Thanks Justin, I appreciate it. Yeah, it's been quite a journey. I think I'm into rebuilding this truck now something like 4 or 5 years.. it's finally running well and seems to be reliable now. Glad to hear the videos help out.
It's just a 1" ID silicone hose that acts as a stand off to raise the PCV valve up a bit. I put some green cleaning pad in there to try to mitigate oil being sucked up into the PCV system and catch can a bit. It's kinda like a "pre-catch can" almost. Not really needed unless you wanna run higher than normal vacuum levels maybe.
@ray5961 thanks for replying , , I was wondering if you had some suction going on there, but it's an oil residue blowing filter. , i see some folks with the tiny filters on the front of the valve covers right next ro the engine oil fill cap ,and I wondered if that makes a difference , I just got a 71 error code , and have been looking into egr delete since it's a 94 ,and we haven't ever had emissions laws where I'm at ,but I don't wanna just ruin the world... I've seen so many mixed opinions in the egr delete ,if I can clean all the components and clear the code then that's fine ,but the egr alone is over $200 & so many ppl say it works for 100 miles then the code returns . So I'm just deciding to clean it and see what happens, anything over $200 for a part & I gotta wonder am I just wasting money.. ur Thoughts on an EGR delete? It's 94 22re ,212,000 miles on a brand new engine lol 😆 😂 🤣
@@nathan-i-el_messario You can run a breather (aka Small K&N style filter) at the front of the valve cover if you have a motor with carbs - but you should never do that with an EFI motor, as it would be allowing unfiltered air into the motor and will result in things running lean. For an EFI motor, that must be the fresh air breather tube that comes off the throttle body nipple. The EGR system is fairly simple and if you remove it, it's relatively easy to clean and confirm if it's working properly or not. Sometimes the vacuum modulator blows out the diaphragm inside and then things no longer work. Mostly removing or disabling the EGR system will keep the intake manifold cleaner inside and maybe allow for a touch more power in some cases.
I have had my 94 p/u 22re at 4 different mechanics none can fix it symptoms rough idle start up ,spit and sputter for the 1st 1/2 mile on all cold start ups, i have replaced almost every part on it any suggestions ???????
That's probably something related to either the cold start timer and/or the cold start injector. Have you tested both of those? the IAC (idle air control) valve is also a possibility. When you start your truck up, does the idle ramp up to around 1500 RPM's, then slowly settle down? Check to make sure you are getting heat on both the small hoses running to and from the IAC valve. I have a number of videos on the IAC valve and how to ensure it's working correctly. Let me know
I would attack IAC valve first as it is the cheapest out of injectors set, labor involved replacing fuel filter etc. Rays’ videos are the bomb!!! Best guidance ever. My 94 22re pickup has been rebuilt based on that knowledge, by me.
great info as always. unrelated question. what thermostat housing are you using?im looking to add an aftermarket temp gauge and that looks to be the ticket for a sensor.
If I'm not mistaken, those come from the 1984 to 1988 4Runner and pickup. Not easy to find. You have to constantly search eBay for something like "1984-1988 4Runner thermostat housing sensor port" or something along those lines and occasionally they surface used. Be on your toes though, because there is also a cast iron version that weighs a ton. The one you want is the aluminum version, which is much lighter and bolts right on. On mine, I had to drill out the sensor port a little and tap it with a cut down NPT pipe tap in order to to accept the SPAL fan switch. Fun times... they aren't easy to come by with that sensor bung on top, but they are really nice if you want to run a sensor or fan switch right in that location down stream from the thermostat itself.
I bought most all of the Wilwood parts either via Amazon or Summit Racing. It's all custom fabrication. I made all the brackets and adapters in CAD and designed the entire system myself. Many hours of work and a lot of pouring over blueprints at Wilwood's website, etc. I wanna say I have close to $5K into the brake system on the truck, but it's there for when I install the turbo 3RZ motor. I'll tell ya this, even with the lowest pads from Wilwood, the truck stops fast :)
@ray5961 oh snap nevermind then yah I'm planning on keep my 22r forever, but thats too much for me, i thought wilwood had calipers specifically for stock replacement or maybe brembo? I just dont want chinese ones
@@chefrobertcaldas Brembo is very hard to deal with unless you are Ferrari or someone like that. Most of the high performance brake companies are not super retail customer friendly when it comes to getting technical specifications, measurements, etc. Wilwood quality is equal to or perhaps slightly superior to Brembo quality. Wilwood's website also has all technical drawings and information readily available. There are some companies out there which sell bolt on kits for large front rotor/brakes. However, the main one requires 18" rims. I designed my setup around using 17" wheels as I didn't want large rims on my truck. You might be able to swap calipers from some later model Toyota to the pickup, but you quickly start running into issues because of how the stock rotors bolt to the hub vs. later models using a more free floating design. There are also companies that sell rear disc kits, but I had very bad luck dealing with them - the people who run the company are A holes, their products are whack, etc. That's what drove me to design my own system from the ground up. There's not really any cheap or easy solution out there that I know of. Based on what I have learned with brakes, the best thing you can do (short of going all in for thousands of dollars and countless hours) is to get the stock setup working the best you can and then simply upgrade the pad compound and maybe look for drill rotors or something. You might be able to find a slightly larger caliper from a T100 or something, but I don't have any info. Also, when you start changing stuff around, it's important to have a very firm understanding of how hydraulic systems work and the specific mathematics behind making pressure and volume calculations relative to clamping pressure at all four corners as well as brake bias built into the system. Be careful you don't accidentally open Pandora's box like I did w/ my brake upgrade :)
@ray5961 heard on that so LCE performance ive had bad experiences with them as well now i just go thru 22re performance or yota 1, yah ill just get stock toyota calipers dont wanna go down the rabbit hole
@@chefrobertcaldas Never had any problem with LCE. I was referring to one of the off road places that sells some half ass bracket for adapting GM rear rotors. Usually LCE does top notch work. 22RE performance is excellent as well from what I hear too.
A million thanks, you may or may not realize how incredibly valuable you documenting your journey truly is.
Thanks Justin, I appreciate it. Yeah, it's been quite a journey. I think I'm into rebuilding this truck now something like 4 or 5 years.. it's finally running well and seems to be reliable now. Glad to hear the videos help out.
What is that where your ocv valve is? I mean I know its a PCValve but should I get one to add to my oil catch can set up?
It's just a 1" ID silicone hose that acts as a stand off to raise the PCV valve up a bit. I put some green cleaning pad in there to try to mitigate oil being sucked up into the PCV system and catch can a bit. It's kinda like a "pre-catch can" almost. Not really needed unless you wanna run higher than normal vacuum levels maybe.
@ray5961 thanks for replying , , I was wondering if you had some suction going on there, but it's an oil residue blowing filter. , i see some folks with the tiny filters on the front of the valve covers right next ro the engine oil fill cap ,and I wondered if that makes a difference , I just got a 71 error code , and have been looking into egr delete since it's a 94 ,and we haven't ever had emissions laws where I'm at ,but I don't wanna just ruin the world... I've seen so many mixed opinions in the egr delete ,if I can clean all the components and clear the code then that's fine ,but the egr alone is over $200 & so many ppl say it works for 100 miles then the code returns . So I'm just deciding to clean it and see what happens, anything over $200 for a part & I gotta wonder am I just wasting money.. ur Thoughts on an EGR delete? It's 94 22re ,212,000 miles on a brand new engine lol 😆 😂 🤣
@@nathan-i-el_messario You can run a breather (aka Small K&N style filter) at the front of the valve cover if you have a motor with carbs - but you should never do that with an EFI motor, as it would be allowing unfiltered air into the motor and will result in things running lean. For an EFI motor, that must be the fresh air breather tube that comes off the throttle body nipple.
The EGR system is fairly simple and if you remove it, it's relatively easy to clean and confirm if it's working properly or not. Sometimes the vacuum modulator blows out the diaphragm inside and then things no longer work. Mostly removing or disabling the EGR system will keep the intake manifold cleaner inside and maybe allow for a touch more power in some cases.
I have had my 94 p/u 22re at 4 different mechanics none can fix it symptoms rough idle start up ,spit and sputter for the 1st 1/2 mile
on all cold start ups, i have replaced almost every part on it any suggestions ???????
That's probably something related to either the cold start timer and/or the cold start injector. Have you tested both of those? the IAC (idle air control) valve is also a possibility. When you start your truck up, does the idle ramp up to around 1500 RPM's, then slowly settle down? Check to make sure you are getting heat on both the small hoses running to and from the IAC valve. I have a number of videos on the IAC valve and how to ensure it's working correctly. Let me know
@@ray5961 can't tell you how much i appreciate the advice i will let you know the out come.
@@jtaylor-fi5bd sounds good!
I would attack IAC valve first as it is the cheapest out of injectors set, labor involved replacing fuel filter etc. Rays’ videos are the bomb!!! Best guidance ever. My 94 22re pickup has been rebuilt based on that knowledge, by me.
great info as always.
unrelated question.
what thermostat housing are you using?im looking to add an aftermarket temp gauge and that looks to be the ticket for a sensor.
If I'm not mistaken, those come from the 1984 to 1988 4Runner and pickup. Not easy to find. You have to constantly search eBay for something like "1984-1988 4Runner thermostat housing sensor port" or something along those lines and occasionally they surface used. Be on your toes though, because there is also a cast iron version that weighs a ton. The one you want is the aluminum version, which is much lighter and bolts right on. On mine, I had to drill out the sensor port a little and tap it with a cut down NPT pipe tap in order to to accept the SPAL fan switch. Fun times... they aren't easy to come by with that sensor bung on top, but they are really nice if you want to run a sensor or fan switch right in that location down stream from the thermostat itself.
Hey ray where did you get your wilwood brake calipers? Will they fit stock disk brakes for my 87 pickup 2wd
I bought most all of the Wilwood parts either via Amazon or Summit Racing. It's all custom fabrication. I made all the brackets and adapters in CAD and designed the entire system myself. Many hours of work and a lot of pouring over blueprints at Wilwood's website, etc. I wanna say I have close to $5K into the brake system on the truck, but it's there for when I install the turbo 3RZ motor. I'll tell ya this, even with the lowest pads from Wilwood, the truck stops fast :)
@ray5961 oh snap nevermind then yah I'm planning on keep my 22r forever, but thats too much for me, i thought wilwood had calipers specifically for stock replacement or maybe brembo? I just dont want chinese ones
@@chefrobertcaldas Brembo is very hard to deal with unless you are Ferrari or someone like that. Most of the high performance brake companies are not super retail customer friendly when it comes to getting technical specifications, measurements, etc. Wilwood quality is equal to or perhaps slightly superior to Brembo quality. Wilwood's website also has all technical drawings and information readily available. There are some companies out there which sell bolt on kits for large front rotor/brakes. However, the main one requires 18" rims. I designed my setup around using 17" wheels as I didn't want large rims on my truck. You might be able to swap calipers from some later model Toyota to the pickup, but you quickly start running into issues because of how the stock rotors bolt to the hub vs. later models using a more free floating design. There are also companies that sell rear disc kits, but I had very bad luck dealing with them - the people who run the company are A holes, their products are whack, etc. That's what drove me to design my own system from the ground up. There's not really any cheap or easy solution out there that I know of. Based on what I have learned with brakes, the best thing you can do (short of going all in for thousands of dollars and countless hours) is to get the stock setup working the best you can and then simply upgrade the pad compound and maybe look for drill rotors or something. You might be able to find a slightly larger caliper from a T100 or something, but I don't have any info. Also, when you start changing stuff around, it's important to have a very firm understanding of how hydraulic systems work and the specific mathematics behind making pressure and volume calculations relative to clamping pressure at all four corners as well as brake bias built into the system. Be careful you don't accidentally open Pandora's box like I did w/ my brake upgrade :)
@ray5961 heard on that so LCE performance ive had bad experiences with them as well now i just go thru 22re performance or yota 1, yah ill just get stock toyota calipers dont wanna go down the rabbit hole
@@chefrobertcaldas Never had any problem with LCE. I was referring to one of the off road places that sells some half ass bracket for adapting GM rear rotors. Usually LCE does top notch work. 22RE performance is excellent as well from what I hear too.
Did you remove the idle damper pot part?
The dash pot? No, it's still on there, but I have it adjusted such that it doesn't do anything.
I removed mine from my 94’ with zero side effects