How-To: Replace Front Sway Bar Bushings | Dodge Grand Caravan
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Living on a dirt road in Vermont is tough on a suspension. That familiar clunkity clunk clunk was getting louder. With only 70,000 miles on our 2015 Dodge Grand Caravan it was time to replace the front sway bar bushings. This is how I did it.
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I just put new struts, control arms, engine mounts, and sway bar links on my 2012 GC. The sway bar bushings are the last bit before I get an alignment.
Thank you for your video showing how it's done. It's going to be a big help.
I have all new motor mounts ready to be installed sitting on my bench 😀 Thanks for the feedback 🙏
Good video. I just put front struts and new sway bar links on mine and it actually increased the noise of my sway bar mount bushings. Glad I found your video because I wanted to get an idea how long it would take to change them. The heat shield looks like a pain in the arse to work around so good to see a well made video of this!
Thank you! I have always found youtube videos to be such a HUGE help before starting any project. I learn so much from others. So thankful to give back! Glad it helped. Be safe!
Its always a good practice to replace the sway bar links aswell when replacing the worn out bushings. All Van's from 2011 to 2020 are the same. Great video thanks.
I've heard that from someone else... but currently the end links don't make any noise, they have no play in them and they are really easy to replace if they do start making noise. Thanks so much for watching and for your feedback!
1998 thru 2020 bushings relied on sway bar to the point they wear out quickly. The lower control arm bushing requires way too much help and replacing that bushing requires separating the front carriage from the middle carriage 10 to 12 bolts. When this bushing goes out the sway bar bushings go quickly
Much respect to you for making such a detailed video. The camera work is superb and as good as I’ve seen ever. Stay up my dude.
Thank you 🙏
Thank you for the video! We have a 2010 GC with 150K miles. I've replace the control arms due to blown bushings and worn ball joints. We narrowed down the clunking to the sway bar bushings and the sway bar links. I'll go ahead and get new struts since it's such high mileage. I'm glad I have an electric ratchet!
Hope you fix it!! Glad the video was helpful.
much respect to you buddy. I have a car lift and still hate doing the bushings on these but its such a common reason for clunking and such a cheap part its a must!
Always wanted a lift! But I do what I can 👍 I appreciate it 🙏
Nice video, always good to have multiple views of these types of "simple" fixes. For anyone else doing this I recommend unbolting that heat shield. It's just 2 10 mm bolts on the other side of the frame. You can't get it out because the exhaust blocks it but you can move it around and have a much easier time getting to that one bolt. There's a channel called Javo's garage where he does this same job and he removed the next shield.
Also....I would remove the tires. You still have to jack it up of course but you can do almost everything NOT under the vehicle. And if you're doing the bushings I would do the links at the same time. For another $40 and 4 bolts it's worth it.
None of that is meant to be criticism, just my experience. I appreciate the time you took to make the video.
FYI my end links are still solid after 108,000 miles 👍
@Marty Ferguson I finally replaced them just shy of 130,000 miles. I bought MOOG. I've used MOOG to rebuild suspensions on old mopars. Always liked their oem quality. They sure seemed well made with beefy hardware.
Thanks Michael for your video. I am 73 and still crawling under the van to fix thing, but not as agile as you! Thanks for the good camera work. I now have more confidence to "get er done".
So glad I can help! Awesome to hear you're still at it! I pray I'm healthy like you and follow in your footsteps when I'm in my 70s :) My best to you! Be safe my friend.
Thanks for sharing this video!
My 2013 handles like poo poo in the corners and now I know why and now I know how to replace them.
God bless you 💁
God bless you my friend! I hope your new bushings will fix the poo poo handling :)
Thanks Michael for the video. We just had the struts replaced on our 2009 Town & Country but we still have a noticeable front end clunk. The video will be a big help before I begin the replacement of the sway bar bushings!
William Prout Glad to hear it! I have replaced the struts, rear shocks and the sway bar bushings and our van feels safe and rides like it did when it was new. You’re going to like the finished result. 👍 Thanks for the comment my friend. My best to you.
Thank you for the video, Mike.
I just completed my 2011 Town and Country bushing replacement 75,500 miles on it. My van was just like your van bolts going into engine cradle, mine had some rust on the threads but came out fairly easy.
I wanted to let you know that I was able to unbolt the deflector over the passenger side bushing, 2-10mm bolts on the front side of it, it does not come out but does give you more room to get a socket on the bolts. I did find that an air ratchet helped on the passenger side front bolt with the deflector moved.
FYI The bolts on mine were 5/8" which surprised me. I tried metric first and nothing fit right surprised me that it was SAE.
Long story short it took me about 6 hours to get them replaced, about an hour apiece per bolt to remove them. If you could get more than a few clicks per swing of the socket it would have taken less time.
Thank you again, Greg
greg pfleghaar that’s such great news! And great additional tips on the shield and ratchet 👍 So glad it worked out. Should be good for another 75k 🙏💪 Thank you for letting me know! So glad the video helped.
Very good video. Thank you so much for actually putting the camera where it needs to be so we can see what has to be done. That was very good. I appreciate your hard work.
Thank you for your kind words 🙏
Thank you for the video Michael! I have a 2010 GC with 161K mi. I replaced the struts and strut mounts last weekend and just received my sway bar bushings and sway bar links today. Looks like another weekend job for me ... just in case.
JH awesome!! Thanks for the note 👍🙏
Thanks for the inspiring video. I've been working on my Dodge Grand caravan after getting astronomical prices from auto shops. I used to be a mechanic but I don't have the tools anymore. It's great to see a minimalistic approach. I will be replacing my sway bar bushings and struts. I've already knocked out the stabilizers. But I will chip away with it a little at a time thanks for the great video.
That's great news! Glad this vid was a help. I dont know how people can afford shop prices, DIY is the only way to go for me. Thank you for your kind words and be safe!
Smart fella! I need to do that as well, my major problem now is oil leak that happens due to worn rear main seal. Wish I have a tools to do myself, but probably will need mechanic assistance.
Hey thanks 🙏 Are you sure its the rear main? I had an oil leak... thought it was rear main. Was the oil cooler located under the intake. Seals wore out and it was leaking oil which traveled mostly under the intake, to the drivers side of the engine. Its a very common fail on the 3.6 pentastar. Hopefully its the oil cooler.... easier to repair than a rear main!
Your videos are way better than most people's very informative. Nice job
Thank you Ron 🙏 I appreciate the encouragement.
Great video! My shop told me we needed mew front control arms and ball joints before they could do an alignment, and that it would cost about $1300 plus the alignment. They said parts were about 700 and the rest was labor. I replaced the control arms, Moog, all as one with ball joint already on the control arm. Took me 6 hours, on my first attempt at doing a repair like this. Parts and s9me new tools were $300+$+$180. But I still have a clunk, so back up on the jack stands it goes to check the sway bar bushings. Wish I saw this video yesterday...lol... thanks for taking the time to do this. Good job!
David Cook sorry for your troubles but glad the video helps! Your van will ride like new when you’re done and you’ll have saved a ton of money!! ✌️👍 Be safe underneath that thing my friend 🙏 Thanks for your comment 🤗
@@sstressfl good morning. Quick question. When I was replacing the lower control arms on my Dodge Grand Caravan, I noticed there was play in the hub assembly to rotate forwards and backwards. Is this normal in the Grand Caravan?
David Cook yes that should just be slack in the CV/trans youre feeling. You should not have any grease leaks from the cv or clicking noise when turning or vibration while driving. And the hub bearing should not have any play.
@@sstressfl thanks! Have a great weekend!
David Cook you too 🙏
MAN i was not so lucky. them bolts fought me the WHOLE way out... 8 hrs laters sigh, she sounds great over the bumps now. Thanks for the video!
I'm sorry you had to fight them. That's too bad. Hopefully you're good for many many miles to come. Glad to hear the vid was helpful! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I did the bushings and she's straight again, but there is still a clunk, going to do the links next, fingers crossed that will take care of it.
Awesome :) if it’s a faster slightly higher pitch clunk it’s struts. If the clunk sounds like its right up high in the dashboard almost, it’s end links :)
@@sstressfl did the links today and that was it! Super happy to not be clunking down the road anymore.
@@jurgisgarbenis8315 WOOHOOO!! Glorious feeling isnt it?? :D Well done!!
great job mike. i think i might be doing one of these soon. pass side anyway. just replaced pass side front strut. quited it down a little but i could see a little play in the pass side bushing.
I found that the struts will make a faster slightly higher pitched rattle-clunk. The sway bar is a deep and slower clunk. The sway bar end links clunk like metal on metal high and off to the sides of the dashboard. Hope you get it sorted 🙏 thanks for the feedback and for sharing.
I hve a 2018 GC sxt. I know people give dodge and the vans a lot of shit but i honestly LOVE my van! Easy to maintain. Drives like. A big car. Has plenty of cruise and power for traveling. And most of parts are reasonably priced
My wife won’t have any other vehicle. This is our second and it’s been wonderful 💪😎
Nice video, I will be attempting some bushing soon on my dodge avenger which appears to be very similar to yours. Knocking can be sway bar links which i will be also replacing.
thanks for the video - great dyi and safety tips. Amazing so much wear on 70k; but you do tow and use it loaded with your family. Will be reviewing my own set up for wear and replacement. cheers!
Thank you! We also live on a dirt road. It can get so very bumpy and I know it accelerates wear. And yes we do carry a lot of weight with this poor van 😁
Very nice video Michael ! You are a very nice guy , kind of neighbor you want to stop by and have a beer and work on the bike or car. So I will takle my van soon, hopefully it is just the sway bar bushings and nothing else. So cheers from Canada I will have a beer for you ! Thanks a bunch !
Thanks for your kind words. I enjoy working with my hands... overall it's very peaceful and satisfying. I hope your project is a wonderful success :) Cheers my friend!
I found two 10 mm bolts that hold the heat shield towards the front of the van. If you loosen or remove these it helps you get the heat shield a bit higher and out of the way.
I did job this today along with sway bar links and out tie rod end. Hopefully that will lessen the rattles. Routan has 152k.
.
could you remove the heat shield? im trying to remove mine to get to the rack and pinion bolt under it
MrPureSin I didn’t remove it completely as I didn’t need to for the sway bushings. I don’t recall exactly but I think there was a couple more bolts further in towards the engine that were not totally accessible. Sorry I couldn’t be more help
I think it might be resting under the sway bar. I couldn't find any other screws. Thanks for the help tho
Excellent video I just bought a 2010 town and country and the bushings are horrible, I will be swapping those bad boys out for sure .
madskillz28 it’ll feel and sound like a new van 😁 Be safe! Thanks for your comment my friend 🙏
Thanks for the vid. It helped.
Just 2 suggestions.
1. Use an electric or air ratchet once the bolts have been broken loose.
2. Access the two 10mm bolts holding the heat shield from the front of the crossmember (on top). This allows the shield to move up and over enough to use the ratchet.
Oh man if I had an electric ratchet 😍 removing the shield ain’t hard and would help. I was being lazy.
@sstressfl hey if you remember how long was it the job ?
I had to drive to the store 35 mins away… but without that maybe 2 hours using standard jacks and Jack stands in a garage, work being done by an amateur mechanic 👍
Did this on my 2010 and replaced with Moog. What a pain in the butt and on top of that it did not solve my problem. It was the sway bar links that I had changed about a year earlier with some Amazon brand. Went with Moog and rattle fixed. Long story these things eat sway bar links.
vinceleto my links are good so far. No clunk from the sway bar. And the final rattle sound was gone once I replaced the struts. Thanks for the heads up on the end links!
Do not forget to check the links for looseness and replace them with the bushings if necessary. OEM struts on these vans can last a long time under normal driving conditions. Regular driving on rougher roads will shorten any suspension components life.
Tip: I fought replacing mine then unbolted the lower sway bar link nearest CV shaft as I did each side then reattached. Made it much easier.
Anything that makes it easier is a good tip 👍🤗
hi Michael, great video! What's the torque specs on the bushing bracket?
I’ve seen specs between 40-50lbs. Sounds about right. I just made mine “tight-ish”. I get less worried when it’s heavy bolts into steel than I do when it’s steel bolts into aluminum. If you want a hard # you can buy a month access to alldatadiy.com for $20 👍
You should replace the sway bar end links if they are original. The factory links wear out quick , and make the rattle clunky sound going over cracks in the road.
They are still solid! I did replace the struts later :) The van is doing great at 110,000 miles now!
Use white lithium grease on all bushings
I have a 2016 T&C which has the same noise. It has 56,000 miles. First need to put it on a lift to check it out before buying any parts.
I discovered that the deep clunk clunk was the sway bar. If it's a slightly higher and more rapid clunk its most likely the struts. Also check your sway bar end links. Mine were tight but some have told me they had to replace theirs.
Thanks for the video. Damn could you get any smaller garage? Makes me appreciate the space I have.
I grew up working in HUGE garage spaces. Perhaps someday I'll be able to have one of my own :)
I don't know if you're still answering questions for this video, but I have one. How hard do you think it would've been to replace the sway bar itself? Is there room enough to get the bended ends maneuvered around under there?
I try to reply to everyone no matter how long the video has been up :) If I removed the end links I suspect that sway bar would have come out of there. A little turning angling, wheel removed... BUT, before you commit, you could spend $19.99 for a month's access to the service manual at www.alldata.com They list the grand caravan under "Dodge or Ram Pickup". I have been using it for my Cadillac with great results. Hope that helps!
@@sstressfl Thank you for your rapid reply, Michael. I will certainly download and use the manual. My biggest problem is that I'm working on the ground using a jack. I don't know if it's possible to wiggle the thing out of there unless I have it up on a lift. I'll consult the manual. Thanks again!
@@isnamthere4690 if you get the van up on jack stands, you'll have no problem removing the swaybar
The bolts into the cradle/frame are not really isolated, I'm currently replacing the rack in a 2014 and I can't get the bolts out of the sway bar 😂 the salt gets up inside that frame apparently 😔
Oh I hate that! On our 2008 they were exposed and rusted horribly. I ended up breaking the bolts and welding the bushing clamps back down. Horribly ugly business. But we traded it for the 2015. And on the 2015, the bolts came out clean!
Not a fun job. Removing the driver side wheel makes the left side removal go smoother. Other tools which helped me: spark plug ratchet with flex head and short extension to go over the hose on the driver side, long flat head screwdriver to help pry up the heat shield on the passenger side and the biggest helper; ratcheting wrench with flex head. The OEM bolt head is 16mm. Unfortunately like other comments; the sway bar bushing only solved ‘some’ of the rattles in the front. The sway bar links seem tight as are the lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends... this leaves the struts... not a cheap job especially on an R/T. This video was a great help.
Thanks for the tip on the drivers side wheel! And yes I needed to swap out my struts as well. I did not use a preassembled strut and just purchased the strut shock. I used a spring compressor and got it done. I have purchased preassembled strut before (Monroe) and days later it stiffened up and road stiff and harsh and since I have read a lot of negative reviews. I avoid them now. Ultimately, I replaced the entire van suspension front and rear at around 70k (living on a dirt road). But it rides like new again ;)
Did you ever figureout what else was making the noise(s)? I'm tracking down front end noises on my 2012 GC, and I've replaced the struts & mounts, sway bar links, LF control arm w/ ball joint and still have the noise, so I suspected the sway bar bushings. Unfortunately, the front bolt on the driver's side sway bar bushing clamp broke in the frame. I see no other way to fix it than to weld it, but it's sticking up off the frame about 1/4" on the broken bolt side. I'm in a pickle as to how to get that side of the clamp forced down to the frame, then welding it. You are lucky yours came out so easily.
My big clunk noise was sway bar. My faster rattle clunk was struts. I think your 2012 is like my 2008 design... the sway bar bolts point upward and are exposed to the elements. On my 2008, I seem to recall buying a giant c-clamp and squeezing the clamp down until I was able to tack weld it. Then removed the c-clamp and welded the rest of it. It was ugly. Tough place to reach. And once I was done it worked fine. But I never felt satisfied about the fix. We traded it in not long after and I told the dealer about the repairs and they seemed to not care. I assumed they were going to wholesale it out anyway.
My biggest issue is figuring out where to place the floor jacks.
I place them under the frame rails or the major subframe mounting locations, usually. And keep the hydraulic jack in place for redundancy. I suggest googling jack points to see what you can find. Best to be sure!! 👍
@@sstressfl
I didn't expect to hear from you since this Job was 4 yrs ago, thank you very much. One more question: As far as the hardware goes, I didn't see any nuts removed, just bolts removed, is that because it isn't made with them and threads into the frame?
@JW52654 I’m still here :) and yes the clamps thread into the frame. Hopefully not too rusty too 🙏
@@sstressfl
Awesome, I was going to work on it today, but when I looked at it I thought how am I suppose to get to the nuts and gave up... I'm just about 70 yrs young 😊. Thanks again, now for sure I'll tackle it tomorrow.
@@JW52654 Sounds great. Praying for your safe project and a solid fix.
Do you remember the size wrench(s), & socket(s) you used for this job? I'm about to do mine & need to buy tools. If you remember & can tell me, that would help out a lot. thank you for posting this video. I found it very helpful!
Justin I think I mentioned the sizes in the video but perhaps not for everything. If I was buying tools for this job I would save money and buy a set! A 1/2” ratchet/metric socket set and a set of box/open metric wrenches. If you can afford it, pick up the SAE sizes too, but they are less frequently needed on today’s cars. 10mm to 21mm if you can find it. I’ve had to buy larger sizes individually. That’s a great start to your tool set. Oh and pick up a cheap plastic toolbox to keep them in. It’ll help you to stay organized. Hope that helps!
15 mm on both sides of the bolt. Driver’s side remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the vacuum vent canister put the canister out of the . Check vacuum holes for leaks and cracks
Did you check exact placement of sway bar as it will hit lower control arm and clunk
I dont understand.... the sway bar does not have variable positioning. It can only fit in one spot.
Good Job THANKS for this
I appreciate the feedback! Thank you :)
Maybe the drivers side is worse because the driver is always there.. Aka there's always weight there
My wife drives it all the time! I won’t tell her you said that 😂
Double up and stack good sturdy five gallon buckets
You need some ramps too. Good videos keep up the good work
I do have rhino ramps now. 4 of them. They come in handy when doing underneath stuff ;)
@@sstressfl you look like your working too hard, the bushings bolts are easier to get at from the back of the front clip.
This shit is like uhhhh. Baller.
much appreciated 😎🙏
Hi Michael, just replaced the sway bar bushings as per your video with factory Mopar rubber bushings on 2008 Town & Country Limited. Sway bar had rust and pitting under old bushings which I cleaned up. Put some 3M silicone paste on inside of bushing before reinstalling. All back together but now I have terrible creaking going over bumps and turning steering wheel. I seen a post which said "Do not lubricate factory Mopar rubber Bushing it will cause them to creak and squeak. So I took them apart and cleaned all silicone paste off with brake cleaner and assembled once again. Creaking going over bumps and turning steering wheel is there just like before. Sway bar links were replaced a couple of months ago with Mopar links. No problem. All this creaking started right after I replaced sway bar bushings it seems. Sounds so bad. Any thoughts?
That is very frustrating. It’s possible there is still residual lube on the bushing and that the creak will go away eventually. Maybe some lube got on the outside of the new bushing? Or the creaking is coming from something else. Perhaps returning the sway bar to its full tightness revealed a weakness in something else? Or it changed the stress/angle on a certain part Struts can squeak. Makes me think something needs to be loosened and retightened. Have you had the alignment checked? Hope you can find it or that it goes away on its own. Let me know what you find. I’m very curious.
@@sstressfl Hi Michael, I think there is still residual lube on the sway bar and bushing. I cleaned sway bar, outside inside on clamps and bushings multiple times with brake cleaner and reinstalled. I think the creaking was a bit better, but still very noticeable. I am wondering humidity & hot weather as well. I did an experiment with the old bushing and an impact socket. The slightly larger impact socket in bushing when dry I could not turn it clamped down in my hand. Applied 3M Silicone Paste and could tun the socket no problem. Then got brake cleaner and cleaned everything best I could multiple times. Even though it appears to be clean I could tell there was still a smooth residual lube feeling on both parts. So you I believe are correct. As well I can feel the passenger side new sway bar link vibration when hearing the creak through my hand with my hand on it. I am not sure if it is the sway bar bushing binding and then letting go or the strut. I will wait a week and if it does not clear itself take further action. I don't want to put quick struts on the van as i want to keep the ride comfort of the spring for a Town & Country Limited and quick strutsts are the same for Town and Country Limited and Caravan. I know you have had issues with Quick Struts. Do you have any advice for struts if and when I need them, Thanks so much, Mike
From another post I found: Someone I know with a good deal of training from the Chrysler engineers told me the following:
"Don't grease the sway bar bushings! They are designed to grip the metal on both sides. The inside of the bushing will flex when the sway bar rotates, the contact surfaces stay in place. This also helps the sway bar return to it's original position when the load is reduced. We had some minivans that were squeaking, so the guys started putting grease on the sway bar bushings. It fixed it...for like a mile. Then they'd come back in squeaking worse than ever"
This statement makes sense to me. I just put Moogs in my 2006 300C (27mm sway bar). I didn't grease them. Now, when sitting still, if I turn the steering wheel back and forth, lock to lock, I have a ton of grumbling noises, I know it's the bushing gripping and letting loose as the sway bar rotates. I have a few thoughts:
- The OEM bushings are softer and would be more likely to flex with the bar, while the Moogs are hard and may NEVER actually be able to grip and flex like that. If that's the case, I guess the only solution would be OEM bushings or grease on the Moogs.
@@theartofmichaelpape This is promising. Perhaps in a week or so it'll get quiet. I put quick struts in my 2008 Grand Caravan and I hated the ride. It was so stiff and harsh! I later read about how the OEM strut components, like the top plates and the coils are better quality than what you get from aftermarket. So when it was time to change them in the 2015 Grand Caravan (around 70,000 miles), I did the old spring compressor thing and put in new kyb struts and our 2015 van (130,000 miles on it now) still rolls like new. This is what I bought: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3537783&cc=3309782&pt=7584&jsn=12
Do polyurethane bushings work better/hold up longer?
That was my thought initially. But I read that they sqeak even if you use poly lube! Stick with OEM style and do not lube them. Dry is the proper install.
Have a 2011that has been clunking in the front end for the past 2 years.
Was thinking maybe the struts. Have you had to replace the struts on this van?
The big deep sounding clunk was the sway bar bushings. The faster lighter clunks came from the struts and I replaced those not long after I replaced the bushings. Then recently around 125,000 miles the sway bar end links went bad and THAT clunk sounded like it was up high near the dashboard. Its been a steady effort to rid the van of clunks! :) But its smooth and like new after each fix.
@@sstressfl Yea, I have the faster lighter clunks / clacks and a ton of them. Been going on for a couple of years. I have 73,000. on this 2011 Guess I need struts.
@@loghome7061 Sounds familiar. Dont be surprised if its multiple things making the noises. Once you get the struts done, you might find there are still some noises coming from the sway bar bushings. Just be prepared... emotionally lol
hello. do you know the exact sizes of the bolts (x4)? i have most of them, but i usually buy them as needed..tnx
I’m pretty sure 15mm!
Hello. I finished watching your video on the sway bar bushing replacement. Well today i ran in to a bit of a snag. I broke the front driver side bolt. Thoughts what to do?
Great video BTW... THX.
Hey Keith. Is it a 2015 or newer? Or the older style?
@@sstressfl 2013
Keith Jesso if there is anyway to drill it out and retap the hole that would be ideal. On my 2008 I could not get a drill anywhere near the broken bolt so I ended up using a giant c-clamp to hold down the bushing clamp, then I tack welded the bushing clamp to the frame. Really ugly fix but I ended up getting a new van a year later.
Not a bad idea, thank you
You're welcome! And thanks for your kind comments. Hope you fix it, my friend!
Sway bar / torsion bushings.
Ratchet wrench for sure.. great vid ty
Definitely! If I had some for sure 👍 Thank you for your feedback 🙏
What's the size of the bolt
Its been too long and I dont remember, BUT.... you can do what I did and bring the bolt with you to the hardware store. Match it up :)
Where did you get the green shirt?
Libertarian Dad somewhere in Colorado... probably Estes Park 👍
Did you have to remove links?
The end links? No they stayed attached. Some people say to change them too, but mine were and still are tight and clunk free so I still have my original end links. Hope I understood and answered your question!
Apparently there's just 2 boldts you can undo to get that heat shield out of the way
Thanks Michael for the video. We just had the struts replaced on our 2009 Town & Country but we still have a noticeable front end clunk. The video will be a big help before I begin the replacement of the sway bar bushings!
William Prout really glad it can help!! Be safe :)