200km, I can’t figure out when it’s time, the chain doesn’t look oiled (it shines like it’s been degreased), and after the rain it’s generally rusted, although I only welded it in wax. I use hg601 and silca hot wax
First time today! It started to sound a bit rattly so re-waxed it. Evidently I rode 81km, 3 rides, all in the wet, mostly forestry gravel roads on an MTB.
about, 300-350km. I have not changed that approach in the wet (I do not ride on salted roads, just wet roads). I did once listen to the chain and changes, for an increase in noise, and waited till 450km before I heard more noise, so I stay way under that as my rule. However, I have 3 chains on the go, so use the hot wax method, once every 900-1050km. I use boiling water on the chain to clean off the bits before waxing. I have never had rust show! It stays much cleaner. One chain has 10,500km at present and is measuring 0.3% wear.
I go 150-200 miles between waxing. Crazy hot tap water rinse, blow dry, hang for a half day to finish drying out, wax in my ultrasonic cleaner using the degas setting. I have my wax in a large glass baking dish that I float in the ultrasonic cleaner, double boiler style. Blow off with heat gun set to about 250°F as I pull it out of the wax to minimize how much gets stuck in corners and clings on the outer plates. Once cool, roll the chain over a bar to break free the links.
Why not wax with your quick link in place and locked? I always do, assuming it needs to be lubed like every other link does. Never had a problem from it.
I pour boiling water onto the dirty chain in an old washing up bowl, between waxing, to remove all the old wax and any dirt, then clean it with a microfibre cloth. It's also easier to drop the chain in wax if you thread it onto a bent coathanger, folded over several times. Chain replacement times seem to be significantly extended after 2 years of waxing, and cleaning the bike takes 5 minutes as there is no oil
Certainly seems like GCN forgot about that stage.. ALWAYS clean your "dirty chain" with boiling hot water and letting it dry off before rewaxing. As to using like an old hanger, not possible if you are using a small leg waxing unit like what was used in this video.
@@atlantaswelder it's more than twice compared to oil. I tried drip on wax and was not impressed: I cleaned my chain in denatured alcohol after about 4000km and found many metal particles with a magnet. Hot wax chains are good for 8000 km at least. In fact, some people claim around 15k but I haven't had the chance to ride that much yet. I currently rotate between 3 chains and wax them together when all 3 are done
@@atlantaswelder I've been hot waxing my chains for a very long time (currently use the Silca stuff). I ride around 10.000km/year, and re-wax my chain every 500km. My chains last between 20-25.000km before my ParkTool chain stretch tool indicates I need to change the chain. I'm using Shimano HG601 chains. One of my newer bikes has a SRAM flattop chain, which I've also hot waxed. It's currently at around 12.000km and doesn't show any sign of needing replacement. I only ride in dry conditions. One negative thing about waxed chains is if you often ride in wet conditions. Wax is >not< very good in that case. The chain will start to squeak after merely 100km and you'll need to dry the chain after every ride to keep it from corroding/rusting.
After removing the chain I always clean it first in an old plastic bottle filled with degreaser. Shake well and leave for half an hour. You would be amazed at how dirty the degreaser gets. Then dry and apply wax.
Pro-Tip: Shift to the small cog at the outset so you know where to thread the chain at the end. On 1x drive trains this is mandatory, or your derailleur can crash into the cassette when the quick link is opened. Pro-Tip #2: Triple check the routing of the chain around the annoying little tab on the lower cage of your derailleur. Hot waxing dramatically increases the number of opportunities to get this wrong.
So, yes, you can use this method, but if you use a 1L crock pot/ slow cooker, you can thread the chain onto a wire hanger around every 6th link, and simply lower it into the wax, swish it around and let it sit for a bit. Wait a few minutes and pull it back out. This allows for more thorough penetration of wax into the chain, and keeps your hands (gloves!!!) away from the really hot wax. EDIT: You should also wax the quick link to ensure you have wax on the pins.
You can easily break the wax at each link by pulling the chain over a chain keeper , then flip the chain over and pull it across the chain keeper again. It's then a 10 second job instead of what Ashley showed when he went outside!
Been doing this for years. Minimal hassle and works great. Agree with other you should clean in between applications and use a coat hanger to drop it in for safety
Actually, the best method is (also doing for years)...put the chain coil on top of wax BEFORE heating wax, and chain just sinks once wax is melted. Coat hanger for removing chain is a must👍
I drip on my Squirt wax. However, a great hack is to submerse the wax bottle in a Sous Vide bucket. Place the bottle in the water and heat to about 130°F AND leave the bottle in the water for about an hour. This technique will significantly thin out the wax to a similar viscosity of immersion wax. This will then cause the wax to free flow deeply into the chain into the smallest tolerance parts of the chain parts. I used to simple heat in tap water but the prolonged immersion in heated water by a Sous Vide cooker works brilliantly! This achieves an almost identical result as removing and immersing your chain in wax BUT without all the work and effort!
@@TheOkinawaBoy Yes but what he says is true. Just stock Squirt is too thick to go in between all the links. This is what you want, to improve longevity and friction.
Do 3 chains at once. Use each one and top up with drip on wax. I remove after each after about 800km. I wax the chains twice a year. You barely wear the cassette doing this.
I recently went with dry lube in the hope of the chain picking up less dirt and getting away with slightly longer intervals. Lets be honest, drivetrain efficiency doesn't matter for us mortals but if I can go for one more ride without having to clean the drivetrain, that's a win, already.
It's not really the effeciency that should be the selling point, rather the reduction in wear on the chain. Even if it's only a doubling of the chain life that is huge. Also the reduced number of cassettes and chainrings that you need to replace. And the reduction in time spent cleaning as there is no mess!
@@mikesiemens4145 You sure have a point there, but I think it's only partially true and rather depends on your maintenance habit than the actual procedure. I don't think you'll grind away chains, even with oil of your regularly clean them and further on, as long as you replace your chains, let's say before 0,5 wear, cassette and chainrings won't get eaten - or do you really get double the life out of a waxed chain? My 105 chains last 5000k and that's before they are really badly stretched...
Efficiency is not just a measurement of performance but also life space. Waxed chains should last longer... we all like getting the best bang for our buck 🙌
Great instructional lesson on how to make your chain work better and last longer! I find it fascinating how an old technology has come back in the spotlight. I use modern chain waxes on my road bikes and my commuter bike (that chain is on internal 8 speed hub has more than 8000 km on it, still passes the chain gauge test). In my early days in cycling, in the last century when Moser, Rams and Bernaudeau were some of the primary contenders, waxing a chain was a mystical, magic process. We didn't have waxes specifically designed for chains. I just melted paraffin wax in a pot on the stove. A cyclist I knew melted his wax in an old coffee can on a gas stove. The gas flame burned through the bottom of the 'tin' can and the liquid wax extinguished the flame when it went everywhere. His wife saw the solidified wax covering everything said, "You will clean all that up, now. Not later, now!" He never waxed his chain again.
GREAT SERIES, practical tips, great videography, nice dose of humour. I have heard of people who rotate two or three chains, so actual downtime of the bike is just the time to remove the old one, fit the fresh one, with the re-waxing deferred to a convenient time (like a rainy weekend). All the best, Rob in Switzerland
I have 3 chains that I use on a rota system. That way, all I need to do is replace the chain with one thats ready to go then clean and re-wax that used chain when I have more time. Also, when the chain is off its a good idea to clean things like jockey wheels as the wax can sometimes build up in the cage when it flakes off. Its absolutely no good installing a new waxed chain when other components haven't been cleaned either.
Based on these valuable comments my go to process seems to be: buy a prewaxed chain to avoid the troubles with degreasing, apply drip wax in between hot wax steps, when necessary hotwaxing used waxed chain again, for this boil in hot water (cool the water and remove the wax before pouring water down the sink) then clean chain in den. alcohol mainly to remove water and hot wax again. My number one advantage is the clean chain, less wear and tear or resistance is a nice to have
Been doing this for years and I'm not sure why people make this so much more work than necessary. I also find waxing the chain in hot wax to be much less hassle than using the drip wax on each roller, waiting 4 hours and cleaning up the mess.
I use a sonic bath cleaner at 60 deg for ten min to clean out all the dirt in the chain, leave it to dry and then hot wax and go. Gleaming every time and if we have a group ride I can run everyones chains through while we drink coffee and we are all good to go again!
Some are fine being reused even if they're not specifically stated to be reusable. Some really don't work well after their first use though, so it's not a universal truth.
I use a spoke to agitate the chain in the wax. Then I can use the j-bend at the end to lift the chain out of the wax. Also, I wipe the excess wax off of the (outside of the) chain as soon as I take it out of the wax pot. Then I hang it over a doorknob to cool.
Silca's drip wax is actually one of the best out there (Squirt still gathers quite a lot of debry and is too thick to go into the links). As the developer says, it's great to use in COMBINATION with hot wax: 1. Hot wax 2. Little bit of drip wax after first ride 3. Re-drip as often as you think is necessary, but after about 750km-1000Km your probably want to re-HOT-wax again.
@@CanTURKeyed depends on riding conditions. Normally pooring boiling water on the chain should be sufficient. I will use some regular dish washing soap first and then poor over boiling water.
It's nice to see, that wax is so much cleaner than the lube, that you have to go outside from your garage to clean your chain from flakes and pollute your environment with it. And this flakes going to be everywhere on your bike too.
@GCN Tech - I am surprised you did not clean it first (more than the microfiber towel) I wax my chain, and I actually will soak it in a solvent for about an hour, then dry it off prior to putting into the wax bath ( I use an old crock pot) Once you start this process you will never go back to oily lube I love that I can ride and my drivetrain looks clean, and does not get all mucked up.
@@verbinnenben I use a solvent to clean it and remove old wax.. it still gets dirty.. I want it as clean as I can get it when I put it in my wax crockpot.. I do not want any dirt or material in the wax bath - its not to degrease it - it is just part of my cleaning process.
Nice video and presentation. This is my two cent comment on how I’d do this. I’d preferred to preheat the cleansed and dried chain in a toaster oven between 60~75*C first, then swiftly transfer it into a hot pot of molten wax before it gets a chance to cool down during transfer. Why preheat? To let trapped air in the joints to escape into ambient air and not blocked by molten wax around it. Why? Obstruction to trapped air in the joint occurs when we dip a cool chain into hot molten wax. This will allow air trap inside the joint. Why? We need to evaluate joint air to enable vacuum, low pressure, in the joint to pull wax into the joint. Normally only a fraction of joint air can escape when cool chain dip into molten wax. Hope this helps.
A few issues I see with this: 1. Threading some wire in the chain before putting it in the wax makes it a lot easier to remove when it’s done 2. Instead of articulating every link with your hands, you can just run it along some rounded thing to break it up easier. I use a small tree in my backyard. 3. I don’t see the need to wait for the film to appear on the wax, I would just pull it out as soon as you’re done. I’ve had great results that way. This video shows a sub par way to apply hot wax that’s more difficult, time consuming, and dirty than it needs to be (that freshly waxed chain could have been a lot cleaner).
@@Kuroneko6235 I usually put my chain on hard wax and let it melt in. I usually come back to it after a few hours. I’m not sure if this is the best way, but it fits my lifestyle well. As for cleaning, just rubbing it off with a rag works well for me.
I use a slow-cooker for waxing and have noticed that the Teflon powder sinks rather rapidly to the bottom. So I believe it’s worthwhile to agitate the wax with a wire as you add the chain. Otherwise, the first droplets than get sucked into the rollers by capillary action will not contain much of the friction reducing compound.
One thing that I do is drag the chain back and forth around an old broom handle to break most of that excess wax off before putting it back on the bike. Just a tip.
One point of caution, if your chain gets rained on, you don't have oil to repel it, it's much more important to dry your bike if you're running a waxed chain
The OG hot wax method I learned back in the early ‘90s was to mix paraffin (grocery store canning paraffin) with motor oil. You add different proportions of motor oil depending on what properties you want-higher proportion oil obvs is more water resistant, less oil is more dust tolerant.
My alternate method: uses Aluminum soft drink can [top cut off] plummers torch, parafin wax brick, small mchine shop brush [acid brush] and too lazy to remove chain. Place parafin in can and use torch to melt [home made wood handle to hold hot can]. Use acid brush to paint hot wax on chain and sprockets. Brush bristles force wax into chain. Done.
Why do you wax your sprockets? Also, research what happens to parrafin if you overheat it, besides catching on fire, it degrades it. And do you also hit your chain with the torch after painting on the wax? Because your chain doesn't care if you got it on the outside of the links, it's not helping anything there.
I'd wax the quicklinks also. I have a wider wax heater that allows me to, first, thread my chain onto a bent hanger (or a "swisher" tool) and then place that into the wax, swishing it all about until there's no more air bubbles. Then I simply thread the first link onto a nail in the wall it the chain slides out nice and easy.
rather than breaking each link by hand like Sebastian I run mine back and forth over the hinge on my wheelie bin from both sides. All links moving in about 30 seconds
The cycling community needs to start putting real pressure on chain manufacturers to start making reusable quicklinks. The cost and waste of single use products like these needs to stop.
hot wax immersion method, if you sit your chain rolled up on top of solid wax,the chain will heat up as wax melts.once you remove chain and cool ,if you have a car tow ball run chain back and forth to free up all rollers.or use a broom handle etc.
The chain should be threaded through a stiff wire before you lower it into the melted wax. You then use the wire as a swishing tool to swish the chain around and then get the chain out once done.
I use the Silca Super Secret drip on wax and put my chain in a plastic bag with enough in it to cover the chain. Then I essentially massage the chain in the bag to get the drip on to spread throughout the chain. Easier and faster than using hot wax.
@Sarosh Havewala I put it in a resealable bag so you can reuse but I always add a little more then mix it before I put another chain in. Especially if it has been in the bag for some time.
I use cande wax + parfin oil. Fof road bike. It works great : quiet, no junk on chain ring cassete and poolies. but after riding in the wet ,it stats squicking. What do you use? Does it handle better in wet?
I seriously would not want to be going through this palaver every week or 2 Just to save a few watts. I'll stick to with my all-purpose drip lube I think. Cleaned and relubed the chain yesterday, 10 minute or so job.
That's a good reason to have 3 chains in rotation so you only need to wax every 4-6 weeks, and get the added benefit of dramatically longer drivetrain life.
@@GCNalex Those are fair points and a good argument to wax the chain. I used to use a thick wet lube (not naming the manufacturer as I'm sure others are similar) and it just quickly clogged up my chain in a black gunk that was a pain to remove. I thought that was normal and just accepted it. My local bike shop reccomended and sold me a lighter all-round lube they had and it's made my life a lot easier. A quick clean every couple of weeks and it withstands the odd rain shower fine.
So when it comes to re-waxing a chain I have taken the process to another level to ensure that the chain is clean and doesn't contaminate the wax. I submerge the chain in boiling water, remove and wipe the surface clean with a cloth. Then I lay the chain down on an old white towel and using a steam cleaner hit every link with steam. You'd be surprised at how much dirty wax comes out of the links of that "clean" chain. Once dry it is now ready for a new waxing. I do this with 4-5 chains at a time so at most this is a monthly routine in the summer. PS Up until now I have only used a paraffin and paraffin oil mix, no PFAS. Check your brand of hot wax manufacturer's claims with regards to PFAS.
@Todd Newmarket MTB Well, you're asking for an opinion. For me, yes, as beyond cleaning the chain, I use it to remove wax from the chain rings and the cassette. I have a reputation in my club as having the shineiest drive train. And it's useful around the house too.
I made the mistake of letting the wax cool to the point of the skin forming on the surface before removing the chain. This leaves too much wax on the chain and will leave deposits on the rest of the drive train once you put it back on your bike.
I skip the flexing part since a stiff chain is so much easier to feed through the derailleur cage and then just fold straight back together with the front end to clip back together. Just spinning a few times over a bit of carboard and bam. Good to go.
I'm a beginner and always looking for info to look after my bike, Admittedly its an E-bike as i need it being 66 years old with a back issue i have been informed riding is a lower impact on the back than walking. So i am enjoy riding 40 kilometre's roads in Norway with an elevation from 0 metres to 112 metres above sea level where I start my rides everyday. I know now have to hopefully go a little faster. ha ha ha
3:27 - some really are one use only though, as you damage them when removing. You'll be OK if it's a turbo bike, but hard accelerations out on the road with high torque will snap them. You can buy reusable ones and they are usually cheaper than the name-brand versions.
@@mrhankbotful Cool. How many times have you reused them? I got one with a KMC chain a couple of years ago and it only survived 4 or 5 times. The cheap ones go longer than a couple of chain lifetimes!
Is the "let it cool for a bit for the skin to form" step at all needed? I believe Silca includes this step in their instructions, but I don't think I've seen Zero Friction Cycling do it. It seems like it would just put excess wax on the chain, for it to flake off or worse, to gunk up the drive train.
In my opinion, surface tension will keep the wax between the links. Wax is thicker than the oils we use on chains, so there's no reason to expect it to just run out if the wax is a few degrees too warm. They're likely thinking one of 2 things 1) It will stick even better if it's starting to get close to the temp where it firms up, but in my experience you're spot on that it just leaves a ton on the chain and makes no difference in how long it lasts where it matters, in the rollers/pins/links. 2) More likely: They know the crock pot, double boiler, or whatever other method is used to heat the wax will result in inconsistent temps from setup to setup, and they want to eliminate that variable by waiting for the skin to form, which should happen at a consistent temp as it's cooling back down.
Not sure why anyone would go through this hassle over just using squirt or some equivalent drip-on wax lube. It's mildly more expensive maybe. Wax is by far better than any oil/PTFE though. Simply because you never have to degrease/clean your chain the way you used to.
Totally clean hands, pants, and legs, and I have 3 chains in rotation on each of the 2 bikes I run waxed chains on, so I only have to wax about every 500 miles per bike. That's enough of a reason for me to put in a little work once a month or so rewaxing them all. Edited to add that after 2200 miles the cassette on my gravel bike is in excellent condition, and my chains have tons of wear left in them. I'm expecting to get 10,000 miles or more before having to change anything out, which isn't bad for a heavy rider on an 11 speed drivetrain.
@@klnsmn wash them when I wash my bike with soap and water. No greasy oily mess means nothing special is needed to get it all clean. If your chain has any sort of plating on the side plates there isn't much to worry about in terms of rust. Just spin the cranks and blow everything off with a leaf blower if you have one, or just give it a quick wipe and let it air dry if you don't.
There have been a couple of mentions, even a video on GCN about waxed chain during the years, but the conclusion used to be like, yeah, it's not bad, but I will stay on drip lube. Now, since Silca (has chain wax) is the sponsor and Muc-Off (doesn't have chain wax) is not anymore, suddenly the waxed chain is the greatest thing, and everyone in their right mind should wax their chain. I might see a correlation here...
Yes, but will only last around 8 to 10hours. When really wet half of that time. I started using it on our Emtb tandem that was eating chains and cassettes. At least triple lifetime. Now I do it on all my bikes. I use 3 cheap chains, one cassette and 0.5 of my chain wheel before worn over 0.5%. Important you clean with hot water; dry an rehotwax your chain after every wet ride.
I always thought “waxing my chain” was a euphemism. Turns out I was right, although it wasn’t a euphemism for what I thought it was, turns out it means pouncing about for hours with your chain instead of just using lube.
I missed this in the video - why not rub the chain with a cloth or paper towels after soaking to remove the wax coating? Does the flaking off wax while riding get into other parts of the drivetrain?
Is the wax suitable for more wet climates? I've got dry wax for my bike but that was a mistake as I live in such a foggy/rainy climate... Thanks for the video! Makes me really want to try this.
I have successfully used it on wet weather too. And also cold weather at winter, but it won't last so long also chain can get rusty easier at winter when they salt roads. I don't know, if my method is right, but I cool the bowl with wax from bottom with chain. I believe that this way I can get more wax inside of chain, because wax shrink when cools so if the bowl is cooled with cold water the chain in bottom of bowl also cools faster than wax and draw more wax betwen links. Many people seems think, that I'm stupid for doing that, but because I believe into it I keep doing it that way. Stir the chain inside wax while it's cooling so that it would not get too hard and.. To me it seems that I can ride longer on wet weather before I need to rewax than I could without cooling the wax bowl in cold water with chain from below.
The drip wax still results in a black and flakey chain for me after 500-750 miles. Hot waxed and then dripped SS every 100 miles. Started with clean and clear/white flakes after hot wax and slightly dark wax after a few drip applications. Going hot wax again and see what happens. Hopefully clear/white again. Open to any advise. Chain was thoroughly cleaned prior to hot wax
Rather than hanging the chain up to set, I dip mine in a bowl of cold water. The wax sets instantly. In my mind, I imagine this traps more wax in the rollers that would have bleed out whilst still wet. ✌️🚀
I’m a believer in capillary action and surface tension even in hot liquid wax, so I don’t believe there is any need to let the wax cool before removing the chain from the wax bath. It may increase one’s chance of getting scalded, but much less wax gets wasted as flakes. My chains have perforated side plates and hollow pins, and the wax would leave those voids before leaving the inside of the chain, which it doesn’t.
@@jamesrosar3823 I find the wax clears pins and side plates as I lift it out a give it a min for the excess to drip off. That way I don't make a mess moving the chain around. I can get around 550km before needing to be reapplied, it's an I'm provement on 300 before I cold dip. So wax is saved that way. Any flakes I put back in the pot.
@Peter Steadman, I am referring not to the wax on the outer surfaces, but that the wax between plates and bushings that will not run out even when the wax is warm enough for full penetration. If the wax film continues to web across the perforations in the side plates, it won't escape the chain itself.
@@jamesrosar3823 as long as its not excessive, I don't mind that. It beds in after a few turns of the crank. Anything that prevents metal on metal action will prevent wear. Keeps it quiet too. Probably the best argument for oil. But it doesn't stay clean long enough. Have a great evening dude 👍
Silly. You put the dirt into your crock pot. Boiling water in a sifter to remove dirt. I like to swish with alcohol to make sure all the water is out. Then dunk. This comment ad brought to you by Silca
As a user of Shimano 105 and Ultegra, 10 gear cassette, with matching chains; which quick release device should I use on the chain and suggestions where to buy them? Thanks!
pro tip: leave the chain in with the wax as it warms up. then you don not need to worry about the skin forming or it reaching the correct temperature. just swish it around for 30s after it is fully melted and then hang it. easy peasy
Do you not need to clean the. Haon more thoroughly before rewaxing? The microfibre cloth wipe feels like there could still be gunk/mud etc in the chain. That then is going to go into your wax pot, who h you will let cool and use agaon next time??? Watching your waxing and cleaning vids, looking to convert to waxing, but want to get my head fully around this all first!!!!
Nice video! But if i do not have a wax heater, can i use two cooking pott, one bigger to boil water and a smaller one, which i can put into the bigger one, to heat the wax?
I degrease the chain by shaking it in a plastic bottle, wipe off , drop in crockpot and it’s good for 300 miles at least, done it for over 30 years ,remember it’s a bicycle chain, not a component in a space shuttle 👌🏻
I stopped using wax, it just doesn’t protect the chain in wet conditions. Went back to wet lube last longer and smoother gear shifting with my mechanical Groupset 😊 yes it’s marginally dirtier but no rust and smoother than wax which just melts away.
What do you do about linking a freshly waxed chain; do you put on a "dry" quick link, do you put on some drip wax on the quick link, is each side of the quick link waxed in place with the chain?
Hope you guys mention that Shimano quick links are rated for ONE USE ONLY by the manufacturer. Every time you remove the chain to wax it you should technically be replacing the quick link and those things aren't cheap!
Any though on the Wenn rub-on soft wax. I’ve been using it four a couple of years, but I could also be destroying my drive train. Used primarily in a garage on a trainer.
Hi Team ~ Waxing my chain ... i waxed my chain for the first time, as you say in your video to remove it from the Croc Pot and let it cool down, it will then be stiff like plastic ~ why not refit it without loosening it as movement will loosen as you go >>> take care
I must be doing something wrong. I'm roughly 1k km on my chain and it's at .75 wear, so basically at the point of replacement already. It's a Shimano original 11s. I've used spirit to do the initial stripping and then applied a widely available drip-on wax and generously reapplied it every 250km or so. I might've used to little after the initial stripping though... I know there's little to conclude or say from this, I just hope next chain will be better.
so with the wax that can be applied like lube, you dont need to degrease them at all? i t hought there would still be some dirt on the chain, might not be a big dirt, but a fine one. or at least with aceton or white spirits?
Was a huge fan of waxing using Squirt lube. Never had a cleaner chain. Only downside was doing this in winter and having to reapply twice a week on a 14 mile round trip commute. Also the slightest bit of rain and my chain would go into rust mode. Was I applying it wrong hmm.
@@jamesrosar3823 ZFC made racist comments about Hambini so doesnt deserve any discussion here. PLUS his website is full of mistakes. He doesnt even measure power correctly and ignores the chain deflection issues that waxing is exposed to nor does he replicate REAL WORLD riding forces and angles that a normal cyclist uses. He is just a marketing goon IMO. No formal background in engineering etc unlike Hambini who he tried to roast.
@@durianriders; Please supply the evidence of what you consider to be the offensive comment. Also, bicycle chain wear testing was much less sophisticated before ZFC; so who is presently doing testing to the standards you are suggesting? And finally, what does “cancel culture”mean to you, sir?
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How often do you re-wax your chain? 🚴
200km, I can’t figure out when it’s time, the chain doesn’t look oiled (it shines like it’s been degreased), and after the rain it’s generally rusted, although I only welded it in wax. I use hg601 and silca hot wax
First time today! It started to sound a bit rattly so re-waxed it. Evidently I rode 81km, 3 rides, all in the wet, mostly forestry gravel roads on an MTB.
about, 300-350km. I have not changed that approach in the wet (I do not ride on salted roads, just wet roads). I did once listen to the chain and changes, for an increase in noise, and waited till 450km before I heard more noise, so I stay way under that as my rule. However, I have 3 chains on the go, so use the hot wax method, once every 900-1050km.
I use boiling water on the chain to clean off the bits before waxing. I have never had rust show! It stays much cleaner. One chain has 10,500km at present and is measuring 0.3% wear.
I go 150-200 miles between waxing. Crazy hot tap water rinse, blow dry, hang for a half day to finish drying out, wax in my ultrasonic cleaner using the degas setting. I have my wax in a large glass baking dish that I float in the ultrasonic cleaner, double boiler style.
Blow off with heat gun set to about 250°F as I pull it out of the wax to minimize how much gets stuck in corners and clings on the outer plates. Once cool, roll the chain over a bar to break free the links.
Why not wax with your quick link in place and locked? I always do, assuming it needs to be lubed like every other link does. Never had a problem from it.
I pour boiling water onto the dirty chain in an old washing up bowl, between waxing, to remove all the old wax and any dirt, then clean it with a microfibre cloth. It's also easier to drop the chain in wax if you thread it onto a bent coathanger, folded over several times. Chain replacement times seem to be significantly extended after 2 years of waxing, and cleaning the bike takes 5 minutes as there is no oil
Certainly seems like GCN forgot about that stage.. ALWAYS clean your "dirty chain" with boiling hot water and letting it dry off before rewaxing. As to using like an old hanger, not possible if you are using a small leg waxing unit like what was used in this video.
You wouldn't happen to guesstimate the mileage/kilometer increase would you?
@@atlantaswelder it's more than twice compared to oil. I tried drip on wax and was not impressed: I cleaned my chain in denatured alcohol after about 4000km and found many metal particles with a magnet. Hot wax chains are good for 8000 km at least. In fact, some people claim around 15k but I haven't had the chance to ride that much yet. I currently rotate between 3 chains and wax them together when all 3 are done
@@atlantaswelder I've been hot waxing my chains for a very long time (currently use the Silca stuff). I ride around 10.000km/year, and re-wax my chain every 500km. My chains last between 20-25.000km before my ParkTool chain stretch tool indicates I need to change the chain. I'm using Shimano HG601 chains. One of my newer bikes has a SRAM flattop chain, which I've also hot waxed. It's currently at around 12.000km and doesn't show any sign of needing replacement. I only ride in dry conditions. One negative thing about waxed chains is if you often ride in wet conditions. Wax is >not< very good in that case. The chain will start to squeak after merely 100km and you'll need to dry the chain after every ride to keep it from corroding/rusting.
Is residual water a problem, i.e. do you have to let it dry before putting it into the wax after the initial cleaning?
After removing the chain I always clean it first in an old plastic bottle filled with degreaser. Shake well and leave for half an hour. You would be amazed at how dirty the degreaser gets. Then dry and apply wax.
Thanks Andy..I am a convert ! No mess after every ride , and longer life to the drive train ! After the initial cleaning , it was easy .
Pro-Tip: Shift to the small cog at the outset so you know where to thread the chain at the end. On 1x drive trains this is mandatory, or your derailleur can crash into the cassette when the quick link is opened.
Pro-Tip #2: Triple check the routing of the chain around the annoying little tab on the lower cage of your derailleur. Hot waxing dramatically increases the number of opportunities to get this wrong.
I've gone over the derailleur tab twice already. Facepalm every time. :(
@@undreamingkc Count me in that group too!
Connex quick link !, no tool needed and lasts for ages!! I can't believe GCN have never mentioned it? they make waxing chains so easy !
So, yes, you can use this method, but if you use a 1L crock pot/ slow cooker, you can thread the chain onto a wire hanger around every 6th link, and simply lower it into the wax, swish it around and let it sit for a bit. Wait a few minutes and pull it back out. This allows for more thorough penetration of wax into the chain, and keeps your hands (gloves!!!) away from the really hot wax. EDIT: You should also wax the quick link to ensure you have wax on the pins.
You can easily break the wax at each link by pulling the chain over a chain keeper , then flip the chain over and pull it across the chain keeper again. It's then a 10 second job instead of what Ashley showed when he went outside!
Actually never thought of the chain keep approach. I run mine over a 3/4 inch dowel rod. Will have to try your way next time.
@@justsomedude7556what is best?
@helvettefaensatan I will stick with the dowel rod,
Been doing this for years. Minimal hassle and works great. Agree with other you should clean in between applications and use a coat hanger to drop it in for safety
Thanks for the watching Aaron! Cleaning is a great idea, super cool to hear that you've been using waxed chains for a while 🙌
Actually, the best method is (also doing for years)...put the chain coil on top of wax BEFORE heating wax, and chain just sinks once wax is melted. Coat hanger for removing chain is a must👍
I drip on my Squirt wax. However, a great hack is to submerse the wax bottle in a Sous Vide bucket. Place the bottle in the water and heat to about 130°F AND leave the bottle in the water for about an hour. This technique will significantly thin out the wax to a similar viscosity of immersion wax. This will then cause the wax to free flow deeply into the chain into the smallest tolerance parts of the chain parts. I used to simple heat in tap water but the prolonged immersion in heated water by a Sous Vide cooker works brilliantly! This achieves an almost identical result as removing and immersing your chain in wax BUT without all the work and effort!
This is a great idea, thanks for sharing
I just drip Squirt wax on each link every 200 km. No problems
@@TheOkinawaBoy Yes but what he says is true. Just stock Squirt is too thick to go in between all the links. This is what you want, to improve longevity and friction.
@@verbinnenben And squirt is extremly sticky..
Keep it up Alex. Love your sense of humor
Do 3 chains at once. Use each one and top up with drip on wax. I remove after each after about 800km. I wax the chains twice a year. You barely wear the cassette doing this.
Very useful video Alex! I appreciate knowing that with the Silca drip on wax I can get away with a 4 hr wait rather than wait overnight. 😊
Drip on is better for topping up after rain. Best performance will come from doing it the long way
Do you prefer drip on to fully immersive waxing?
@@kart182 you can also dip into drip wax. Kinda meets in the middle with penetration
With a hot wax you can be riding shortly after waxing chain!
I recently went with dry lube in the hope of the chain picking up less dirt and getting away with slightly longer intervals. Lets be honest, drivetrain efficiency doesn't matter for us mortals but if I can go for one more ride without having to clean the drivetrain, that's a win, already.
It's not really the effeciency that should be the selling point, rather the reduction in wear on the chain. Even if it's only a doubling of the chain life that is huge. Also the reduced number of cassettes and chainrings that you need to replace. And the reduction in time spent cleaning as there is no mess!
@@mikesiemens4145 You sure have a point there, but I think it's only partially true and rather depends on your maintenance habit than the actual procedure. I don't think you'll grind away chains, even with oil of your regularly clean them and further on, as long as you replace your chains, let's say before 0,5 wear, cassette and chainrings won't get eaten - or do you really get double the life out of a waxed chain? My 105 chains last 5000k and that's before they are really badly stretched...
Efficiency is not just a measurement of performance but also life space. Waxed chains should last longer... we all like getting the best bang for our buck 🙌
Mere mortals, lol! It sure does matter. Wax is the ONLY lube for any road bike 110% of the time for 90% of riders!
@@gottagetaname Ollie Bridgewood dark account, mate?
Great instructional lesson on how to make your chain work better and last longer! I find it fascinating how an old technology has come back in the spotlight. I use modern chain waxes on my road bikes and my commuter bike (that chain is on internal 8 speed hub has more than 8000 km on it, still passes the chain gauge test). In my early days in cycling, in the last century when Moser, Rams and Bernaudeau were some of the primary contenders, waxing a chain was a mystical, magic process. We didn't have waxes specifically designed for chains. I just melted paraffin wax in a pot on the stove. A cyclist I knew melted his wax in an old coffee can on a gas stove. The gas flame burned through the bottom of the 'tin' can and the liquid wax extinguished the flame when it went everywhere. His wife saw the solidified wax covering everything said, "You will clean all that up, now. Not later, now!" He never waxed his chain again.
We're glad we can bring waxed chain to the masses! Do you think this is the way forward? Sounds like you've got some great life out of your chain 🙌
i prepare waxes (by temp grade) in old oven pan with propane torch and no problem
GREAT SERIES, practical tips, great videography, nice dose of humour. I have heard of people who rotate two or three chains, so actual downtime of the bike is just the time to remove the old one, fit the fresh one, with the re-waxing deferred to a convenient time (like a rainy weekend). All the best, Rob in Switzerland
I have 3 chains that I use on a rota system. That way, all I need to do is replace the chain with one thats ready to go then clean and re-wax that used chain when I have more time. Also, when the chain is off its a good idea to clean things like jockey wheels as the wax can sometimes build up in the cage when it flakes off. Its absolutely no good installing a new waxed chain when other components haven't been cleaned either.
Based on these valuable comments my go to process seems to be: buy a prewaxed chain to avoid the troubles with degreasing, apply drip wax in between hot wax steps, when necessary hotwaxing used waxed chain again, for this boil in hot water (cool the water and remove the wax before pouring water down the sink) then clean chain in den. alcohol mainly to remove water and hot wax again.
My number one advantage is the clean chain, less wear and tear or resistance is a nice to have
Been doing this for years and I'm not sure why people make this so much more work than necessary. I also find waxing the chain in hot wax to be much less hassle than using the drip wax on each roller, waiting 4 hours and cleaning up the mess.
i need 6 minutes to hot wax on bike:th-cam.com/video/ORA6xFPTZXU/w-d-xo.html
Finally a brand new topic from GCN...waxing chain...never heard on your channel....
I use a sonic bath cleaner at 60 deg for ten min to clean out all the dirt in the chain, leave it to dry and then hot wax and go. Gleaming every time and if we have a group ride I can run everyones chains through while we drink coffee and we are all good to go again!
What?😂
I've used my quick link for the entire life of the chain 😳
Yeah I never have problem with reused quick-links - even on my mtb shredding!
Some are fine being reused even if they're not specifically stated to be reusable.
Some really don't work well after their first use though, so it's not a universal truth.
Which brand of quick link is it though?
@@ToddNZMTB shimano
Was it a quick link that comes with the chain?
I use a spoke to agitate the chain in the wax. Then I can use the j-bend at the end to lift the chain out of the wax. Also, I wipe the excess wax off of the (outside of the) chain as soon as I take it out of the wax pot. Then I hang it over a doorknob to cool.
4:20 watching the chain go into the wax was like watching the end of terminator 2
I am glad to know I don't need to do the full clean again between waxings
Silca's drip wax is actually one of the best out there (Squirt still gathers quite a lot of debry and is too thick to go into the links). As the developer says, it's great to use in COMBINATION with hot wax:
1. Hot wax
2. Little bit of drip wax after first ride
3. Re-drip as often as you think is necessary, but after about 750km-1000Km your probably want to re-HOT-wax again.
before hot wax again after 1000 km any cleaning needed? (for drip wax)
@@CanTURKeyed depends on riding conditions. Normally pooring boiling water on the chain should be sufficient. I will use some regular dish washing soap first and then poor over boiling water.
Before rewaxing, I like to boil my chain to clean it. I dry it off in methanol before dunking it into the fresh, waxen spa.
Wow. Never play a GCN drinking game involving the phrase "Wax your chain", you'll be in hospital in no time.
Hahaha sorry about that... sounds like a heavy night 😵💫
It's nice to see, that wax is so much cleaner than the lube, that you have to go outside from your garage to clean your chain from flakes and pollute your environment with it. And this flakes going to be everywhere on your bike too.
I use a cheap chip brush and just brush my bike off. After a few rides, the chain doesn't shed any more wax flakes and the bike/wheels remain clean.
This is why I'd never add teflon to my wax and I do this initial 'clean' or breaking-in over newspaper in the garage.
"Standing there wishing you had planned ahead." Story of my life
@GCN Tech - I am surprised you did not clean it first (more than the microfiber towel) I wax my chain, and I actually will soak it in a solvent for about an hour, then dry it off prior to putting into the wax bath ( I use an old crock pot) Once you start this process you will never go back to oily lube I love that I can ride and my drivetrain looks clean, and does not get all mucked up.
Bro the title clearly says "How to Re-Wax your chain"
@@verbinnenben Bro your response makes zero sense.. I am talking about how to re-wax my chain...
@@chrisholstein7587 you shouldn't need to put your chain in solvent before every re-hot wax is what I'm saying then.
@@verbinnenben I use a solvent to clean it and remove old wax.. it still gets dirty.. I want it as clean as I can get it when I put it in my wax crockpot.. I do not want any dirt or material in the wax bath - its not to degrease it - it is just part of my cleaning process.
@@chrisholstein7587 oh okay, I understand now. What solvent you use? Methylated spirit?
Nice video and presentation. This is my two cent comment on how I’d do this.
I’d preferred to preheat the cleansed and dried chain in a toaster oven between 60~75*C first, then swiftly transfer it into a hot pot of molten wax before it gets a chance to cool down during transfer.
Why preheat?
To let trapped air in the joints to escape into ambient air and not blocked by molten wax around it.
Why? Obstruction to trapped air in the joint occurs when we dip a cool chain into hot molten wax. This will allow air trap inside the joint.
Why? We need to evaluate joint air to enable vacuum, low pressure, in the joint to pull wax into the joint. Normally only a fraction of joint air can escape when cool chain dip into molten wax.
Hope this helps.
A few issues I see with this:
1. Threading some wire in the chain before putting it in the wax makes it a lot easier to remove when it’s done
2. Instead of articulating every link with your hands, you can just run it along some rounded thing to break it up easier. I use a small tree in my backyard.
3. I don’t see the need to wait for the film to appear on the wax, I would just pull it out as soon as you’re done. I’ve had great results that way.
This video shows a sub par way to apply hot wax that’s more difficult, time consuming, and dirty than it needs to be (that freshly waxed chain could have been a lot cleaner).
waiting for the film to form on the wax is only recommended if you sell wax, as you will just get a thicker layer that needs to be flaked off.
How can i get a cleaner waxed chain(?)
Is that can be done with pulling the chain out straight after dipping?
@@Kuroneko6235 I usually put my chain on hard wax and let it melt in. I usually come back to it after a few hours. I’m not sure if this is the best way, but it fits my lifestyle well.
As for cleaning, just rubbing it off with a rag works well for me.
Rewax, Don't goo it
When you want to go to it
Rewax, don't goo it
When you want to ride
I use a slow-cooker for waxing and have noticed that the Teflon powder sinks rather rapidly to the bottom. So I believe it’s worthwhile to agitate the wax with a wire as you add the chain. Otherwise, the first droplets than get sucked into the rollers by capillary action will not contain much of the friction reducing compound.
One thing that I do is drag the chain back and forth around an old broom handle to break most of that excess wax off before putting it back on the bike. Just a tip.
Most of us use a hybrid method, full hot wax, use liquid wax every 125-250 miles and then full relax 1000 miles. Especially good gravel riders
That seems to be a common method and a very effective one too
One point of caution, if your chain gets rained on, you don't have oil to repel it, it's much more important to dry your bike if you're running a waxed chain
Great point Steven! Ollie took as through the pros and cons of all the main lube types in this video 👉th-cam.com/video/RXJZ0WOr3SE/w-d-xo.html
The OG hot wax method I learned back in the early ‘90s was to mix paraffin (grocery store canning paraffin) with motor oil. You add different proportions of motor oil depending on what properties you want-higher proportion oil obvs is more water resistant, less oil is more dust tolerant.
I use a little french fries basket to lift the cgain in and out. Sooooo easy
My alternate method: uses Aluminum soft drink can [top cut off] plummers torch, parafin wax brick, small mchine shop brush [acid brush] and too lazy to remove chain. Place parafin in can and use torch to melt [home made wood handle to hold hot can]. Use acid brush to paint hot wax on chain and sprockets. Brush bristles force wax into chain. Done.
Why do you wax your sprockets? Also, research what happens to parrafin if you overheat it, besides catching on fire, it degrades it.
And do you also hit your chain with the torch after painting on the wax? Because your chain doesn't care if you got it on the outside of the links, it's not helping anything there.
I'd wax the quicklinks also. I have a wider wax heater that allows me to, first, thread my chain onto a bent hanger (or a "swisher" tool) and then place that into the wax, swishing it all about until there's no more air bubbles. Then I simply thread the first link onto a nail in the wall it the chain slides out nice and easy.
rather than breaking each link by hand like Sebastian I run mine back and forth over the hinge on my wheelie bin from both sides. All links moving in about 30 seconds
Hi, please can you confirm your wheelie bin will be available for everyone to use? 😂
Helpful 👍it's normal for the chain to skip and slip a bit for the first 2km then it comes good.
push together the quick link plates when remove with the tool. It releases much more easily, and you may use it even more times.
I remove my old wax by washing the chain in boiling water
holly cow!
This was the info I was looking for when I watched this video. Thank you.
Doesn’t even need to be boiling. Hot tap water in a bucket with dish detergent. Rinse a couple times with clear hot water to remove the soap.
I just wipe it with rubbing alcohol and throw it in the wax
@@GHinWI you dont even need hot water if you use degreaser
The cycling community needs to start putting real pressure on chain manufacturers to start making reusable quicklinks. The cost and waste of single use products like these needs to stop.
KMC makes reusable links.
@@mrhankbotful I didn't know that. Thanks for the heads up! They should be promoted here as well.
hot wax immersion method, if you sit your chain rolled up on top of solid wax,the chain will heat up as wax melts.once you remove chain and cool ,if you have a car tow ball run chain back and forth to free up all rollers.or use a broom handle etc.
The chain should be threaded through a stiff wire before you lower it into the melted wax. You then use the wire as a swishing tool to swish the chain around and then get the chain out once done.
i used an old spoke as a hanger and pick.
Ultrasonic cleaner for the win! Then a quick rinse and right into the rice cooker full of wax. Plug it in an forget about it!
I use the Silca Super Secret drip on wax and put my chain in a plastic bag with enough in it to cover the chain. Then I essentially massage the chain in the bag to get the drip on to spread throughout the chain. Easier and faster than using hot wax.
That's a good idea. Can you reuse the drip on wax in the bag or do you pour in new fresh amount each time?
@Sarosh Havewala I put it in a resealable bag so you can reuse but I always add a little more then mix it before I put another chain in. Especially if it has been in the bag for some time.
If you sous vide that bag it’ll work even better
I use cande wax + parfin oil. Fof road bike.
It works great : quiet, no junk on chain ring cassete and poolies.
but after riding in the wet ,it stats squicking.
What do you use?
Does it handle better in wet?
I seriously would not want to be going through this palaver every week or 2 Just to save a few watts. I'll stick to with my all-purpose drip lube I think. Cleaned and relubed the chain yesterday, 10 minute or so job.
Thats fair enough, everyone has their preference, whats your thoughts on longevity or chain cleanliness?
That's a good reason to have 3 chains in rotation so you only need to wax every 4-6 weeks, and get the added benefit of dramatically longer drivetrain life.
@@GCNalex Those are fair points and a good argument to wax the chain. I used to use a thick wet lube (not naming the manufacturer as I'm sure others are similar) and it just quickly clogged up my chain in a black gunk that was a pain to remove. I thought that was normal and just accepted it. My local bike shop reccomended and sold me a lighter all-round lube they had and it's made my life a lot easier. A quick clean every couple of weeks and it withstands the odd rain shower fine.
yes it is easier but my chain can live 10x longer than on oil, and no dirty hands wheel.....
So when it comes to re-waxing a chain I have taken the process to another level to ensure that the chain is clean and doesn't contaminate the wax. I submerge the chain in boiling water, remove and wipe the surface clean with a cloth. Then I lay the chain down on an old white towel and using a steam cleaner hit every link with steam. You'd be surprised at how much dirty wax comes out of the links of that "clean" chain. Once dry it is now ready for a new waxing. I do this with 4-5 chains at a time so at most this is a monthly routine in the summer. PS Up until now I have only used a paraffin and paraffin oil mix, no PFAS. Check your brand of hot wax manufacturer's claims with regards to PFAS.
I'm very curious about the steam cleaner, they are cheap to buy but are they worth it?
@Todd Newmarket MTB Well, you're asking for an opinion. For me, yes, as beyond cleaning the chain, I use it to remove wax from the chain rings and the cassette. I have a reputation in my club as having the shineiest drive train. And it's useful around the house too.
I found it important to bed on the larger cogs of the cassette because wax got into the 11T cog and made the chain skip.
I made the mistake of letting the wax cool to the point of the skin forming on the surface before removing the chain. This leaves too much wax on the chain and will leave deposits on the rest of the drive train once you put it back on your bike.
This is brilliant! Thank you.
Allenkeys are good hooks.
I skip the flexing part since a stiff chain is so much easier to feed through the derailleur cage and then just fold straight back together with the front end to clip back together. Just spinning a few times over a bit of carboard and bam. Good to go.
I'm a beginner and always looking for info to look after my bike, Admittedly its an E-bike as i need it being 66 years old with a back issue i have been informed riding is a lower impact on the back than walking. So i am enjoy riding 40 kilometre's roads in Norway with an elevation from 0 metres to 112 metres above sea level where I start my rides everyday. I know now have to hopefully go a little faster. ha ha ha
3:27 - some really are one use only though, as you damage them when removing. You'll be OK if it's a turbo bike, but hard accelerations out on the road with high torque will snap them. You can buy reusable ones and they are usually cheaper than the name-brand versions.
KMC has reusable links, and they're a name brand. I've yet to have one break on me, and I'm a 245lb rider.
@@mrhankbotful Cool. How many times have you reused them? I got one with a KMC chain a couple of years ago and it only survived 4 or 5 times. The cheap ones go longer than a couple of chain lifetimes!
Is the "let it cool for a bit for the skin to form" step at all needed? I believe Silca includes this step in their instructions, but I don't think I've seen Zero Friction Cycling do it. It seems like it would just put excess wax on the chain, for it to flake off or worse, to gunk up the drive train.
In my opinion, surface tension will keep the wax between the links. Wax is thicker than the oils we use on chains, so there's no reason to expect it to just run out if the wax is a few degrees too warm.
They're likely thinking one of 2 things
1) It will stick even better if it's starting to get close to the temp where it firms up, but in my experience you're spot on that it just leaves a ton on the chain and makes no difference in how long it lasts where it matters, in the rollers/pins/links.
2) More likely: They know the crock pot, double boiler, or whatever other method is used to heat the wax will result in inconsistent temps from setup to setup, and they want to eliminate that variable by waiting for the skin to form, which should happen at a consistent temp as it's cooling back down.
They can sell more product if you waste more 😅
Indeed zfc confirmed in the comments to another gcn video that letting it cool is only a waste of wax and time.
Not sure why anyone would go through this hassle over just using squirt or some equivalent drip-on wax lube. It's mildly more expensive maybe.
Wax is by far better than any oil/PTFE though. Simply because you never have to degrease/clean your chain the way you used to.
Totally clean hands, pants, and legs, and I have 3 chains in rotation on each of the 2 bikes I run waxed chains on, so I only have to wax about every 500 miles per bike. That's enough of a reason for me to put in a little work once a month or so rewaxing them all.
Edited to add that after 2200 miles the cassette on my gravel bike is in excellent condition, and my chains have tons of wear left in them. I'm expecting to get 10,000 miles or more before having to change anything out, which isn't bad for a heavy rider on an 11 speed drivetrain.
@@mrhankbotful how do you go about cleaning the derailleur and cassette? I find those still get quite dirty
@@klnsmn wash them when I wash my bike with soap and water. No greasy oily mess means nothing special is needed to get it all clean.
If your chain has any sort of plating on the side plates there isn't much to worry about in terms of rust. Just spin the cranks and blow everything off with a leaf blower if you have one, or just give it a quick wipe and let it air dry if you don't.
@@mrhankbotful But drip on wax lube does the exact same thing.
@@petef15 I find drip on doesn't last as long, stay as clean, or extend my drivetrain life any.
re: loosen chain links. find a railing and pull the chain over/back round the railing with a towel between railing and chain.
There have been a couple of mentions, even a video on GCN about waxed chain during the years, but the conclusion used to be like, yeah, it's not bad, but I will stay on drip lube.
Now, since Silca (has chain wax) is the sponsor and Muc-Off (doesn't have chain wax) is not anymore, suddenly the waxed chain is the greatest thing, and everyone in their right mind should wax their chain.
I might see a correlation here...
Muc-Off is the worst lube ever made as well. I use drip wax
This is a Silca ad 😅
All the camera angles concealed the muc off logos in the workshop, even the microfibre cloth logos were hidden.
I used canndle wax, doin just fine for 150miles
I use bungee cords, great for dipping it in the wax and hanging up
Can wax also be used for mountainbikes?
Yes, but will only last around 8 to 10hours. When really wet half of that time. I started using it on our Emtb tandem that was eating chains and cassettes. At least triple lifetime. Now I do it on all my bikes. I use 3 cheap chains, one cassette and 0.5 of my chain wheel before worn over 0.5%. Important you clean with hot water; dry an rehotwax your chain after every wet ride.
I always thought “waxing my chain” was a euphemism. Turns out I was right, although it wasn’t a euphemism for what I thought it was, turns out it means pouncing about for hours with your chain instead of just using lube.
no, 6 minutes to make 1 wax pass:th-cam.com/video/ORA6xFPTZXU/w-d-xo.html
You also have to change the master Link as per manufacture recommendation
I missed this in the video - why not rub the chain with a cloth or paper towels after soaking to remove the wax coating? Does the flaking off wax while riding get into other parts of the drivetrain?
In my opinion the Keramik Wax from Finish Line is the best.
Is the wax suitable for more wet climates? I've got dry wax for my bike but that was a mistake as I live in such a foggy/rainy climate... Thanks for the video! Makes me really want to try this.
I have successfully used it on wet weather too. And also cold weather at winter, but it won't last so long also chain can get rusty easier at winter when they salt roads. I don't know, if my method is right, but I cool the bowl with wax from bottom with chain. I believe that this way I can get more wax inside of chain, because wax shrink when cools so if the bowl is cooled with cold water the chain in bottom of bowl also cools faster than wax and draw more wax betwen links. Many people seems think, that I'm stupid for doing that, but because I believe into it I keep doing it that way. Stir the chain inside wax while it's cooling so that it would not get too hard and.. To me it seems that I can ride longer on wet weather before I need to rewax than I could without cooling the wax bowl in cold water with chain from below.
I never knew that before, I just put the chain on as goes either way round
I use squirt wax, what should I do after a wet ride?
The drip wax still results in a black and flakey chain for me after 500-750 miles. Hot waxed and then dripped SS every 100 miles. Started with clean and clear/white flakes after hot wax and slightly dark wax after a few drip applications. Going hot wax again and see what happens. Hopefully clear/white again. Open to any advise. Chain was thoroughly cleaned prior to hot wax
Rather than hanging the chain up to set, I dip mine in a bowl of cold water. The wax sets instantly. In my mind, I imagine this traps more wax in the rollers that would have bleed out whilst still wet. ✌️🚀
I’m a believer in capillary action and surface tension even in hot liquid wax, so I don’t believe there is any need to let the wax cool before removing the chain from the wax bath. It may increase one’s chance of getting scalded, but much less wax gets wasted as flakes. My chains have perforated side plates and hollow pins, and the wax would leave those voids before leaving the inside of the chain, which it doesn’t.
@@jamesrosar3823 I find the wax clears pins and side plates as I lift it out a give it a min for the excess to drip off. That way I don't make a mess moving the chain around. I can get around 550km before needing to be reapplied, it's an I'm provement on 300 before I cold dip. So wax is saved that way. Any flakes I put back in the pot.
@Peter Steadman, I am referring not to the wax on the outer surfaces, but that the wax between plates and bushings that will not run out even when the wax is warm enough for full penetration. If the wax film continues to web across the perforations in the side plates, it won't escape the chain itself.
@@jamesrosar3823 as long as its not excessive, I don't mind that. It beds in after a few turns of the crank. Anything that prevents metal on metal action will prevent wear. Keeps it quiet too. Probably the best argument for oil. But it doesn't stay clean long enough. Have a great evening dude 👍
Silly. You put the dirt into your crock pot. Boiling water in a sifter to remove dirt. I like to swish with alcohol to make sure all the water is out. Then dunk.
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As a user of Shimano 105 and Ultegra, 10 gear cassette, with matching chains; which quick release device should I use on the chain and suggestions where to buy them?
Thanks!
Wipperman Connex Chain Link, £7.99 for 10-speed from Merlin if you are in UK. Completely re-useable and no tools needed.
After we waxed our chain either with Wax Drip or the one you just showed. Do we need to wax it every time after we washed our bike?
That cooker model is used?
I rewax my chain too often according to my wife. Something about focusing on her…….
I do not wax my wife at all, I leave that to Brazilian Butterfly (whoever they are).
@@Desmo500 appreciate you clearing that up
pro tip: leave the chain in with the wax as it warms up. then you don not need to worry about the skin forming or it reaching the correct temperature. just swish it around for 30s after it is fully melted and then hang it. easy peasy
Do you not need to clean the. Haon more thoroughly before rewaxing? The microfibre cloth wipe feels like there could still be gunk/mud etc in the chain. That then is going to go into your wax pot, who h you will let cool and use agaon next time??? Watching your waxing and cleaning vids, looking to convert to waxing, but want to get my head fully around this all first!!!!
I mainly use wet lube where I live. Wax went off in its tube.
Nice video! But if i do not have a wax heater, can i use two cooking pott, one bigger to boil water and a smaller one, which i can put into the bigger one, to heat the wax?
too much hustle for me. i just use flower power drip wax and apply every 350-400km on a road bike.
I degrease the chain by shaking it in a plastic bottle, wipe off , drop in crockpot and it’s good for 300 miles at least, done it for over 30 years ,remember it’s a bicycle chain, not a component in a space shuttle 👌🏻
I stopped using wax, it just doesn’t protect the chain in wet conditions. Went back to wet lube last longer and smoother gear shifting with my mechanical Groupset 😊 yes it’s marginally dirtier but no rust and smoother than wax which just melts away.
What do you do about linking a freshly waxed chain; do you put on a "dry" quick link, do you put on some drip wax on the quick link, is each side of the quick link waxed in place with the chain?
Hot wax and hallow pin chain, with they collected the wax or will it run leaving them empty?
Can you send a link of this heating pot? thanks alot
Hope you guys mention that Shimano quick links are rated for ONE USE ONLY by the manufacturer. Every time you remove the chain to wax it you should technically be replacing the quick link and those things aren't cheap!
Any though on the Wenn rub-on soft wax. I’ve been using it four a couple of years, but I could also be destroying my drive train. Used primarily in a garage on a trainer.
Nice. Reuse my Shimano quick links until they do not "click" into place any longer. Can be up to 8-10 times if I'm lucky. YMMV.
Hi Team ~ Waxing my chain ... i waxed my chain for the first time, as you say in your video to remove it from the Croc Pot and let it cool down, it will then be stiff like plastic ~ why not refit it without loosening it as movement will loosen as you go >>> take care
I must be doing something wrong. I'm roughly 1k km on my chain and it's at .75 wear, so basically at the point of replacement already. It's a Shimano original 11s.
I've used spirit to do the initial stripping and then applied a widely available drip-on wax and generously reapplied it every 250km or so. I might've used to little after the initial stripping though...
I know there's little to conclude or say from this, I just hope next chain will be better.
What is the reason for having the wax skim over before removing from the pot?
Waxed chain “makes a little bit of a mess” throughout its useful life in my experience. Keeps flaking throughout. Always a mess. Never gets clean.
so with the wax that can be applied like lube, you dont need to degrease them at all? i t hought there would still be some dirt on the chain, might not be a big dirt, but a fine one. or at least with aceton or white spirits?
Was a huge fan of waxing using Squirt lube. Never had a cleaner chain. Only downside was doing this in winter and having to reapply twice a week on a 14 mile round trip commute. Also the slightest bit of rain and my chain would go into rust mode. Was I applying it wrong hmm.
Look up where Squirt ranks in different qualities at Zero Friction Cycling, and you may be surprised! Or not…
@@jamesrosar3823 yeah heard it's not the best. A brand you recommend?
@@jamesrosar3823 ZFC made racist comments about Hambini so doesnt deserve any discussion here.
PLUS his website is full of mistakes. He doesnt even measure power correctly and ignores the chain deflection issues that waxing is exposed to nor does he replicate REAL WORLD riding forces and angles that a normal cyclist uses.
He is just a marketing goon IMO. No formal background in engineering etc unlike Hambini who he tried to roast.
@@durianriders; Please supply the evidence of what you consider to be the offensive comment. Also, bicycle chain wear testing was much less sophisticated before ZFC; so who is presently doing testing to the standards you are suggesting? And finally, what does “cancel culture”mean to you, sir?
Only _Bike7 Pro Wax_ 👍This liquid wax is far superior over other brands (including famous Squirt or Momum)
reference to actual test results?