AWESOME DUDE!!! My son and I Nathan who just turned 10 are building a couple of sabers as a father son bonding thing. He is super excited!!! Thanks for all the info and technical expertise!! Take care and stay healthy and safe!! James
I love your videos! I was very much intimidated with the idea of doing the electronics myself until I watched several of your videos and I now feel very confident I will be able to do it just fine!
You know Rob, watching tutorials to "hold me over" while i wait for my order to ship only makes it worse. i love it. But i think my favorite parts are the little tricks, like heat shrink over the end of the 4-40. Ive been in the hobby seriously for maybe a year now, and im still fascinated by the simplest things!! mtfbwy!!
I have had a idea for a saber and I'm going to use all custom saber shop parts I have been learning how to etch so I will lay so beautiful pattern on the Sabres when I get chance.
The way I would twist wires is to hold the thing they are attached to in one hand, and then hold the other end in a drill and turn the drill on until it is nicely twisted
+The Nerd That's how I do it as well. It makes the twisted pair look nicer and are less likely to untwist. I make custom wiring harnesses for a living.
Awesome video! Was wondering if you can make a vid on how to make the effect of the blade retract. I notice other lightsabers have the effect of the light coming out from the hilt to the tip then retracting back just like the real thing. Thanks!
+jague2u Hi, What you are describing is a combination of a sting of LEDs in the blade, and a microchip controlling them. Those sabers tend to be fragile. The sabers we build and use have a single high power LED and a removeable blade with no LEDs in it.
Rob Petkau Oh I see. I wanted to build something like the Makoto Lightsaber and was wondering how they made an actual dueling saber with that effect that you can actually use.. I'd rather have fun making it than spend 400 dollars to have one made. lol!
You can put the nuts on before you cut the threaded rod, which means no problems getting them started. Then, after cleaning up the cut ends, run the nut back up to the cut and gently turn back and forth (like you would with a tap) using the nut to re-cut the end of the thread. Then the nuts will go back on perfectly if you ever need to disassemble.
Can you change the main hilt and the blade holder while having the same mechanics and wiring? I am just a teen but when I earn enough money, I want to create my own lightsaber. This one was helpful but can you change the main hilt and the blade holder while having the same mechanics.i might also need to be able to understand how the construction works.
Great videos! Is there any way to wire a toggle or on/off switch for the speaker, allowing you to mute the speakers output without cutting power to the LED unit?
Hey Rob, if you drilled a hole in the hilt to charge the battery without taking it out, how would you secure it so the recharge port and the hole always stay aligned?
Can you a saber chassis with a recharge port, a buck puck (constant current driver) of 1000mA for 3.7v Li-Ion single LED driver, and a power level indicator (one seen in your Advanced Ascend Upgrade video).
A tip regarding cutting threaded rod or screws: Put a nut onto the thread before you cut it, so that after deburring the cut, the nut will clean up the thread when you take it off.
Hi, great step by step. Easy to follow along with and it makes sense. My question is: the battery you use is a 3.7volt yes? Well, if the led is 3.4 forward volts, and the sound card draws 3.4 to 5.5 volts(stated in desc.), how would your battery be strong enough to power both? Is the voltage shared and the milliamps are what's important? This is all new to me and i'm trying to get a grip on the specifics,(i've been learning about ohms law, and kirchoff's law) and you seem to know electronics very well. Thanks for any help you can give.
They share voltage in the sense that they both draw what they need. If your battery is super small the amp load will drop the voltage too much. If your battery has a good mA rating it's fine. I hope that helps.
If I'm wiring a tri cree led I would have 3 positive and 3 negative wires right? How would I wire it up to the NB then? Can I join the 3 positive wires into 1 and wire the rest the same way you did it?
I NEED A TUTORIAL ON HOW TO MAKE MY DREAM BUILD MY SABER WILL CONSIST OF: red tri-cree LEDs Activation style 10 Red anti vandal momentary switch Petit Crouton v3.5 whichever speaker you reccomend and any design choices you wish to add! THANK YOU MADCOW YOU ARE AWESOME!
Excellent video as always, Rob. That chassis system seems really cool. I would love to see you do a video like this and wire up a more complicated card i.e. the CF 7.5.
How do i install a crystal chamber on a lightsaber? And can you modify your parts with a dremel tool? For example cut holes in the blade holder? I'm still very new to saber buidling and I wan't to be well prepared for when I design and build my own saber
I think that’s the LED driver board I have in my old saber.... so I guess it technically has sound? Or do I still need a sound board? - either way, I need to order a battery, battery box/speaker. And probably a recharge port-Some wire and some connectors.
Hey Rob, thank you for these videos! They are extremely helpful. I was wondering if there's any chance you will be doing a video like this for the Graflex?
I'm not Rob, although I am a customer at TCSS. I can say that I bought disc 1 (with holes) for the same reason and it seems to be doing the job quite nicely. The diameter and holes are the same, the only real difference seems to be disc 1 is not quite as thick as disc 5.
for the screws, the easy way is to simply put the chassis together without the electronics, cut the rods to the correct size needed to thread the nut, sand the ends then put the whole thing together..
I really liked this! i see everyone doing builds with different sound boards which version do you favor ? i may want to take on the challenge of doing one of these but may include a crystal chamber.
So you use ohms law for the LED regardless of sound or not? Adding a soundboard doesnt mean i have to change my resistor is basically what I am asking.
How long is the chassis itself. Cause it fits in a 7" double female with a switch hole, which would leave about 4,5-5 inches of room, or close to that. Wanna build this but I want to have the 4-40 rod precut and sanded.
Where would you put the wires for the LED switch on this build? In another video Rob said to draw their power from wherever the main LED does but that would mean squeezing 3 wires into 1 port on this NB. (I'll be using an NBv4)
Ah okay. Thank you. I bought the MHS speaker and dual AA battery holder combo, If i use the 3.7v trustfire AA batteries would that work okay? Thanks Again
+Rob Petkau Actually ignore my other reply. I'll be using the MHS speaker combo with 1 single cell 18650 and a dummy AA in the other side so it's essentially the same I believe.
Out of curiosity, are there any noticeable advantages or disadvantages of having a recharge port vs having manually charged batteries such as battery life, or are they about the same?
Dear Rob, I would really like to build a basic saber, with the same body style as this one, the nano biscotte sound board, with the chasis and Lithium ion battery and charging port. But I want to install a momentary anti vandal green ringed switch, as well as a green blade. I understand the basic wiring for both of the basic saber videos, but how would i wire my saber build? (The anti vandal switch, so it doesnt fry the L.E.D.) can you please make a basic instalation of the anti vandal switch with the lithium ion settup?
Also im not super framiliar with alot of electronic terms yet, so you might have to explain in detail what the part(s) do. Which I appreciate in your videos that you dont just assume we know everything, And you explain!
+Phantomblade 234 All you need to do is wire it in the same as any other switch. Ignore the LED in the switch at first... test. Then find the correct resistor for your switch LED (use an online resistor calculator)... and wire it in with the blade LED.
but isn't that an easy hole to drill though? like if I had an activation box with a hole in the box for a recharge port couldn't I just mark the hole, use a clamp of some sort, and then drill... or would it be safer through TCSS employees? :D Sorry all of you hard working jawas.
Hey Rob, I'm in Canada and I've been waiting for TCSS to get the 18650 you show here back in stock. I can get them here, just without the wires attached, and without the button too for the positive. any suggestions or tutorials you know about that could help us?
Would this work in a saber forge fury? I really don't want an external recharge port and this seems perfect! If someone could say the best part measurements or put links or say if this will even work please let me know!
Is a single retention screw at the top of the saber really safe for combat? I would think that two screws in a cross shape would be better, and further down, that way preventing blade wiggle. Also you never go over the blade installation. Can you use an ultrasaber blade with this set up, or only Custom Saber shop Parts? Also do those Chassis Disks come in different sizes? I need mine to thin in the middle in order to accomodate a thin pipe with leather over it for the grip, which goes above the chassis and under the main sink tube.
Why isn’t there a buck puck (constant current driver) in any of the builds? One would think such a thing would be a necessity given what they do power wise.
Can anyone tell me why my main led turns on automatically as soon as I put my battery in? Almost immediately after battery is installed boot up starts?? After cycling thru and powering down the main LED stays lit. Any help is great
Is there a specific speaker wire you are using or will any copper wire work? Great videos! I keep slowly upgrading my saber as my confidence working with this stuff increases and this video in particular has made me feel like i can do something like this that i never would have even tried before! Now to order the parts...
I think this video is awesome and really helpful! I really want to get to putting one of these together, but noticed TCSS is out of stock on quite a few items... Do they restock often or will I be waiting a while?
Hey Rob, since I can't order the battery to be ship to me in Thailand, can I make a DIY battery with Panasonic 18650 ACEBEAM 3400 mAh 3.7v? Is it the same one sold in your shop? Or can you give me the dimension of the battery used in this video so I can look for a replacement of the same size. Thanks!
+Siriwat Maneesint You should be able to find a PROTECTED 3.7 volt 18650 size battery that will work with this setup. If you want to build one with a protection circut - that is possible too, but do your homework and be safe. I will not teach that here as it's dangerous if you get it wrong.
Hey Rob, I have a small question: If I were to do a saber build with a Tri Cree LED and a Crystal Focus soundcard, what type of BuckPuck would I want to go with? Thank you!
I'm sorry, I meant "5in double female" and to be more specific, my design incorporates a ribbed-v (which I hope to keep empty aside from the switch) and have all my electronics in the 5in female. Is this possible?
What style Chassis Disc are you using? I don't see it in the Custom Saber shop. I tried to use the style 4 with the speaker mount v4 but the rods bent on me.
Nice build tutorials Rob. Getting the bug again for the new year. I noticed you had difficulty with putting on the nut after cutting your metal rod to size. Have you considered putting the nut on loosely before nipping? This would save you having to dremel near the battery altogether.
Hey Rob, Found a place that sells them here. I also got one from someone, but it says it has an input/output of 5V instead of 3.7. Is it safe to use this with the NBv3?
Could you do a crystal chamber build?
AWESOME DUDE!!! My son and I Nathan who just turned 10 are building a couple of sabers as a father son bonding thing. He is super excited!!! Thanks for all the info and technical expertise!! Take care and stay healthy and safe!! James
I love your videos! I was very much intimidated with the idea of doing the electronics myself until I watched several of your videos and I now feel very confident I will be able to do it just fine!
You know Rob, watching tutorials to "hold me over" while i wait for my order to ship only makes it worse. i love it. But i think my favorite parts are the little tricks, like heat shrink over the end of the 4-40. Ive been in the hobby seriously for maybe a year now, and im still fascinated by the simplest things!! mtfbwy!!
I have had a idea for a saber and I'm going to use all custom saber shop parts I have been learning how to etch so I will lay so beautiful pattern on the Sabres when I get chance.
The way I would twist wires is to hold the thing they are attached to in one hand, and then hold the other end in a drill and turn the drill on until it is nicely twisted
+The Nerd That's how I do it as well. It makes the twisted pair look nicer and are less likely to untwist. I make custom wiring harnesses for a living.
Awesome video! Was wondering if you can make a vid on how to make the effect of the blade retract. I notice other lightsabers have the effect of the light coming out from the hilt to the tip then retracting back just like the real thing. Thanks!
+jague2u Hi,
What you are describing is a combination of a sting of LEDs in the blade, and a microchip controlling them. Those sabers tend to be fragile. The sabers we build and use have a single high power LED and a removeable blade with no LEDs in it.
Rob Petkau
Oh I see. I wanted to build something like the Makoto Lightsaber and was wondering how they made an actual dueling saber with that effect that you can actually use.. I'd rather have fun making it than spend 400 dollars to have one made. lol!
You can put the nuts on before you cut the threaded rod, which means no problems getting them started. Then, after cleaning up the cut ends, run the nut back up to the cut and gently turn back and forth (like you would with a tap) using the nut to re-cut the end of the thread. Then the nuts will go back on perfectly if you ever need to disassemble.
This guy is like the Bob Ross of lightsaber construction! 👍👍
Can you change the main hilt and the blade holder while having the same mechanics and wiring? I am just a teen but when I earn enough money, I want to create my own lightsaber. This one was helpful but can you change the main hilt and the blade holder while having the same mechanics.i might also need to be able to understand how the construction works.
Great videos! Is there any way to wire a toggle or on/off switch for the speaker, allowing you to mute the speakers output without cutting power to the LED unit?
You could do that. But the Newer Plecter cards have a mute feature.
www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=51756.0
Hey Rob, if you drilled a hole in the hilt to charge the battery without taking it out, how would you secure it so the recharge port and the hole always stay aligned?
Can you please show us how to build a graflex saber with sound.
Can you a saber chassis with a recharge port, a buck puck (constant current driver) of 1000mA for 3.7v Li-Ion single LED driver, and a power level indicator (one seen in your Advanced Ascend Upgrade video).
A tip regarding cutting threaded rod or screws: Put a nut onto the thread before you cut it, so that after deburring the cut, the nut will clean up the thread when you take it off.
Hi, great step by step. Easy to follow along with and it makes sense. My question is: the battery you use is a 3.7volt yes? Well, if the led is 3.4 forward volts, and the sound card draws 3.4 to 5.5 volts(stated in desc.), how would your battery be strong enough to power both? Is the voltage shared and the milliamps are what's important? This is all new to me and i'm trying to get a grip on the specifics,(i've been learning about ohms law, and kirchoff's law) and you seem to know electronics very well. Thanks for any help you can give.
They share voltage in the sense that they both draw what they need. If your battery is super small the amp load will drop the voltage too much. If your battery has a good mA rating it's fine. I hope that helps.
Rob Petkau thanks! That's what I needed to know. I appreciate you getting back to me. Keep up the good work!
If I'm wiring a tri cree led I would have 3 positive and 3 negative wires right? How would I wire it up to the NB then? Can I join the 3 positive wires into 1 and wire the rest the same way you did it?
+DEATH04066 Essentially yes.
I NEED A TUTORIAL ON HOW TO MAKE MY DREAM BUILD
MY SABER WILL CONSIST OF:
red tri-cree LEDs
Activation style 10
Red anti vandal momentary switch
Petit Crouton v3.5
whichever speaker you reccomend
and any design choices you wish to add! THANK YOU MADCOW YOU ARE AWESOME!
can you make a video showing how to use a lighted switch with a Nano Biscotte Sound card, because those switches have four legs
Hi why does the Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery cannot be shipped internationally ?
This is a great tutorial !
+François Rousseaux Airline restrictions
Ok thx :)
Excellent video as always, Rob. That chassis system seems really cool. I would love to see you do a video like this and wire up a more complicated card i.e. the CF 7.5.
Me too! :)
How do i install a crystal chamber on a lightsaber? And can you modify your parts with a dremel tool? For example cut holes in the blade holder? I'm still very new to saber buidling and I wan't to be well prepared for when I design and build my own saber
+Da_Swifta There is a video on this channel for crystal chambers. It would be very difficult to cut a clean hole in a BH with a dremmel
Rob Petkau OK, thanks for the help.
I think that’s the LED driver board I have in my old saber.... so I guess it technically has sound? Or do I still need a sound board? - either way, I need to order a battery, battery box/speaker. And probably a recharge port-Some wire and some connectors.
What do you think of adding quick connectors to the emitter and the the activation switch to quickly change out the colors and hilts?
+Ty Willis I would rather invest in a sound card that does colour shifting like the PC Prizm
Hey Rob, thank you for these videos! They are extremely helpful. I was wondering if there's any chance you will be doing a video like this for the Graflex?
+Richard King Possibly, I'll add it to the list
what would you suggest for having a chassis like this but instead of using a recharge port, you have swappable batteries?
+SuperMonkey94 I would not use swappable batteries with a chassis like this. I would go for a v6 holder for that
+Rob Petkau How do you add clash sounds
you can run down you nuts and then cut the threaded dowels. that way you don't have to worry about if it'll thread on after you cut it
James Leach my thoughts exactly
If you wanted to use this in an old Ultrasaber body, would you run into much trouble?
How do I do a basic build but with a neopixel setup? Do I need a different kind of board?
Is it possible that it can also fit into a DIY lightsaber made out of PVC pipes??
+Aaron Solano Possible - sure.
Hey rob I was wondering if you could use a chassis disk other than 5 for the chassis because 5 is out of stock
I'm not Rob, although I am a customer at TCSS.
I can say that I bought disc 1 (with holes) for the same reason and it seems to be doing the job quite nicely.
The diameter and holes are the same, the only real difference seems to be disc 1 is not quite as thick as disc 5.
Sir where can I get a heavy grade blade for dueling
The way you do electronic things is just like i learned in high school
for the screws, the easy way is to simply put the chassis together without the electronics, cut the rods to the correct size needed to thread the nut, sand the ends then put the whole thing together..
I really liked this! i see everyone doing builds with different sound boards which version do you favor ? i may want to take on the challenge of doing one of these but may include a crystal chamber.
I like the Crystal Focus best. But it may be better to start with a NB
The Drop down menu for choosing the color of the spacers don't work. It just shows a small blue bar where it's supposed to be.
+ThePrizeKeeper they are all out of stock at the moment. Hopefully be coming back soon
OK, that makes sense. Thanks for the clarity :D
So you use ohms law for the LED regardless of sound or not? Adding a soundboard doesnt mean i have to change my resistor is basically what I am asking.
How long is the chassis itself. Cause it fits in a 7" double female with a switch hole, which would leave about 4,5-5 inches of room, or close to that. Wanna build this but I want to have the 4-40 rod precut and sanded.
+Rene Pickardt I don't have the exact measurement... sorry
Many, if not all, of the MHS V1 and V1 Blade holders are out of stock. when does the store get updated inventory?
+Wil Stallmann Stock is being added every week. Thanks for your patience.
+Rob Petkau thanks for the feedback and hard work. I wouldn't even be attempting to make my own saber if it weren't for these videos!
When joining the top and bottom wires in your chassis why not put white to white? Would make it a lot easier for future problem-solving.....
Couldn't you put the nut on first, saving the process of sanding?
Where would you put the wires for the LED switch on this build? In another video Rob said to draw their power from wherever the main LED does but that would mean squeezing 3 wires into 1 port on this NB. (I'll be using an NBv4)
I look forward to doing this
What differences would there need to be if you opt to use the 7.4v 1400mA battery?
+Gary Schram Will not work with the Nano Biscotte sound card. You would have to upgrade to a Petite Crouton.
Ah okay. Thank you. I bought the MHS speaker and dual AA battery holder combo, If i use the 3.7v trustfire AA batteries would that work okay?
Thanks Again
+Rob Petkau Actually ignore my other reply. I'll be using the MHS speaker combo with 1 single cell 18650 and a dummy AA in the other side so it's essentially the same I believe.
Out of curiosity, are there any noticeable advantages or disadvantages of having a recharge port vs having manually charged batteries such as battery life, or are they about the same?
Each has advantages. That is a good question for the forums
Rob Petkau ok, cool! Thank you!
I've to ask here too: what's the diameter on those disks? Can you provide measurement in mm?
Very informative really.
Dear Rob,
I would really like to build a basic saber, with the same body style as this one, the nano biscotte sound board, with the chasis and Lithium ion battery and charging port. But I want to install a momentary anti vandal green ringed switch, as well as a green blade. I understand the basic wiring for both of the basic saber videos, but how would i wire my saber build? (The anti vandal switch, so it doesnt fry the L.E.D.) can you please make a basic instalation of the anti vandal switch with the lithium ion settup?
Also im not super framiliar with alot of electronic terms yet, so you might have to explain in detail what the part(s) do. Which I appreciate in your videos that you dont just assume we know everything, And you explain!
+Phantomblade 234 All you need to do is wire it in the same as any other switch. Ignore the LED in the switch at first... test. Then find the correct resistor for your switch LED (use an online resistor calculator)... and wire it in with the blade LED.
could you drill a hole so that you can recharge it without taking the whole chassis out?
+Saxyman Yes
+Rob Petkau Isn't that also one of the services on the website?
+TheMorphingDruid yes - but you must specify where exactly. You would't have that information until after the saber and chassis are built
but isn't that an easy hole to drill though? like if I had an activation box with a hole in the box for a recharge port couldn't I just mark the hole, use a clamp of some sort, and then drill... or would it be safer through TCSS employees? :D Sorry all of you hard working jawas.
+TheMorphingDruid I always recommend people try on their own and be prepared to make mistakes and learn
How do you create the sound how do you put it on the chip thats what i need to know
+Toshiru Hitsugya The sound cards comes with sounds already loaded. You can also purchase more at saberfont.com
Hey Rob, I'm in Canada and I've been waiting for TCSS to get the 18650 you show here back in stock. I can get them here, just without the wires attached, and without the button too for the positive. any suggestions or tutorials you know about that could help us?
TCSS should have them back in stock soon.
+Rob Petkau Thank you! I guess we'll just wait it out then.
How long would you say that internal chassis setup in this video is? from the tip of the battery to the bottom of the speaker.
+Seth Baldwin each cube on the matt is 1/2 inch
What keeps the battery from sliding around?
Would this work in a saber forge fury? I really don't want an external recharge port and this seems perfect! If someone could say the best part measurements or put links or say if this will even work please let me know!
+Jachro These parts are not made with other manufacturers in mind.
Is a single retention screw at the top of the saber really safe for combat? I would think that two screws in a cross shape would be better, and further down, that way preventing blade wiggle. Also you never go over the blade installation. Can you use an ultrasaber blade with this set up, or only Custom Saber shop Parts? Also do those Chassis Disks come in different sizes? I need mine to thin in the middle in order to accomodate a thin pipe with leather over it for the grip, which goes above the chassis and under the main sink tube.
what gauge wire should i use for the LED and switch?
+Rush 2112 26 AWG stranded should work. If you can find it 28 AWG stranded is ideal.
Why isn’t there a buck puck (constant current driver) in any of the builds? One would think such a thing would be a necessity given what they do power wise.
Can i use this soundcard for a kylo ren black series conversion? or is that a another
thanks for the video. so many things on your item list are out of stock :(
So this saber doesnt has "flash on clash" but will it still acknowledge if you hit it with something? Like sound and flashing the light a bit?
Makes the sound, no flash.
Hi, is it possible to make a curved chassis for a curved lightsaber hilt?
the nanno biscotti have led ports to the cristal?
Would this fit in a 7/8" RP Balance V4?
Looking to this with a proffie board, smooth swing and neo-plecter pixel.
Are you able to recharge it while having it on? As a sort of lamp?
+Don Schinkel Nope
Are there any chassis disks from TCSS that allow for a CF board?
+JesterHammer The ones made for PC3 will work.
Why does it have to be momentary switch and not latching for the NB?
+Chandler Morris The NB is designed for only momentary. The more advanced cards have the option of both momentary and latching.
+Rob Petkau So if you start moving into Crystal Focus sound cards you're more free to choose different components and options? Sky's the limit?
+Chandler Morris Sort of. There's certainly much more you can customize with the CF settings.
How would you add a tri-cree with Flash on clash to this?
I'm confused. You can't wire LED Push Buttons to the Nano B?
Would this system fit inside a 1" PVC pipe?
+Joel De Freitas It would not fit. The inside diameter of these MHS parts is 1.25"
Can anyone tell me why my main led turns on automatically as soon as I put my battery in? Almost immediately after battery is installed boot up starts?? After cycling thru and powering down the main LED stays lit. Any help is great
Is there a specific speaker wire you are using or will any copper wire work?
Great videos! I keep slowly upgrading my saber as my confidence working with this stuff increases and this video in particular has made me feel like i can do something like this that i never would have even tried before! Now to order the parts...
+J2Metal 26 or 28 guage stranded wire. It does not need to be copper.
I would like to se a graflex build.
What is the correct spelling for the nano 2.0 board? I can't find any search results for it
Scratch that, I've just seen it below the video :)
Man I missed these videos.. any chance of a estimated release date for another vid?
Hello Rob I was wondering what you use for your blades? Any info would be greatly appreciated thank you for these videos very informative!!!!
Hi,
I use blade parts from TCSS, I add my own blade film
I think this video is awesome and really helpful! I really want to get to putting one of these together, but noticed TCSS is out of stock on quite a few items... Do they restock often or will I be waiting a while?
+MidFrequency Items are being restocked every week
More than half the parts i need are out of stock! can u give me a date that they'll be back in stock?
+Attack Titan Stock is being added every week. Thanks for your patience.
Hey Rob, will you be doing any tutorials/builds on a graflex saber anytime soon?
+TheProdigalLegion723 Good idea!
Rob Petkau Well, the new Graflex kits are a thing now, so why not! :)
How would you add an aux switch?
+Zeaiclies De'Magician The NB isn't designed for an aux switch, but the PC and CF are. You wire it in just like the activation switch/button
Ahh thanks
Great video. :)
How many W this LED ? 3 or 5?
Enough of this saber searching. I'll make my own.
Do a crystal chamber build, that would be awesome
Think you'd be able to dremel out those chassis disks to accept a prizm?
There are Prizm disks. But yes you can modify the fit with a dremmel
Hey Rob, since I can't order the battery to be ship to me in Thailand, can I make a DIY battery with Panasonic 18650 ACEBEAM 3400 mAh 3.7v? Is it the same one sold in your shop? Or can you give me the dimension of the battery used in this video so I can look for a replacement of the same size. Thanks!
+Siriwat Maneesint You should be able to find a PROTECTED 3.7 volt 18650 size battery that will work with this setup. If you want to build one with a protection circut - that is possible too, but do your homework and be safe. I will not teach that here as it's dangerous if you get it wrong.
+Rob Petkau Thanks Rob, I'll try not to blow anything up. I've found a good how-to and I'll follow the instructions really carefully.
great video, as usual. Thanks Rob.
how much does it all cost up to make this
+marec morrison Not sure. Under $250 I expect
Hey Rob, I have a small question: If I were to do a saber build with a Tri Cree LED and a Crystal Focus soundcard, what type of BuckPuck would I want to go with? Thank you!
The CF has a voltage regulator, so no buckpuck is needed.
Rob Petkau ok, cool! Thank you for the reply!
Will this set up fit in the korbanth mpp 2.0? Thanks, I love your videos!
I really don't know. I would ask on the forums
Will this chassis fit in a 5in double male?
+Maximino Echevarria depends on the inside diameter. You can get other chassis disks made for smaller ID parts.
I'm sorry, I meant "5in double female" and to be more specific, my design incorporates a ribbed-v (which I hope to keep empty aside from the switch) and have all my electronics in the 5in female. Is this possible?
+Maximino Echevarria I don't believe this chassis would fit in a 5" DF, a 6" DF would be close.
man all the blade holders are still out of stock :/ i need a MHSV1 style 1.. any idea when the machined parts with be back in stock?
+Attack Titan Stock is being added every week. Thanks for your patience.
+Rob Petkau man its been three weeks. could u give a a estimate time when your machined parts will be in stock? please no bot answers.
is there a certain way to wire the speaker, or can the 2 wires be flip-flopped and not cause a problem
Since their is only one speaker - wire polarity for the speaker doesn't matter.
Rob Petkau thank you, just wanted to confirm
Any idea when you will get the nano biscotte back in stock?
Ill second that, when will the biscotte be in?
+soundwave809 soon
What style Chassis Disc are you using? I don't see it in the Custom Saber shop. I tried to use the style 4 with the speaker mount v4 but the rods bent on me.
+rankosaotome Most likely it's Chasis Disc style 5. With the newer parts it's disc 5 that will lock between a male and female section MHS part.
+rankosaotome Apologies - yes it's this one:www.thecustomsabershop.com/Chassis-Disc-style-5-P792.aspx
Could you use this for a dueling saber?
Absolutely
is this possible to do with the jst connectors?
+MidgetMonkeyG Not entirely
ok i was wondering how you would fit the LED in a pvc hilt without the chassis?
+MidgetMonkeyG www.thecustomsabershop.com/Heatsink-module-for-1-ID-tubes-P1027.aspx
Hey Rob
Any chance for a Crystal Focus v7.5 wiring instructional video?
+DaTimShow Perhaps - but much of it will be the same as with the PC
how much would this cost in all?
+ilikePANKAKEZ Around $200 IIRC
Can you use copper wire?
Yes
Nice build tutorials Rob. Getting the bug again for the new year.
I noticed you had difficulty with putting on the nut after cutting your metal rod to size. Have you considered putting the nut on loosely before nipping? This would save you having to dremel near the battery altogether.
+navigatorhat Great suggestion
Rob Petkau and should you ever have to disassemble it, backing the nut off should straighten out any funky threads
Why can't you put the nano biscotte upside down so the SD card is on top and easier to pry out?
Hey Rob, Found a place that sells them here. I also got one from someone, but it says it has an input/output of 5V instead of 3.7. Is it safe to use this with the NBv3?
I don;t know what you have there, but the proper battery should say 3.7v. Protected.
I would not attempt to use anything else.
+Rob Petkau Thank you Rob! I will use the one I bought then.