Rob, I really want to thank you for the time you spend on these tutorials. If it wasn't for you, I never would've attempted (let alone completed)such a complicated build like the one I just completed. It's a TCSS/Home Depot Saber with dual 18650s (in parallel), a Nano Biscotte V3, a Tri-Cree RGrB main LED, and an illuminated crystal chamber with a 5mm accent LED. I must've watched a dozen of your videos before I even bought the parts. I was initially intimidated when I looked at all the parts spread out on the bench in front of me, but I got into a groove and had my Saber finished in no time. I couldn't have done it without you, you were my only hope. May the Force be with you always.
This video was absolutely great! The basic videos that has been put out have been invaluable but some more advanced tutorials like this one would be a great addition to the TCSS page. Metal working (chassis building and modification), crystal chamber basics, sound font creating, etc. It would be nice to see and get an idea of what really goes into the building of an Elite saber. And would give a better understanding to the naysayers of the understandable reason of it's cost. Thanks for all the help.
Hey Rob, I really appreciate the time you put into making these great tutorial videos. I've learned so much from them over the past few months. Now I feel confident in making some great sabers to go with our Leather Costume pieces for conventions. I look forward to seeing some more! If I can suggest an idea; A tutorial on "Space Management" for getting all the goodies inside that tight space on the more advanced builds. MTFBWY!
Travis Ramage If it wasn't for his tutorials I don't think I ever would've started, let alone completed, my Lightsaber. I have a TCSS/Home Depot Saber with Nano Biscotte V3, a Tri-Rebel RGrB main LED and an exposed, illuminated crystal chamber using a 5mm accent LED. Thanks to Rob's tutorials, it was much easier than I thought, especially when I saw all the parts laying on the bench spread out in front of me.
Rob, thanks for doing this video. I thought I had seen this information some where before, maybe the TCSS forums or else where. Now I can do up a proper wiring diagram for when I can afford to get all my parts ordered.
Sweet work rob, that looked tricky a hell bridging without a magnifying glass. As always Lov your work and these tutorials have really helped a brother along!
Awesome video, very informative... even if the ultra tiny soldering is beyond my amateur skill set. On a slight side note, towards the end of the video when you were cycling through the blade colors, the ice blue at 20:39 was my favorite.
really nice video rob, very very usefull and well explained, i hope you continous with crystal focus 8 tutorial for the rest of electronics and lights and see the full work how to install a cristal focus on a saber, like you did with other soundboards, is very helping ( and complementary to the instructions ), amazing video and expecting for next one.
Just did this for the first time and the bridging was tough. A selection of SMD resistors and/or LEDs at TCSS would be very helpful! I'd rather give you guys my money (and sneak a few extra doodads into my cart). Thanks for the video!
Hay Rob would it be possible to ad an illuminated crystal with the nano biscotte V4? if so how would one go about doing that? and could you make a video about it?
hello love it may i ack you for a link to that mother bord not the sound card plz iv looked and i can not fined the 1 from your vidow plz help sorry for my bad spelling im dislexick spell like shit :) is this it ? Crystal Focus Sound Module V9
Is there a way to have a saber with multiple colors? Like how you can press a button to change the font but instead it changes a color. I know there's something called an RGB or something like that...
Hey Rob, I have some SMD LED's wired directly onto my PCv4, is it possible to change the order and way they flash? At the moment they just blink in order when ignited and a single one blinks when the saber is off. Thanks!
That's exactly right. Through the hole means the wire is sticking straight up at the most fragile point. It's necessary sometimes, but across the hole is better in most cases
so a noob question. do the rgb led's create white also or do you need an additional white led? like for instance of you wanted foc to be white would just the rgb led do white.
I think I got it but I could be or google could be wrong? hahahahah but an equal intensity of RGB results in White. so when your adjusting the numbers on the sd card all you would do for instance would put the same # for all three led's (like 100,100,100)?
bobby d in my experience, it's equal parts blue and green and a lower setting for red. sp for RGB mine is set at 90, 700, 700. That gives a nice ice white.
Hey Rob, I've been tinkering with the CFv8 for some time now and have run into a snag. I've been emailing back and forth with Erv, and Michael to see if there's anything they know to offer to help. I have wired up my CFv8 with a RGrB on a CEx. That's it. I am keeping it simple for now to test it since this problem keeps arising. When I ignite the saber, the board cuts the power about a second after the LED lights up. If I set the override.txt color profiles up to have 50,50,50,0 -- I get a pattern of the LED dice lighting individually like accent LED's in a sequence. It has done this with the override profiles taken out, using the color profile in the config.txt of each font bank. I have tested two different CFv8's and the flashing-different-colors-LED issue is only on this one, while both of them show the problem of shutting off shortly after ignition. I have tested this with three different batteries, getting the same result. I have also tested two different recharge ports and still had the same result. I've read the manual several times to see if I have missed anything but nothing has looked out of the ordinary. If there's anything you might think be the issue, by all means--I would really appreciate some assistance. I'm going to send one of the CFv8's to Michael for repairs so he can look at it. Though with this new CFv8 that I've wired up, this problem shouldn't be happening. I'd really appreciate some help Rob! Super helpful video too!
Off the top of my head - your switch setup might be wrong. If it's set for a latching switch and yours is momentary it would shut off like that. Can't explain the main LEDs lighting in sequence like that. Never seen that.
Unless you pasted a switch parameter to the override file, or some other slip like that - I'd guess that it must be a short somewhere. Did you use any steel wool anywhere near you work surface? That stuff is impossible to see and gets everywhere.
No steel wool, though I do use brass wool or brass sponge to clean the tip of my iron. Not as small as steel wool though. And I don't know about the switch parameter being anywhere it shouldn't because I've tried this with two different SD cards; one with the fonts I've purchased, and the other with the default files directly from TCSS. I'll spray the boards with some canned air and do a full re-wiring to make sure there's no shorts.
I looked for, but couldn't find, a video of the NB V3 being used to light up a crystal chamber. I've heard of it being done, and I've heard there are several ways one can do it, ie where the crystal flickers like the blade, or where it's lit all the time, or even where it's lit until deep sleep happens. Any way you can do a video on something like that?
Read it over and over and over. It mentions how to do it, you will still have to develop your own diagram. Head over to the custom saber shop for checks and even search for diagrams others have used.
Josh Leedle I only read the parts that were pertinent at the time I built my Saber, which didn't include a crystal at the time. I guess I should've read further, cause I did find the info I needed after Rob said it was there. Lol.
The wiring is not the same on the CF version 10 board (cfx), as the grounding path is different. If you look at the manual on page 26, the eight topside circuit paths are mirrored on the bottom side of the board - topside of board is positive and bottom side of board is negative. So that means you have to bridge both sides I guess? Unless you just ground to some other point on the board. The question I have is if there is some setting in the config file that has to be changed to enable the accent led pads?
6:19 yes yes then you not build rgb. then you use red led and red saber led.real fans build one color one sound font. those who build multiple colors and sound fonts not fans. they just build custom saber. and they cant choose what is best color. they want all features.like now new iphone this year with this SAME price. its so silly use butoon for select color when that button combo could be used other way like blaster sound or something else. color can be change from config.its like building saber and changing crystal. it not happen click on button. we not build show ppiece that will be good for everyone becouse all colors. every one have to like it LOOOOL
Rob, I really want to thank you for the time you spend on these tutorials. If it wasn't for you, I never would've attempted (let alone completed)such a complicated build like the one I just completed. It's a TCSS/Home Depot Saber with dual 18650s (in parallel), a Nano Biscotte V3, a Tri-Cree RGrB main LED, and an illuminated crystal chamber with a 5mm accent LED. I must've watched a dozen of your videos before I even bought the parts. I was initially intimidated when I looked at all the parts spread out on the bench in front of me, but I got into a groove and had my Saber finished in no time. I couldn't have done it without you, you were my only hope. May the Force be with you always.
This video was absolutely great! The basic videos that has been put out have been invaluable but some more advanced tutorials like this one would be a great addition to the TCSS page. Metal working (chassis building and modification), crystal chamber basics, sound font creating, etc. It would be nice to see and get an idea of what really goes into the building of an Elite saber. And would give a better understanding to the naysayers of the understandable reason of it's cost. Thanks for all the help.
Hey Rob, I really appreciate the time you put into making these great
tutorial videos. I've learned so much from them over the past few
months. Now I feel confident in making some great sabers to go with
our Leather Costume pieces for conventions. I look forward to seeing
some more! If I can suggest an idea; A tutorial on "Space Management"
for getting all the goodies inside that tight space on the more advanced
builds. MTFBWY!
Travis Ramage If it wasn't for his tutorials I don't think I ever would've started, let alone completed, my Lightsaber. I have a TCSS/Home Depot Saber with Nano Biscotte V3, a Tri-Rebel RGrB main LED and an exposed, illuminated crystal chamber using a 5mm accent LED. Thanks to Rob's tutorials, it was much easier than I thought, especially when I saw all the parts laying on the bench spread out in front of me.
Thanks guys. I will put your suggestion on the list
I am planning my first build/install with a crystal chamber CF v8 with cex and this video helped out alot
Rob, thanks for doing this video. I thought I had seen this information some where before, maybe the TCSS forums or else where. Now I can do up a proper wiring diagram for when I can afford to get all my parts ordered.
Rob's a bad ass! I can barely see the pad with a magnifying glass, he's doing it with out and with a camera in the way. Were you trained as a surgeon?
Sweet work rob, that looked tricky a hell bridging without a magnifying glass. As always Lov your work and these tutorials have really helped a brother along!
Awesome video, very informative... even if the ultra tiny soldering is beyond my amateur skill set.
On a slight side note, towards the end of the video when you were cycling through the blade colors, the ice blue at 20:39 was my favorite.
really nice video rob, very very usefull and well explained, i hope you continous with crystal focus 8 tutorial for the rest of electronics and lights and see the full work how to install a cristal focus on a saber, like you did with other soundboards, is very helping ( and complementary to the instructions ), amazing video and expecting for next one.
The Crystal Focus Version 8 is out?!? Nice! I'll have to look into upgrading.
Been out for a while. lol
Just did this for the first time and the bridging was tough. A selection of SMD resistors and/or LEDs at TCSS would be very helpful! I'd rather give you guys my money (and sneak a few extra doodads into my cart). Thanks for the video!
The RGB LED will be in store soon
Great video Rob! Super helpful
I just watched your video and you talk about soldering and all that stuff I know how to build an amateur radio from scratch is that anything similar
Hey! He said it again! Cool!
Awesome as always Rob
Rob, great video for those who are ready to foray into the more advanced wiring. Quick question: Is your setup for a 2-cell application?
Yes. I always wire the CF fir for a 7.4v pack
Thanks a lot.
How do you do the SMD bargraphs? :O those are so cool!
Those are some fine fine point tweezers. Where'd you get them?
Hay Rob would it be possible to ad an illuminated crystal with the nano biscotte V4? if so how would one go about doing that? and could you make a video about it?
Keola Takamori I think the NBv4 has one accent LED pad on it, that could be used on a single crystal with a 5mm LED.
There is a power indicator pad, it lights up. If you want an flickering, wire it parallel to the blade.
hello love it may i ack you for a link to that mother bord not the sound card plz iv looked and i can not fined the 1 from your vidow plz help sorry for my bad spelling im dislexick spell like shit :) is this it ? Crystal Focus Sound Module V9
Is the proffie board easiier?
Cool video rob
Is there a way to have a saber with multiple colors? Like how you can press a button to change the font but instead it changes a color. I know there's something called an RGB or something like that...
Yes,
You need a sound card that is meant for that. The Prizm is an excellent choice.
Hey Rob, I have some SMD LED's wired directly onto my PCv4, is it possible to change the order and way they flash? At the moment they just blink in order when ignited and a single one blinks when the saber is off. Thanks!
I can't recall if the PC4 has any led.txt file for that. It should be in the manual though
may I know why across pad is stronger than through hole? or does it depend on the wire position? less stress due to no bending?
That's exactly right. Through the hole means the wire is sticking straight up at the most fragile point. It's necessary sometimes, but across the hole is better in most cases
Like in the electronic department area
so a noob question. do the rgb led's create white also or do you need an additional white led? like for instance of you wanted foc to be white would just the rgb led do white.
I think I got it but I could be or google could be wrong? hahahahah but an equal intensity of RGB results in White. so when your adjusting the numbers on the sd card all you would do for instance would put the same # for all three led's (like 100,100,100)?
bobby d in my experience, it's equal parts blue and green and a lower setting for red. sp for RGB mine is set at 90, 700, 700. That gives a nice ice white.
Indeed - you have to play with the values - but white is possible.
Hey Rob, I've been tinkering with the CFv8 for some time now and have run into a snag. I've been emailing back and forth with Erv, and Michael to see if there's anything they know to offer to help. I have wired up my CFv8 with a RGrB on a CEx. That's it. I am keeping it simple for now to test it since this problem keeps arising. When I ignite the saber, the board cuts the power about a second after the LED lights up. If I set the override.txt color profiles up to have 50,50,50,0 -- I get a pattern of the LED dice lighting individually like accent LED's in a sequence. It has done this with the override profiles taken out, using the color profile in the config.txt of each font bank. I have tested two different CFv8's and the flashing-different-colors-LED issue is only on this one, while both of them show the problem of shutting off shortly after ignition. I have tested this with three different batteries, getting the same result. I have also tested two different recharge ports and still had the same result.
I've read the manual several times to see if I have missed anything but nothing has looked out of the ordinary. If there's anything you might think be the issue, by all means--I would really appreciate some assistance. I'm going to send one of the CFv8's to Michael for repairs so he can look at it. Though with this new CFv8 that I've wired up, this problem shouldn't be happening. I'd really appreciate some help Rob!
Super helpful video too!
Off the top of my head - your switch setup might be wrong. If it's set for a latching switch and yours is momentary it would shut off like that.
Can't explain the main LEDs lighting in sequence like that. Never seen that.
"switch" is set to 2
I read the manual several times and have checked every config file. I'm at a loss for what's going on
Unless you pasted a switch parameter to the override file, or some other slip like that - I'd guess that it must be a short somewhere. Did you use any steel wool anywhere near you work surface? That stuff is impossible to see and gets everywhere.
No steel wool, though I do use brass wool or brass sponge to clean the tip of my iron. Not as small as steel wool though. And I don't know about the switch parameter being anywhere it shouldn't because I've tried this with two different SD cards; one with the fonts I've purchased, and the other with the default files directly from TCSS. I'll spray the boards with some canned air and do a full re-wiring to make sure there's no shorts.
I love these videos they are helpful I just don’t know how to sauder😂
I looked for, but couldn't find, a video of the NB V3 being used to light up a crystal chamber. I've heard of it being done, and I've heard there are several ways one can do it, ie where the crystal flickers like the blade, or where it's lit all the time, or even where it's lit until deep sleep happens. Any way you can do a video on something like that?
There's an explanation in the NB manual about an accent LED that mirrors the blade.
Rob Petkau I must have missed it, I'll have to re-read the manual. Thanks.
Read it over and over and over. It mentions how to do it, you will still have to develop your own diagram. Head over to the custom saber shop for checks and even search for diagrams others have used.
Josh Leedle I only read the parts that were pertinent at the time I built my Saber, which didn't include a crystal at the time. I guess I should've read further, cause I did find the info I needed after Rob said it was there. Lol.
Bruce Ferguson ...Go to Shoot2Thrill468. He has some tutorials for Maki g a Graflex 2.0 with a Crystal Chamber using the NBv3.
Does this work with cfx?
The wiring is not the same on the CF version 10 board (cfx), as the grounding path is different. If you look at the manual on page 26, the eight topside circuit paths are mirrored on the bottom side of the board - topside of board is positive and bottom side of board is negative. So that means you have to bridge both sides I guess? Unless you just ground to some other point on the board. The question I have is if there is some setting in the config file that has to be changed to enable the accent led pads?
this works with prizm 5,1 also right?
never mind.. it doesn't..
6:19 yes yes then you not build rgb. then you use red led and red saber led.real fans build one color one sound font.
those who build multiple colors and sound fonts not fans. they just build custom saber. and they cant choose what is best color. they want all features.like now new iphone this year with this SAME price.
its so silly use butoon for select color when that button combo could be used other way like blaster sound or something else. color can be change from config.its like building saber and changing crystal. it not happen click on button. we not build show ppiece that will be good for everyone becouse all colors. every one have to like it LOOOOL
English?