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The instructional quality of this video may be one of the best I have ever seen. I stumbled upon this after looking for some more videos about carbon fiber vinyl wrap and this makes real CF look doable if I just have the time and patience and this video.
really appreciate the time and effort making the video! this is the way "how to" or diy videos should be made. informative, not repetitive, still gives the viewer their option of how they want their application to be, and effective. thanks again! Cheers!
One thing I wanted to point out is when you went to apply the second coat of resin you said to make sure that it's tacky still and not set up all the way. Then you did the unthinkable!!! You touched the part. LoL, I painted cars for a very long time and people would walk in the booth and say wow that looks wet then stick their finger in it always right in the middle of a panel too! It looks wet because it is wet! Always touch the tape area were resin got brushed onto or any drips that came off it just to make sure its not still wet due to mixing wrong or your clock is wrong and its only been 20 minutes not 3 hours or bad resin sometimes. Anything can happen, just use caution when you touch the part because you can damage the weave then your screwd pretty much. Everything else was really rad to see take shape and i dig the video for sure! Thanks for sharing it with us!
Im not trying to say do this or do that at all so dont take it wrong. Simply making suggestions that could assist you if you do another project like this. At the end when you polished it with the power ball, obviously that is one way that works. Another that is very good just to have for small parts like this or scratches in the actual car is those headlight repair kits. The one that has the sand paper and compound and the foam and wool pads that can be changed out on your drill. Its just like having a full size professional buffer but in a 3 inch version of one. Works killer for things like this and they are pretty cheap. I have done paint and auto body and custom work for 25 years now and just wanted to give a tip is all!
@@firstnamelastnameisallowed7943 yep i just ruined a paintjob on my airplane that took me a week to make perfect. Lol didn't wait for the 3rd clear coat to dry because I thought I used enough activator. Fucking fat fingerprint right on the hull. Deep as shit too. I wet sanded but it got all the way through every layer of clear evenndown to the gel coat. Fucking pissed. Funny because I have been painting for a long time and never made a mistake like that.
@@EmbraceMaking I don't hit like on any videos cause TH-cam creates a folder of videos I hit like on in my playlist and I don't like that, nothing personal but yes great video keep it up!
After 800 wet instead off polishing clear all parts with automotive clear coat you will have better uv resistance and gloss no polishing needed you can also lightly sand again next day or 8 hours later and re clear the results will be speechless 😉👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
@@EmbraceMaking hi.. I'm currently working on carbon fiber skinning project. I would like to ask for suggestion what is the best adhesive or base coat for laying down carbon fiber cloth on surface material ABS, PU, & plastic. Thanks
I use the automotive clear as well...final finish FAR better than that polished surface, and like stated...UV resistant. Carbon will take on a yellowish hue unless you add some real UV resistance. You can definitely wet sand to like 1000 grit region and clear will fill in all the scratches and it'll shine like nobodies bitness.
With epoxy resin you can eliminate the packing tape step covering the part as it will not eat the 3D printed part. If the part was any type of polystyrene based material then polyester resin would eat it. Just FYI for you and your viewers. Another thing you can do it use a hair dryer to apply a bit of heat, not too much, to your final coat of resin. This will lower the viscosity and make it flow for a better finish and help to reduce the number of times you have to repeat this step. Great video and workmanship!
@@1SmokedTurkey1 As long as the total laminate is no more than 1/8th inch (3mm) you can lay it up all together, one layer at a time so as to get proper wet out between layers. I wouldn't wait until each layer is tack free since the curing process is well started and it will lead to a weaker laminate.
@@GrantOakes Thanks for the reply! I meant to wait until the layer is just tacky enough so that when applying the next layer of CF cloth it has something to stick to (like the function of the spray adhesive at the beginning of the video) or would that still weaken the part?
@@1SmokedTurkey1 I understood your thought process, but there's no need to wait. Just try to keep the entire layup under 1/8th inch, otherwise you might build up too much exothermic heat and have outgassing between the layers.
The flat spot on the front that I focused on is very flat and glossy. The other areas that are covered by other components that I did not put any work into, remain wavy. This method is a very time consuming process but the advantage is that it does not require any investment into equipment. No vacuum pumps/bags/etc, or autoclave.
looks good man, such a long process but very rewarding, i like to watch these videos to look for alternate methods that might benefit me, only thing i do differently is spray the part black so you cant see anything between the weaves, also instead of doing multiple rounds of sanding then laying epoxy, just lay a few coats to save time and sanding, added bonus is the chemical bond is stronger than a mechanical bond
You forgot one important thing: epoxy resin deteriorate in UV, sunlight. You should have buffed upto 1200 grid and then sprayed a polyurethane paint. Now you did a lot of work in vane as the product will dull in approx. 2 years outside and even slowly start to turn yellow-ish and soft. I have built a lot of carbon items for sailing yachts and always have had to apply uv filtering coats to them. Even to for instance carbon grab handles placed either side of the 'stairs' at the entrance to go down below. Not in sunlight all the time, as opposed to your light panels for your car. Another piece of advice is to always degrease your product between cured layers before you start sanding. You will sand greasy fingerprints and even a kind of greasy film that forms on top of a cured layer of many brands of epoxy after it has set or cured after some time. If you don't you will sand the grease right down into the product's skin. With a bigger chance of de-lamination. All the best, keep on fabricating nice stuff ! Lucas
Thanks for the tips Lucas! If I remember correctly, the resin I used says it is non yellowing UV resistant. Wouldn't hurt to have an extra layer of protection though. It's been a few years since I did this and honestly they look as good as new. I don't park the car outside so that may also help!
Great suggestion, if doing it again I would use some kind of clear coat or gel coat for best results. However, this has been holding up fine for years now luckily!
I believe it was less sticky and messy than resin so if you mess up the placement you can likely pull it off and reposition without disturbing the weave
So best way to remove bubbles from resin top coat and such would be heating it prior to use fondue style? Cup in pot with hot water in pot. You think that's the way to go? Doing skinning on interior panels for my car
nice video overall. You have to be very careful using the blue painters tape on edges to prevent fraying - yes that prevents fraying but it also prevents the fibers from moving at the edges which is what needs to happen to conform to surfaces. The less flat the surface, the more this matters.
I was waiting for a vacuum and a bag lol nice method tho, I've seen your other videos and I'm definitely subscribing. Gonna make some of these in the future. Good job, sir!
I always had issues using spray adhesive.. when I'd apply the epoxy to the carbon fiber, the carbon fiber would often lose its bond with the piece I'm skinning. the best method I've found that works around this, and also possibly more thoroughly saturates your cloth, is to brush a light layer of epoxy on the part and set it under a heat lamp for about an hour (depending on dry time of your epoxy). The epoxy at this point would be tacky but not completely dry and the carbon fiber cloth will stick similarly to spray adhesive, but additional epoxy will not cause the cloth to come loose from the part...
Hi Cory, thanks for watching! That is definitely an option and the method I used a few years ago when making a carbon fiber spoiler. I tried the spray adhesive this time because it was quicker and didn't have to wait for the resin to get tacky. However, your method will work great too!
Oh.. and one other thing I like to do is use an automotive clearcoat as a final coat after the epoxy dries because it tends to look really glossy and blocks UV rays to prevent any yellowing. Your part looks good tho =]
if I'm just doing overlays like this I will spray a mist of gel coat over it instead of using spray adhesive. When the gel coat tacks I add the carbon and let it semi dry into the carbon. Hold down pretty dang good!
you don't wetsand to "keep the part clean". you're wetsanding for lubrication. whatever dust that comes off of wetsanding can still be on the part while sanding because it is essentially the same grit as the sandpaper you're using. just make sure to clean off all dust before moving up to the next grit because you don't want to wetsand a finer grit when there's still rougher grit on the part. also, don't use water to clean your part before the next layer of resin. you will get moisture trapped and that can cause resin to become cloudy.
Hello Sir. Thanks for sharing this video. May I know the materials, tools and equipment you use in this video? Although you said it in the beginning but I want to know the brand of it because I am going to search for it in the internet to see the specs of it. Because their are things that we call it differently. Sometimes we use different term. Thanks.
Great video man. You explained things pretty well for almost anyone to follow. I have a car stereo bezel that I would love to wrap in CF but I'm hesitant because of the holes. For example the HVAC, power button, stereo and the cigarette lighter. I'm assuming I would have to pre-cut those out into the fiber before I lay it down with resin?
Thanks for the kind words! Yes, I would cut the holes and use some adhesive to try and wrap the cloth to the back of the bezel and hold it in place while you set it with resin.
I would scuff it the first coat with red scotch brite and not risk sanding the first few coats untill u get at least 6 coats I'd say then cut it with 320 and then I clearcoat it for mine...
Thanks for the awesome tutorial. I BELIEVE I will be able to tackle a project I have. I have a flimsy plastic plenum from a supercharger kit. The plenum "balloons" under boost. If I wrap it in 2x2 twill, will it make it more rigid?
Not sure what spray glue he's using but I've had the same problem. I usually tape the excess back as well on the bottom to keep it from lifting. But I stopped using glue as a base all together. I mix a resin as a base coat then wait a few hours to get nice and tacky. I usually apply about 3 coats over it before I even touch it with sand paper. Hair dryer to heat each layer up to help the resin level properly.
Question about the hole in your part. Do you cut this out before applying resin, or poke a hole through after? Do you find this is easier than drilling after the fact?
I'm not a fan of exposed carbon fiber but becasue you used PLA(not a good idea at all), you'll need the carbon fiber to keep it from warping in the sun or from the heat of the light, eventually it will deteriorate being exposed outside. You should really look into PETG. It's higher temp like ABS, but it's super strong(I mean super strong, layer adhesion is a non issue) and prints more like pla. Also, that resin is not likely to do well in the sun in the future, instead of doing the final polish, you should have sprays a UV resistant clear.
Josh Bishop thanks for the comment josh! I agree pla is a poor choice for something like this, which is exactly why I wrapped it in carbon fibre. This will give it some structure and it should keep its shape under the heat. I've never printed with petg but I use it all the time for vacuum forming my custom headlight lenses, it's great stuff. I'll buy a roll and give it a shot!
Also is there a way to make the carbon fiber look matte? I want a dry carbon look instead of the usual glossy look. Was thinking a matte top coat but if you know a better way....
Very good work and a inexpensive way to get great results. That really looks like it would fin into a older Fiero also. Are you willing to share the CAD file?
Do the resins give off fumes? I see everyone doing this in enclosed spaces with no mention of the resins and you are the only person I've seen using gloves for protection from the CF.
@@NicholasWood1 with all due respect, I don't think a respirator is a substitution for ventilation. The only substitute for ventilation would be a self contained breathing apparatus (SCBA). But I'm not entirely sure. It may depend on whether the pollutant is a particulate or a gas. Particulates can be filtered, gasses cannot. If this process is gassing off the fumes, which they likely are, ventilation is a must. Again, I say this with all due respect. Its based on information I learned in an OSHA approved confined spaces class I had to take as part of my apprenticeship many years ago (mid '90s), so I might be misremembering a fact or 2. If I am, I hope I error on the side of caution.... like particulates would be anything from dust to mist...
What's the reason for sanding after 24 hours? The part looks shiny and I'm wondering if you could leave it to that or sand anyway and then use clear coat?
It was 3M spray adhesive.. it's been a while since I made this video so I don't remember the exact part number but it was a black can with some red/white writing and graphics if I recall correctly
Some company makes a UV resistant resin ( right?) which would be good for a final coat ( no? ) Can you provide a list of supplies needed to get a project like this done and where to find , say the light carbon cloth? I know where to buy sandpaper.... does West System resin work for this?
So this is real carbon fiber that'll need like a clear coat to prevent it from yellowing? I'm just trying to ask cause someone is selling some carbon pieces that he says he skinned. Just trying to make sure. Thanks!
Some resins have UV protective properties... others don't. If the resin isn't UV resistant, it would be a good idea to spray with a UV protective clear coat to prevent yellowing :)
How hard would it be to carbon fibre rap a old 1974 car? If you just sanded the car back and straightened the panels then sprayed it to primer could you then instead of painting it could you carbon fibre wrap it as the final spray job so to speak ?
Hi Rhino, you could do this in theory but I would be very concerned that the carbon fiber would delaminate over time with heat cycles and body panels flexing. If you want true carbon fiber panels unfortunately you will have to create plugs and do it the right away. If you just want the look, you can always use carbon fiber vinyl and try clear coating it to create a glossy look with depth. Hope that helps!
Could you skin a car hood if you use a uv protective resin? My paint is faded on my hood, and I just want it to look nice, but I hate all the fake carbon vinyl wraps. If so are there any particular resins you like for that type of job? Oh, and great video by the way!
You should be able to, but you would really want to make sure you have a good solid bond between the carbon fiber and the hood... I am thinking it would probably want to delaminate with the changes in temperature and all the flex in a regular hood... would be a challenge!
Don't over sand your part. One of the parts has white showing through on high spots. You can clearly see them at 15:30 and again at 17:46 this is before and after the polishing compound.
I think the white spot on my part was a resin related issue. The stuff I was using had been sitting on the shelf for a very, very long time... but yes, over sanding will create noticeable flaws!
Needs to be epoxy. I would finish the carbon fiber part in a UV protectant clear coat to protect it long term, especially an external part like a gas tank
I think it was just a poor mix of the resin and hardener. I believe it was some resin that didn't get enough hardener and it would not cure properly. Thanks for watching!
A few other tutorials have mentioned that it's not rare to see the through the weave in bright light and recommend you paint the part you're wrapping black first.
@@JasonStapels Yes, you can also use a colored base epoxy like what easy composites offers: easycomposites.co.uk/#!/resin-gel-silicone-adhesive/epoxy-resin/black-epoxy-carbon-fibre-skinning-basecoat.html. This kills two birds since you get the sticky epoxy layer that will prevent the fabric from lifting, and it is colored, so no painting required.
Might be a dumb question buy why does every one brush the first 3 coats? Can you not spray this on? I'm just wondering because I'm interested in getting into this.
Can you paint over the carbon fiber cause I’m trying to make a uav and from my research it says that carbon fiber is a good material to use but the color of the uav isn’t carbon fiber it’s like a type of gray so do you know how I can get that material on top of the carbon fiber or is it just paint
Hi Ricardo, it is personal preference but I found that these sponge brushes produce less bubbles when apply resin. Give both a try and see what you prefer.
Hi, This is a great video. I would love to try it out. But the problem is with the spray adhesive. Am from India and have no clue which spray adhesive to use for carbon fiber. It would be great if you can help me out with it
Hi Nathan, I believe this will increase the strength of the piece, especially if there is a good bond between the epoxy resin and the substrate. However, carbon fiber is known to be brittle. There will be a loss of elasticity, and excessive flexing may cause cracks or de-lamination of the fiber layer to the substrate if there is a weak bond. Thanks!
Looks good but be carefull with that tape under the carbonfiber, their might be a chance of a release occuring due to the fact that tapes like these can be selfreleasing
Thanks Matthieu! I am a subscriber to your channel and I've found your projects to be helpful! So far the tape has had no adverse effect but I will keep a close watch. The good thing is that the carbon fiber is wrapped all the way around and it hooks under the aluminum plate so it cannot pop off.
Embrace Racing that's great! keep me up to date ;-) I sometimes use that kind of tape to avoid epoxy sticking on to something :-) thats why I decided to comment
No problem, will do! I've used packing tape for releasing fiberglass parts before so I thought it would be good for the epoxy resin. I didn't want it to eat my 3D printed part, it takes 7 hours to print one side!
Does brushing the resin on, get it to fully saturate into the carbon fiber cloth? I have done tons of fiberglass fabrication and repair, and my main concern is to get the resin to fully and evenly saturate the cloth weave. If not you can get void areas where there is not enough saturation making the part weak and very brittle. I’ve seen other video’s where the part is bagged and pressurized to force the resin completely into the weave of the fabric. This is still pretty cool, can you color the resin to color match your paint, but still have the weave of the fabric show through? I have tried it with fiberglass, but couldn’t get the look I was trying to achieve. Or can you get carbon fiber cloth in the color you want, and use the clear resin. Thanks for posting, I got a few ideas from your video.
Brushing the resin on is not the best way for full saturation and strength to avoid bubbles or voids as you suggest. This is the cheapest and easiest method for aesthetic parts that do not require great strength. Vacuum bagging would be the next best option as you suggested but it requires the investment in the vacuum and bags etc. The resin probably could be colored but it is not something I have experimented with before!
I found in some cases it helped stick down certain parts of the fabric faster to get working... but eventually the epoxy gets in there and saturates it anyways.
I’m having same trouble if spray glue first then the base resin don’t stick properly. Or resin base first then it’s hard to keep the edges from fraying
Hi Jacob, the initial sanding before applying the resin is to help bond the layers. The polishing is mostly for looks. I suppose some could make the argument that the final sanding could help reduce locations of stress concentration due to surface irregularities, but your application likely isn't that technical?
I don't see why it wouldn't work! I believe prepreg will need a vacuum bag and oven... you will get better results with it but it requires more expensive equipment.
Hi mate would you be down to make a bangle bracelet about 1-1.5 cm or half an inch for me? Also if yes can you give me an estimate for the charge? Thank you
if I wanted to make anything big like a sport car body, could I use only one layer, or should I use multiple layers? and how to have a smooth finish to be painted like a metal sheet?
Nice video, I am learning a lot about the process. I was wondering what it would look like if you vacuum bagged the part, with peel ply? (since the part is small) I guess it's a trade off on work, but would this help with the finish at all? thanks
Thanks for watching! It would probably look better if I vacuum bagged it, but as I mentioned, it was a trade off with the equipment investment. Vacuum bagged parts typically look better as long as the mold underneath is nice and smooth.
if I am going to be doing this process to a certain section on a fiberglass bumper that will eventually be prepped and painted (those parts taped off until clear coat) at by a shop, should I be stopping before the polishing step? Thanks
Hi Conor, I'm not much of a paint guy but I would imagine it won't need to be polished. Primer won't be able to fill a really rough surface so it has to be reasonably smooth. The primer and paint and clear coat will likely not get the polish work done. Best thing to do is ask your paint guy what he expects when you deliver the car!
Should be the exact same Adrian. I use the tape as a precaution to protect the plastic from any sort of reaction with the resin. Don't want it to melt!
Yes you should be able to. Just make sure your resin is compatible with the foam. Some will eat the foam and your foam mold will be ruined. If you apply plastic tape over the foam it can protect it. Thanks for watching!
Depending on the type of weave you use for your carbon fiber, some are looser than others. The weave allows the cloth to conform to complex geometries (within reason) to achieve the desired shape!
Thanks for the great video. Looking for the epoxy + hardener you used, from both Amazon and System Three. They only seem to be sold in light/medium amber color? Is this what you used in this video?
Looking for the materials I used? As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you):
System Three Epoxy Kit:
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The instructional quality of this video may be one of the best I have ever seen. I stumbled upon this after looking for some more videos about carbon fiber vinyl wrap and this makes real CF look doable if I just have the time and patience and this video.
Wow, thanks! Glad you enjoyed it, give it a try!
really appreciate the time and effort making the video! this is the way "how to" or diy videos should be made. informative, not repetitive, still gives the viewer their option of how they want their application to be, and effective. thanks again! Cheers!
Thanks for the kind words Gary! I appreciate it, and thanks for watching!
Omg so much work. I have a new appreciation for carbon fiber parts.
Yes, probably why some cost so much!
I was looking into how to lay carbon fiber fabric and this video is well made you deserve a sub.... So there you go
Thanks so much! Glad you found the video useful :)
One thing I wanted to point out is when you went to apply the second coat of resin you said to make sure that it's tacky still and not set up all the way. Then you did the unthinkable!!! You touched the part. LoL, I painted cars for a very long time and people would walk in the booth and say wow that looks wet then stick their finger in it always right in the middle of a panel too! It looks wet because it is wet! Always touch the tape area were resin got brushed onto or any drips that came off it just to make sure its not still wet due to mixing wrong or your clock is wrong and its only been 20 minutes not 3 hours or bad resin sometimes. Anything can happen, just use caution when you touch the part because you can damage the weave then your screwd pretty much. Everything else was really rad to see take shape and i dig the video for sure! Thanks for sharing it with us!
Good suggestion! Next time I could even deliberately get some resin on the tape to do as you suggest.
Im not trying to say do this or do that at all so dont take it wrong. Simply making suggestions that could assist you if you do another project like this. At the end when you polished it with the power ball, obviously that is one way that works. Another that is very good just to have for small parts like this or scratches in the actual car is those headlight repair kits. The one that has the sand paper and compound and the foam and wool pads that can be changed out on your drill. Its just like having a full size professional buffer but in a 3 inch version of one. Works killer for things like this and they are pretty cheap. I have done paint and auto body and custom work for 25 years now and just wanted to give a tip is all!
@@firstnamelastnameisallowed7943 yep i just ruined a paintjob on my airplane that took me a week to make perfect.
Lol didn't wait for the 3rd clear coat to dry because I thought I used enough activator.
Fucking fat fingerprint right on the hull. Deep as shit too.
I wet sanded but it got all the way through every layer of clear evenndown to the gel coat.
Fucking pissed.
Funny because I have been painting for a long time and never made a mistake like that.
Definitely worth putting on some 2k clear! Protection and it looks soo much better.
Yes it is worth doing. I haven't had any issues but my car gets parked in the garage mostly so
This video is AMAZING and very well done! Exactly what I wanted to learn thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Hopefully you left a like to help me out! Thanks!
@@EmbraceMaking I don't hit like on any videos cause TH-cam creates a folder of videos I hit like on in my playlist and I don't like that, nothing personal but yes great video keep it up!
Excellent tutorial
After 800 wet instead off polishing clear all parts with automotive clear coat you will have better uv resistance and gloss no polishing needed you can also lightly sand again next day or 8 hours later and re clear the results will be speechless 😉👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Thanks for the tip!
@@EmbraceMaking hi.. I'm currently working on carbon fiber skinning project. I would like to ask for suggestion what is the best adhesive or base coat for laying down carbon fiber cloth on surface material ABS, PU, & plastic. Thanks
I use the automotive clear as well...final finish FAR better than that polished surface, and like stated...UV resistant. Carbon will take on a yellowish hue unless you add some real UV resistance. You can definitely wet sand to like 1000 grit region and clear will fill in all the scratches and it'll shine like nobodies bitness.
is it possible to use this technique on abs plastic? will the resin melt the plastic?
But isn't the resin basically clear coat enough?
With epoxy resin you can eliminate the packing tape step covering the part as it will not eat the 3D printed part. If the part was any type of polystyrene based material then polyester resin would eat it. Just FYI for you and your viewers. Another thing you can do it use a hair dryer to apply a bit of heat, not too much, to your final coat of resin. This will lower the viscosity and make it flow for a better finish and help to reduce the number of times you have to repeat this step. Great video and workmanship!
Thanks for the post and that bit of information!
Any tips for applying multiple layers of CF cloth? Add another layer once the first one is tacky and so on?
@@1SmokedTurkey1 As long as the total laminate is no more than 1/8th inch (3mm) you can lay it up all together, one layer at a time so as to get proper wet out between layers. I wouldn't wait until each layer is tack free since the curing process is well started and it will lead to a weaker laminate.
@@GrantOakes Thanks for the reply! I meant to wait until the layer is just tacky enough so that when applying the next layer of CF cloth it has something to stick to (like the function of the spray adhesive at the beginning of the video) or would that still weaken the part?
@@1SmokedTurkey1 I understood your thought process, but there's no need to wait. Just try to keep the entire layup under 1/8th inch, otherwise you might build up too much exothermic heat and have outgassing between the layers.
Thank You!
You're welcome!
still wavy and not that glossy. im amazed the finish on the 3d part. all that technology and such a ruff finish.
The flat spot on the front that I focused on is very flat and glossy. The other areas that are covered by other components that I did not put any work into, remain wavy. This method is a very time consuming process but the advantage is that it does not require any investment into equipment. No vacuum pumps/bags/etc, or autoclave.
looks good man, such a long process but very rewarding, i like to watch these videos to look for alternate methods that might benefit me, only thing i do differently is spray the part black so you cant see anything between the weaves, also instead of doing multiple rounds of sanding then laying epoxy, just lay a few coats to save time and sanding, added bonus is the chemical bond is stronger than a mechanical bond
Painting it black would have been a good idea. Thanks for the tip and thanks so much for watching!
You forgot one important thing: epoxy resin deteriorate in UV, sunlight. You should have buffed upto 1200 grid and then sprayed a polyurethane paint. Now you did a lot of work in vane as the product will dull in approx. 2 years outside and even slowly start to turn yellow-ish and soft.
I have built a lot of carbon items for sailing yachts and always have had to apply uv filtering coats to them. Even to for instance carbon grab handles placed either side of the 'stairs' at the entrance to go down below. Not in sunlight all the time, as opposed to your light panels for your car.
Another piece of advice is to always degrease your product between cured layers before you start sanding. You will sand greasy fingerprints and even a kind of greasy film that forms on top of a cured layer of many brands of epoxy after it has set or cured after some time. If you don't you will sand the grease right down into the product's skin. With a bigger chance of de-lamination.
All the best, keep on fabricating nice stuff !
Lucas
Thanks for the tips Lucas! If I remember correctly, the resin I used says it is non yellowing UV resistant. Wouldn't hurt to have an extra layer of protection though. It's been a few years since I did this and honestly they look as good as new. I don't park the car outside so that may also help!
Thanks for a very fine job of editing. Very helpful.
Thanks for watching!
best video ! thnx mate
Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Thanks for watching!
A very informative video, why not use a “ comparable gel coat” as the last coat? Thanks again
Great suggestion, if doing it again I would use some kind of clear coat or gel coat for best results. However, this has been holding up fine for years now luckily!
Do you have any links on the hardware and consumable used? Great video thanks!
good stuff man
Thanks for watching Alfonso!
Fantastic guide, just wondering why the glue instead of an initial layer of resin?
I believe it was less sticky and messy than resin so if you mess up the placement you can likely pull it off and reposition without disturbing the weave
So best way to remove bubbles from resin top coat and such would be heating it prior to use fondue style? Cup in pot with hot water in pot. You think that's the way to go? Doing skinning on interior panels for my car
very useful...thanks bro
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video
You're very welcome!
nice video overall. You have to be very careful using the blue painters tape on edges to prevent fraying - yes that prevents fraying but it also prevents the fibers from moving at the edges which is what needs to happen to conform to surfaces. The less flat the surface, the more this matters.
Good tip, thanks!
I was waiting for a vacuum and a bag lol nice method tho, I've seen your other videos and I'm definitely subscribing. Gonna make some of these in the future. Good job, sir!
Thank you so much Vicente! Glad you enjoy my videos!
I was thinking of trying to do fenders I know it’ll take long but it’ll be a fun project 🥴
Give it a go!
I always had issues using spray adhesive.. when I'd apply the epoxy to the carbon fiber, the carbon fiber would often lose its bond with the piece I'm skinning.
the best method I've found that works around this, and also possibly more thoroughly saturates your cloth, is to brush a light layer of epoxy on the part and set it under a heat lamp for about an hour (depending on dry time of your epoxy). The epoxy at this point would be tacky but not completely dry and the carbon fiber cloth will stick similarly to spray adhesive, but additional epoxy will not cause the cloth to come loose from the part...
Hi Cory, thanks for watching! That is definitely an option and the method I used a few years ago when making a carbon fiber spoiler. I tried the spray adhesive this time because it was quicker and didn't have to wait for the resin to get tacky. However, your method will work great too!
Oh.. and one other thing I like to do is use an automotive clearcoat as a final coat after the epoxy dries because it tends to look really glossy and blocks UV rays to prevent any yellowing. Your part looks good tho =]
if I'm just doing overlays like this I will spray a mist of gel coat over it instead of using spray adhesive. When the gel coat tacks I add the carbon and let it semi dry into the carbon. Hold down pretty dang good!
you don't wetsand to "keep the part clean". you're wetsanding for lubrication. whatever dust that comes off of wetsanding can still be on the part while sanding because it is essentially the same grit as the sandpaper you're using. just make sure to clean off all dust before moving up to the next grit because you don't want to wetsand a finer grit when there's still rougher grit on the part. also, don't use water to clean your part before the next layer of resin. you will get moisture trapped and that can cause resin to become cloudy.
Hello Sir. Thanks for sharing this video. May I know the materials, tools and equipment you use in this video? Although you said it in the beginning but I want to know the brand of it because I am going to search for it in the internet to see the specs of it. Because their are things that we call it differently. Sometimes we use different term. Thanks.
Great video man. You explained things pretty well for almost anyone to follow. I have a car stereo bezel that I would love to wrap in CF but I'm hesitant because of the holes. For example the HVAC, power button, stereo and the cigarette lighter. I'm assuming I would have to pre-cut those out into the fiber before I lay it down with resin?
Thanks for the kind words! Yes, I would cut the holes and use some adhesive to try and wrap the cloth to the back of the bezel and hold it in place while you set it with resin.
@@EmbraceMaking awesome, thanks for taking the time to respond 🙏. I'm actually continuing to binge on that Datsun build right now ✌️😂
This is great! How would one handle deep indentations such as for holding sockets or other hand tools? (Without creating folds)
I would scuff it the first coat with red scotch brite and not risk sanding the first few coats untill u get at least 6 coats I'd say then cut it with 320 and then I clearcoat it for mine...
Good advice, yeah its a bit risky with the first few coats, you have to go light!
Thanks for the awesome tutorial. I BELIEVE I will be able to tackle a project I have. I have a flimsy plastic plenum from a supercharger kit. The plenum "balloons" under boost. If I wrap it in 2x2 twill, will it make it more rigid?
When I tried it that way the first coat of resin instantly released the spray adhesive and the cloth started to lift up.
Not sure what spray glue he's using but I've had the same problem. I usually tape the excess back as well on the bottom to keep it from lifting. But I stopped using glue as a base all together. I mix a resin as a base coat then wait a few hours to get nice and tacky. I usually apply about 3 coats over it before I even touch it with sand paper. Hair dryer to heat each layer up to help the resin level properly.
Sounds like a great alternative if you are having issues with the spray adhesive!
Can you link all the stuff that you used? It would be very helpful. Thanks!
Updated the description, go check it out!
@@EmbraceMaking Thank you so much!!
Do u have a list of the products and materials used ?
COOL!!
Thanks!
Nice
Very nice
Nice video
Thank you for watching!
Thanks in advance
so 5 layers with 2 hrs dry times is that correct or 5 layers with 24 hrs inbertween
Question about the hole in your part. Do you cut this out before applying resin, or poke a hole through after? Do you find this is easier than drilling after the fact?
I did poke a hole through first... made it easier to locate after and then drill a nice clean hole
I'm not a fan of exposed carbon fiber but becasue you used PLA(not a good idea at all), you'll need the carbon fiber to keep it from warping in the sun or from the heat of the light, eventually it will deteriorate being exposed outside. You should really look into PETG. It's higher temp like ABS, but it's super strong(I mean super strong, layer adhesion is a non issue) and prints more like pla.
Also, that resin is not likely to do well in the sun in the future, instead of doing the final polish, you should have sprays a UV resistant clear.
Josh Bishop thanks for the comment josh! I agree pla is a poor choice for something like this, which is exactly why I wrapped it in carbon fibre. This will give it some structure and it should keep its shape under the heat. I've never printed with petg but I use it all the time for vacuum forming my custom headlight lenses, it's great stuff. I'll buy a roll and give it a shot!
Also is there a way to make the carbon fiber look matte? I want a dry carbon look instead of the usual glossy look. Was thinking a matte top coat but if you know a better way....
How does none handle parts that have countersunk recess for screws when skinning?
Can you skin fabric rear seat delete? I see everyone doing plastic but that's it
Very good work and a inexpensive way to get great results.
That really looks like it would fin into a older Fiero also. Are you willing to share the CAD file?
Hi Michael, I'll see if I can find the CAD file and post it up on grabCAD or something
Embrace Racing
Do you make the headlight conversion for the Fiero with the vacuum formed clear acrylic covers.
I’m interested in how you made your final slide with your social media accounts.
Look up "lower thirds adobe after effects" it is based on those principals!
where did you get that carbon fiber? I wanna use it on my front splitter and air dam on 2018 TA 392 Challenger
Thanks for this video... Is it ok to skin up a complete hood??? I would love that for my Mustang
Might be okay with really good prep... but with the heat and cooling cycles I would be concerned with delamination
@@EmbraceMaking that's what I wanted to know, thanks for answering
Do the resins give off fumes? I see everyone doing this in enclosed spaces with no mention of the resins and you are the only person I've seen using gloves for protection from the CF.
I would suggest working in a well ventilated area. Also, resin on your hands is a sticky mess, and carbon fiber cloth will make you itchy!
The resins can smell... I would have some ventilation just to be safe
Embrace Racing Thank you. I appreciate the replies to safety!
You can always get a respirator too if the area you are working in doesn't have the best air circulation.
@@NicholasWood1 with all due respect, I don't think a respirator is a substitution for ventilation. The only substitute for ventilation would be a self contained breathing apparatus (SCBA). But I'm not entirely sure. It may depend on whether the pollutant is a particulate or a gas. Particulates can be filtered, gasses cannot. If this process is gassing off the fumes, which they likely are, ventilation is a must. Again, I say this with all due respect. Its based on information I learned in an OSHA approved confined spaces class I had to take as part of my apprenticeship many years ago (mid '90s), so I might be misremembering a fact or 2. If I am, I hope I error on the side of caution.... like particulates would be anything from dust to mist...
What's the reason for sanding after 24 hours? The part looks shiny and I'm wondering if you could leave it to that or sand anyway and then use clear coat?
I waited the full 24 hours so the resin wouldn't "gum" up while sanding
Brilliant. Thanks. What spray adhesive did you use? Thanks from the UK ❤️
It was 3M spray adhesive.. it's been a while since I made this video so I don't remember the exact part number but it was a black can with some red/white writing and graphics if I recall correctly
@@EmbraceMaking Amazing. Thanks for your help. All the best!
Some company makes a UV resistant resin ( right?) which would be good for a final coat ( no? ) Can you provide a list of supplies needed to get a project like this done and where to find , say the light carbon cloth? I know where to buy sandpaper.... does West System resin work for this?
Embrace Racing would using peel ply eliminate the waves in the resin?
Hummm, this looks defiently achievable, I shall give it a crack on my Ranger
Best of luck if you haven't done it already!
So this is real carbon fiber that'll need like a clear coat to prevent it from yellowing? I'm just trying to ask cause someone is selling some carbon pieces that he says he skinned. Just trying to make sure. Thanks!
Some resins have UV protective properties... others don't. If the resin isn't UV resistant, it would be a good idea to spray with a UV protective clear coat to prevent yellowing :)
How hard would it be to carbon fibre rap a old 1974 car? If you just sanded the car back and straightened the panels then sprayed it to primer could you then instead of painting it could you carbon fibre wrap it as the final spray job so to speak ?
Hi Rhino, you could do this in theory but I would be very concerned that the carbon fiber would delaminate over time with heat cycles and body panels flexing. If you want true carbon fiber panels unfortunately you will have to create plugs and do it the right away. If you just want the look, you can always use carbon fiber vinyl and try clear coating it to create a glossy look with depth. Hope that helps!
Where can I purchase the hardener and resin?
check out easy composites online
Where do you get the wrap and resin?
Could you skin a car hood if you use a uv protective resin? My paint is faded on my hood, and I just want it to look nice, but I hate all the fake carbon vinyl wraps. If so are there any particular resins you like for that type of job? Oh, and great video by the way!
You should be able to, but you would really want to make sure you have a good solid bond between the carbon fiber and the hood... I am thinking it would probably want to delaminate with the changes in temperature and all the flex in a regular hood... would be a challenge!
I use spray adhesive 3M super 77 too like your way. But why when i put first layer of resin. The carbon will goes up. Especially tthe edge.
Because you're using too much resin or to thin of a carbon sheet
For parts that size I just pull up a shop stool to the kitchen sink and wet sand them right in the sink 1/2 full of water.
A good alternative if you don't have a shop sink!
Great video! Can you advise on where to buy the carbon fiber and epoxy?
Check out "easycomposites.com"
Don't over sand your part. One of the parts has white showing through on high spots. You can clearly see them at 15:30 and again at 17:46 this is before and after the polishing compound.
I think the white spot on my part was a resin related issue. The stuff I was using had been sitting on the shelf for a very, very long time... but yes, over sanding will create noticeable flaws!
can you use automotive clear coat instead of epoxy to harden? planning to skin a motorcycle gas tank
Needs to be epoxy. I would finish the carbon fiber part in a UV protectant clear coat to protect it long term, especially an external part like a gas tank
@@EmbraceMaking Copy that thanks
Did you sand the high points too much (edges and center peak) and that's why it's showing white through?
I think it was just a poor mix of the resin and hardener. I believe it was some resin that didn't get enough hardener and it would not cure properly. Thanks for watching!
Embrace Racing Gotcha! Do you think this could withstand engine bay temps?
A few other tutorials have mentioned that it's not rare to see the through the weave in bright light and recommend you paint the part you're wrapping black first.
@@JasonStapels Yes, you can also use a colored base epoxy like what easy composites offers: easycomposites.co.uk/#!/resin-gel-silicone-adhesive/epoxy-resin/black-epoxy-carbon-fibre-skinning-basecoat.html. This kills two birds since you get the sticky epoxy layer that will prevent the fabric from lifting, and it is colored, so no painting required.
Might be a dumb question buy why does every one brush the first 3 coats? Can you not spray this on? I'm just wondering because I'm interested in getting into this.
Brushing is cheap and easy... no real tool investment
Can you paint over the carbon fiber cause I’m trying to make a uav and from my research it says that carbon fiber is a good material to use but the color of the uav isn’t carbon fiber it’s like a type of gray so do you know how I can get that material on top of the carbon fiber or is it just paint
Thanks for the nice video. They solely appear to be sold-out in light/medium amber color?
For what product?
Hey! Tell me please what you use to glue the material ?
just look up 3M spray adhesive!
Hello. Why do you use a sponge instead of hairy brush to apply resin? Thanks
Hi Ricardo, it is personal preference but I found that these sponge brushes produce less bubbles when apply resin. Give both a try and see what you prefer.
What kinda spray adhesive do you use?
Hi,
This is a great video. I would love to try it out.
But the problem is with the spray adhesive. Am from India and have no clue which spray adhesive to use for carbon fiber. It would be great if you can help me out with it
It's just glue in a can honestly Elmer's would work lil
Pretty much any glue should work.... I used spray adhesive because it is convenient for me to find.
Would this increase overall strength of a peice? Would it retain any elasticity or become brittle?
Hi Nathan, I believe this will increase the strength of the piece, especially if there is a good bond between the epoxy resin and the substrate. However, carbon fiber is known to be brittle. There will be a loss of elasticity, and excessive flexing may cause cracks or de-lamination of the fiber layer to the substrate if there is a weak bond. Thanks!
Looks good but be carefull with that tape under the carbonfiber, their might be a chance of a release occuring due to the fact that tapes like these can be selfreleasing
Thanks Matthieu! I am a subscriber to your channel and I've found your projects to be helpful! So far the tape has had no adverse effect but I will keep a close watch. The good thing is that the carbon fiber is wrapped all the way around and it hooks under the aluminum plate so it cannot pop off.
Embrace Racing that's great! keep me up to date ;-) I sometimes use that kind of tape to avoid epoxy sticking on to something :-) thats why I decided to comment
No problem, will do! I've used packing tape for releasing fiberglass parts before so I thought it would be good for the epoxy resin. I didn't want it to eat my 3D printed part, it takes 7 hours to print one side!
Does brushing the resin on, get it to fully saturate into the carbon fiber cloth? I have done tons of fiberglass fabrication and repair, and my main concern is to get the resin to fully and evenly saturate the cloth weave. If not you can get void areas where there is not enough saturation making the part weak and very brittle. I’ve seen other video’s where the part is bagged and pressurized to force the resin completely into the weave of the fabric. This is still pretty cool, can you color the resin to color match your paint, but still have the weave of the fabric show through? I have tried it with fiberglass, but couldn’t get the look I was trying to achieve. Or can you get carbon fiber cloth in the color you want, and use the clear resin. Thanks for posting, I got a few ideas from your video.
Brushing the resin on is not the best way for full saturation and strength to avoid bubbles or voids as you suggest. This is the cheapest and easiest method for aesthetic parts that do not require great strength. Vacuum bagging would be the next best option as you suggested but it requires the investment in the vacuum and bags etc. The resin probably could be colored but it is not something I have experimented with before!
Were to buy this materials?? What the name of its materials.. Hope you reply.. Thanks
The main item is the epoxy resin, check easy composites website, your local composites store or some boat and auto repair shops!
Hi, great work love it!
do u recommend to use adhesive glue (3m 77) for base coat ,rather then the epoxy itself? is it better?
thank you
I found in some cases it helped stick down certain parts of the fabric faster to get working... but eventually the epoxy gets in there and saturates it anyways.
I’m having same trouble if spray glue first then the base resin don’t stick properly. Or resin base first then it’s hard to keep the edges from fraying
the sanding and polishing is purely for aesthetic right? you only need to add a few layers of resin, is that right?
Hi Jacob, the initial sanding before applying the resin is to help bond the layers. The polishing is mostly for looks. I suppose some could make the argument that the final sanding could help reduce locations of stress concentration due to surface irregularities, but your application likely isn't that technical?
Can this be done on the plastic backing of the front seats? And will regular carbon fiber or prepreg be better for precision?
I don't see why it wouldn't work! I believe prepreg will need a vacuum bag and oven... you will get better results with it but it requires more expensive equipment.
Hi mate would you be down to make a bangle bracelet about 1-1.5 cm or half an inch for me? Also if yes can you give me an estimate for the charge? Thank you
?can i using multi layers in same part to make thick
Hi Salim, yes you can! I would recommend letting the epoxy get sticky or tacky before laying down the next layer of carbon fiber cloth.
if I wanted to make anything big like a sport car body, could I use only one layer, or should I use multiple layers? and how to have a smooth finish to be painted like a metal sheet?
This is not the way I would want to go about making an entire car body... Would be a nightmare without a proper mold.
@@EmbraceMaking thanks for answer, is possible to make mold for carbon parts with fiberglass?
Nice video, I am learning a lot about the process. I was wondering what it would look like if you vacuum bagged the part, with peel ply? (since the part is small) I guess it's a trade off on work, but would this help with the finish at all? thanks
Thanks for watching! It would probably look better if I vacuum bagged it, but as I mentioned, it was a trade off with the equipment investment. Vacuum bagged parts typically look better as long as the mold underneath is nice and smooth.
When doing vertical surfaces with epoxy do you need a thickener?
Haven't used it before, I just try and build up very light coats on vertical surfaces so that the resin doesn't run.
if I am going to be doing this process to a certain section on a fiberglass bumper that will eventually be prepped and painted (those parts taped off until clear coat) at by a shop, should I be stopping before the polishing step?
Thanks
Hi Conor, I'm not much of a paint guy but I would imagine it won't need to be polished. Primer won't be able to fill a really rough surface so it has to be reasonably smooth. The primer and paint and clear coat will likely not get the polish work done. Best thing to do is ask your paint guy what he expects when you deliver the car!
Do you have pictures or a video installing this part you fab/skinned?
Yes! Check out my Corvette headlight videos on my channel. You will see the whole process :) Thanks for watching!
Is it possible to remove it? for example you want to change the design. If it is possible can make a video of it? Thank you for the helpful video.
Hi Abz, removing the "skin" would be quite difficult in most cases. It would probably require you to cut the carbon fiber piece off with a dremel.
what is your recommendation if someone want to change skin?
btw thank you for the answer.
What 3d printer do u use? Mine doesnt look newer that clean. Mine makes bad noticable layers in it
Mine is a "Rigidbot Big" It was a kit style printer from Kickstarter a few years back
What would the process be if we want to lay it on ABS plastic?
Should be the exact same Adrian. I use the tape as a precaution to protect the plastic from any sort of reaction with the resin. Don't want it to melt!
VERY VERY NICE !!!!!!
can you apply the same process to parts made with Styrofoam ?
Yes you should be able to. Just make sure your resin is compatible with the foam. Some will eat the foam and your foam mold will be ruined. If you apply plastic tape over the foam it can protect it. Thanks for watching!
Look up Mike Patey on TH-cam. He builds molds using foam and has had great success. He builds airplanes and makes a lot of carbon parts.
hi, what material is the 3d printed part made out of??
This was just PLA... once the epoxy cures it is very rigid and whatever happens to the PLA trapped inside doesn't matter.
@@EmbraceMaking Ok perfect, so the epoxy sticks fine to the pla I guess?
Wouldn’t it be faster to pour some resin on the part and work it around that way?
I don't like pouring directly on and end up over saturating certain areas. I find you get more bubbles that way too.
Can you please indicate thanks
I'm wondering how does the fabric conform to all the curves on a part? e.g. sphere
Depending on the type of weave you use for your carbon fiber, some are looser than others. The weave allows the cloth to conform to complex geometries (within reason) to achieve the desired shape!
Thanks for the great video. Looking for the epoxy + hardener you used, from both Amazon and System Three. They only seem to be sold in light/medium amber color? Is this what you used in this video?
Mine look amber when not cured, so maybe just confirm with the seller that it dries clear and you should be all set!
you mix the resin and hardener together?
Yes the resin and hardener form a chemical reaction to cure the resin.