great video !! I'm doing a carbon fiber skinning progect right now and need some advise the car trim I have brought has a factory aluminium skin over it should I skin over it or strip it off before skinning . TIA
For the first time, I bought carbon fiber fabric and epoxy resin. Can I make the spoiler of my car carbon fiber? Please, someone who knows, tell me the simple steps of the work. I have seen a video on TH-cam. Where should I do it? How many times and how many layers should I apply epoxy after gluing the carbon fiber? And my spoiler has color, do I have to remove the color completely or is it enough to sand it so that scratches are created? Thank you for your help
how is the base coat resin different to the later applied resin? (except colour ofc), I have bought a supposedly full set for skinning but there is only one type of resin and hardener
Laminating resin, sanding resin, and gloss resin can be made from the same thing. The brand I use: mix hardner catalyst to laminate, add wax chemical to make it sanding resin, and I add a lot of catalyst and pour the resin hot when it's super thin for gloss coat. Every resin system has their own additives or products. I mix resin by weight with a little cheapy digital scale.
I have yet to try this but I would think you would account for that when cutting your CF, press it down into those spots at the drill out the screw holes once it’s dried.
This (with maybe more then one layer) can also be used to repair cracks in most materials, right? I'm asking because I got a Canadian canoe which is made from plywood and my idea is to repair it with carbon fiber.
Usually when repairing carbon parts you need a few extra layers like you suggest. But the extra epoxy needs to be vacuumed out. Otherwise you do not have that 60:40 carbon to epoxy ratio which is ideal
The epoxy desolves spray glue. The moment you wet the carbon it will come loose and create bubbles where you have tight corners or sharp edges on the part you want to wrap
If youre laying carbon just for appeal then you want a mechanical bond with the part to the resin. My understanding of skinning is using one layer to mold the carbon and then prying it off and enforcing the back for a 100% carbon piece. This process defeats the purpose of using carbon... if you are trying to make a full carbon piece either you want to create a mold OR polish the piece you want to make carbon from 800 grit to say 3000grit to polishing. Add release agents, lay down 1 or 2 layers then pry it off the part and enforce on the inside or back of the part.
Hello... in my opinion i would personally do this differently considering the part you are using it looked very smooth and with some light buffing and release compound you could have made a mould off this part by adding a few layers of carbon fiber and vacuum bag the part and infuse the resin and harder mix and the next day with some preparing of the mold you can same day lay your 1st part off that mould and infuse it for more parts and 80 % lighter or more in the end. I also recommend a spray Adhesive Like a product called Air Tac it takes seconds to apply ready for 1st layer of carbon and tacks well and less material 👌 also if you where not looking to make future parts and this is just 1 time part and only cosmetic you could just do your 1st layer or 2 and vacuum bag then that also means you need these things do that but if someone has a pump and know how to vacuum bag and infusion it much easier faster stronger to.. anyways just my thoughts. Thank you .
Hi, I have a diffuser that I want to skin, its already painted black so I'm thinking I could prep and lay the carbon straight over that.. am I correct?
@@justinbest9429 I'm wondering the same. I have a front splitter to skin and I'm a little nervous about the "one shot" attempt at laying onto the base tack. As my splitter is already CF (albeit damaged) I'm not worried about colour showing through, so wondering if I could just hold my carbon in place with tape/clamps and go straight to resin...
The problem with not having a proper base is in direct sunlight the carbon layer can bubble up. Not sure how well anything other then resin will hold up
It hurts my eyes watching this guy flat this component down using his fingers. A rubbing down block or the palm.of your hand will produce a far flatter effect. I have a diffuser I want to skin. The laying of the cabon fibre is very daunting.
@@naspirit1551 I might just have to find someone I can trust to do that job, my next issue is, I did some measuring last night and my diffuser is bigger than I thought, I need to find some bigger impregnated carbon cloth otherwise I'm going to have joints everywhere 😑
Getting straight cuts that don't frey is no problem, use fiberglass tissue paper ,spray adhiesve on the carbon lay down the tissue press down let it dry then cut straight
Agree but i also will argue i have a 370z, i spent 1300usd for a carbon hood with poor fitment but a reputable company.... and it was heavier then my OEM hood LOL so the fact that someone could skin there OEM hood and have OEM fitment is a +1 plus people would never know because it's not a wrap :P so i sold the hood and i'm going to skin my OEM :)
Make a tutorial how to cut the edges to nicely wrap around corners
You forget the please....
Scissors
and sand paper once cured
what do you do when thr item is bigger then the roll? overlay it ?
great video !!
I'm doing a carbon fiber skinning progect right now and need some advise
the car trim I have brought has a factory aluminium skin over it should I skin over it or strip it off before skinning .
TIA
What if you want to be able to remove the original piece after doing several layers for the purpose of actually saving weight
Thanks for posting this! Well done!
For the first time, I bought carbon fiber fabric and epoxy resin. Can I make the spoiler of my car carbon fiber? Please, someone who knows, tell me the simple steps of the work. I have seen a video on TH-cam. Where should I do it? How many times and how many layers should I apply epoxy after gluing the carbon fiber? And my spoiler has color, do I have to remove the color completely or is it enough to sand it so that scratches are created? Thank you for your help
how is the base coat resin different to the later applied resin? (except colour ofc), I have bought a supposedly full set for skinning but there is only one type of resin and hardener
Did you find an answer I have the same question
Laminating resin, sanding resin, and gloss resin can be made from the same thing. The brand I use: mix hardner catalyst to laminate, add wax chemical to make it sanding resin, and I add a lot of catalyst and pour the resin hot when it's super thin for gloss coat. Every resin system has their own additives or products. I mix resin by weight with a little cheapy digital scale.
What did you do with the taped back edges?
Cut them like it says in the video
Fantastic presentation
What did you use for the brush to not getting hard after ung coat..?i hope u can help me..thank you
If only it was as easy as the video
What they dont tell you is
That you will mess it up more times then not
skill issue. the video states to be meticulous.... not that hard.
How does none handle parts that have countersunk recess for screws when skinning?
I have yet to try this but I would think you would account for that when cutting your CF, press it down into those spots at the drill out the screw holes once it’s dried.
isn't it applicable to use avacuume bag on that work material?
That's have different process... This is skinning...
Would you need to remove the fake leather and foam on a center console arm rest to wrap that? Or do you wrap over it?
Remove everything to skin it. Leave it there if making a mold.
What would be the added thickness to a skinned part using this process?
This (with maybe more then one layer) can also be used to repair cracks in most materials, right? I'm asking because I got a Canadian canoe which is made from plywood and my idea is to repair it with carbon fiber.
Usually when repairing carbon parts you need a few extra layers like you suggest. But the extra epoxy needs to be vacuumed out. Otherwise you do not have that 60:40 carbon to epoxy ratio which is ideal
Very well explained 👏
Can I carbon skin over faux leather? The part I’m gonna do it’s not spongy at all. Might be able to rip the leather off
sounds fine. how'd it go?
great guide. spot on
No clear coat ?
Where can I buy the material?
could you use a spray on glue instead of that black stuff please
The epoxy desolves spray glue. The moment you wet the carbon it will come loose and create bubbles where you have tight corners or sharp edges on the part you want to wrap
Perfect for my classic🔥
Bit confued with what resins etc. i have GRP base to skin with CarbonFibre. do I use epoxy / VE RESIN or both?
Epoxy bro.....
I saw some small little pockets on the finish.
How BMW skin parts in what the call open pore carbon fiber? Is it possible to DIY?
could you use this for foam wings
Did you use clear coat at the end of the process? Isn’t 120 grit sand paper rough for this process??
If youre laying carbon just for appeal then you want a mechanical bond with the part to the resin. My understanding of skinning is using one layer to mold the carbon and then prying it off and enforcing the back for a 100% carbon piece. This process defeats the purpose of using carbon... if you are trying to make a full carbon piece either you want to create a mold OR polish the piece you want to make carbon from 800 grit to say 3000grit to polishing. Add release agents, lay down 1 or 2 layers then pry it off the part and enforce on the inside or back of the part.
Ware can I buy this kit
nice and clear.. 🔥🔥
Where do you get the kit
ebay sells different varieties
Hello... in my opinion i would personally do this differently considering the part you are using it looked very smooth and with some light buffing and release compound you could have made a mould off this part by adding a few layers of carbon fiber and vacuum bag the part and infuse the resin and harder mix and the next day with some preparing of the mold you can same day lay your 1st part off that mould and infuse it for more parts and 80 % lighter or more in the end. I also recommend a spray Adhesive Like a product called Air Tac it takes seconds to apply ready for 1st layer of carbon and tacks well and less material 👌 also if you where not looking to make future parts and this is just 1 time part and only cosmetic you could just do your 1st layer or 2 and vacuum bag then that also means you need these things do that but if someone has a pump and know how to vacuum bag and infusion it much easier faster stronger to.. anyways just my thoughts. Thank you .
Hi, I have a diffuser that I want to skin, its already painted black so I'm thinking I could prep and lay the carbon straight over that.. am I correct?
@@justinbest9429 I'm wondering the same. I have a front splitter to skin and I'm a little nervous about the "one shot" attempt at laying onto the base tack. As my splitter is already CF (albeit damaged) I'm not worried about colour showing through, so wondering if I could just hold my carbon in place with tape/clamps and go straight to resin...
The problem with not having a proper base is in direct sunlight the carbon layer can bubble up. Not sure how well anything other then resin will hold up
@@justinbest9429 no
Definitely can, I've already done it, prepped the diffuser, one simple coat of clear resin over the top and carbon straight over that. Super easy 👌🏻
You guys didn’t even show the final product up close
Stop saying that 200 g is extremely light. It is standard weight. Not even 80 g is extremely light.
So you left the part taped under ? Lol
i personally think its way too much resin. from afar its too dark to even see the weave and up close its sooo shiny.
Why your just adding weight
disable tools plaese
🤗🤗
It hurts my eyes watching this guy flat this component down using his fingers. A rubbing down block or the palm.of your hand will produce a far flatter effect. I have a diffuser I want to skin. The laying of the cabon fibre is very daunting.
its really not that hard if you have a second set of hands to hold the fabric up for you as you lay it down. Don't be afraid.
@@naspirit1551 I might just have to find someone I can trust to do that job, my next issue is, I did some measuring last night and my diffuser is bigger than I thought, I need to find some bigger impregnated carbon cloth otherwise I'm going to have joints everywhere 😑
And don't forget: after wiping down the part with alcohol wipes, touch it with bare hands as much as possible😂
Getting straight cuts that don't frey is no problem, use fiberglass tissue paper ,spray adhiesve on the carbon lay down the tissue press down let it dry then cut straight
@@darringrey4329no just pull out a single strand of carbon out the cloth then you have a straight line to follow and cut
A week to cover a part is ridiculous
Hi
THE FAST&FAKE WAY OF DOING CARBON FIBER
Agree but i also will argue i have a 370z, i spent 1300usd for a carbon hood with poor fitment but a reputable company.... and it was heavier then my OEM hood LOL so the fact that someone could skin there OEM hood and have OEM fitment is a +1 plus people would never know because it's not a wrap :P
so i sold the hood and i'm going to skin my OEM :)
@@andrewparsons2178 Good point!
Just dont do this
Why ?
What extra steps are required to use a matte clear coat?