Already use one. Have moved away from using kerosene. Curious if there is a safe solvent for wax based chain lube. Some recommend boiling water. This does not seem safe or practical. Have dipped chains into molten wax, but not so sure it gets clean enough. Would it work to have molten wax in ultrasonic parts cleaner?
Pro tip for Ollie--- put your chain and cassette in a zip loc bag and fill it with the cleaning solution. Then place that bag in the ultrasound machine after filling the machine with water. That way, you do not have to use as much solution AND you do not have to clean the machine afterwards. The ultrasound goes right thru the bag and will not affect the cleaning.
Here’s a little constructive suggestion for you, Ollie. When showing the “after cleaning” results, stop wiggling and waving the parts around so much. It’s difficult to tell how clean the cassette actually is since the eyes cannot focus on it long enough. Also, let us see the other side of the cassette where most of the chain sludge accumulates. Otherwise, great video.
yes! I found this video so frustrating to watch! He looked at his cassette, marvelling at the difference between the cleaned half and the untouched half, but we couldn't see anything. We did not even get a real good look at the clean chain. I just got an ultrasonic cleaner and did some tests yesterday cleaning a bicycle chain. Tried dishwashing soap. Not good. Tried dishwasher soap. Not good. Tried Oxyclean. Not good. These attempts removed fine particles of dirt and apparently metal that I could find at the bottom of the tank, but left sticky muck in place. Finally tried a mixture of white vinegar and dishwashing liquid soap. That worked. But the chain turned black. All tests at about 140F if someone's curious. I quickly rinsed the chain after the last test and left it to dry. The vinegar solution might be a terrible idea as it may have stripped a protective coating preventing rust (a very thin layer of rust quickly appeared when the chain was dry). Anyway, as is often the case, the comment section is just as informative as the video, if not more. Love the idea of another poster, consisting of sealing the part to be cleaned in a ziplock with the cleaning solution (will try diluted Muc-Off degreaser next), before immersing the bag in water to avoid unnecessarily diluting the cleaning solution. Update: just checked on my cleaned chain and I must say that it looks fantastic finally (cleaned it about 12 hours ago). If someone's curious: I cleaned it with a solution of about 40% double strength white vinegar and 60% water plus a couple of tablespoons of dishwashing liquid soap. Half an hour at 140F. Then rinsed thoroughly, wiped it and left it to dry. Chain was a dark black coming out of the solution, but all the muck was gone (at last). A very thin layer of rust appeared at the surface of the dry chain. I coated it with Muc-Off dry lube (liquid when applied...). Wiped off excess lube. Now the chain is no longer black: the original dark gray is back. There's absolutely no rust visible. Could vinegar and soap be a good idea after all?? (note that it's extremely cheap...)
Unless you’re all accusing GCN for swapping out the parts for clean ones to act like it worked, he clearly shows the chain and cassette after it was in the bath. Noticeable difference and you can see the half clean, half dirty cassette, no problem.
I've been trying to shop for this but, nobody ever mentioned what volume do we need, 3l,5,6, 10 or more Liter in order to be able to completely submerge a 40T cassete inside together with front 54t front cogs chains and other drivetrain parts? what frequency & wattage should the device be capable of for for most efficiency? what detergent should one use? they sell some detergent with the device but, can one use just water and dish detergent and a bit of aceton, thinner isopropyl alcohol or some other sort of industrial degreaser. These are question I wish they answered with this video.
This video topic is a fine example of why I love watching GCN productions so much. It's like learning some thing new every week from your favourite teachers at school/college/University, but with enthusiasm and humour, on a topic linked to your own hobby. Love it.
Total chemistry nerd here (actually chem. eng.). Thanks for this, it's way more than I normally want to do with my bike parts but very educational and entertaining.
I’ve been doing this for years. I but the chain in a zip lock bag with degreeer and but hot water in the ultrasound cleaner. This way I use less chemicals and I don’t dirty the tub of my ultrasound cleaner.
I have been doing a similar hack. I have a large 10 liter cleaner (2.5 gallon) which is too big for one chain at a time but great if you want to do a crank or a whole groupo (or auto parts) so I have a few plastic tupperware bowls I use for small parts and fill the rest of the space with water. I like your zip-lock idea better. I'll give that a try. I think your way would use even less solvent. saves money and less waste.
I find the difference is not that spectacular on first sight. But whatever dirt is still on the chain comes off much easier. Also the roller internals will be completely dry. Which is also what makes the re-lube with oil or wax bath so important
Yeah im guessing he diluted his degreaser too far and it didn't work as well as expected. Really wanted a before and after of him feeling for grit by flexing the chain :/
For anyone willing to use ultrasonic cleaners: 1. _DONT_ use dedicated ultrasonic liquids. They often are caustic and it will destroy anodizing. 2. Get an unit with a release valve at the bottom, so you don't need to tip the cleaner to get rid of the dirty water. It gets messy otherwise. 3. Likewise - get an unit with heating, make the process faster 4. To throughly clean someting - two - three baths are needed. 5. If you clean something with exposed steel in water based bath - dry it throughly ( a heat gun is helpful ) otherwise rust will get into the part real fast ( as in: within hours ) 6. I found isopropyl alcohol bath to be great to dissolve any old grease from shifters. Then a quick spray of the innards with light oil and its good as new. 7. "Real" men use gasoline bath to clean old grease. Gasoline in ultrasonic bath is cancerous, toxic, flammable and explosive. But cleans stuff real good. EDIT: 8. If any makers read this - make a powerful ( 500+W ) heated bath with shallow tank, but square size - something like 30x30cm on the surface and 3-5cm in depth. It would be great for cleaning chainrings, cassettes and whatnot.
@@desmondlee185 isopropyl may have low alcohol content. Meths is good for the final rinse. (White spirit clean first). Lots about this at zerofrictioncycling.
I just purchased a UltraSonic cleaner and found that starting with hot water from the tap with some Simply Green cleaner works best. I have never had a chain and cassette as clean as this. From there I used an old pot and used Paraffin Wax on the chain. I based upon my research and the help of GCN I believe that this will reduce maintenance cost in the future and reduce the amount of chemicals that will be needed to keep my bike in top shape. Highly recommend.
Make sure you use the "Extreme Simple Green Aircraft & Precision Cleaner" the standard stuff isn't recommended any more (at least for chains) - Even though I used the standard Simple Green for years when I worked as a bike mechanic in the early 90's and, as far as I know, there were not catastrophic failures as a result :)
That's good, but don't even need a washing-machine agitator. I put mine in old paint cans (clean and remove the lip with a can opener). Agitate for a few seconds every time you walk by. Done. Pour the dirty solvent (in the US, use "low odor paint thinner") in a gallon container and let settle. Once settled, pour the liquid (it'll be stained but have no particulate) into your "clean" one-gallon solvent container, and re-use. One gallon of solvent will last ten or more years. At some point the solids won't properly settle. Properly discard the container with the settled solids (might have ½" of crud) and start a new one.
This looks like a contender for a video to update and especially show the difference between cleaned and uncleaned areas. The use of ziplock bags really reduces the use of chemicals and that must be much greener.
As Chris Williams mentioned, add water only to the USC. Place the cleaning solution and the part into a glass/plastic/metal container and set the container into the USC. This not only allows easy cleanup and storing of the cleaning solution, but also will let you clean parts taller than your USC if your container is tall enough.
By god I think Ollie is in his element, SCIENCE! Good job. The points I would want to make to the viewers are to be sure to get a unit that is large enough to submerge all the parts you want to clean. I got a small one that is good for small parts and chains but not cassettes, similar to Ollie's issue. Another point to consider is what to do post cleaning. After you rinse off the components, be sure to dry them as thoroughly as possible. You now have water and degreaser in the tightest of spots. A compressor or air canister to blow them out works very well. Then be sure to re-lubricate them almost immediately so that you don't introduce rust to the components. I ride a lot and I will clean my drive train after each ride. I use sonic cleaning about once per chain in the middle of its life, so for me about every 600-800 miles or 1000km-1300km depending on road conditions.
I would love to have seen a more thorough and up-close look of how the chain and cassette looked after they were cleaned. Does it beat petrol in cleaning ability? I know. I know. Petrol is the devil. I soak my chains in a sealed container so no vapors escape. I use a coffee filter and recycle the petrol I use to clean my chains and can get many, many cleanings from just a little of the solvent. I also clean outside. I also use gloves. I also bike everywhere and so use much less petrol per day than the average human. Plus...
Petrol and other harsh chemicals do get more bad rep than they deserve. The liquids can be re-used almost infinitely when used just to clean bike parts.
Anyone concerned about the environmental effects of using a litre of petrol (which will last years btw) to keep a bike in good running condition has a strange sense of values.
I use an ultrasonic cleaner, works great. However, I put my chain in gasoline (petrol) for a few minutes, then a degreaser wash. Then to the sonic cleaner. It's great when you can use a paper towel to dry the chain and not see and grease residue on the towel.
A ultrasonic cleaner hack: Fill the cleaner with normal water, then take a old plastic jar (or glass depending on the cleaner you're using) and put your de-greaser of your choice in it. And put the component you want to clean in the jar, and put the jar in to the water. The sound waves still pass into the jar and it still cleans just as well, but you're using less of your cleaner of choice.
Here is a tip to avoid having to cleaning out the greasy the black bits coating your ultrasonic cleaner tank tank. Put the cleaner solution and the parts in a zip-lock bag. Put some water in the tank and drop the bag in. The bag won't effect the cleaning effects of the ultrasound. Less muss and fuss.
this was every friday at last job. though our bath was for cleaning ship parts. get to work, all the commuters minimum pulled off chains into sonic bath. coffee break chain out of bath soak in tub of chain lube till lunch, then chain hang dries until afternoon coffee, when bike is re assembled and ready to ride home.
Ultrasound builds up standing wave nodes and anti nodes, distribute across the 3D volume of liquid. Sound wave agitates the liquid then agitate chain metal, stain and surface debris. There are two important piece not often discuss about. 1) some minute and hard debris doesn’t sink to bath bed while machine is running, continue to stay suspended in the fluid by ultrasonic standing wave - acts like spotty sand paper on part surface. 2) distributed cavities (followed by cyclic implosion) can accelerate those suspended debris at the metal surface like sand blasting. Given enough time that can be our unwanted erosion. Shiny metal surfaces can turn into lava rock finish full of spotty and minute cavities, and in extreme case create irregular surface profile. I was there in my first run of a new cleaner.
I've used one for about three years on my bikes. When I start, say with an old chain, I soak it first in a can covered with white gas for a day or so, stirring on occasion. I then put the chain in the USonic cleaner. Simple Green is in the water. I don't start the USC until the lid is on. I usually clean it for a couple of cycles of 480 seconds. One might have to change the water once after the first round. I think the cleaners cost around $70ish USD. When the chain is dry, I soak it in melted paraffin, in a small electric crock-pot. I stir until the bubble stop and say another 10 minutes to be sure the paraffin gets in all the crevices. I love the system and have seen it affirmed on youtube videos. The chain seems to stay pretty, well really, clean. They say the treatment is good for 5-600 miles.
A super idea for cassettes, but as for chains, I would never hassle with removing a chain, but do recommend using a snap-on chain cleaner filled with 'dawn for dishes' -- ah yes, good old dawn, it super cleans a bike chain, and it looks like new when you're done. But, like you, I clean mine after each ride for that showroom look and feel.
Hi Ollie, 1st you better use more liquid. At least 2/3 of the tube, not just 1/3 of the tube... the ultrasonic cleaner will last longer. 2nd liquid soap/detergent from the kitchen does it as well. 3rd my private solution for filthy greasy metal: liquid soap/detergent with 1 or 2 gulps of denatured alcohol. It cleans much better, the water is "softer" and it has more cleaning potential. 4th I prefer to take out objects while the unltrasonic device is still un operation. The dirt stays better in the bath and less on the object. 5th why just 51°C and not 60 or 80? 6th how do you get the water out of the last corner or gap? How about a flush with senatured alcohol or/and drying on a heater?
Have you guys considered doing a maintenance video for direct drive trainers? I've had my bike on mine all winter and am starting to think about taking it off for spring/summer, I've not idea if there is anything maintenance wise I should be considering for my bike or my trainer after that period...
When I use white spirit I pour any used/dirty spirit back into an empty bottle. By the time I need to use it again all the particle matter has sunk to to the bottom and I can just carefully pour clear spirits out for reuse.
@@marksheehangolfcourses4722 it does! But as said in the video, I use a brush to loosen the really heavy stuff first. Also, a friend at an automotive shop with a "parts washer" piece of equipment can come in especially handy for super dirty items, then into the ultrasonic bath.
@@robinthebrave2755 I use Muck Off as of late. Full strength, but as its expensive, I run it through a coffee filter and try to at least get the big stuff out, so I can use it again. I've also had really good luck with Simple Green. Smells good, and is a LOT cheaper than Muck Off. I use that 3/4 to full strength. If its rust removal I'm after, I used M-51 and 2 hours soaking, not in the ultrasonic.
Glenn Howell thanks Glenn. I have just started using one. I use a degreaser in a tub which floats in the water. I like the idea of a coffee filter. Thanks for replying 😃
I could really use your help. What ultrasonic cleaner would you recommend for a 12speed cassette and chain for mtb cause it clearly won’t fit in that tinny one thanks
Larger cassettes should fit fine, if you're using a really big cassette with a 50t then you may have to run it through a couple of times rotating each time to clean the whole thing
GCN Tech do you have a link to the one you have by chance? Lastly I Was wondering how many litters is the one you showed is it a 3L? again thanks for your time I appreciate it.
You shouldn't have to lube after every ride, unless you're always pedalling away in mud and filth (which you might very well do if you're mountain biking now that I think about it).
Yo Ollie! Hope your Hr Record TT went Well !! You guys at GCN REALLY should get an ultrasonic bath sponsor. I would totally buy a GCN USB (UltraSonic Bath)
Cleaning can be as simple as soaking your chain or cassette in gas, or rubbing alcohol. No need to spend money on cool gadgets, just get a glass jar, fill with gas, or rubbing alcohol, swish a couple times over 24 hours, and it does a better job, for cheaper.
I have now stopped using my ultrasonic cleaner for items with friction joints e.g. rivets. So cassettes and chains. Over time the ultrasonic cleaner loosens these joints giving premature wear of the components.
Downside to these baths is that they are loud! I have one and I don't think I can use it in an apartment complex. Im with family now so I can use it in the garage but when I move out Im not sure how the neighbors will take it
for those of us of a certain vintage its sound is just like flash Gordons rocket ship from the old serials the memory of Saturday morning cinema club came rushing back !
I saw one of those floating cities as seen in Flash Gorden, several years ago straight above Whitwick woods, Leicesterahire. Well it looked just like what I remember from Flash Gordon. I turned away, looked into the sky again and it was gone. That was a weird experience, but very memorable. Popped into our dimension just for a moment and then vanished again.
i find best results when i liberally spray with degreaser onto the part in the empty bath, then fill the cleaning bath with boiling water from the kettle, and give it about 10 minutes. best to leave the room because it is pretty noisy. They do work, but you need to scrub off afterwards.
Good show. I used to use the microwave to clean the chain and cassettes but the explosions prompted the wife to forbid me from entering the kitchen. Ultrasonic is better.
So Dr Bridgewood (the clean shaven Clark Kent to Oilie's Superman) whilst white spirit may have an autoignition temperature of over 200˚C it also can have a flash point as low as 20˚C. If the vapours find a suitable ignition source they will ignite. For perspective petrol typically has a flash point of below -40˚C and an autoignition temperature of >240˚C (weirdly higher than diesel at around 210˚C). On a serious note, putting neat flammable liquids in a heated bath outside of a properly protected facility is potentially very dangerous and a clean chain is not worth getting hurt or burning your house down for. I'd go with plain water or an aqueous degreaser solution.
In the past I wrecked a chain as I cleaned it so well with Kero all the internal lubricant was stripped. With this method what step are require to make sure this does not happen?
You ALWAYS need to re-lubricate your chain after cleaning it. Before lubricating it, make sure any water/solvent in the chain has evaporated as any mositure could get trapped in there. Use a lubricant that is capable of penetrating the pins and rollers, common options are oil (gearbox oil or expensive chain oil) wax (molten wax or dissolved). Give the lubricant a few minutes to penetrate and clean off any excess lubricant after that.
They also clean spectacles. Even fake ones. And vape paraphernalia. I wonder - if you put a clean chain in an isolated container full of lube then put that container in the sonicator.. will the lube work it's way into the chain gubbins? Then it could truly be like new.
Fine: I use one all the time in my workshop for drivetrains, and even rejuvenating tired 10 speed shifters, derailleurs, etc. HOWEVER: make sure you get a good warranty on whichever one you buy, as the transducers on cheap Chinese ones tend to cack out sooner or even sooner, and once that happens, it goes in the bin. I learnt that lesson at a shop I used to work at, and bought a good quality lab spec German-made one, with a warranty and service agent nearby. 10x the price of an eBay special, but it will last 10x longer, I'm pretty sure of it.
What’s Oli doing with my bath??? I’m a bit OCD at cleaning my bikes. I use the cleaner after every ride in the winter and my chains last around 3000 miles.
Rotate 3 chains you'll get far more than 3000 out of them, the cassette and chainrinngs will last far longer too. If I only got 3000 miles out of them i'd be replacing my block and chain every 2-3 months ouch.
Some comments below say it takes the grease out of the chain. Ummm, I didn't think grease was in chains, that's why you use oil or wax for your chains. You have to remove as much grit from your chain or the chain acts like sandpaper to your cassette and inside the chain racers.
there is a manufacturer, factory applied lube on the chain. Whether you call it grease or oil is probably semantics. For my usual chains (KMC) it is a pretty thick compound!
Hi to all the fellow TH-camrs. After all that, the least I was expecting was some bike porn in the form of close-ups of the chain in all its glory. All I get to see is a quarter screen shot of the chain. How anti-climactic. Massively disappointed.
Be carefull with polished aluminum parts on dereillieurs and shifters - most of the time they are coated transparently which can start to come off by the cavitation and results in flakey white oxydation. Generally be careful with all coated parts and ultrasonic cleaners.
Would you use an ultrasonic cleaner on your bike parts?
I need one for my .22LR moderator. Might as well use it for my bike chain as well.
About once a year after winter wash off the road salt.
Already use one. Have moved away from using kerosene. Curious if there is a safe solvent for wax based chain lube. Some recommend boiling water. This does not seem safe or practical. Have dipped chains into molten wax, but not so sure it gets clean enough. Would it work to have molten wax in ultrasonic parts cleaner?
I do.
Yes, especially if it pays for itself by getting a couple extra months out of my drivetrain
Pro tip for Ollie--- put your chain and cassette in a zip loc bag and fill it with the cleaning solution. Then place that bag in the ultrasound machine after filling the machine with water. That way, you do not have to use as much solution AND you do not have to clean the machine afterwards. The ultrasound goes right thru the bag and will not affect the cleaning.
What litre size do you reckon that cleaner was?
@@bushsons100 That one is probably a 3 liter model.
I suggest you use a glass jar because it allows the ultrasonic frequency to penetrate with enough strength to thoroughly clean your item vs plastic.
Or a pickle jar. Not for the cassette, but for the chain
Does anyone know the size in litres of an ultrasonic cleaner large enough to take a chainwheel with a fixed crank, please. I’m only going to buy one!
Here’s a little constructive suggestion for you, Ollie. When showing the “after cleaning” results, stop wiggling and waving the parts around so much. It’s difficult to tell how clean the cassette actually is since the eyes cannot focus on it long enough. Also, let us see the other side of the cassette where most of the chain sludge accumulates. Otherwise, great video.
yeah, id really like to see a still frame closeup of the chain before/after, plus a still shot of the cassette
yes! I found this video so frustrating to watch! He looked at his cassette, marvelling at the difference between the cleaned half and the untouched half, but we couldn't see anything. We did not even get a real good look at the clean chain. I just got an ultrasonic cleaner and did some tests yesterday cleaning a bicycle chain. Tried dishwashing soap. Not good. Tried dishwasher soap. Not good. Tried Oxyclean. Not good. These attempts removed fine particles of dirt and apparently metal that I could find at the bottom of the tank, but left sticky muck in place. Finally tried a mixture of white vinegar and dishwashing liquid soap. That worked. But the chain turned black. All tests at about 140F if someone's curious. I quickly rinsed the chain after the last test and left it to dry. The vinegar solution might be a terrible idea as it may have stripped a protective coating preventing rust (a very thin layer of rust quickly appeared when the chain was dry). Anyway, as is often the case, the comment section is just as informative as the video, if not more. Love the idea of another poster, consisting of sealing the part to be cleaned in a ziplock with the cleaning solution (will try diluted Muc-Off degreaser next), before immersing the bag in water to avoid unnecessarily diluting the cleaning solution. Update: just checked on my cleaned chain and I must say that it looks fantastic finally (cleaned it about 12 hours ago). If someone's curious: I cleaned it with a solution of about 40% double strength white vinegar and 60% water plus a couple of tablespoons of dishwashing liquid soap. Half an hour at 140F. Then rinsed thoroughly, wiped it and left it to dry. Chain was a dark black coming out of the solution, but all the muck was gone (at last). A very thin layer of rust appeared at the surface of the dry chain. I coated it with Muc-Off dry lube (liquid when applied...). Wiped off excess lube. Now the chain is no longer black: the original dark gray is back. There's absolutely no rust visible. Could vinegar and soap be a good idea after all?? (note that it's extremely cheap...)
“The chains much cleaner, check this out” The shot of the chain shrinks to less than a quarter of the screen. Nice.
7 minutes and 44 seconds for not showing the results. Good job
: Yeah, totally. Why no close ups and futher inspections of the chain?
I like that
because the ultrasonic is not that sonic lolz
WTH no results? I feel duped. Showing a Sram logo from 1/4 mile away is not compelling.
Unless you’re all accusing GCN for swapping out the parts for clean ones to act like it worked, he clearly shows the chain and cassette after it was in the bath. Noticeable difference and you can see the half clean, half dirty cassette, no problem.
I've been trying to shop for this but, nobody ever mentioned what volume do we need, 3l,5,6, 10 or more Liter in order to be able to completely submerge a 40T cassete inside together with front 54t front cogs chains and other drivetrain parts? what frequency & wattage should the device be capable of for for most efficiency? what detergent should one use? they sell some detergent with the device but, can one use just water and dish detergent and a bit of aceton, thinner isopropyl alcohol or some other sort of industrial degreaser. These are question I wish they answered with this video.
Yay, more science with Oli, I love it when he gets all technical, it makes the show even more interesting. Bring on the hardcore science.
This video topic is a fine example of why I love watching GCN productions so much. It's like learning some thing new every week from your favourite teachers at school/college/University, but with enthusiasm and humour, on a topic linked to your own hobby. Love it.
Total chemistry nerd here (actually chem. eng.). Thanks for this, it's way more than I normally want to do with my bike parts but very educational and entertaining.
I’ve been doing this for years. I but the chain in a zip lock bag with degreeer and but hot water in the ultrasound cleaner. This way I use less chemicals and I don’t dirty the tub of my ultrasound cleaner.
I have been doing a similar hack. I have a large 10 liter cleaner (2.5 gallon) which is too big for one chain at a time but great if you want to do a crank or a whole groupo (or auto parts) so I have a few plastic tupperware bowls I use for small parts and fill the rest of the space with water. I like your zip-lock idea better. I'll give that a try. I think your way would use even less solvent. saves money and less waste.
Good tip!
How much degreaser do you put in the bag?
How durable is zip lock bag should be?
@@daysetx You can use glass jar, works even better.
I am wondering why, the most important scene - showing the chain after - was so small and so short...
just asking ;-)
I find the difference is not that spectacular on first sight. But whatever dirt is still on the chain comes off much easier. Also the roller internals will be completely dry. Which is also what makes the re-lube with oil or wax bath so important
Yeah im guessing he diluted his degreaser too far and it didn't work as well as expected. Really wanted a before and after of him feeling for grit by flexing the chain :/
Look up a TH-camr called OzCycle - has some great videos on cleaning chains and comparing sonication to other methods.
@@discbrakefan He doesn't rate using sonic cleaner too highly.
I’m cleaning chains in an ultrasonic bath when the notification for this video arrives. Spooky. 👻
For anyone willing to use ultrasonic cleaners:
1. _DONT_ use dedicated ultrasonic liquids. They often are caustic and it will destroy anodizing.
2. Get an unit with a release valve at the bottom, so you don't need to tip the cleaner to get rid of the dirty water. It gets messy otherwise.
3. Likewise - get an unit with heating, make the process faster
4. To throughly clean someting - two - three baths are needed.
5. If you clean something with exposed steel in water based bath - dry it throughly ( a heat gun is helpful ) otherwise rust will get into the part real fast ( as in: within hours )
6. I found isopropyl alcohol bath to be great to dissolve any old grease from shifters. Then a quick spray of the innards with light oil and its good as new.
7. "Real" men use gasoline bath to clean old grease. Gasoline in ultrasonic bath is cancerous, toxic, flammable and explosive. But cleans stuff real good.
EDIT: 8. If any makers read this - make a powerful ( 500+W ) heated bath with shallow tank, but square size - something like 30x30cm on the surface and 3-5cm in depth. It would be great for cleaning chainrings, cassettes and whatnot.
@@marcusy7421 Not really. It does evaporate at like, 60 something Celsius.
Is the isoproply alcohol the ones that are found at any pharmacy? And is pharmacy the only place that sells IPA?
@@desmondlee185 I get my IPA off local equivalent of e-bay in 5 liter jugs :) it is a very popular solvent, should be available in any hardware store.
@@TryboBike thanks for sharing!
@@desmondlee185 isopropyl may have low alcohol content. Meths is good for the final rinse. (White spirit clean first). Lots about this at zerofrictioncycling.
Next week: How to clean your bibshorts with a bench top autoclave.
Might need a bench grinder for that.
I just purchased a UltraSonic cleaner and found that starting with hot water from the tap with some Simply Green cleaner works best. I have never had a chain and cassette as clean as this. From there I used an old pot and used Paraffin Wax on the chain. I based upon my research and the help of GCN I believe that this will reduce maintenance cost in the future and reduce the amount of chemicals that will be needed to keep my bike in top shape. Highly recommend.
Make sure you use the "Extreme Simple Green Aircraft & Precision Cleaner" the standard stuff isn't recommended any more (at least for chains) - Even though I used the standard Simple Green for years when I worked as a bike mechanic in the early 90's and, as far as I know, there were not catastrophic failures as a result :)
Stick your chain in a jar of degreaser and put it on top of your front-loading washer. Wash load and let the vibration agitate out the dirt ;)
That's good, but don't even need a washing-machine agitator. I put mine in old paint cans (clean and remove the lip with a can opener). Agitate for a few seconds every time you walk by. Done.
Pour the dirty solvent (in the US, use "low odor paint thinner") in a gallon container and let settle. Once settled, pour the liquid (it'll be stained but have no particulate) into your "clean" one-gallon solvent container, and re-use. One gallon of solvent will last ten or more years. At some point the solids won't properly settle. Properly discard the container with the settled solids (might have ½" of crud) and start a new one.
See Oli has undergone his hour record shave. Good luck!!
Looks 5 yrs younger as well.
Improved aero.. + 2 watts!
This looks like a contender for a video to update and especially show the difference between cleaned and uncleaned areas. The use of ziplock bags really reduces the use of chemicals and that must be much greener.
As Chris Williams mentioned, add water only to the USC. Place the cleaning solution and the part into a glass/plastic/metal container and set the container into the USC. This not only allows easy cleanup and storing of the cleaning solution, but also will let you clean parts taller than your USC if your container is tall enough.
By god I think Ollie is in his element, SCIENCE! Good job.
The points I would want to make to the viewers are to be sure to get a unit that is large enough to submerge all the parts you want to clean. I got a small one that is good for small parts and chains but not cassettes, similar to Ollie's issue.
Another point to consider is what to do post cleaning. After you rinse off the components, be sure to dry them as thoroughly as possible. You now have water and degreaser in the tightest of spots. A compressor or air canister to blow them out works very well. Then be sure to re-lubricate them almost immediately so that you don't introduce rust to the components.
I ride a lot and I will clean my drive train after each ride. I use sonic cleaning about once per chain in the middle of its life, so for me about every 600-800 miles or 1000km-1300km depending on road conditions.
I would love to have seen a more thorough and up-close look of how the chain and cassette looked after they were cleaned. Does it beat petrol in cleaning ability? I know. I know. Petrol is the devil. I soak my chains in a sealed container so no vapors escape. I use a coffee filter and recycle the petrol I use to clean my chains and can get many, many cleanings from just a little of the solvent. I also clean outside. I also use gloves. I also bike everywhere and so use much less petrol per day than the average human. Plus...
Just started doing the same. That and the slow cooker/wax/PTFE. Nothing goes down drains or wasted.
Petrol and other harsh chemicals do get more bad rep than they deserve. The liquids can be re-used almost infinitely when used just to clean bike parts.
@@bobferguson1696 Right on Brother Bob!
@@lj2616 Right on Brother JJ!
Anyone concerned about the environmental effects of using a litre of petrol (which will last years btw) to keep a bike in good running condition has a strange sense of values.
QUESTION: What size of the ultrasound cleaner is advisable? 3L or 2L ?🤷♂️ 🤷♂️ 🤷♂️
Using for cassettes etc.
I'm scrolling through the comments for the answer to this. Do you have the answer yet?
That's my question too
@@allastairlee8797 Would like to know that as well.
I eventually bought the VGT-1620QTD model which turned out ok for my needs. It says it's a 2L however looks smaller. Works for me though. @wimpie
@@wimpie031 I eventually bought the VGT-1620QTD model which turned out ok for my needs. It says it's a 2L however looks smaller. Works for me though.
I use an ultrasonic cleaner, works great. However, I put my chain in gasoline (petrol) for a few minutes, then a degreaser wash. Then to the sonic cleaner. It's great when you can use a paper towel to dry the chain and not see and grease residue on the towel.
What was the capacity of the GT Sonic ultrasonic cleaner you used?
3 litres
good video. interesting to see Ollie three years younger. big difference
A ultrasonic cleaner hack: Fill the cleaner with normal water, then take a old plastic jar (or glass depending on the cleaner you're using) and put your de-greaser of your choice in it. And put the component you want to clean in the jar, and put the jar in to the water. The sound waves still pass into the jar and it still cleans just as well, but you're using less of your cleaner of choice.
Or a zip lock bag
Here is a tip to avoid having to cleaning out the greasy the black bits coating your ultrasonic cleaner tank tank. Put the cleaner solution and the parts in a zip-lock bag. Put some water in the tank and drop the bag in. The bag won't effect the cleaning effects of the ultrasound. Less muss and fuss.
As a retired chemist I love the nerdy bits!
How'd you go about "cleaning" the mineral spirits to reuse? (Without boiling it?)
But how do you reapply the lube deep into the rollers after this treatment? Would you need to bathe the chain in oil then or what?
I'd say yes. That's what the paraffin method calls for.
Needed to see the chain close up also for longer! Also the cassette was hard to see the difference. Might have to get one of these !
Nothing cleans better than gasoline or diesel. Just dive in and brush a few times. Very cheap and efficient.
Hi GCN, can you point out a good degreaser and the water / degreaser ratio to use?
WOW! Didn’t know you were a chemist, love chemistry myself!!
What size (liters) was that particular ultrasonic cleaner?
3
ozcycle did a review of ultrasonic vs handheld chain cleaner vs homemade cleaner. ultrasonic came out cleanest with 2 runs of 15 minutes each.
What frequency is best? Belt drives are best, choose them if possible
Does ultrasonic cleaning work as well on waxed chains? Maybe even better? Still using a drop of degreaser I suppose.
Blimey, I didn't know Ollie was old enough to have had a teenage son! I regret not being more respectful with past comments.
What size is the tank you used n this video please
this was every friday at last job. though our bath was for cleaning ship parts. get to work, all the commuters minimum pulled off chains into sonic bath. coffee break chain out of bath soak in tub of chain lube till lunch, then chain hang dries until afternoon coffee, when bike is re assembled and ready to ride home.
How many litres was the one you used?
Ultrasound builds up standing wave nodes and anti nodes, distribute across the 3D volume of liquid. Sound wave agitates the liquid then agitate chain metal, stain and surface debris.
There are two important piece not often discuss about. 1) some minute and hard debris doesn’t sink to bath bed while machine is running, continue to stay suspended in the fluid by ultrasonic standing wave - acts like spotty sand paper on part surface. 2) distributed cavities (followed by cyclic implosion) can accelerate those suspended debris at the metal surface like sand blasting. Given enough time that can be our unwanted erosion. Shiny metal surfaces can turn into lava rock finish full of spotty and minute cavities, and in extreme case create irregular surface profile. I was there in my first run of a new cleaner.
What size/capacity, and what were the dimensions of the tank on that one you used?
3 litres
I use a 2L square shaped ultrasonic cleaner and my cassettes fit perfectly. Living in Tokyo where storage is at a premium, the smaller the better!
@@arunabasnayake5258 do you have a link for the model you have...that sounds about perfect!
I've used one for about three years on my bikes. When I start, say with an old chain, I soak it first in a can covered with white gas for a day or so, stirring on occasion.
I then put the chain in the USonic cleaner. Simple Green is in the water. I don't start the USC until the lid is on. I usually clean it for a couple of cycles of 480 seconds. One might have to change the water once after the first round.
I think the cleaners cost around $70ish USD.
When the chain is dry, I soak it in melted paraffin, in a small electric crock-pot. I stir until the bubble stop and say another 10 minutes to be sure the paraffin gets in all the crevices.
I love the system and have seen it affirmed on youtube videos. The chain seems to stay pretty, well really, clean. They say the treatment is good for 5-600 miles.
You might have taken this a bit too far...
Richard Smith Could be!
Hi there !
It’s possible to know which kind of liquid solution I have to use inside of the ultrasonic bath?
Thanks
Can you put SRAM ETAP derailure in the bath?
Hey Ollie, did you degas the Liquid first?
SRAM PG 1130 cassettes !!!!!
I do need one of these....more so as I ride gravel bikes and MTB's......
A super idea for cassettes, but as for chains, I would never hassle with removing a chain, but do recommend using a snap-on chain cleaner filled with 'dawn for dishes' -- ah yes, good old dawn, it super cleans a bike chain, and it looks like new when you're done. But, like you, I clean mine after each ride for that showroom look and feel.
What ultrasonic unit would u suggest?
So did Simon perform a “5 minute bike wash” on that chain or not before he handed it over to ultrasonic machine?
Hi Ollie,
1st you better use more liquid. At least 2/3 of the tube, not just 1/3 of the tube... the ultrasonic cleaner will last longer.
2nd liquid soap/detergent from the kitchen does it as well.
3rd my private solution for filthy greasy metal: liquid soap/detergent with 1 or 2 gulps of denatured alcohol. It cleans much better, the water is "softer" and it has more cleaning potential.
4th I prefer to take out objects while the unltrasonic device is still un operation. The dirt stays better in the bath and less on the object.
5th why just 51°C and not 60 or 80?
6th how do you get the water out of the last corner or gap? How about a flush with senatured alcohol or/and drying on a heater?
would a 3L cleaner size be sufficient for bike parts?
What liquids did you use for cleaning?
Have you guys considered doing a maintenance video for direct drive trainers? I've had my bike on mine all winter and am starting to think about taking it off for spring/summer, I've not idea if there is anything maintenance wise I should be considering for my bike or my trainer after that period...
When I use white spirit I pour any used/dirty spirit back into an empty bottle. By the time I need to use it again all the particle matter has sunk to to the bottom and I can just carefully pour clear spirits out for reuse.
Love an ultrasonic cleaner. I've had one for years. I restore old bikes, and use it for all manner of cleaning bits.
Glenn Howell does it work even on very dirty chains and cassette?
@@marksheehangolfcourses4722 it does! But as said in the video, I use a brush to loosen the really heavy stuff first. Also, a friend at an automotive shop with a "parts washer" piece of equipment can come in especially handy for super dirty items, then into the ultrasonic bath.
Glen,
What degreaser and what strength mix do you use ?
@@robinthebrave2755 I use Muck Off as of late. Full strength, but as its expensive, I run it through a coffee filter and try to at least get the big stuff out, so I can use it again. I've also had really good luck with Simple Green. Smells good, and is a LOT cheaper than Muck Off. I use that 3/4 to full strength. If its rust removal I'm after, I used M-51 and 2 hours soaking, not in the ultrasonic.
Glenn Howell thanks Glenn. I have just started using one. I use a degreaser in a tub which floats in the water. I like the idea of a coffee filter. Thanks for replying 😃
I could really use your help. What ultrasonic cleaner would you recommend for a 12speed cassette and chain for mtb cause it clearly won’t fit in that tinny one thanks
Larger cassettes should fit fine, if you're using a really big cassette with a 50t then you may have to run it through a couple of times rotating each time to clean the whole thing
GCN Tech do you have a link to the one you have by chance? Lastly I Was wondering how many litters is the one you showed is it a 3L? again thanks for your time I appreciate it.
That chain and cassette started off pretty clean!
You need to up your cleaning game if you think the chain was clean!
Would you use water with degreaser? I tend to with mine...does the job
Clean chain but now how do you clean the ultrasonic cleaner?
Dump out the container, then wipe with a cloth
Thanks for the nerdiness from another ex-chemist. I have been using one for years.
Can you wash disk brake pad the same way? Mine are contaminated.
thanks for showing me how to clean my drive train with a simple household product 👌
im too lasy for this, i just do a quick chain wipe off, relube after every ride, and replace chain as needed
JogBird the bike industry thanks you for your patronage.
You shouldn't have to lube after every ride, unless you're always pedalling away in mud and filth (which you might very well do if you're mountain biking now that I think about it).
Enjoy riding your black grease covered chain and cassette then
Well said , done .
Its written in Canyon manual that you dont have to degrease the chain. Just wipe and lube.
Yo Ollie! Hope your Hr Record TT went Well !!
You guys at GCN REALLY should get an ultrasonic bath sponsor.
I would totally buy a GCN USB (UltraSonic Bath)
Appropriate because of their office location
Can you use the yellow muc off bio chain cleaner/ drivetrain cleaner?
Just ordered this exact cleaner last month
what capacity did you get? thanks
Who on earth is this actual baby presenting this video? He's a big ol' boy!
Cleaning can be as simple as soaking your chain or cassette in gas, or rubbing alcohol. No need to spend money on cool gadgets, just get a glass jar, fill with gas, or rubbing alcohol, swish a couple times over 24 hours, and it does a better job, for cheaper.
Do you have a human size ultrasonic bath for those muck free aero gains Ollie?
What size (how many lt) will I need to clean an mtb 10-50t cassette ?
Will an ultrasonic cleaner properly lube the chain's internals when you soak one with lube?
I have now stopped using my ultrasonic cleaner for items with friction joints e.g. rivets. So cassettes and chains. Over time the ultrasonic cleaner loosens these joints giving premature wear of the components.
Downside to these baths is that they are loud! I have one and I don't think I can use it in an apartment complex. Im with family now so I can use it in the garage but when I move out Im not sure how the neighbors will take it
1:40 yes, we did need to know that. Knowledge is power and the more you know the better!
love the "my weird skill set"
for those of us of a certain vintage its sound is just like flash Gordons rocket ship from the old serials the memory of Saturday morning cinema club came rushing back !
I saw one of those floating cities as seen in Flash Gorden, several years ago straight above Whitwick woods, Leicesterahire. Well it looked just like what I remember from Flash Gordon. I turned away, looked into the sky again and it was gone. That was a weird experience, but very memorable. Popped into our dimension just for a moment and then vanished again.
Ollie looks like hes been doing a weekend of power at ministry of sound
i love that i can get one of these liquid and 2 chains for what gates wants me to pay for a single speed belt system.
i find best results when i liberally spray with degreaser onto the part in the empty bath, then fill the cleaning bath with boiling water from the kettle, and give it about 10 minutes. best to leave the room because it is pretty noisy. They do work, but you need to scrub off afterwards.
Don't forget to use the basket. Never put items sitting directly on the bottom. It will eat a hole through the bottom. (eventually)
Have you tried re-lubing with hydrogenated oils for margarine-al gains?
Hi
What litre capacity is this machine please
Good show. I used to use the microwave to clean the chain and cassettes but the explosions prompted the wife to forbid me from entering the kitchen. Ultrasonic is better.
So Dr Bridgewood (the clean shaven Clark Kent to Oilie's Superman) whilst white spirit may have an autoignition temperature of over 200˚C it also can have a flash point as low as 20˚C. If the vapours find a suitable ignition source they will ignite. For perspective petrol typically has a flash point of below -40˚C and an autoignition temperature of >240˚C (weirdly higher than diesel at around 210˚C).
On a serious note, putting neat flammable liquids in a heated bath outside of a properly protected facility is potentially very dangerous and a clean chain is not worth getting hurt or burning your house down for. I'd go with plain water or an aqueous degreaser solution.
How big is that GT sonic?
Can you use the same tool to wax your chain?
In the past I wrecked a chain as I cleaned it so well with Kero all the internal lubricant was stripped. With this method what step are require to make sure this does not happen?
You ALWAYS need to re-lubricate your chain after cleaning it.
Before lubricating it, make sure any water/solvent in the chain has evaporated as any mositure could get trapped in there.
Use a lubricant that is capable of penetrating the pins and rollers, common options are oil (gearbox oil or expensive chain oil) wax (molten wax or dissolved).
Give the lubricant a few minutes to penetrate and clean off any excess lubricant after that.
They also clean spectacles. Even fake ones.
And vape paraphernalia.
I wonder - if you put a clean chain in an isolated container full of lube then put that container in the sonicator.. will the lube work it's way into the chain gubbins? Then it could truly be like new.
Tip. Do a straight water rinse in the ultrasonic cleaner for 5 minutes after cleaning.
Fine: I use one all the time in my workshop for drivetrains, and even rejuvenating tired 10 speed shifters, derailleurs, etc.
HOWEVER: make sure you get a good warranty on whichever one you buy, as the transducers on cheap Chinese ones tend to cack out sooner or even sooner, and once that happens, it goes in the bin.
I learnt that lesson at a shop I used to work at, and bought a good quality lab spec German-made one, with a warranty and service agent nearby.
10x the price of an eBay special, but it will last 10x longer, I'm pretty sure of it.
What’s Oli doing with my bath??? I’m a bit OCD at cleaning my bikes. I use the cleaner after every ride in the winter and my chains last around 3000 miles.
Rotate 3 chains you'll get far more than 3000 out of them, the cassette and chainrinngs will last far longer too. If I only got 3000 miles out of them i'd be replacing my block and chain every 2-3 months ouch.
Yep. I buy new chains every 3 months
5:13 - just "bear in" mind. See what you did there
Ollie look very clean! Do not let Si lubricate the chain!
This is great, but when can we see Ollie's hour?
Today isn’t it???
Just been on IG. And I can tell u that he........
Some comments below say it takes the grease out of the chain. Ummm, I didn't think grease was in chains, that's why you use oil or wax for your chains. You have to remove as much grit from your chain or the chain acts like sandpaper to your cassette and inside the chain racers.
there is a manufacturer, factory applied lube on the chain. Whether you call it grease or oil is probably semantics. For my usual chains (KMC) it is a pretty thick compound!
I know what I'll be getting my dental nurse to do for me when she has some spare time. Might even put the chain in the autoclave!😂
Super sterile speed gains - yep
Hi to all the fellow TH-camrs. After all that, the least I was expecting was some bike porn in the form of close-ups of the chain in all its glory. All I get to see is a quarter screen shot of the chain. How anti-climactic. Massively disappointed.
Way over the top pal
Be carefull with polished aluminum parts on dereillieurs and shifters - most of the time they are coated transparently which can start to come off by the cavitation and results in flakey white oxydation. Generally be careful with all coated parts and ultrasonic cleaners.