How to separate a piston from a connecting rod
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.พ. 2015
- A short video showing how to separate a piston from a connecting rod.
Demonstrated on a 4age 16v bigport piston and connecting rod.
This is a task that may seem simple at first, but often the wrist pin doesnt come out of the piston so easily. In order to get it out some boiling is in order.
Check out my blog for more 4AGE and mr2 fun: www.driving4answers.com/ - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![How To Balance Your Pistons And Connecting Rods [#TECHTALK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1Bqa3v5AfoA/mqdefault.jpg)
When you're finished heating those pistons, could you cook me up some Valvoline stew in that pan? Maybe with a hydrocarbon garnish and some Exxon spice mix?
Good stuff for us folks who don't have all the fancy tools others do. Thanks!
As a quick note, you should mark the rod to know which side faces to the front of the engine, before removing it. It can be installed wrong, because it will fit either way.
Not this rod, or the rods on nost Japanese engines. Each rod has a marking that needs to be pointed towards the front of the engine.
You don't need a machine shop if they're press fit you just need a badass torch and someone that knows what they're doing
Just did this bain-marie trick with my OEM pistons from a CA18DET-engine (as found in EU 200SX) - I used one old headbolt to lightly hammer the wrist pin out. Thanks again!
easiest way ive found is to have someone tow ur car at about 60 miles per, throw it it first and drop the clutch. sometimes it removes more than the piston tho.
Piston soup, sounds delicious.
why am i watching this im not even old enough to drive legally
I started working on cars before I could drive.
I cut my umbilical cord when I was born
pressed in pins can also be removed using the same method (heat to expand) be patient
Nice
nice!!
I’ve got a TRX400ex and my wrist pin is one with the rod, I’ve got it to move he slightest of a 1 billionth of an millimeter, enough to make the piston not move freely. BUT THATS IT! I tried to heat it up, and tap on it hard while holding the piston still so it didn’t damage my crank or bearings. NO luck. The clamp method did NOTHING. Now, I’ve got my extension stuck in it because that’s what I was using to tap it. No idea what to do now :/ Gonna try to call a shop and see if they can do anything for me.
Dumb question, but since your rods have floating wrist pins, I assume they're 20mm? Early 4AGE's have 18mm press fit wrist pins. If you have 20mm ones, I believe you have the later, stronger, 7 rib 4AGE block too.
Just trying to confirm some of the info I've been reading online :)
Keep up the great work! I find your videos very helpful.
its not a dumb question. My engine is a late bigport, which means 7rib block, the bigger rods, bigger crankshaft and yes, bigger floating pins. They pins are 20mm and the crankshaft is 42mm.
The early bigports had 18mm press fit pins, a 40mm crankshaft and the 3 rib block.
The block basically tells you what you have.
The earlier rotating assembly on the 3ribs is lighter, but the aftermarket support, durability and capacity for higher revs is on the side of the later heavier 20/42 rotating assembly.
mr2 mk1 hero Cool, that's what I thought; thanks for the reply! :) Always good to have solid info ^_^
My wife would whip my ass for doing that in the kitchen.....
Nice video. My engine seized 7 rib 4agze.. In the process of rebuild. Just ordered wrist pins.. For the install do the pins just slide in?
In case of the early 4age bigport they are press fit. In the late 4age bigport you need to heat up the pistons, slide the wrist pins in and then install the snap rings. As far as I know the 4agze is the same as the late bigport.
driving 4 answers thanks a lot!
this is piece of cake
How would u remove wrist pin from conrod?
I loved your video 👍👍👍👍👍👍THIS MY ADVICE 👍👍👍👍USE RIGHT DIAMETERS LONG SOCKET ONCE YOU WARM IN WATER✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️👍👍👍👍👍
excellent
Tyrelle Cowan Sr thanks
I thought it turned into a cooking video lol
What about the piston with no circlip ....how can i separate my 4g63a piston
Como hacer delicioso caldo de piston.
IS this what shot through the bottom of my 99' f150 v6 4.2l oil pan when knocking noise was on freeway? do i have to buy another engine, or drop oil pan and fix this connecting rod?
Did you end up fixing the issue?
I just use a press to push the wrist pin out, don't need a machine shop.
And use carb cleaner not wd40
Exactly! I have a press in my garage so why do I need a machine shop for this?
Peter piper picked a peck of pickled pressed in piston pins
LIKE ONE VIEWER SAID 👍👍👍👍MARK PIN👍👍👍👍👍WHICH WAY COME OUT✌️✌️✌️✌️
The that piston head can handle a explosion but csnt handle the heat from the pot?!
If you knew anything about cars is that the explosion happens on top of the piston where it usually is really dark from the explosions, but if you start adding tunes that force more fuel into the combustion chamber too much heat will discolor the piston
yummy piston soup
My manual says not to separate them, your MR2 must be different, mines an 1983 supra
You must separate them when you want to change the pistons and keep the rods :) These are much easier compared to press fit pistons.
Hi welcome to chillies how may I help you
ha ha press fit piston pin
Well wouldn’t it help if it wasn’t laying on the table but held up so ok
Man's breath sounds like deflating balloon
Uhh my pisten don’t wiggle
Yeah, what a pleasure. Now i can give you an advice. You dont need water, just use an old electronic stove which you dont use for cooking anymore, that you can use as a heat plate and put the assembly uside donwn on it. Of corse before you do that, you have to remove the clips and switch on the stove max 50% power is enough.
As you said aluminium expands faster than steel. So you have just to wait and monitor the situation. If you wait to long the steel will also expand es much as the aluminium and its to late. If youve done everything right, the pin will just fall out of the hole, as you hold the assembly sideways, pin down. But be cerful with the pin and rod, because they also will heat up.
I suggest stove/ air instead of stove water, bacause in water the temerature is pretty even. By just using a stove the heat needs to creep up the piston material and will spread through the piston, while the heat transfare between piston and pin will be relativly bad compared to water, which surrounds every surface of both materials and will heat them up with a nearly even rate.
You can use this technique also with a ball bearing stuck in a gearbox housing of an motorcycle f.e. . Just switch the power on 100% of the stove and put the housing with the gasket face on the stove ( gasket removed) so the bearing will face down. Gravity will do the rest and the bearing should fall out in a few minutes.
I did it my self, bearing in housing and piston pin in oem piston. Belive me, it works
✌
That’s 1 piston 11 more to go
Fuck you fixing a lambo ? 😂
If you used carb cleaner and get varnish off it will come right out
You didn't need hot water!
Next time use a socket that's the same size
That's a nice way to damage the pin bore. Please don't suggest hack methods as someone might think it's a good idea and do it.
@@d4a ive learned from old mechanics! Seen it done many times and I've done it before! If the socket is the same circumference it won't!
@@punchogunter2362 old mechanics aren't always, or even often often, the best mechanics. More time in the shop means more time to learn shortcuts that save time at the expense of quality of result. There are some great examples of aging mechanics on TH-cam who know a lot about most of what they do that have some absolutely bonkers ideas they picked up from what was true when they were a young mechanic.
Well WD40 isn’t always gd to clean off inside engine parts but Cool
For all the stress and time wasted doing this you could have gone to Harbor Freight, bought a 12 ton press for $99, and gotten all the wrist pins out.
You talk a lot then doing the actual work 😚😣
Buy your wife a better stove, my wife's induction stove would have had that water boiling in 30 seconds flat.