Detailed Sway Bar Bushings Replacement 2008 + Town & Country / Grand Caravan
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Items used in this video:
Moog bushings (far cheaper than I paid!):
amzn.to/3c0RUju
Milwaukee Power Ratchet (my FAVORITE, most used tool!):
amzn.to/2Xv3yOJ
Today in Javo's Garage we're changing the sway (or stabilizer) bar bushings on a 2009 Chrysler Town & Country. Step by step instructions along with torque specs, part numbers and tools used to complete the job. If you are experiencing a clunk, rattle, knock or banging sound when traveling over bumps in the road this could very well be your problem. Another cause could be your stabilizer links, perform an inspection to verify your problem.
Thanks for stopping by my garage, I hope this tutorial helps you. Please feel free to ask any questions.
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DISCLAIMER: The information provided in this video is for educational and entertainment purposes only and should not be construed as professional advice. The creators, producers, and distributors of this video do not assume any responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in the content of this video or for any damages arising from the use or reliance on the information presented in this video. Viewers should consult their own professional advisors for advice and guidance. The use of any information provided in this video is solely at the viewer's own risk.
I just finished this job in my driveway in just over 3 hours. Thank you for all the tips you presented in this video. The only thing I had trouble with was reaching the back bolt for the passengers side where the heat shield and the power steering hose block it. Removing the 2 bolts that hold the hose to the frame and pushing the hose up out of the way a couple inches makes a big difference. Once I had those 2 items out of my way it was much easier to access that back bolt. A lift in a shop would have shaved a couple hours off this job. I had to heat the nuts to get the sway bar links off. They were pretty rusty and the boots were torn. Other than that it was just being patient and going in order. Once again, this 57 year old thanks you. A couple tips I learned from other sources is to not grease the bushings and to orient the split towards the rear of the car. Turning the wheel to the left or right, depending on which side you are working on helps push the tie rod boot out of your way as well.
Great video - thanks for the detail!
One hint; removing both bushing clamps and upper link bolts will allow the sway bar to be swung down below the control arms for access with a impact wrench to the lower link bolts, and easy install of the bushings
@David Panak - Great tip to make the job easier, thank you posting it here to help others! I appreciate the visit to my video and your kind words as well, much appreciated!
This video was super helpful. I changed my bushings yesterday, and because of the video, I didn’t have any problems. Thanks for making it.
@Rocky Forthofer - I'm really happy to hear my video was able to help you get your job done. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback, much appreciated!
One of the best video tutorials I have ever seen.
success and my best wishes
@Andy Caballero - Well thank you very much Andy! I really appreciate the compliment and the best wishes.
This is an excellent detailed video you've done. MUCH better than reading instructions to do this job. Very much appreciated!
+William Prout Thank you very much! I'm glad my video was able to help you, that is my number one goal here. Also, thank you for taking the time to let me know by posting your feedback - I really appreciate it. I hope your project goes great!
I have an '09 Caravan with clunking bushings. I have to change mine soon. GREAT video! The only suggestion I have for those of you in snowy climates, is to apply Anti-Seize compound to your bolts before re-installing them. Easier to rotate when installing and prevents corrosion.
G Alexander - Thank you for the compliment! Great suggestion too! I hope your project goes great, let me know if I can help you in any way.
...and pb blaster before...
@@kdr-ql7pz - I agree, PB Blaster always helps but the fumes are pretty bad. Oddly enough, I tried the WD40 brand Release Penetrant formula recently and got some pretty good results. Nice thing is that it doesn't have the really bad fumes. I recommend giving it a try sometime and see how it works for you. Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment, I really appreciate it!
What a great job you did covering this. Now I have all the confidence in the world I can get this job done for $15. Listing all the tools and the parts was great too. Save me running back and forth to the tool box:-) Thank You Javo🙂
really appreciate what you've done. However, there's always room for improvement right? I discovered that if you take and turn the steering wheel all the way to one side that you have clear access to the bolt in the front. It turns the tie rod out of the way. For the passenger side turn it all the way to the right for the driver side turn it all the way to the left.
@Russell Bantin - Hi Russell. Sorry for the delay, we decided to get away for a few days so I'm just now getting a chance to respond to comments. You know, there is ALWAYS room for improvement! I appreciate learning new ways of doing things that save time and ultimately... money. I will give your method a try for sure. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave a comment that will help me and others as well - much appreciated!
Great Vid Javo! Finally someone that shows the full extent of what to do and look out for when replacing the bushings. Most Folks will not show you so much details. Once again thank you sooo much. I have subscribe.. hope to see more in the future.
EyeOnDetroit - Thank you sir! I'm sorry for the delayed response. Was on vacation. I appreciate the comment, I really try to provide the detail and tips that for some reason I just don't see in many videos. There will be more coming! Thanks again! -Javo
Amazing video, you just solved my problem with front end clunking noises on my caravan when i go over bumps, thank you.
That is awesome Fred! It always makes my day to hear one of my videos has been able to help someone. I hope your repair goes smoothly. If you have any questions along the way please don’t hesitate to ask. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.
Thanks for this detailed video especially the part about the heat shield. I was able to shave off about an hour because of your video.
Great video! Getting the camera in there the way you did was very helpful
Tim Brown - Thank you! I'm glad this was helpful for you and I hope your project goes great!
I changed the strut and coil assemblies on both sides of my '08 T&C and had trouble detaching one of the sway bar links. I ended up having to replace the passenger/right side sway bar link. Now I have a popping noise coming from that side when I do hard turn. I've jacked up my T&C and turn the wheel and I've verified it is the link. I've researched that it might be the sway bar bushings but it doesn't make sense why it would be coming from the brand new sway bar link unless it's defective out of the box. It was the cheapest autozone duralast kind they had. I guess I'll be replacing some parts until the noise goes away. Thanks for your video.
@Fernando Lopez - First off, you're very welcome for the video and I'm glad to hear you found it helpful. If you're getting a popping sound when you make hard turns I would start with checking your upper strut mounts. Place a finger or two on the very top of the strut and have someone turn the steering wheel. If you can feel the pop up there it's very possible your strut has a bad bearing in the upper mount. If you are certain the problem is the link switch to a Moog link, it's a more expensive part but much higher quality than the Duralast. I personally have never had to replace the sway bar bushings or links on one of these to eliminate a popping sound when turning. Maybe some have, that has just not been my experience. For me, the popping sound when turning has turned out to be the upper strut bearing. Hope that helps you. Thanks for stopping by!
@@javosgarage I'm very grateful for your response. It's a very puzzling/frustrating problem because the popping didn't show up until I replaced the strut/spring assemblies on both sides which if it's a bad upper mount bearing like you say then the problem was introduced by what was supposed to be a repair. I will give it some time and see if the problem remains, settles down, or gets worse. Anyway, I've watched more of your videos and I find them very educational/entertaining and I'm now a subscriber. Thank you again.
This must be your show van . No minivan has ever been that clean underneath unless it just came from the factory!!
Thank you for the tips I am planning on working on my minivan in Spring same issue you have thanks again, Carl
You're welcome Carl. Hopefully this video will prove invaluable during your project. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment. Thank you.
Watch out for those H/F rechargeable work light!! I’ve had them for years and what I have found is if you leave them charging for then 4hrs at a time you will start to kill the battery!!! Great Video Sir’ great work 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great advice! I love those lights, you can't beat 'em. I purchased some aftermarket 18650 batteries from Amazon and it made them even better. I have one that got run over by our Expedition and it still works! Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave some valuable info that will help others.
However, don't leave them out in the rain!!
Thank YOU for this vidio. Without it I'm not sure I get this one done. I started this job then got to the back bolt passanger side. Thats when the cussin started! I tried every way imaginable to do this with out loosening the two longest heat shield bolts in the world--that just so happen to be in two of the worst places to get to in the world. It can not be done. You have to loosen that heat shield. End a story
Thank you for the video . Im Learning a lot .
Glad to help!
Excellent video
@ps allen - Thank you very much for the compliment! I appreciate you taking a moment to leave me some feedback.
Nice work!
@Bob Borycki - Thanks for the compliment Bob! I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - thank you.
Great video. Thanks for posting.
What's the mileage and where are you located (roughly)? Here in the rust belt at 175k miles, nothing looks nearly that pristine under the vehicle :)
would you have some pics left over of the "safety stand" setup you made with the Rhino Ramps and spare tire? It looks sturdy, and I just am leery of my Jack stands. Thanks.
Thanks for the great video! This was really helpful to me (until I broke off one of the bushing retainer bolts inside the subframe due to rust...). I'm now having trouble re-attaching the heat shielding over the rack&pinion. I've replaced the two 10mm bolts, but I feel like the shield is rattling. Is there a trick to engaging a flange or something at the rear of the heat shield? Thanks!
Great video
Thank you Frank, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment. Thank you!
best video THANKS
You're very welcome. Thank you for the compliment!
Nice video. Yes, your bushings are cracked but look not bad enough to replace yet. Were the bushings causing a noise that caused you to replace them? Did replacing the bushings stop the noise?
THANK YOU!
You're welcome!
Would you consider making a video about replacing the parking brake shoes and related hardware?
I most certainly would, unfortunately it will be a little while. I have purchased a 2005 Town & Country Limited and plan on doing about 20-30 videos with it to finish out that series. Once that's complete I will be moving on to the next series of vans. I will certainly add this to my list for when that time comes. I'm sorry, I wish I was of more help to you at the moment. Thank you for stopping by.
Also if you unbolt both brackets you don't have to worry about the sway bar links because the bar will lift up and down without disconnecting the sway bar links.
@Russell Bantin - Agreed, I was just looking for a little bit more room to move some things around.
Question ? Is a knocking noise in front tire area while driving straight 25 - 40 mph a symptom of these going bad ?
@RB K - I think I answered this for you on the question you posted on the 2001-2007 video but if I didn't let me know. Thanks!
any idea how to remove that heat shield? i am replacing my rack and pinion and one of the bolts is hidden under it.
@MrPureSin - Frankly, I haven't removed that shield nor done a R&P on this generation of vans. Having said that, if I remember correctly I didn't just remove the heat shield when I did this job because the exhaust kept me from doing that so I removed the fasteners for the shield and slid it up out of the way. Maybe that same approach would give you the space you need. I apologize, I wish I was of more help to you on this one.
there bolts in the opposite site that you can take off I did did not take the heat shield off but it gave me enough room to work with.
Great video, getting ready to do mine, where exactly did place your jack stands? So you could have room to work?
Thank you for the compliment Martin. Unfortunately, I don't have a video showing that on that generation of vans specifically but I did show it during a repair I did on the previous generation. The instructions are at the beginning of this video: th-cam.com/video/wrcmqeBgvOk/w-d-xo.html
Hopefully that will help you a bit. Thanks for stopping by!
Great video. I have an 08 t&c as well. When I steer left to right I hear a boing noise. I replaced the sway bar links but while changing them I noticed the sway bar had play to it. I could move it up, down and side to side a tiny bit. Could my sway bar bushings be causing this noise. Keep up the videos and thank you.
If you are having a "boing" noise while turning it is most likely upper coil spring mount.
how come you didn't Torq the rear bolts?
@Watchman Five - Hello! Well I did, buuuut unfortunately I didn't video and include that. I did remember to include the torque specs when I was editing though (for what it's worth). This video was literally the first video I ever made. I look back at it now and realize there were many things I either forgot to film or include for my final copy before publishing. I've really tried to make each new video better than the last and I am still learning every day how I can improve my content. I'm thinking I will probably make an updated video of this procedure that will include some things I forgot to film as well as shorten the video length. I'm sorry I forgot to include that for you. I really do appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback. I'm trying to be better!
Can any of ya fix my bushings in my Dodge Grand caravan 2007
@FreenChrist - I understand finding a good, honest shop can be frustrating. I wish I could help you. However, I notice you're on the 2008+ video and I do have another video that is for your year. Here is a link: th-cam.com/video/jTTLODiwYmQ/w-d-xo.html Maybe that video can help you get the job done. Thank you for stopping by!
@@javosgarage
Thanks
Remove the sway bar end links and replace them at the same time.
What is the size of busing ? 27.1 or 28 mm?
Great question! I have a 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan. I Replaced the bushings, and later had a horrible creaking, and crunching noise when going over uneven surfaces. Sounded really bad! After tons of research, I discovered all the listings and documents are WRONG about the size!! Really sucks that you can't depend on the part to fit properly!! The books are ALL WRONG!!!!! They make a 26mm, 27mm, and 28mm size bushing. And the books claim they will all fit my van. That"s a lie!! You absolutely have to measure your sway bar to get the right bushing for yourself!! Mine was a 28mm bar, and they showed the proper bushing was a 26mm ID to fit. I naturally believed it!! BIG LIE, or their just plain stupid!!! LOL!! The bushing was too tight on sway bar because of wrong size, and would not allow the bar to rotate easily as it should when needed. That sway bar has to rotate inside bushing freely all the time as suspension works all the time. That' what was causing the horrible sound. I disconnected links to test my theory, and had a hell of a time moving that bar! And when I did get it to move, guess what! There was that same horrible creaking, and crunching sound!! So, make sure you measure your bar, and determine the correct size bushing for yourself. Don't depend on those books, or factory specs. All sway bars are different sizes on the same vehicle. Why? Don't Know. They will list a choice of sizes for your particular vehicle. Just make sure you measure your bar to get the right size. You know they actually make bushings with grease fittings so to keep lubed and quiet. Interesting! Hope this helps everybody, so you don't have to go through what I did. Choose the exact proper size bushing for your size bar!!!
No rust at all underneath! how come? perhaps you live in some warm-weather state?
I live in a more drier climate, but certainly not warm weather. The roads aren't salted here, they use magnesium chloride which seems to take less of a toll on vehicles. I can always tell cars from the mid-west and east coast the minute I get under them though, they definitely look much different! Thanks for stopping by!
Excellent video