How timely, I'm installing these tomorrow for the first time. I'm just building a cabinet for my Bucktool sander, but using the opportunity to up my game with drawer slides. Thank you. Subscribed.
When it comes to those pin adjusters in the back. I always use them to level out the drawer and square it up to the opening before I put the front on. When i try to use them to adjust the front's height it always tips the top out to far I find, especially on inset fronts.
Inset drawers are, of course, the most difficult to get right because anything off shows up like sore thumb. Since I do a lot of work in older houses which move around and which can torque the cabinet boxes out of square, I like to use the traditional drawer frames attached to the face frame and to the back of the cabinet. The slides sit on top of the frames. That way, if things really get squirrely, I can loosen the screws of a drawer frame and nudge the whole assembly up or down if needed. Essentially that gives me gross adjustment of the back of the drawer, and the Blum pins give me a fine adjustment. Once I get everything set right, though, the Blum slides seem to stay where they should.
@@enduringcharm I see what you mean now. I mostly do new cabinets, but I had to redo an older kitchen a few years ago, I came up with a similar solution. Nothing was straight in those cabinets so I had to come up with something.
This was very helpful. Thank you! I have a couple of questions for you. I'm making a custom built-in cabinet with full overlay doors & drawer. 1) If my inside depth of cabinet is 23.5" from front of face frame to the back of the cabinet, what length of slides would you recommend? 2) And how deep should I make the drawer box?
Each manufacturer of drawer slides has different available depths, and there is no standard really. For a standard depth kitchen cabinet, though, a slide depth in the area of 21 or 22 inches is typical, with the remaining depth being used for hardware attachment or just wasted space. So you need to pick your actual slides first, and you'll just pick the ones which maximize the available depth. When you get them in your shop, mock up the slides in position the way they will be mounted in your cabinets, and then back into your drawer measurements.
Professionally built drawers, whether by manufacturer or woodworker, should have a reveal or recess under the bottom because the drawer bottom is set into a groove located above the edge of the drawer sides. It's possible you have a drawer with a panel just nailed or screwed to the bottom edges of the sides, but that would be a homemade drawer, I would guess. There are drawer slides which can accommodate that construction, but they won't be hidden. They will either attach to the sides of the drawer (which requires space between the drawer and cabinet face frame) or they will attach under the bottom edge of the sides and show.
Those are some beautiful cabinets you built.
Thank you--the client was very happy too!
How timely, I'm installing these tomorrow for the first time. I'm just building a cabinet for my Bucktool sander, but using the opportunity to up my game with drawer slides. Thank you. Subscribed.
It does seem complicated, but I think you explained it all about as clearly as can be done. Thanks.
Very helpful. That cabinet you built is so nice!
Thanks!
When it comes to those pin adjusters in the back. I always use them to level out the drawer and square it up to the opening before I put the front on. When i try to use them to adjust the front's height it always tips the top out to far I find, especially on inset fronts.
Inset drawers are, of course, the most difficult to get right because anything off shows up like sore thumb. Since I do a lot of work in older houses which move around and which can torque the cabinet boxes out of square, I like to use the traditional drawer frames attached to the face frame and to the back of the cabinet. The slides sit on top of the frames. That way, if things really get squirrely, I can loosen the screws of a drawer frame and nudge the whole assembly up or down if needed. Essentially that gives me gross adjustment of the back of the drawer, and the Blum pins give me a fine adjustment. Once I get everything set right, though, the Blum slides seem to stay where they should.
@@enduringcharm I see what you mean now. I mostly do new cabinets, but I had to redo an older kitchen a few years ago, I came up with a similar solution. Nothing was straight in those cabinets so I had to come up with something.
This was very helpful. Thank you! I have a couple of questions for you. I'm making a custom built-in cabinet with full overlay doors & drawer.
1) If my inside depth of cabinet is 23.5" from front of face frame to the back of the cabinet, what length of slides would you recommend?
2) And how deep should I make the drawer box?
Each manufacturer of drawer slides has different available depths, and there is no standard really. For a standard depth kitchen cabinet, though, a slide depth in the area of 21 or 22 inches is typical, with the remaining depth being used for hardware attachment or just wasted space. So you need to pick your actual slides first, and you'll just pick the ones which maximize the available depth. When you get them in your shop, mock up the slides in position the way they will be mounted in your cabinets, and then back into your drawer measurements.
@@enduringcharm thank you for your reply.
What if my drawers are flat bottom? Will these work?
Professionally built drawers, whether by manufacturer or woodworker, should have a reveal or recess under the bottom because the drawer bottom is set into a groove located above the edge of the drawer sides. It's possible you have a drawer with a panel just nailed or screwed to the bottom edges of the sides, but that would be a homemade drawer, I would guess. There are drawer slides which can accommodate that construction, but they won't be hidden. They will either attach to the sides of the drawer (which requires space between the drawer and cabinet face frame) or they will attach under the bottom edge of the sides and show.