วีดีโอ

Should work just fine. Some procedures might be different, say the lower control arm diffuser I mentioned to remove in order to gain better access to the caliper carrier bolts - that you may not have it in the Supra. But the general procedures should be nearly identical for the Supra vs M340i.

@ you used bimmercode or bimmelink by any chance and what obd tool

Hey! Are you saying to drain the old fluid out all the way, or are you saying not to overfill the rear diff?

@ don’t over fill, I have run it to allot of problems because of it. I didn’t let it drain out completely. And it started shuttering, then I drain it out but while it was hot. I took out to much, then I heard grinding once in a while when I would make a rite turn only. So then I re open and put more oil an waited till it came to a slow dribble. Then closed it. Now no grinding but it makes a small shutter ever once in a wile. I just might re open and do it all over again. I used to do this to my Honda pilot, it was no big deal but this car is something else.

@@highendtrends3508 I’ve only heard of overfilling could cause excessive vent under high-stress scenarios, such as launching. It’ll look like a leak from the top of the diff cover. Never have I heard of it being an issue that could cause drivability concern, though I can imagine it happens. It’s about my 6th diff fluid change on BMWs, and I always leave it till a steady dribble then to close off the fill plug. Never have an issue so far going with that method. Good point though, and I’ll keep that in mind!

list of maintenance as well as when YOU would do it and not just manufacturer maintenance frequency. i would like a master list so i can coordinate and do it myself as best i can

Routine/General maintenances vary with the condition the car is driven in, so I can only provide a guide to be *referenced* to, instead of to be *followed*. (p.s. I live in Canada and we use metric system over here. Please convert them to imperial system if you need to. And, no - the list is not generated by AI should you need to know lol) Powertrain: - Engine Oil & Engine Oil Filter: Every 5,000 km - 8,000km (5,000 km for hard-driving, 8,000 km for highway driving; I do both of them every 7,000 km) - Engine Air Filter: Every 3 Oil Changes, unless the vehicle is constantly driven in dusty environment (i.e. construction workers) - Spark Plugs (Preventative Maintenance instead of Routine Maintenance): Every 60,000 km - 100,000 km. If the vehicle is tuned, you can also consider changing them every year, or every 30,000 km or so. - Coil Packs/Ignition Coils (Also Preventative Maintenance): Every 2 Spark Plugs changes. Drivetrain: - ZF8 Transmission Fluid & Filter: Every 60,000 km to 100,000 km (60,000 km if the ZF8 is tuned, like mine on xHP; 100,000 km if it's left stock) - Front Differential Fluid (if xDrive): Every 60,000 km to 80,000 km - Rear Differential Fluid: Every 60,000 km to 80,000 km - Transfer Case Fluid (if xDrive): Every 60,000 km to 80,000 km I'd usually do Front and Rear Diff Fluid at once, to avoid the hassle of leveling the car to attend both services. If you have checked out my other videos, you might have also noticed I attended both the transmission fluid & filter service and the transfer case fluid change at the same time. I don't normally bother with coolant flush or brake flush, especially with coolant flush since water pump typically goes out before you need to flush the coolant system. And that a water pump replacement requires you to flush/bleed the coolant system anyways. However, of course, to each their own; and ideally speaking, at least brake fluid should be flushed every 2 years or so. Hope this helps! Once again, this is a general guideline - a guideline that I personally follow according to my own driving situations and environments. At the end of the day, everyone drives differently and drives in different places. You may want to try and figure out what works best for you.

I didn't replace the stiffening plate's mounting bolts, no. I just double-checked the service manual and made sure it states the mounting bolts for the stiffening plates are not necessarily to be replaced ("renewed", if going by the book), and they are to be tightened down to 56 Nm, no additional degree of turn requried. Quoting from the service manual, "Stiffening plate to front axle support - M10 - Tightening Torque 56 Nm". Unless, somehow, we're talking about a different stiffening plate; I'm quite confident to say that the M10 bolts are the ones we take off in order to remove the stiffening plate, to gain access to the front differential. Regardless, sending my best wishes to you attending this service DIY-style! Hopefully, yours has the fill plug on the right side of the axle in which it's easier to access; than the left side of the axle in which it is reportedly more difficult to reach.

@@TandeGarage Intresting. On the G80 they're renew bolts, and I saw some disscussion on the G20 forums debating just that. Btw thanks for the transmission and transfer case video, that helped a ton (there were some minor differences). I'll be doing rear diff and then spark plugs as well soon so your vids on those will no doubt help as well.

@@hockeygoalie35 I also referenced on other repair procedures on the service manual. If the bolts are to be replaced because they are torqued to yield, or any other reason, the manual should say to renew bolts. That isn’t the case for the stiffening plate bolts, just states to tighten them. That’s why I’m confident to say they don’t need to be replaced. In addition, the fact that it appears to me the stiffening plate’s sole purpose is to protect the front differential, electronic steering rack and other crucial undercarriage components, instead of as well serving as a suspension brace, I won’t be too concerned to re-use these bolts.

Can’t really speak for the late builds 2019, since mine is Apr 2019. And according to others on the internet, there isn’t necessary guarantee about when exactly was the cutoff date, for BMW officially ditching the old design of oil pump. Regardless, the first telltale sign is going to be unable to measure oil consistently, then sooner or later low oil pressure warning light. When it reaches that point, however, the vehicle needs to be towed to be repaired immediately.

Thanks for the comment! To be honest, I’ve also been thinking about this ever since I’ve made this video (yeah, I’ve been thinking about it for a long time lol). I’d assume a lot of us attempting/have attempted to perform a fluid change on our BMW w/ ZF8 already have known that, at least BMW, utilizes a thermostat system with the transmission cooler; so it’s closed before the 75ish C to allow the fluid to reach operating temp faster, and allow the fluid to flow through the cooler when it reaches 75ish C to cool down the fluid (transmission cooler thermostat part number 17228678822). Applying the logic about coolant flush I’ve done on my previous cars - even the coolant thermostat is closed, there will still be fluid in the radiator when you try to drain the rad. That said, as long as we are draining the ZF8 transmission fluid from the pan cold, the fluid in the oil cooler should technically be trapped in the cooler and not to be drained. In other words, the manual states to overfill 500ml if an oil cooler is present, that should not concern us unless we’re doing something else with the oil cooler. Even then, if you look at the specs about the CSF ZF8 Transmission Cooler, it states the BMW transmission cooler only houses about 240ml, not 500ml as ZF states (ZF’s guide is made for general use since ZF8 is widely used across A LOT of platforms) - and I really doubt that 240ml is going to make a significant difference in any potential increased wear and tear with the ZF8. --- Well that was a long writeup and a long read lol. I’ve done my research for a long time but there’s no definite right or wrong answer on the internet so far. I’m just trying to apply general logics and what I’ve learned from working on cars so far, and therefore I can’t promise what I’m saying is 100% correct either. Though I hope that helps with the dilemma about overfilling 500ml if oil cooler is present and put our minds at ease for the time being.

@@TandeGarageThank you! Your channel is an amazing source for information and service procedures for the G20 community.

@@Legolas6911 appreciate the kind words mate!

Love to hear that! They’ve made it way easier on the G20 for the cylinders at the back, than the F30 I had previously!

Thank you for the kind words! I’ve done quite a bit to my G20 M340 so far. If you haven’t yet, check out my channel for the rest of the videos, or check out the BMW playlists under my channel!

It depends on where you are in the world., if you would purchase as CPO. Take mine as an example: 2020 MY, it was delivered to the first owner in 2019 July. I purchased it as a pre-owned vehicle from a dealership as a non-CPO. BMW Canada warranty is only good upto 4 years/80k km, whichever comes first. That said, when I purchased mine as non-CPO, warranty has already ended. It’s been a year since I have purchased mine, and therefore the 2021 MY has/will have expired warranty by now if potential owner is buying them as non-CPO units. And let’s face the truth for a second, a good part of M340i owners/potential owners will have it modified sooner than later. Being a pay to play scenario, should something go wrong, warranty likely won’t cover when it’s modified.

Adding on (just got to the end of your video😂). One additional ‘pro’ of the MY2020 M340i is there’s no Mild Hybrid complexity/future cost of 48V battery replacement, at least in North America (MH application varies by region).

My old oil pump was showing signs of defect (unable to measure oil, stopped at around 20% and kicked me back to menu page), that’s why I decided to change it out. Since I have the, supposedly, new design of oil pump, I have been able to measure oil every single time. The indy shop mechanic even showed me the new and old oil pump design comparison (plastic components vs metal). And I agree with your point of view about the MH design on the 2021+ MY. From one of the commenters on my previous vid about changing the fluid and filter on its ZF8, there’s a different design and part# for the transmission pan filter, to accommodate the MH start stop system. And the MH transmission pan filter is significantly more expensive than the non-MH 2020 MY 😮‍💨

Ah yep it was definitely failing. I have a 2021 Supra with an early production date so it is likely affected; it only sees ~1k miles per year so hopefully I’ll never find out. It’s a rather involved job on the Supra requiring the subframe to be dropped. I imagine it’s the same on the G20 but could be wrong. Very interesting on the oil pump comparison. If you have any pictures the Supra forum would definitely be interested. For the revised 8HP I wonder if the commenter was referring to the G20 LCI2 (2025+). Prior to the LCI2 the MH setup uses a generator with a pulley on the crank, whereas the new iteration leverages the transmission.

Not necessarily the reason, no. It’s just because the Amsoil ATL is what Sutphin Tuning, as well as other transmission upgrade shops, used as an upgraded fluid for the ZF8. After doing some more research before I chose Amsoil, I believe the OEM Lifeguard 8 is a Group 3 oil, and the Amsoil ATL is a Group 5 oil. Easiest way to explain it is that the LG8 is semi-synthetic oil and Amsoil ATL is full synthetic oil; and that the Amsoil ATL can take on a lot more beating than the LG8. Hope this answers your question!

Thank you man, as always!

@@TandeGarage ofc! the tip on cross referencing parts with Toyota was mind blowing😂I never thought about that. So, how would you go about finding the part number and matching it? is there a constant number that doesn't change between the manufactures for certain parts? - if that makes sense lol

@@itzjustmo2715 Yeah no, I know what you are trying to say. Unfortunately, no, there isn't an easier workaround than to actually spend the time in the Supra parts catalog and look for what you need. Not just BMW & Toyota, all car manufactureers have their own way of numbering their parts. They can't have the same part#, even though it's the exact same part.

Appreciate the kind words - hope this video was helpful to you, however way this relates to your project. Best of luck!

Of course man, go for it - all the best!

I’m glad the video helped!

Much agreed, and I’m meticulous about rattles so this car drives me crazy from time to time. I’ve drafted up a video of one-year impression, and some pros and cons of my M340i over the year, just a couple of wrinkles to be fixed with editing. After that, the videos will be live, and hopefully it will spark some more discussions among owners!

😂😂😂 but not gonna lie, red looks good too!

Appreciate the kind words! I got the tray from Aliexpress. It fits **almost** perfectly, just the corners sticking out a tiny bit that you may want to use more 3M double-sided tape to fit more flush. I don’t mind it, it’s practical for the most part. But my partner absolutely hates it, says it “cheapens” the car lol. To each their own!

@@TandeGarage I appreciate your quick reply and honesty

I haven’t seen a G20 330ix undercarriage in person, so can’t comment from experience. I’d assume there should be a front subframe on the 330ix too, just like any other unibody vehicles out there. They are generally a safe spot to lift up the entire front end. The matter here lies on if you can find a spot, sometimes it’s marked, sometimes it’s hidden, at the front subframe to lift it up.

It really is that easy 😂

I am running DWS06+! And yes, my car had RFT from the factory. I have been running DWS06+ as my “summer tires” several years ago on different cars. I live in Toronto, Canada, where we do see all 4 seasons; and occasionally snow very badly for several days/weeks. I don’t run these in the winter, as I have dedicated winter tires. I think they are great as all season tires, one of the best tires for daily drivers with occasional spirited driving. Low noise, great ride quality, does all season conditions pretty well. I hate RFT with a genuine passion: they are generally more expensive to begin with; lack of flexibility to repair them in case of a puncture (not all tire shops would work on repairing RFT); harsher ride comfort, etc. The only real benefit is to the ability to get to a shop in case of a puncture, and I guess to reduce the vehicle’s gross weight since you’re not carrying a spare tire. TLDR: I love my DWS-06+! I would recommend them to anyone who is NOT a track monster/drag race driver.

Thanks for the kind words! In the video, the pan I used was made by Hengst, of OE equivalent. The part number is 24115A13115. The Amsoil ATF/ATL was purchased from Amsoil website directly.

99% of cars on the market has its own common problems tbh. Try to weigh the common problems and see if it’s worth your headaches over.

You’re gonna love when I launch my mini-series of attempting to address potential & existing interior rattles on the G20, in the soon future! Stay tuned!!!

@ Oh please release it asap! I can’t wait to fix them

Put a bit of grease around the sunroof and it should stop the rattle

Good video but you forgot the engine mounts. Known to fail quite easily, can be costly to repair. Car will rattle if they are damaged when the engine is at idle.

@ good call! Probably gonna do another update video about this, now that I’ve owned and known the car more!

Appreciate it, I’m also excited about my journey with the M340! I don’t think Bimmercode has the feature to code in the gear indicator, unfortunately (though I’m not 100% sure); mine is done through xHP, as I’m OTS-style custom tuned with Sutphin Tuning.

Bimmercode can’t do it unfortunately. XHP / TCU flash is the only way.

Not a big fan going about doing an extra step that does close to nothing. I’ve been compressing pistons back into the caliper without opening the bleeder valve for years. Haven’t had an issue so far, except for an old car from the 90s that sat in a barn for decades. If dirty fluid is a concern, I’d flush the entire hydraulic system with new brake fluid. Otherwise, open the master cylinder cap, push the piston back, close up the cap and call it a job well done.

@ makes sense to decouple from a dedicated brake flush job!

I’d say 60-ish k km is a pretty reasonable mileage to change the differentials fluids, it’s not exactly expensive nor labour intensive; but to each their own. If you do care about the car, these basic maintenance items are the least you can do to ensure its reliability; including a shortened engine oil change interval than what BMW recommends.

Look for sales with Germanparts.ca, I think they might be the cheapest to sell LM during sale. Try for their Black Friday sale that should happen later in Nov.

Somewhat glad that mine is not that “scientific”, just the traditional “fill to the brim and you’ll be alright”. 😂

Hi there! Yes, I do have xHP on my M340, OTS-style tuned with Sutphin Tuning. One of the best mods I’ve done with any of my cars - it just really transforms how the car drives. Paired nicely along with the BM3 Stage 1 tune currently it has on. And I really appreciate the kind words! I also see it that way, where more DIYers will try to work on these cars as they run out of warranty. But for now, I guess I’ll be the pioneer to inspire those!

Hey, thank you for the kind words! I already have a video for the exact content you’re asking for. Check out my m340 playlist for it. I guess the thumbnail wasn’t attractive enough, that I’ll have to redo it some other time 😂

@ thanks man, super helpful. I’m also surprised why I wasn’t able to find that video before - now I know it’s there!

Lovely, I’m glad to hear it helps! Best of luck to you to whatever projects you have lined up ahead!😎

I got the fluid from the dealership - be mindful that they are fairly limited stock. Call them before going there to realize they don’t have any in stock. The pump I just got off Amazon! I’m not yet an Amazon associate so I don’t want to post link (just yet). But read the reviews and buy one that has great feedback from users, then you should be all set 😉

@@TandeGarage thank you for quick response, new subscriber earned!

I see where the confusion lies! It’s pushing piston inward, back into the caliper. I’m just used to saying “winding” because of how my pad spreader tool works, that it winds in and thus pushing in the piston. Good luck at the project next week!

Great advice! Never thought of having AF off, guess that will be beneficial for DIY content. Will try that from the next vid 😉

I’m using Amsoil ATL according to Sutphin Tuning (xHP ZF tuner) suggestion. It’s one of the Group 5 oil that can handle more “abused” and severer duties of a tuned transmission, before the fluid starts to break down. According to the specs and info provided by Amsoil, it meets the OE (equivalent) fluid part number (83 22 0 142 516, 83 22 152 146) for the ZF 8 speed transmissions used on these cars. If your transmission is not tuned, OE or OE equivalent will be completely fine for your application. I have had great experience with Liqui Moly ATF 1800 in my previous F30 330ix. Others have also spoken greatly about ZF Lifeguard 8, which is an OE fluid used on these transmissions.

I’ve researched and heard from others that BMW transfer cases are picky with the fluid used, and they can act odd when the “wrong” fluid is used. OEM T-case fluid isn’t ridiculously expensive - unlike their rear diff fluid specifically, I’d stay with OEM unless it’s not an option (i.e. your dealership somehow doesn’t carry them or it’s on backordered indefinitely).

I was mistaken for the drain process, I see you can completely drain the unit so the over all question is, is it ok to switch from oem to redline 75w85

Glad to hear that! For both front and rear differentials, I’m not totally against mixing residue OEM fluids with other aftermarket options - chances are some aftermarket options offer better performance and protections than OEM. However, I don’t think BMW has ever published the information about their recommended or approved viscosity and specs for these drivetrain fluids on the G-chassis, that’s why I’m not too confident about aftermarket options, in terms of which one is “good” to be used.

Genuine BMW wipers are the best, hands down - except for pricing 😂 I don’t know which brand it is that Genuine BMW uses, that’s why I can’t recommend an OE solution to this. But Bosch wiper blades are still very good alternatives!

That’s actually a great question! BMW has not been publishing any official interval for these drivetrain components, as they claim they are “lifetime fluid” in which I went over they are more so referred to lifetime of the vehicle/average timespan of ownership. That said, everyone you speak you is going to have a different opinions on what’s the “proper” interval to change these fluid - because there simply isn’t a “proper” interval. And don’t forget that it generally varies depending on how you drive the car (do you haul anything, do you take the car to the track, do you do mostly city or highways/freeways, etc). However, to get you and anyone to start off with my own opinion: - Transfer Case Fluid: 80k km - Front Differential Fluid: 60k km - Rear Differential Fluid: 60k km - Transmission Fluid (and Filter): 80k km unless it’s tuned then you might want to do it earlier You can definitely go for the fluid change interval mentioned above earlier or later, give or take 10-20k km. The only one I’d say to kind of stick to it is the ZF8 transmission fluid as it’s a bit “picky”. You want to give the original fluid some time to break-in the gears a bit to collect the particles, as well as for the electronics of the transmission to adapt to these changes before you change over to brand new fluid. But fluid change is absolutely necessary, as they oxidize and break down over time, and they lose their properties in their functions. I don’t buy the whole lifetime fluid concept, IMO it’s just to bring down the cost of ownership so BMW or other manufacturers are looked nicely on papers.

If you are trying to tune it, 2020 is THE year you should put into consideration in priority. If you are just trying to enjoy the car as is, 2021 and up is your best choice, where you don’t need to worry about plastic components of oil pump, rear differential cover leaking, etc. In addition to the last one ☝️, if you want a higher tech then the pre-LCI (full digital dashboard vs digital dashboard+another screen for the iDrive system), then 2022+ for the LCI models. Hope this aids with your decision making!

Don’t buy the 2025 m340 because they switched to the b58 tu2 uses the technical updated engine version 2 with port injection. It is having engine failures. Also the mild hybrid version came out in 2022 or 2023 it has a purple cable by the oil housing. So I think 2022 is most reliable

These cars have pretty solid rear differential, other than being a leaky sweaty one 😅 That sounds more like suspensiom issue. I’d check your struts for hydraulic fluid leaks, endlinks for play, the easy and obvious stuff and start from there.

You’re welcome and I appreciate the kind words! I think you’re right, looks like I didn’t mention what to do after fitting the brake components in before going out to bed them in! You’ll have to deactivate the service mode before starting the car - same way how you would activate service mode. I’d just do that at once along with resetting the brake pad wear sensor with the diag tool of your choice, such as Bimmerlink. And just like any other cars after fitting new brake components, ideally you’ll want to slowly depress the brake pedal all the way several of times, to allow the brake system to generate the hydraulic pressure and push back out the brake pistons. After that, you’ll be good to lower the car to the ground and bed the new pads in!