Rob, these videos are great. I wish these were around when i first began making sabers. These would have saved me a lot of time and prevented some horrible mistakes early on.
This is awesome!! I'm going to be attempting my first built in the coming months and will be using all of these exact components. Thank you so much for making it easier!!
Hi Rob.. I know you have heard this a thousand times but Thank you sooo much for videos like this!! I have constructed 2 sabers that I will soon be gifting to my 2 kiddos. I have followed this video closely to construct them: NBV2, Tri Cree GGW LED, PEX, 18650. I have not placed a resistor on the white dye on my TriCree for FOC so I soldered my positive red wire going to my NB sound board directly to the pad that my FOC led positive is using on the PEX as you did in the video. One saber this is working great. The other I fear that I have BLOWN the White LED. Should I have used a resistor for my white FOC led on the tri cree? I have taken the wires off the positive and negative on the white LED pads to see if I can power the LED with a AA power pack and it does not light up where doing the same for the Greens do light up.
+leatherneck I'd be surprised if you blew a cree white with the max 4.1 volts that comes off the battery. But if the LED doesn't work it doesn't work. A blob of solder? It's possible it's blown
+Rob Petkau Thanks for the response.. I am new to soldering.. So when you say "blob of solder", can this cause a short of some kind? One pad did have a bit too much solder on it but it did not look like it was bleeding onto another pad or anything. I have tri cree on the way and Tim has offered to repair the old so I cam chalking this up to gained experience.
+leatherneck Experience is valuable for sure. Yes - a blob of solder can often cause a short. You can buy an inexpensive multitester tool and use it to test for shorts.
always amazing rob had a question about how many times can you solder wires to the boards before the leads really start to go I have a prizm and would like to rewire the mess of wires in there im just a little paranoid about re-soldering it
please this scheme is on manual of biscotte or a drawing of this scheme? and another question? how i can choose diferent color for flash on clash i must buy different led? a lot of thanks for your work and your Incredible videos
Thanks for all the demos Rob you the man! Question: the solder pads on the soundboards have a hole that run thru the board, can you run the stripped tip of the wires thru the holes then clip them flush then dab the pad with a small amount of solder? or is it better to do as you do and solder the wires flat on top of the pads?
If I created a saber with these components and housed them in an internal chassi made with the acrylic disks how durable would the saber be? Would the elctronics break easily if it was used for light dueling?
Could you do a video showing how to wire up the power extender with the Nano V4 so that the blade colors can change for each soundfont? I'd love to see it done. Ives wired four so far but never like that. I've read the manual but I'm still unsure.
Great video! One question: Say if I was wiring a BBB Tri Cree, and didn't want flash on clash. Would the process be the same, except I would have three positive and three negative wires?
From the LED module, can I combine the yellow and red wire together onto the PeX (with the red properly resistored) instead of having two separate (+) wires coming from both the PeX and LED ground? I'm trying to minimize the amount of wires while using a 3-pin connector for quick connections.
hi buddy I just wanted to say I love your demonstrations to working on a lightsaber I just saw your flash on clash instructions on how to install it and I think it was great and I just wish there were others that did what you did but I guess that's what makes you stand out and above the rest and that in this Marines book is a good thing sometimes you have to be different to be better.. and I would truly like to talk with you about putting my lightsaber together I'm new in this game but I love Star Wars what can I tell ya.. and I'm not the only of marine that does haha..
I think I know this answer, but I want to make sure. can I mix and match any of these parts on this store to make a unique lightsaber? and do you have Purple led?
Hello. Tell me please, what LED will be brighter: Cree XP-E2 RED with 8,7deg lens or Tri-Cree (Red, Red and white on Flash) with standart lens? Any differences? Thanks.
So the extender allows the Nano Biscotte to flash (which it can't do without the extender?) Also, the NB should not need anything else for movement if I understand it right?
Jordan Pascale A single LED will flicker with the Plecter boards, but Flash on Clash requires a separate LED to flash. A tri-cree or tri-rebel is the best for this.
Would I need to wire anything differently if I used a Green/Green/White Cree XP-E2 CopperNova instead of the Blue LED? The Green Specs are: Green Cree Part# XPEBGR-L1-0000-00G01 130 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.7v The Blue Specs are: Blue Cree Part# XPEBBL-L1-0000-00301 45.7 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.4v
If I were using a Prizm4 and I had channel1 to the two main blade leds (in parallel), channel2 split (in parallel) to an led in each of the crossguards, and channel3 was to a single led in each ledstar (parallel) for FoC would that work without a PeX? I've read the manual over and I'm just not sure. The main saber color would be red so the overall draw would be lower than other colors, except for the FoC, since I want an amber color I plan on resistored green leds for that.
I don;t see why that would not work if you have the right settings in override. I suggest you post this on the forums in case anyone else has tried it.
Hey Rob, So, I have my saber all wired up. I have 2 blue dice and an amber for FoC. The issue I seem to be having is that when the FoC activates through the PEx, the blue never shuts off during the clash, making a light purple when mixing with the amber. Any idea what's going on? I'm using a NB sound board as well.
+Berserk81 that's normal. Usually people want the FoC to ADD to the blade brightness instead of replace it. unfortunately you need a PC, CS or CF to turn the main colour off during FoC
Hey do you believe that this same setup would work for a cross guard saber just x3? If i did what you did but 3x and tied all 3 led's in properly.. would that be okay?
Rob Petkau custom saber shop if you get a led kit like yours its not compatible for my kit fisto lightsaber i want to convert because the conversion kit says its not compatible
Rob Petkau sir I have a different question... since there is no video specially for it... and since you suggest not just hanging the pex in the saber some where... i was wondering how do I wire it to use the wiring harness you show in your basic lightsaber with sound video. since you say it would best go in the recess at the back of the v6 battery holder.... do you have any ideas how the yellow and purple wires would be connected to the wiring harness...and also how if I can use the wiring harness... how the wires would go to the nano biscotte... I see that obviously with the standard issue the red will go to the positive...the black from the battery holder goes to the board with a switch wire attached. the white wire will be used as the negative coming from the pex and going to the spot where the black wire from the battery holder connects... and the red from the pex will go to the positive of the battery holder... I know the purple wire from your video goes to the negative of the led, which in turn becomes the white wire that goes to the negative on the nano biscotte... and a red positive gets connected to the pex directly to the yellow positive of the led, you used orange for the foc control circuit... which I figured originally that if I was going to wrap the pex inside the hilt with electrical tape then I would have connected the orange to a blue wire leaving one of the blue wires of the harness unused and the white would obviously get twisted with the green switch lead from the harness to the negative on the other side of the black negative from the battery holder... in your expert opinion... can I still use the harness for the foc circuit? or should i use a covered spade connector for the purple and orange wire so I can make them easier to connect? or would it be ok to cut them long enough to just connect them directly to the pex by themselves inside the v6 speaker holder on their own without the harness, connecting the red/orange/white wires directly to the nano biscotte? in your expert opinion how would it be best to... in a sense connect both vids?
Rob Petkau if you look at my post that I had just put to your channel page, I sort of reworked my question on the matter and think I worked the issue out in a more organized fashion.. if you notice that post I think....if I have it all worked out that it could work.. I was planning on putting a black mark on one of the blue wires making it the wire that would go to the white die negative between the harness and the pex..... and on the purple wire,that would be the white die negative between the white die itself and the female portion of the wiring harness, I plan to put that same black mark so I can keep track between the two... the two blue wires will thus act as the pex negative("purple") and pex positive("yellow") like you used in your video on the foc system. and the white wire on the harness will still not be used but heat shrinked to keep from causing a short... and the red wire from the pex will be twisted together with the open lead of the wire harness that goes to the positive on the nano biscotte, and the orange wire from the foc portion of the pex.... if I did indeed order some orange wire that is... will be the wire that is soldered directly to the foc pad on the nano biscotte...being one of the small amount of wires not tied to another.lol also figured that in the spot you show in the video with the v6 speaker/battery holder that I would, obviously when things are set up use hot glue to attach the actual pex to the spot that you indicate in the basic saber video. if it seems as if I am telling more than asking... I am actually doing both...since I probably am over thinking the issue as I am oft to do.... that I am using your input and my ideas back and forth as a way to sort of get myself prepped for the work ahead... and yes I did download the nano biscotte manual btw. Thanks so much for the time and patience you hopefully have for intermediate solders like me and novice saber builders such as myself. your videos are informative, interesting and very valuable to use as a resource.
Hey Rob, I wanted to try and construct a saber with FoC and a recharge port and all of that good stuff but it says that the battery that I want cannot ship overseas. I live in Australia and I don't know where else to get these batteries. Could you please help?
Who could i speak to if i wanted to run down some of the info i've found on your videos to confirm or deny my ideas on my first saber with sounds and led build please
I'm looking to wire a tri cree to a PC v4 with the combination of deep red, royal blue, and white. i want to wire them with the ability to alternate (with an auxiliary switch) from blue to red to purple, all with white as flash. would this be possible? if so, through what means?
Hello, i recently built this FoC system with all the parts used in the video in the exact same layout. However, when i attach the Lithium battery, i get the bootup sound and the white FoC LED turns on. When i click the switch, the White LED turns off and the two Red LED's turn on. And when i press the switch once more, the lightsaber will finally activates and the Dark Meat sound comes on. However, the White FoC white light is still flashing even without a clash (It flashes even brighter with a clash) and when i try to hit the switch to turn the system off, the only thing that happens is the white FoC light turns off (its not completely off, just extremely suppressed). I have all the correct wires going to the nano biscotte and as i said before, the layout is nearly identical to the one you built in the video. I have tested many possible solutions but nothing has seemed to work. Please Help!!!
+ArbitraryGamer Hey. It definitely sounds like a wiring issue. The best thing for you to do is post this on the TCSS forums with pics and a number of us can help you troubleshoot.
Mr. Petkau, I have been looking on the forums and there are some that say that you should put a separate resistor for each led then connect them in parallel like you show... is there any grounding to this as in your flash on clash video above you use one resistor. I am using a tri-cree.. and notice in the nano biscotte manual it shows the tri-rebel wired with only one... what would your thoughts be on the matter? and thanks for the helpful info.
+simon placek I try to use one resistor per circuit. The mains are one, and the FoC is another. When you place two LEDs in parallel they become like one LED. At least for our purposes.
i just wired my led the same way you did and it wont work ..each die works by its self but not wen i solder the 2 reds and 2 blacks to each other ..why?
richard Bennett It could be that the wrong pads are connected, it could be that there is too much solder and there is a short circuit. I can not know without inspecting it - take clear pics and post them on the forum please
Im new to saber wiring so there were a couple of things that confused me. I keep hearing that I only need a resistor for my red leds. Is that wrong? Also the positive wire from the white die was wired to the positive on the xtender instead of the positive on the board. Was there a specific reason for this?
This is exactly the video I've been waiting for. Thank you so much Rob and Tim.
Rob, these videos are great. I wish these were around when i first began making sabers. These would have saved me a lot of time and prevented some horrible mistakes early on.
These videos are great. It would be nice to have some new ones that apply to the newer boards that are available.
This is awesome!! I'm going to be attempting my first built in the coming months and will be using all of these exact components. Thank you so much for making it easier!!
This guy is very relaxing to watch
I know. Right now he's making me feel super relaxed while bubble bathing....
Thanks Rob! I always appreciate these videos!
Hi Rob.. I know you have heard this a thousand times but Thank you sooo much for videos like this!! I have constructed 2 sabers that I will soon be gifting to my 2 kiddos. I have followed this video closely to construct them: NBV2, Tri Cree GGW LED, PEX, 18650. I have not placed a resistor on the white dye on my TriCree for FOC so I soldered my positive red wire going to my NB sound board directly to the pad that my FOC led positive is using on the PEX as you did in the video. One saber this is working great. The other I fear that I have BLOWN the White LED. Should I have used a resistor for my white FOC led on the tri cree? I have taken the wires off the positive and negative on the white LED pads to see if I can power the LED with a AA power pack and it does not light up where doing the same for the Greens do light up.
+leatherneck I'd be surprised if you blew a cree white with the max 4.1 volts that comes off the battery. But if the LED doesn't work it doesn't work. A blob of solder? It's possible it's blown
+Rob Petkau Thanks for the response.. I am new to soldering.. So when you say "blob of solder", can this cause a short of some kind? One pad did have a bit too much solder on it but it did not look like it was bleeding onto another pad or anything. I have tri cree on the way and Tim has offered to repair the old so I cam chalking this up to gained experience.
+leatherneck Experience is valuable for sure. Yes - a blob of solder can often cause a short. You can buy an inexpensive multitester tool and use it to test for shorts.
How would one make a crystal chamber?
Yeah a video on a crystal chamber would be awesome
Does anyone know if you can use an 18650 3.7 battery to test the LED colors? Same way that Rob did in the video.
always amazing rob had a question about how many times can you solder wires to the boards before the leads really start to go I have a prizm and would like to rewire the mess of wires in there im just a little paranoid about re-soldering it
+Garrett Lapham You should be able to resolder multiple times with no trouble. If you get too much solder on there, use wire braid to soak it off.
hi great video, but what is the purpose of the PEx? why can you not just run the line straight through? thank you for any help
+Michael Mimnagh The pex acts like a fast switch to tell the LED when to pulse. Without it the led would be on all the time
If I was doing a saber with purple as the main blade color do I need separate resistors for the red and blue LEDs to get the right voltage for each
How would you wire a 4 pin 3v LED momentary switch from a 3.7v li-ion battery?
when will items like the power extender and the 18650's come back in stock? I also vouch for a nbv3.0 video lol
email sales@thecustomsabershop.com for that info
please this scheme is on manual of biscotte or a drawing of this scheme? and another question? how i can choose diferent color for flash on clash i must buy different led?
a lot of thanks for your work and your Incredible videos
+avolakia martin The Manual is available at Plecter Labs website.
+Rob Petkau thanks
Can I use this on a quad Cree red /blue /green /white?
Thanks for all the demos Rob you the man! Question: the solder pads on the soundboards have a hole that run thru the board, can you run the stripped tip of the wires thru the holes then clip them flush then dab the pad with a small amount of solder? or is it better to do as you do and solder the wires flat on top of the pads?
+Anthony Coffey You CAN do it that way, but it's not as secure. I only do that when I have to for space reasons
If I created a saber with these components and housed them in an internal chassi made with the acrylic disks how durable would the saber be? Would the elctronics break easily if it was used for light dueling?
Emil Leidhammar If you take your time and use the right components I expect your saber would be very durable.
Rob Petkau Thanks alot mate and thanks for taking your time to answer :)
Could you do a video showing how to wire up the power extender with the Nano V4 so that the blade colors can change for each soundfont? I'd love to see it done. Ives wired four so far but never like that. I've read the manual but I'm still unsure.
James Frame Exactly what I wanna see. I wanna see a NBv4 with an AV switch & PXe setup but without a recharge port.
Blvck Ronin I just got one wired up just like that. I'm going to draw up a nice wiring diagram. I'll put it in here as a reply when it's all done.
James Frame Do that dude, for sure. Much appreciated.
James Frame Is your AV switch illuminated? Cuz mine will be
Blvck Ronin it is
Any chance on doing a power level indicator wiring on a sound board demo?
gladius315 Great idea! Added to the list.
Great video! One question: Say if I was wiring a BBB Tri Cree, and didn't want flash on clash. Would the process be the same, except I would have three positive and three negative wires?
MystByte Videos Correct. Then you do not need a PEx
Rob Petkau Yea I'll be wiring this to a crappy SF soundboard, so no flash on clash for me :/
Thanks a ton!
Can you make some guide for the new NBv3.0? That would be awesome :)
+BaNaNa Joe Yes, I will!
From the LED module, can I combine the yellow and red wire together onto the PeX (with the red properly resistored) instead of having two separate (+) wires coming from both the PeX and LED ground?
I'm trying to minimize the amount of wires while using a 3-pin connector for quick connections.
Yes - you can combine the (+) wires. The ground is (-)
hi buddy I just wanted to say I love your demonstrations to working on a lightsaber I just saw your flash on clash instructions on how to install it and I think it was great and I just wish there were others that did what you did but I guess that's what makes you stand out and above the rest and that in this Marines book is a good thing sometimes you have to be different to be better.. and I would truly like to talk with you about putting my lightsaber together I'm new in this game but I love Star Wars what can I tell ya.. and I'm not the only of marine that does haha..
I have found this on the net and it has a harness that can be attached to it. What are your thoughts on using the harness with it?
You are a lifesaver! Thank you for doing this!
Do I need a PEx for CFX?
what are two gray wires soldered to
I think I know this answer, but I want to make sure. can I mix and match any of these parts on this store to make a unique lightsaber? and do you have Purple led?
Yes - the MHS parts will work with each other. Purple is a combination of red and blue LEDs
thank you. i'm looking forward to make my own some day.
Hello. Tell me please, what LED will be brighter: Cree XP-E2 RED with 8,7deg lens or Tri-Cree (Red, Red and white on Flash) with standart lens? Any differences? Thanks.
how long will that battery last until you need to recharge.
+Flying Wolf Man It really depends on how much you use the saber, what colours etc. But the batteries last a good long time.
Is it possible to fit the LED optics with a quick disconnect, so that I can switch with another LED setup to change the blade color?
Absolutely
do you need to use the power extender if you using RED RED White with a Nano board?
+Brandon Bromfield Yes. The FoC signal from the NB will not drive the LED properly without the PEx
Is a power extender necessary? I can wire up FoC without one.
What are its features?
So the extender allows the Nano Biscotte to flash (which it can't do without the extender?) Also, the NB should not need anything else for movement if I understand it right?
+J Schmelzer Correct on both. The new Nano Biscotte 3 does not even need the PEX (vid coming soon)
Thanks mate, super helpful. I wasn't sure if I was understanding the diagram right on the manual or if I was missing something.
Is FOC available with only a single green LED or does it have to have a tri-LED setup?
Jordan Pascale A single LED will flicker with the Plecter boards, but Flash on Clash requires a separate LED to flash. A tri-cree or tri-rebel is the best for this.
Good to know! Thanks!
Would I need to wire anything differently if I used a Green/Green/White Cree XP-E2 CopperNova instead of the Blue LED?
The Green Specs are:
Green Cree Part# XPEBGR-L1-0000-00G01
130 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.7v
The Blue Specs are:
Blue Cree Part# XPEBBL-L1-0000-00301
45.7 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.4v
do you do those chassis discs for 7/8 sabers, such as korbanth?
+Bri w (willbo) Not at present.
If I were using a Prizm4 and I had channel1 to the two main blade leds (in parallel), channel2 split (in parallel) to an led in each of the crossguards, and channel3 was to a single led in each ledstar (parallel) for FoC would that work without a PeX? I've read the manual over and I'm just not sure. The main saber color would be red so the overall draw would be lower than other colors, except for the FoC, since I want an amber color I plan on resistored green leds for that.
I don;t see why that would not work if you have the right settings in override. I suggest you post this on the forums in case anyone else has tried it.
I bought a board from you a wile ago still got it
Hey Rob,
So, I have my saber all wired up. I have 2 blue dice and an amber for FoC. The issue I seem to be having is that when the FoC activates through the PEx, the blue never shuts off during the clash, making a light purple when mixing with the amber. Any idea what's going on? I'm using a NB sound board as well.
+Berserk81 that's normal. Usually people want the FoC to ADD to the blade brightness instead of replace it. unfortunately you need a PC, CS or CF to turn the main colour off during FoC
+Rob Petkau ouch...that's unfortunate. Wish I thought that through a little more, haha. Thanks, Rob!
Hey do you believe that this same setup would work for a cross guard saber just x3? If i did what you did but 3x and tied all 3 led's in properly.. would that be okay?
+Greg McKinnon Sure. It woulddrain the battery quickly though. I would personally use a single LED on the cross pieces with no FoC
sounds good, thanks! you're one of, if not the most helpful person in the saber 'world' i have run into so far. thanks!
the top of the lense isnt compatible with conversion kits are they?
spawnkiller97 Not sure what you mean. Usually the conversion kit specifies what optic holder and heatsink are required.
Rob Petkau custom saber shop if you get a led kit like yours its not compatible for my kit fisto lightsaber i want to convert because the conversion kit says its not compatible
Rob Petkau
sir I have a different question... since there is no video specially for it... and since you suggest not just hanging the pex in the saber some where... i was wondering how do I wire it to use the wiring harness you show in your basic lightsaber with sound video. since you say it would best go in the recess at the back of the v6 battery holder.... do you have any ideas how the yellow and purple wires would be connected to the wiring harness...and also how if I can use the wiring harness... how the wires would go to the nano biscotte... I see that obviously with the standard issue the red will go to the positive...the black from the battery holder goes to the board with a switch wire attached. the white wire will be used as the negative coming from the pex and going to the spot where the black wire from the battery holder connects... and the red from the pex will go to the positive of the battery holder... I know the purple wire from your video goes to the negative of the led, which in turn becomes the white wire that goes to the negative on the nano biscotte... and a red positive gets connected to the pex directly to the yellow positive of the led, you used orange for the foc control circuit... which I figured originally that if I was going to wrap the pex inside the hilt with electrical tape then I would have connected the orange to a blue wire leaving one of the blue wires of the harness unused and the white would obviously get twisted with the green switch lead from the harness to the negative on the other side of the black negative from the battery holder... in your expert opinion... can I still use the harness for the foc circuit? or should i use a covered spade connector for the purple and orange wire so I can make them easier to connect? or would it be ok to cut them long enough to just connect them directly to the pex by themselves inside the v6 speaker holder on their own without the harness, connecting the red/orange/white wires directly to the nano biscotte? in your expert opinion how would it be best to... in a sense connect both vids?
+simon placek I would wire it wothout the harness, use longer wires. Then when it all work, Cut and build in the harness afterwards
Rob Petkau if you look at my post that I had just put to your channel page, I sort of reworked my question on the matter and think I worked the issue out in a more organized fashion.. if you notice that post I think....if I have it all worked out that it could work.. I was planning on putting a black mark on one of the blue wires making it the wire that would go to the white die negative between the harness and the pex..... and on the purple wire,that would be the white die negative between the white die itself and the female portion of the wiring harness, I plan to put that same black mark so I can keep track between the two... the two blue wires will thus act as the pex negative("purple") and pex positive("yellow") like you used in your video on the foc system. and the white wire on the harness will still not be used but heat shrinked to keep from causing a short... and the red wire from the pex will be twisted together with the open lead of the wire harness that goes to the positive on the nano biscotte, and the orange wire from the foc portion of the pex.... if I did indeed order some orange wire that is... will be the wire that is soldered directly to the foc pad on the nano biscotte...being one of the small amount of wires not tied to another.lol also figured that in the spot you show in the video with the v6 speaker/battery holder that I would, obviously when things are set up use hot glue to attach the actual pex to the spot that you indicate in the basic saber video. if it seems as if I am telling more than asking... I am actually doing both...since I probably am over thinking the issue as I am oft to do.... that I am using your input and my ideas back and forth as a way to sort of get myself prepped for the work ahead... and yes I did download the nano biscotte manual btw. Thanks so much for the time and patience you hopefully have for intermediate solders like me and novice saber builders such as myself. your videos are informative, interesting and very valuable to use as a resource.
Hey Rob, I wanted to try and construct a saber with FoC and a recharge port and all of that good stuff but it says that the battery that I want cannot ship overseas. I live in Australia and I don't know where else to get these batteries. Could you please help?
+RGU I do not know for Australia - I would call battery shops and places that sell specialty flashlights
the custom saber shop
Who could i speak to if i wanted to run down some of the info i've found on your videos to confirm or deny my ideas on my first saber with sounds and led build please
I'm looking to wire a tri cree to a PC v4 with the combination of deep red, royal blue, and white. i want to wire them with the ability to alternate (with an auxiliary switch) from blue to red to purple, all with white as flash. would this be possible? if so, through what means?
It's certainly possible.
I would use the PC prizm version, and set it up with the colour profiles as described in the manual
Awesome, thanks so much for the feedback
Hello, i recently built this FoC system with all the parts used in the video in the exact same layout. However, when i attach the Lithium battery, i get the bootup sound and the white FoC LED turns on. When i click the switch, the White LED turns off and the two Red LED's turn on. And when i press the switch once more, the lightsaber will finally activates and the Dark Meat sound comes on. However, the White FoC white light is still flashing even without a clash (It flashes even brighter with a clash) and when i try to hit the switch to turn the system off, the only thing that happens is the white FoC light turns off (its not completely off, just extremely suppressed). I have all the correct wires going to the nano biscotte and as i said before, the layout is nearly identical to the one you built in the video. I have tested many possible solutions but nothing has seemed to work. Please Help!!!
+ArbitraryGamer Hey. It definitely sounds like a wiring issue. The best thing for you to do is post this on the TCSS forums with pics and a number of us can help you troubleshoot.
Mr. Petkau, I have been looking on the forums and there are some that say that you should put a separate resistor for each led then connect them in parallel like you show... is there any grounding to this as in your flash on clash video above you use one resistor. I am using a tri-cree.. and notice in the nano biscotte manual it shows the tri-rebel wired with only one... what would your thoughts be on the matter? and thanks for the helpful info.
+simon placek I try to use one resistor per circuit. The mains are one, and the FoC is another. When you place two LEDs in parallel they become like one LED. At least for our purposes.
+Rob Petkau
Do you need power extender for foc on CF?
+Zeaiclies De'Magician Nope, it's onboard
I thought so. Thanks
Do you know if naigon's z6 LED can be used with any of the plecterlabs sound cards, perhaps with the power extender?
thank you so much rob this was really helpful :D
Don't you have to worry about melting the pads? 4:10
MystByte Videos Which pads? none of the contacts in this video are prone to melting
Rob Petkau On the LED. When I first wired one of my LEDs one of the pads looks like it melted.
MystByte Videos Too much heat for too long - possibly. Clean your tip with a brass sponge and you should see better results.
I don't have a brass sponge. I've been using a regular old cleaning sponge (that's been dampened). Will that work?
MystByte Videos Yes
Nice video
if i ship mine to you can you solder mine for me and make a video with my board and ship it back to me
Here's the resistor for use with a NB sound board and a Tri Cree LED;
www.thecustomsabershop.com/Product.aspx?ProductId=1050
But this LED is purple
i just wired my led the same way you did and it wont work ..each die works by its self but not wen i solder the 2 reds and 2 blacks to each other ..why?
richard Bennett It could be that the wrong pads are connected, it could be that there is too much solder and there is a short circuit. I can not know without inspecting it - take clear pics and post them on the forum please
well iv changed that led in to many sabers and to much soldering burnt out the pads lol so time for a new led ..thanx anyway rob :)
There's no way to make blue LED on thecustomsabershop they sell Blue LED
Gustavo Gonçalves da Silva www.thecustomsabershop.com/BlueBlueWhite-Cree-XP-E2-CopperNova-P1013.aspx
+Rob petkal Thais led is good and strong
and nano biscotte sold out everywhere nooooo!
BAD BAD BAD BAD
Im new to saber wiring so there were a couple of things that confused me. I keep hearing that I only need a resistor for my red leds. Is that wrong? Also the positive wire from the white die was wired to the positive on the xtender instead of the positive on the board. Was there a specific reason for this?
Is a power extender needed with a Prizm 4.0?
Not usually.