He will be stronger he will be faster ..could have been worse it could have happened in the middle of nowhere mile and miles from home this is a blessing in disguise
I hate to ever see anyone have bad luck. I would suggest building it back with non ic pistons. Having run the same 3 sets of injectors in both my crew cab and my 89 the 89 is much cleaner burning in typical city driving and I believe that is from the better piston bowls. You probably need to check your cam though. There is no good reason for your valve lash to have gotten that loose unless there is an issue. I have done several heads using the Goodson heavy duty 12v springs and no issues over the last 5 or 6 years and one of those engines I did for a guy I know has over 100k miles on it
@ both of my trucks are fire ringed. As long as you can find someone to cut the radiused grooves it should last a long time. 625 or 14mm studs are pretty much a must though to get the fire rings to crush properly. Doing several re torques is necessary as well till everything settles in.
Sorry this happened. I would recommend having the head fully inspected, if rebuildable, go back with nitrided stem inconel exhaust valves, nitrided stem stainless intakes. Good retainers, keepers and springs and oring the head along with best quality head studs. Those compounds really build cylinder pressure. The nitrided stems are a surface hardening procedure that helps with wear. Keep us informed, I really enjoy your builds.
This year I had everything go wrong on my 31 year old D350. First I installed a Turbinator stage 1.5 in January. Then I sheared an ARP head bolt near cylinder 3 exhaust - had to TIG weld another bolt to it get it out. Then sheared every carrier bolt in the DANA 70 LSD. Then A/C issues. Then u-joints. Then NV4500 a month+ ago. And just added some Dynamic Diesel Stage 2 injectors. Now it seems to be running nice, but the bank account is suffering. Also, had terrible failure rate with Stant Lever Radiator Caps - they wouldn't last a month. Replaced cap with non-lever style and all is good. Also installed a coolant pressure gauge to go with the water temperature gauge.
If I ever rebuild and paint my 12v I'll use something besides black because I want to be able to see any leaks right away. Orange, neon green, bright red or something along those lines.
I’m pretty sure they are Hamilton beehive springs. I used the same ones on my truck after you installed yours. I noticed the hungry diesel doesn’t sell them anymore. Makes me wonder if this a common problem with them?
They are still the best springs out there. This was a fluke. I'm talked to plenty of guys who have never seen this happen to a Hamilton spring. I also talked to Zach Hamilton and he's baffled too and wants to help make it right.
Take it from a fellow first gen owner and replace all the piston rings and have the cyclinder head cut for fire rings you will lower your crankcase pressure and keep you from poping the headgasket with all that fuel and boost
Bummer, but while you have it apart you have the perfect opportunity to put a Hamilton cam shaft and lifters in it! With compounds you could easily support a Hamilton 188/220. I suspect that would take you well past the goal of 600. They have complete packages with valve springs, lifters,etc…
I thought you said the truck would not go into gear when you were broke down on the highway. Was that a separate issue or somehow related to this valve issue?
Thats sucks. Mine lost boost (maybe fuel or injection pump issue) on Monday on the way to work. Engine runs fine just cant maintain speed on the highway. Turbo seems okay but got lots of things to look at.
You got insanely lucky that the cylinder didn't get fucked. Honestly thats the best type of failure. Decently cheap for a total show stopper failure you get to pull the engine and have a good laugh at the end. Sorta had that with a ring gear on my 80 w150. Starter wasnt kicking out all the way chewed it up so it was a drop and replace all in 3 hours. It cost me nothing put me up against the clock and was honestly fun. Yeah this wont be free but still you asked for this pushing more power and now comes the hard work. Still sucks to have that happen though. 1000hp when?
They are 165# Hamiltons. I'm guessing this was a complete fluke. I've talked to Zach Hamilton about it and he is baffled and wants to make it right. I still believe these are the best springs out there.
I was talking to a guy. I can’t remember his name he’s in Ohio. He has a Mustang and his small block. He’s turning like 8000 RPM and he’s real fast and the guys are very professional man. He said he had his vow springs cryogenically dipped anyhow he’s running 1000 pounds over the nose on his springs, I don’t know if that would be good for our application or not, but something to look into this six in a row Jim from Kennerdell pa
Dang brother. Hate to see that, but you're right. It could've been a lot worse. Looking forward to seeing all the powder coated covers when you're done. Oh, and let us know what brand of valve springs that was when you figure it out. Nice informative video, though.
I got a fresh 1996 12 valve with rebuilt P-pump (841), brand new 60lb head, 5x14 injectors, 4k gov springs, all new bearings and gaskets, fly-cut pedestals, head studs, etc., I'll sell you. $6k
The cool thing is your super close to Industrial Injection Diesel Performance, I know they ain’t cheap. But you pay what you get for. Hopefully it all ends well, with that motor. Stay positive brother
You know what just came to mind was what if you did one of industrial injections '12 valve builder box' kits. The stage one kits like $8300 bucks. I think it's exactly what you need. I mean it's more than you need to get it going again...but like your at a cross road here, you can go one way and back to stock OE'ish build with some little upgrades here and there but at some point it's gunna happen again I think? Or you go go the other way and turn 'left' and do it right and do it bullet proof! And be able to throw anything you want at it and not have a worry in the world. There really simple motors to put together. The industrial injection builder box kit would be a neat mini series for ya to do for the channel I think! Go check them out, think about and let everyone know what ya your thinking! A p pumped 24v would be cool to! That'd be the ultimate upgrade improvement. Blocks are the same, pistons and heads a different. Let's say your heads junk, get. 24v head and new 24v pistons, use your 12v rods. And swap out the VE rotary pump for a p7100 set up! Now that's an idea!
Sorry for the break of the valve spring, love that your of the belief to make Lemonade, be strong and buy the best valve components that are out there, some of the cone shaped valve springs ❔️😉 😊 once stung,😅. 😮oh, what about the trans not going into gear? A rebuild? for compounds while it's right there? Wish you the best on your refresh. OH #2, The trailer looks awesome, are you going to rebuild it when time allows it❔️And can it be lengthened while your at it❔️ Again all the best to You, you have a great attitude 😊. ✌🏻🧡 🇨🇦. P.S. engine swap❔️🤔
Silver lining ..... could have been much, much worse. Build back stronger with upgraded parts since you have cranked it up. Cummins has the nick name comeapart for a reason. I still prefer them over any other light duty truck diesel engine. Inline 6 is the way to go.
Cuts with a cut off wheel and wonders why there’s glitter in the filter
He will be stronger he will be faster ..could have been worse it could have happened in the middle of nowhere mile and miles from home this is a blessing in disguise
So true!
I hate to ever see anyone have bad luck. I would suggest building it back with non ic pistons. Having run the same 3 sets of injectors in both my crew cab and my 89 the 89 is much cleaner burning in typical city driving and I believe that is from the better piston bowls. You probably need to check your cam though. There is no good reason for your valve lash to have gotten that loose unless there is an issue. I have done several heads using the Goodson heavy duty 12v springs and no issues over the last 5 or 6 years and one of those engines I did for a guy I know has over 100k miles on it
Yeah I plan on going to the non ic pistons for sure. What are your thoughts on oring vs fire ring?
@ both of my trucks are fire ringed. As long as you can find someone to cut the radiused grooves it should last a long time. 625 or 14mm studs are pretty much a must though to get the fire rings to crush properly. Doing several re torques is necessary as well till everything settles in.
@@bcbloc02 gotcha, I was hoping to reuse my 425s but I guess I'll have to upgrade haha
Sorry this happened. I would recommend having the head fully inspected, if rebuildable, go back with nitrided stem inconel exhaust valves, nitrided stem stainless intakes. Good retainers, keepers and springs and oring the head along with best quality head studs. Those compounds really build cylinder pressure. The nitrided stems are a surface hardening procedure that helps with wear. Keep us informed, I really enjoy your builds.
I have compounds my 96 makes 70lbs boost i ran stock valve springs for 3 years than went to 60lb springs no issues so far
Sorry to see this man
What a great excuse to rebuild and create something awesome. Can’t wait to see it. 🇺🇸👍🏻
“Piston-assisted valve closures” 😂
If you listen, Kevin is hilarious but quiet 😂
This year I had everything go wrong on my 31 year old D350. First I installed a Turbinator stage 1.5 in January. Then I sheared an ARP head bolt near cylinder 3 exhaust - had to TIG weld another bolt to it get it out. Then sheared every carrier bolt in the DANA 70 LSD. Then A/C issues. Then u-joints. Then NV4500 a month+ ago. And just added some Dynamic Diesel Stage 2 injectors. Now it seems to be running nice, but the bank account is suffering. Also, had terrible failure rate with Stant Lever Radiator Caps - they wouldn't last a month. Replaced cap with non-lever style and all is good. Also installed a coolant pressure gauge to go with the water temperature gauge.
I get it I made it to 550 whp in my first gen and been fighting transmission issues recently even with my fmvb
I had a similar issue with beehive valve springs. I will not use beehive springs again. Check the connecting rod. Definitely will need push rod
Quality control is not what it used to be apparently. Weak spot in the steel probably caused it.
Go back with speed of air pistons.. please haha I’m super curious about them
Haha, I'm curious about those too but dont want to pay the price to find out
If I ever rebuild and paint my 12v I'll use something besides black because I want to be able to see any leaks right away. Orange, neon green, bright red or something along those lines.
Makes me glad I put Hamilton 103lbs spring in my 24v. That really sucks
These are Hamilton 165# springs. Just a fluke.
I’m pretty sure they are Hamilton beehive springs. I used the same ones on my truck after you installed yours. I noticed the hungry diesel doesn’t sell them anymore. Makes me wonder if this a common problem with them?
They are still the best springs out there. This was a fluke. I'm talked to plenty of guys who have never seen this happen to a Hamilton spring. I also talked to Zach Hamilton and he's baffled too and wants to help make it right.
Well that’s good to hear. Thanks
Would really like to know what brand those where I have a set ready to put in my truck but definitely not sure anymore
They are Hamilton 165s. Definitely a fluke as I've talked to many guys who have never seen a Hamilton break.
Take it from a fellow first gen owner and replace all the piston rings and have the cyclinder head cut for fire rings you will lower your crankcase pressure and keep you from poping the headgasket with all that fuel and boost
Yep, those are all in the plans
Bummer, but while you have it apart you have the perfect opportunity to put a Hamilton cam shaft and lifters in it! With compounds you could easily support a Hamilton 188/220. I suspect that would take you well past the goal of 600. They have complete packages with valve springs, lifters,etc…
I thought you said the truck would not go into gear when you were broke down on the highway. Was that a separate issue or somehow related to this valve issue?
Time for a dually build
Thats sucks. Mine lost boost (maybe fuel or injection pump issue) on Monday on the way to work. Engine runs fine just cant maintain speed on the highway. Turbo seems okay but got lots of things to look at.
You got insanely lucky that the cylinder didn't get fucked. Honestly thats the best type of failure. Decently cheap for a total show stopper failure you get to pull the engine and have a good laugh at the end. Sorta had that with a ring gear on my 80 w150. Starter wasnt kicking out all the way chewed it up so it was a drop and replace all in 3 hours. It cost me nothing put me up against the clock and was honestly fun. Yeah this wont be free but still you asked for this pushing more power and now comes the hard work.
Still sucks to have that happen though. 1000hp when?
Yep, it's the name of the game with horse power.
What brand valve springs are those ? I heard Beehives are junk ? I bought white stripe 60lbs springs that are from cummins it says. Are those good ?
They are 165# Hamiltons. I'm guessing this was a complete fluke. I've talked to Zach Hamilton about it and he is baffled and wants to make it right. I still believe these are the best springs out there.
Rotten luck but could have been much much worse. Now you have a good reason to do a whole tear down rebuild series again!
That's how I see it!
Hola amigo cómo estás saludos acá de Austin Texas Freddy Delgado ánimo son cosas que pasan ánimo saludos y bendiciones
I would absolutely change all the valve springs. Don't know what brand to go with but maybe spend good money on that.
Since you're so far into the teardown you should put the wide bowl pistons in
That's the plan 👍
@@decentgarage if mine ever grenades on me that's my plan I can't stand the small bowl piston
I was talking to a guy. I can’t remember his name he’s in Ohio. He has a Mustang and his small block. He’s turning like 8000 RPM and he’s real fast and the guys are very professional man. He said he had his vow springs cryogenically dipped anyhow he’s running 1000 pounds over the nose on his springs, I don’t know if that would be good for our application or not, but something to look into this six in a row Jim from Kennerdell pa
Dang brother. Hate to see that, but you're right. It could've been a lot worse. Looking forward to seeing all the powder coated covers when you're done. Oh, and let us know what brand of valve springs that was when you figure it out. Nice informative video, though.
I got a fresh 1996 12 valve with rebuilt P-pump (841), brand new 60lb head, 5x14 injectors, 4k gov springs, all new bearings and gaskets, fly-cut pedestals, head studs, etc., I'll sell you. $6k
I'm going to stick with this motor. Thanks though!
@@decentgarage Just thought I'd ask.
SUCK! please share spring brand, ive got a couple uped for exh/brake
These are Hamilton 165# springs. The best you can buy. I'm thinking this was a total fluke.
Can you help with a getrag speedo gear housing
You forgot to say gonna get a front cover and 215 pump in your list of parts….
Ain't gunnu happen! The VE is just so much better
The cool thing is your super close to Industrial Injection Diesel Performance, I know they ain’t cheap. But you pay what you get for. Hopefully it all ends well, with that motor. Stay positive brother
Your valve hella melted bro.
You know what just came to mind was what if you did one of industrial injections '12 valve builder box' kits. The stage one kits like $8300 bucks. I think it's exactly what you need. I mean it's more than you need to get it going again...but like your at a cross road here, you can go one way and back to stock OE'ish build with some little upgrades here and there but at some point it's gunna happen again I think? Or you go go the other way and turn 'left' and do it right and do it bullet proof! And be able to throw anything you want at it and not have a worry in the world.
There really simple motors to put together. The industrial injection builder box kit would be a neat mini series for ya to do for the channel I think! Go check them out, think about and let everyone know what ya your thinking!
A p pumped 24v would be cool to! That'd be the ultimate upgrade improvement. Blocks are the same, pistons and heads a different. Let's say your heads junk, get. 24v head and new 24v pistons, use your 12v rods. And swap out the VE rotary pump for a p7100 set up! Now that's an idea!
Great ideas but I'm sticking with VE and going to rebuild this motor.
Sorry for the break of the valve spring, love that your of the belief to make Lemonade, be strong and buy the best valve components that are out there, some of the cone shaped valve springs ❔️😉 😊 once stung,😅.
😮oh, what about the trans not going into gear? A rebuild? for compounds while it's right there?
Wish you the best on your refresh.
OH #2, The trailer looks awesome, are you going to rebuild it when time allows it❔️And can it be lengthened while your at it❔️ Again all the best to You, you have a great attitude 😊. ✌🏻🧡 🇨🇦.
P.S. engine swap❔️🤔
Silver lining ..... could have been much, much worse. Build back stronger with upgraded parts since you have cranked it up. Cummins has the nick name comeapart for a reason. I still prefer them over any other light duty truck diesel engine. Inline 6 is the way to go.
So true