Thanks for watching...Glad you found the info helpful. These new electronics installs do not need to be overly complicated or scary...a little prior planning goes a long way.
Great video, easy to understand. Happy you just used circuit breaker without battery switch. Have older boat and battery switch confuses me, dont see any videos show how to connect to motor and ignition, so i didnt want the headache. I understand this setup. Many thanks
I thought about adding the switch...I even have one to use just in case I change my mind...Sometimes we make things way more complicated than they need to be though. Glad you found this video helpful
I came onto your video on TH-cam while scrolling through. I Note One thing: your content is excellent, and I enjoy watching your videos. You're doing quite good. I've spent the last five years working as a graphic designer & video editor. One thing caught my eye on your channel. The thumbnail for your video does a poor job of drawing the viewer's attention. It negatively affects channel CTR. I therefore decided to redesign the thumbnails for your videos and create additional thumbnails for them. If you are interested then let me know Keep creating content.
I had to add an additional battery for my electronics right after getting my boat in 2019. They had the electronics hooked to the starting battery, I literally ran it dead and had to go back to the dock with my trolling motor.
When I got my Garmin Force, I found that on 24V it ran the boat just as well as my Minkota at 36V…so I just used the extra 12V for my gear. I plan to switch to lithium at some point, hope not to soon though 😂. Hope to get another 3 years out of these batteries
thank you for this video very straight forward, you made it simple . . .thank you. I do have one question; I heard that your FFS should be on its own circuit (dedicated battery)? right now I have Garmin echomap uhd 93sv, lights, usb and gps puck on 1 battery. I'm getting a lvs34 and I was wonder if I should have a seperate battery for it or just get a bigger battery and run everything from that (except my trolling motor)
These questions are tough for a honest answer as it very dependent on your situation IMO. The quick and easy answer is always going to be get a stand alone battery. However there is nothing wrong with using a larger battery to run what you have listed....IF setup properly. Some key things to think about...how long do you fish? What are your charging habits? If you get a dedicated Lithium Battery for the LVS 34 does your existing charger still work or do you need another charger? Alot of things to really consider. I run 4 106 Ultras and the LVS34 on only my dedicated battery...no interference, and last a full 8 hours ( I do sleep my other units when not in use) Another thing to think about, is how long does your current setup last on the water? The LVS34 is not a giant drain...about 1-2 Amp. So if your barely using your battery now...you may be OK. Hope this sheds some light...just alot of variables to consider and really think about.
Great video, very clear cut explanation. Is there any benefit to cutting the standard 14 guage power cable higher up than the 6ft length and splicing in the 10 guage extension up even higher?
You can, but no "real" noticeable advantage...the loss is extremely minimal. I recommend splicing in a place that works best for you. On mine I spliced one short since originally the splice would have been up inside the wire run within the boat. I wanted the splice easily accessible in case of repair needs.
I have a new boat - and almost the exact same set up. 2 106sv’s at the bow, 1 126 at the helm. Livescope GLS 34, etc. Same battery just a little bigger. Same fuse box was put in as well - all from Dealer. My issue is that my Livescope keeps dropping - based on the fact that the black box is at a max of 12 V upon full charge and within 30 min of being on drops to 11.9 - 11.8. My battery is also used as cranking! I need some suggestions on how to fix!
Thats alot of draw on a standard cranking battery IMO...considering all the other auxiliaries that are running or powered up as well possibly (Livewells, pumps, lights, radio, ect) type stuff. I would consider a separate battery for the electronics only. The one thing that is standing out to me though and seems a bit strange is the max of 12V. A fully charged battery should be holding about 12.6V at start of use...you state only 12V. IMO again even though I feel your load is a bit high for your setup for a full day of use, you should definitely not drop below 12V that fast. I had a very similar issue before of a battery not fully charging, and discharging fast...turned out I had a bad cell and needed a new battery. I would get the battery checked out to rule that out. If the battery is good, look at the wiring to the fishfinders and livescope...is it the right size for the run length?
Excellent video, clean, simple, and looks professionally done!
Cleanest expliantion video inhave seen yet !
Thank you, glad you enjoyed
Fantastic video with great, simple illustrations and explanations.
😊 Thank You
Very well done informative video. Thank you for taking the time to put this together
Thanks for watching...Glad you found the info helpful. These new electronics installs do not need to be overly complicated or scary...a little prior planning goes a long way.
Great video, easy to understand. Happy you just used circuit breaker without battery switch.
Have older boat and battery switch confuses me, dont see any videos show how to connect to motor and ignition, so i didnt want the headache. I understand this setup. Many thanks
I thought about adding the switch...I even have one to use just in case I change my mind...Sometimes we make things way more complicated than they need to be though. Glad you found this video helpful
Great video and diagrams.
Glad you found it helpful! Thank You
thanks for sharing my friend great information
You're welcome! Thanks for Watching
I came onto your video on TH-cam while scrolling through. I Note One thing: your content is excellent, and I enjoy watching your videos. You're doing quite good.
I've spent the last five years working as a graphic designer & video editor. One thing caught my eye on your channel. The thumbnail for your video does a poor job of drawing the viewer's attention. It negatively affects channel CTR. I therefore decided to redesign the thumbnails for your videos and create additional thumbnails for them.
If you are interested then let me know
Keep creating content.
I had to add an additional battery for my electronics right after getting my boat in 2019. They had the electronics hooked to the starting battery, I literally ran it dead and had to go back to the dock with my trolling motor.
When I got my Garmin Force, I found that on 24V it ran the boat just as well as my Minkota at 36V…so I just used the extra 12V for my gear. I plan to switch to lithium at some point, hope not to soon though 😂. Hope to get another 3 years out of these batteries
thank you for this video very straight forward, you made it simple . . .thank you. I do have one question; I heard that your FFS should be on its own circuit (dedicated battery)? right now I have Garmin echomap uhd 93sv, lights, usb and gps puck on 1 battery. I'm getting a lvs34 and I was wonder if I should have a seperate battery for it or just get a bigger battery and run everything from that (except my trolling motor)
These questions are tough for a honest answer as it very dependent on your situation IMO. The quick and easy answer is always going to be get a stand alone battery. However there is nothing wrong with using a larger battery to run what you have listed....IF setup properly.
Some key things to think about...how long do you fish? What are your charging habits? If you get a dedicated Lithium Battery for the LVS 34 does your existing charger still work or do you need another charger? Alot of things to really consider.
I run 4 106 Ultras and the LVS34 on only my dedicated battery...no interference, and last a full 8 hours ( I do sleep my other units when not in use)
Another thing to think about, is how long does your current setup last on the water? The LVS34 is not a giant drain...about 1-2 Amp. So if your barely using your battery now...you may be OK.
Hope this sheds some light...just alot of variables to consider and really think about.
Great video, very clear cut explanation. Is there any benefit to cutting the standard 14 guage power cable higher up than the 6ft length and splicing in the 10 guage extension up even higher?
You can, but no "real" noticeable advantage...the loss is extremely minimal.
I recommend splicing in a place that works best for you. On mine I spliced one short since originally the splice would have been up inside the wire run within the boat. I wanted the splice easily accessible in case of repair needs.
Great Video! Is it necessary to keep the fuse on the power cable since you're connecting it to a fuse box?
Technically it is not needed.
Did you remove all inline fuses that were on your electronics and just use the fuse block fuses?
I left them in my install, but did not need to due to the fuses on the block.
Can you drop some links for the hardware that you used. Specifically the connectors
It may take a bit, but I see what I can find. The problem is that only some are available on Amazon, and others I had to get at the Marine store.
I have a new boat - and almost the exact same set up. 2 106sv’s at the bow, 1 126 at the helm. Livescope GLS 34, etc. Same battery just a little bigger. Same fuse box was put in as well - all from Dealer. My issue is that my Livescope keeps dropping - based on the fact that the black box is at a max of 12 V upon full charge and within 30 min of being on drops to 11.9 - 11.8. My battery is also used as cranking! I need some suggestions on how to fix!
Thats alot of draw on a standard cranking battery IMO...considering all the other auxiliaries that are running or powered up as well possibly (Livewells, pumps, lights, radio, ect) type stuff. I would consider a separate battery for the electronics only.
The one thing that is standing out to me though and seems a bit strange is the max of 12V. A fully charged battery should be holding about 12.6V at start of use...you state only 12V. IMO again even though I feel your load is a bit high for your setup for a full day of use, you should definitely not drop below 12V that fast.
I had a very similar issue before of a battery not fully charging, and discharging fast...turned out I had a bad cell and needed a new battery. I would get the battery checked out to rule that out. If the battery is good, look at the wiring to the fishfinders and livescope...is it the right size for the run length?
If you are using a fuse box why did not remove the inline fuses. Seems like duplication that is not needed
I left them in case I change things up at some point and want to use them. The is no advantage protection wise in leaving them in this setup.