The part from the race track is a engine secondary balancer used to eliminate the secondary engine vibration, usualy its 1 or 2 of them spining at 2x engine rpm.
3 things: 1- the parts from the race track are balance shafts from an engine 2- Evap-o-Rust works much better than CLR, it isn't harmful to good paint and plastics, it is reusable, and it's environmentally friendly. I have used that stuff a bit and LOVE it! 3- the LASER system is thermal ablative LASER system. I have worked with this system in my previous role at work. It requires a specific focal length of the lens for the application it is being used on, hence why it didn't do as well with the paint as it truly can in this demonstration. With the correct lens on it, it is possible to take off individual layers of paint if you want. It REALLY should have an evacuation system on it for the fumes.
@@lonestarlonewolf that would be a question for the company. I would imagine that with the correct lens and frequency, etc that it could be done, but I am not an expert on their system's capabilities. We used it for a cleaning system.
I’ve used Evap-o-Rust and it worked well on rusty tools for me. It’s nice to be able to strain it through a fine or medium cone paint filter and do more tools. Didn’t discolor or effect rubbery handle grips or printing.
Boiling rusty tools is an option, too. That process is called bluing and it creates a black oxide finish that further protects from rust. Not sure how effective it would be, but I think it would have been something that would have been cool to cover in this video
You mean this bluing process? do you make steel blue? Heat the steel to temperatures from 400 to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, to produce oxidation colors. At 480 degrees F., the steel turns brown, at 520 degrees, it turns purple, at 575 degrees, it turns blue and at 800 degrees, it turns grey. These temperatures are commonly used in tempering tool steel.Apr
@@sethry1561 Generally you want to remove as much as possible before you convert, otherwise you risk leaving rust underneath where the conversion process will reach and it can continue to spread.
@@sethry1561 depends on the part. If it's something like that pipe wrench where you have sliding surfaces, it would be better to get down to bare metal and then hit it with grease so you have a smoother surface.
This honestly made me want to look into purchasing an ultrasonic parts cleaner. Being able to completely set and "forget" for 10 minutes for rust removal sounds amazing.
It's totally the way to go for a home mechanic. I'm a motorcycle guy and you can't beat it for carb cleaning and parts degreasing. Grab your favorite environmentally and aluminum safe cleaner and water, toss in your parts and hit the button. You may have to lightly WD-40 your parts if they are prone to rust when you pull them out of the water. It is a bit loud, has a high pitched screeching sound. Works great. I even throw my greasy gloves in there when I'm done.
I have one, and it's great for fine dirt removal. But I would never use it to remove rust. Electrolysis is the way to go, but unlike this video, it's imperative that the rusty part is the cathode (negative), and the scrap metal is the anode (positive).
A couple things from years of diy experience, low budget info from the days I was rebuilding 1950’s lathes and tons of other diy projects: So first, I don’t feel abrasion got the attention it could have, being one of my favorite methods actually. Wire brushes suck but works where you need them, wire cups in a drill, only really good for inside corners but it has its place. The big one that wasn’t included in the video, a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Big ole 8-12” wire wheel on a well balanced, strong bench grinder and very importantly, some good impact safety glasses will have you wishing you would’ve found it years ago. You can do large items to your hearts content. If you do smaller stuff like bolts or nuts, I suggest vice grips to hold em and careful of your surroundings because you can send em flyin! Second: chemical category.. so clr has its place, but there are a lot of other chemicals for removing rust, most commonly you’ll find acid based removers. A few things to keep in mind if anyone is ever using chemical method, or electrolysis: first, these methods usually tend to have effects on the metal itself. You can damage the metal under the rust beyond what the rust has effected alone, they can slowly eat away the metal depending what you use, second. Be very aware that any items left exposed to the air will create horrible erosion where the water line sits. It’s because at the water/chemical line, you get the effects of both rust being removed, but also being exposed to the air it’ll flash rust and then rust remover will remove that and it creates a line where it eats into the metal and leaves a gnarly line of metal missing. One product that I highly recommend everyone at least knows about (not sponsored) is evaporust, because it’s different than most rust removing chemicals, it uses chelation to remove rust, rather than acid. Which targets ONLY the rust, which is very important if you’re trying to remove only rust and keep all parent metals in tact. This was especially important to me when restoring metal parts to my lathe in order to keep very tight tolerances and not cause more harm than good. You can look up the chelation process if you want because I feel my comment is already too long but just wanted to drop some knowledge from years of personal experience!
I'm stoked to find your comment, and was just about to write my own about evaporust. I've been plugging it since I first used it to restore a frozen bike chain!
Tool party has RAPIDLY become my favorite shows Donut makes, Zach and Jeremiah have so much chemistry on camera it’s insane, Zach for sure my favorite donut member, but Jeremiah is just too funny
Glad you discussed responsible disposal of chemical waste. Also, glad that you did wear respirators and safety glasses (I noticed that the pre-filter was missing on respirators, and I had some concerns regarding sandblasting booth safety and chemical exposure). Can't stress it enough, breathing is important and protecting your vision is also extremely important...traumatic eye injuries...horrible. Love the video; very informative. Thanks for answering many questions I had about removing rust. Stay safe.
I’ve always just kept a couple gallons of used oil in a bucket. Drop the rusty tool in grab it out a couple weeks to a month later depending on rust level and wipe it off. Works great!
I’ve lived in Kansas and Colorado my whole life. Rust is an everyday. Not only does this get the rust off but it will treat the tools so they don’t rust so fast again.
What I love about electrolysis is the fact it is "self-regulating" and it converts the existing metal to a stable oxide state. Also, it gets into spaces you can not with mechanical rust methods. My advice is to do it outside strictly because of the hydrogen released, better safe than sorry!
A great use for electrolysis is cleaning the inside of Rusty motorcycle tanks. Ones where owners have left a little bit of gas in them for years and it just rusted the hell out of the inside. Works great I've had wonderful using electrolysis method
FYI sand blasting: The dust it creates is *EXTREMELY* dangerous... if you are going to go this rout you will most DEFINITELY want a proper setup - can can cause *PERMANENT health problems* (depending on your equipment, you can use the sand multiple times, but it does get to a point that it can no longer be used - mostly around 3 to 6 times)
It depends on which material you're using in your blaster. Silica sand in most blasters is okay if you have proper dust control, but can be dangerous for your health if not. The glass beads (using an acrylic compound) are much safer, but also I would advise good dust control and a nice way to wash them in an eco-friendly way. Walnut or bi-carb is also on the safer side, but there's two schools of thought on walnut, as a lot of wood working teachers exposed to hardwood dusts end up with lung diseases.. but that could also be how much they stress smoke. haha
when you're sandblasting stuff it's usually a good idea to use enclosed camera instead of doing it in the open. you can recycle sand multiple times too
If you want to use a media blaster, investing in a blasting cabinet is a good idea. It would cost more than the option used here, but I think it would still be a pretty cost effective way to remove rust and paint if it's something you need to do often.
Not just that, but breathing in glass or aluminum dust will tear apart your lungs. Even when you’re done blasting, smaller particles will float on the air after you stop. The cabinet means no cleaning and better for your lungs.
@@ianrobertson3419 yes im aware. I was replying to the top comments and replies. On how a cabinet is limited if the part your blasting is bigger than the cabinet.
@@Carrovroom 🤣🤣😂🤣🤣 TY 😅 You got me RoLLing here 😂 LOLz I have Never heard that expression before ❗️👌❗️🤣❗️ I'm holding off buying my 1st EV , so ATM I don't have a bank note. I'm🙏 praying 🙏 once I do start paying on that EV, my pockets don't end up by yours 😳
because from what I know is that rust lasers aren't supposed to affect the paint their suppose to only affect the rust and not damage any of the metal underneath no matter how much you do
Not rust, but just for interest: brake fluid is something that removes (enamel) paint from plastic parts and leaves the plastic parts untouched - I used it to get the paint off from my painted plastic models. And it tends to undo the glueing as well - so you can do a complete rebuild. Oven cleaner can strip the chroming from plastic parts - takes a while (hours), but works great.
Clorox Bleach will eat the chrome too and it's faster. More like just 5-10 mins to strip a part, though it does depend a bit on how thick the chrome plating is. The one caveat - this reaction makes bubbles. That makes orientation important, just turn it over to get into new angles. Also, sometimes in really tiny spaces, the bubbles can be small enough that they stick in place and prevent the reaction from working. In this specific situation, the oven cleaner works better. Probably don't want to breath that gas in. The best general purpose and safest paint stripper for modeling use that I know is an degreaser known as purple power. Let soak for a day or so then scrub with a toothbrush. Wear gloves. Looking at the MSDS, it's really just lye and water with a surfactant. Optionally, replacing the toothbrush with an ultrasonic cleaner makes for perfectly clean parts with basically no work. Still, even without an ultrasonic, in my experience it's far more effective than brake fluid. The only thing I know of that isn't safe to use this on is aluminum. Lye eats it.
@@youcansave15ormoreoncarins75 See? One can even learn something on YT. Too bad it's too late for your purpose. I often use to go to the professionals (for modelmaking e.g. the jeweler's supply store), they often have tools that are simply ingenious as they make a hard job real easy and exact, and often it is not even that expensive given at the amount of work-load reduction. Or, e.g., if you need a REALLY sharp tip, take syringe needles. They are cheap (100 cost a few bucks), and go down to 0.3 mm, and THEN are sharpened to a point. Compare them to a standard pin (in a magnifying glass), they look like the round tip of a torpedo in comparison. Same with SHARP knives, scalpel blades are equally cheap, as throwaway items in professional practice, but sharp as hell, REALLY pointed resp. in many different shapes for different purposes. Fine milling tools - ask your dentist, they throw them away by the hundreds, they still are great, and tinier than all you get in the hobby-store.
"Rust" can also be good. That plumbing wrench is actually a good example of how rust it used. The black color it had is not a paint, it was "blued". Fe2O3 is rust, and it is converted (chemically) to Fe3O4, which is iron oxide (magnetite). Very hard, even brittle, and protects the surface from rust. The conversion process is possible at home.
That’s interesting, I wasn’t aware that was from an electrochemical reaction instead of just plain water. I would’ve thought that was from previous case hardening or tempering.
In my experience, lots of dudes that have been doing construction for a while also tend to not wear them... For example, my father. Regularly cuts glass with a high speed blade, rarely wear safety glasses...
@@Crypticdragon1 yeah, but this is different. A laser like this just needs to hit the smallest piece of reflective material, and you are blind. Plus a powerful enough one can blind you on the reflection off almost anything. The actual laser guys like styropyro know to always wear your laser safety glasses, or you will be walking around with different glasses and a cane
@@marcusborderlands6177 how is that any different. One shard of glass or the wheel shattering on a cut off wheel or any number of things you are blind too. Or dead.
When you level up in laser tech training your eyes get a natural immunity to lasers. In face, platinum level laser techs can shoot lasers from their eyes.
There's not much to test on car jacks unless they test hydraulic jacks vs an air Jack because in most cases the floor Jack you buy isn't gonna stop doing its job unless you abuse it.
On the chemicals side, if you want a solution that costs near zero look into vinegar. Especially in your Sonic setup, the combination of the ultrasonic and the vinegar would pretty much remove any surface buildup as well as transforming the rest into that gorgeous black finish you saw a couple times which is actually rust preventative.
@@Lwnmwrboy5 while the tannins in Coca-Cola have some benefit, vinegar is a thing all of its own. Using something like cola in a chemical bath tends to leave a residue.
@@leechowning2712 The phosphoric acid in coca-cola is what helps similar to acetic acid (vinegar). Phosphoric acid has some benefits over acetic acid when it comes to iron oxides.
The $50k laser might seem out of range, unless you're a medium-to-larger entity involved in paint and fab/repair. If you're large enough that you're filling out DEQ reports every year, then you're spending thousands and thousands annually for disposing of used blast media and solvents. Far more than you paid _for_ the media and chemicals. You still need booth filters, which also require disposal and lab testing for heavy metals periodically, depending on how large of a haz waste generating site you are. But the laser starts paying for itself quickly in waste & man hours. Edit: Just realized the boys are fellow Zooz riders. I always knew they were up to no good.
I don’t know much about this stuff but isn’t “media” just a term for the abrasive being sprayed from the sprayer? Like sand mixed with something like garnet kinda like with a water jet? If so then why not just reuse media, I don’t see why some oxide particles would ruin the medias abrasive capabilities I’m just assuming it’s effectively sandblasting
@@zyanidwarfare5634 I think it's because the size of the particles are important for the surface you want to prepare (it produces a matte surface, which is great for paint to stick to). I know there's different grains sizes... The media is called grout where I'm from...and the process is called blasting.
@@tatatazemefoo They actually cost pretty much the same, go figure. And Evaporust is reusable. Not sure about molasses. And, unlike molasses, no one has been killed by a great Evaporust flood.
FYI you got the polarity wrong when you were explaining electrolysis but you got it right in your experiment (the negative is supposed to be on item that is being derusted and the positive goes to your sacrificial metal... Electrolysis is my favorite method of removing rust. Those lasers were amazing!
That and not saying anything about the fact that he has active constant air filters/ventilation in his shop. Only said he had left it unattended indoors for 24hrs releasing free radicals in the form of oxygen and hydrogen. VERY DANGEROUS to do without proper ventilation. Explosive. Electrolysis is best done outdoors by anyone without a proper chem-lab level workshop when it comes to air handling. I.E. any DIYer. Always remember: Safety Third!
@@ArtemisKitty oh yeah, worked at a nickle factory, where everything is made with electolysis, but it is nickle chloride, so instead of oxygen or was it hydrogen, i dont remeber anymore, we had metric tonnes of pure chlorine gass getting released. with 8 huge vacuum compressors. dont remember the exact size. but meter in diameter. liquid rin gcompressor i think i translates into. they have been runnin gfor 50 years in almost pure chlorine. with only normal maintenance
Laser rust removal works great. I own one and have opened a small business doing so. It’s so satisfying to watch the rust just vanish in seconds. 👍🏻 I post my videos and pics, and get a great response from viewers. So cool.
That part is probably a balancing shaft to counteract the vibrations from the engine. The engines from today run on less and less cilinders so that means the engine will vibrate more
@@MetalxXxMayhem because in a V12 for each piston there are 11 others to balance it, so vibrations from 1 only have a twelfth the effect. In an I3 there are only 2 other pistons for 1 piston. this isn't a technical explanation just how I understand the effect. anther way to picture it is you could more easily hear (so feel) 1 guitar in a song with 3 guitars than if the song had 12. how big a part of the ratio is the 1 piston
@@SafffOneee An inline 6 has fewer vibrations than a V12. It's not about amount of cylinders, it's how they're physically set up. An I6 is so much more balanced than a v8.
@@MetalxXxMayhem because 3 cilinders nowadays have to do mork work to have the same power output as a 4 cilinder . That's also why the more cilinder you have the smaller your flywheel is. If u need me to explain you that i will .
a way I've found to work well for at least surface rust is spraying the part in wd-40 chain wax (only thing I had laying around) let it sit for a few mins, sand it with the wax still on, rinse it with water, spray it with regular wd-40 and let it sit for a minute (this dissolves the wax and sort of degreases the part), scrub with a stainless steel scourer (the metal sponge thing) then rinse with water again and dry off. Only takes a few mins and leaves the part clean of rust and somewhat "polished"
6:05 that is a vibration balancer for those small engines aka: Honda, predator, etc. It is used for consumer satisfaction. All it does is it smooths out the vibration of the engine so it's not shaking everywhere and shaking the machine it's on. Hope it helps.
My wife got an ultrasonic cleaner for her furniture refurbishing and they are awesome for removing rust on really old pieces. We never thought of putting a jar of CLR in it though. That's a great suggestion.
4:50 getting down to the bare metal isnt exactly great. the “black oxide” you are talking about is magnetite and hematite. Which is about the best corrosion barrier you could hope for. creating a fresh metal surface only leads to increased corrosion and loss of material in the future.
@@philipphermann9454 thats true. tho i wouldnt recommend it for tools since the process is a bit tedious if you want to do it properly (etch, rust resitant bare metal primer, color coat, top coat). And since most tools see a lot of metal to metal contact you they tend to accumulate scratches that penetrate the color layer and then allow for local corrosion again. Magnetite is extremely hard and durable (as seen here even power tools with abrasives dont easily penetrate that layer) and superior to most paint systems unless you go into powder or ceramic coating techniques. So yeah. if you want to paint for aesthetic reasons bare metal is the way to go. but if all you want is a long loving tool id clean up red and orange corrosion (akageneite, lepidocrite, etc) and then just leave the magnetite/hematite layer. if you live near the sea or in other areas with highly corrosive conditions you can always add an anti-corrodant on top of the magnetite layer, like special oils, waxes or polymer coats
Well said! I am also here to learn how to invest after listening to a lady on tv talk about the importance of investing and how she made 7 figure in 3 month, somehow the video taught me nothing and left me even more confused, I'm a newbie and I'm open to ideas on how to invest for retirement
@@rajeshupadhyay5683 I'll suggest you lookup Priscilla Dearmin-Turner, she's now our real investment prodigy since the crash and have help me recovered my loses
The “thing” @ 13:30 is a counter balancer/weight from a small engine ex. Honda GX390 among others. It’s gear timed with the crank & cam shafts to minimize vibration. I see that part numerous times a week!
@@CH-qy5sn I leave em don’t read them but lesson learned. I gave my two cents glad others gave theirs, however don’t care where my comment stand on the list, I just throw it out there if it’s useful to someone cool! (Sorry my original response was kinda meant for a different video) God Bless
Rusty tools soaked in vinegar also works and is environmentally safe. I will say that for the more abrasive rust you can use a solution of baking soda and vinegar and a wire brush and some good old fashioned elbow grease.
No. Baking soda and vinegar immediately reacts with each other (neutralising whatever there is less of), producing carbon dioxide in a bubble froth. Incidentally, however, this actually makes dumping baking soda followed by acetic acid (vinegar) into your drains the best damn way of cleaning them that I've ever tried - the aggressive formation of micro-bubbles in the gunk loosens it as effectively as anything.
@@serhiisinilovif you wan to get into the rust removal business you can buy a smaller version of that lase for around 5 to 10 k depending on what size you need. But I'd recommend a 1.5k watt or larger. I'm going into the business when I get my own garage.
Another two techniques are possible. Both are used in antique restoration. 1) Steel wool or soft metal brush to remove any loose red iron oxide. Cleaning and complete degreasing and removal of all oils. Then boiling in water to convert the red iron oxide in contact with the steel to a durable black iron oxide, a passivation process similar to bluing that leaves a rust resistant surface. 2) All the rust can be removed by soaking in a citric acid and dish soap solution which will also remove bluing finishes. A video titled "Rusty Italian Rifle Restoration: 80 Years Hidden in a Wall" explains both these techniques and more.
Glass bead blaster used within a "glove box" is my favorite method. Got to have good glass beads and a lots of lots of compressed air. The glove box contains the media, systems that capture and separate the re-usable media from dust totally minimize media consumption. Unfortunately the whole entire system I'm referring probably cost about $6,000.00 (+ -) But it works so good I want one if I had a shop to put it in LOL the one I used at work in the shipyard was Superior to anything else I've ever used! Enjoyed your video thank you👍🙂
I have tried that Harbor Freight sandblaster on a couple of occasions. As you commented you need lots of air, a lot more than a home compressor or even small shop compressor can provide to maintain a reasonable duty cycle. Secondly, the sand has to be absolutely dry or it will cake in the siphon setup. The third problem is the abrasive action of the sand will wear through the supply tubing and nozzle tip in short order. I found that the cheap setup will fail within an hour or two of continuous use, depending on the abrasive you use. Don't expect it to be useful for any more than a one off project. I used one to clean up a shelving unit I got at a junkyard and it was completely spent. Tried to sandblast a 54 inch mover deck with another cheap unit my Dad had, and it wasn't able to finish the job before I went through the nozzle tips. At least he had a better compressor.
I think it's because the laser is infrared and from the angle he's standing there won't be any direct reflection of laser light. Only the brightness of the burning rust
@@SafetyLucas Perhaps that's true, but even welding arcs can cause permanent damage, and it does appear that the laser is zapping the rust with similar intensity. Well, not my eyes anyway.
Did you guys do stress test on sockets yet? Also, would like to see: Tire pressure gauges Portable tire compressors Brake bleeder kit Drill bits Screw drivers stress test Multi meter Jack stand stress test
About the blasting, that glass sand is not the most abrasive sand and you used a toy setup. In industrial environment with a proper compressor it won't be any rust left in seconds and will start eating into the metal. And like other people commented, usually the blasting is done inside a closed room to recover the so called "sand" (but can be a lot of things instead of glass powder, including commonly used steel grit or balls). Also a protection gear includes a strong mask and suit to protect the user from bouncing sand, which from high speeds compressors can shred your skin in seconds including clothes, and has an air hose at the back connected to a source of breathable air. Else the surrounding air can be full of powder and if you blast something big and rusty like a big water tank it can be a a major rust cloud that you barely see through 1 meter in front of you. Definitely not good for breathing :) For those big items the work is done with very high presure and a hose resembling firefighters hose size and handling under pressure, rather than that small gun and home air compressor. Also the noise is very loud even through the noise cancelling ear plugs worn inside the helmet.
i had work wit a big one where you only needed to drop what you want in and close the chamber the work will be done itself and yeah it remove everything it used Silicon Carbide if after the second time they where still rust we will just scrap the piece since we had removed to much materials
The cool thing about being able to record these videos is that you get the test out the tools, and then you can have them around the shop and if they are useful, then just a win-win.
My favorites are muriatic acid, evapo rust, and electrolysis. They work really well. Muriatic acid is good for stuff on the car, you can soak towels in it and leave them to sit there, and agitate the metal brush every few minutes. You have to make sure you have good ventilation though. Evaoprust is good for bolts and small parts you can put in a container that you're not in a rush to clean. It's non toxic and it's reusable. Electrolysis is really good for large parts you put in a storage container. I did this on my rusty seat rail to get it to move and it worked really well.
I second this. Evapo Rust uses a catalytic reaction to remove rust, is super safe to use, even with bare hands. If you're willing to wait, it does a fantastic job. A few tool restoration folks on TH-cam use this and it's almost magic.
@@amatureskater15 very true. But they went as far as electrolysis, so I figured they would have tried a few more things. As most people won't go that far.
I’m an aircraft structures & sheet metal mechanic & have dealt with plenty of corrosion during my career. Mostly aluminum but sometimes steel. I wish you guys would’ve used my favorite method for smaller areas of rust, which is a die grinder with a scotch brite wheel. Easy & fast! Similar to your drill & wire wheel but much easier & faster.
Evapo rust is great stuff, removes rust while being super safe to use. Turns everything i have tried back to bare steel. Its even exposed paint that was under the rust
I've never seen a single cylinder engine with a balance shaft. They may exist but I have never seen it. They are usually found in inline 3, 4 and 5 cylinder engines as well as 90 degree V6s. Also oddballs like V4s, straight twins, etc.
I just soak parts in distilled vinegar for a couple of days and then use grinders and drills with wire brushes and they'll wipe off all the rust that the vinegar loosened. So much cheaper than other chemicals and much easier and safer to dispose of.
One thing you can also try is the vinegar method. I use it in a two step process to restore tool files, and it works out great. I'm hoping to perfect it a little further, still requiring a bit of research to make it work even better.
Coming from and industrial coatings background as well as automotive refinishing I can tell you a media blaster is an amazing tool to have on hand! I've done it on a much much bigger scale obviously, but relatively inexpensive to get into and works great for removing rust and pretty much anything else you want gone. Also if you are repainting parts it gives a great profile in the substrate for paint to stick to as compared to a wire wheel or chemicals. You guys also should have tried a wheel abrader. That laser is cool AF tho!!!
Hint: If you sand-blast cast iron it needs to be primed immediately (mild metal too), don't wait until the next day. Cast iron will have surface rust on it the next morning, depending on the humidity of where you are.
9:15 when they say "laser time" and the camera shoots up, I feel like that's a direct reference to the old William Osman videos because he did exactly that when he used his laser cutter
Everytime i come back to this channel, the content gets smoother, more refined, and just overal improvement. An absolute pleasure getting to come back to better and better videos every time
"We can't use the laser bc we aren't certified" 13:05 ok well either this guy lost his job or he don't need safety glasses and knows something we don't
Yeah definitely just more of a liability thing, that company didnt want these guys just playing with and risking machine damage since they dont know how those machines work. I cant imagine they would be very complicated but yeah since they werent bought thats my thought on it
Love the show! Here's some tools I thought would be entertaining to test. Jack stands Ways to cut metal, sawsall, angle grinder, plasma, cnc, band saw. Or just torture test angle grinders/reciprocating saws Ways to strip paint
I clean guns for family/friends and I personally use naval jelly to remove rust. It works phenomenally and in my experience can actually be reused if stored properly afterwards. Just leave it in for about 10 minutes and it'll strip it down to the bare metal. It's a cheap and effective method for rust removal.
Evaporust works best and see it used in practically every maker space and workshop so surpised it wasn't used here. Works 1000x better than CLR, cheap, reusable, and pretty non-toxic. WAY better than CLR. So not having Evaporust in this video is like having a video about how to properly drive a nail and not include or mention any hammers.
Wait, the dude operating the freakin' rust-blasting laser gun is named "Sun" and everyone just glosses over this? That's the best name for a laser tech you can imagine! How do we just ignore this?
Man, I love rust removal -- knife and tool restoration is a hobby of mine, and there isn't much as satisfying as watching rust get removed. Just a word though, regarding electrolysis: if stainless steel or anything else containing chromium is used as the anode (aka "sacrificial element"), the chromium will oxidize, becoming hexavalent chromium. This is........... undesirable.
I used CLR on a really rusted engine block when I was building a coffee table. I had to get a 25 gallon bucket but it worked so well. I was able to paint it after. But the electrolysis probably would have been better or sand blasting
If yall are going budget (good for small items) then you can leave whatever ur unrusting submerged in vinegar for 24 hrs. Rust will be removed and then make sure u dip unrusted tool in a mix of water and baking soda for a while before taking out and drying. If you dont use the baking soda/ water mixture itll rust again and probably faster than before.
on your respiratory masks make sure you put the padding and plastic cover that comes with the mask on the vents so you will actually keep all of the rust vapors out. without that padding it will not be able to keep those vapors out
You guys need to run your spot blaster in a closed off box, or have a vacuum near the nozzle. The dust hangs in the air and depending on what your using it could be extremely damaging to your lungs, not sure if you took your mask off right after blasting, but if you did, you definitely still breathed in some dust.
I think it would be interesting to do a "mechanic's toolset" comparison. Obviously stuff like quality, but also how many of the tools are actually useful? How many tools are missing? Are any of the options actually one-stop shopping?
The coolest thing about the laser is you can clean stone to and some other metals, so if you have like old marbel wall/floor/counter and so one that looks SHITTY bad, you can get it back to like it is new. That tool is VERY cool and when prices go down alittle I might just invest =)
Anther option that is an old school gunsmith way is to use boiling hot water, as opposed to boiling cold water... :) By letting the rusted item sit in the boiling water for a bit of time it converts the ferric oxide, red rust to ferro-ferric oxide, black rust, that protects the metal. Then hit it with a carding wheel. I highly suggest Mark Novak's YT channel where he talks about this in a few different episodes.
The issue with laser methods is that if you forget to wear the goggles, just having that laser in your peripheral vision would instantly blind you. It's not something to be messed with. Especially that 1500W laser. Even if you looked in the near vicinity of that laser, it would likely cause permanent eye damage, if not blindness.
It definitely shouldn't instantly blind you. I work with 6-12kW lasers for cutting sheet metal and plate. There's a "small" chance that the laser can bounce off certain metals and damage/blind you. But for the most part, you should be okay. The laser actually has to hit your eyes. Unless these lasers are waaaaaayyyy different than cutting lasers.
@@erikbouchard8911Yeah, different lasers have different risks. I'm not sure about the fiber laser used in these rust removal applications, but I'm pretty sure it's not recommended to stare at it. Powerful visible light lasers will instantly blind you if you so much as look at the spot on the wall, or see it reflected off of something. Visible light lasers are terrifying.
FYI you can use the electrolysis method to plate steel with steel. This works great for restoration of motorcycle tanks without damaging the finish on preservation projects that have to remain in original condition.
The part from the race track is a engine secondary balancer used to eliminate the secondary engine vibration, usualy its 1 or 2 of them spining at 2x engine rpm.
Totally agree!
What type of engine? Must be something small?
@@fopeezy3097 i think motocycles engine ... Kawasaki z1000 have a similar balancer shaft
Definitely a balance shaft from some small engine
I was thinking that it looked like a camshaft from a small engine...
3 things:
1- the parts from the race track are balance shafts from an engine
2- Evap-o-Rust works much better than CLR, it isn't harmful to good paint and plastics, it is reusable, and it's environmentally friendly. I have used that stuff a bit and LOVE it!
3- the LASER system is thermal ablative LASER system. I have worked with this system in my previous role at work. It requires a specific focal length of the lens for the application it is being used on, hence why it didn't do as well with the paint as it truly can in this demonstration. With the correct lens on it, it is possible to take off individual layers of paint if you want. It REALLY should have an evacuation system on it for the fumes.
Question in regards of that laser machine. It removes rust, but what about other oxidation found in other metals such as copper? That green oxidation
@@lonestarlonewolf that would be a question for the company. I would imagine that with the correct lens and frequency, etc that it could be done, but I am not an expert on their system's capabilities. We used it for a cleaning system.
@@lonestarlonewolf Tabasco will do the trick. I'm not even joking.
I’ve used Evap-o-Rust and it worked well on rusty tools for me. It’s nice to be able to strain it through a fine or medium cone paint filter and do more tools. Didn’t discolor or effect rubbery handle grips or printing.
Those fumes are no joke, you are breathing in vaporized metal. That’s extremely no bueno
Boiling rusty tools is an option, too. That process is called bluing and it creates a black oxide finish that further protects from rust. Not sure how effective it would be, but I think it would have been something that would have been cool to cover in this video
You mean this bluing process? do you make steel blue?
Heat the steel to temperatures from 400 to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, to produce oxidation colors. At 480 degrees F., the steel turns brown, at 520 degrees, it turns purple, at 575 degrees, it turns blue and at 800 degrees, it turns grey. These temperatures are commonly used in tempering tool steel.Apr
The video is about rust removal, not rust conversion or prevention.
@@F0XD1E You may be right, but conversion is better than removal.
@@sethry1561 Generally you want to remove as much as possible before you convert, otherwise you risk leaving rust underneath where the conversion process will reach and it can continue to spread.
@@sethry1561 depends on the part. If it's something like that pipe wrench where you have sliding surfaces, it would be better to get down to bare metal and then hit it with grease so you have a smoother surface.
This honestly made me want to look into purchasing an ultrasonic parts cleaner. Being able to completely set and "forget" for 10 minutes for rust removal sounds amazing.
Right?!
It's totally the way to go for a home mechanic. I'm a motorcycle guy and you can't beat it for carb cleaning and parts degreasing. Grab your favorite environmentally and aluminum safe cleaner and water, toss in your parts and hit the button. You may have to lightly WD-40 your parts if they are prone to rust when you pull them out of the water. It is a bit loud, has a high pitched screeching sound. Works great. I even throw my greasy gloves in there when I'm done.
I have one, and it's great for fine dirt removal. But I would never use it to remove rust. Electrolysis is the way to go, but unlike this video, it's imperative that the rusty part is the cathode (negative), and the scrap metal is the anode (positive).
Ultrasonic, citric acid, and wire brush are peak. Sandblasting or the likes are cool if you have the equipment.
@@FourRulesRacing it's almost like it has an ultrasonic sound :P
A couple things from years of diy experience, low budget info from the days I was rebuilding 1950’s lathes and tons of other diy projects:
So first, I don’t feel abrasion got the attention it could have, being one of my favorite methods actually. Wire brushes suck but works where you need them, wire cups in a drill, only really good for inside corners but it has its place. The big one that wasn’t included in the video, a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Big ole 8-12” wire wheel on a well balanced, strong bench grinder and very importantly, some good impact safety glasses will have you wishing you would’ve found it years ago. You can do large items to your hearts content. If you do smaller stuff like bolts or nuts, I suggest vice grips to hold em and careful of your surroundings because you can send em flyin!
Second: chemical category.. so clr has its place, but there are a lot of other chemicals for removing rust, most commonly you’ll find acid based removers. A few things to keep in mind if anyone is ever using chemical method, or electrolysis: first, these methods usually tend to have effects on the metal itself. You can damage the metal under the rust beyond what the rust has effected alone, they can slowly eat away the metal depending what you use, second. Be very aware that any items left exposed to the air will create horrible erosion where the water line sits. It’s because at the water/chemical line, you get the effects of both rust being removed, but also being exposed to the air it’ll flash rust and then rust remover will remove that and it creates a line where it eats into the metal and leaves a gnarly line of metal missing.
One product that I highly recommend everyone at least knows about (not sponsored) is evaporust, because it’s different than most rust removing chemicals, it uses chelation to remove rust, rather than acid. Which targets ONLY the rust, which is very important if you’re trying to remove only rust and keep all parent metals in tact. This was especially important to me when restoring metal parts to my lathe in order to keep very tight tolerances and not cause more harm than good. You can look up the chelation process if you want because I feel my comment is already too long but just wanted to drop some knowledge from years of personal experience!
Excellent info. I'll definitely look into chelation and evaporust. That makes perfect sense with the lathe example.
I'm stoked to find your comment, and was just about to write my own about evaporust. I've been plugging it since I first used it to restore a frozen bike chain!
You're doing gods work for us fellow rust fighters. God bless
Legend
Donut should pin this comment
Tool party has RAPIDLY become my favorite shows Donut makes, Zach and Jeremiah have so much chemistry on camera it’s insane, Zach for sure my favorite donut member, but Jeremiah is just too funny
@LeoS Freaking Donut Media, dingus
Maybe they'll make out.
@@BabyJesus66 make out for what?
@LeoS cool?
They have lots of chemistry in the video too
Nobody ever seems to use distilled white vinegar. I use that stuff all the time and it works so well! Super cheap, safe, and environmentally friendly.
I was looking for this comment, I was expecting a lot more people to say this
Works like a charm! 1-2 days submerged and good as new!
Yep, white vinegar is what I do too. And it's a fraction of the cost of other rust removers.
I'm very surprised that nobody use this trick. White vinegar only cost like $1 in my country.
Heck. I use it to clean coffee makers and all sorts of other junk
Glad you discussed responsible disposal of chemical waste. Also, glad that you did wear respirators and safety glasses (I noticed that the pre-filter was missing on respirators, and I had some concerns regarding sandblasting booth safety and chemical exposure). Can't stress it enough, breathing is important and protecting your vision is also extremely important...traumatic eye injuries...horrible. Love the video; very informative. Thanks for answering many questions I had about removing rust. Stay safe.
I’ve always just kept a couple gallons of used oil in a bucket. Drop the rusty tool in grab it out a couple weeks to a month later depending on rust level and wipe it off. Works great!
Really?
Hell yeah, old farmer trick. I remember growing up damn near every farm had the oil bucket, usually with something rusty or stuck soaking in it. 😁
I’ve lived in Kansas and Colorado my whole life. Rust is an everyday. Not only does this get the rust off but it will treat the tools so they don’t rust so fast again.
Definitely the cheapest way to get it done, but that is assuming that you dont need that particular tool or part for a month.
@@xXEGPXx that's why you pick up 8 of everything at auctions 🤣
What I love about electrolysis is the fact it is "self-regulating" and it converts the existing metal to a stable oxide state. Also, it gets into spaces you can not with mechanical rust methods. My advice is to do it outside strictly because of the hydrogen released, better safe than sorry!
@@LukiRudaka the latex furry in tha donut media comment section
A great use for electrolysis is cleaning the inside of Rusty motorcycle tanks. Ones where owners have left a little bit of gas in them for years and it just rusted the hell out of the inside. Works great I've had wonderful using electrolysis method
@@dennisspencer546 my dad has done that on a few fuel tanks for his old cars and the results are spectacular.
Even better, burn the hydrogen so it cant accumulate :))
And What I hate about that set up is how fricking easy it would be to electrocute yourself...
FYI sand blasting:
The dust it creates is *EXTREMELY* dangerous... if you are going to go this rout you will most DEFINITELY want a proper setup - can can cause *PERMANENT health problems*
(depending on your equipment, you can use the sand multiple times, but it does get to a point that it can no longer be used - mostly around 3 to 6 times)
use Bi-Carb , Its already a powder an won't damage the metal
It depends on which material you're using in your blaster. Silica sand in most blasters is okay if you have proper dust control, but can be dangerous for your health if not. The glass beads (using an acrylic compound) are much safer, but also I would advise good dust control and a nice way to wash them in an eco-friendly way. Walnut or bi-carb is also on the safer side, but there's two schools of thought on walnut, as a lot of wood working teachers exposed to hardwood dusts end up with lung diseases.. but that could also be how much they stress smoke. haha
I was about to say...there are enclosures and reclamation systems for blasting.
@@schmodedo seriously that was driving me nuts.
@Shitpost there are much cheaper ways to die
I LOVE Jeremiah & Zach team up videos. Y'all are goofy and hilarious. Keep 'em coming!
Love this show! And I don't even use tools but I've love the hosts' energy and the fact that they are helping us decide on tools
My two favorites on donut for shurrzy
How is it physically possible that a dude, doesn’t use tools? Genuinely curious.
@@Brodozer39 well I use tools around the house, but I meant more mechanic stuff I don't really use.
when you're sandblasting stuff it's usually a good idea to use enclosed camera instead of doing it in the open. you can recycle sand multiple times too
I love how these MF'ers hired a token black dude. I bet he has to sweep up and pick their crops after each video.
Some types of media become less efficient when reused
Some yes but all the same the mess much reduced alao potential damage from all the free particles
@@SteveFuentesRacing you can still drain it and pour in the fresh batch. it’s easier to clean out a small box than an entire workshop
@@deptusmechanikus7362 yes I agree a blast cabinet or some type of enclosure Is best whether you recycling the media or not
If you want to use a media blaster, investing in a blasting cabinet is a good idea. It would cost more than the option used here, but I think it would still be a pretty cost effective way to remove rust and paint if it's something you need to do often.
Not just that, but breathing in glass or aluminum dust will tear apart your lungs. Even when you’re done blasting, smaller particles will float on the air after you stop. The cabinet means no cleaning and better for your lungs.
But youre limited in space. You can't fit a frame in a box
And an air drier
And a big air compressor
@@d4b4y4re4kid Blasting is usually done outside if you don't have a cabinet or the part is too big.
@@ianrobertson3419 yes im aware. I was replying to the top comments and replies. On how a cabinet is limited if the part your blasting is bigger than the cabinet.
I agree with the round 2 suggestion - rust removal with all the other techniques! The practical side of your videos is great. Thank you.
Dude I’ve watched this show for 3years and they never disappoint with any episode they put out. Your doing amazing
I am new to this channel, so far they have been pretty good ; surprised you're not a *#Patron_Member**"*
@@icosthop9998 lol I want to but my pockets are emptier than a dogs
@@Carrovroom 🤣🤣😂🤣🤣
TY 😅
You got me RoLLing here 😂
LOLz I have Never heard that expression before ❗️👌❗️🤣❗️
I'm holding off buying my 1st EV , so ATM I don't have a bank note.
I'm🙏 praying 🙏 once I do start paying on that EV, my pockets don't end up by yours 😳
It's pretty cool seeing how the laser has a harder time with colors with red in them giving a visualization of the wavelength of light used
Yeah….. it wasnt that impressive…… 50 grand fur such a shit-tool…….than people should laser their common sense….
because from what I know is that rust lasers aren't supposed to affect the paint their suppose to only affect the rust and not damage any of the metal underneath no matter how much you do
Not rust, but just for interest:
brake fluid is something that removes (enamel) paint from plastic parts and leaves the plastic parts untouched - I used it to get the paint off from my painted plastic models. And it tends to undo the glueing as well - so you can do a complete rebuild.
Oven cleaner can strip the chroming from plastic parts - takes a while (hours), but works great.
Clorox Bleach will eat the chrome too and it's faster. More like just 5-10 mins to strip a part, though it does depend a bit on how thick the chrome plating is. The one caveat - this reaction makes bubbles. That makes orientation important, just turn it over to get into new angles. Also, sometimes in really tiny spaces, the bubbles can be small enough that they stick in place and prevent the reaction from working. In this specific situation, the oven cleaner works better. Probably don't want to breath that gas in.
The best general purpose and safest paint stripper for modeling use that I know is an degreaser known as purple power. Let soak for a day or so then scrub with a toothbrush. Wear gloves. Looking at the MSDS, it's really just lye and water with a surfactant. Optionally, replacing the toothbrush with an ultrasonic cleaner makes for perfectly clean parts with basically no work. Still, even without an ultrasonic, in my experience it's far more effective than brake fluid. The only thing I know of that isn't safe to use this on is aluminum. Lye eats it.
Well, if only I knew that before paint stripping my roughcut
@@ColonelSandersLite interesting new ideas.
@@youcansave15ormoreoncarins75 See? One can even learn something on YT. Too bad it's too late for your purpose.
I often use to go to the professionals (for modelmaking e.g. the jeweler's supply store), they often have tools that are simply ingenious as they make a hard job real easy and exact, and often it is not even that expensive given at the amount of work-load reduction.
Or, e.g., if you need a REALLY sharp tip, take syringe needles. They are cheap (100 cost a few bucks), and go down to 0.3 mm, and THEN are sharpened to a point.
Compare them to a standard pin (in a magnifying glass), they look like the round tip of a torpedo in comparison.
Same with SHARP knives, scalpel blades are equally cheap, as throwaway items in professional practice, but sharp as hell, REALLY pointed resp. in many different shapes for different purposes.
Fine milling tools - ask your dentist, they throw them away by the hundreds, they still are great, and tinier than all you get in the hobby-store.
This is helpful for if I ever want to re-paint some of my old Warhammer Age of Sigmar models
The part you found at the track is a counterbalance weight probably for a motorcycle, I had one in my Suzuki 500.
Yeah it's a counter balance shaft of HONDA GX240 or 270 multi-purpose engine
"Rust" can also be good. That plumbing wrench is actually a good example of how rust it used.
The black color it had is not a paint, it was "blued". Fe2O3 is rust, and it is converted (chemically) to Fe3O4, which is iron oxide (magnetite).
Very hard, even brittle, and protects the surface from rust. The conversion process is possible at home.
That’s interesting, I wasn’t aware that was from an electrochemical reaction instead of just plain water. I would’ve thought that was from previous case hardening or tempering.
Muratic acid works soo good
I agree. This is a fun topic but I don't know if the car people are into it....
@@WickdPerfekT ask the gun people lol They have those a lot
@@mechanicalking muratic acid? What is that???
I love how the trained Laser Tech doesn’t wear his safety glasses for the Big Laser.
i agree
In my experience, lots of dudes that have been doing construction for a while also tend to not wear them... For example, my father. Regularly cuts glass with a high speed blade, rarely wear safety glasses...
@@Crypticdragon1 yeah, but this is different. A laser like this just needs to hit the smallest piece of reflective material, and you are blind. Plus a powerful enough one can blind you on the reflection off almost anything. The actual laser guys like styropyro know to always wear your laser safety glasses, or you will be walking around with different glasses and a cane
@@marcusborderlands6177 how is that any different. One shard of glass or the wheel shattering on a cut off wheel or any number of things you are blind too. Or dead.
When you level up in laser tech training your eyes get a natural immunity to lasers. In face, platinum level laser techs can shoot lasers from their eyes.
You guys should test carjacks. (Just posting this before the other guy spams it on here again)
Love it. I’ve seen those spam posts too
There's not much to test on car jacks unless they test hydraulic jacks vs an air Jack because in most cases the floor Jack you buy isn't gonna stop doing its job unless you abuse it.
"Today we are going test which method of carjacking people is the best!"
@@Yaboi-wu2ec love project farm I used to watch all of his videos. Very simple and down to earth comparisons and explanations, with no bias
@@contentlocked99 haha drunken ninja is a name I tried before this one
On the chemicals side, if you want a solution that costs near zero look into vinegar. Especially in your Sonic setup, the combination of the ultrasonic and the vinegar would pretty much remove any surface buildup as well as transforming the rest into that gorgeous black finish you saw a couple times which is actually rust preventative.
I can’t say I know how it does on car parts, but I have used vinegar on things like costume jewelry and the results were great
It works on cleaning toilets as well, even with no scrubbing.
Coca cola and vinegar would be comparable in my opinion.
@@Lwnmwrboy5 while the tannins in Coca-Cola have some benefit, vinegar is a thing all of its own. Using something like cola in a chemical bath tends to leave a residue.
@@leechowning2712 The phosphoric acid in coca-cola is what helps similar to acetic acid (vinegar). Phosphoric acid has some benefits over acetic acid when it comes to iron oxides.
The $50k laser might seem out of range, unless you're a medium-to-larger entity involved in paint and fab/repair. If you're large enough that you're filling out DEQ reports every year, then you're spending thousands and thousands annually for disposing of used blast media and solvents. Far more than you paid _for_ the media and chemicals. You still need booth filters, which also require disposal and lab testing for heavy metals periodically, depending on how large of a haz waste generating site you are. But the laser starts paying for itself quickly in waste & man hours.
Edit: Just realized the boys are fellow Zooz riders. I always knew they were up to no good.
I don’t know much about this stuff but isn’t “media” just a term for the abrasive being sprayed from the sprayer? Like sand mixed with something like garnet kinda like with a water jet?
If so then why not just reuse media, I don’t see why some oxide particles would ruin the medias abrasive capabilities
I’m just assuming it’s effectively sandblasting
@@zyanidwarfare5634 I think it's because the size of the particles are important for the surface you want to prepare (it produces a matte surface, which is great for paint to stick to).
I know there's different grains sizes... The media is called grout where I'm from...and the process is called blasting.
@@zyanidwarfare5634 these parts looked like they are interesting to try out, Zyanid.
@@tylerdurden3722 👍👍
Also works for parts that you can’t put into a booth.
Should have used evaporust, probably one of the most go to things and it's skin safe and eco friendly. I've personally used it and works fantastic.
Yep! Evaporust is awesome. I use it all the time
Molasses does the same thing , fraction of the cost, takes a lot longer though
@@tatatazemefoo They actually cost pretty much the same, go figure. And Evaporust is reusable. Not sure about molasses. And, unlike molasses, no one has been killed by a great Evaporust flood.
@@fltchr4449 hopefully some people know what you meant by flood
Gotta buy feed grade from a farm supply store, then it gets cheap
FYI you got the polarity wrong when you were explaining electrolysis but you got it right in your experiment (the negative is supposed to be on item that is being derusted and the positive goes to your sacrificial metal... Electrolysis is my favorite method of removing rust. Those lasers were amazing!
That and not saying anything about the fact that he has active constant air filters/ventilation in his shop. Only said he had left it unattended indoors for 24hrs releasing free radicals in the form of oxygen and hydrogen. VERY DANGEROUS to do without proper ventilation. Explosive. Electrolysis is best done outdoors by anyone without a proper chem-lab level workshop when it comes to air handling. I.E. any DIYer.
Always remember: Safety Third!
Until just now I thought free radicals were hippie/spiritual nonsense related to "cleansing" the body lmao
@@ArtemisKitty oh yeah, worked at a nickle factory, where everything is made with electolysis, but it is nickle chloride, so instead of oxygen or was it hydrogen, i dont remeber anymore, we had metric tonnes of pure chlorine gass getting released. with 8 huge vacuum compressors. dont remember the exact size. but meter in diameter. liquid rin gcompressor i think i translates into. they have been runnin gfor 50 years in almost pure chlorine. with only normal maintenance
Laser rust removal works great. I own one and have opened a small business doing so. It’s so satisfying to watch the rust just vanish in seconds. 👍🏻
I post my videos and pics, and get a great response from viewers. So cool.
I want to start a laser cleaning business, where did you get your machine from and what field are you working in?
That part is probably a balancing shaft to counteract the vibrations from the engine. The engines from today run on less and less cilinders so that means the engine will vibrate more
How does fewer cylinders mean more vibrations?
@@MetalxXxMayhem because in a V12 for each piston there are 11 others to balance it, so vibrations from 1 only have a twelfth the effect. In an I3 there are only 2 other pistons for 1 piston. this isn't a technical explanation just how I understand the effect. anther way to picture it is you could more easily hear (so feel) 1 guitar in a song with 3 guitars than if the song had 12. how big a part of the ratio is the 1 piston
@@SafffOneee An inline 6 has fewer vibrations than a V12. It's not about amount of cylinders, it's how they're physically set up. An I6 is so much more balanced than a v8.
@@MetalxXxMayhem ah yes i do remember reading something like that when i used to read articles a lot
@@MetalxXxMayhem because 3 cilinders nowadays have to do mork work to have the same power output as a 4 cilinder . That's also why the more cilinder you have the smaller your flywheel is. If u need me to explain you that i will .
a way I've found to work well for at least surface rust is spraying the part in wd-40 chain wax (only thing I had laying around) let it sit for a few mins, sand it with the wax still on, rinse it with water, spray it with regular wd-40 and let it sit for a minute (this dissolves the wax and sort of degreases the part), scrub with a stainless steel scourer (the metal sponge thing) then rinse with water again and dry off. Only takes a few mins and leaves the part clean of rust and somewhat "polished"
6:05 that is a vibration balancer for those small engines aka: Honda, predator, etc. It is used for consumer satisfaction. All it does is it smooths out the vibration of the engine so it's not shaking everywhere and shaking the machine it's on. Hope it helps.
My wife got an ultrasonic cleaner for her furniture refurbishing and they are awesome for removing rust on really old pieces. We never thought of putting a jar of CLR in it though. That's a great suggestion.
What solution did you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?
Tool party is easily my favorite donut series
UP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEEDUP TO SPEED
Same
Either this or WheelHouse
Anything that doesn't involve James having outbursts is great.
hi/low
@@joshuagibson2520 🤡
4:50
getting down to the bare metal isnt exactly great. the “black oxide” you are talking about is magnetite and hematite. Which is about the best corrosion barrier you could hope for.
creating a fresh metal surface only leads to increased corrosion and loss of material in the future.
I guess it depends on what you are planning to do with it. If you want to paint it, bare metal is the way to go.
@@philipphermann9454 thats true. tho i wouldnt recommend it for tools since the process is a bit tedious if you want to do it properly (etch, rust resitant bare metal primer, color coat, top coat). And since most tools see a lot of metal to metal contact you they tend to accumulate scratches that penetrate the color layer and then allow for local corrosion again.
Magnetite is extremely hard and durable (as seen here even power tools with abrasives dont easily penetrate that layer) and superior to most paint systems unless you go into powder or ceramic coating techniques.
So yeah. if you want to paint for aesthetic reasons bare metal is the way to go. but if all you want is a long loving tool id clean up red and orange corrosion (akageneite, lepidocrite, etc) and then just leave the magnetite/hematite layer.
if you live near the sea or in other areas with highly corrosive conditions you can always add an anti-corrodant on top of the magnetite layer, like special oils, waxes or polymer coats
Well said! I am also here to learn how to invest after listening to a lady on tv talk about the importance of investing and how she made 7 figure in 3 month, somehow the video taught me nothing and left me even more confused, I'm a newbie and I'm open to ideas on how to invest for retirement
@@rajeshupadhyay5683
I'll suggest you lookup Priscilla Dearmin-Turner, she's now our real investment prodigy since the crash and have help me recovered my loses
A news host spoke so highly of the💕 woman Priscilla Dearmin-Turner and her loss prevention strategies been trying to get to her ever since
The “thing” @ 13:30 is a counter balancer/weight from a small engine ex. Honda GX390 among others. It’s gear timed with the crank & cam shafts to minimize vibration. I see that part numerous times a week!
No offense but the top comment on this video already answered it a month ago. It’s the very first comment lol.
@@CH-qy5sn I leave em don’t read them but lesson learned. I gave my two cents glad others gave theirs, however don’t care where my comment stand on the list, I just throw it out there if it’s useful to someone cool! (Sorry my original response was kinda meant for a different video) God Bless
Rusty tools soaked in vinegar also works and is environmentally safe. I will say that for the more abrasive rust you can use a solution of baking soda and vinegar and a wire brush and some good old fashioned elbow grease.
No. Baking soda and vinegar immediately reacts with each other (neutralising whatever there is less of), producing carbon dioxide in a bubble froth.
Incidentally, however, this actually makes dumping baking soda followed by acetic acid (vinegar) into your drains the best damn way of cleaning them that I've ever tried - the aggressive formation of micro-bubbles in the gunk loosens it as effectively as anything.
@@mnxsthe reaction also works on rust
@@david-468 no. This reaction doesn't work on rust. You recieve just sodium acetate which do nothing with rust.
Citric acid works better, IMHO. But the best is EDTA.
@@serhiisinilovif you wan to get into the rust removal business you can buy a smaller version of that lase for around 5 to 10 k depending on what size you need. But I'd recommend a 1.5k watt or larger. I'm going into the business when I get my own garage.
Another two techniques are possible. Both are used in antique restoration. 1) Steel wool or soft metal brush to remove any loose red iron oxide. Cleaning and complete degreasing and removal of all oils. Then boiling in water to convert the red iron oxide in contact with the steel to a durable black iron oxide, a passivation process similar to bluing that leaves a rust resistant surface. 2) All the rust can be removed by soaking in a citric acid and dish soap solution which will also remove bluing finishes. A video titled "Rusty Italian Rifle Restoration: 80 Years Hidden in a Wall" explains both these techniques and more.
This has become one of my favorite Donut series. These two work together really well as they hosts.
"We're all fighting entropy"
"We're all oxidizing"
Glass bead blaster used within a "glove box" is my favorite method. Got to have good glass beads and a lots of lots of compressed air. The glove box contains the media, systems that capture and separate the re-usable media from dust totally minimize media consumption. Unfortunately the whole entire system I'm referring probably cost about $6,000.00 (+ -) But it works so good I want one if I had a shop to put it in LOL the one I used at work in the shipyard was Superior to anything else I've ever used! Enjoyed your video thank you👍🙂
Six dollars? 👀
@@TS_Mind_Swept ? Lol my bad 6k $ ($6,000.00) not $6 (six)😁
@@polarblue7468 In some countries they use the commas and periods in reverse, so I wasn't sure 🤷🏿♀️
@@TS_Mind_Swept no worries thanks for pointing it out - 💖
I just got a used one the needs repair for like 800 but it’s also from the early 2000s and very used
I have tried that Harbor Freight sandblaster on a couple of occasions. As you commented you need lots of air, a lot more than a home compressor or even small shop compressor can provide to maintain a reasonable duty cycle. Secondly, the sand has to be absolutely dry or it will cake in the siphon setup. The third problem is the abrasive action of the sand will wear through the supply tubing and nozzle tip in short order. I found that the cheap setup will fail within an hour or two of continuous use, depending on the abrasive you use. Don't expect it to be useful for any more than a one off project. I used one to clean up a shelving unit I got at a junkyard and it was completely spent. Tried to sandblast a 54 inch mover deck with another cheap unit my Dad had, and it wasn't able to finish the job before I went through the nozzle tips. At least he had a better compressor.
ceramic nozzles
13:07 the bloke running the laser doesn’t seem to worry about his eyes 😂😂😂
He's used to it lol
@@user-ke1gn3ql1g And the age-old saying may ring true ... "Do not look into laser with remaining eye"
Yeap not the brightest thing to do. Kinda a worry given its what he does for a living.
I think it's because the laser is infrared and from the angle he's standing there won't be any direct reflection of laser light. Only the brightness of the burning rust
@@SafetyLucas Perhaps that's true, but even welding arcs can cause permanent damage, and it does appear that the laser is zapping the rust with similar intensity. Well, not my eyes anyway.
Did you guys do stress test on sockets yet?
Also, would like to see:
Tire pressure gauges
Portable tire compressors
Brake bleeder kit
Drill bits
Screw drivers stress test
Multi meter
Jack stand stress test
bro my portable ryobi 18v tire compressor is a life saver (i drift) ive gotten my tires to like 80 psi with them lol
Oh jack stands are good idea!!! That could be really cool to see if they actually hold up.. trouble lights could be cool too
Is Daytona worth the money?
I second jack stand super stress test. Drop like 5 tons on a 2 ton or something I wanna see that
@@GrizzlyWang And how may other tire compressors have you tried with comparison?
I used CLR to clean the inside of an old water logged gas tank for my motorcycle. Worked great
About the blasting, that glass sand is not the most abrasive sand and you used a toy setup. In industrial environment with a proper compressor it won't be any rust left in seconds and will start eating into the metal. And like other people commented, usually the blasting is done inside a closed room to recover the so called "sand" (but can be a lot of things instead of glass powder, including commonly used steel grit or balls). Also a protection gear includes a strong mask and suit to protect the user from bouncing sand, which from high speeds compressors can shred your skin in seconds including clothes, and has an air hose at the back connected to a source of breathable air. Else the surrounding air can be full of powder and if you blast something big and rusty like a big water tank it can be a a major rust cloud that you barely see through 1 meter in front of you. Definitely not good for breathing :) For those big items the work is done with very high presure and a hose resembling firefighters hose size and handling under pressure, rather than that small gun and home air compressor. Also the noise is very loud even through the noise cancelling ear plugs worn inside the helmet.
i had work wit a big one where you only needed to drop what you want in and close the chamber the work will be done itself and yeah it remove everything it used Silicon Carbide if after the second time they where still rust we will just scrap the piece since we had removed to much materials
"a toy setup" its almost like these videos are made for the average people genius
@@ghostinghosts4221 All the more reason to provide accurate, factual information instead of acting like amateur comedians who simply waste your time.
3:50 glass beads are actually really soft and more for 'polishing' the material. Garnet sand would be way more aggressive then glass beads
Soda blasting might work.
Also they didn’t use a chamber to keep the mess in
@@whattheglasses9904 XD yeah so funny they donr have or know someone with a professional setup
@@fdsfggr yeah it is
What do you guys recommend for brick exterior? I know some media can score/damage the surface when removing old hard paint and plaster etc
I have one of the ultrasonic cleaners and it’s awesome. Great for carb cleans as well as rust removal and even just cleaning the dirt off of something
also very common (though in smaller scale) for cleaning glasses :D
We use one at work to clean turbine engine parts in conjunction with oakite rust stripper
@@Demonslayer20111 nice!
@@MCBritta cool lol
Rust comes from the north not the south. Everyone knows the rust mines are in the northern part of the country.
the north and also the east coast. we have a lot of rust in jersey😂
Yeah not much rust in the south except in the castal areas.
Rust comes from water theres plenty of humidity in the south east.
@@shadow105720 no it comes from the rust mines in the north.
@@themanwhosalttheworld 🤡
The cool thing about being able to record these videos is that you get the test out the tools, and then you can have them around the shop and if they are useful, then just a win-win.
My favorites are muriatic acid, evapo rust, and electrolysis. They work really well. Muriatic acid is good for stuff on the car, you can soak towels in it and leave them to sit there, and agitate the metal brush every few minutes. You have to make sure you have good ventilation though. Evaoprust is good for bolts and small parts you can put in a container that you're not in a rush to clean. It's non toxic and it's reusable. Electrolysis is really good for large parts you put in a storage container. I did this on my rusty seat rail to get it to move and it worked really well.
I second this. Evapo Rust uses a catalytic reaction to remove rust, is super safe to use, even with bare hands. If you're willing to wait, it does a fantastic job. A few tool restoration folks on TH-cam use this and it's almost magic.
I'll third evaporust. It might take a day, but non toxic and won't stink up your shop or eat away the base steel like muriatic acid will.
evaporust is the golden path
If you do soak parts on the car with acid be sure to spray/soak with baking soda water when you're done to neutralize any residual acid.
I was super bummed to see CLR as their chemical choice, Evaporust is the GOAT!
I am surprised they didn't test evapo-rust vs the CLR. The stuff has been shown to work really well. As well as just soaking it in vinegar.
There is a better channel for that type of stuff ;)
@@amatureskater15 very true. But they went as far as electrolysis, so I figured they would have tried a few more things. As most people won't go that far.
Have used vinegar on a number of rusted tools, works really well and is super cheap
Project farm did a great review of the liquid rust options. He does some awesome reviews on all kinds of stuff.
You two together genuinely make me so happy, I wanna see more of these!
Fr!!!
I’m an aircraft structures & sheet metal mechanic & have dealt with plenty of corrosion during my career. Mostly aluminum but sometimes steel. I wish you guys would’ve used my favorite method for smaller areas of rust, which is a die grinder with a scotch brite wheel. Easy & fast! Similar to your drill & wire wheel but much easier & faster.
Evapo rust is great stuff, removes rust while being super safe to use. Turns everything i have tried back to bare steel. Its even exposed paint that was under the rust
counter balance shaft from a single cylinder engine. Sometimes removed to reduce parasitic loss
I've never seen a single cylinder engine with a balance shaft. They may exist but I have never seen it. They are usually found in inline 3, 4 and 5 cylinder engines as well as 90 degree V6s. Also oddballs like V4s, straight twins, etc.
@@wingracer1614 Check out any CRF Honda
I just soak parts in distilled vinegar for a couple of days and then use grinders and drills with wire brushes and they'll wipe off all the rust that the vinegar loosened. So much cheaper than other chemicals and much easier and safer to dispose of.
Same here! Works amazing and its cheap!
Your mystery parts are balance shafts to cancel engine vibration. They are timed opposite of the piston and rod assembly.
that mystery thing might be a counter balance shaft on a small engine.
Closest I could find was for a Honda GX. You're definitely right that it's a balance shaft.
@@TherapyGel yeah, that's very close indeed
Zach and Jeremiah are my favourite presenters on Donut, and Tool Party is always a fun watch. Keep it up!
One thing you can also try is the vinegar method. I use it in a two step process to restore tool files, and it works out great. I'm hoping to perfect it a little further, still requiring a bit of research to make it work even better.
these dudes' rivalry is hilarious
Coming from and industrial coatings background as well as automotive refinishing I can tell you a media blaster is an amazing tool to have on hand! I've done it on a much much bigger scale obviously, but relatively inexpensive to get into and works great for removing rust and pretty much anything else you want gone. Also if you are repainting parts it gives a great profile in the substrate for paint to stick to as compared to a wire wheel or chemicals. You guys also should have tried a wheel abrader. That laser is cool AF tho!!!
Hint: If you sand-blast cast iron it needs to be primed immediately (mild metal too), don't wait until the next day. Cast iron will have surface rust on it the next morning, depending on the humidity of where you are.
@@jb3536 treatment is a must especially in the northern states where we salt the roads
I'm loving tool party so far! Yall should do air impacts vs electric handheld ones to see if it's worth it or not
I've got one of of these Pulse Laser Cleaning Machines and it's amazing! This tehcnology can only get better with time. Great video btw!!
Despite a large part of the audience probably being children, there’s actual effort and real content here.
Verygood.
9:15 when they say "laser time" and the camera shoots up, I feel like that's a direct reference to the old William Osman videos because he did exactly that when he used his laser cutter
Yeah fr
“We’re all just fighting entropy, Jobe.”
“That’s right, we’re all oxidizing.”
This got deep.
yea man, wasn't expecting that... We're all just falling apart
Electrolysis is friggin awesome. Science is so rad. I watch a lot of restoration videos that use this method, but I've always wanted to try it myself
Everytime i come back to this channel, the content gets smoother, more refined, and just overal improvement. An absolute pleasure getting to come back to better and better videos every time
"We can't use the laser bc we aren't certified" 13:05 ok well either this guy lost his job or he don't need safety glasses and knows something we don't
Yeah definitely just more of a liability thing, that company didnt want these guys just playing with and risking machine damage since they dont know how those machines work. I cant imagine they would be very complicated but yeah since they werent bought thats my thought on it
🤔🤔🤔
He will soon permanently lose his vision.
When the "baby toy" 200W laser requires safety goggles but the 1500W laser doesn't XD
Love the show! Here's some tools I thought would be entertaining to test.
Jack stands
Ways to cut metal, sawsall, angle grinder, plasma, cnc, band saw. Or just torture test angle grinders/reciprocating saws
Ways to strip paint
The laser rust remover is so good, it removes not just the rust but also your lifetime savings.
I clean guns for family/friends and I personally use naval jelly to remove rust. It works phenomenally and in my experience can actually be reused if stored properly afterwards. Just leave it in for about 10 minutes and it'll strip it down to the bare metal. It's a cheap and effective method for rust removal.
make sure you wash your hands after cleaning guns. Lead poisoning lowers the IQ
@@Derelictos what guns are you cleaning made of lead? Sounds like someone drank their own koolaid
Evaporust works best and see it used in practically every maker space and workshop so surpised it wasn't used here. Works 1000x better than CLR, cheap, reusable, and pretty non-toxic. WAY better than CLR.
So not having Evaporust in this video is like having a video about how to properly drive a nail and not include or mention any hammers.
They may have been sponsored by CLR.
I think a dry ice blaster would also be another alternative. Love the work! Keep it up guys!
A what???
@@carpediemarts705 exactly what it says…dry ice blaster.
Love the cheesiness of this show.
that unidentified part at 6:08 belongs in the millenium falcon, was part of the atenna that lando breaks.
That laser might be the coolest thing I’ve seen on your channel so far, I love it!
More likely . . . the hottest. 😎
11:02 that was funny and wrong at the same time haha
You Guy's are the BEST Channel for Cars and Tool's. Keep on doing you'r thing. Awesome!!!!
Wait, the dude operating the freakin' rust-blasting laser gun is named "Sun" and everyone just glosses over this? That's the best name for a laser tech you can imagine! How do we just ignore this?
Although it isn't pronounced like the English word sun. It is more like "siuen" or "sven"
This is one of my favorite series you have done
Man, I love rust removal -- knife and tool restoration is a hobby of mine, and there isn't much as satisfying as watching rust get removed. Just a word though, regarding electrolysis: if stainless steel or anything else containing chromium is used as the anode (aka "sacrificial element"), the chromium will oxidize, becoming hexavalent chromium. This is........... undesirable.
+1 for sciency health warning.
I used CLR on a really rusted engine block when I was building a coffee table. I had to get a 25 gallon bucket but it worked so well. I was able to paint it after. But the electrolysis probably would have been better or sand blasting
If yall are going budget (good for small items) then you can leave whatever ur unrusting submerged in vinegar for 24 hrs. Rust will be removed and then make sure u dip unrusted tool in a mix of water and baking soda for a while before taking out and drying. If you dont use the baking soda/ water mixture itll rust again and probably faster than before.
Love this show, donut is the best team on TH-cam, very enjoyable content!!
I’ve got my grandfathers 100 year old Allen wrench from the early 1900s. I’m def gonna use the hand method so I don’t damage it more. Thanks guys!
it’s crazy to think how far technology has came that rust can simply be removed by a laser
on your respiratory masks make sure you put the padding and plastic cover that comes with the mask on the vents so you will actually keep all of the rust vapors out. without that padding it will not be able to keep those vapors out
The electrolysis is basically electroplating the scrap with rust from the part you are cleaning.
You guys need to run your spot blaster in a closed off box, or have a vacuum near the nozzle. The dust hangs in the air and depending on what your using it could be extremely damaging to your lungs, not sure if you took your mask off right after blasting, but if you did, you definitely still breathed in some dust.
only donut media can make purchasing jaws of life entertaining
I think it would be interesting to do a "mechanic's toolset" comparison. Obviously stuff like quality, but also how many of the tools are actually useful? How many tools are missing? Are any of the options actually one-stop shopping?
Just like project cars, tool purchases are never complete. 😂 You always have something you need/want to buy. 🤣
I love the content you guys bring on a regular basis.
The part you are wondering about is definitely an engine balancer from a single cylinder engine. Probably from a go-kart.
That's what I was thinking. Either a Honda clone or a Briggs but tbh I don't know
They probably had an oil pan failure at 6800rpm.
The coolest thing about the laser is you can clean stone to and some other metals, so if you have like old marbel wall/floor/counter and so one that looks SHITTY bad, you can get it back to like it is new. That tool is VERY cool and when prices go down alittle I might just invest =)
yes, it can clean stone.
Anther option that is an old school gunsmith way is to use boiling hot water, as opposed to boiling cold water... :) By letting the rusted item sit in the boiling water for a bit of time it converts the ferric oxide, red rust to ferro-ferric oxide, black rust, that protects the metal. Then hit it with a carding wheel. I highly suggest Mark Novak's YT channel where he talks about this in a few different episodes.
If you lower air pressure enough it will eventually cause the water to boil, so yeah, "cold" water can definitely boil.
The issue with laser methods is that if you forget to wear the goggles, just having that laser in your peripheral vision would instantly blind you. It's not something to be messed with.
Especially that 1500W laser. Even if you looked in the near vicinity of that laser, it would likely cause permanent eye damage, if not blindness.
I use to operate one and wanted to mention this because I saw they weren't wearing their laser glasses, its not something to screw around with.
Yeah, which is why I was quite uncomfortable at 13:10 when Sun was operating it without goggles. Styropyro would not approve.
It definitely shouldn't instantly blind you. I work with 6-12kW lasers for cutting sheet metal and plate. There's a "small" chance that the laser can bounce off certain metals and damage/blind you. But for the most part, you should be okay. The laser actually has to hit your eyes. Unless these lasers are waaaaaayyyy different than cutting lasers.
Reason?
@@erikbouchard8911Yeah, different lasers have different risks. I'm not sure about the fiber laser used in these rust removal applications, but I'm pretty sure it's not recommended to stare at it.
Powerful visible light lasers will instantly blind you if you so much as look at the spot on the wall, or see it reflected off of something. Visible light lasers are terrifying.
10:56 no one talkin bout the unabomber joke was great
That joke was explosive.
Yes I am aware this comment Is 9 months old
@@anomunususer6986it was
Yes I also am aware this reply is 9 months old
FYI you can use the electrolysis method to plate steel with steel. This works great for restoration of motorcycle tanks without damaging the finish on preservation projects that have to remain in original condition.
How do you do that?
@@hellkell8693 you can find hundreds of videos online.
Mystery part is a balancer shaft. Looks a bit like the ones used in small Honda GX series