Nice video. I have found many charging problems are due to old (weak) brush springs. I now replace springs whenever putting in new brushes; very cheap and easy to do!!
I’m doing the same process to remove alternator (with long bolt) but no matter how hard I screw it in - it never pops out. I’m already afraid to break the thread
It is a is a removal tool not just a plain bolt. If you put a normal bolt in there it will hold the rotor in place. You need a rotor removal tool to push the rotor out.
@@HeikosGarage yup, I understand. I actually made it a day ago! I used a piece of a smaller bolt (I cut it), inserted it, and then used a regular one to mimic the same process. It worked out fine. I saw this method in one of the videos on TH-cam on a related theme.
Guten Tag Heiko. I enjoy watching your videos (we have the same airhead) and I learned a lot. On this one I have a question or comment. My battery wasn't charging, the GEN light would not come on when turning on the ignition and flickered above 3000 rpm. I did the tests and figured the alternator was shot. Just installed a refurbished one (Siebenrock from 2 valve boxer/Wunderlich). When I did a continuity test on the old one, it didn't change the reading (1). However, when testing on the slip ri nags of the new one the ohm reading went to 0! Very strange and different from what you and your little handbook said. Anyway, it works now (14.3 V at the battery at 3000rpm). Gruesse aus Detroit. Christopher
The electrical pixies are hard to understand sometimes. Now that you have the parts replaced you can test the old once one more time. Maybe the issue was just a bad connection/ worn brushes?
Nice video. I have found many charging problems are due to old (weak) brush springs. I now replace springs whenever putting in new brushes; very cheap and easy to do!!
Great tip!
I’m doing the same process to remove alternator (with long bolt) but no matter how hard I screw it in - it never pops out. I’m already afraid to break the thread
It is a is a removal tool not just a plain bolt. If you put a normal bolt in there it will hold the rotor in place. You need a rotor removal tool to push the rotor out.
@@HeikosGarage yup, I understand. I actually made it a day ago! I used a piece of a smaller bolt (I cut it), inserted it, and then used a regular one to mimic the same process. It worked out fine. I saw this method in one of the videos on TH-cam on a related theme.
Guten Tag Heiko. I enjoy watching your videos (we have the same airhead) and I learned a lot. On this one I have a question or comment. My battery wasn't charging, the GEN light would not come on when turning on the ignition and flickered above 3000 rpm. I did the tests and figured the alternator was shot. Just installed a refurbished one (Siebenrock from 2 valve boxer/Wunderlich). When I did a continuity test on the old one, it didn't change the reading (1). However, when testing on the slip ri nags of the new one the ohm reading went to 0! Very strange and different from what you and your little handbook said. Anyway, it works now (14.3 V at the battery at 3000rpm). Gruesse aus Detroit. Christopher
The electrical pixies are hard to understand sometimes. Now that you have the parts replaced you can test the old once one more time. Maybe the issue was just a bad connection/ worn brushes?
Check if your multimeter can read small number ohms.