The general idea to replace spark plugs is to: 1. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the ignition coills. 2. Remove the ignition coils. 3. Remove the spark plugs. 4. Install the spark plugs and torque them to spec. 5. Install the ignition coils and torque them to spec as applicable. 6. Connect the wiring connectors from the ignition coils. -------------------- Tools required (B58TU): - Flathead Screwdriver - 1/4" Drive Ratchet - 3/8" Drive Ratchet - 3/8" Drive 6" Length Extension - Torque Wrench, that is able to do 23 Nm of torque - 3/8" Drive 12-Points Thinwall 14mm Magnetic Socket (Spark Plug Socket) - E8 External Torx Socket (1/4" Drive) - Spark Plug Gap Feeler Gauge - Spark Plug Gap Adjustment Tool -------------------- Torque Spec (B58TU): - Spark Plug: 23 Nm - Ignition Coil: 8 Nm -------------------- Your support means the world to me. If you like the video, please give it a thumbs-up, share it with your friends who need this, and subscribe to my channel! By no means am I a professional mechanic, I am also trying to learn as I go, and to learn from my mistakes. If you do have any input or question, please feel free to drop them in the comments. I will try to address them as best as I can.
Great and thorough spark plug install on the ever loving B58. Also like the channel overall, so will have to subscribe.. Thanks again for your detailed explanation.
Appreciate the kind words! I usually do plugs as preventative maintenance. Service interval varies if you’re tuned. If it’s stock, I’d say 60k miles is a good starting point if it hasn’t misfired yet. If it’s tuned, I’d say about 25k miles. This is just my personal opinions tho, I’ve seen and heard others running longer service intervals with no issues.
Appreciate your comment! I usually do a whole set of maintenance just a bit after I get a pre-owned car (all oil/fluid, spark plugs). That’s just personal preference tho! Generally speaking, I’d say about 60k km / 35k mi will be a good time to replace spark plugs; then to replace ignition coils at the 2nd time you’re replacing spark plugs. If the car is tuned, I’d cut the mentioned interval in half.
@@petes3571 The Champion plugs I bought from BMW are all a shy of 0.030" (except one that's way off and I gapped it myself). I couldn't exactly fit in the 0.030" blade, and the next down 0.028" leaves the tiniest little gap on them. That said, I would say between 0.028"-0.030" will be good.
Do you have a video of changing coolant from the radiator or changing brake fluid with 2 person job? Is there any way i can send you some photos about the leak coming from big pipe next to the serpentine belt on the x7? Dealer said it normal for the leak but i see some type of oil flashing all over front axle motor and electrical wires of front axle Thanks again
These engines coolant services typically require to a vacuum-fill method, that I have no access to currently :( As for changing brake fluid, I may do it down the road but it’s not in priority at the moment. My unpopular take is that if the brake pedal doesn’t feel spongy (air in system), I wouldn’t touch it just yet. Coolant leak is generally easy to spot - you would notice dried up blue or green gunk, almost looks like crystals, by the water pump, coolant hoses, or coolant reservoir areas. I’ve seen some dried up oil by the front passenger side axle on B4x/B58 engines, and that is the only leak I’d think it’s normal. That is blowby in liquid form dripping down from your turbo outlet (charge pipe or intake pipe connections). I’d suggest that you can run your finger over at the charge pipe, intake pipe, and coolant hose connections; and determine if it’s a coolant leak or oil leak from the residue. And goes without saying that you should only do that when the engine is cold. Good luck!
From what i have research google the part number from the pipe(8679201 borgwarner), its the big turbo outlet connect to the engine The big plastic pipe connect to the engine pipe and theres a leak of oil flashing through out the pipe, the dealer said its normal and they deny to fix it or clean up the oil flashing through pipe and down around the electric steering component and electrical steering wires Do you think that leak could be fix to stop the leak, btw, my vehicle still under warranty
@@benp1059 happens on mine too, and even worse on my old F30 330ix. That’s just blowby in liquid form sweating down to those parts. I wouldn’t worry about it too much, unless it’s leaking instead of dripping of a difference, if this makes sense at all.
Dont you think from time to time dust will build up around the steering wire sleeve wrap component and other parts, they already did build up some dust , i meant i did spray some brake cleaner to clean them but all the oil residue still sticking on the wire wrapping sleeve made out fabric material
@@benp1059 Most of these components have seals or protective layers to withstand environmental elements. If you are worried about it, I would just spray some all purpose cleaner and hose it down from time to time. I wouldnt use brake cleaner tho, as it has the potential to dry out rubber over time and cause cracks.
Quick question, should i use a high temp silicone around the inlet pipe to turbo to stop the splashing of the oil residue around the pipe and others nearby components? I dont know why no one have the solution to stop the oil residue caused by turbo, i meant it should not be any oil splashing on any vehicle engine, period. I dont think lexus turbo have any oil residue build up though
I get where you’re coming from, I also found it weird that my older B46 and this B58TU do the same thing with having blowby dripping off at the turbo inlet. Supposedly and presumably, it’s a sealed off unit. You could try replacing the o-ring at the turbo inlet connection to turbo; regardless, I always use a dap of dielectric grease lightly coat the o-ring to lube it up and provide a smoother and better sealing. Perhaps this is something you would want to try if it bothers you? And another option I was looking for is the BMS Charge Pipe that I believe they are the only charge pipe on the market with double o-rings design.
Spark plugs about 50k km/30k mi. Coil packs about 100k km/60k mi. If tuned, depends on how aggressive the tune is - may wanna do plugs in half the mentioned intervals so 25k km/15k mi. And general rule of thumb is do coils the 2nd time you’re doing plugs, unless the coils are misfiring.
The general idea to replace spark plugs is to:
1. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the ignition coills.
2. Remove the ignition coils.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Install the spark plugs and torque them to spec.
5. Install the ignition coils and torque them to spec as applicable.
6. Connect the wiring connectors from the ignition coils.
--------------------
Tools required (B58TU):
- Flathead Screwdriver
- 1/4" Drive Ratchet
- 3/8" Drive Ratchet
- 3/8" Drive 6" Length Extension
- Torque Wrench, that is able to do 23 Nm of torque
- 3/8" Drive 12-Points Thinwall 14mm Magnetic Socket (Spark Plug Socket)
- E8 External Torx Socket (1/4" Drive)
- Spark Plug Gap Feeler Gauge
- Spark Plug Gap Adjustment Tool
--------------------
Torque Spec (B58TU):
- Spark Plug: 23 Nm
- Ignition Coil: 8 Nm
--------------------
Your support means the world to me. If you like the video, please give it a thumbs-up, share it with your friends who need this, and subscribe to my channel!
By no means am I a professional mechanic, I am also trying to learn as I go, and to learn from my mistakes. If you do have any input or question, please feel free to drop them in the comments. I will try to address them as best as I can.
Thanks for this! super easy!
Love to hear that! They’ve made it way easier on the G20 for the cylinders at the back, than the F30 I had previously!
Great and thorough spark plug install on the ever loving B58. Also like the channel overall, so will have to subscribe.. Thanks again for your detailed explanation.
Love to hear that, thank you for your support!!
Thank you so much for the video, you rock! I also have 2020 m340i RWD, ran 55000miles. When do I need to change them?
Appreciate the kind words! I usually do plugs as preventative maintenance. Service interval varies if you’re tuned. If it’s stock, I’d say 60k miles is a good starting point if it hasn’t misfired yet.
If it’s tuned, I’d say about 25k miles.
This is just my personal opinions tho, I’ve seen and heard others running longer service intervals with no issues.
@@TandeGarage the only mod I did is MPE. I've just ordered Dinan Intake. Thanks again!
Appreciate the video. 🎉🎉 At what interval do you change the plugs? I have a full stock 2021 m340 with currently 29k on it
Appreciate your comment! I usually do a whole set of maintenance just a bit after I get a pre-owned car (all oil/fluid, spark plugs). That’s just personal preference tho!
Generally speaking, I’d say about 60k km / 35k mi will be a good time to replace spark plugs; then to replace ignition coils at the 2nd time you’re replacing spark plugs. If the car is tuned, I’d cut the mentioned interval in half.
@@TandeGarage thanks for the advice
@@TandeGarage Do you know if the stock gap for spark plugs for m340 is 0.03? I am getting Ngk 96206 and they should come in with a gap of 0.03.
@@petes3571 The Champion plugs I bought from BMW are all a shy of 0.030" (except one that's way off and I gapped it myself). I couldn't exactly fit in the 0.030" blade, and the next down 0.028" leaves the tiniest little gap on them.
That said, I would say between 0.028"-0.030" will be good.
Do you have a video of changing coolant from the radiator or changing brake fluid with 2 person job?
Is there any way i can send you some photos about the leak coming from big pipe next to the serpentine belt on the x7? Dealer said it normal for the leak but i see some type of oil flashing all over front axle motor and electrical wires of front axle
Thanks again
These engines coolant services typically require to a vacuum-fill method, that I have no access to currently :(
As for changing brake fluid, I may do it down the road but it’s not in priority at the moment. My unpopular take is that if the brake pedal doesn’t feel spongy (air in system), I wouldn’t touch it just yet.
Coolant leak is generally easy to spot - you would notice dried up blue or green gunk, almost looks like crystals, by the water pump, coolant hoses, or coolant reservoir areas.
I’ve seen some dried up oil by the front passenger side axle on B4x/B58 engines, and that is the only leak I’d think it’s normal. That is blowby in liquid form dripping down from your turbo outlet (charge pipe or intake pipe connections).
I’d suggest that you can run your finger over at the charge pipe, intake pipe, and coolant hose connections; and determine if it’s a coolant leak or oil leak from the residue. And goes without saying that you should only do that when the engine is cold.
Good luck!
From what i have research google the part number from the pipe(8679201 borgwarner), its the big turbo outlet connect to the engine
The big plastic pipe connect to the engine pipe and theres a leak of oil flashing through out the pipe, the dealer said its normal and they deny to fix it or clean up the oil flashing through pipe and down around the electric steering component and electrical steering wires
Do you think that leak could be fix to stop the leak, btw, my vehicle still under warranty
@@benp1059 happens on mine too, and even worse on my old F30 330ix. That’s just blowby in liquid form sweating down to those parts. I wouldn’t worry about it too much, unless it’s leaking instead of dripping of a difference, if this makes sense at all.
Dont you think from time to time dust will build up around the steering wire sleeve wrap component and other parts, they already did build up some dust , i meant i did spray some brake cleaner to clean them but all the oil residue still sticking on the wire wrapping sleeve made out fabric material
@@benp1059 Most of these components have seals or protective layers to withstand environmental elements. If you are worried about it, I would just spray some all purpose cleaner and hose it down from time to time. I wouldnt use brake cleaner tho, as it has the potential to dry out rubber over time and cause cracks.
Quick question, should i use a high temp silicone around the inlet pipe to turbo to stop the splashing of the oil residue around the pipe and others nearby components?
I dont know why no one have the solution to stop the oil residue caused by turbo, i meant it should not be any oil splashing on any vehicle engine, period.
I dont think lexus turbo have any oil residue build up though
I get where you’re coming from, I also found it weird that my older B46 and this B58TU do the same thing with having blowby dripping off at the turbo inlet. Supposedly and presumably, it’s a sealed off unit.
You could try replacing the o-ring at the turbo inlet connection to turbo; regardless, I always use a dap of dielectric grease lightly coat the o-ring to lube it up and provide a smoother and better sealing.
Perhaps this is something you would want to try if it bothers you? And another option I was looking for is the BMS Charge Pipe that I believe they are the only charge pipe on the market with double o-rings design.
Thanks for all the information, i will do some research on BMS charge pipe and can decide from there, mines is B58B30
How many miles should the coils replace and spark plugs?
Spark plugs about 50k km/30k mi.
Coil packs about 100k km/60k mi.
If tuned, depends on how aggressive the tune is - may wanna do plugs in half the mentioned intervals so 25k km/15k mi. And general rule of thumb is do coils the 2nd time you’re doing plugs, unless the coils are misfiring.