The Ford dealer in Bastrop, Texas tried telling my sister her water pump went out or needed replaced after they did some recall work. Thanks to your video, I changed that sensor out and her car worked fine. Saved her $1700 Ford tried charging her. Thank you for taking time to make this video 8 years ago
“Shy away from the dealer”. Best words of wisdom ever. I’d rather pay more money and have peace of mind than pay less and have more issues down the road.
I have to say that you were my savior. I've been working on this car all afternoon, evening, night, and now morning. I've been trying to figure this out for the past 18 hours. Changed thermostat and water pump with no change. Thank you for the information
You're totally a great mechanic also telling us what socket to use i knew it was 19 m socket when i broke the old one but i was scared to put the new one in on my 2009 ford focus now i looked into my old tools i found a craftsman 19m socket, man u saved me a hassle big time thank u bro.
Another point. My dad took his car to Jiffy Lube for an oil change. They noticed some type of fluid leak. Since the car is a Pontiac my dad took it to the Pontiac dealership. An estimate of $1300 to replace the oil pan gasket and a CV joints. Fortunately my dad said no way. Instead he took it to our local mechanic and Graniteville, SC. It was not an engine oil leak. There was a loose hose on the power steering. The end result is that he saved almost $1000 by not taking it to the dealership and getting a correct diagnosis.
Yeah my wife's Yukon has been riding ruff. Dealer said $1800 front struts were leaking. I bought the AC/delco shocks from Amazon. Had local shop put on. Shocks were only $300. Got out less than $800. But vehicle still rides like crap. Very bouncy. So I did research online. Found there is a TSB. You go into gmc website type in Vin. It showed the ride control had a software update to address this. I printed out screen shots of everything, weblink all information to make it simple. It has a part number for the update. I gave them all of this. It even says this addresses the ruff ride. These are magnetic shocks and computer controlled. Took to dealer today. They called me said their tech said we just needed new shocks. I said yeah we already replaced them. He said they didn't know what I was talking about with the updates. I'm like this is your GMC website, your TSB and you dont know what to do? There like yes don't know what your talking bout. So gotta pick it up today. I at a loss for words. I work on Toshiba equipment for a living. I have similar prosess for updates that come out. It's something I could do, I just don't have the programs they do to download and update it. So I don't know who to trust.....
I have a 2001 Ford Focus SE. Lucky for me through the years, my parts were still originals for 16 years, but then I got the overheating when driving 30 mph down residential streets. I learned the exhaust fans weren't coming on when engine gets hot. They do come on when AC is running. I changed the temperature switch and alternator while at it. When finished, the engine sounded way better and more powerful, but still had overheat. I changed the Thermostat. But no. After a lot of researching online and you tube, I finally found one thing on you tube I hadn't seen before. The resistor connected to the fans. The resistor wires are connected to the temperature switch. It activates the fans if the engine gets hot with no AC running. The connectors were both fried. After changing resistor, it worked and no more overheating.
Hey I just wanted to thank you for these videos... This one in particular. I bought a used 2012 escape from a non ford dealer a few weeks ago in a pinch in winter and used your trans fluid change video then just got stuck on the side of the freeway in the Dakotas and found this video. It literally saved me a tow truck ride in the middle of the night (and I have to work in the morning) I had the overheat and CEL and felt the engine and it wasn't that warm... Googled fake Ford Escape overheat and found another one of your videos. Pulled the plug for the coolant sensor and sure enough that cup in the plug is full of water. I used some paper towel to soak the water out of the male sensor cup part. I dunno if the dealer pressure washed the engine or what but I made it home with no other problems. Sincerely thanks.
My 2009 Ford Focus was having an issue going cold. Changed out the thermostat, and while doing so found a leak in the radiator. Replaced the radiator. Put vacuum on system and filled with coolant. Same thing was happening. Replaced the cylinder head temperature sensor and valve cover gaskets. No further issues.
Honestly Brian, I think you are just a good tech because in my town even dealers can't even fix a ham sandwich and every concern you tell them is always considered "normal operation"
In this situation would looking at the data pid vs infrared have been a dead giveaway? I'm surprised the independent didn't do that first and went straight to parts
this is exactly what was wrong with my car. two things different, 1 - on my vehicle, the sensor was intermittent. It was until I replaced it I was able to find out that it was the cause to the problem I was experiencing. Which brings me to the second finding, opposite to what video is talking about. on my car the temp indicator wasn't even moving. Additionally, the fan was coming on as soon as I start the car even on a cold morning. the replacement was supper easy. I torqued the sensor as I would for a spark plug. Over all this was a good informational video to help identify and fix the problem. Thanks FordTechMakuloco
Couldn’t find proper deep 19mm or 3/4 socket. Ran thru all the tools and parts store in town. Ended up cutting a 3/4 deep socket in half and welded it to another deep 3/4 socket, worked like a charm in case anybody ever ends up in the same situation.
From one Brian to another...thank you! I replaced the thermostat in my wife's 2009 escape and it had obvious air pockets. It actually put out heat in the cabin, which it didn't do before, however after awhile it overheated again! UGH! Just checked for codes and wouldn't you know it P1299 "Cylinder head overtemp protection active" in other words....bad sensor. The many videos I started to watch were not the correct placement of the sensor, until THIS one!! So, again.....THANK YOU!!
Thanks again Brian for you to share with us your wealth of knowledge. I was having on my 2010 Focus with 2.0 Duratec the cooling fan on high speed with a cold engine. Its November now here in Quebec and somehow cold with snow. The cylinder head temperature sensor was giving the pcm false informations. There was no codes, no check engine light, just my cooling fan going on at full blast when it shouldn’t. The temperature gauge on the cluster was reaching it’s (normal) indication faster then normal as a clue. The temperature would stay there, no weird indications. I did use a 3/4´´Deep socket 12 sided from Performance Tool. It was just perfect to complete the task. Once again, many thanks!
Thank you very much!!! I had this problem for 2.5 years on my 2004 Focus 2.3 liter and with your help I was able to fix the problem. Prior to your valuable information, I changed the radiator myself and problem continued.
Thank you for the video! Had a 17 focus 2.0 I did a engine on and I was having misfires and false overheating. Pulled the connector and it was soaked with water. Blew it out with compressed air and engine is running like it should 👍👍👍
you are very smart on these fords, my escape is doing the same thing, The temp gauge would peg over to hot and then drop back down, engine light is on, they plugged it in and a P1299 code came up, they couldnt tell me what that was.....(hmmmm) I found you on here years ago when i was searching about the drivers axle seal leaking on my escape, i talked to you and i had thought about driving out to your place so you could change my seal, but it has not got any worse i might have to add a few ounces of atf twice a year ( and i only use type LV ) in my book you are the ford man, you really know what to do and how to do it,,,,thx again i will go out now and check that plug for corrosion and scrape some off if possible... kinda adds up i had just lightly sprayed my motor compartment with a hose just the other day.......(imagine that ) thx again ,,, #1 ford mechanic...Oh btw i have 95000 on my little 4 cly escape now, only use motocraft synthetic blend every 3500 miles,,,, no problems,,, except for new belt and idler pullys last year.......thx guy, have a great day......
I've got a 17 Escape Titanium with the 2.0. It started misfiring and saying it was overheating when the ambient temp was 50 degrees and the car had just been started and run a half mile down the road. I hope that this is my issue. I usually wouldn't go to the dealer, but I've had my doubts whether or not an independent mechanic could diagnose the problem. There are coolant intrusion issues with the ford ecotec engines, and it's been spooking me to no end. Wish me luck folks, and THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO.
Thanks for this video, very helpful. I would like to ask you why the two fans keep working even with cold weather. I have no issues or sensors activated
I have a Fusion v6 and I'm having problems with engine overheating. Works all day normally, but when I accelerate a little stronger, the temperature rises, sometimes little, sometimes a lot and then down to normal temperature. Already changed the radiator, water pump, did cleaning of the system apparently is not mixing water with oil and the car in no time failure. Have you seen this? I know the car boils, because if I open the water reservoir, the water jumps all out.
I still have not solved my problem, I replaced thermostatic valve, water pump, belt temperature sensor and radiator. My mechanic is suspicious that it may be the automatic transmission that is heating 6F35. Case you find out anything please let me know. Tanks.
I’m having a similar issue with my 2013 fusion 1.6. It’s about 50 degrees here in arizona and I’ll do a cold start and in about 15 mins my cooling fans will turn on and my temp gauge will spike up and get close to the redline. If I drive around the cooling fans turn off and the temp will go back down to normal (a bit below the middle mark). If I make a stop for a few minutes, the cooling fans will turn back on and repeat the overheating shown on the temp gauge. There’s also no check engine or codes. What do you think it is?
Excellent video. We attempted to install the new sensor using the 19mm socket, while tighing the sensor, it broke from the shaft going into the sensor threads. Do you just hand tork it? Thanks
Thanks this solve my issue on my 2010 focus .my temperature gauge will not work sometimes and red temperate light will come on. Now it runs like new .. you can remove the sensor using a weed eater Spark Plug Wrench, It is deep enough and you can get it at home Depot . Hope this helps.. thanks
Used a weed eater spark plug tool myself, it works, just barely but it works. Easier than trying to find a bit that has no shoulder. Damn near impossible.
Copy dat my friend . Thats whats happening to my moms car . It wasnt overheating but gauge was indicating so. Car went into protection mode "i guess " . Itll start up fine but accelerator unresponsive , eng cold by this time also. Thankyou for eassuring me that this problem exist. So helpful for me man, god bless u bro.
I think you just diagnosed you issue to a t. My transit connect will falsely overheat and runs in limp home mode. Engine isn’t hot because I pulled into a gas station and ran cold water over radiator. No change in heat. Turned van off then on, problem went away for awhile. I also had a code for cylinder 4 misfire. I will check the plugs as well.
I have a ford escape limited 05 and the engine keeps over heating and the dash doesn't read that its hot so the engine keeps trying to warm itself up idk what to do n after u cant turn it back on idk what to do
Hey Brian! My wife just had an issue with 2013 Ford Escape Titanium Ecoboost. Something blew, a hose, radiator or something. I popped the hood b/c the code read on my reader P1255 and notice green fluid. Thus it slowed the engine down to low throttle to avoid over heating and low power. Couldn't even get it up the slanted driveway into the garage. I put coolant in and right away noticed it pouring out the bottom. Gotta have it towed to the mechanic. While it's there it needs the wipers worked on b/c those aren't responding. SOme days I want to ring Ford engineers by the neck! I try to stay loyal to my home state but Ford has been falling fast from favor with me. I have a 2010 Fusion SE I bought used. Running great for now.
I’m having a problem with my 2013 Ford Escape I had my water pump changed and I algo changed both the engine belt and timing belt also replaced the head gasket and the check engine light does not come on so I’m not sure what’s going on the ac also makes it overheat faster do you thing it’s that sensor or air pockets?
Does that sensor set in or over a well for coolant? If so that would be a much easier home fix for clearing the air from inside the block during a coolant fill. I’m asking because I’m in this pain now. Small leak identified but unlocatable during vacuum filling since there’s no liquid to leak. It’s been a long week on this
Great video! I have a 2010 Mercury Mariner with the 2.5 it had a bad tensioner and was throwing the belt. It had the code for the CHT but I thought it was because of the fact that it was running without a belt. After replacing we drive it for about 10 to 15 minutes then it doesn't start. I cleared codes after replacing tensioner and belt and I'm still getting the CHT code. I connected a scan tool and the CHT reads -40 degrees I checked just like in the video but the sensor looks good but I noticed the connector does not lock on the sensor. Should I replace the connector or both the sensor and the connector? Would an incorrect temp reading cause the crank no start issue?
Thanks for the video. I'm having this same issue with my Escape. I've looked everywhere but have been unable to find a 19mm deep socket with a deep enough shoulder. Do you happen to know the Craftsman part# for your socket?
thanks for posting! it's best to be our own advocates ( esp if you're a female) and not get taken advantage of. and YES I AM a female but far from dumb on automotive..I learn alot from your videos. and have taken automotive classes.. but technology is always changing, so learning never stops.
I got a 2017 escape 2.0 that reads ect at 180-200 but once you give it gas the cht goes to 240-320 even 350 if you really step on it. replaced the cht/thermostat and still same condition
Any ideas what the issue could be for a fusion 2014 1.5 L ecoboost? Its overheating and reads the coolant temperature sensor, changed it, and a week later its overheating again reading the same code. I did learn through Ford this year fusion does not have a cylinder head temp sensor.
2011 escape same problems as described in video. Question how do you remove the cap and or gasket around the cht I'll add that this model has two cht one on each Cylander head cover
I have a transit connect. It happened about 4 minutes of leaving home. I can view live data. How can I determine if the sensor is reading the incorrect temp?
How far up that deep well 19mm socket is needed before the shoulder so it will fit? What make of socket is that? Im having a hard time finding a socket where the shoulder inside is deep enough. The best i found was only 3/4" deep.
I've had this happen to many 05 focuses 2.0.I put in a new one from O'Reillys and it threw a code for thermostatic threshold.theyve updated that part and the actual part that sits in the passage is smaller on the new one. Even on the ford lucky me I found the original OEM ones in the junkyard.2 years later no codes on anyone of the ones I've replaced on mine and customers cars. I like working on one brand its a lot easier for diagnosis and it helps with book hours. Its great going from a ford to a Mercedes Benz
Dude I hit a cow November 2018 and my 2010 fusion which has been a great car took the hit like a champ drove away after the accident has had so many problems with tho cooling system lately and I know very little about cars but your videos have helped me out sooooo so much thanks for all the videos and help
Cool, I was wondering what that threaded area was on my mazda 6 motor. Wonder why mazda deleted that part?? Mazda also made a cover to cover for the spark plugs, fuel rail area as well.
I could have similar problem getting misfire on cylinders 1-2-3 (PO301-PO303) figured boots or coils are bad so I replaced still misfire hadn’t had plugs in a while so installed running better but still rough at idle and check engine light back put code reader on and reading PO302 could be that temperature sensor?
I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 2.3L. The CHT was replaced by the previous owner and it was a botched job. While I was trying to fix it correctly, the wires from the truck came apart from the new pigtail. So, can you tell me how they hook up correctly? Pigtail wires are white and black. Truck wires are yellow/green line and grey/red line. Any help appreciated!
@FORDTECHMAKULOCO.....I have 2016 Fusion Hybrid, my daughter hit a piece of shredded tractor trailer tire the other day. Lot of cosmetic damage to the front driver side of bumper. but no it is throwing the engine coolant over temperature but there are no codes when I hook up the code scanner. and from what I can tell, there are no wires or plug-in that are damaged from the tire piece. Would this be something I need to check out for a possible false overheat? Never had an issue until that morning.
Great video. I have a 2002 ford escape 3.0 and I have changed the radiator, water pump, and the thermostat. I still have a over heating issue and no heat inside. Any ideas on what it might be. I think there is a small crack in the overflow but not 100% sure.
As long as the thermostat is not in backwards and the head is not cracked I say you now have an air lock situation I recommend this tool to get it out- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002SRH5G&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=7CWFQMMBUMINZ2OD
I will have to check that out. The Truck has clean oil in the oil pan and no white smoke so I don't think the head is blown. Thermostat went in the way it came out. One thing I did notice that I thought was weird , was after I changed the water pump, radiator and the thermostat when I refilled the overflow tank it did not take a lot of antifreeze. Nor did hardly any come out of the hoses when removed from radiator, thermostat and water pump. And is there a bleeding valve on the system? Thank you very much info.
Good Info, is there a similar problem with false under temp readings and setting codes? I have a 2005 Escape hybrid that will set a P0128 under temp code, not sure if this is thermostat or sensor issue. never had this code pop up until after i cleaned the engine compartment. I can clear the code but it will come back sometimes in a few days or in a few weeks. I have not been in a big hurry to fix it since under heat will only lose a little fuel mileage.
+Jack Lance P0128 are pretty common on Fords 4 cylinder engines especially the 2.3L and 2.5L 95% of the time the thermostat is the cause of the concern we replace allot of them. Just be sure to use the Ford unit. Also be sure to vacuum fill the engine or you will have overheating issues next see here-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002SRH5G&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=5ADJ42YIPPCCAKVT
Hey Brian. Thanks for all the explanation and very informative video. Definitely helped me today and I'm sure that it will help many more. Also, I like the background music as I too am a man of faith. Take care and God Bless.
The rubber boot on the connector is ripped and is making a slapping sound even after changing both the sensor and the pigtail. Any suggestions on what to check for next??
My car will not start sometimes and we hooked it up to a check, and the only code that came up was "P1289 Cylinder Head Temp Sensor" could this be the reason why it is not starting?
I have a 13’ Fusion 1.5 Eco. Just recently the heat would not work if sitting still, and now it is over heating quickly in 50 degree weather. CHT? Or Thermostat?
My 2015 1.5 fusion is still saying coolant head temp I replaced it .I also replaced the thermostat was great for 2 weeks but now it's saying the same thing..🤔
Same engine heat alert and sensor failure. Twice in my driveway and once at Ford quick lane. In quick lane, they were draining coolant and refilling. They could not restart car without the heat sensor issue. Under Elite warranty and Ford gave me loaner each tome. Took them several days in the shop to fix each tome. Not fuzzy warm about reliability of my 2014 escape. Love my car, but not sure I will buy another one??? I have what I recall is the British engine built one. I recall the other engine available was built in Mexico. I have the smaller engine, but titanium model.
So I have a 2012 w/ a 2.5 and 188k miles and have a really strong vibration in gear when cold. smooths out a bit when hitting operating temp but doesn't go away completely unless I'm in neutral or park. could this be the issue? I've swapped out all 4 mounts already. I have no engine codes.
So question I have a check engine light for this part your talking about on my 2014 fusion does everything needing to be vacuumed down on the coolant system does that apply to when you change the coolant head temp sensor?
I went to Ford dealership with my 2013 Ford Escape and they replaced a relay & thermostat saying it'll never happen again. well so much for a Ford Dealership my SUV still overheats when in gear and sitting at a redlight or in traffic for more than 15 min So seeing how Ford can't fix it what's your thoughts on my problem could it be this or not? Thanks for any help as no one can fix my problem
I have a 2013 I bought in 2016 and it has over heated 4 times on me in the first 3 months, I took it to the "dealer" they told me it was the battery which was not the case, then it was a sensor they replaced them still overheating then they couldn't find anything and still charged me. took to a midas shop where I gt all my other work done they informed me they had 20-25 escapes and called ford to no end and no fix was found. So my question to you if you can help is this, what would cause my car to overheat while waiting in traffic or in line at Dunkin Donuts? it has no overheating while driving only when sitting in gear and it don't matter summer or in the cold of winter here in Vermont I would love to be able to go to my dealer but they are not able to fix it so please any help would be very nice vs waiting for it to shut down or even catch fire Thanks you once more for any help Paul Taylo
@@jaymelynn9835 no and it's still doing it, I just learned to live with putting it in netutal when I stop and go without the AC when not moving Ford promised me it was fixed 😔 3 years ago and it's not doubt if it ever will be
I have a 1998 Ford Crown Vic it is reading overheating after driving it a while my temperature does not read it stays at 1 bar just recently replaced the cylinder head temperature sensor (yesterday) radiator (2015), water pump(2014) , electric fan(2014), thermostat(last month), coolant temperature sensor radiator (last week) main hose, hose to thermostat raidtor, and other hose (2014) it just stop reading or staying at one bar on my digital dash December 2015
I have a 2013 1.6L Escape and the Engine Coolant Temp sensor is stuck open. I purchased the sensor from Ford dealership and it looks nothing like the one in your video. Is there that big of a difference from the 1.6L to the 2.5L? Where is the location of the engine coolant sensor on the 1.6L eco boost?
Thanks for the video. I didn't catch where you said that the water is coming from since its screwed into a dry hole. I have the 2.0 liter Transit. After it has been driven water is coming a bit out of the top of the boot. What do you think?
check the heater hose as it turns toward rear,, from the front of the engine whole hose is $90. I replaced from joint to the rear connection. T-connection broke and blew antifreeze everywhere.
@@curt6531 I need to check every hose. I still smell some antifreeze. It's a really small leak. I might replace all of the hoses since I have 110,000 on it and keep the old ones for spares. I also have a slight seeping from oil pan or hopefully not the rear seal.
So my temp gauge spiked driving to work yesterday. It spikes while driving, and drops while idling. It did it again this morning. I have no heat when idling, but heat works when driving. I just bled my cooling system. It did have air in it, and bleeding it seems to have helped, but I noticed when I pulled the cover off the CHT sensor to check that, that I have what looks like used motor oil pooled down in there. I have a 2007 with 160,000 miles on it and I am imagining the worst with that oil being in there.
My 1.6L eco fusion has recently thrown a cylinder head temp sensor. It will over heat as soon as the car starts and misfire, not accelerate. I cannot find the CHT sensor to save my life! I’d like to change it myself given it’s so cheap. Any tips on how to find it?
because of your video I fixed my 2001 crown Victoria by changing the coolant temperature sensor as you described......it looked fine but had a amber brown color on the part that goes in the coolant and the new one was brass color....so the amber must have been build up??......but that fixed the false hot reading.......I thought the head gasket was blown and was gonna sell the car.......thank you...thank you...thank you!!!#####
I cannot find a deep socket that will fit all the way over this sensor, I know its 19mm, and I have tried 3 different 19mm sockets, and I just cannot get the socket down over the plastic part on top due to the inside of the socket....why is it so hard to find a socket that fits here...and nothing else but a socket will go down there.
ford focus mk11.6 16v on the dashboard shows that the car is overheated and after 20 seconds the lights are normalizing and when you raise the bonet everything is nice the antifreeze does not boil anything does not show overheating.more I changed the sensor together with the thermostat the result is the same
Hello. I have a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3, same issue. Replaced thermostat and water pump. Mechanic checked the lines and their saying it's running at 180 degrees (normal). However, when plugged into the computer, the comp says its like 230+. After unplugging the thermostat sensor, comp still reads the same. Car runs fine when it's cool, but after a few miles of driving, starts to bog down and eventually stalls. In your opinion is this a bad comp?
2012 mkz hybrid get the red triangle stop safely now and have to turn car off and on to drive again getting codes p0217-00 but temp guage is rite in the middle and code p1a14-00 any idea please help
I have a 2014 ford escape es echo boost 1.6 motor this is happening to me too :( top of my engine doesnt look like yours. Do you have a video for mine?
So, I have a 2014 Ford Escape se 1.6 liter. We have changed the coolant reservoir, coolant temp sensor, cylinder head temp sensor and the thermostat. It’s been sitting for over a week. It’s still showing high temp, stop safely. Any ideas on what it could be now?
So is the misfire cause by the CHT sensor thinking there is an overheat even if it's not overheated? I have 2003 focus with 2.0 ztec. Belt tensioner broke(don't buy dayco, get gates or motorcraft. Daycos hammer themselves to breaking on stops) and wife kept driving till she got home. Replaced belt and tensioner and seemed to run fine except code P1299 is keeping check engine light on. Ran fine for about 40 to 50 miles now all of a sudden it runs rough when accelerating from stop or if driving at below say 2K. If I take out of overdrive and run at say 3K it seems to run almost as smooth as normal. Hoping it's just this sensor sending out a warning and not actual blown head gasket or worse! Update: Reading a bit more on line seems like P1299 indicates that car is running in a kind of limp mode to try and prevent engine damage. So guessing either has to be manual reset after an incident or maybe CHT sensor got messed up and is still saying there's an issue and keeping it in limp mode. Going to try to clear codes and see if that gets it running ok and if so drive for a while and see if it stays clear or if it comes back because needs new sensor. 2nd update: I reset code and it still ran bad, and came on again after running briefly but P0303, P0304 and P0316, all ignition misfire codes. Pulled plug wires and both wells full of water. I assume for overheating but not exactly sure where from since they are kind of isolated from any water. Sucked it all out. pulled plugs and only one looked a bit white. No foam in cams nor dipstick. Reassembled and still ran rough. Thought hey water displacer 40! Pulled plug wires and sprayed both ends with wd40 and it runs fine now and check engine light is staying off. Good luck has struck....hopefully keeps going! Thanks for the info.
Where can I find a 19mm no shoulder socket? I can't find one and I need one asap. Sound specialty. Also, I'm having trouble finding the engine coolant on 2012 Ford Fusion 2.5L SE temperature. Please help me. Thanks.
I got the P1299 code after the gauge went crazy I got it home took a look at everything and there’s oil in 2/4 spark plug wells and 1/4 is corroded badly inside along with the sensor having oil on it too. Not sure where to go next I’ve got the sensor but not sure if that’s my only issue. It’s only got 62,000 miles it’s a 2009 I4 have you seen anything like this? There’s also no obvious signs of oil intrusion in the spark wells Idk where it’s leaking from.
My 09 Escape had the oil replacement notice come on . My daughter was driving it to WalMart to get the oil changed when it started overheating /H . We had the oil changed and while driving it home (< 2 miles) it overheated to the point of slowing to a crawl. I pulled it over let it cool down and then drove it to the SHOP. Any diagnoses ?
I want to say the fans are not working I didn't see them spinning and the AC wasnt blowing cold.question if this sensor goes out that it stop the fan module from working?I'm thinking it has to be the fan module
I have a 09 milan I'm working on I work at a firestone and I'm chasing my tail on this thing we've replaced the thermostat the water outlet and both cylinder head sensor and the temp sensor on water outlet and we r still getting an over heating issue I'm still thinking it not getting hot tho the cylinder sensor I installed wasn't as long as the other one that cane out it was like 2 or 3 inches shorter could it be the wrong sensor I really need to pick your brain any way I could speak to u on the phone thanx
The Ford dealer in Bastrop, Texas tried telling my sister her water pump went out or needed replaced after they did some recall work. Thanks to your video, I changed that sensor out and her car worked fine. Saved her $1700 Ford tried charging her. Thank you for taking time to make this video 8 years ago
Even though seven years have passed, your video was so useful for me today, thank you very much.
“Shy away from the dealer”. Best words of wisdom ever. I’d rather pay more money and have peace of mind than pay less and have more issues down the road.
I have to say that you were my savior. I've been working on this car all afternoon, evening, night, and now morning. I've been trying to figure this out for the past 18 hours. Changed thermostat and water pump with no change. Thank you for the information
For those of you who can't find a deepwell 19mm that fits, the lug nut wrench that comes with your spare tire will fit the CHT sensor.
I ran around like an idiot to every auto parts store and couldn't find a socket for it until I read this comment.
You sir just saved me, I was going crazy, the spare tire wrench saved me, 3 hrs looking for a 19mm,
God bless you.
bought a deep socket set from advanced auto for 11 bucks... didnt know die hard made tools.
Thanks for the tip
@@normn11thanks you sm this was my last resort and it worked thank you !
You're totally a great mechanic also telling us what socket to use i knew it was 19 m socket when i broke the old one but i was scared to put the new one in on my 2009 ford focus now i looked into my old tools i found a craftsman 19m socket, man u saved me a hassle big time thank u bro.
This just happened to me yesterday. You saved me a lot of time and money. I can't thank you enough!
Did you replace the sensor and the CEL went off on your dash?
Another point. My dad took his car to Jiffy Lube for an oil change. They noticed some type of fluid leak. Since the car is a Pontiac my dad took it to the Pontiac dealership. An estimate of $1300 to replace the oil pan gasket and a CV joints. Fortunately my dad said no way. Instead he took it to our local mechanic and Graniteville, SC. It was not an engine oil leak. There was a loose hose on the power steering. The end result is that he saved almost $1000 by not taking it to the dealership and getting a correct diagnosis.
Yeah my wife's Yukon has been riding ruff. Dealer said $1800 front struts were leaking. I bought the AC/delco shocks from Amazon. Had local shop put on. Shocks were only $300. Got out less than $800. But vehicle still rides like crap. Very bouncy. So I did research online. Found there is a TSB. You go into gmc website type in Vin. It showed the ride control had a software update to address this. I printed out screen shots of everything, weblink all information to make it simple. It has a part number for the update. I gave them all of this. It even says this addresses the ruff ride. These are magnetic shocks and computer controlled. Took to dealer today. They called me said their tech said we just needed new shocks. I said yeah we already replaced them. He said they didn't know what I was talking about with the updates. I'm like this is your GMC website, your TSB and you dont know what to do? There like yes don't know what your talking bout. So gotta pick it up today. I at a loss for words. I work on Toshiba equipment for a living. I have similar prosess for updates that come out. It's something I could do, I just don't have the programs they do to download and update it. So I don't know who to trust.....
I have a 2001 Ford Focus SE. Lucky for me through the years, my parts were still originals for 16 years, but then I got the overheating when driving 30 mph down residential streets. I learned the exhaust fans weren't coming on when engine gets hot. They do come on when AC is running. I changed the temperature switch and alternator while at it. When finished, the engine sounded way better and more powerful, but still had overheat. I changed the Thermostat. But no. After a lot of researching online and you tube, I finally found one thing on you tube I hadn't seen before. The resistor connected to the fans. The resistor wires are connected to the temperature switch. It activates the fans if the engine gets hot with no AC running. The connectors were both fried. After changing resistor, it worked and no more overheating.
Hey I just wanted to thank you for these videos... This one in particular. I bought a used 2012 escape from a non ford dealer a few weeks ago in a pinch in winter and used your trans fluid change video then just got stuck on the side of the freeway in the Dakotas and found this video. It literally saved me a tow truck ride in the middle of the night (and I have to work in the morning) I had the overheat and CEL and felt the engine and it wasn't that warm... Googled fake Ford Escape overheat and found another one of your videos. Pulled the plug for the coolant sensor and sure enough that cup in the plug is full of water. I used some paper towel to soak the water out of the male sensor cup part. I dunno if the dealer pressure washed the engine or what but I made it home with no other problems. Sincerely thanks.
My 2009 Ford Focus was having an issue going cold. Changed out the thermostat, and while doing so found a leak in the radiator. Replaced the radiator. Put vacuum on system and filled with coolant. Same thing was happening. Replaced the cylinder head temperature sensor and valve cover gaskets. No further issues.
Honestly Brian, I think you are just a good tech because in my town even dealers can't even fix a ham sandwich and every concern you tell them is always considered "normal operation"
In this situation would looking at the data pid vs infrared have been a dead giveaway? I'm surprised the independent didn't do that first and went straight to parts
this is exactly what was wrong with my car. two things different, 1 - on my vehicle, the sensor was intermittent. It was until I replaced it I was able to find out that it was the cause to the problem I was experiencing. Which brings me to the second finding, opposite to what video is talking about. on my car the temp indicator wasn't even moving. Additionally, the fan was coming on as soon as I start the car even on a cold morning.
the replacement was supper easy. I torqued the sensor as I would for a spark plug. Over all this was a good informational video to help identify and fix the problem. Thanks FordTechMakuloco
Couldn’t find proper deep 19mm or 3/4 socket. Ran thru all the tools and parts store in town. Ended up cutting a 3/4 deep socket in half and welded it to another deep 3/4 socket, worked like a charm in case anybody ever ends up in the same situation.
From one Brian to another...thank you! I replaced the thermostat in my wife's 2009 escape and it had obvious air pockets. It actually put out heat in the cabin, which it didn't do before, however after awhile it overheated again! UGH! Just checked for codes and wouldn't you know it P1299 "Cylinder head overtemp protection active" in other words....bad sensor. The many videos I started to watch were not the correct placement of the sensor, until THIS one!! So, again.....THANK YOU!!
Thanks again Brian for you to share with us your wealth of knowledge. I was having on my 2010 Focus with 2.0 Duratec the cooling fan on high speed with a cold engine. Its November now here in Quebec and somehow cold with snow. The cylinder head temperature sensor was giving the pcm false informations. There was no codes, no check engine light, just my cooling fan going on at full blast when it shouldn’t. The temperature gauge on the cluster was reaching it’s (normal) indication faster then normal as a clue. The temperature would stay there, no weird indications. I did use a 3/4´´Deep socket 12 sided from Performance Tool. It was just perfect to complete the task. Once again, many thanks!
Would your car heater work while this was going on?
Thank you very much!!! I had this problem for 2.5 years on my 2004 Focus 2.3 liter and with your help I was able to fix the problem. Prior to your valuable information, I changed the radiator myself and problem continued.
This is the best channel I have ever seen keep the videos coming
Thank you for the video! Had a 17 focus 2.0 I did a engine on and I was having misfires and false overheating. Pulled the connector and it was soaked with water. Blew it out with compressed air and engine is running like it should 👍👍👍
you are very smart on these fords, my escape is doing the same thing, The temp gauge would peg over to hot and then drop back down, engine light is on, they plugged it in and a P1299 code came up, they couldnt tell me what that was.....(hmmmm) I found you on here years ago when i was searching about the drivers axle seal leaking on my escape, i talked to you and i had thought about driving out to your place so you could change my seal, but it has not got any worse i might have to add a few ounces of atf twice a year ( and i only use type LV ) in my book you are the ford man, you really know what to do and how to do it,,,,thx again i will go out now and check that plug for corrosion and scrape some off if possible... kinda adds up i had just lightly sprayed my motor compartment with a hose just the other day.......(imagine that ) thx again ,,, #1 ford mechanic...Oh btw i have 95000 on my little 4 cly escape now, only use motocraft synthetic blend every 3500 miles,,,, no problems,,, except for new belt and idler pullys last year.......thx guy, have a great day......
So glad I found this video. Same thing happened to my wife's escape this week! Had coolant and everything but said it was over heating.
I've got a 17 Escape Titanium with the 2.0. It started misfiring and saying it was overheating when the ambient temp was 50 degrees and the car had just been started and run a half mile down the road. I hope that this is my issue. I usually wouldn't go to the dealer, but I've had my doubts whether or not an independent mechanic could diagnose the problem. There are coolant intrusion issues with the ford ecotec engines, and it's been spooking me to no end. Wish me luck folks, and THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO.
Any more info? Having same issues
Great video as always ! Thank you for your honesty ! You can use a 3/4" deep well also.
Thanks for this video, very helpful. I would like to ask you why the two fans keep working even with cold weather. I have no issues or sensors activated
I have a Fusion v6 and I'm having problems with engine overheating.
Works all day normally, but when I accelerate a little stronger, the temperature rises, sometimes little, sometimes a lot and then down to normal temperature.
Already changed the radiator, water pump, did cleaning of the system apparently is not mixing water with oil and the car in no time failure.
Have you seen this?
I know the car boils, because if I open the water reservoir, the water jumps all out.
Felipe, boa tarde. Você conseguiu resolver seu problema?
I'm having the same issues. any resolution for this issue?
I still have not solved my problem, I replaced thermostatic valve, water pump, belt temperature sensor and radiator.
My mechanic is suspicious that it may be the automatic transmission that is heating 6F35.
Case you find out anything please let me know.
Tanks.
Great video I appreciate it. Do you remember if you were getting a code? Did the check engine light come on?
I’m having a similar issue with my 2013 fusion 1.6. It’s about 50 degrees here in arizona and I’ll do a cold start and in about 15 mins my cooling fans will turn on and my temp gauge will spike up and get close to the redline. If I drive around the cooling fans turn off and the temp will go back down to normal (a bit below the middle mark). If I make a stop for a few minutes, the cooling fans will turn back on and repeat the overheating shown on the temp gauge. There’s also no check engine or codes. What do you think it is?
Hi my Friend, I personally think you are amazing, your skills and knowledge has helped me twice!
Excellent video. We attempted to install the new sensor using the 19mm socket, while tighing the sensor, it broke from the shaft going into the sensor threads. Do you just hand tork it? Thanks
Thanks this solve my issue on my 2010 focus .my temperature gauge will not work sometimes and red temperate light will come on. Now it runs like new .. you can remove the sensor using a weed eater Spark Plug Wrench, It is deep enough and you can get it at home Depot . Hope this helps.. thanks
Used a weed eater spark plug tool myself, it works, just barely but it works. Easier than trying to find a bit that has no shoulder. Damn near impossible.
Copy dat my friend . Thats whats happening to my moms car . It wasnt overheating but gauge was indicating so. Car went into protection mode "i guess " . Itll start up fine but accelerator unresponsive , eng cold by this time also. Thankyou for eassuring me that this problem exist. So helpful for me man, god bless u bro.
I think you just diagnosed you issue to a t. My transit connect will falsely overheat and runs in limp home mode. Engine isn’t hot because I pulled into a gas station and ran cold water over radiator. No change in heat. Turned van off then on, problem went away for awhile. I also had a code for cylinder 4 misfire. I will check the plugs as well.
I have a ford escape limited 05 and the engine keeps over heating and the dash doesn't read that its hot so the engine keeps trying to warm itself up idk what to do n after u cant turn it back on idk what to do
Hey Brian! My wife just had an issue with 2013 Ford Escape Titanium Ecoboost. Something blew, a hose, radiator or something. I popped the hood b/c the code read on my reader P1255 and notice green fluid. Thus it slowed the engine down to low throttle to avoid over heating and low power. Couldn't even get it up the slanted driveway into the garage.
I put coolant in and right away noticed it pouring out the bottom.
Gotta have it towed to the mechanic. While it's there it needs the wipers worked on b/c those aren't responding.
SOme days I want to ring Ford engineers by the neck!
I try to stay loyal to my home state but Ford has been falling fast from favor with me.
I have a 2010 Fusion SE I bought used. Running great for now.
I’m having a problem with my 2013 Ford Escape I had my water pump changed and I algo changed both the engine belt and timing belt also replaced the head gasket and the check engine light does not come on so I’m not sure what’s going on the ac also makes it overheat faster do you thing it’s that sensor or air pockets?
Does that sensor set in or over a well for coolant? If so that would be a much easier home fix for clearing the air from inside the block during a coolant fill. I’m asking because I’m in this pain now. Small leak identified but unlocatable during vacuum filling since there’s no liquid to leak. It’s been a long week on this
Great video! I have a 2010 Mercury Mariner with the 2.5 it had a bad tensioner and was throwing the belt. It had the code for the CHT but I thought it was because of the fact that it was running without a belt. After replacing we drive it for about 10 to 15 minutes then it doesn't start. I cleared codes after replacing tensioner and belt and I'm still getting the CHT code. I connected a scan tool and the CHT reads -40 degrees I checked just like in the video but the sensor looks good but I noticed the connector does not lock on the sensor. Should I replace the connector or both the sensor and the connector? Would an incorrect temp reading cause the crank no start issue?
Thanks for the video. I'm having this same issue with my Escape. I've looked everywhere but have been unable to find a 19mm deep socket with a deep enough shoulder. Do you happen to know the Craftsman part# for your socket?
Did you find one?
@@marlenerodriguez444 Unfortunately, no.
You can use the lug nut wrench that came with the car
Great vid!....is there a code associated with this issue? I've got a 2011 2.5 Fusion that just did this and it's showing a p1299.
kauboi yes that code is associated with this failure.
Thank you for this video it saved me time and money. I read below someone with the same problem(water in the rubber plug).
+Christian Vargas Very common
thanks for posting! it's best to be our own advocates ( esp if you're a female) and not get taken advantage of. and YES I AM a female but far from dumb on automotive..I learn alot from your videos. and have taken automotive classes.. but technology is always changing, so learning never stops.
I got a 2017 escape 2.0 that reads ect at 180-200 but once you give it gas the cht goes to 240-320 even 350 if you really step on it. replaced the cht/thermostat and still same condition
This guy is like a surgeon for Ford vehicles!
Any ideas what the issue could be for a fusion 2014 1.5 L ecoboost? Its overheating and reads the coolant temperature sensor, changed it, and a week later its overheating again reading the same code. I did learn through Ford this year fusion does not have a cylinder head temp sensor.
2011 escape same problems as described in video. Question how do you remove the cap and or gasket around the cht I'll add that this model has two cht one on each Cylander head cover
I would just like to say thank you ! I find your videos very helpful
Thanks!
keep posting these videos, you'll save people with knowledge and know how alot of Money.
I have a transit connect. It happened about 4 minutes of leaving home. I can view live data. How can I determine if the sensor is reading the incorrect temp?
How far up that deep well 19mm socket is needed before the shoulder so it will fit? What make of socket is that? Im having a hard time finding a socket where the shoulder inside is deep enough. The best i found was only 3/4" deep.
I've had this happen to many 05 focuses 2.0.I put in a new one from O'Reillys and it threw a code for thermostatic threshold.theyve updated that part and the actual part that sits in the passage is smaller on the new one. Even on the ford lucky me I found the original OEM ones in the junkyard.2 years later no codes on anyone of the ones I've replaced on mine and customers cars. I like working on one brand its a lot easier for diagnosis and it helps with book hours. Its great going from a ford to a Mercedes Benz
Dude I hit a cow November 2018 and my 2010 fusion which has been a great car took the hit like a champ drove away after the accident has had so many problems with tho cooling system lately and I know very little about cars but your videos have helped me out sooooo so much thanks for all the videos and help
How is the Cow doing?
Amer Fiaz Ahmed I think it’s still alive. The cow got up and walked away after the hit to go nurse it’s calf
Cool, I was wondering what that threaded area was on my mazda 6 motor. Wonder why mazda deleted that part?? Mazda also made a cover to cover for the spark plugs, fuel rail area as well.
I could have similar problem getting misfire on cylinders 1-2-3 (PO301-PO303) figured boots or coils are bad so I replaced still misfire hadn’t had plugs in a while so installed running better but still rough at idle and check engine light back put code reader on and reading PO302 could be that temperature sensor?
I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 2.3L. The CHT was replaced by the previous owner and it was a botched job. While I was trying to fix it correctly, the wires from the truck came apart from the new pigtail. So, can you tell me how they hook up correctly? Pigtail wires are white and black. Truck wires are yellow/green line and grey/red line. Any help appreciated!
@FORDTECHMAKULOCO.....I have 2016 Fusion Hybrid, my daughter hit a piece of shredded tractor trailer tire the other day. Lot of cosmetic damage to the front driver side of bumper. but no it is throwing the engine coolant over temperature but there are no codes when I hook up the code scanner. and from what I can tell, there are no wires or plug-in that are damaged from the tire piece. Would this be something I need to check out for a possible false overheat? Never had an issue until that morning.
Was the repair still covered under warranty even tho someone else tried to fix the problem?
+Derek Draper My repair was yes. What happened at the other shop is out of Fords hands.
Just came across this on a 2016 Ford Fusion. Thank you Mary very much for this video
Nothing wrong with a good independent that actually takes the time to diagnose instead of throwing parts.
Great video. I have a 2002 ford escape 3.0 and I have changed the radiator, water pump, and the thermostat. I still have a over heating issue and no heat inside. Any ideas on what it might be. I think there is a small crack in the overflow but not 100% sure.
As long as the thermostat is not in backwards and the head is not cracked I say you now have an air lock situation I recommend this tool to get it out-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002SRH5G&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=7CWFQMMBUMINZ2OD
I will have to check that out. The Truck has clean oil in the oil pan and no white smoke so I don't think the head is blown. Thermostat went in the way it came out. One thing I did notice that I thought was weird , was after I changed the water pump, radiator and the thermostat when I refilled the overflow tank it did not take a lot of antifreeze. Nor did hardly any come out of the hoses when removed from radiator, thermostat and water pump. And is there a bleeding valve on the system? Thank you very much info.
Good Info, is there a similar problem with false under temp readings and setting codes? I have a 2005 Escape hybrid that will set a P0128 under temp code, not sure if this is thermostat or sensor issue. never had this code pop up until after i cleaned the engine compartment. I can clear the code but it will come back sometimes in a few days or in a few weeks.
I have not been in a big hurry to fix it since under heat will only lose a little fuel mileage.
+Jack Lance P0128 are pretty common on Fords 4 cylinder engines especially the 2.3L and 2.5L 95% of the time the thermostat is the cause of the concern we replace allot of them. Just be sure to use the Ford unit. Also be sure to vacuum fill the engine or you will have overheating issues next see here-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002SRH5G&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=5ADJ42YIPPCCAKVT
Did you ever figure this out? Is it the thermostat or the sensor?
Hey Brian. Thanks for all the explanation and very informative video. Definitely helped me today and I'm sure that it will help many more. Also, I like the background music as I too am a man of faith. Take care and God Bless.
U sir are the man for ford.
Thank you for ur video.
Helped me diagnose 2007 focus 2.0 with same bs😅
The rubber boot on the connector is ripped and is making a slapping sound even after changing both the sensor and the pigtail. Any suggestions on what to check for next??
This is great stuff, think these same tips on this clip would fix a p1299-p1285 for my 05 focus zx3 2.0 ?
My car will not start sometimes and we hooked it up to a check, and the only code that came up was "P1289 Cylinder Head Temp Sensor" could this be the reason why it is not starting?
I have a 13’ Fusion 1.5 Eco. Just recently the heat would not work if sitting still, and now it is over heating quickly in 50 degree weather. CHT? Or Thermostat?
My 2015 1.5 fusion is still saying coolant head temp I replaced it .I also replaced the thermostat was great for 2 weeks but now it's saying the same thing..🤔
I have a 2014 escape 1.6 engine that is giving me a false high temperature reading can you help?
Same engine heat alert and sensor failure. Twice in my driveway and once at Ford quick lane. In quick lane, they were draining coolant and refilling. They could not restart car without the heat sensor issue. Under Elite warranty and Ford gave me loaner each tome. Took them several days in the shop to fix each tome. Not fuzzy warm about reliability of my 2014 escape. Love my car, but not sure I will buy another one??? I have what I recall is the British engine built one. I recall the other engine available was built in Mexico. I have the smaller engine, but titanium model.
So I have a 2012 w/ a 2.5 and 188k miles and have a really strong vibration in gear when cold. smooths out a bit when hitting operating temp but doesn't go away completely unless I'm in neutral or park. could this be the issue? I've swapped out all 4 mounts already. I have no engine codes.
hello, I'm trying to locate this sensor in a Ford Escape 2009 without success. Could you help me please?
working on 2013 fusion w 2.5l and cant find the cht sensor. all data diy has 3 engine diagrams that dont match! plz help
So question I have a check engine light for this part your talking about on my 2014 fusion does everything needing to be vacuumed down on the coolant system does that apply to when you change the coolant head temp sensor?
I went to Ford dealership with my 2013 Ford Escape and they replaced a relay & thermostat saying it'll never happen again. well so much for a Ford Dealership my SUV still overheats when in gear and sitting at a redlight or in traffic for more than 15 min
So seeing how Ford can't fix it what's your thoughts on my problem could it be this or not?
Thanks for any help as no one can fix my problem
I have a 2013 I bought in 2016 and it has over heated 4 times on me in the first 3 months, I took it to the "dealer" they told me it was the battery which was not the case, then it was a sensor they replaced them still overheating then they couldn't find anything and still charged me. took to a midas shop where I gt all my other work done they informed me they had 20-25 escapes and called ford to no end and no fix was found.
So my question to you if you can help is this, what would cause my car to overheat while waiting in traffic or in line at Dunkin Donuts?
it has no overheating while driving only when sitting in gear and it don't matter summer or in the cold of winter here in Vermont
I would love to be able to go to my dealer but they are not able to fix it so please any help would be very nice vs waiting for it to shut down or even catch fire
Thanks you once more for any help
Paul Taylo
this exact same thing is happening to me. did you ever find the true issue?
@@jaymelynn9835 no and it's still doing it, I just learned to live with putting it in netutal when I stop and go without the AC when not moving
Ford promised me it was fixed 😔 3 years ago and it's not doubt if it ever will be
Please help me. Pretty sure my 2019 escape is having this problem. Where can I find the sensor? None of the Ford diagrams help either
Will this problem result In fan not coming on, the scan tool says temp is as high as 230
I have a 1998 Ford Crown Vic it is reading overheating after driving it a while my temperature does not read it stays at 1 bar just recently replaced the cylinder head temperature sensor (yesterday) radiator (2015), water pump(2014) , electric fan(2014), thermostat(last month), coolant temperature sensor radiator (last week) main hose, hose to thermostat raidtor, and other hose (2014) it just stop reading or staying at one bar on my digital dash December 2015
I have a 2013 1.6L Escape and the Engine Coolant Temp sensor is stuck open. I purchased the sensor from Ford dealership and it looks nothing like the one in your video. Is there that big of a difference from the 1.6L to the 2.5L? Where is the location of the engine coolant sensor on the 1.6L eco boost?
Thanks for the video. I didn't catch where you said that the water is coming from since its screwed into a dry hole. I have the 2.0 liter Transit. After it has been driven water is coming a bit out of the top of the boot. What do you think?
check the heater hose as it turns toward rear,, from the front of the engine whole hose is $90. I replaced from joint to the rear connection. T-connection broke and blew antifreeze everywhere.
@@curt6531 I need to check every hose. I still smell some antifreeze. It's a really small leak. I might replace all of the hoses since I have 110,000 on it and keep the old ones for spares. I also have a slight seeping from oil pan or hopefully not the rear seal.
@@70FordMach1 check the diagram and zero in on this connection. its not the hose. its this T joint- in the middle of the hose. see Ford diagrams.
@@curt6531 Thanks, I'll take a look.
Can you tell me where are the cylinder head Temperature sensor is on a 2015 Ford edge sport 2.7
So my temp gauge spiked driving to work yesterday. It spikes while driving, and drops while idling. It did it again this morning. I have no heat when idling, but heat works when driving. I just bled my cooling system. It did have air in it, and bleeding it seems to have helped, but I noticed when I pulled the cover off the CHT sensor to check that, that I have what looks like used motor oil pooled down in there. I have a 2007 with 160,000 miles on it and I am imagining the worst with that oil being in there.
see if a valve is leaking oil and it got in there
5 years later what was it
My 1.6L eco fusion has recently thrown a cylinder head temp sensor. It will over heat as soon as the car starts and misfire, not accelerate. I cannot find the CHT sensor to save my life! I’d like to change it myself given it’s so cheap. Any tips on how to find it?
because of your video I fixed my 2001 crown Victoria by changing the coolant temperature sensor as you described......it looked fine but had a amber brown color on the part that goes in the coolant and the new one was brass color....so the amber must have been build up??......but that fixed the false hot reading.......I thought the head gasket was blown and was gonna sell the car.......thank you...thank you...thank you!!!#####
I cannot find a deep socket that will fit all the way over this sensor, I know its 19mm, and I have tried 3 different 19mm sockets, and I just cannot get the socket down over the plastic part on top due to the inside of the socket....why is it so hard to find a socket that fits here...and nothing else but a socket will go down there.
ford focus mk11.6 16v on the dashboard shows that the car is overheated and after 20 seconds the lights are normalizing and when you raise the bonet everything is nice the antifreeze does not boil anything does not show overheating.more I changed the sensor together with the thermostat the result is the same
Hello. I have a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3, same issue. Replaced thermostat and water pump. Mechanic checked the lines and their saying it's running at 180 degrees (normal). However, when plugged into the computer, the comp says its like 230+. After unplugging the thermostat sensor, comp still reads the same. Car runs fine when it's cool, but after a few miles of driving, starts to bog down and eventually stalls. In your opinion is this a bad comp?
Can this cause not heat from vents? Mine’s also overheats. Please help
Does this also apply to the 1.6L? I have a 2013 Ford fusion experiencing this exact issue.
Where does that water come from? How does it get down in there?
How does it get inside a waterproof, O-ringed connector?
2012 mkz hybrid get the red triangle stop safely now and have to turn car off and on to drive again getting codes p0217-00 but temp guage is rite in the middle and code p1a14-00 any idea please help
I had this problem few hour's ago....mine is ford fusion 2016 energy.....what do you think?
I have a 2014 ford escape es echo boost 1.6 motor this is happening to me too :( top of my engine doesnt look like yours. Do you have a video for mine?
So, I have a 2014 Ford Escape se 1.6 liter. We have changed the coolant reservoir, coolant temp sensor, cylinder head temp sensor and the thermostat. It’s been sitting for over a week. It’s still showing high temp, stop safely. Any ideas on what it could be now?
Jennifer im have same issue as you currently did you figure out the problem because im at a loss on mine!!!
So is the misfire cause by the CHT sensor thinking there is an overheat even if it's not overheated? I have 2003 focus with 2.0 ztec. Belt tensioner broke(don't buy dayco, get gates or motorcraft. Daycos hammer themselves to breaking on stops) and wife kept driving till she got home. Replaced belt and tensioner and seemed to run fine except code P1299 is keeping check engine light on. Ran fine for about 40 to 50 miles now all of a sudden it runs rough when accelerating from stop or if driving at below say 2K. If I take out of overdrive and run at say 3K it seems to run almost as smooth as normal. Hoping it's just this sensor sending out a warning and not actual blown head gasket or worse!
Update: Reading a bit more on line seems like P1299 indicates that car is running in a kind of limp mode to try and prevent engine damage. So guessing either has to be manual reset after an incident or maybe CHT sensor got messed up and is still saying there's an issue and keeping it in limp mode. Going to try to clear codes and see if that gets it running ok and if so drive for a while and see if it stays clear or if it comes back because needs new sensor.
2nd update: I reset code and it still ran bad, and came on again after running briefly but P0303, P0304 and P0316, all ignition misfire codes. Pulled plug wires and both wells full of water. I assume for overheating but not exactly sure where from since they are kind of isolated from any water. Sucked it all out. pulled plugs and only one looked a bit white. No foam in cams nor dipstick. Reassembled and still ran rough. Thought hey water displacer 40! Pulled plug wires and sprayed both ends with wd40 and it runs fine now and check engine light is staying off. Good luck has struck....hopefully keeps going! Thanks for the info.
Where can I find a 19mm no shoulder socket? I can't find one and I need one asap. Sound specialty. Also, I'm having trouble finding the engine coolant on 2012 Ford Fusion 2.5L SE temperature. Please help me. Thanks.
I got the P1299 code after the gauge went crazy I got it home took a look at everything and there’s oil in 2/4 spark plug wells and 1/4 is corroded badly inside along with the sensor having oil on it too. Not sure where to go next I’ve got the sensor but not sure if that’s my only issue. It’s only got 62,000 miles it’s a 2009 I4 have you seen anything like this? There’s also no obvious signs of oil intrusion in the spark wells Idk where it’s leaking from.
Im having trouble taking the sensor out its turning but its not coming out
My Ford Fusion V6 engine is giving misfire error on cylinder 6. What do you think I should look at? The car is failing idling.
My 09 Escape had the oil replacement notice come on . My daughter was driving it to WalMart to get the oil changed when it started overheating /H . We had the oil changed and while driving it home (< 2 miles) it overheated to the point of slowing to a crawl. I pulled it over let it cool down and then drove it to the SHOP. Any diagnoses ?
I want to say the fans are not working I didn't see them spinning and the AC wasnt blowing cold.question if this sensor goes out that it stop the fan module from working?I'm thinking it has to be the fan module
I have a 09 milan I'm working on I work at a firestone and I'm chasing my tail on this thing we've replaced the thermostat the water outlet and both cylinder head sensor and the temp sensor on water outlet and we r still getting an over heating issue I'm still thinking it not getting hot tho the cylinder sensor I installed wasn't as long as the other one that cane out it was like 2 or 3 inches shorter could it be the wrong sensor I really need to pick your brain any way I could speak to u on the phone thanx