation to do anything.
I love your video.
Moin, hab wie du viel mit holz und möbelbau zu tun gehabt und schweife gerade auch richtung metaller aus. Hab such schon ein wig gerät usw. Ich hatte tatsächlich überlegt mit genau die evolution kappsäge (R210CMS?) zu holen.. wie zufrieden bist du mit der?
Your welder has Tig Pulse function, you should read into it, it will give you more penetration on your weld while reducing heat buildup by pulsing between a high and low amperage.
Just wondering if you have you sheared the STL for the TIG sharper???
18:15
Is there anyway to get the stl and material list for the tig sharpener
A German engineer that says good enough with a 0.1 mm tolerance on his first welding project. Well done sir and a tip of the hat to you.
Ja, Standards sind heutzutage niedriger. 😉
My mother said: "gut genug kann besser sein".
I'm half German. I've abandoned leatherworking projects because they were off less than a tenth of a mm
@@RFC3514I’ve got tears in my eyes from laughing, literally! Danke!
Hi Marius, ich mag ja deine Videos aber leider reicht mein Englisch dafür nicht aus, gibt es die auch in dt. oder mit dt. Untertitel? Aber sonst weiter machen.
Hey professional welder here, by the quick clip at 17:23 it seems like your using too much gas.
It also looks like your using a cup size 7 or 8, a general rule of thumb is taking the cup size and adding 2. That gives you your desired gas flow, with a little bit extra for any leaks.
Whenever I adjust my gas flow I light up on a scrap piece and if there is no "scratching" noise as the amps slump down, then I know I got the right flow set.
If it does still scratch, then it's just a matter of adjusting it up or down and trying again.
Initial slump up (or slope) isn't generally something I use, it's annoying when tacking and only useful when you wanna restart on a weld with a bit better penetration. But avoid making the bead any wider right at the start. So for aesthetics basically.
20:42 THIS, it's by no means perfect but these few seconds are how you "should" be welding all the time. The excessive angle of your torch isn't technically correct, but it does reduce penetration and thusly reduce warping. 10-20 degrees from perpendicular is the "correct" angle.
20:47 it's miles better, notice how the weld initially "wets out" smoothly in the beginning and then sort of folds up on itself a few dips later?
What's happening is your initially welding with the correct amount of heat in the weld puddle, (THIS, it's not the amount of heat applied, its how hot the puddle is.) for those initial few dips you are welding at the correct speed. But as you were getting started you applied more heat than needed, so you succesfully made use of the excess heat but then failed to compensate (slowing down slightly) when this excess heat ran out.
20:57 use thinner filler wire, I would say a 1,6 would be plenty for this. 2,0 and you sort of have to use another dipping technique in order to not dramatically change how hot the weld puddle is with every single dip of filler.
21:49 If you had extra pipe available I would've tacked them on as a strongback in order to prevent warping, you'd still get some but much MUCH less than you'd expect.
Thank you, Sensei!
Fantastic feedback, thanks for taking the time to do a proper breakdown
To add onto your gas flow tip:
The rule of thumb in metric is that your gas flow in L/H should be around equal to the inner diameter off your cup in mm. Reduce it by ~20% for fillet welds and increase it by ~20% for gapped welds.
Thank you really much. Exactly the feedback I was looking for!
Excellent comment. Very helpful.
Awesome build! I learnt some great things watching!!!
Oh my god it’s Alec Steele ha.
Hey, thank you Alec!
I don't know what you learned, but the steam hammer isn't going to like it.
I need an Alec/Marius colab in my life!
можно было бы сделать проще - быстрее и точнее, насверлив отверстий после сборки щита.
Dude, I'm a fabricator, and your welds need work, but my God, that tolerance and checking technique with the tools you have is just beautiful to watch. I absolutely love your videos.
WOW. He clearly said his welds need work and that he’s a beginner and you still need to point that out before commenting on his QC techniques. 🤦♂️
I’m sure you’d be a great mentor in a shop. 🥺
@@Crewsyhe also said feel free to roast me
@@Crewsy Why are you whining?
@@UnbeltedSundew Probably a Gen Z, they get hurt feelings very easily 🤣🤣
Really taking a positive comment about his technique, blatant ability and thought process to be something negative, that's wild. @Crewsy
That 3D printed jig for sharpening tungsten bits is **chef's kiss** Awesome project and thanks for sharing your process!
I agree! I bought something similar years ago that was 3d printed and it's not "*chef's kiss*"!
As a beginner I went to the grinding wheel with 5 needles a few times a day, it was incredibly annoying. This would have been so nice to use.
Belt sander and drill for tungsten sharpening.
Guys guys,guys.....he's into welding now....
In a few videos time he will be building his own water jet machine eith better features than a commercially available machine
nth dimenstion movable head.
That would be great. Upvoted 😂
Cnc upgrade on the lathe, with stock feeder, and part catcher.
3d printed EDM!
Yes finally. I am as well so I've been patiently waiting, and now his new ideas are hopefully more applicable to my projects too.
For the Welding part, when you get used to it and build muscle memory, you'll heat your workpieces less if you up the amps on your welder en weld faster, that's why you were having trouble early with the 110 amps setup compared to the 130 amps setup. Great job for a beginner that's a nice project!
Haha, my dad once told me "Higher temps to keep it cool." Real welding wisdome!
I’m not much of a welder, but that’s similar advice for cooking! If it’s too dry, use higher temps because the innards won’t get as hot before the outside is done!
I’ve never welded but the same applies to soldering. Higher temperatures -> quicker soldering -> less heat into the parts.
Weld two pieces of scrap from your weld table with the same weld settings. Then cut through the weld on your cool saw, then you can check that your weld is penetrating the metal stock correctly.
You have the best TH-cam channel.
YES. TH-camrs are the WORST for not testing welds. Also welds two pieces together and then BREAK the weld and see what happens. "great looking" welds can be garbage too..
His welds look good from the outside, no need. Good melting and enough filler
@@HnkkaTrue. These are not structural welds.
The algorithm recommended this video three times before I watched it, because I thought I wasn't interested in a makeshift welding table. But there is absolutely no makeshift work here. This guy does metalworking at an exceptionally high level compared to what I expected. And it's extremely educational. This video is very, very good! I'm grateful for it! :)
I know this is an older video, but man for a newbie welder you did GREAT, what an awesome job. And great idea to use square tubing. I never even thought of that myself.
One day, and after many years, you'll flip that table over, and those newbie welds will remind you how much you've improved. Keep up the great work!!
OK, that Dremel welding nib grinder jig just had me. Sooooo gooooddd!! I'm locked in. Budding welder who'll find your channel super helpful. Love the engineer focused approach.
I Just Love how he builds Stuff so insanely accurate and perfect in His basement Workshop. I know people that do welding for a living and would never Put that amount of precision and perfection in a welding table
His work is very imperfect- he would be the first to admit that. The cool part is he thinks around the imperfections which is a much more important skill than striving for perfection.
I've seen some wonky welded parts in my time from professional fabricators!
Wow! An epic amount of work but so nice to watch. I came across another DIY welding table video in which he repurposes the cast iron table from an old table saw. Doesn't provide the same level of clamp mounts but isn't bad and way easier.
Your bit is wobbling which is pretty normal in most drill press and shops, therefore if you use a vice for your base metal its fixed and that bit play will make your hole bigger, therefore if you hold it slightly by hand it actually helps you and allows your base metal to play together with a bit and your hole ends up more precise.
Instead of Brake Cleaner PLEASE USE ACETONE when welding!!! John Cadogan talks about the tragic Phosphene gas generated by heating Brake Cleaner indoors when welding causing a non-recovery in the patient.
Thanks for the heads up brother.
Or just wait 6 minutes and it's entirely evaporated....
Luckily these days chlorinated brake cleaners are increasingly rare and banned in many places, but it's definitely a good idea to check ones own. I couldn't find a single one in Finland for instance.
Just use non chlorinated brake cleaner.
@@Kreivos That may be the case in Europe, but I think it's still pretty commonly available in North America.
You could lift the bottle with the hose to stop the transfer to keep from having to aim liquid a meter up from your bottle :)
Or lift the hose out of the liquid, the other end.
Great Work
German engineering is in the house. Like your tolerance checking tips and "pins based approach" in building the surface of table. Appreciate for sharing, sir.
What a massive amount of work!!
But the results are top tier! I love that you can put this to the side against the wall, make adjustments as needed and it is so affordable. Great work all around! 👍
I love that you're showing your beginner welding journey! Very awesome, looks like you are doing a great job. One of my favourite upgrades was a smaller torche (9 series) with a stubby back cap and stubby gas lens, made controlling the torch so much easier for me. Thanks for all of your videos, you've inspired me many times over
Nicely done! I had a local company laser cut 6 mm steel plate with holes, slots and tabs for me. Just weld together. Was about 130 Euro. Found the drawings online.
The biggest difference for me when tig welding was swapping out the large handle with the buttons and going for a much smaller ck torch and a foot pedal...so much more control, will never go back.
Can you share the drawings or any images?
normal sagt man ca. 40A pro MM - da bist du mit den 130 besser bedient als mit den 110 - was ich aber empfehlen kann, ist ein fußpedal, da kannst du dann direkt reagieren und entweder mehr oder weniger leistung geben, z.b wenn du ans ende der naht kommst, langsam die leistung rausnehmen, so dass du die ecken nicht wegbläst
Sauerkraut Schnitzel
Very cool video! A huge thing that hit me as I was watching this was the time vs. money problem. If you don't have money but you have time this is an awesome project. If you have the money but not the time to build this.... yeah just buy a fixture table and get back to work. Lol. Again, great tutorial!
I think you should indicate your pilar drill spindle and see what's going on. I know that bits can be curved slightly, which is not great, but if the spindle is running out of true, that will compound your issues.
also check the drill spindle is 90deg to the drilling table
I am betting this is the reason even the undersized hole saw was cutting oversides, if he setup a dial indicator on it I bet there was a full 0.5mm of runout overall.
@@BestLittleStudio at least,
I can't remember ever having seen welding shot with exposure that let me see what was happening. At first, I didn't realize that's what you had done, but it's super interesting to see. Now I wish everyone who welds in TH-cam videos would do that!
You mean like every welding channel does...
I would say that, as a basic method, you could just use a welding shield glass in front of the lens to produce that?
After having to have tiny slivers of steel removed from my right eye twice now, i always wear a full face shield. The crazy thing is, both times i was wearing safety glasses. Well... first time was glasses, the second time were these dewalt goggles which had a little gap near the nose that a piece flew in, bounced and hit my eye.
Funny thing is... it is BECAUSE of the "safety precautions" that you choose to do things that you would not otherwise... you make lesser good decisions BECAUSE you "FEEL SAFE" than you would doing nothing...
Yes be carefull !! I had to go in one week 3 times to the hospital and the eyedoc had to drill into my right eyeball to get al the rusty metal out . Then it took me 2 weeks with an lens in my eye becouse the drill holes in my own lens did not heal .12x a day drops in my eye .it was hell .so you are warned. Use perfect eye protection 😊!!!
I was very impressed with the sander build and the amazing features you designed in. But now you have another great build. For manual drilling, machining and welding I think your results are fantastic. Well done.
"And since step drills aren't the most precise tools in the world, it made the exact hole size I was looking for."
When you can sarcasm that good, you have a very good handle on English as a second language.
Seriously!😂😂
Marius, I just spent the last few weeks watching all your videos and am impressed with your sense of humor, innovation, and best of all, the way you analyze multiple solutions to a problem and give your reasoning for the solution you choose. In an early random shop talk and also your first live event you were asked how you got into woodworking and you response was the answer is long, involved, and interesting enough that it deserves its own video. Does that video exist?
that's just amazingly accurate i am blown away
Wie immer: Klasse Video!
Ich schaue dir schon lange zu und hab mir schon die eine oder andere Inspiration bei dir geholt.
Auch wenn ich schon seit 5 Jahren einen massiven Schweißtisch habe und nicht daran denke ihn zu ersetzen, habe ich das Video gespannt verfolgt.
Auch wenn die Präzision bei weitem nicht von nöten ist, schlägt mein Ingenieurs-Herz höher, wenn ich sehe wie du versuchst das letzte Zehntel raus zu holen 😍
weiter so!
with all the holes, perhaps you can make a fume extractor that draws the fumes down through the table, away from you. Great build. Thank you for sharing!
Not good idea. It would almost guarantee to lose shielding. Would work for stick, but nothing else.
Like a different reply mentioned: it would mess up your gas shielding.
The shielding gas used when welding is heavier than regular atmospheric gases, so the fume extractor would be pulling your gas coverage away from your weld area.
Overhead extraction is much better at shielding you from toxic fumes, since its actively redirecting the fumes that might move towards you.
The best solution would be an atmospheric welding hood. But a regular breathing hose with proper heat shielding is a solid alternative for hobbyists. If no precautions are taken to reduce fume inhalation, the air behind a welder is already about 90% cleaner than the air near the weld. So with a simple hose and a well ventilated workspace you can greatly reduce long term health risks.
@@Yzerbruh Yes. This is why professional welding helmets have battery powered blower unit on users lower back, which pulls air through filter and slightly overpressurizes welding helmet protecting user from fumes via air hose.
This is the best DIY welding table I've seen so far. Hats off.
Always impressed with people doing this :)
People say practice but people also forget its consumables and tools that cost not always the time.....Keep up what your doing def going to watch some of your other videos
thank you so much for putting the eye shields/flash warning!! there are so many youtubers who seem to think i want to watch ten minutes straight of white flashes rather than actually being able to see anything, and this was so much nicer.
Are you joking? 😂😂😂
Great work! I built a fixture table last winter and have used it a ton. I cannot critique your welding because I am no better. One suggestion is using annular cutters in your drill press. I started using them a couple years ago and the tolerances are way better. When I made my table with 288 holes through 19mm plate for the top it was very fast. Great work I am a new subscriber.
Decisive step drill victory.
He never knew his real drill.
Practice walking the cup. You place the cup of the metal and wiggle it back and forth. Also, just lay the wire down and wash over it instead of dipping it. You do great work and shoot for excellence.
wow I might actually have to do this!
One of the best tutorial videos, thanks so much for taking the time to focus 9n the details and showing the mistakes
200 holes made in a bunch of operations... HOLE-LY CRAP
I applaude your endurance and patience and congratulate you with the results!!
Hallo Marius
Super coole Idee, mega Präzision.
Steht nun auch auf meiner Liste für die Werkstatteinrichtung.
Kleiner Input noch:
Beim WIG schweissen bildet sich giftiges Ozon, sorge also auch bei diesem Verfahren für gute Belüftung im Raum. Die geringe Rauchentwicklung begünstigt die Ausbreitung zudem.
Freue mich auf weitere Videos von dir.
The biggest issue with your welds is consistency of when you add filler to your puddle and how consistent your lateral movement is.
I suggest walking the cup a bit less i.e. decreasing the amplitude of your oscillations, upping the current some more, and being extremely cogniscent about adding the filler always at the same point in your oscillation.
Torch angle is REALLY important here. Your filler must NEVER melt before touching the puddle. If you don't manage to achieve this, decrease arc gap and/or adjust torch angle accordingly
Awesome tips, thank you really much
Lovely video! I'v been watching your vids for years and it's inspiring to see how you're evolving your style over time. Great pacing without sacrificing too much on the details- I always struggle with that! So yeah, thanks for sharing your skills and learning :)
The sheer audacity of this man still calling himself a beginner after all the project he has finished is crazy work lol
I battled the hole saw diameter issue in the past. I found the issue with the cheap hole saws is the tolerance on the bore that holds the pilot drill and runout of the cheap drill bit they come with. When you tighten the set screw it offsets the pilot to one side causing the hole saw to make the hole slightly bigger. I have a lathe so I bored the pilot hole of a cheap hole saw to a tight fit on slightly larger bit and used a quality drill bit. The holes were much closer to spec, I also trimmed the diameter of the cutters to fine tune it once the runout was solved.
Can you send me the files for the dremel attachment for sharpening tungsten rods? That thing looks fantastic!!
GPPH is a very good company from Poland. Excellent quality and accuracy. I own one of their tables and it’s marvelous. 🎉
Hey man thevwelds are coming along. One of the biggest game changers for me on tig was one be comfortable and two don't be afraid to put stuff under your elbows so you don't get fatigue mid weld
You should share the tungsten tip grinding guide plans! Really cool.
Yeah I'd love to see those too, I'm rubbish at sharpening tips 😅
That would require that you have the same die grinder (what he calls "a Dremel too").
Clearly not, you should never sharpen your tungsten like that. There are a lot of mistakes about welding in this video, but first of all, sharpening tungsten should always be done In the parallel direction (as if you sharpening the tip of a pencil with a knife and not with a pencil sharpener) to avoid arc disturbance. A simple bench grinder will do the job, and you can easily adjust the sharpening angle by hand. 3D printing in this context is overkill and serves no purpose.
Thanks for the video. It was interesting to see how you built the table 👍
One remark regarding the price: It's not just that you spent on the raw materials, because you had to use lots of equipment and you also had to invest quite some time into designing and building the table.
Any plans for the steel chips?
You are a perfectionist in good understanding! The table turned out great!
Tips:
- more heat = easier weld = more distortion due to the localized heating expanding the metal. Practice with lower amperage.
- Depending on the materials you weld, you need higher amperage, for instance welding (or rather brazing) copper needs a torch due to copper's extreme heat conductivity.
- Some materials do not weld together
- high carbon steel has higher heat conductivity, meaning HSS for instance can be welded but you need to crank it up a lot more
- You need to adjust your filler speed based on the amount of heat you put in, and stay consistent with your movement, which is why your welds do not look good, there's times you're approaching the fill rod, then moving it back. Welding colder allows you to keep feeding the fill rod in a consistent manner
- With MIG and TIG you need some place for the weld to go. You could have ground chamfers on the weld spots on each piece in order to make a deeper V groove for the weld to fill up.
- Prepping your weld surfaces is important, as oxides can form very quickly. So a bit of sandpaper on the surface right before welding is a good idea to have the welds penetrate deeper.
More amps = faster weld = smaller heat affected zone = less distortion
If the weld doesn't properly form on a lower current setting, one will for sure input more heat into the part when compared to higher current with a shorter duration. It's not just about the amps, but also the speed, thus the time of application.
@@bowesterlund3719Exactly! Sorry for repeating your comment, YT rendered it only after I have already written mine.
@Dogeek We can tell you have never welded...
You're doing great for a beginner welder. Most beginners don't start on tig. I have very little experience with tig, but I do have my all position CWB ticket for SMAW. The one thing I noticed about your welds is you're not allowing the two base metals to form a single puddle before you dab your filler rod. Try starting the arc and doing small circular motions until the two base metals form a single puddle, then add your filler. Continuing on is basically the same procedure, move about half the original puddle distance and let the two base metals form together and add filler. Can't wait to see your progress and skill develop, cheers.
Thanks for the tips!
I've never been a good welder but I'm an Expert Grinder!
Brother!
A good welder THINKS his welds are good, a good grinder KNOWS his welds are good. Too many youtubers are not testing welds.
@@brianwelch1579 That is true. When I grind my terrible looking welds I can see that I have steel all through it and no porosity. It is actually another reason why I want to grind my welds. Just to see that I didnt mess up.
Quickly becoming one of my favorite channels. Great projects, great work, clever humor. Nice work!
As an mechanical Engineer, i ould say, really well done. you can mill 0.1 mm from the top, this is jsut for aditional paralelity., but even now it looks and is amazing, and in 99% of the time will do the job.
Al principio del vídeo tenía sospechas de que esta persona fuese alemán,
Ya al acabar.. no me cabe mínima duda, he disfrutado con la pasión de hacer bien las cosas 👌
Welds look pretty good! the heat from welding doesn't actually warp the part (once it has cooled to a consistent temp). Most of the warping comes from the decrease in density during the phase change (moving from liquid to solid).
Warping is due to:
- Heat up the material: it expands, causing stress in the part, like stretching a spring.
- If it cools before getting too hot, the spring goes back to its original shape.
- Soften or melt the hottest zone: it loses strength and relieves the stress *in that zone, at that temperature*. But not in the rest of the material.
- As the part cools, the previously hot zone shrinks: it's now being held stretched-out by the rest of the material. This tension causes the warp.
Well done, nothing like your 1st big project to get your welding practise on. My 1st big project was my bolt together 3m garage workbench. Use methylated spirits for cleaning - a lot nicer to use. I find for tacking do it very quick using high amps - minimises heat distortion :o) Now you have a flat table you will find everything else is crooked like your garage floor haha. And yes drill from the welded seam side or risk breaking 3mm drills. Oh and always clamp stuff when drilling - its not worth getting a broken wrist when a tool jams; and you get more accuracy too. And one other knowledge nugget - do long\big builds in the same environment; I did a project in winter once in a unheated garage and measurement differences between the cold mornings and late sunny afternoons were noticeable in steel over 1m long!
babe wake up new marius hornberger video
As usual Marius....Outstanding project, video, and results! Your welding skills have already taken shape. All you need now are a few more machines to have a complete prototype shop! I recommend a milling machine next. One with a DRO and you can forget about marking, punching and drilling holes.
looks extremely similar to Manfred Weldings design
Which is clearly explained in the description of the video
@@Animaniac-vd5st not entirely sure but that wasn't the case when I wrote this comment.
Wore a sweater and used a wooden shield? Heh.
Excellent video, job well done. I am just starting out in the world of tig welding . Thanks for taking the time to share. Cheers
I love your videos, but welding after using brake cleaner is no bueno for your health... really a bad idea to transfer to people who don't know better.
Chlorinated brake cleaner is not the only type of brake cleaner.
Nice job. I always enjoy watching your videos and you always have a working solution in mind. Great job
I always enjoy watching your projects, but typically find them overkill for what my abilities are currently. But this looks like it's right up my alley as someone who also wants to get into welding. Thanks for sharing!
Excellent video. I love it so much that you are so honest about your flaws. But, you made something that I will always dream of having. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and details.
Awesome build! From a welding perspective. Don't hesitate to crank amps up, it will help with heat transfer (more amps, less time welding, less heat goes outside of welding area), and get yourself a welding pedal, it will be night and day difference.
Congratulations... I wouldn't have this care and dedication. You are an excellent professional.
Wow, what a great project again. Just as always ^^
And I know I may sound too carefuo now, but always remember to keep the air circulation when welding. Argon is heavier then air and could build up in closed room when you are welding for a long time :)
I am so impressed. Maybe colour code the holes that are aligning perfectly. Also maybe a metal sheet under the fixture to save the table under it. Fantastic work.
Para ser principiante te desenvuelves de lujo. De principiante nada. Muy Buen trabajo y buenos resultados. Felicidades!!!
Great video! Well done young man
Just to re-iterate so hopefully more people see. NO BRAKECLEANER. Bad stuff in general, but extra bad when welded. Acetone is the solvent you want for metal cleaning.
Also, a sweater is a bad choice for metal cutting. Chips will stick in a loose weave and good chance it is not the most flame resistant.
Your drilling prep was some of the best I have seen. Great example of getting consistent test results before starting.
Certainly a fun little project I say. Although regarding the 16mm holes and maintaining their size I personally would opt looking for a 16mm chuck reamer (if an ongoing project calls for LOTS of holes that size, and usually relatively inexpensive ~£35-£50) as they maintain a + tolerance ranging from 0.02-0.05mm depending on which fit specification, just a machinist's POV but the step drill was also the best option there, good solution 👍 love this video
Hi Marius! Well done for the first time welding! My first project was way back in 1988 coverting the heating system in my parents house from oil to district heating. I used up roughly 6m of pipe for training oxyacetylene welding before I got it right.
Since you mention the inspiration by Manfred - I'm asking myself, why you didn't copy his design-feature of leaving a 2-3cm space between the profiles? They are great since you can stick regular clamps through the slot and clamp your stuff to the surface.
I like your Idea of creating undersized holes with a saw and then use the staged drill-bit. Manfred did the full hole with the staged bit which - to be honest - kept me so far from building the table with holes.
Anyway great video!
Cheers
Andreas
As always your projects are very interesting. In the future, please tell us how this fixture table helped you learn or if it got in the way. As far i understand once you want better tolerances this configuration that you have wont be enough. but i am not a specialist and maybe in the future i will learn welding, so to know the capabilities of this diy table could be helpful in my journey.
Well done Marius, a practical solution, for home hobbies what more does one need.
It was awesome to see your growth from playing welder to actaully welding. I can see by the end you had the "aha" moment of where to dip the filler rod to work the puddle. Keep it up. Tig is fun
Great build, great content, great finished project. One thing (it's not a criticism) you might have cautioned about was the use of break cleaner. Great care should be taken against inhaling or getting it in your eyes. Also, some cleaner is highly flammable so that is a consideration. I know it's common sense stuff but it never hurts to remind those of us who might be less diligent in our personal safety. All that said, you have a great end result and I look forward to future videos putting it thru its paces. Thanks for posting.
This is amazing! I might need to build one. It was nice meeting you at Open Sauce!
Longtime Tig welder. Mainly stainless and aluminum.
You don’t need such an extreme tip on your Tungsten.
30 degree is plenty for mild steel.
Also those little tungsten sharpeners aren’t ideal.
Chuck them up in the drill and use a belt sander while going slow.
You want your grind lines on the tungsten to be as linear/ inline with the electrode as possible. Not horizontal across the tip like you’re getting from your sharpener.
TrickTools has a good bench grinder/ belt sander mod kit which works perfect.
Love the tungsten grinder! Sharing the plans would make the world a better place :)
You can find a lot of plans and stl on printables :)
@@gianlucat_99.16 Yeas, but all the Designs are not good
That was effing great. Thanks for all the details, tipps and tricks!
Awesome work. I found in China welding tables between 800-1500 Euros. Still to much for me so been thinking about making my self now for sometime. Following your construction makes it easy done. Thanks ☺️
Amazing project.
You can make excentric dogs with expandable lock to compensate for the small errors in the table. That way you can always get perfect alignment.
Excellent content as usual.
Good that you’re getting metalworking!
Definitely a primo technique!
It is surely a lot of hard working and you did it precisely. I wonder as if easier with a metal laser cutter (outsourcing)?
Hi, Marius! You never disappoint! Instructional and funny. And you clearly are an excellent engineer!
Amazing work! Very inspiring. Loved the ball detent mechanism. Great details like that really make this a must-watch.
Great video and project as always!
Closer and closer to a 100% metal channel. 🥰😉
Not to sound like a jerk, but measuring with snap gauges and then use calipers, in a hole that’s easily accessible with the backside of the said calipers…
That only adds one more potential source of error and takes more time.
But I can of course be wrong. 🤷♂️
Yeah you are, he is using a mic not calipers when using the bore gauge.
@@alexandercameron361
Don’t like to start an argument, but what is happening at 4:00 and 6:00 Ish then you say?
After watching a second time, at 6:15 he does what I meant he should the whole time. Using the backside of the calipers. Missed that the first time. Sorry.
At the lathe the mic is used though…
🤷♂️
Excellent. Enough detail to inspire any DIY guy.
U.S., Arizona. Subscribed today.
Thank you.
This is why you're channel is outstanding brother
Don’t sweat the funky welds buddy they will improve with practice. And don’t forget a grinder and paint make you the welder you want to be!!!
I wanted a table like this for a long time! I used to use a plastic table for welding! :))) So... yeah! This would be a major improvement! Thanks for sharing!