How to install a press fit piston wrist pin with out a press
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- How to install a press fit piston wrist pin with out a press
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Just watched your video. Thanks for the advice on freezing the pins! Getting ready to do this process and what you mentioned makes perfect sense! Thank you
This is why I like free floating pins.
Yeah we all do but some don't come that way
ive done this several times on mopars with excellent results to 6500 rpm.
should've pre mounted the pin in one end of the piston , that way youre not struggling to get the pin intoo the piston while the small end is cooling down
Yep, smh
I like how it grips after a few seconds, nice!
Great explanation. Simple, with no special tools. Thanks DD
Youre one talent SOB, did that one handed, very good! I'm surprised how easily that slipped in. Good Deal!
Thank you Ever Forward, I appreciate your comment :)
@@Engineerboy100 I thought it was equally as good that you showed how long the rod stays movable once the pin is in. Everyone has said you have maybe 3 seconds to do this and you didn't rush putting the pin in, then wiggled the rod for a while, best "put the pin in" video I've seen, simple in every respect. I watched a guy who must have had this 500$ sled that held the piston in perfect position from every angle with precision machine screws dialing in unprecedented accuracy for perfect alignment. And here you go and put it in one handed and I think just "two fingered" while holding the camera and probably a beer with you other hand. Hurrah for the blue collar boys!! I loved it!
^ that's what she said. lol
It never occurred to me to NOT cool the Pin. And, I also use Propane. I don't have a fixture for the Mapp Gas. Propane works too.
Where were you when I broke a piston with a hydraulic press? Lol thanks for the awesome video! Huge help!
You're welcome Jon, keep having fun in that garage mate ;)
It's really That easy? No reason to pay a pro to do That. Thanks, Clint. Great Video.
If you put the rod on the oven at 250 celsius for a 5min and then apply a little of heat like you did, you dont need to torch it until it goes blue.
Cool, good to know, thanks.
This was a really good video.
well if you make to much heat the rod will snap off just where you heated it. at 7000 rpm
It's a low compression, low power engine that rarely goes over 3000 rpm, it'll be fine. I've had no problems doing these for nearly 30 years. It's not a Porsche or a Ferrari, I know, I work on those too.
If you could get a junkyard piston to make 7000 RPMs
Why would you be trying to turn 7000rpm with a press fit rods?
You should never clamp a rod along the beam. If you must clamp it along the bearing boss end
Useful Video - thank you!!
That is pretty cool! Thank you!
Great video just next time have the wristpin on the piston ready to go and then heat up the rod 👍👍👍
Yep, I thought of that after I did it smh, good thinking, thanks.
@@Engineerboy100 well no one's perfect but you did get the job done and at the end of the day that's what matters. You're video definitely gave me hopes and definitely going to do this my self. One thing I learned is don't trust professionals enless you have no clue or experience. They will mess your car up.
If you want to learn how to perform basic service on your car, this full collor book is the best you can get!
www.amazon.com/Your-Care-Companion-Clint-Hightower/dp/1517466946/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493398557&sr=8-1&keywords=your+car+care+companion
There's a debate on whether that blue color may badly affect the connecting rod metallurgy or not.. what's your opinion? And is this better than using a hydraulic press?
The flame does affect the metal, ironically it could actually make the rod stronger as it cools. The annealing process could allow some of the atomic bonds to form a stronger connection making the metal less brittle and actually stronger in this application. In a higher rmp engine with more horse power this process could make the rod "weaker" because the higher stress could cause the "softer" state of the metal result in bending.
Did you have a clip install already to limit the wrist pin travel?
No, I didn't and I should have had the pin already lined up in the piston ...
Cool. You won't burn the temper off the connecting rod by heating it too much?
... Well if you heat it TOO much of course, but I've never had a problem ... That said, I would NOT use this method on a high compression engine ...
they use the same method on small blok chevy rods , the professional machines use an electric element to heat up the small end
Awesome stuff here! Im building a sbc and my question is, do the rods have to be perfectly CENTERED in the piston once you install the pin?
The closer to centered, the better.
@@Engineerboy100 ok thank you
How do u take the piston off?
I would think that you would have everything ready to go before you started the heating process
Yes, that would have been a very good idea smh
Thanks for your comment.
james hester ,you are here because you have cracked or are about to crack a piston , have some grattitude and loose the attitude
after heating it up and done cooling down is it suppose to be tight when you wiggle the rods
No, the piston still needs to swivel.
Does this not harm the coating on the bearing? Many bushings like that come with a special coating on them.
I've built these engines and put 300k miles on them and then sold them still running, was the coating damaged? I have no idea.
@@Engineerboy100 Thanks!
this kind of pin dont use an bush bearing.
There is no bushing the rod is locked onto the wrist pin, it moves in the piston only.
Can you remove them the same way? And if so, can I reheat the connecting rod for a second time to reinstall?
No, you can't remove it the same way. If you heat up the connecting rod with the pin in it, the pin will heat up and expand right along with the rod.
thx for that friend
Don't do it. Have somebody with lots of experience do this because it is VERY easy to mess up and good luck getting that pin back out or in the rest of the way.
Good advice, but most people into an engine to the point that they are replacing pistons, probably have enough experience to know what they are doing. But then again, you never know.
Clint, I asked my Jeep Dealership to find the source of engine noise on my 2001 Jeep Cherokee. Upon starting very noticeable, but then calms down while driving. I bought it recently with 187000 miles on it. Has 189000 now. Engine pulls strong and feels great. So mechanic pulls oil pan. Reports back that bearings look good but that I have Two loose wrist pins. A little metal in oil pan he says. How big of a problem do you think this is. I dont daily drive it as I use it to pull a 10 foot trailer and large mower from time to time. Would you drive it on a long trip? Your thoughts appreciated if you would like to answer. Thank you.
The engine needs to be rebuilt. I would not pull any trailer with it in it's current condition I most definitely would not go on a long trip....And I don't think you would either lol :)
@@Engineerboy100 Thanks Clint for fast response! Dealership stated they had no access to those required parts for fixing. I found that strange. 8400 for new motor with 3 year warranty. Ouch that figure stung me! Guess I better start savings my coins. I paid 4500 for it as its extremely well kept. Then put 4800 into it with alot of new parts. Thank you again😀
Nice video
Thanks Sam!
Very nice!
Never heat the rod!it weakens it and under high rpm will crack or snap at the wrist pin!you can easily press them in/out without heat the correct way
Never is a big word, you should NEVER use it lol, you are correct for most modern high compression or high performance engines but for these low powered engines, a quick quench after heating and they are fine. Never had a problem in over 40 years.
All machine shops heat them. You have no idea what you are talking about.
@@Jam-jt3gy all of them? Really?
They really do heat them and I really don't trust professionals anymore do to bad experiences so looks easy and I will do it myself after watching a few more TH-cam videos and some cominsence. Like having the wristpin on the piston before heating up the piston rod ready to go in as soon as the rod is ready.
@@mickpatterson6402 Yup press them off heat them to reinstall.
How do you remove the pin with the rod still connected to the head of the piston without a press?
The rod is connected to the crank shaft. The rod is removed by taking the oil pan off and removing the bolts from the bottom.
Okay I get that but I'm trying to remove the wrist pin out of the piston and rod without a press I already have the Pistons out of the engine that's nothing.
@@thatbluegsxr2651 put a long bolt through one side of the wrist pin. Ensure bolt head is small enough to travel throu piston and con rod. Place long bolt into vice with piston and con rod dangling on one side. Don't do up vice to tight. Big washer and nut on opposite side and tighten. Bolt pulls wrist pin through vice
@@peterradovanovich8874 I tried it the bolt busted and the head of the bolt almost went through the washer if the bolt hadn’t busted first
You don’t have a blow torch can I use my microwave for a few minutes?
Clamps rod with vice grip🤦♂️
Don't do this.
Elaborate.
Idiot