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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2024
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This laser might be the coolest way to remove rust... but is it the best? We tested rust removal techniques from cheap to expensive to find out.
Shout out to Senfeng for sharing their laser cleaning machine with us!
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The part from the race track is a engine secondary balancer used to eliminate the secondary engine vibration, usualy its 1 or 2 of them spining at 2x engine rpm.
Totally agree!
What type of engine? Must be something small?
@@fopeezy3097 i think motocycles engine ... Kawasaki z1000 have a similar balancer shaft
Definitely a balance shaft from some small engine
I was thinking that it looked like a camshaft from a small engine...
3 things:
1- the parts from the race track are balance shafts from an engine
2- Evap-o-Rust works much better than CLR, it isn't harmful to good paint and plastics, it is reusable, and it's environmentally friendly. I have used that stuff a bit and LOVE it!
3- the LASER system is thermal ablative LASER system. I have worked with this system in my previous role at work. It requires a specific focal length of the lens for the application it is being used on, hence why it didn't do as well with the paint as it truly can in this demonstration. With the correct lens on it, it is possible to take off individual layers of paint if you want. It REALLY should have an evacuation system on it for the fumes.
Question in regards of that laser machine. It removes rust, but what about other oxidation found in other metals such as copper? That green oxidation
@@lonestarlonewolf that would be a question for the company. I would imagine that with the correct lens and frequency, etc that it could be done, but I am not an expert on their system's capabilities. We used it for a cleaning system.
@@lonestarlonewolf Tabasco will do the trick. I'm not even joking.
I’ve used Evap-o-Rust and it worked well on rusty tools for me. It’s nice to be able to strain it through a fine or medium cone paint filter and do more tools. Didn’t discolor or effect rubbery handle grips or printing.
Those fumes are no joke, you are breathing in vaporized metal. That’s extremely no bueno
This honestly made me want to look into purchasing an ultrasonic parts cleaner. Being able to completely set and "forget" for 10 minutes for rust removal sounds amazing.
Right?!
It's totally the way to go for a home mechanic. I'm a motorcycle guy and you can't beat it for carb cleaning and parts degreasing. Grab your favorite environmentally and aluminum safe cleaner and water, toss in your parts and hit the button. You may have to lightly WD-40 your parts if they are prone to rust when you pull them out of the water. It is a bit loud, has a high pitched screeching sound. Works great. I even throw my greasy gloves in there when I'm done.
I have one, and it's great for fine dirt removal. But I would never use it to remove rust. Electrolysis is the way to go, but unlike this video, it's imperative that the rusty part is the cathode (negative), and the scrap metal is the anode (positive).
Ultrasonic, citric acid, and wire brush are peak. Sandblasting or the likes are cool if you have the equipment.
@@FourRulesRacing it's almost like it has an ultrasonic sound :P
I agree with the round 2 suggestion - rust removal with all the other techniques! The practical side of your videos is great. Thank you.
Boiling rusty tools is an option, too. That process is called bluing and it creates a black oxide finish that further protects from rust. Not sure how effective it would be, but I think it would have been something that would have been cool to cover in this video
You mean this bluing process? do you make steel blue?
Heat the steel to temperatures from 400 to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, to produce oxidation colors. At 480 degrees F., the steel turns brown, at 520 degrees, it turns purple, at 575 degrees, it turns blue and at 800 degrees, it turns grey. These temperatures are commonly used in tempering tool steel.Apr
The video is about rust removal, not rust conversion or prevention.
@@F0XD1E You may be right, but conversion is better than removal.
@@sethry1561 Generally you want to remove as much as possible before you convert, otherwise you risk leaving rust underneath where the conversion process will reach and it can continue to spread.
@@sethry1561 depends on the part. If it's something like that pipe wrench where you have sliding surfaces, it would be better to get down to bare metal and then hit it with grease so you have a smoother surface.
Tool party has RAPIDLY become my favorite shows Donut makes, Zach and Jeremiah have so much chemistry on camera it’s insane, Zach for sure my favorite donut member, but Jeremiah is just too funny
@LeoS Freaking Donut Media, dingus
@@amihere383 Donut Media starts to rival Top Gear now.
Maybe they'll make out.
@@BabyJesus66 make out for what?
@LeoS cool?
I LOVE Jeremiah & Zach team up videos. Y'all are goofy and hilarious. Keep 'em coming!
Glad you discussed responsible disposal of chemical waste. Also, glad that you did wear respirators and safety glasses (I noticed that the pre-filter was missing on respirators, and I had some concerns regarding sandblasting booth safety and chemical exposure). Can't stress it enough, breathing is important and protecting your vision is also extremely important...traumatic eye injuries...horrible. Love the video; very informative. Thanks for answering many questions I had about removing rust. Stay safe.
A couple things from years of diy experience, low budget info from the days I was rebuilding 1950’s lathes and tons of other diy projects:
So first, I don’t feel abrasion got the attention it could have, being one of my favorite methods actually. Wire brushes suck but works where you need them, wire cups in a drill, only really good for inside corners but it has its place. The big one that wasn’t included in the video, a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Big ole 8-12” wire wheel on a well balanced, strong bench grinder and very importantly, some good impact safety glasses will have you wishing you would’ve found it years ago. You can do large items to your hearts content. If you do smaller stuff like bolts or nuts, I suggest vice grips to hold em and careful of your surroundings because you can send em flyin!
Second: chemical category.. so clr has its place, but there are a lot of other chemicals for removing rust, most commonly you’ll find acid based removers. A few things to keep in mind if anyone is ever using chemical method, or electrolysis: first, these methods usually tend to have effects on the metal itself. You can damage the metal under the rust beyond what the rust has effected alone, they can slowly eat away the metal depending what you use, second. Be very aware that any items left exposed to the air will create horrible erosion where the water line sits. It’s because at the water/chemical line, you get the effects of both rust being removed, but also being exposed to the air it’ll flash rust and then rust remover will remove that and it creates a line where it eats into the metal and leaves a gnarly line of metal missing.
One product that I highly recommend everyone at least knows about (not sponsored) is evaporust, because it’s different than most rust removing chemicals, it uses chelation to remove rust, rather than acid. Which targets ONLY the rust, which is very important if you’re trying to remove only rust and keep all parent metals in tact. This was especially important to me when restoring metal parts to my lathe in order to keep very tight tolerances and not cause more harm than good. You can look up the chelation process if you want because I feel my comment is already too long but just wanted to drop some knowledge from years of personal experience!
Excellent info. I'll definitely look into chelation and evaporust. That makes perfect sense with the lathe example.
I'm stoked to find your comment, and was just about to write my own about evaporust. I've been plugging it since I first used it to restore a frozen bike chain!
You're doing gods work for us fellow rust fighters. God bless
Legend
Donut should pin this comment
I’ve always just kept a couple gallons of used oil in a bucket. Drop the rusty tool in grab it out a couple weeks to a month later depending on rust level and wipe it off. Works great!
Really?
Hell yeah, old farmer trick. I remember growing up damn near every farm had the oil bucket, usually with something rusty or stuck soaking in it. 😁
I’ve lived in Kansas and Colorado my whole life. Rust is an everyday. Not only does this get the rust off but it will treat the tools so they don’t rust so fast again.
Definitely the cheapest way to get it done, but that is assuming that you dont need that particular tool or part for a month.
@@xXEGPXx that's why you pick up 8 of everything at auctions 🤣
Great fun video. The big laser was a beast of a thing. I have used those very coarse scourer type wheels that go on a grinder and the sandpaper type flapper wheels. They work great at cleaning up metal.
Love these testing videos! You guys save me so much time and money! Thank you so much!
Nobody ever seems to use distilled white vinegar. I use that stuff all the time and it works so well! Super cheap, safe, and environmentally friendly.
I was looking for this comment, I was expecting a lot more people to say this
Works like a charm! 1-2 days submerged and good as new!
Yep, white vinegar is what I do too. And it's a fraction of the cost of other rust removers.
I'm very surprised that nobody use this trick. White vinegar only cost like $1 in my country.
Heck. I use it to clean coffee makers and all sorts of other junk
13:07 the bloke running the laser doesn’t seem to worry about his eyes 😂😂😂
He's used to it lol
@@user-ke1gn3ql1g And the age-old saying may ring true ... "Do not look into laser with remaining eye"
Yeap not the brightest thing to do. Kinda a worry given its what he does for a living.
I think it's because the laser is infrared and from the angle he's standing there won't be any direct reflection of laser light. Only the brightness of the burning rust
@@SafetyLucas Perhaps that's true, but even welding arcs can cause permanent damage, and it does appear that the laser is zapping the rust with similar intensity. Well, not my eyes anyway.
The part you found at the track is a counterbalance weight probably for a motorcycle, I had one in my Suzuki 500.
Yeah it's a counter balance shaft of HONDA GX240 or 270 multi-purpose engine
On the chemicals side, if you want a solution that costs near zero look into vinegar. Especially in your Sonic setup, the combination of the ultrasonic and the vinegar would pretty much remove any surface buildup as well as transforming the rest into that gorgeous black finish you saw a couple times which is actually rust preventative.
I can’t say I know how it does on car parts, but I have used vinegar on things like costume jewelry and the results were great
It works on cleaning toilets as well, even with no scrubbing.
Coca cola and vinegar would be comparable in my opinion.
@@Lwnmwrboy5 while the tannins in Coca-Cola have some benefit, vinegar is a thing all of its own. Using something like cola in a chemical bath tends to leave a residue.
@@leechowning2712 The phosphoric acid in coca-cola is what helps similar to acetic acid (vinegar). Phosphoric acid has some benefits over acetic acid when it comes to iron oxides.
I love how the trained Laser Tech doesn’t wear his safety glasses for the Big Laser.
i agree
In my experience, lots of dudes that have been doing construction for a while also tend to not wear them... For example, my father. Regularly cuts glass with a high speed blade, rarely wear safety glasses...
@@Crypticdragon1 yeah, but this is different. A laser like this just needs to hit the smallest piece of reflective material, and you are blind. Plus a powerful enough one can blind you on the reflection off almost anything. The actual laser guys like styropyro know to always wear your laser safety glasses, or you will be walking around with different glasses and a cane
@@marcusborderlands6177 how is that any different. One shard of glass or the wheel shattering on a cut off wheel or any number of things you are blind too. Or dead.
When you level up in laser tech training your eyes get a natural immunity to lasers. In face, platinum level laser techs can shoot lasers from their eyes.
Dude I’ve watched this show for 3years and they never disappoint with any episode they put out. Your doing amazing
I am new to this channel, so far they have been pretty good ; surprised you're not a *#Patron_Member**"*
@@icosthop9998 lol I want to but my pockets are emptier than a dogs
@@Carrovroom 🤣🤣😂🤣🤣
TY 😅
You got me RoLLing here 😂
LOLz I have Never heard that expression before ❗️👌❗️🤣❗️
I'm holding off buying my 1st EV , so ATM I don't have a bank note.
I'm🙏 praying 🙏 once I do start paying on that EV, my pockets don't end up by yours 😳
Electrolysis is friggin awesome. Science is so rad. I watch a lot of restoration videos that use this method, but I've always wanted to try it myself
This was a super cool video definitely learned alot. Cool idea for a possible high low season or something. Get 2 antique cars and laser them or use cheaper options for the low team. Whoever makes the best value restored car wins. I thought it was a cool idea. Love you guys. Never stop making videos.❤️
What I love about electrolysis is the fact it is "self-regulating" and it converts the existing metal to a stable oxide state. Also, it gets into spaces you can not with mechanical rust methods. My advice is to do it outside strictly because of the hydrogen released, better safe than sorry!
@@LukiRudaka the latex furry in tha donut media comment section
A great use for electrolysis is cleaning the inside of Rusty motorcycle tanks. Ones where owners have left a little bit of gas in them for years and it just rusted the hell out of the inside. Works great I've had wonderful using electrolysis method
@@dennisspencer546 my dad has done that on a few fuel tanks for his old cars and the results are spectacular.
Even better, burn the hydrogen so it cant accumulate :))
And What I hate about that set up is how fricking easy it would be to electrocute yourself...
Love this show! And I don't even use tools but I've love the hosts' energy and the fact that they are helping us decide on tools
My two favorites on donut for shurrzy
How is it physically possible that a dude, doesn’t use tools? Genuinely curious.
@@ryanschaff2507 well I use tools around the house, but I meant more mechanic stuff I don't really use.
Awesome video! Thank you for making this. I love how you show knowledgeable videos that help out people. You guys doing all the work . Appreciate it.
You Guy's are the BEST Channel for Cars and Tool's. Keep on doing you'r thing. Awesome!!!!
when you're sandblasting stuff it's usually a good idea to use enclosed camera instead of doing it in the open. you can recycle sand multiple times too
I love how these MF'ers hired a token black dude. I bet he has to sweep up and pick their crops after each video.
Some types of media become less efficient when reused
Some yes but all the same the mess much reduced alao potential damage from all the free particles
@@SteveFuentesRacing you can still drain it and pour in the fresh batch. it’s easier to clean out a small box than an entire workshop
@@deptusmechanikus7362 yes I agree a blast cabinet or some type of enclosure Is best whether you recycling the media or not
It's pretty cool seeing how the laser has a harder time with colors with red in them giving a visualization of the wavelength of light used
Yeah….. it wasnt that impressive…… 50 grand fur such a shit-tool…….than people should laser their common sense….
because from what I know is that rust lasers aren't supposed to affect the paint their suppose to only affect the rust and not damage any of the metal underneath no matter how much you do
these dudes' rivalry is hilarious
My wife got an ultrasonic cleaner for her furniture refurbishing and they are awesome for removing rust on really old pieces. We never thought of putting a jar of CLR in it though. That's a great suggestion.
What solution did you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?
FYI sand blasting:
The dust it creates is *EXTREMELY* dangerous... if you are going to go this rout you will most DEFINITELY want a proper setup - can can cause *PERMANENT health problems*
(depending on your equipment, you can use the sand multiple times, but it does get to a point that it can no longer be used - mostly around 3 to 6 times)
use Bi-Carb , Its already a powder an won't damage the metal
It depends on which material you're using in your blaster. Silica sand in most blasters is okay if you have proper dust control, but can be dangerous for your health if not. The glass beads (using an acrylic compound) are much safer, but also I would advise good dust control and a nice way to wash them in an eco-friendly way. Walnut or bi-carb is also on the safer side, but there's two schools of thought on walnut, as a lot of wood working teachers exposed to hardwood dusts end up with lung diseases.. but that could also be how much they stress smoke. haha
I was about to say...there are enclosures and reclamation systems for blasting.
@@schmodedo seriously that was driving me nuts.
@Shitpost there are much cheaper ways to die
You guys should test carjacks. (Just posting this before the other guy spams it on here again)
Love it. I’ve seen those spam posts too
There's not much to test on car jacks unless they test hydraulic jacks vs an air Jack because in most cases the floor Jack you buy isn't gonna stop doing its job unless you abuse it.
"Today we are going test which method of carjacking people is the best!"
@@Yaboi-wu2ec love project farm I used to watch all of his videos. Very simple and down to earth comparisons and explanations, with no bias
@@contentlocked99 haha drunken ninja is a name I tried before this one
I have tried that Harbor Freight sandblaster on a couple of occasions. As you commented you need lots of air, a lot more than a home compressor or even small shop compressor can provide to maintain a reasonable duty cycle. Secondly, the sand has to be absolutely dry or it will cake in the siphon setup. The third problem is the abrasive action of the sand will wear through the supply tubing and nozzle tip in short order. I found that the cheap setup will fail within an hour or two of continuous use, depending on the abrasive you use. Don't expect it to be useful for any more than a one off project. I used one to clean up a shelving unit I got at a junkyard and it was completely spent. Tried to sandblast a 54 inch mover deck with another cheap unit my Dad had, and it wasn't able to finish the job before I went through the nozzle tips. At least he had a better compressor.
ceramic nozzles
Laser rust removal works great. I own one and have opened a small business doing so. It’s so satisfying to watch the rust just vanish in seconds. 👍🏻
I post my videos and pics, and get a great response from viewers. So cool.
I want to start a laser cleaning business, where did you get your machine from and what field are you working in?
"Rust" can also be good. That plumbing wrench is actually a good example of how rust it used.
The black color it had is not a paint, it was "blued". Fe2O3 is rust, and it is converted (chemically) to Fe3O4, which is iron oxide (magnetite).
Very hard, even brittle, and protects the surface from rust. The conversion process is possible at home.
That’s interesting, I wasn’t aware that was from an electrochemical reaction instead of just plain water. I would’ve thought that was from previous case hardening or tempering.
Muratic acid works soo good
I agree. This is a fun topic but I don't know if the car people are into it....
@@WickdPerfekT ask the gun people lol They have those a lot
@@mechanicalking muratic acid? What is that???
The $50k laser might seem out of range, unless you're a medium-to-larger entity involved in paint and fab/repair. If you're large enough that you're filling out DEQ reports every year, then you're spending thousands and thousands annually for disposing of used blast media and solvents. Far more than you paid _for_ the media and chemicals. You still need booth filters, which also require disposal and lab testing for heavy metals periodically, depending on how large of a haz waste generating site you are. But the laser starts paying for itself quickly in waste & man hours.
Edit: Just realized the boys are fellow Zooz riders. I always knew they were up to no good.
I don’t know much about this stuff but isn’t “media” just a term for the abrasive being sprayed from the sprayer? Like sand mixed with something like garnet kinda like with a water jet?
If so then why not just reuse media, I don’t see why some oxide particles would ruin the medias abrasive capabilities
I’m just assuming it’s effectively sandblasting
@@zyanidwarfare5634 I think it's because the size of the particles are important for the surface you want to prepare (it produces a matte surface, which is great for paint to stick to).
I know there's different grains sizes... The media is called grout where I'm from...and the process is called blasting.
@@zyanidwarfare5634 these parts looked like they are interesting to try out, Zyanid.
@@tylerdurden3722 👍👍
Also works for parts that you can’t put into a booth.
The cool thing about being able to record these videos is that you get the test out the tools, and then you can have them around the shop and if they are useful, then just a win-win.
Rusty tools soaked in vinegar also works and is environmentally safe. I will say that for the more abrasive rust you can use a solution of baking soda and vinegar and a wire brush and some good old fashioned elbow grease.
No. Baking soda and vinegar immediately reacts with each other (neutralising whatever there is less of), producing carbon dioxide in a bubble froth.
Incidentally, however, this actually makes dumping baking soda followed by acetic acid (vinegar) into your drains the best damn way of cleaning them that I've ever tried - the aggressive formation of micro-bubbles in the gunk loosens it as effectively as anything.
Tool party is easily my favorite donut series
UP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEED
Same
Either this or WheelHouse
Anything that doesn't involve James having outbursts is great.
hi/low
@@joshuagibson2520 🤡
If you want to use a media blaster, investing in a blasting cabinet is a good idea. It would cost more than the option used here, but I think it would still be a pretty cost effective way to remove rust and paint if it's something you need to do often.
Not just that, but breathing in glass or aluminum dust will tear apart your lungs. Even when you’re done blasting, smaller particles will float on the air after you stop. The cabinet means no cleaning and better for your lungs.
But youre limited in space. You can't fit a frame in a box
And an air drier
And a big air compressor
@@d4b4y4re4kid Blasting is usually done outside if you don't have a cabinet or the part is too big.
@@ianrobertson3419 yes im aware. I was replying to the top comments and replies. On how a cabinet is limited if the part your blasting is bigger than the cabinet.
I used CLR on a really rusted engine block when I was building a coffee table. I had to get a 25 gallon bucket but it worked so well. I was able to paint it after. But the electrolysis probably would have been better or sand blasting
yall are so funny and these videos are so informative. thank you :)
That part is probably a balancing shaft to counteract the vibrations from the engine. The engines from today run on less and less cilinders so that means the engine will vibrate more
How does fewer cylinders mean more vibrations?
@@MetalxXxMayhem because in a V12 for each piston there are 11 others to balance it, so vibrations from 1 only have a twelfth the effect. In an I3 there are only 2 other pistons for 1 piston. this isn't a technical explanation just how I understand the effect. anther way to picture it is you could more easily hear (so feel) 1 guitar in a song with 3 guitars than if the song had 12. how big a part of the ratio is the 1 piston
@@SafffOneee An inline 6 has fewer vibrations than a V12. It's not about amount of cylinders, it's how they're physically set up. An I6 is so much more balanced than a v8.
@@MetalxXxMayhem ah yes i do remember reading something like that when i used to read articles a lot
@@MetalxXxMayhem because 3 cilinders nowadays have to do mork work to have the same power output as a 4 cilinder . That's also why the more cilinder you have the smaller your flywheel is. If u need me to explain you that i will .
Not rust, but just for interest:
brake fluid is something that removes (enamel) paint from plastic parts and leaves the plastic parts untouched - I used it to get the paint off from my painted plastic models. And it tends to undo the glueing as well - so you can do a complete rebuild.
Oven cleaner can strip the chroming from plastic parts - takes a while (hours), but works great.
Clorox Bleach will eat the chrome too and it's faster. More like just 5-10 mins to strip a part, though it does depend a bit on how thick the chrome plating is. The one caveat - this reaction makes bubbles. That makes orientation important, just turn it over to get into new angles. Also, sometimes in really tiny spaces, the bubbles can be small enough that they stick in place and prevent the reaction from working. In this specific situation, the oven cleaner works better. Probably don't want to breath that gas in.
The best general purpose and safest paint stripper for modeling use that I know is an degreaser known as purple power. Let soak for a day or so then scrub with a toothbrush. Wear gloves. Looking at the MSDS, it's really just lye and water with a surfactant. Optionally, replacing the toothbrush with an ultrasonic cleaner makes for perfectly clean parts with basically no work. Still, even without an ultrasonic, in my experience it's far more effective than brake fluid. The only thing I know of that isn't safe to use this on is aluminum. Lye eats it.
Well, if only I knew that before paint stripping my roughcut
@@ColonelSandersLite interesting new ideas.
@@youcansave15ormoreoncarins75 See? One can even learn something on YT. Too bad it's too late for your purpose.
I often use to go to the professionals (for modelmaking e.g. the jeweler's supply store), they often have tools that are simply ingenious as they make a hard job real easy and exact, and often it is not even that expensive given at the amount of work-load reduction.
Or, e.g., if you need a REALLY sharp tip, take syringe needles. They are cheap (100 cost a few bucks), and go down to 0.3 mm, and THEN are sharpened to a point.
Compare them to a standard pin (in a magnifying glass), they look like the round tip of a torpedo in comparison.
Same with SHARP knives, scalpel blades are equally cheap, as throwaway items in professional practice, but sharp as hell, REALLY pointed resp. in many different shapes for different purposes.
Fine milling tools - ask your dentist, they throw them away by the hundreds, they still are great, and tinier than all you get in the hobby-store.
This is helpful for if I ever want to re-paint some of my old Warhammer Age of Sigmar models
Loved the video, so cool to see all the different methods
Your mystery parts are balance shafts to cancel engine vibration. They are timed opposite of the piston and rod assembly.
Should have used evaporust, probably one of the most go to things and it's skin safe and eco friendly. I've personally used it and works fantastic.
Yep! Evaporust is awesome. I use it all the time
Molasses does the same thing , fraction of the cost, takes a lot longer though
@@tatatazemefoo They actually cost pretty much the same, go figure. And Evaporust is reusable. Not sure about molasses. And, unlike molasses, no one has been killed by a great Evaporust flood.
@@fltchr4449 hopefully some people know what you meant by flood
Gotta buy feed grade from a farm supply store, then it gets cheap
“We’re all just fighting entropy, Jobe.”
“That’s right, we’re all oxidizing.”
This got deep.
yea man, wasn't expecting that... We're all just falling apart
I always like the wire wheel in the drill, works pretty good in my opinion
Love this channel watch your videos everyday without fail
11:02 that was funny and wrong at the same time haha
FYI you got the polarity wrong when you were explaining electrolysis but you got it right in your experiment (the negative is supposed to be on item that is being derusted and the positive goes to your sacrificial metal... Electrolysis is my favorite method of removing rust. Those lasers were amazing!
That and not saying anything about the fact that he has active constant air filters/ventilation in his shop. Only said he had left it unattended indoors for 24hrs releasing free radicals in the form of oxygen and hydrogen. VERY DANGEROUS to do without proper ventilation. Explosive. Electrolysis is best done outdoors by anyone without a proper chem-lab level workshop when it comes to air handling. I.E. any DIYer.
Always remember: Safety Third!
Until just now I thought free radicals were hippie/spiritual nonsense related to "cleansing" the body lmao
@@ArtemisKitty oh yeah, worked at a nickle factory, where everything is made with electolysis, but it is nickle chloride, so instead of oxygen or was it hydrogen, i dont remeber anymore, we had metric tonnes of pure chlorine gass getting released. with 8 huge vacuum compressors. dont remember the exact size. but meter in diameter. liquid rin gcompressor i think i translates into. they have been runnin gfor 50 years in almost pure chlorine. with only normal maintenance
Another great thing about electrolysis is that you can even use it on parts that are small and/or "delicate". It's actually used by archaeologists to get rust off of artifacts, so you know it's good.
I bought a spot blaster from Harbor Freight - I use 80 grit garnet (crushed rock) and do it on a workbench on my back lawn - no mess. Someday I'll get a blasting cabinet but until then the back lawn! Oh yeah, blasting works great for me in cleaning up rusty metal.
Another two techniques are possible. Both are used in antique restoration. 1) Steel wool or soft metal brush to remove any loose red iron oxide. Cleaning and complete degreasing and removal of all oils. Then boiling in water to convert the red iron oxide in contact with the steel to a durable black iron oxide, a passivation process similar to bluing that leaves a rust resistant surface. 2) All the rust can be removed by soaking in a citric acid and dish soap solution which will also remove bluing finishes. A video titled "Rusty Italian Rifle Restoration: 80 Years Hidden in a Wall" explains both these techniques and more.
a way I've found to work well for at least surface rust is spraying the part in wd-40 chain wax (only thing I had laying around) let it sit for a few mins, sand it with the wax still on, rinse it with water, spray it with regular wd-40 and let it sit for a minute (this dissolves the wax and sort of degreases the part), scrub with a stainless steel scourer (the metal sponge thing) then rinse with water again and dry off. Only takes a few mins and leaves the part clean of rust and somewhat "polished"
it’s crazy to think how far technology has came that rust can simply be removed by a laser
Could yall test rust stopping methods? See which works the best? Would be a long project but interesting video!
This has become one of my favorite Donut series. These two work together really well as they hosts.
"We're all fighting entropy"
"We're all oxidizing"
4:50
getting down to the bare metal isnt exactly great. the “black oxide” you are talking about is magnetite and hematite. Which is about the best corrosion barrier you could hope for.
creating a fresh metal surface only leads to increased corrosion and loss of material in the future.
I guess it depends on what you are planning to do with it. If you want to paint it, bare metal is the way to go.
@@philipphermann9454 thats true. tho i wouldnt recommend it for tools since the process is a bit tedious if you want to do it properly (etch, rust resitant bare metal primer, color coat, top coat). And since most tools see a lot of metal to metal contact you they tend to accumulate scratches that penetrate the color layer and then allow for local corrosion again.
Magnetite is extremely hard and durable (as seen here even power tools with abrasives dont easily penetrate that layer) and superior to most paint systems unless you go into powder or ceramic coating techniques.
So yeah. if you want to paint for aesthetic reasons bare metal is the way to go. but if all you want is a long loving tool id clean up red and orange corrosion (akageneite, lepidocrite, etc) and then just leave the magnetite/hematite layer.
if you live near the sea or in other areas with highly corrosive conditions you can always add an anti-corrodant on top of the magnetite layer, like special oils, waxes or polymer coats
Well said! I am also here to learn how to invest after listening to a lady on tv talk about the importance of investing and how she made 7 figure in 3 month, somehow the video taught me nothing and left me even more confused, I'm a newbie and I'm open to ideas on how to invest for retirement
@@rajeshupadhyay5683
I'll suggest you lookup Priscilla Dearmin-Turner, she's now our real investment prodigy since the crash and have help me recovered my loses
A news host spoke so highly of the💕 woman Priscilla Dearmin-Turner and her loss prevention strategies been trying to get to her ever since
this is teh coolestz stuff i have seen in years on youtube.
Great video 🙂 i'm sticking to vinegar and a brush washed off with baking soda mixed in water though hope you don't mind . you can use that with a power washer for underneath a car/truck and is in my good enough can weld now range for a rusty frame 🤔
Zach and Jeremiah are my favourite presenters on Donut, and Tool Party is always a fun watch. Keep it up!
6:05 that is a vibration balancer for those small engines aka: Honda, predator, etc. It is used for consumer satisfaction. All it does is it smooths out the vibration of the engine so it's not shaking everywhere and shaking the machine it's on. Hope it helps.
A Scotchbrite wheel on a bench grinder is phenominal as well. Like most examples you have to keep moving though. There are limitations such as inability to access certain angles and spaces. You can also use the wheels to buff out casting marks and do some surface reshaping with the right wheel abrasion.
9:15 when they say "laser time" and the camera shoots up, I feel like that's a direct reference to the old William Osman videos because he did exactly that when he used his laser cutter
Yeah fr
Rust comes from the north not the south. Everyone knows the rust mines are in the northern part of the country.
the north and also the east coast. we have a lot of rust in jersey😂
Yeah not much rust in the south except in the castal areas.
Rust comes from water theres plenty of humidity in the south east.
@@shadow105720 no it comes from the rust mines in the north.
@@themanwhosalttheworld 🤡
I once did a set of 4 into 1 shorty headers w/electrolysis. It took days but it worked well. Cheap too
Tip for sand blasting, use a closed box, and fave a funnel like setup allowing you to re-use the sand
that unidentified part at 6:08 belongs in the millenium falcon, was part of the atenna that lando breaks.
I used CLR to clean the inside of an old water logged gas tank for my motorcycle. Worked great
Hey Donut Dudes - your Bill Nye the Science guy parody was awesome! (It also says you pay attention to the cool science dudes!)
I always go with grinder and wire wheel attachment method. 12,000 rpm does wonders and you only have to occasionally buy a new wheel.
Did you guys do stress test on sockets yet?
Also, would like to see:
Tire pressure gauges
Portable tire compressors
Brake bleeder kit
Drill bits
Screw drivers stress test
Multi meter
Jack stand stress test
bro my portable ryobi 18v tire compressor is a life saver (i drift) ive gotten my tires to like 80 psi with them lol
Oh jack stands are good idea!!! That could be really cool to see if they actually hold up.. trouble lights could be cool too
Is Daytona worth the money?
I second jack stand super stress test. Drop like 5 tons on a 2 ton or something I wanna see that
@@GrizzlyWang And how may other tire compressors have you tried with comparison?
The “thing” @ 13:30 is a counter balancer/weight from a small engine ex. Honda GX390 among others. It’s gear timed with the crank & cam shafts to minimize vibration. I see that part numerous times a week!
No offense but the top comment on this video already answered it a month ago. It’s the very first comment lol.
@@CH-qy5sn I leave em don’t read them but lesson learned. I gave my two cents glad others gave theirs, however don’t care where my comment stand on the list, I just throw it out there if it’s useful to someone cool! (Sorry my original response was kinda meant for a different video) God Bless
I didn’t know about the ultrasonic jar trick. That’s a proper wizardry skill, and I’ll have to remember that one.
the best I've found is the tip for my power washer. it draws sand in with the water and pressure stays consistent and really takes the rust off .
You two together genuinely make me so happy, I wanna see more of these!
Fr!!!
I have one of the ultrasonic cleaners and it’s awesome. Great for carb cleans as well as rust removal and even just cleaning the dirt off of something
also very common (though in smaller scale) for cleaning glasses :D
We use one at work to clean turbine engine parts in conjunction with oakite rust stripper
@@Demonslayer20111 nice!
@@MCBritta cool lol
i tried transmission fluid on a rusted out engine and it did really well. piston/cylinders looked new.
I’m an aircraft structures & sheet metal mechanic & have dealt with plenty of corrosion during my career. Mostly aluminum but sometimes steel. I wish you guys would’ve used my favorite method for smaller areas of rust, which is a die grinder with a scotch brite wheel. Easy & fast! Similar to your drill & wire wheel but much easier & faster.
Everytime i come back to this channel, the content gets smoother, more refined, and just overal improvement. An absolute pleasure getting to come back to better and better videos every time
I just soak parts in distilled vinegar for a couple of days and then use grinders and drills with wire brushes and they'll wipe off all the rust that the vinegar loosened. So much cheaper than other chemicals and much easier and safer to dispose of.
Same here! Works amazing and its cheap!
only donut media can make purchasing jaws of life entertaining
I used to have a media blaster. You need to have a box that holds everything in it but it works great and cheap.
"We can't use the laser bc we aren't certified" 13:05 ok well either this guy lost his job or he don't need safety glasses and knows something we don't
Yeah definitely just more of a liability thing, that company didnt want these guys just playing with and risking machine damage since they dont know how those machines work. I cant imagine they would be very complicated but yeah since they werent bought thats my thought on it
🤔🤔🤔
He will soon permanently lose his vision.
When the "baby toy" 200W laser requires safety goggles but the 1500W laser doesn't XD
Love the show! Here's some tools I thought would be entertaining to test.
Jack stands
Ways to cut metal, sawsall, angle grinder, plasma, cnc, band saw. Or just torture test angle grinders/reciprocating saws
Ways to strip paint
I'd love to see you test respirators - I see you are using 3M ones. We also have them but it would be great to see what they actually capture vs a normal FFP2 or ventilation system. Etc.
I love you too guys you are hilarious keep up the good work I'll keep watching
Glass bead blaster used within a "glove box" is my favorite method. Got to have good glass beads and a lots of lots of compressed air. The glove box contains the media, systems that capture and separate the re-usable media from dust totally minimize media consumption. Unfortunately the whole entire system I'm referring probably cost about $6,000.00 (+ -) But it works so good I want one if I had a shop to put it in LOL the one I used at work in the shipyard was Superior to anything else I've ever used! Enjoyed your video thank you👍🙂
Six dollars? 👀
@@TS_Mind_Swept ? Lol my bad 6k $ ($6,000.00) not $6 (six)😁
@@polarblue7468 In some countries they use the commas and periods in reverse, so I wasn't sure 🤷🏿♀️
@@TS_Mind_Swept no worries thanks for pointing it out - 💖
I just got a used one the needs repair for like 800 but it’s also from the early 2000s and very used
that mystery thing might be a counter balance shaft on a small engine.
Closest I could find was for a Honda GX. You're definitely right that it's a balance shaft.
@@TherapyGel yeah, that's very close indeed
yeah i remember CLR, one of the few products from infocommercials that is actually pretty decent
FYI you can use the electrolysis method to plate steel with steel. This works great for restoration of motorcycle tanks without damaging the finish on preservation projects that have to remain in original condition.
How do you do that?
@@hellkell8693 you can find hundreds of videos online.
My favorites are muriatic acid, evapo rust, and electrolysis. They work really well. Muriatic acid is good for stuff on the car, you can soak towels in it and leave them to sit there, and agitate the metal brush every few minutes. You have to make sure you have good ventilation though. Evaoprust is good for bolts and small parts you can put in a container that you're not in a rush to clean. It's non toxic and it's reusable. Electrolysis is really good for large parts you put in a storage container. I did this on my rusty seat rail to get it to move and it worked really well.
I second this. Evapo Rust uses a catalytic reaction to remove rust, is super safe to use, even with bare hands. If you're willing to wait, it does a fantastic job. A few tool restoration folks on TH-cam use this and it's almost magic.
I'll third evaporust. It might take a day, but non toxic and won't stink up your shop or eat away the base steel like muriatic acid will.
evaporust is the golden path
If you do soak parts on the car with acid be sure to spray/soak with baking soda water when you're done to neutralize any residual acid.
I was super bummed to see CLR as their chemical choice, Evaporust is the GOAT!
3:50 glass beads are actually really soft and more for 'polishing' the material. Garnet sand would be way more aggressive then glass beads
Soda blasting might work.
Also they didn’t use a chamber to keep the mess in
@@whattheglasses9904 XD yeah so funny they donr have or know someone with a professional setup
@@fdsfggr yeah it is
What do you guys recommend for brick exterior? I know some media can score/damage the surface when removing old hard paint and plaster etc
Vinegar actually works really well on rust. It will also loosen rusted together hardware and plumbing parts.
The Bill Nye reference though, love this guy.
I am surprised they didn't test evapo-rust vs the CLR. The stuff has been shown to work really well. As well as just soaking it in vinegar.
There is a better channel for that type of stuff ;)
@@amatureskater15 very true. But they went as far as electrolysis, so I figured they would have tried a few more things. As most people won't go that far.
Have used vinegar on a number of rusted tools, works really well and is super cheap
Project farm did a great review of the liquid rust options. He does some awesome reviews on all kinds of stuff.
Evapo rust is great stuff, removes rust while being super safe to use. Turns everything i have tried back to bare steel. Its even exposed paint that was under the rust
What about a rust converter? Instead of removing the rust, it reacts with it to form black oxide, which then helps resist further corrosion.
Rust-Oleum sells a version called Rust Reformer.
I bought a spraycan of this stuff called Rust Morte. Works just as well. Transforms the rust back to metal.
Wait, the dude operating the freakin' rust-blasting laser gun is named "Sun" and everyone just glosses over this? That's the best name for a laser tech you can imagine! How do we just ignore this?
Although it isn't pronounced like the English word sun. It is more like "siuen" or "sven"