Realy like your videos. But i Think you have made a mistake. A dangerous one. The original upper control arm design allows for "thin" sleeves because the control arm isnt welded on . But welded in! This way the sleeves won't be pulled oval. With your design, the sleeves are welded on and now the sleeves schould be thicker, much thicker!
I agree 100%. I have since welded on some gussets that surround the bushing sleeves and weld on to the arm plates. There will be an update video soon, but until then, I’ll pin this comment in the event someone thinks to copy what I did. Thank you! And cheers.
@@GarageFab I'm also slightly concerned about how much weld bead you have left in your dimples, since you were scooping out a concavity. But then, I don't know how much (if any) overlap you had between your spacer tubes and the hole diameter in the plates. So it may not be an issue. Just something to think about.
It’s definitely an issue! (Or was) My Design was the holes in the plate were equal to the outside diameter of the tubes. This created essentially a circular open corner joint. But yes, the ball nose burr carved out a lot of that weld. So I decided to weld around the tubes on the inside. It’s not as clean looking but I’m happier with it.
I also like the how you showed your mistakes, but improved on them and kept moving the project further. I'm just getting into fabrication and welding and I'm glad to know even the one's who have been at this longer make mistakes.
Aaron, three things: love the tip of adding weight to the small pieces cut on the chop saw - I will be stealing this; great solution using the router with a burr - never thought of that and another tip I’ll be stealing; and number 3, thanks for the reminder to get up from the toilet to get the blood back into my legs. Cheers!
Aaron, here is a tip from an old steam boiler vessel fabricator concerning how to clean up the undercut welds on the Swiss cheese holes. Use a Ridgid pipe reamer, and hand ream the mild steel. As long as the fillet welds are not too hard, you will find this method extremely fast and self-centering. You may even ream the plates before welding in the spacers, thus allowing you to stack dimes on the beveled joint ! ! Love your channel and your style 🤓
Not sure if I understand your question, Bobby. Wheels generally mount to a hub with a very snug fitting center. This center prevents shear forces on the lugs. I’m assuming you’re referring to the same principle on the arms. All I can say for sure is the ball joints don’t fit the factory control arms as tightly as a hub fits in a wheel. The bolts endure all the forces on the factory arms, so I honestly didn’t even think about it when I built mine.
The man, the myth, the legend... Mr. Mankandy himself! hahahah. I screamed out loud when you mentioned me lmao, was not expecting that. Great video and roller coaster ride, kept me glued to the screen!! Excited to see this collab, I think i have an idea who he is... You're killing the YT game! Keep on truckin'
I have determined two things from watching your videos. 1, you are without a doubt insane and 2, your videos are very informitave. Heep up the good work!!!!
@@GarageFab when i got my first welder... was doing an unrelated project building a big fermentation/cooler/box thing from an old freezer and i accidentally nicked a steel condenser line... micro pinhole leak. could occlude it with my finger. had the bright idea to zip a tack on the spot. glad i googled first... same result : phosgene. most def important to look several layers deep into what you're doing safety related and generally unintended consequences as youve done in many vids. much appreciated
@DeagleBingo That one story reminded me of two stories. The first time I read about phosgene was when I unintentionally tried to exterminate all my coworkers. At the time my employer didn’t have the correct equipment to recover AC refrigerant. I’ve always been a tree hugger so I decided it would be brilliant to vent the refrigerant into the intake of the running engine to burn it off. The exhaust smelled shockingly strange and so I aborted and did some research. Whoops. And the other… In my early days, I was once welding some steel fuel line organizing brackets onto my truck frame. The hardline was already installed. And the truck was just running a few moments before. I nicked the fuel pressure line with the welder and created a 3 foot rainbow of fire. So pretty.
Aaron, I’ve binged every single one of your videos in the last 3 days! I’m glad that TH-cam is finally showcasing your channel. Keep moving forward! (One of my favorite YT catch phrases)!
Are you saying that TH-cam is recommending Garage Fab content? Awesome. We might actually be making some progress. Thank you for your time and eyeballs my friend!
You remind me of a teacher I had in college who was very excited about the subject she taught and that made the class me lectures very fun to be in. Also, I was yelling at the screen for Swiss cheese. Glad you heard me. Also, also… ball joints.
I’ve had some teachers like that as well, Victor. I cherish them because that made me separate boredom from stupidity. By that I mean I thought I was dumb. Learning impaired perhaps. But in reality I just wasn’t interested enough. Thank you Victor!
I was yelling the same thing at my laptop screen. My neighbors know I love Swiss cheese now. Good thing he has all of us to help him make things happen. LOL 😁👍
It’s really refreshing that you share your missteps! Was kinda surprised that you didn’t set up a stop on your cold saw for the rounds you cut. The intermission was awesome!!! Oil and welding have never really got along! The “sculpted” holes look great!!! The ball joint angle is now something else to consider, had to watch that segment a couple times!! Love your content, editing, style!!
Thank you Brad! I agree about the saw stop. I should have, I never have, and I’m not sure how I’d even do it on this saw. Is that weird? I’ll look at it tomorrow and see what I can come up with. My measurements were close but imperfect. A stop certainly would’ve done a better job.
I am so glad you addressed the ball joint angle at the end. I was really curious how that worked. Every time I watch your videos I realize how much I don’t know about suspensions.
Tell me about it. I’m still learning myself. There’s a LOT to know. Once you learn how the components work together then you have to learn how physics comes into play. 😩
Aaron , I work in a machine shop and we drill hundreds of holes a week we have found through failure of cutting tools the best cutting fluid is water based you mix the cutting fluid from the gallon container with water. And the cutting tool example , end mill, shell mill, drill bit ... Bites through the steel. and does not create smoke and the tool does not slip it cuts .. also when the parts come to me to be welded I just wash them in hot water then sand the edges and we have not had porosity problems. Also we have found the best fluid for taping is Tap Magic the reason i say this is because we would spend hours making a part. Then break a tap off on the last operation I dont know if tap magic is made from the water that comes from old nuclear power plants but you can feel it smoothly cut the threads by hand and it works wonders in machine operation. Man K i like your work ethic you do nice work Pete
Thank you Pete! Do you have a brand name for this cutting solution? I’d love to try it out. All the cutting lubes I’ve used are all oil based. Yes they smoke. But also all the metal pubes that are left on the drill press and floor are oily. I think a water based fluid would be fantastic! I’ll try it Tap Magic too. Luckily I’ve gotten far more patient with my taps. If they hang up even a little, I back up and try again. Has far too many broken trap experiences. Cheers mate!
Came from Fabrication Series!!! Awesome builds man !!! Running a 2001 Camaro Camed full exhaust BBK headers stage two build on the old T-56 from Texas drivetrain performance. Just need some slicks and a rear end 😂 before I blow the old 10 bolt apart hahah
That TFS guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about. 😂 Sounds like a bucket of giggles! Sploding the rear end seems like it might be a good time too! Thank you my friend. 🙏
Very nice Dae and I really appreciate your videos. We are building a 1952 Chevy 3100 and you have given us some really good ideas. Thanks again and keep those videos coming.
Great editing and also excellent content. Your first cut to black saying the video was over definitely got me I had to double check the video length. Your breakdown of how things work and why you did what you did are always good to hear for anyone else that may be on their own similar journey. Keep it up.
You know, I can't figure out subscriptions for videos. Your videos are outstanding. I watch a lot of fab videos and yours are some of the most helpful, clear, and best made. You deserve more subscribers!!! Go figure.
Subscriptions don’t mean what they used to. Once upon a time, you’d subscribe to a channel you wanted to see more from and TH-cam would let you know when they released new videos. That stopped for some reason and they added a bell 🔔 to request TH-cam to notify you when new content was released. It will indeed send you a notification, but often that notification is the only way of accessing that video. Instead they promote videos they think you’ll enjoy more. Very strange system. Regardless! Thank you my friend. I appreciate your time, eyeballs, and kind words. Cheers!
16:37 I find using a laser level helps me align cuts over uneven parts, trimming curved bumpers, cutting fenders ect. Just a cheap dewalt one with horizontal and vertical lines and a magnetic mount on a stand….
Brilliant. I was shopping for one a couple weeks ago, but got discouraged by the price. (I was looking for a 3 plane unit) I’ll need it on the next frame build starting from scratch so I’ll have to revisit soon.
To remove the metal splinters from running a carbide burr, use WD40 to flush your arms, spray down with low pressure shop air, then wash as normal. I prefer old school aloe and lanolin cleaner, but dealer's choice. SLS and SLA are bad for your skin. The WD40 is just a nice, cheap low viscosity organic oil. I get the gallon jugs and put it in spray bottles in my shop. Those aerosol bottle are convenient but stupid expensive for the same volume of product. Reusable spray bottles are nice that use bulk WD40 and compressed air. When they run empty, you just refill them and re-pressurize it with shop air. Buy-in on thos is expensive though.
Dude! I go through so much WD! This comment was worth its weight it Gold. (That saying doesn’t work for comments does it? 🤔) I will definitely be doing this soon. 👏
Hello Hello From Victoria Canada!!! That was the best episode I've seen you do so far on your channel! Even though I am fairly new to your fab community, I have learned so much from each different episode its amazing. I really wish I had you for a metal/mechanics shop teacher in high school, because my life might have gone a different direction. You demonstrated to all the new fab guys or gals watching you, that there are a lot of pro modder friendly tools like using the router. Like you opted for the dimple die look to finish the welds, "That is what I was yelling for my choice at the laptop when you asked what would we do", but there are so many different ways you could have made the flat plate surface pop with engraved designs. There aren't many fabricator guys or gals that think of using tools made for woodworking, when they have to make something custom on their rides or for their shops. If you use a rounded or a fine tip die bit in a router you could have engraved lettering, or some incredible decorative scroll designs like tribal tattoos or because it is your sweetie's ride, she might have liked a swirling scrolling vine design. You can also use a router table to mount a die grinder and do the most awesome edges rounded, chamfered, beveled or an even more detailed decorative edge done with two die profiles to really go making custom one off stuff. A table saw with a 10" metal cutting chop saw wheel makes long plate cuts a breeze or raise the disc just enough to scribe a long plate for bending, as long as the arbor diameter matches you can even mount a 12" or 14" disc if there is clearance for even cleaner straight cuts. Sorry for getting to into the tool thing, but I am in both worlds metal and wood so I get passionate about my tools. Keep up the awesome content and I can't wait to see more on your channel and see where your future episodes will take us all. I don't know if you get to read all your many comments, but I hope you and all those near or dear to you, stay safe, have good health, have good luck and find as much happiness as you can possibly enjoy. (All your TH-cam community included) 🤘😁👍
I appreciate you for what you do. So freaking entertaining with you humor. The things you are doing like these control arms are what I need to do next on my build so your videos help me tremendously cuz I sit here contemplating how to do my next step. So thank you thank you thank you
Great video. As always your explanations about your reasons for doing all parts to your process are put in the simplest way so that all can understand. But this comment is more focused on your editing. I thought the music was pumped up for this video. Loved it! I was well informed and also jamming to awesome tunes.
Haha! Thank you Jason. I’m finding many folks would prefer no music. 🤔 Music has always been a huge motivating force in my life, so the tunes are here to stay.
love the content man,, much appreciated, lots of learnings from both videos on this project, the main takeaway for me would be to get some bushing sleeves turned from heavy wall pipe or bar stock. I'm going to follow your method to get some Arms made for a frontier.
Yessir! I think the most common inner sleeve is cut from heavy wall DOM tubing. Lemme know how it goes or if you need guidance. You know where to find me!
When the welds in the spacers didn’t turn out right you could chuck it up in the vise and re drill the holes with the same bit. It will make a smooth bore and you could tig a decorative bead around the surface of the holes to cover up the undercut
As a retired semi-professional car show build critic, I would have to deduct well over 73 points for welds that are unsculpted on the bottom of any control arms. That's for each unsculpted weld! Sculpt now or regurt later is a very common phase in my community. Thanks for all the tips!
Haha! It will be a mental battle for me until I finally dip them in color. But! I’m pretty sure I’m not going to touch them. Partially because I’m lazy. And partially because I’m itching to start my own truck so badly that I fantasize about someone breaking into my garage and stealing this truck. I just need it finished. I’ve put enough “extra miles” into this thing. My Wife just wants to drive it again. There will be no Riddler Award attempts with this one.
@@GarageFab I don't know either of you but between his engineering skill but lack of welding skills and your practical skill and welding skills... plus you're both hilarious. It would be awesome. I think he's in LA.
😂really like what you’re producing. Reminds me of back in the day when I was a fabricator at Stage 1 customs. I have fab advice stop using a sharpie marker and switch to blueing the metal and using a scribe the results are worth it. Gives a more precise end result.
And it looks way cooler. 😆 I just got a can recently. Still haven’t used it yet. I purchased it for the projects that require precision. I haven’t had a lot of those recently. Thank you my friend!
Good thing you are OK after the welding. NEVER use brake clean before welding. With some types of welding and the shielding gas in contact with brake clean can make Fosgene gas. Extremely deadly nerve agent. Do a little research so you can keep yourself safe. Also it’s usually a good idea to try and keep all suspension parts as light as possible. This has to do with unstrung weight and slower suspension reaction times with the heavier the parts.
I’m embarrassed it seems everyone knew about this brake clean thing but me. I definitely got the memo this time around. Thank you Ken! As for the unsprung weight… yup! There’s more weight in the suspension components than there is in the rest of the truck. It won’t perform well when racing. Luckily this truck won’t see an ounce of performance driving. (Except for the shakedown when I test everything out.)
He meant unsprung wieght The ratio of static car wieght verses the wieght of parts that move in the suspension Plus the rolling spung wieght is most important That is the easiest thing to do to go faster. Lighten wheels and anything that rotates
Your videos are toxic, they're giving me too many ideas in my man cave of a workshop 🤣🤣 Huge props to you and your way of looking/thinking of many different things to make it work. Stay solid, & Keep movin' forward
I was shocked at first! Toxic?! That’s the opposite of my goal! 😂 Thank you my friend. You are appreciated. There’s no such thing as “too many ideas” as long as you have priorities. Tackling several projects at once will be a total disaster.
Amazing job on the upper A arms, i ran into this same issue on my M2 front end under my 53 chevy. Also note the rack and pinion can limit travel also, it may need to be raised to compensate.
It can! But I’m hoping that since the steering goes up when I Zeed the frame I won’t have to worry about it. HOWEVER! You just made me say it out loud and suddenly I’m unsure if the drag link will hit the bottom of the engine now. 🤦🏻♂️
5 gallon bucket with TSP (trisodium phosphate) in water tucked away with a lid on it makes an excellent degreaser for weld prep and always nice to have water in a bucket for the occasional shop fire. Makes a good wet sanding additive with dawn to rinse sandpaper buildup, too.
@@GarageFab 😆😆😆 live and learn. We all have those kinds of brain cramps. You get into that groove and then the brain rushes you through the process. Been there and done that many times.
Dude! Magic is definitely happening. Zero complaints here. Starting out was tough because there was zero reward for all the hard work. Now YouTubin almost seems like a realistic career goal. Almost. 😂 Thank you, Alex! I appreciate you.
Love your style, very entertaining as oposed to many guys cranking out "sermon" like material, admonitory and patronising. Also love how you're honest about mistakes and sometimes settling for "sub par" solutions until the natural evolution of one's skillset eventually figures out a better way. As far as the tech content, I'd advise against using the ball nose portion of a burr because it ends up being weaker than a 45°. Or maybe go wild with the ballnose and then add up some nicer weld bead? I think that the added strenght will balance out the weakness of introducing more heat input.
Thank you Juan! That means a lot to me. I was about to ask why the ball burr would weaken things, but all I had to do was think about it for a moment. I likely carved a lot of the weld off the ledge that the beads sit on. I think I’m going to go through and weld the opposite side the best I can. They won’t be perfect but they’ll be much better. Much appreciated my friend.
@@GarageFab The router idea blew my mind, then I recalled taht I did something similar (but with a ball end mill on a rotary table) and the looks was amazing but it developed cracks out of taking out most of the reinforcement material, leaving the fusion of the base material and some reinforcement... I guess that sometimes in an effort to take things to the next level we all trade pretty in favor of strong. The ATF as cutting lube would make your life miserable, as you figured out. splatter, undercut, whatnot. Another trick up your sleeve for welds that escalated into headache territory, in this case, would be using ER308L wire as it's way more forgiving and has a lot of pool cleansing additives (not to mention it has about 40% higher tensile strenght module).
Hey Aaron just a tip to help with cutting small round tube on the saw-add some sticky backed emery paper 80 -120 grit to the clamp plates or use some right angle with same on inside of he angles to grip the pipe or round bar. Prevents it rolling in the jaws.
Great content!! Love it!! The new sign was such a cool tie in to the slow down make sure both control arms face the correct direction and a remake twist on keep moving forward. Multilevel chess game producing parts, content and dry humor all at the same time. The carbide bit in the router is such a great idea, haven't I seen you use that before? The cardboard from the car split shot just appeals so much to my inner middle schooler. That stuff never gets old!
Haha! Editing. If it’s not fun it’s boring. Thank you Michael! I always appreciate your time. Yes! I use the router often. It’s one of my favorite tools. It makes fancy looking work much easier! See you in the next my friend.
My tundra has bolt on lowers and press in uppers retained with a snap ring. I use a C-clamp style ball joint press in the wheel well and it’s quicker and easier than pulling the 2’ cambered bolt out when the bushings are still good. No need to reset alignment after as only the pivot joint was replaced.
Nice to see how the jig from your previous video came into use. The Swiss cheese layout is one I haven't seen done before, but I expect you will pull it off. 🇦🇺
Nice job MK. I've been planning the same holes through the frame look on my build. I have a different approach in mind. I'll let you know if it works out.
I sure dig watching you build a fresh suspension, I'm in the planning stages of my Trans Am build and I'm running into informational roadblocks. I have this insane notion to fab some custom uprights like on the trophy trucks so I can position my spindle at the optimal height for my build and retain suspension travel, plus shorten the tie rod mounting point for greater steering angle.
Looking to make a set of lowers for my 02 Avalanche to get rid of the torsion bars to install coil overs my only concern caster and camber for alignments
I haven’t finished the lower arms yet but I’m installing some alignment cams. Perhaps that would help. th-cam.com/video/fxRap1HwYVI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ngqxOMNOUR2KHwQF Typically alignment adjustments are on the opposite arm in a torsion bar setup.
@@GarageFab I it’s a learning curve for me was thinking heavy duty adjustable rod ends. I heard it was make the ride really stiff, but it’ll give me the option to adjust the controller arms for alignment. What are your thoughts on that?
I’ve been told adjustable bar ends shouldn’t be used with forces pushing perpendicular to the threaded shaft. In other words they’re intended for push/pull only. But I’d be a liar if I said I’ve never done it. My rear link bars are often load bearing and adjustable. I have not, however done that in the front with the weight of the engine on them. I’d go with the alignment cams as a first choice. It’s easier to adjust anyway. 🤔
You make interesting videos. Your like a regular Joe doing fab work. Like Lee161 said, I hope you used non-chlorinated brake clean because if you didn't then with welding the chorinated brake clean makes Phosgene Gas. Be careful what you clean with.
I was here to post the same! For anyone curious, it's the combination of the chlorinated BC, Argon, and heat. It won't make you sick though - most people are dead before they hit the floor. :/
Oh… and yes… non chlorinated, but still likely terrible to breathe in. I’m looking into some water based cutting fluids in hopes chemicals aren’t needed to clean. Thank you both!
Thank you Craig! If I can come up with some way of using a template with the router, I’ll likely mimic the dimple dies in plate a lot more often. These are great but they’ve obviously (to me) been free-handed. Thank you, Craig! Hope all is well.
Dimple cuts look like engine valve seats. Last time I welded one in a ford flathead (weld for seat, don’t weld a press fit seat) I used the cheapest eBay valve cutter in a drill and sandpaper superglued to the bottom of an old valve with a valve grinding suction cup and scrap stainless rod that fit… in a drill to cut weld into seat.
Nice Video as always!!! My 50 has that A-Frame setup with no ball joints. (King pins and screw in trunnions.) I was bummed because You really can't get more caster without the trunnions binding. But when it lays out there is ZERO ball joint bind to worry about. Life is give and take. Keep moving forward!!!
Thank you! I will eventually. I would only use it for aluminum though. And at some point chromoly roll cages. Otherwise I’m far too impatient and cheap. TIG takes far too long and Argon ain’t cheap!
Super cool video. I am considering spherical control arm bushings for my 1999 Volvo s70 T5, they come with different adjustment for positive caster. Do you think spherical control arm bushings on a daily driver would add NVH, or is this not an area where that would happen?
Spherical bushings will add vibration in any suspension component. It’ll come down to your opinion! My personal opinion is the increase in vibration isn’t terrible. Certainly noticeable!
@@GarageFab Thanks! Its a FWD car and Ive already got delrin subframe bushings, poly trans mount to the subframe, and poly engine mount where it bolts to the firewall. With the AC turned on it does have some vibration at idle, but not bad. I just didnt know if the gain from having positive caster and reduction in torque steer would be worth the NVH
Also on upper control arms on a bagged truck with large wheels you usually need to make the uppers 1/2" or so longer to have correct camber when at a low ride height.
It’s too soon to know for sure, but the drop spindles and frame Z should keep my camber in check. A problem I had on a previous build was I didn’t have ENOUGH camber to clear the fender when laying out. I had to remove the drop spindles so that the tops of the wheels would pull in. Time will tell. We’re getting there.
Question. Everything you have showed us in fabrications a 4 link from scratch. Can all of that can be fabricated on the truck while it’s still the tires an not on jack stands?
I don’t know for sure! That would be an interesting challenge. There’s a possibility that you could build and install a complete 4 link system while the leaf springs are still installed. The hard part would be other parts of the project you might want to do like C notches, bag mounts, or cleaning up existing factory brackets on the axle etc.
I really like all your videos I have a question for you though I have recently ordered a air ride kit they gave me two bigger bags and then two smaller bags my question is do the bigger bags go in the front?
What kind of truck do you have? Most often the smaller ones will go in the front. There’s usually not a lot of room on the control arms for air springs so you’re forced to use a smaller bag. Larger bags can lift higher with less pressure which creates a softer ride than a small one. This helps the rear of a truck feel less “trucky” or rough. This isn’t an issue with the small bags in the front though because the weight of the engine softens the ride.
@GarageFab it's a 2000 s10 but I put a 454 in it and the body was switched to a 1940 ford. I also found out my small are almost as strong as the big ones so I do believe I'll be putting them in front.
I struck an arc on aluminum once after cleaning it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and the burning in my lungs after unknowingly breathing a small amount of vapor made me rethink my life.
Realy like your videos. But i Think you have made a mistake. A dangerous one. The original upper control arm design allows for "thin" sleeves because the control arm isnt welded on . But welded in! This way the sleeves won't be pulled oval. With your design, the sleeves are welded on and now the sleeves schould be thicker, much thicker!
I agree 100%.
I have since welded on some gussets that surround the bushing sleeves and weld on to the arm plates.
There will be an update video soon, but until then, I’ll pin this comment in the event someone thinks to copy what I did.
Thank you! And cheers.
@@GarageFab I'm also slightly concerned about how much weld bead you have left in your dimples, since you were scooping out a concavity. But then, I don't know how much (if any) overlap you had between your spacer tubes and the hole diameter in the plates. So it may not be an issue. Just something to think about.
It’s definitely an issue! (Or was) My Design was the holes in the plate were equal to the outside diameter of the tubes. This created essentially a circular open corner joint. But yes, the ball nose burr carved out a lot of that weld. So I decided to weld around the tubes on the inside. It’s not as clean looking but I’m happier with it.
@@GarageFab Oooooh, that sounds "fun" in that little 1/2" gap between the plates...
Haha! Exactly.
Love that you aren't afraid to show the dumb mistakes we all make!! We all need to laugh at ourselves sometimes
Amen to that...
I also like the how you showed your mistakes, but improved on them and kept moving the project further. I'm just getting into fabrication and welding and I'm glad to know even the one's who have been at this longer make mistakes.
Aaron, three things: love the tip of adding weight to the small pieces cut on the chop saw - I will be stealing this; great solution using the router with a burr - never thought of that and another tip I’ll be stealing; and number 3, thanks for the reminder to get up from the toilet to get the blood back into my legs. Cheers!
Haha! My pleasure, Robert. I try to be considerate.
Aaron, here is a tip from an old steam boiler vessel fabricator concerning how to clean up the undercut welds on the Swiss cheese holes. Use a Ridgid pipe reamer, and hand ream the mild steel. As long as the fillet welds are not too hard, you will find this method extremely fast and self-centering. You may even ream the plates before welding in the spacers, thus allowing you to stack dimes on the beveled joint ! ! Love your channel and your style 🤓
Thank you, Rick! I’ll look into it. 🙏
Is that too much load on the bolts on ball joint ( should it pull on the plate and not pull on bolts?
Not sure if I understand your question, Bobby. Wheels generally mount to a hub with a very snug fitting center. This center prevents shear forces on the lugs.
I’m assuming you’re referring to the same principle on the arms.
All I can say for sure is the ball joints don’t fit the factory control arms as tightly as a hub fits in a wheel. The bolts endure all the forces on the factory arms, so I honestly didn’t even think about it when I built mine.
The man, the myth, the legend... Mr. Mankandy himself! hahahah. I screamed out loud when you mentioned me lmao, was not expecting that. Great video and roller coaster ride, kept me glued to the screen!! Excited to see this collab, I think i have an idea who he is... You're killing the YT game! Keep on truckin'
Thank you, my man! I appreciate you more than you know. ❤️
I doubt you know him. He’s a nobody. 😈
Unless you're a professional the road to a sweet ride is paved with mistakes. I like your work keep it up.
I worked at a 70s and older car restoration shop and it's always like that, you'd be surprised what "professionals" are going out there
Skeleton version
I have determined two things from watching your videos. 1, you are without a doubt insane and 2, your videos are very informitave. Heep up the good work!!!!
Thank you, Steve! I’ll take both as a compliment. 😆
this was my first video and by the end of it I had to go and lock my door and hide under the bed!
Loving it all! Keep it up brother.i gotta secret build coming up.
Oooo!!! Tell me tell me tell me!!!!
@GarageFab man my lips are sealed.
Hahaha! Well I can’t wait to see it. Best of luck my friend.
Thanks brother.
ahhh, the joys of learning welding and fabrication... Experiencing similar joys myself....
Yes!! No better source of joy exists! 🙌
@@GarageFab when i got my first welder... was doing an unrelated project building a big fermentation/cooler/box thing from an old freezer and i accidentally nicked a steel condenser line... micro pinhole leak. could occlude it with my finger. had the bright idea to zip a tack on the spot. glad i googled first... same result : phosgene. most def important to look several layers deep into what you're doing safety related and generally unintended consequences as youve done in many vids. much appreciated
@DeagleBingo That one story reminded me of two stories. The first time I read about phosgene was when I unintentionally tried to exterminate all my coworkers.
At the time my employer didn’t have the correct equipment to recover AC refrigerant. I’ve always been a tree hugger so I decided it would be brilliant to vent the refrigerant into the intake of the running engine to burn it off.
The exhaust smelled shockingly strange and so I aborted and did some research.
Whoops.
And the other… In my early days, I was once welding some steel fuel line organizing brackets onto my truck frame. The hardline was already installed. And the truck was just running a few moments before. I nicked the fuel pressure line with the welder and created a 3 foot rainbow of fire. So pretty.
Aaron, I’ve binged every single one of your videos in the last 3 days! I’m glad that TH-cam is finally showcasing your channel. Keep moving forward! (One of my favorite YT catch phrases)!
Are you saying that TH-cam is recommending Garage Fab content? Awesome. We might actually be making some progress. Thank you for your time and eyeballs my friend!
The next time you want an angle on your weld you can take a drill bit and use it like a counter sink and bam dippels are formed
Dude I laughed so hard I cried! Best ever content from a fabricator! Thank you! We are human and make mistakes! You fixed it!
You remind me of a teacher I had in college who was very excited about the subject she taught and that made the class me lectures very fun to be in.
Also, I was yelling at the screen for Swiss cheese. Glad you heard me.
Also, also… ball joints.
I’ve had some teachers like that as well, Victor. I cherish them because that made me separate boredom from stupidity. By that I mean I thought I was dumb. Learning impaired perhaps. But in reality I just wasn’t interested enough.
Thank you Victor!
I was yelling the same thing at my laptop screen. My neighbors know I love Swiss cheese now. Good thing he has all of us to help him make things happen. LOL
😁👍
You are underrated! I'm planning to do suspension on my C10 and you've provided me all the knowledge in decent way! Thank you very much.
Nice! Best of luck on the build! Hit me up if you need guidance. Cheers!
It’s really refreshing that you share your missteps! Was kinda surprised that you didn’t set up a stop on your cold saw for the rounds you cut. The intermission was awesome!!! Oil and welding have never really got along! The “sculpted” holes look great!!! The ball joint angle is now something else to consider, had to watch that segment a couple times!! Love your content, editing, style!!
Thank you Brad! I agree about the saw stop. I should have, I never have, and I’m not sure how I’d even do it on this saw. Is that weird?
I’ll look at it tomorrow and see what I can come up with. My measurements were close but imperfect. A stop certainly would’ve done a better job.
Man I really need a carbide chop saw.
Cool build!
A fixture is worth its weight in gold.
Yes you do! Thank you, Kevin!
I am so glad you addressed the ball joint angle at the end. I was really curious how that worked. Every time I watch your videos I realize how much I don’t know about suspensions.
Tell me about it. I’m still learning myself. There’s a LOT to know. Once you learn how the components work together then you have to learn how physics comes into play. 😩
For sure! The pie cut and jack getting the vehicle to show where the angle needs to be welded, was a perfect smack the forehead moment for me. Cheers.
I enjoy the humor and the info your videos provide…don’t stop, move forward!👍
Imma go until I drop, Steve! Thank you my friend. 🙏
Aaron , I work in a machine shop and we drill hundreds of holes a week we have found through failure of cutting tools the best cutting fluid is water based you mix the cutting fluid from the gallon container with water. And the cutting tool example , end mill, shell mill, drill bit ... Bites through the steel. and does not create smoke and the tool does not slip it cuts .. also when the parts come to me to be welded I just wash them in hot water then sand the edges and we have not had porosity problems. Also we have found the best fluid for taping is Tap Magic the reason i say this is because we would spend hours making a part. Then break a tap off on the last operation I dont know if tap magic is made from the water that comes from old nuclear power plants but you can feel it smoothly cut the threads by hand and it works wonders in machine operation. Man K i like your work ethic you do nice work Pete
Thank you Pete! Do you have a brand name for this cutting solution? I’d love to try it out. All the cutting lubes I’ve used are all oil based. Yes they smoke. But also all the metal pubes that are left on the drill press and floor are oily. I think a water based fluid would be fantastic!
I’ll try it Tap Magic too. Luckily I’ve gotten far more patient with my taps. If they hang up even a little, I back up and try again. Has far too many broken trap experiences.
Cheers mate!
@@GarageFab Tap Magic is the name. It’s good stuff.
when you said "this is why I absolutely love using carbide bits" I chocked on myself and subbed straight away.
Hahaha! Thrilled to have you, Nick!
Came from Fabrication Series!!! Awesome builds man !!! Running a 2001 Camaro Camed full exhaust BBK headers stage two build on the old T-56 from Texas drivetrain performance. Just need some slicks and a rear end 😂 before I blow the old 10 bolt apart hahah
That TFS guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about. 😂
Sounds like a bucket of giggles! Sploding the rear end seems like it might be a good time too!
Thank you my friend. 🙏
Great video as always and my boy Jake is the man can't wait to see what's next on this build
Me neither! The sooner I see the next mod, the sooner it’s finished and I can start on my truck. 😬
@@GarageFab hell yeah 👍
Another great video , glad you show things that may not go to plan first go that’s my world reality .
Appreciate the technical and humour.
True reality TV. Thank you, Keith!
it's not about how creative and well craftsman you are, I always come back to enjoy your side jokes :)
Haha! If it’s not fun I wouldn’t come back either. Thank you my friend.
The vice grips on a cut off saw trick was worth the price of subscription!
Haha! Thrilled to have you Rick. See you in the next!
Very nice Dae and I really appreciate your videos. We are building a 1952 Chevy 3100 and you have given us some really good ideas. Thanks again and keep those videos coming.
Excellent. A very very cool project. Definitely one of my favorites. Best of luck on the build, Ray!
Great editing and also excellent content. Your first cut to black saying the video was over definitely got me I had to double check the video length. Your breakdown of how things work and why you did what you did are always good to hear for anyone else that may be on their own similar journey. Keep it up.
Haha! How could I constantly preach to “Keep Moving Forward” and then quit a video? Thank you Coty! You’re always appreciated.
Learned more in five minutes from you than I have in 2 hours of research! You’re a bad ass, thanks so much for sharing this!
You know, I can't figure out subscriptions for videos. Your videos are outstanding. I watch a lot of fab videos and yours are some of the most helpful, clear, and best made. You deserve more subscribers!!! Go figure.
Subscriptions don’t mean what they used to. Once upon a time, you’d subscribe to a channel you wanted to see more from and TH-cam would let you know when they released new videos. That stopped for some reason and they added a bell 🔔 to request TH-cam to notify you when new content was released. It will indeed send you a notification, but often that notification is the only way of accessing that video. Instead they promote videos they think you’ll enjoy more. Very strange system.
Regardless! Thank you my friend. I appreciate your time, eyeballs, and kind words. Cheers!
And every time I see it, FREAK CHECK!
Again. I love what you do for the community! keep it up
Haha! Thank you my friend.
16:37 I find using a laser level helps me align cuts over uneven parts, trimming curved bumpers, cutting fenders ect. Just a cheap dewalt one with horizontal and vertical lines and a magnetic mount on a stand….
Brilliant. I was shopping for one a couple weeks ago, but got discouraged by the price. (I was looking for a 3 plane unit)
I’ll need it on the next frame build starting from scratch so I’ll have to revisit soon.
Thank You Sir! I'm a lifted truck kinda guy, but fab is fab. I dig it.
To remove the metal splinters from running a carbide burr, use WD40 to flush your arms, spray down with low pressure shop air, then wash as normal. I prefer old school aloe and lanolin cleaner, but dealer's choice. SLS and SLA are bad for your skin. The WD40 is just a nice, cheap low viscosity organic oil. I get the gallon jugs and put it in spray bottles in my shop. Those aerosol bottle are convenient but stupid expensive for the same volume of product. Reusable spray bottles are nice that use bulk WD40 and compressed air. When they run empty, you just refill them and re-pressurize it with shop air. Buy-in on thos is expensive though.
Dude! I go through so much WD! This comment was worth its weight it Gold.
(That saying doesn’t work for comments does it? 🤔) I will definitely be doing this soon. 👏
Hello Hello From Victoria Canada!!! That was the best episode I've seen you do so far on your channel! Even though I am fairly new to your fab community, I have learned so much from each different episode its amazing. I really wish I had you for a metal/mechanics shop teacher in high school, because my life might have gone a different direction. You demonstrated to all the new fab guys or gals watching you, that there are a lot of pro modder friendly tools like using the router. Like you opted for the dimple die look to finish the welds, "That is what I was yelling for my choice at the laptop when you asked what would we do", but there are so many different ways you could have made the flat plate surface pop with engraved designs. There aren't many fabricator guys or gals that think of using tools made for woodworking, when they have to make something custom on their rides or for their shops. If you use a rounded or a fine tip die bit in a router you could have engraved lettering, or some incredible decorative scroll designs like tribal tattoos or because it is your sweetie's ride, she might have liked a swirling scrolling vine design. You can also use a router table to mount a die grinder and do the most awesome edges rounded, chamfered, beveled or an even more detailed decorative edge done with two die profiles to really go making custom one off stuff. A table saw with a 10" metal cutting chop saw wheel makes long plate cuts a breeze or raise the disc just enough to scribe a long plate for bending, as long as the arbor diameter matches you can even mount a 12" or 14" disc if there is clearance for even cleaner straight cuts. Sorry for getting to into the tool thing, but I am in both worlds metal and wood so I get passionate about my tools. Keep up the awesome content and I can't wait to see more on your channel and see where your future episodes will take us all. I don't know if you get to read all your many comments, but I hope you and all those near or dear to you, stay safe, have good health, have good luck and find as much happiness as you can possibly enjoy. (All your TH-cam community included)
🤘😁👍
I’m at that point where I’ve binged all your videos and now have to wait! What a bummer . Great channel man
Haha! Thank you for your time and eyeballs my friend! I’m back in the video kitchen as we speak. See you soon!
That was magnificent, and yes, I look ridiculous. Thanks again Mate. Geoff.
Haha! Thank you, Geoff. Have a great week!
I appreciate you for what you do. So freaking entertaining with you humor. The things you are doing like these control arms are what I need to do next on my build so your videos help me tremendously cuz I sit here contemplating how to do my next step. So thank you thank you thank you
My pleasure Kevin. Lemme now how things go!
Great video. As always your explanations about your reasons for doing all parts to your process are put in the simplest way so that all can understand.
But this comment is more focused on your editing. I thought the music was pumped up for this video. Loved it! I was well informed and also jamming to awesome tunes.
Haha! Thank you Jason. I’m finding many folks would prefer no music. 🤔 Music has always been a huge motivating force in my life, so the tunes are here to stay.
Im not a low rider guy but totally enjoy your fab work, small shop processes and cander. Keep moving forward!!!
Thank you for the tip on using visegrips to postpone the launch sequence for smaller pieces being cut off.
Haha!! Well put. My pleasure my friend.
Nice delivery. You have to like this guy.
I do! I really do like this guy! Thank you, Charles. 🙏
love the content man,, much appreciated, lots of learnings from both videos on this project, the main takeaway for me would be to get some bushing sleeves turned from heavy wall pipe or bar stock. I'm going to follow your method to get some Arms made for a frontier.
Yessir! I think the most common inner sleeve is cut from heavy wall DOM tubing. Lemme know how it goes or if you need guidance. You know where to find me!
You’re welcome! Just looking out for a fellow fabricator. I really enjoy your videos and wish you the best of luck with success.
Amazing, thanks for the great content. I see you with TFS and I wish I still lived in Vegas.
Time to move back? Thank you, Sean!
My hubby loves your mannerisms & slapstick sarcasm !
I love him back! Watch out!
Another great video. Almost to 50k👍
Gettin there! It’s been a blast to watch it grow. Like a happy house plant. But With beautiful people instead of leaves.
Thank you my friend! 🙏
When the welds in the spacers didn’t turn out right you could chuck it up in the vise and re drill the holes with the same bit. It will make a smooth bore and you could tig a decorative bead around the surface of the holes to cover up the undercut
I probably should’ve done that. I’m really picky and detail oriented… until it means starting over and then the lazy strikes.
Love the videos! Can't wait to see this girl done!!
Tell me about it, Jonathan! I want nothing more to begin work on my own truck. The anticipation is killing me.
very nice arm ...great result....you are very smart thanks
Thank you, Leonardo! 🙏
Very entertaining, I like your sense of humor.
Great videos and talent. You have the gift of truly explaining a subject with the right wording and visual aid. 👍
Thank you for that Juan! 🙏 Your words are appreciated my friend.
As a retired semi-professional car show build critic, I would have to deduct well over 73 points for welds that are unsculpted on the bottom of any control arms. That's for each unsculpted weld! Sculpt now or regurt later is a very common phase in my community. Thanks for all the tips!
Haha! It will be a mental battle for me until I finally dip them in color.
But! I’m pretty sure I’m not going to touch them. Partially because I’m lazy. And partially because I’m itching to start my own truck so badly that I fantasize about someone breaking into my garage and stealing this truck. I just need it finished. I’ve put enough “extra miles” into this thing. My Wife just wants to drive it again. There will be no Riddler Award attempts with this one.
You and @SuperfastMatt would be unstoppable together. That's my current dream colab.
I’m down! Set it up, I’ll be there!
No idea where that dude even is. 🤔
@@GarageFab I don't know either of you but between his engineering skill but lack of welding skills and your practical skill and welding skills... plus you're both hilarious. It would be awesome. I think he's in LA.
I may have both insulated and complemented both of you...
He’s certainly one of my favorites. Thank you my friend. 🙏
😂really like what you’re producing. Reminds me of back in the day when I was a fabricator at Stage 1 customs. I have fab advice stop using a sharpie marker and switch to blueing the metal and using a scribe the results are worth it. Gives a more precise end result.
And it looks way cooler. 😆 I just got a can recently. Still haven’t used it yet. I purchased it for the projects that require precision. I haven’t had a lot of those recently.
Thank you my friend!
The vice grips tip on the chop saw alone was worth 3 likes
Haha! Thank you my man. It seems to work well. Still kinda sketchy. I imagine it’s a great idea until it’s not.
Good thing you are OK after the welding. NEVER use brake clean before welding. With some types of welding and the shielding gas in contact with brake clean can make Fosgene gas. Extremely deadly nerve agent. Do a little research so you can keep yourself safe.
Also it’s usually a good idea to try and keep all suspension parts as light as possible. This has to do with unstrung weight and slower suspension reaction times with the heavier the parts.
I’m embarrassed it seems everyone knew about this brake clean thing but me. I definitely got the memo this time around. Thank you Ken!
As for the unsprung weight… yup! There’s more weight in the suspension components than there is in the rest of the truck. It won’t perform well when racing. Luckily this truck won’t see an ounce of performance driving. (Except for the shakedown when I test everything out.)
He meant unsprung wieght
The ratio of static car wieght verses the wieght of parts that move in the suspension
Plus the rolling spung wieght is most important
That is the easiest thing to do to go faster.
Lighten wheels and anything that rotates
Your videos are toxic, they're giving me too many ideas in my man cave of a workshop 🤣🤣
Huge props to you and your way of looking/thinking of many different things to make it work.
Stay solid, & Keep movin' forward
I was shocked at first! Toxic?! That’s the opposite of my goal! 😂
Thank you my friend. You are appreciated. There’s no such thing as “too many ideas” as long as you have priorities. Tackling several projects at once will be a total disaster.
@@GarageFab Definitely agree with you there. 💯
Amazing job on the upper A arms, i ran into this same issue on my M2 front end under my 53 chevy. Also note the rack and pinion can limit travel also, it may need to be raised to compensate.
It can! But I’m hoping that since the steering goes up when I Zeed the frame I won’t have to worry about it.
HOWEVER! You just made me say it out loud and suddenly I’m unsure if the drag link will hit the bottom of the engine now. 🤦🏻♂️
Another great show, thank's for posting. I loved it.
5 gallon bucket with TSP (trisodium phosphate) in water tucked away with a lid on it makes an excellent degreaser for weld prep and always nice to have water in a bucket for the occasional shop fire. Makes a good wet sanding additive with dawn to rinse sandpaper buildup, too.
Dang! A do-all bucket! I’ll look into getting one.
I’d rather have a shop fire than wet sand though. 😂
You should have used the carbide bit before welding the bushings on.
Yessir. Hindsight is 20/20. The second arm was much easier.
@@GarageFab 😆😆😆 live and learn. We all have those kinds of brain cramps. You get into that groove and then the brain rushes you through the process. Been there and done that many times.
Awesome job brotha, making me want to get back on my d21 ext cab!!!
Yes! That’s the point! Get it there. Do it now! 🙌
The in then out of the car thing was pretty funny. I did giggle over that one.
Giggle inducing is one of my main goals for the channel. Thank you my friend. 🙏
Man Candy, congrat on 46k sub! I sware you only had ~20k sub the last time you dropped a video.
Dude! Magic is definitely happening. Zero complaints here. Starting out was tough because there was zero reward for all the hard work. Now YouTubin almost seems like a realistic career goal.
Almost. 😂
Thank you, Alex! I appreciate you.
YouTubing hell, you should have your own show on the MotorTrend Channel !!!
Thank you, Rick! That means a lot to me. Not sure I want a producer telling me what to film though. 🤔
Love the message! We all face challenges everyday. We just have to find a solution to make it work!
Yes!! 🙌 The best mindset to have.
I'm guessing that the guest you refer to, is Mr Justin of the Fabrication Series?
I really enjoyed his video of the two of you at his place.
That’s the guy. We have the same footage of the same project so it’ll be a fun challenge to try and make a different video.
Thank you my friend! 🙏
The mill scale coating can piss off the welds also. Clean off anything that might end up into the weld pool.
Love your style, very entertaining as oposed to many guys cranking out "sermon" like material, admonitory and patronising. Also love how you're honest about mistakes and sometimes settling for "sub par" solutions until the natural evolution of one's skillset eventually figures out a better way. As far as the tech content, I'd advise against using the ball nose portion of a burr because it ends up being weaker than a 45°. Or maybe go wild with the ballnose and then add up some nicer weld bead? I think that the added strenght will balance out the weakness of introducing more heat input.
Thank you Juan! That means a lot to me.
I was about to ask why the ball burr would weaken things, but all I had to do was think about it for a moment.
I likely carved a lot of the weld off the ledge that the beads sit on. I think I’m going to go through and weld the opposite side the best I can. They won’t be perfect but they’ll be much better. Much appreciated my friend.
@@GarageFab The router idea blew my mind, then I recalled taht I did something similar (but with a ball end mill on a rotary table) and the looks was amazing but it developed cracks out of taking out most of the reinforcement material, leaving the fusion of the base material and some reinforcement... I guess that sometimes in an effort to take things to the next level we all trade pretty in favor of strong. The ATF as cutting lube would make your life miserable, as you figured out. splatter, undercut, whatnot. Another trick up your sleeve for welds that escalated into headache territory, in this case, would be using ER308L wire as it's way more forgiving and has a lot of pool cleansing additives (not to mention it has about 40% higher tensile strenght module).
Awesome Episode as usual!
Hey Aaron just a tip to help with cutting small round tube on the saw-add some sticky backed emery paper 80 -120 grit to the clamp plates or use some right angle with same on inside of he angles to grip the pipe or round bar. Prevents it rolling in the jaws.
Nice! Thank you, Michael.
Nice attention to detail, beautiful craftsmanship
Great content!! Love it!! The new sign was such a cool tie in to the slow down make sure both control arms face the correct direction and a remake twist on keep moving forward. Multilevel chess game producing parts, content and dry humor all at the same time. The carbide bit in the router is such a great idea, haven't I seen you use that before? The cardboard from the car split shot just appeals so much to my inner middle schooler. That stuff never gets old!
Haha! Editing. If it’s not fun it’s boring. Thank you Michael! I always appreciate your time. Yes! I use the router often. It’s one of my favorite tools. It makes fancy looking work much easier! See you in the next my friend.
My tundra has bolt on lowers and press in uppers retained with a snap ring. I use a C-clamp style ball joint press in the wheel well and it’s quicker and easier than pulling the 2’ cambered bolt out when the bushings are still good. No need to reset alignment after as only the pivot joint was replaced.
That’ll do!
Nice to see how the jig from your previous video came into use. The Swiss cheese layout is one I haven't seen done before, but I expect you will pull it off. 🇦🇺
You’ll see that jig SEVERAL more times if you stick around. Thank you, Chris!
Great vide. Thanks for how you explain everything in detail and also give tips and tricks to help in the process. Keep it up!
11:12 - was wondering why you were welding on oily unclean parts, you animal. keep 'em coming.
Laziness!! Rushiness! Oh and laziness!
Incredible content! And music too!
Thank you, John! I wrote it myself.
Just kidding.
Always entertaining, always informative. Thanks for another great video sir!
And thank you for always coming back for more Matthew! Always appreciated my friend.
I love your work and delivery. It’s inspirational.
Thank you, Dave! Best compliment ever. You are appreciated my man.
Nice job MK. I've been planning the same holes through the frame look on my build. I have a different approach in mind. I'll let you know if it works out.
Please do! Do you post photos anywhere?
@@GarageFab Not usually. I'll throw you a mention.
Video up.
Amaszzzing knowledge!!!! Going to watch everyone before my next build ⚡️
I sure dig watching you build a fresh suspension, I'm in the planning stages of my Trans Am build and I'm running into informational roadblocks. I have this insane notion to fab some custom uprights like on the trophy trucks so I can position my spindle at the optimal height for my build and retain suspension travel, plus shorten the tie rod mounting point for greater steering angle.
Yes! Do it! Sounds like a fun project. 👏
Looking to make a set of lowers for my 02 Avalanche to get rid of the torsion bars to install coil overs my only concern caster and camber for alignments
I haven’t finished the lower arms yet but I’m installing some alignment cams. Perhaps that would help.
th-cam.com/video/fxRap1HwYVI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ngqxOMNOUR2KHwQF
Typically alignment adjustments are on the opposite arm in a torsion bar setup.
@@GarageFab I it’s a learning curve for me was thinking heavy duty adjustable rod ends. I heard it was make the ride really stiff, but it’ll give me the option to adjust the controller arms for alignment. What are your thoughts on that?
I’ve been told adjustable bar ends shouldn’t be used with forces pushing perpendicular to the threaded shaft. In other words they’re intended for push/pull only. But I’d be a liar if I said I’ve never done it. My rear link bars are often load bearing and adjustable.
I have not, however done that in the front with the weight of the engine on them.
I’d go with the alignment cams as a first choice. It’s easier to adjust anyway. 🤔
You make interesting videos. Your like a regular Joe doing fab work. Like Lee161 said, I hope you used non-chlorinated brake clean because if you didn't then with welding the chorinated brake clean makes Phosgene Gas. Be careful what you clean with.
I was here to post the same! For anyone curious, it's the combination of the chlorinated BC, Argon, and heat. It won't make you sick though - most people are dead before they hit the floor. :/
Wow! Not just the burning of chlorine then! Scarily interesting. 😳
Oh… and yes… non chlorinated, but still likely terrible to breathe in. I’m looking into some water based cutting fluids in hopes chemicals aren’t needed to clean.
Thank you both!
Good recovery! "Dimple die" look turned out even better than "Stack of dimes" look this time 👍
Thank you Craig! If I can come up with some way of using a template with the router, I’ll likely mimic the dimple dies in plate a lot more often. These are great but they’ve obviously (to me) been free-handed.
Thank you, Craig! Hope all is well.
Dimple cuts look like engine valve seats. Last time I welded one in a ford flathead (weld for seat, don’t weld a press fit seat) I used the cheapest eBay valve cutter in a drill and sandpaper superglued to the bottom of an old valve with a valve grinding suction cup and scrap stainless rod that fit… in a drill to cut weld into seat.
That’s one way to do it! Thank you, Kelsey!
Razor sharp steel splinters (or aluminum, for that matter!) are absolutely the best part of using carbide burrs. :D
Absolutely. The joy of my life!
Nice Video as always!!! My 50 has that A-Frame setup with no ball joints. (King pins and screw in trunnions.) I was bummed because You really can't get more caster without the trunnions binding. But when it lays out there is ZERO ball joint bind to worry about. Life is give and take. Keep moving forward!!!
Good fabrication as always but my suggestion to you is get the TIG welder, I got one and man I'm so happy with results.
Thank you! I will eventually. I would only use it for aluminum though. And at some point chromoly roll cages. Otherwise I’m far too impatient and cheap. TIG takes far too long and Argon ain’t cheap!
@@GarageFabwhat welder and plasma cutter do u use in the video if u don’t mind me asking
I subbed because content like this needs way more traffic. Keep sharing.
Thank you my friend. 🙏 Thrilled to have you.
Super cool video. I am considering spherical control arm bushings for my 1999 Volvo s70 T5, they come with different adjustment for positive caster. Do you think spherical control arm bushings on a daily driver would add NVH, or is this not an area where that would happen?
Spherical bushings will add vibration in any suspension component. It’ll come down to your opinion! My personal opinion is the increase in vibration isn’t terrible. Certainly noticeable!
@@GarageFab Thanks! Its a FWD car and Ive already got delrin subframe bushings, poly trans mount to the subframe, and poly engine mount where it bolts to the firewall. With the AC turned on it does have some vibration at idle, but not bad. I just didnt know if the gain from having positive caster and reduction in torque steer would be worth the NVH
Unfortunately I think the only way of knowing for sure is to do it! 😬 Lemme know what you find out!
Great educational channel you have! Thank you for sharing.
50k Subs!! Congrats man!
Thank you, Deke! It’s a huge day. 🙌
Also on upper control arms on a bagged truck with large wheels you usually need to make the uppers 1/2" or so longer to have correct camber when at a low ride height.
It’s too soon to know for sure, but the drop spindles and frame Z should keep my camber in check. A problem I had on a previous build was I didn’t have ENOUGH camber to clear the fender when laying out. I had to remove the drop spindles so that the tops of the wheels would pull in. Time will tell. We’re getting there.
@GarageFab yep I get it. Same issue I was having on a Mazda. Raised the upper arm mounts too much and it made positive camber.
Love your work and the tutorial that always comes with it. Red as I think. Look at me
Thank you, Paul! I appreciate you.
Question. Everything you have showed us in fabrications a 4 link from scratch. Can all of that can be fabricated on the truck while it’s still the tires an not on jack stands?
I don’t know for sure! That would be an interesting challenge. There’s a possibility that you could build and install a complete 4 link system while the leaf springs are still installed. The hard part would be other parts of the project you might want to do like C notches, bag mounts, or cleaning up existing factory brackets on the axle etc.
Oh, man. Love the intermission and the "but" explanation on balljoint angle 😅
Haha! Thank you my man. 🙏
Would it be easier to hold the plates together for drilling duplicate holes by pinning them together with roll pins instead of using vise grips?
Love this channel !!
Thank you John! Love you back.
Awesome videos man, can’t wait to see how your channel grows
So much appreciated, Brian! I can’t wait either. 😆 It’s been a wild ride already.
I really like all your videos I have a question for you though I have recently ordered a air ride kit they gave me two bigger bags and then two smaller bags my question is do the bigger bags go in the front?
What kind of truck do you have? Most often the smaller ones will go in the front. There’s usually not a lot of room on the control arms for air springs so you’re forced to use a smaller bag. Larger bags can lift higher with less pressure which creates a softer ride than a small one. This helps the rear of a truck feel less “trucky” or rough. This isn’t an issue with the small bags in the front though because the weight of the engine softens the ride.
@GarageFab it's a 2000 s10 but I put a 454 in it and the body was switched to a 1940 ford. I also found out my small are almost as strong as the big ones so I do believe I'll be putting them in front.
Thanks for your time and info
I struck an arc on aluminum once after cleaning it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and the burning in my lungs after unknowingly breathing a small amount of vapor made me rethink my life.
And now you sell stocks?!