Been watching loads of these videos, and laughing that every one so far has a "just click here" with Rob's finger pointing to... an empty space hahahah
I was told you dont need a resistor for the led on the switches unless you want the LED to be dimmer. Can I get away with running 2 green illuminated AV switches directly?
Rob, sorry for asking a question on a video that so old I hope this message gets to you ..just curious I followed your tutorial and successfully installed a illuminated AV switch in my sons Saber, thank you so much for the video it was very very helpful very descriptive.... question though noticed in the video you use 16 gauge to wire the switch.... Would 26 gauge be acceptable for wiring an illuminated AV switch? I used 26 gauge throughout his saber doing a complete rewiring and everything seems to be working properly It wasn’t till after revisiting your video I noticed you said you use 16 gauge on the switch. Wondering if I should go back in and rework the switch with 16 gauge. Thanks
any reason you use 16 gauge wire fir the led on the switch? it's thick wire, you usually use 28 gauge or 26 in your videos . many thanks for all the videos I really find them helpful
So on a proffieboard would I wire the led power from the 3.3v? Cause I'm using an RGB cree led so the one I wire it to may not be on all the time. I assume it would go to 3.3v.
Dunno if this question would be answered but if I just recently bought a CFX for my saber build, do i need a resistor for illuminated 12mm av switches? I've seen the internals and builds of other sabers, as well as my saberforge, and I don't see any resistors attached
Hey Rob, great instructional video as always. So, I'm brainstorming for a build that I want to do with a NB, a tri cree LED, and an illuminated momentary av switch, and I was wondering if you could help me out. You said the NB essentially fulfills the job of the momentary to latching converter, so I won't need one, which is great. My question is with all those extra wires coming from the main LED since it's a tri cree, won't this create a problem when wiring them to the same spot on the NB as the wires for the LED from the illuminated av switch? Is there a way around this?
+Michael Wehrley Sharing contacts is not a problem - especially on the ground spots. What I often do to save wires is to link the LED (+) wires at the LED, then run one (+) wire to the board, rather than join 3 (+) wires at the board.
+Rob Petkau Awesome idea. I hadn't thought of that, but it'll keep me from creating a build up of excessive wires on the NB, which is exactly what I wanted to avoid. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the great Vid Rob. Will this be the same process if I want to wire the AV LED in series with the main LED? I tried this and the main LED has dimmed and the AV LED is very dim, so I am presuming the resistor from the main led also effects the AV LED or am I wrong? I want to wire the AV LED so it goes on and off with the saber without a recharge port to a NB Board, any advice? thanks.
Rob, I have a yellow AV switch but ring not dot. Anyways, my question is; do you really need to use the momentary latch converter? I do plan on having it light up and I'll be using a NBv3 sound board. I'm buying my parts as TCSS has them. Just want to have a good set up and I want to do it myself. Thanks. Great video by the way, I've seen them all more than twice.
could I wire a latching switch on the positive wire from the battery pack and use that as a kill switch so to say. I plan to have it on the same wire as my momentary so it would obviously let the power flow when the latch is down. I only wonder Cuz I would rather not have a plug or any sort of thing like that
On a NB v3, wouldn't it be better to attach the switch led to the power indicator port? Because i suspect that the switch led would pulse the same way as the saber if you solder them parallel together like you did on the convertor, or am I wrong on this?
I have an RGB LED switch, would it be alright to use a dynaohm resistor and connect the legs to the accent pads? Custom saber shop doesn't have SMD resistors from what I saw.
Hey Rob, quick question. Can you wire switch LEDs in parallel with the main LED on a CFV8, or, is it absolutely necessary to wire them to the accent pads? Thanks.
what do you think to wiring the accent LED to multiple pads on a PLI for a variable gain PLI effect? I get the feeling it's a bad idea, but I want to be sure 😅
if I had an RGB LED as an accent LED and I wanted it to change color with the blade, would I be able to use the accent pads on a prism v5 or should I just go ahead and solder them to the same pads as the saber LED?
+Rob Petkau Btw nice LED Backing near your desk... Looks really star wars-y which I guess is what you were going for... Reminds of the panels on the opening starship in: A New Hope.
Can anybody help me out here? I'm having a hard time wiring the AV red ring using the dyna and the. 5ohm to main . I thought I had it at first but both we're flickering a bit. I took it apart since no luck getting it right. I've tried the pos side with dyna, negative, regular switch wire, I can't get any option to get the ring led and main lit to a steady level. Now I can't get the ring lit unless it's direct to pos/neg. Also now the main led turns on as soon as I make contact with the battery. Boot up and the brightness increases. I shut it down and the light dims but stays on. I have no idea what I'm doing but I'm trying and I need some help.
So its worth mentioning that the Dyna Ohm has a negative and positive pole unlike traditional resistors. Wired incorrectly it seems to draw nearly 40 mA. I also believe this is what just killed my NB V3. :-/
Been watching loads of these videos, and laughing that every one so far has a "just click here" with Rob's finger pointing to... an empty space hahahah
Perfect timing Rob, thanks. Just got my Red AV switch in the mail yesterday
How perfect, TCSS just got some Illuminated AV switches in stock and now a videos up :D
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that DynaOhm variable resistors must be installed on the positive leg of the accent LED.
Positive wire from switch to negative side of dynaohm resistor.
+NanoRex Good point. I'm not sure.
+Rob Petkau the site says the positive line
If you don't wanna have the trouble of wiring it yourself you can just buy the pre wired one in the modular wiring section at TCSS
I've been waiting for this tutorial for some time now. Thanks!
Would love to follow along but I've been waiting for months for many items to be restocked on the site and they still aren't..
what an awesome video exactly what I was looking for. thank you Rob
As usual, very clear and helpful. Thanks!
Could u tell me how you would wire an aux button along with an illuminated AV switch?
I was told you dont need a resistor for the led on the switches unless you want the LED to be dimmer. Can I get away with running 2 green illuminated AV switches directly?
Rob, sorry for asking a question on a video that so old I hope this message gets to you ..just curious I followed your tutorial and successfully installed a illuminated AV switch in my sons Saber, thank you so much for the video it was very very helpful very descriptive....
question though noticed in the video you use 16 gauge to wire the switch....
Would 26 gauge be acceptable for wiring an illuminated AV switch?
I used 26 gauge throughout his saber doing a complete rewiring and everything seems to be working properly
It wasn’t till after revisiting your video I noticed you said you use 16 gauge on the switch.
Wondering if I should go back in and rework the switch with 16 gauge.
Thanks
any reason you use 16 gauge wire fir the led on the switch? it's thick wire, you usually use 28 gauge or 26 in your videos . many thanks for all the videos I really find them helpful
+Bri w (willbo) It's a mistake - that's 28g
+Rob Petkau ah. thank you. I got 28 gauge and 26 ready for my build
So on a proffieboard would I wire the led power from the 3.3v? Cause I'm using an RGB cree led so the one I wire it to may not be on all the time. I assume it would go to 3.3v.
Is there a chassis disk for a Crystal Focus Sound Card? and what does R.I.C.E. do and is it worth buying? The components I mean?
Wow I LOVE your videos! So well done!
Dunno if this question would be answered but if I just recently bought a CFX for my saber build, do i need a resistor for illuminated 12mm av switches? I've seen the internals and builds of other sabers, as well as my saberforge, and I don't see any resistors attached
Hey Rob, great instructional video as always. So, I'm brainstorming for a build that I want to do with a NB, a tri cree LED, and an illuminated momentary av switch, and I was wondering if you could help me out. You said the NB essentially fulfills the job of the momentary to latching converter, so I won't need one, which is great. My question is with all those extra wires coming from the main LED since it's a tri cree, won't this create a problem when wiring them to the same spot on the NB as the wires for the LED from the illuminated av switch? Is there a way around this?
+Michael Wehrley Sharing contacts is not a problem - especially on the ground spots. What I often do to save wires is to link the LED (+) wires at the LED, then run one (+) wire to the board, rather than join 3 (+) wires at the board.
+Rob Petkau Awesome idea. I hadn't thought of that, but it'll keep me from creating a build up of excessive wires on the NB, which is exactly what I wanted to avoid. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the great Vid Rob.
Will this be the same process if I want to wire the AV LED in series with the main LED? I tried this and the main LED has dimmed and the AV LED is very dim, so I am presuming the resistor from the main led also effects the AV LED or am I wrong? I want to wire the AV LED so it goes on and off with the saber without a recharge port to a NB Board, any advice? thanks.
+Tony Celliers I would not wire them in series - the resistor will affect both. I would wire them in parallel
Rob, I have a yellow AV switch but ring not dot. Anyways, my question is; do you really need to use the momentary latch converter? I do plan on having it light up and I'll be using a NBv3 sound board. I'm buying my parts as TCSS has them. Just want to have a good set up and I want to do it myself. Thanks. Great video by the way, I've seen them all more than twice.
+Shawn Pierce You do not need the converter as the NB uses momentary switches
+Rob Petkau thanks Rob. Like I said I love your videos.
could I wire a latching switch on the positive wire from the battery pack and use that as a kill switch so to say. I plan to have it on the same wire as my momentary so it would obviously let the power flow when the latch is down. I only wonder Cuz I would rather not have a plug or any sort of thing like that
How do I wire it if it’s an RGB AV switch ?
On a NB v3, wouldn't it be better to attach the switch led to the power indicator port? Because i suspect that the switch led would pulse the same way as the saber if you solder them parallel together like you did on the convertor, or am I wrong on this?
Correct. I believe on the new NB3 there is a 3.3v pad to use for that purpose described in the manual.
Thank you Rob, for the great help
I have an RGB LED switch, would it be alright to use a dynaohm resistor and connect the legs to the accent pads? Custom saber shop doesn't have SMD resistors from what I saw.
Great video!
Is there anything wrong or negative about using a latching led av switch?
+Michael Phillips I'm not a fan. They are really big/long.
Would this be the same for a neopixel blade
Where’s the video for choosing your switch?
Hey Rob, quick question. Can you wire switch LEDs in parallel with the main LED on a CFV8, or, is it absolutely necessary to wire them to the accent pads? Thanks.
what do you think to wiring the accent LED to multiple pads on a PLI for a variable gain PLI effect? I get the feeling it's a bad idea, but I want to be sure 😅
+PangLiang It would be hard to get it to operate like you are expecting.
+Rob Petkau I think you're right... I guess I can make do with a single step PLI for now 👍
if I had an RGB LED as an accent LED and I wanted it to change color with the blade, would I be able to use the accent pads on a prism v5 or should I just go ahead and solder them to the same pads as the saber LED?
Thats covered in the PRISM manual, under 'Add a crystal chamber to your saber'.
Will you do a tutorial on installing the graflex 2.0 with nano biscotti?
+FaDelegendz101 Perhaps.
+Rob Petkau Good....(sidious voice)
what editing software did you use for that black info bearing thing in the beginning of the video?
+TheMorphingDruid cyberlink power director
thank you :D
+Rob Petkau Btw nice LED Backing near your desk... Looks really star wars-y which I guess is what you were going for... Reminds of the panels on the opening starship in: A New Hope.
Please do a tutorial on how to fully wire everything and anything to the Nano Biscotte V3
+Luis Massaro Coming soon
So does the Nano Biscotte v3 have an accent LED pad? Or is it still the same set up as explained in the video?
I do not believe there is an accent LED pad, but in the manual it explains how to set up a simple accent LED.
What is your recommended temperature for soldering these kinds of components?
+WarMachine425 Basic rule is to use the lowest temp you can and still get quick clean joints
Can anybody help me out here? I'm having a hard time wiring the AV red ring using the dyna and the. 5ohm to main . I thought I had it at first but both we're flickering a bit. I took it apart since no luck getting it right. I've tried the pos side with dyna, negative, regular switch wire, I can't get any option to get the ring led and main lit to a steady level. Now I can't get the ring lit unless it's direct to pos/neg. Also now the main led turns on as soon as I make contact with the battery. Boot up and the brightness increases. I shut it down and the light dims but stays on. I have no idea what I'm doing but I'm trying and I need some help.
would it be possible to connect the AV switch LED so it powers on when the kill key is removed (using a Nano Biscotte)?
+fhammer07 Yes. just run it off the boards + and -
+Rob Petkau Using the right resistor of course
worked like a charm! thanks for doing these videos. i got an MHS (+NB) hilt done in record time, including the AV switch! :D
+fhammer07 Excellent!
Thank you so much for making this!
so how does one wire it with a nano biscotte v3 for it to illuminate? I'm a bit confused with the short short explanation in the video
There should be an explanation on your sound board manual for an "accent LED"
So its worth mentioning that the Dyna Ohm has a negative and positive pole unlike traditional resistors. Wired incorrectly it seems to draw nearly 40 mA. I also believe this is what just killed my NB V3. :-/
So I don't have the same stuff you do to test the switch how would I know which leg is which?
+Jachro Use the coloured dot for refernce
Are there any chassis parts that fit saberforge sabers??
+Saxyman I do not know
www.shapeways.com/shops/goth-customsabers?section=M3+-+Chassis+%281.10%22+OD%29&s=0
Question, can I use 28 gauge wires on my accent led or no?
+theunkownwatcher yes - All the wire I use here is 28g
Thanks for your videos. Your work will allow me to repair and update the sabers my Boy's have. Maybe I will custom build one of my own?? ;)
Do I need a momentary to latching switch if I have nano biscotte sound board V3
+Suddsky s No - the Plecter sound boards all use a momentary switch. The board does the "latching"
Where's the link
The format changed on those switch conversion boards now I don't know how to wire it please make a video with the new version of the board
It's essentially the same. Just read what the new spots are labelled
how would this work for a multi die LED?
Essentially the same way.
thank you I appreciate I was confused, I was gonna use it with a latching switch.
what if i want the switch led to always be on?
then you can wire it straight to the battery pack
excellent :-) love your videos
hahaha now you do this. Thanks Canuck and CSS!
6:40 10:42 Nano Biscotte
If I saw this with sound only no video I’d swear it was a Minecraft Redstone tutorial or something like that