Watching this very expensive advertisement! Castelli Tempesta Lite Cycling Jacket £350.00 Park Tool PCS-10.3 Deluxe Home Mechanic Repair Stand £370.00 Silca Ultimate Bike Wash £30.00 Silca Ultimate Brake And Drivetrain Cleaner £36.00
I'm proud to say I haven't! To clean my bike I just fold it and load it in the dishwasher. After a few hours it comes back clean and dry. If my bike is really dirty I just run a prewash cycle first. It takes a bit more time but is usually worth it. In comparison cleaning it by hand seems like a real hassle!!
Also an important step in my opinion: Once you've prewashed your bike, still be mindful of the order in which you clean the bike. The top tube and handlebars will often be far less contaminated, so start there. Then work your way down and finish with the wheels and drivetrain area where the contamination is highest. Minimized chance of scratching or smearing grease everywhere.
Spot on - start at the top and work down, same as with the car. But I strongly disagree with Ollie about washing-up liquid. I've been using Bio-D WUL for decades. It isn't harmful and works perfectly well (and is vastly cheaper than branded bike cleaners). It's also great for cleaning lube, ingrained dirt etc from my hands.
@@therider4909 i wouldn't use it personally as they say it's harsh on paintwork, they say not to use it on cars as it strips the wax off the paintwork. I use car wash and wax on my bikes.
I have done that for about 10 years on a full suspension mtb as an experiment: just oiling, never cleaning: it’s the best for the mechanics of the bike, nothing really got worn, but the bike eventually looked like a tractor more than a bike. Stuff falls off when there’s too much of it… Here in California one can get a ticket for a dirty bike because it’s moving invasive species around. It’s also quite a bit embarrassing to show up with a bike covered in mud and tar.
I love how Arizona was the exception for drying your bike, because that's where I live and that's exactly what I do after rinsing everything - leave it sitting for about 20 minutes and it's bone dry!
How do you get all that dirt off your drivetrain? With a degreaser? If yes, how do you wash it off? I'm always concerned of that stuff ending up in the bearings
Letting it air dry is a bad idea. Water has minerals and other things in it. Letting those evaporate leaves those things behind and you get water spots. Also in a dry dusty environment like AZ dust sticks to the water. Either wipe it down to get off as much as possible or better yet use a leaf blower to blow it all away. The blower gets in all the nooks and crannies a towel can’t.
Having a double-coated dog like a Labrador led me to discover a fantastic bike drying hack. Dog dryers work perfectly because the airflow strength is very similar to that of compressors. So, I blow out my dog's undercoat other times I use it to dry my bike. Drying the bike takes no more than two minutes. I highly recommend it!
I would advise the 2 bucket method 1 bucket with the cleaning shampoo and 1 of clean water with the grit gard to wash your mitt off after ever time it contacts your frame so the dirt stays in the clean water bucket not in the shampoo bucket Alternative several clothes in one bucket and put them to one side once used
Could you please make a video on longer term bike maintenance related stuff? Do I have to lube moving parts like the derailleur or shift leavers? When should bottom bracket and headset bearings be serviced/regreased? Thank you.
Tip: Wippermann Connex quicklinks are reuseable for the lifetime of the chain (often longer!) and can be assembled by hand without any tools. I highly recommend them. 👍🏻
If you wash your bike often, be aware of accidentally creating potential rust spots. These are hidden and even blowers will not get to them. (1) Brake lever hoods, fold them open to allow the water inside not to rust the bolts in there; also clean that area dry and if salty, use alcohol to clean up. (2) the bolts that attach your back brake, those bolts get wet and rusted. Remove one at a time dry it, grease it and clean it, put it back, then do the other one; removing one bolt at a time retains the position of the brake assembly.
Please make a version of this video for people who live in an apartment and don’t have access to a hose or even a bike stand. I have a balcony and a bucket. That’s it.
Save water! I'm also an apartment dweller. My steel COLNAGO Master deserves only the best: NO stand, old toothbrush, PETROL to clean the chain while I light up a Cuban Cohiba, plenty of old t-shirts, ONE wet rag to clean my handbuilt wheels. This video is so WOKE that your swimmers can metamorph into prancing little unicorns.
Here you go: My steel COLNAGO Master deserves only the best: NO stand, old toothbrush, PETROL to clean the chain while I light up a Cuban Cohiba, plenty of old t-shirts, ONE wet rag to clean my handbuilt wheels. This video is so WOKE that your swimmers can metamorph into prancing little unicorns.
Honestly, your best option is Finishline 1 step. I would use a cloth and run the bike chain through it and clean the cassette. Use a toothbrush for hard to reach areas and place a towel under the parts you clean. The product I referenced cleans and lubricates and is pretty good.
Thanks Ollie for another great and informative video x I have an air dryer for my bike thanks to my partner, it's hand held and wasn't cheap but certainly not unattainable :)
Great video! I felt like a knew these things already but i still found a lot of great tips - actually it was amazing advice on the pressure hose, just stand further back! So simple!
If you have a garage, there's a decent chance you also have a yard. If you have a yard, there's a decent chance you have a leaf blower. Those things are brilliant for drying things off.
@@MrMartinSchou I’ve got a blower for doing decals on cars, but I found it was blowing the grease out. I also tried a dehumidifier, but that also seemed to affect the grease. I’ll pop it in the kitchen through the night, then move back too ok garage when it’s safe.
I use a dust blower to dry the bike. I've used my leaf blower but it seemed excessive. Either way, blowing the water out of bolt heads and those little spots in your crankset is great. Air compressor was too targeted, I think it wants to blow the air INTO the headset bearing area for example.
Take your wheels off and wash them seperately. That way you can better prevent water and degreasing agents getting into the wheel hubs. Use a chain catcher for your chain if you dont remove it.
As a professional car detailer, there are lots of bike washing videos give me a heart attack. But I must say, this one is damn near spot on! One extra tip I can give since its on the stand now, will be to take off the wheels and also use a hard brush to clean the tyres and also the area behind the seat post and fork will be much easier to reach with the mitt.
@@dh7314 love ceramic coating on my bike too! And after washing, give it a wipe over with a ceramic spray sealant. If you want to take it a step further, you can try PPF on it. It’s a pain to install and if you’re a weight weenie, it does add some weight, but the protection it gives is second to none.
I was a detailer, I used ceramic coating when my bikes are new and now I'm going to do a full color change wrap. If you want to have a cringe worthy moment, check ou tthis bike wash th-cam.com/video/qZzzrsU-jw8/w-d-xo.html
I have an electric air compressor that I also use for computer cleaning (it's marketed as a replacement for canned air). It works great for getting water out of all the nooks and crannies on the bike.
The DataVac, yep. I make sure to blow out water around the headset, cranks, derailleurs, seatpost wedge, brifters, pedals...anywhere water may ingress and start to rust hard-to-reach parts.
Thank you. I think this is the 3rd bike cleaning video I watched on GCN. Now, all I need is a bike to clean and to ride. Still waiting for the bike I want to buy to become available again.
It’s an awful time to be buying a bike, everything is out of stock whilst they’re waiting for the 2024 stock to arrive. I bought a new bike last week and the choice was really poor. Hope you get yours soon
@@dh7314 thank you. Yes it is a pain. decided to get into cycling 6 month ago and I have seen like every GCN Video. Decided I'd go fo a canyon bike but it is just impossible to get my hands on it (at least in my frame size). Anyway I enjoy the content and patiently wait for next season.
@@gcntech I am looking to get the canyon grizl AL as a 2by. I think it should make for a good entry level bike. With all the great content on these channels from epic gravel rides to the difference between light weight and aero helmets it makes the wait more enjoyable and harder at the same time.
1:19 "..if you're the kind of person who washes your car in one of those mechanical car washes with the swirling brushes ...." I really wanted you to suggest they should stick their bike on the roof racks and wash both at the same time.
Thanks Dr O and crew...I do most of this already , and , I spray a microfiber cloth with Mucoff silicone and polish the frame with it ...for a more feces free frame !
I believe in taking care of my bike, and a balanced bike stand and a rigorous cleaning routine. In the morning, if my drivetrain is a little dirty, I'll spray on a pre wash spray while preparing the actual contact wash. I can do a thousand watts now. After I rinse off the pre wash, I use a deep cleaning surfactant. While rinsing with the hose, I use a soft wash mitt. Then apply a disc brake cleaner. And on the drivetrain, a degreasing gel scrub. Then apply the graphene spray wax, which I leave on for 10 minutes while I prepare the rest of my routine. I always use a bike specific cleanser, because washing up liquid mars the paint and makes the lacquer look dull. Then buff the frame, then the ultimate ceramic waterless wash followed by a final wax drip lube.
I do pretty much all of this already except I use a special car shampoo that's formulated very similar to bike wash but comes in a much more concentrated form. This lowers the cost significantly (as most bike specific cleaning products are plain theft) and means I have to buy new product much less often (which also saves on shipping cost). Also, for pre-wash I can just use the same stuff but I put it in a handheld foam sprayer to brake up the dirt. Yet more cost saved by having to get only 1 product 🎉 The only thing you have to take care about is not getting the mixing ratios wrong and wearing PPE when mixing 😅 Also, even if you did pre-wash it helps to go with the two-bucket system: that is, also use a bucket of water without soap (and with a grit guard) to rince the wash mitt every now and then. Makes for even less scratching. Finally, I also use a small container with chain cleaner and a paint brush to clean the chain instead of a spray bottle, makes for even less overspray opportunity
Cool I thought the same with a nozzle handsprayer! What formulation where you looking for in a car wash soap/solution that works great for bikes since obviously it is much more cost effective! Are you using a wash and wax formula, a super foamy formula or a more regular/Traditional concentrated car wash... Also what brands caught your attention in terms of effectiveness & affordability?
How bad is hard water for bicycles over time? A weird lesson I learned about air-drying a bike in a dry climate is when your tap water has high dissolved mineral content. If you regularly wash and air-dry your bike, you'll notice spots where mineral deposits form. It's probably far better than the stuff being washed off, but I suppose if you wash your bike daily for a few thousand years you might have nice stalactites. Seriously though, I was wondering what those white stains were before it dawned on me it was mineral build up.
Same here and I use the carproducts on it aswell, I allways said the carindustry is lightyears ahead of these so called bike specific brands I dont care what anyone says they are proven better.
@@LtStone1 Forgot to mention- you can use waterless wash products, i.e. quick detailers etc to avoid scratches and swirls when wiping frame with microfibre towel without washing
I line up bike cleanings with chain rotation, so I remove the chain & wheelset. I also wrap the RD, FD, drive-side crank and saddle with leftover plastic shopping bags to protect the components which have lots of internal lubrication and recessed areas where I'd rather water didn't flow. You can cut up a magic eraser and wedge that in the BB shell to help prevent water ingress as well. On my current bike, I use the Gtechniq ceramic coating before I turned a single pedal and it's made cleaning near contactless. I mist it, spray with the included Gtechniq bike clean spray, mist again, and dry with a clean microfiber before using a hand compressor with a dust filter to chase droplets out of sensitive areas like the headset, brifters, derailleurs, cranks, pedals, etc.
I took my bike out yesterday and it was covered in mud from the cycle path due to the recent storms. I got home, hosed down the bike and took it indoors to dry it out, clean and lube my chain. I was busily using degreaser I'd sprayed on a cloth to pat down the surfaces of my bike and forgot what I was doing and patted my rear disc with it! I managed to stop myself before I caused any problems. Instantly got the isopropyl alcohol out and gave both discs a clean, since I had it out. That was a disaster closely averted!
Good info. One thing I would change is not use the same cloth you use for your rims on your frame. Way more dirt and grime on the wheels than the frame
Not having the luxury of washing yard, I usually remove wheels and brake pads before doing major cleaning job, using dampened microfiber rags, paintbrush, toothbrush, and optional compessed air. Cleaning solvent is used on apparent spots but not the whole bike. Initial coating treatment to the frame does help cleaning efforts.
@@gcntech In the comfort of my living room actually. Not ideal if you have carpets though. It's not all that tricky as less time messing around avoiding splashing at sensitive parts, and a road bike is easier to work with, as well as wax lubricant, hydraulic brakes, electrical shifting, glossy paints all helps keep a simpler, cleaner bike to start with. Just additional vacuum cleaning to wrap up the job. I do use chain cleaner and water for drivetrain cleaning with usual chain cleaing tool, which help keeps water from all over the place. I confess that spinning the crank arm 30 plus revs each pass, 5 passes at least for cleaning chain a bit boring, even though I do it about every 500km ride, coinside with the recommendation of the drip wax lube I use.
Good video, and good comments. I really ought to do a better job cleaning my bike, I'm riding hundreds of miles a week, sometimes through wet, and I want this bike to last. So far so good for a year on this bike but I'm guessing my current level of care for the bike wouldn't last 10 years like this without a lot of repairing and replacing parts, and I should probably consider myself lucky that my drivetrain hasn't needed anything repaired or replaced for any bike in my life, while people who seem to conduct better routine cleaning and maintenance on their bikes have also had to routinely replace parts. I'm riding the heck out of this bike on rough streets, rough sidewalks, offroad, wet, and I'm taking it through dozens of 20-50 mile days in a row in between doing any kind of maintenance or cleaning at all, and sometimes months of that in between stripping it down and actually cleaning and oiling the chain. I'll consider myself lucky that it's still doing okay, and start taking better care of it.
I was told by my LBS to always lift the bike up by its handlebars after washing so as it stands on its back wheel. Old style frames have holes in to let the welding gases out during fabrication and water gets in during wet rides and during washing. Try it yourself youll be amazed at the amount of water that can come out.
I live in an apartment, or what you Europeans would call a flat :). Pressure washing is not an option. It's hand washing for me. I use microfiber and I've never had an issue with scratching. I don't know what microfiber towels you are using, but mine never scratch. I also don't have to worry about rust so much with hand washing. I clean and lube my drivetrain and apply any adjustment needed. Next I give my brake rotors a good wipe down with some isopropyl to remove any grime or dust (I ride in very dry areas, so mud is not an issue for me - it's mostly sand and fine dirt). Then I take a clean microfiber cloth and wipe down my forks (I ride mountain bikes). Finally I get another microfiber cloth and get it damp and spray some citrus based degreaser (which is paint friendly) on it and wipe down the frame. Then I wipe down again with another damp microfiber cloth, and a final wipe with a dry cloth to remove any residue. Finally I top up my air pressure if it's needed. If I'm feeling fancy I will wipe down the sidewalls of my tires with a shop towel too :)
When the bad weather season starts, I once clean the bike properly, and then I apply some special wax, which is used for vacuforming parts (e.g. canopies for model airplanes). When I used that wax once for such a part, I found out that remaining rests on the vacuformed part I could only remove with paint thinner, as it even resisted the use of cleaning alcohol (98% ethylalcohol), so it will easily resist salty water on the road in winter time. For original bike protection wax, there is alcohol sufficient. By doing so, it is sufficient just to use a watering can as long as the dirt is wet. One coating of wax is sufficient for about ten days, then I repeat the procedure. This year I will get me one of these water sprayers, which you have to kind of pump up (a friend of mine uses such a thing for his snake terrarium), then I have a little more power than just a watering can. The only mistake I made up to now was not drying my bike, which I will avoid in the future. I have to admit I thought it is not so bad. Concerning the waxed chain - try out the Squirt chain wax for e-bikes. I suppose the main goal here was to create a wax that is more resistant against being washed out (as the typical e-biker won't look after his bike to often), and less a fast running chain, which indeed is not so important in winter time
Ollie! You make me laugh! 😅Thanks for the clarification.I enjoyed the video. But, you used the same microfiber for the frame and crankest? you will do some scratches 😅
Waxing my chains has made cleaning my bikes so much easier. Take the chain off, put it in the pot to re-apply the wax wash the bike. No chain cleaners, and the whole drivetrain is just cleaner. It’s the best.
So I follow up some good advise and bought myself a parktool bike stand. After first time cleaning my bike on it it got rust spots on it. Now I don't know if I want to use it again for cleaning because maybe its better for my bike, but I also don't want to ruin my bike stand.
While bicycle technology has advanced by leaps and bounds, bike stands are still stuck in the 1980s. I don't see why we can't have carbon fiber bike stands that are stronger, lighter, and more corrosion resistant than steel.
A Leaf blower works great to dry your bike, and consider a spray on wax product like FW1 cleaning and waxing. This is great on your frame and deep dish wheels, makes then shine and they attract less dirt and dust.
1. Get a stand for the bike so it does not fall over 2. Hose down the bike before anything else, so the dirt is not used as sand paper when scrubbing. The chain can be removed if waxed. 3. Be cautious about pressure washers - they can be used with caution. 4. Don't use brushes on the frame but a micro fiber wash mitt or similar. Optional tip use a grid guard. A comment suggested using another bucket with water to clean the mitt in between the bucket with soap. He then mentions the risks of using wasing up liquid compared to a dedicated bike product. A comment suggested shampoo as a cheap option. 5. Don't contaminate the brakes. Use a spray-on instead of aerosol. Wipe the product off ITF it hits the brake. 6. Dry off your bike afterwards. E.g. bringing it inside with a air dehumidifier. Wiping is also good.
Don’t get conned into buying fancy cleaning products that are “made for bikes”. You can pick up car shampoo without wax which is a pH neutral cleaner for little money. You can grab a clean empty spray bottle and mix up 1 part car shampoo to 10 parts water to spray on the bike after the initial rinse to start the wash process before coming in with a microfibre cleaning mitt for the frame and a soft cleaning brush for the rest of it. You can also pick up a large bottle of degreaser from most DIY stores which is much better value. After the final rinse use a leaf blower to remove most of the water and a smallish microfibre drying towel to finish off before applying the lube!
I like taking my bike for a dip in the sea! Gets rid of all the dirt! ......Noooooo, seriously thanks for the tips. Years ago I used to wash my bike with dishwashing detergent. It made the breaks squeal, decreased their performance and also made the finish look dull. I have used proper stuff since then but have not seen the pre wash - rinse - main wash process before. I will do this from now on.
What if it is below 0 outside and you cant use a hose. Or you live in an apartment and don't have access to a hose. Is there a good way to wash a bike indoors?
Immediately after a ride I hose down the bike (if dirty) then put it in the van for drive home... The vibrations then cause vast amount of water to drop of. Once home I put my 2kw fan heater in the van for an hour.... Polish up with a microfiber cloth if necessary. Job done
Hmmm! Look in any auto shop and the shelves are filled with a multitude of auto detergents, wash-n-waxes, waxes, polishes, dozens of brands. But how different are they really? Put a kitchen lable on the bottle and it'll be cheap, put a car lable on it and the price goes up, put a motorcycle label on it and it'll go up again, put a bicycle on it and the small print ishould include, "I saw you coming". I'm currently in the middle east and I needed some degreaser to clean my chain. The only bottle of "engine degreaser" the shop had was a 500ml kitchen type spray bottle, the liquid was luminous green, and smelt like Mr Muscle oven cleaner. (Nothing like 5L of clear no-nonense Screwfix degreaser I have at home). Even so, it worked a treat but, next time I'll buy a bottle of much cheaper oven cleaner.
Cheers from the Great White North 🇨🇦 Also any thoughts on using a nozzle pressure pump handsprayer to foam up your bike after the rinse & before the bucket N mitt contact wash?
I prefer to wash my bike with the wheels off. That way my brakes don't get contaminated , I can clean the seat stays, chain stays & fork easily, and it protects the hubs from the washing liquids.
I've generally been using Si's old 20 min bike wash vid (minus using washing up liquid and WD40!) so I clean the bike top down and then the chain on the bike, before taking the wheels off to clean them, the cassette and inside the forks and stays.
Great tips! I’m trying to get back in to cycling after a 5 yr hiatus. You mentioned PPF which is something I recently did to my car. This reminded me of another thing I’ve done to my car, Ceramic Coating. Would doing this to my bike ruin it or protect it more? 🤷🏻♂️🤔
Generally great tips. I prefer the two-bucket method with a grid guard, and I disagree about using a mitt instead of a soft brush. A good soft brush with an open structure allows the water and smaller sand particles to flush away more easily. A mitt will keep more of these sand particles in and will easily scratch the bike.
after a rainy ride I splash boiling water on my disc rotors, hubs, chain ring. then wipe with a soapy sponge, then wash as usual. helps remove oil that comes from road splashes (probably from leaky motorcycles and cars on city roads).
I use GT85 as water dispersant anti-corrosion spray successfully on my commute bike that's ridden year round, if you have discs Tru Tension sell a Grime guard to protect discs from overspray.
Thanks Ollie - i probably fall on the over careful cleaner. So if the bike gets (wet) dirty like yesterday then its hosed down, MO94 spray, dried off and left in the lounge over night (i have an understanding wife). Then every 300km the chain is degresed, and Ceramic Speed UFO Drip applied - again left indoors at least over night. BTW i took it in for its annual service and the guy said it looked brand new (it's 3 yrs old) - so clearly my cleaning regime is working. The only issue i've had is on last service the headset bearings had rusted and needed replacing - after that i've stopped using the Muc Off Power Washer, even though as you say it should be ok. Happy Days
My addl comments; 1. You can use light liquid detergent soap to wash your bike frames, spokes, rims using sponge.. just only remove sticky matls. Wash with clean water until the detergent is thorougly removed. 2. For bike chain, pedals, druellers.. mix water w small amount of liquid detergent soap using “ toothbrush” to clean thoroughly first the chain (all surface) to remove dirt and grease, for druellers brush bolt joints, spring to remove inserted small particles, brush your pedal’s tooth to remove dirt and grease… 3. For Drying.. In tropical countries it is very easier to let your bike dry… during rainy season, leave your clean bike in an open space using electric fan until your chain is fully dry… 4. MAINTENANCE: In my 25 yrs as a biker fanatics, of course together w my cycling club, a spoonful of crude oil will do the greasing of your entire bike. - BIKE CHAIN/ DRUELLERS, PEDALS, a spoonful of crude oil is sufficient enough to grease these parts. Use tootbrush ( fine) , dip portion toothbrush into the crude oil and apply to your chain ( top, bottom, 2 sides) while you handedly roll your pedals slowly, same brush your sprocket while rool your pedal, brush also druellers specially at springs, bolt joints, wheel, while rooling..after applied, hand roll your pedal about 3 minutes ( min.) until you hear that smooth, frictionless sound.. leave it there for about less than hour.. - FRAMES, BRAKES HANDLE. ETC - dip clean white cotton rug w crude oill… apply on your frames, and parts of your bike, ie spokes, wheel frames, handle bars, etc.. Make sure use only small amount of crude oil, a spoonful of it is sufficient enough for the entire bike.
I own a good steam cleaner for other reasons and I have turned it on really dirty bike gears of a used bike I bought, and that was appropriate for that bicycle at that time, but I do worry about it getting into crevices where you do not want moisure.
My new Time Alpe d'Huez will be delivered in the next 2 weeks and I'll be putting Ridewrap on the most vulnerable parts of the frame, i.e. downtube, chain stays, seat tube. I use the 3 bucket method for my car (1 for wheels, 1 for washing , 1 for rinsing the wash mitt), but for my bike I use a few microfiber towels and 1 bucket, making sure that I dont put the dirt from my bike into the clean water/soap. Just switch towels as they get dirty. I hardly ever need more than 3. Just a question about drying the bike with an air compressor.....won't that force the moisture into the bearings (headset, BB and hubs)??
I use car shampoo but I do do a prewash with snow foam. Basically I do the same for the bike(s) as my car. Takes time so I always ensure I have a decent slot to do it properly.
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Have you made any of these mistakes? 😬
Ummm, no... 😊
Watching this very expensive advertisement!
Castelli Tempesta Lite Cycling Jacket £350.00
Park Tool PCS-10.3 Deluxe Home Mechanic Repair Stand £370.00
Silca Ultimate Bike Wash £30.00
Silca Ultimate Brake And Drivetrain Cleaner £36.00
I'm proud to say I haven't! To clean my bike I just fold it and load it in the dishwasher. After a few hours it comes back clean and dry. If my bike is really dirty I just run a prewash cycle first. It takes a bit more time but is usually worth it. In comparison cleaning it by hand seems like a real hassle!!
Just curious is it always water first or can I just use wipes? As how my bike is I thought just to use wipes only to take extra care
@@69SunStI saw truing stand but looking at one that is £80 that looks exact same but not blue or same base
Also an important step in my opinion: Once you've prewashed your bike, still be mindful of the order in which you clean the bike. The top tube and handlebars will often be far less contaminated, so start there. Then work your way down and finish with the wheels and drivetrain area where the contamination is highest. Minimized chance of scratching or smearing grease everywhere.
Step by step! It's definetly true that I can agree.
Great tips! Getting the order right is very important 🙌
Same as washing a car, start at top.
Spot on - start at the top and work down, same as with the car.
But I strongly disagree with Ollie about washing-up liquid. I've been using Bio-D WUL for decades. It isn't harmful and works perfectly well (and is vastly cheaper than branded bike cleaners). It's also great for cleaning lube, ingrained dirt etc from my hands.
@@therider4909 i wouldn't use it personally as they say it's harsh on paintwork, they say not to use it on cars as it strips the wax off the paintwork. I use car wash and wax on my bikes.
Plot twist: I’m not cleaning my bike
Plot twist, you are paying someone else to do it.
Plot twist: as long as you clean the rear gears and chain you're ok
I have done that for about 10 years on a full suspension mtb as an experiment: just oiling, never cleaning: it’s the best for the mechanics of the bike, nothing really got worn, but the bike eventually looked like a tractor more than a bike.
Stuff falls off when there’s too much of it…
Here in California one can get a ticket for a dirty bike because it’s moving invasive species around.
It’s also quite a bit embarrassing to show up with a bike covered in mud and tar.
Plot twist: I just buy a new bike once it gets dirty. It's so much easier that way.
😂
I love how Arizona was the exception for drying your bike, because that's where I live and that's exactly what I do after rinsing everything - leave it sitting for about 20 minutes and it's bone dry!
he's lying it's more like 5 mins....
How do you get all that dirt off your drivetrain? With a degreaser? If yes, how do you wash it off? I'm always concerned of that stuff ending up in the bearings
Letting it air dry is a bad idea. Water has minerals and other things in it. Letting those evaporate leaves those things behind and you get water spots. Also in a dry dusty environment like AZ dust sticks to the water. Either wipe it down to get off as much as possible or better yet use a leaf blower to blow it all away. The blower gets in all the nooks and crannies a towel can’t.
Having a double-coated dog like a Labrador led me to discover a fantastic bike drying hack. Dog dryers work perfectly because the airflow strength is very similar to that of compressors. So, I blow out my dog's undercoat other times I use it to dry my bike. Drying the bike takes no more than two minutes. I highly recommend it!
Genius! I have a standard poodle, so I do actually have one of these dryers, and will be using it every time now. Thanks!
Can you say leaf blower!!!
I would advise the 2 bucket method 1 bucket with the cleaning shampoo and 1 of clean water with the grit gard to wash your mitt off after ever time it contacts your frame so the dirt stays in the clean water bucket not in the shampoo bucket
Alternative several clothes in one bucket and put them to one side once used
after watching the whole video I like this advise more ✌😅
Could you please make a video on longer term bike maintenance related stuff? Do I have to lube moving parts like the derailleur or shift leavers? When should bottom bracket and headset bearings be serviced/regreased? Thank you.
Great idea, we are heading into the time of year that you might want to start getting more serious about these things.
Tip: Wippermann Connex quicklinks are reuseable for the lifetime of the chain (often longer!) and can be assembled by hand without any tools. I highly recommend them. 👍🏻
Oooooooo thanks for that
If you wash your bike often, be aware of accidentally creating potential rust spots. These are hidden and even blowers will not get to them. (1) Brake lever hoods, fold them open to allow the water inside not to rust the bolts in there; also clean that area dry and if salty, use alcohol to clean up. (2) the bolts that attach your back brake, those bolts get wet and rusted. Remove one at a time dry it, grease it and clean it, put it back, then do the other one; removing one bolt at a time retains the position of the brake assembly.
For drying if you don't have a compressor, I recommend a leaf blower. Near as good as a compressor and many homes have one.
This!
i just use a powerful fan and a hair dryer for the groupset/others
I use a livestock hair dryer. £60 off eBay. Works a charm.
It's that time of year again. The gcn bike cleaning video😂
A video for every bike we own 😉
Washing? That’ll happen in the next rainstorm. Old dirt off, new dirt on. Go ride.
Please make a version of this video for people who live in an apartment and don’t have access to a hose or even a bike stand. I have a balcony and a bucket. That’s it.
Save water! I'm also an apartment dweller.
My steel COLNAGO Master deserves only the best: NO stand, old toothbrush, PETROL to clean the chain while I light up a Cuban Cohiba, plenty of old t-shirts, ONE wet rag to clean my handbuilt wheels.
This video is so WOKE that your swimmers can metamorph into prancing little unicorns.
An apartment dweller told me he washed his bike in the shower.
Looking for a video from a person that washes/details their car with 2 buckets, this guy is the man I need to listen to
Can we have a bike cleaning option for those of us in small flats with no outside space…
Here you go: My steel COLNAGO Master deserves only the best: NO stand, old toothbrush, PETROL to clean the chain while I light up a Cuban Cohiba, plenty of old t-shirts, ONE wet rag to clean my handbuilt wheels.
This video is so WOKE that your swimmers can metamorph into prancing little unicorns.
Honestly, your best option is Finishline 1 step. I would use a cloth and run the bike chain through it and clean the cassette. Use a toothbrush for hard to reach areas and place a towel under the parts you clean. The product I referenced cleans and lubricates and is pretty good.
Bathtub!!!
The brush ollie keeps holding up saying don't use on a frame is tge MucOff frame brush! Defo getting me a microfiber mitt for xmas though!
Thanks Ollie for another great and informative video x I have an air dryer for my bike thanks to my partner, it's hand held and wasn't cheap but certainly not unattainable :)
Great video! I felt like a knew these things already but i still found a lot of great tips - actually it was amazing advice on the pressure hose, just stand further back! So simple!
Big thing for me is not to let it dry in the garage, as things will rust and corrode, bring it into the house or somewhere warm to dry.
Or wash it on a sunny day in Australia. It dries in the sun😊😊
If you have a garage, there's a decent chance you also have a yard. If you have a yard, there's a decent chance you have a leaf blower. Those things are brilliant for drying things off.
Great idea! A cold damp garage can be pretty nasty place for a bike. If you can, bringing the bike into the warmth is great
@@MrMartinSchou I’ve got a blower for doing decals on cars, but I found it was blowing the grease out. I also tried a dehumidifier, but that also seemed to affect the grease.
I’ll pop it in the kitchen through the night, then move back too ok garage when it’s safe.
@@MrMartinSchou Saw Blake doing this on his wash station build vid on GMBN the other day
I am surprised that Ollie doesn't end the episode with waxing the chain 😅😅
I use a dust blower to dry the bike. I've used my leaf blower but it seemed excessive. Either way, blowing the water out of bolt heads and those little spots in your crankset is great. Air compressor was too targeted, I think it wants to blow the air INTO the headset bearing area for example.
No matter how experienced you are, you will still watch GCN and learn new things sometimes ❤️
Take your wheels off and wash them seperately. That way you can better prevent water and degreasing agents getting into the wheel hubs. Use a chain catcher for your chain if you dont remove it.
💯 agree. Keep water and degreaser away from bearings in wheel hubs, bottom bracket and headset. 😊
As a professional car detailer, there are lots of bike washing videos give me a heart attack. But I must say, this one is damn near spot on!
One extra tip I can give since its on the stand now, will be to take off the wheels and also use a hard brush to clean the tyres and also the area behind the seat post and fork will be much easier to reach with the mitt.
Where do you stand on ceramic coating on bikes? I have it on all my bikes and so far so good
@@dh7314 love ceramic coating on my bike too! And after washing, give it a wipe over with a ceramic spray sealant.
If you want to take it a step further, you can try PPF on it. It’s a pain to install and if you’re a weight weenie, it does add some weight, but the protection it gives is second to none.
@@lemeneidPPF is totally worth it. I put more coverage on each bike I get. Like you said, it’s a pain to put on. But that pain is very temporary.
I was a detailer, I used ceramic coating when my bikes are new and now I'm going to do a full color change wrap. If you want to have a cringe worthy moment, check ou tthis bike wash th-cam.com/video/qZzzrsU-jw8/w-d-xo.html
Love the idea of ceramic coating the bike, just haven’t gotten around to it yet.
I have an electric air compressor that I also use for computer cleaning (it's marketed as a replacement for canned air). It works great for getting water out of all the nooks and crannies on the bike.
Oooo interesting tips! 👀
The DataVac, yep. I make sure to blow out water around the headset, cranks, derailleurs, seatpost wedge, brifters, pedals...anywhere water may ingress and start to rust hard-to-reach parts.
@@maximilian3004 yup, that's what I have! Such a great little tool!
Not everyone has a garage or a backyard. My bike takes shower in the bathroom right before i do )
That’s an idea the lady I live with is not going to like
Thank you. I think this is the 3rd bike cleaning video I watched on GCN. Now, all I need is a bike to clean and to ride. Still waiting for the bike I want to buy to become available again.
It’s an awful time to be buying a bike, everything is out of stock whilst they’re waiting for the 2024 stock to arrive. I bought a new bike last week and the choice was really poor. Hope you get yours soon
@@dh7314 thank you. Yes it is a pain. decided to get into cycling 6 month ago and I have seen like every GCN Video. Decided I'd go fo a canyon bike but it is just impossible to get my hands on it (at least in my frame size). Anyway I enjoy the content and patiently wait for next season.
What bike have you got your eyes on? We're very excited for you!
@@gcntech I am looking to get the canyon grizl AL as a 2by. I think it should make for a good entry level bike. With all the great content on these channels from epic gravel rides to the difference between light weight and aero helmets it makes the wait more enjoyable and harder at the same time.
I don't understand how sometimes you make top notch content then this
Why don't you like this video?
1:19 "..if you're the kind of person who washes your car in one of those mechanical car washes with the swirling brushes ...."
I really wanted you to suggest they should stick their bike on the roof racks and wash both at the same time.
😂
Sounds like a recipe for disaster 👀
If you live in Ontario where it can be -20c in winter, you will only be washing your car in a mechanical car wash!
if it was possible i would
Thanks Dr O and crew...I do most of this already , and , I spray a microfiber cloth with Mucoff silicone and polish the frame with it ...for a more feces free frame !
I believe in taking care of my bike, and a balanced bike stand and a rigorous cleaning routine. In the morning, if my drivetrain is a little dirty, I'll spray on a pre wash spray while preparing the actual contact wash. I can do a thousand watts now. After I rinse off the pre wash, I use a deep cleaning surfactant. While rinsing with the hose, I use a soft wash mitt. Then apply a disc brake cleaner. And on the drivetrain, a degreasing gel scrub. Then apply the graphene spray wax, which I leave on for 10 minutes while I prepare the rest of my routine. I always use a bike specific cleanser, because washing up liquid mars the paint and makes the lacquer look dull. Then buff the frame, then the ultimate ceramic waterless wash followed by a final wax drip lube.
I have found that music selection, helps a lot with proper bike cleaning. Barry White - just the way you are is my go to song.
Excellent tips for both bikes and cars 👏 👏 👏
I do pretty much all of this already except I use a special car shampoo that's formulated very similar to bike wash but comes in a much more concentrated form. This lowers the cost significantly (as most bike specific cleaning products are plain theft) and means I have to buy new product much less often (which also saves on shipping cost). Also, for pre-wash I can just use the same stuff but I put it in a handheld foam sprayer to brake up the dirt. Yet more cost saved by having to get only 1 product 🎉 The only thing you have to take care about is not getting the mixing ratios wrong and wearing PPE when mixing 😅 Also, even if you did pre-wash it helps to go with the two-bucket system: that is, also use a bucket of water without soap (and with a grit guard) to rince the wash mitt every now and then. Makes for even less scratching. Finally, I also use a small container with chain cleaner and a paint brush to clean the chain instead of a spray bottle, makes for even less overspray opportunity
Cool I thought the same with a nozzle handsprayer! What formulation where you looking for in a car wash soap/solution that works great for bikes since obviously it is much more cost effective! Are you using a wash and wax formula, a super foamy formula or a more regular/Traditional concentrated car wash... Also what brands caught your attention in terms of effectiveness & affordability?
@@psyk0path0_ofwizzdoom27 I use Carpro Reset
How bad is hard water for bicycles over time?
A weird lesson I learned about air-drying a bike in a dry climate is when your tap water has high dissolved mineral content. If you regularly wash and air-dry your bike, you'll notice spots where mineral deposits form. It's probably far better than the stuff being washed off, but I suppose if you wash your bike daily for a few thousand years you might have nice stalactites. Seriously though, I was wondering what those white stains were before it dawned on me it was mineral build up.
Loving your work once again Ollie, apart from chain waxing we're nearly always on the same page.
My car detailing passion extends to my bike 😀
Same here and I use the carproducts on it aswell, I allways said the carindustry is lightyears ahead of these so called bike specific brands I dont care what anyone says they are proven better.
@@LtStone1 And cheaper too! Buy a 5L bottle of car cleaning liquid instead of those small 1L bottles for bikes for roughly the same price.
Quite right mate.
@@LtStone1 Forgot to mention- you can use waterless wash products, i.e. quick detailers etc to avoid scratches and swirls when wiping frame with microfibre towel without washing
Have you ever done the double? Car clean and bike clean?
I line up bike cleanings with chain rotation, so I remove the chain & wheelset. I also wrap the RD, FD, drive-side crank and saddle with leftover plastic shopping bags to protect the components which have lots of internal lubrication and recessed areas where I'd rather water didn't flow. You can cut up a magic eraser and wedge that in the BB shell to help prevent water ingress as well.
On my current bike, I use the Gtechniq ceramic coating before I turned a single pedal and it's made cleaning near contactless. I mist it, spray with the included Gtechniq bike clean spray, mist again, and dry with a clean microfiber before using a hand compressor with a dust filter to chase droplets out of sensitive areas like the headset, brifters, derailleurs, cranks, pedals, etc.
I took my bike out yesterday and it was covered in mud from the cycle path due to the recent storms. I got home, hosed down the bike and took it indoors to dry it out, clean and lube my chain. I was busily using degreaser I'd sprayed on a cloth to pat down the surfaces of my bike and forgot what I was doing and patted my rear disc with it! I managed to stop myself before I caused any problems. Instantly got the isopropyl alcohol out and gave both discs a clean, since I had it out. That was a disaster closely averted!
Good info. One thing I would change is not use the same cloth you use for your rims on your frame. Way more dirt and grime on the wheels than the frame
Not having the luxury of washing yard, I usually remove wheels and brake pads before doing major cleaning job, using dampened microfiber rags, paintbrush, toothbrush, and optional compessed air. Cleaning solvent is used on apparent spots but not the whole bike. Initial coating treatment to the frame does help cleaning efforts.
Where do you clean your bike? Can always be tricky when you've not got outdoor access
@@gcntech In the comfort of my living room actually. Not ideal if you have carpets though. It's not all that tricky as less time messing around avoiding splashing at sensitive parts, and a road bike is easier to work with, as well as wax lubricant, hydraulic brakes, electrical shifting, glossy paints all helps keep a simpler, cleaner bike to start with. Just additional vacuum cleaning to wrap up the job. I do use chain cleaner and water for drivetrain cleaning with usual chain cleaing tool, which help keeps water from all over the place. I confess that spinning the crank arm 30 plus revs each pass, 5 passes at least for cleaning chain a bit boring, even though I do it about every 500km ride, coinside with the recommendation of the drip wax lube I use.
Good video, and good comments. I really ought to do a better job cleaning my bike, I'm riding hundreds of miles a week, sometimes through wet, and I want this bike to last. So far so good for a year on this bike but I'm guessing my current level of care for the bike wouldn't last 10 years like this without a lot of repairing and replacing parts, and I should probably consider myself lucky that my drivetrain hasn't needed anything repaired or replaced for any bike in my life, while people who seem to conduct better routine cleaning and maintenance on their bikes have also had to routinely replace parts. I'm riding the heck out of this bike on rough streets, rough sidewalks, offroad, wet, and I'm taking it through dozens of 20-50 mile days in a row in between doing any kind of maintenance or cleaning at all, and sometimes months of that in between stripping it down and actually cleaning and oiling the chain. I'll consider myself lucky that it's still doing okay, and start taking better care of it.
I just use my handy leaf blower to dry my bike
Bit of bike cleaning, bit of gardening... happy days! 🙌
Another tip… Do not use soap with wax in it on your tires. I learned that one the hard way lol.
Eeek! 😬
I was told by my LBS to always lift the bike up by its handlebars after washing so as it stands on its back wheel. Old style frames have holes in to let the welding gases out during fabrication and water gets in during wet rides and during washing. Try it yourself youll be amazed at the amount of water that can come out.
I live in an apartment, or what you Europeans would call a flat :). Pressure washing is not an option. It's hand washing for me. I use microfiber and I've never had an issue with scratching. I don't know what microfiber towels you are using, but mine never scratch. I also don't have to worry about rust so much with hand washing. I clean and lube my drivetrain and apply any adjustment needed. Next I give my brake rotors a good wipe down with some isopropyl to remove any grime or dust (I ride in very dry areas, so mud is not an issue for me - it's mostly sand and fine dirt). Then I take a clean microfiber cloth and wipe down my forks (I ride mountain bikes). Finally I get another microfiber cloth and get it damp and spray some citrus based degreaser (which is paint friendly) on it and wipe down the frame. Then I wipe down again with another damp microfiber cloth, and a final wipe with a dry cloth to remove any residue. Finally I top up my air pressure if it's needed. If I'm feeling fancy I will wipe down the sidewalls of my tires with a shop towel too :)
When the bad weather season starts, I once clean the bike properly, and then I apply some special wax, which is used for vacuforming parts (e.g. canopies for model airplanes). When I used that wax once for such a part, I found out that remaining rests on the vacuformed part I could only remove with paint thinner, as it even resisted the use of cleaning alcohol (98% ethylalcohol), so it will easily resist salty water on the road in winter time. For original bike protection wax, there is alcohol sufficient. By doing so, it is sufficient just to use a watering can as long as the dirt is wet. One coating of wax is sufficient for about ten days, then I repeat the procedure. This year I will get me one of these water sprayers, which you have to kind of pump up (a friend of mine uses such a thing for his snake terrarium), then I have a little more power than just a watering can. The only mistake I made up to now was not drying my bike, which I will avoid in the future. I have to admit I thought it is not so bad. Concerning the waxed chain - try out the Squirt chain wax for e-bikes. I suppose the main goal here was to create a wax that is more resistant against being washed out (as the typical e-biker won't look after his bike to often), and less a fast running chain, which indeed is not so important in winter time
Schwalbe has a really nice soft brush washing set
Awesome tips.
Also bounce the bike a few times to shake some of the water out of nooks and crannies
Ollie! You make me laugh! 😅Thanks for the clarification.I enjoyed the video. But, you used the same microfiber for the frame and crankest? you will do some scratches 😅
Waxing my chains has made cleaning my bikes so much easier. Take the chain off, put it in the pot to re-apply the wax wash the bike. No chain cleaners, and the whole drivetrain is just cleaner. It’s the best.
I'm glad his front tire swings like a pendulum around the 7:00 mark. Mine does the same thing and I didn't know if that was just me or not.
So I follow up some good advise and bought myself a parktool bike stand. After first time cleaning my bike on it it got rust spots on it. Now I don't know if I want to use it again for cleaning because maybe its better for my bike, but I also don't want to ruin my bike stand.
While bicycle technology has advanced by leaps and bounds, bike stands are still stuck in the 1980s. I don't see why we can't have carbon fiber bike stands that are stronger, lighter, and more corrosion resistant than steel.
A Leaf blower works great to dry your bike, and consider a spray on wax product like FW1 cleaning and waxing. This is great on your frame and deep dish wheels, makes then shine and they attract less dirt and dust.
Those Pirelli soft tyres look great on your bike Ollie!
1. Get a stand for the bike so it does not fall over
2. Hose down the bike before anything else, so the dirt is not used as sand paper when scrubbing. The chain can be removed if waxed.
3. Be cautious about pressure washers - they can be used with caution.
4. Don't use brushes on the frame but a micro fiber wash mitt or similar.
Optional tip use a grid guard. A comment suggested using another bucket with water to clean the mitt in between the bucket with soap.
He then mentions the risks of using wasing up liquid compared to a dedicated bike product. A comment suggested shampoo as a cheap option.
5. Don't contaminate the brakes. Use a spray-on instead of aerosol. Wipe the product off ITF it hits the brake.
6. Dry off your bike afterwards. E.g. bringing it inside with a air dehumidifier. Wiping is also good.
One good option to dry your bike is a simple old fashioned hair dryer using the cold air setting. works pretty good! definately recommended
Use a leaf blower to dry :)
Don’t get conned into buying fancy cleaning products that are “made for bikes”. You can pick up car shampoo without wax which is a pH neutral cleaner for little money. You can grab a clean empty spray bottle and mix up 1 part car shampoo to 10 parts water to spray on the bike after the initial rinse to start the wash process before coming in with a microfibre cleaning mitt for the frame and a soft cleaning brush for the rest of it. You can also pick up a large bottle of degreaser from most DIY stores which is much better value.
After the final rinse use a leaf blower to remove most of the water and a smallish microfibre drying towel to finish off before applying the lube!
The slight diss on everyone who uses brush car washes
I like taking my bike for a dip in the sea! Gets rid of all the dirt! ......Noooooo, seriously thanks for the tips. Years ago I used to wash my bike with dishwashing detergent. It made the breaks squeal, decreased their performance and also made the finish look dull. I have used proper stuff since then but have not seen the pre wash - rinse - main wash process before. I will do this from now on.
1. My roadbike (
What if it is below 0 outside and you cant use a hose. Or you live in an apartment and don't have access to a hose. Is there a good way to wash a bike indoors?
Immediately after a ride I hose down the bike (if dirty) then put it in the van for drive home... The vibrations then cause vast amount of water to drop of.
Once home I put my 2kw fan heater in the van for an hour....
Polish up with a microfiber cloth if necessary. Job done
I use a leaf blower for drying, and it does a very good job
Hmmm! Look in any auto shop and the shelves are filled with a multitude of auto detergents, wash-n-waxes, waxes, polishes, dozens of brands. But how different are they really? Put a kitchen lable on the bottle and it'll be cheap, put a car lable on it and the price goes up, put a motorcycle label on it and it'll go up again, put a bicycle on it and the small print ishould include, "I saw you coming". I'm currently in the middle east and I needed some degreaser to clean my chain. The only bottle of "engine degreaser" the shop had was a 500ml kitchen type spray bottle, the liquid was luminous green, and smelt like Mr Muscle oven cleaner. (Nothing like 5L of clear no-nonense Screwfix degreaser I have at home). Even so, it worked a treat but, next time I'll buy a bottle of much cheaper oven cleaner.
I use a mini leaf blower to dry my bikes and it’s perfect. Very small and compact but powerful and capable to get any water off the bike
Cheers from the Great White North 🇨🇦 Also any thoughts on using a nozzle pressure pump handsprayer to foam up your bike after the rinse & before the bucket N mitt contact wash?
GOOD WORK
Oh boy! Time for our annual new GCN bike cleaning video. I wonder what will be different this time??
Bike wash videos never gets boring 😂😂😂😂....go on loop on youtube
I prefer to wash my bike with the wheels off. That way my brakes don't get contaminated , I can clean the seat stays, chain stays & fork easily, and it protects the hubs from the washing liquids.
💯💯💯
I've generally been using Si's old 20 min bike wash vid (minus using washing up liquid and WD40!) so I clean the bike top down and then the chain on the bike, before taking the wheels off to clean them, the cassette and inside the forks and stays.
I use a leaf blower to dry my bike now. Works perfectly!
Great tips! I’m trying to get back in to cycling after a 5 yr hiatus. You mentioned PPF which is something I recently did to my car. This reminded me of another thing I’ve done to my car, Ceramic Coating. Would doing this to my bike ruin it or protect it more? 🤷🏻♂️🤔
When I clean my bike I remove the chain and wheels, and wash the wheels separately. Do you foresee any issues with removing wheels?
Me too. Bar chain.
Buen trabajo...bellas bicis
Generally great tips. I prefer the two-bucket method with a grid guard, and I disagree about using a mitt instead of a soft brush. A good soft brush with an open structure allows the water and smaller sand particles to flush away more easily. A mitt will keep more of these sand particles in and will easily scratch the bike.
after a rainy ride I splash boiling water on my disc rotors, hubs, chain ring. then wipe with a soapy sponge, then wash as usual. helps remove oil that comes from road splashes (probably from leaky motorcycles and cars on city roads).
I use GT85 as water dispersant anti-corrosion spray successfully on my commute bike that's ridden year round, if you have discs Tru Tension sell a Grime guard to protect discs from overspray.
Genial!! Excelente trabajo👍🏻✨
Thanks Ollie - i probably fall on the over careful cleaner. So if the bike gets (wet) dirty like yesterday then its hosed down, MO94 spray, dried off and left in the lounge over night (i have an understanding wife). Then every 300km the chain is degresed, and Ceramic Speed UFO Drip applied - again left indoors at least over night.
BTW i took it in for its annual service and the guy said it looked brand new (it's 3 yrs old) - so clearly my cleaning regime is working.
The only issue i've had is on last service the headset bearings had rusted and needed replacing - after that i've stopped using the Muc Off Power Washer, even though as you say it should be ok.
Happy Days
On my matte black Foil, I use glass cleaner post drying to really make it pristine.
Very good 👍🏼
My addl comments;
1. You can use light liquid detergent soap to wash your bike frames, spokes, rims using sponge.. just only remove sticky matls. Wash with clean water until the detergent is thorougly removed.
2. For bike chain, pedals, druellers.. mix water w small amount of liquid detergent soap using “ toothbrush” to clean thoroughly first the chain (all surface) to remove dirt and grease, for druellers brush bolt joints, spring to remove inserted small particles, brush your pedal’s tooth to remove dirt and grease…
3. For Drying..
In tropical countries it is very easier to let your bike dry… during rainy season, leave your clean bike in an open space using electric fan until your chain is fully dry…
4. MAINTENANCE:
In my 25 yrs as a biker fanatics, of course together w my cycling club, a spoonful of crude oil will do the greasing of your entire bike.
- BIKE CHAIN/ DRUELLERS, PEDALS, a spoonful of crude oil is sufficient enough to grease these parts. Use tootbrush ( fine) , dip portion toothbrush into the crude oil and apply to your chain ( top, bottom, 2 sides) while you handedly roll your pedals slowly, same brush your sprocket while rool your pedal, brush also druellers specially at springs, bolt joints, wheel, while rooling..after applied, hand roll your pedal about 3 minutes ( min.) until you hear that smooth, frictionless sound.. leave it there for about less than hour..
- FRAMES, BRAKES HANDLE. ETC
- dip clean white cotton rug w crude oill… apply on your frames, and parts of your bike, ie spokes, wheel frames, handle bars, etc..
Make sure use only small amount of crude oil, a spoonful of it is sufficient enough for the entire bike.
Oh, and if you do keep bikes in a shed use a couple of mega moisture traps during winter, helps keep your bikes rust free.
After washing my own bike i use a hand held small elecric leaf blower which works a treat on removing excess water .
I own a good steam cleaner for other reasons and I have turned it on really dirty bike gears of a used bike I bought, and that was appropriate for that bicycle at that time, but I do worry about it getting into crevices where you do not want moisure.
In addition, I always remove my wheels and use a "dummy" hub. Question, what is best way to remove sealant from carbon frame? Thanks!
My new Time Alpe d'Huez will be delivered in the next 2 weeks and I'll be putting Ridewrap on the most vulnerable parts of the frame, i.e. downtube, chain stays, seat tube. I use the 3 bucket method for my car (1 for wheels, 1 for washing , 1 for rinsing the wash mitt), but for my bike I use a few microfiber towels and 1 bucket, making sure that I dont put the dirt from my bike into the clean water/soap. Just switch towels as they get dirty. I hardly ever need more than 3. Just a question about drying the bike with an air compressor.....won't that force the moisture into the bearings (headset, BB and hubs)??
Get a Connex quick link which is designed for multiple uses, unlike the original one for the chain (which most people use a dozen times)
Using a bike stand, the best place to clamp is the seat post? Is there a tip to ensure I don't over-tighten the clamp?
Use turpentine to clean the chain instead of degreaser. Degreaser interferes with the chain lube unless you really wash and scrub it off.
Petrol my friend. That is your chain's BEST friend!
Gran video gracias por compartir
Man, this is way too complicated. People ride their bikes on gravel, then worry about washing scratches? This is 90% ridiculous overkill.
Use a leaf blower to dry you bike after cleaning
I use car shampoo but I do do a prewash with snow foam. Basically I do the same for the bike(s) as my car. Takes time so I always ensure I have a decent slot to do it properly.
"Or if you're American "Dish soap"."
I chuckled lmaoo
Expensive ‘bike wash’ = cheapest possible dish soap 😂.
40+ years of dish soap here, all good. In a pickle I’ve used shampoo, too.
Air compressors often have lubricating oils and other impure moistures in the tanks. Leaf blowers for the win!