For a permanent fix: 1 tablespoon of Table Salt and 1 cup of Vinegar will remove the corrosion from the copper wire in minutes. Then use baking soda and water to cancel the acid of the vinegar solution. Dry thoroughly, crimp tightly and then add a few drops of liquid flux. Use a very high heat iron or small torch to solder the wire to the connector, letting the solder flow into the stranded wires.
Once again we go back to your normal starting point - powers and grounds. A lot of people fail to understand how important good terminal ends are on the battery and why - and you just showed both!
Ha! I was crimping a large cable end with vise grips one day, with my 30 yr old son helping me in the shop, I crimped it as far as I could then gave the pliers another twist and could not close them, so I told him, "here you're younger than me, grab these and clamp them shut". He couldn't, so I grabbed a hold and closed them. He said "dammit Dad. How in the hell can you squeeze that?!?" I told him "remember that if you ever wonder whether or not you want me grabbing you". ;)
Good for you, to actually hunt down the problem before trying to fix things. Most of us can't hold ourselves back, we tighten and clean cable connections to save a minute of time. Half way through, when the problem is harder to find, we begin to doubt....
Home gamer here. Great diagnosis, proof of concept and fix. I'm proud to say that between what I've learned here and from SMA, I came to the same conclusion based on symptoms - check the heavy powers & grounds through the starter circuit and see where the angry pixies are struggling to get through.
Alright, I know this is gonna sound crazy….but….Ivan is not a human. He is an Advanced Alien species with superior magical mechanical powers who was sent to earth to fix silly human inferior vehicles without needing to purchase parts. Seriously no other explanation for his level of skills. His “Russian” background is just a cover story. Convince me otherwise if you can. 😂😂. Ivan you’re amazing man. I love learning from you brother.
You should start selling t-shirts with " Pine Hollow - No Parts Required!" printed on it. I'd get some, just out of thanks for you posting your videos.
Great job Ivan...... I had a loose block ground on my Toyota that caused intermittent issues... the engine just stopped running every now and then. I believe you would have diagnosed that issue pretty quickly. It took me quite some time and frustration to fix it; including Toyota service costly misdiagnosis. Cure: Tighten block ground bolt! Cost: $750.00 for unneeded repairs.
That negative battery cable clamp is junk. I went through this with my 06 Nissan Frontier 4.0L V6 on the positive cable end. It would not tighten down. I replaced it with a brass cable end. The negative cable terminal on that Armada had corrosion and heat affect it by removing the coating and exposing the copper. A stronger cable terminal is needed. Having the cable strands exposed is not good. A round closed end terminal is needed to eliminate dirt, air, moisture and corrosion intrusion.
Good find Ivan. That connector had problems before and will have problems in the future. I would recommend replacing that Negative cable. They are relatively cheap, and a repeat failure could be very inconvenient and expensive.
Ivan, I agree with Stealth. Additionally, your reputation is at stake. The cable is less than $13 on RockAuto. Say, ~$20 with shipping. Probably $25 at the parts store. The customer should know that for a ~$100 additional they will never have this problem again in the life of the vehicle.
FWIW When the battery is on the way out, some Ford models will do the needle tremor on start up like whats happening on that Nissan. The battery in such cases with the F150 etc, appears to start the vehicle ok but its actually in the very early stages of going bad when tested.
You can hear the mode door or blend air door actuator ticking in the background when he was starting the car. My neighbor has the same car with all three actuators ticking.
I would apply some solder to the crimp lug just in case the same thing happens again,it will provide better continuity as well. That's because this afternoon that dreaded Ford Falcon (Futura) cut out on me with the replacement ECU,the old one has damage to one of the resistors inside of it which is why I replaced it,I put it down to a faulty EFI relay which was causing the engine to cut out as well but the battery terminals were also loose as well. I went through & soldered the crimped on battery terminals to make sure there is good continuity, it's something which is done in car sound systems where gold plated battery terminals are used,the terminals are soldered for better electrical continuity. I know that I shouldn't have to go to that extent with a car because I've never had that much trouble with a Holden which is a GM make of car,the Ford is someone elses. I know that Chrysler solder the crimp terminals in their Jeeps for example !
I'd have removed the eye and crimped a new one on, using a proper crimp tool rather than vice grips. Would have cost pennies but is the correct way to repair this.
This content is so useful! It’s simple enough that any driver can apply it. Admittedly, some of your videos are above my understanding but this is very practical.
Love these NPR videos. Stay cool my friend. Oh BTW Saturn Astra getting new exhaust from cat back also new A/C pressure sensor.. Maybe I'll record some of it.
Cooool! Gotta love weird electrical problems. I had a client who have 2007 Saturn Aura. She stated battery dies and jump start attempts failed. I looked at it. Battery is not dead 🤔. Whole dashboard dead I mean there no power. Volt meter is still same (12.4) no dropping when cranking. I get power back by moving cables. I saw positive battery cable and wire are dangling and exposed, not touching battery post. It was covered with black tape too. Previous guy must did a bad job on cable/terminals. I wish I can send you picture. It’s bad 🤣. Nice job.
I had a similar one helping a stranded random stranger. But it had dash lights. First I noticed loose battery terminals. Fixed that but no better. I had my multimeter so I checked the block ground lead voltage drop - I think it was 9V across the crimp on the terminal to the chassis rail from the block. A little wiggle and you could feel it was down to just a few stands left connected. Just like this video, I rigged a jumper cable as a ground wire just to get it started.
@UCMLcCPSBrC1L_HT3TcLSZ4g And why not, they're just pliers and provide extra leverage to make sure it's tight, oh and by the way it's you're not your, dumbass, you're is a contraction for you are, your is possessive, as in your hands or your mind etc, a little English grammer and spelling lesson no extra charge.
I just replaced the starter in my 97 F-150 this week. I went through an almost identical test as you did in this video, but with mine, the starter was getting proper voltage right on the wire going into the brushes, but wouldn't crank. The tap on the starter test was a no go. Well it lasted from 1997 to 2021 so I'm not complaining.
My 2004 Sequoia has the 4.7 V8 has similar mileage and it has the same engine tick on startup. Replacing the exhaust manifold is a pretty big job so will live with it for now. May decide to get some new headers in the future, will see.
The melted insulation was the only thermal image needed on this one... Two lots of insulation tape told us it was clearly not a new problem for this vehicle! Shame nobody joined the dots earlier, but see this so many times.
There are few cases for pressure washing anything. It's quick and easy, but only in the short term. If you do it to concrete, you remove the sand and make it a better home for dirt an lichen - effectively meaning you're going to have to keep doing it at ever decreasing intervals. If you do it to a house timber cladding before painting, you're forcing moisture into the timber which you don't want. If you do it to long run roofing iron, you're damaging the fastener seals which can create leaks. If you do it to anything that has a bearing or electrical connector, you need shooting.
TH-cam ate my comment :-( Ill try again: Well done ivan :-D High resistance connectons are so sneaky, they are a sleeper just waiting to fail. When i used to work in a auto factory, i had to solder battery cables. If the strands were clean the solder would flow, but there were times i had to clean and tin each strand. The solder flowed so much better :-D I find vicegrips so so handy, a great american invention :-D
My 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 starter tested good at Auto Zone Auto Parts and at O'Riley auto parts. Brand new battery, check the flywheel teeth and look fine. turn the engine by hand and it rotates without problem, when I turn the key to start, I hear the starter spinning [weeze sound].
Good job in the parking lot. I'd still get a propane torch and some solder on that fitting or find a better negative cable terminal to replace that thin design.
I always crimp+solder terminals like that that are outside in the elements, it prevents the water from getting inside the wire and corroding it internally
soldered terminals are dangerous at high currents and best avoided. I saw a $5 million satellite ground station go up in flames traced to soldered wire ends under screw terminals and the same issue applies to crimps Solder creeps under pressure and the resistance goes up which means they start getting hot and then the solder creeps more, leading to intermittency or full on failure A properly done crimp has contact pressures of hundreds of tons per square inch and the metals cold weld into place after a few months. Never reuse a crimp and never "do it twice to be sure" - this almost always destroys 90% of the crimp strength, resulting in premature failure A properly done crimp should have a service life of 30-50 years. Soldered joints are about half that
@@miscbits6399 except you didn't understand what exactly I said. As you said, if you first solder, then crimp, that would be bad, as the solder would creep away leading to a loose connection. BUT if you first crimp, THEN solder, the crimp has already taken place before you add the solder, which fills in the extra space left between the wire strands, preventing corrosion, and making a BETTER mechanical connection. Similarly, you could not crimp at all and just solder, there would be no creep issues then, but would be less secure than crimping in case the lug gets loose, heats up and melts the solder. Again, the solder only holds the lug onto the wire, and doesn't transfer ANY force, so there are no creep issues. For example, big wires where you need a lot of force to properly crimp a lug, I usually solder, and I haven't had any issues yet (battery cables, ground cables, starter cables,...)
@@brainndamage I agree on that. Besides, if someone is soldering a multi million dollar item to go the distance, likely they'd use silver solder or something similar.
bad grounds will get your customers every time...... To their eyes it all looks fine >>>>>>>>NO NO NO!!!! Bad connections That's ALL!!!!! Nice fix brother!!!!
Ivan, I know it’s the wrong answer, but as you’re explaining what happened to the truck, the first thought that popped into my head after I heard the starter, was “oh they got water in the engine from the power washer, and now it’s hydraulic-ed.”
I guess either there was still some voltage drop which a module didn't like which caused the funny needle behavior with the jumper cable bypass test, OR and similarly, some module saw low voltage during crank and delayed turning itself on after crank just as kind of a power saving thing.
Mines was doing the same thing I thought it was dead so I hooked jump box to it and it made the jump box overheat could that issue cause what happened to my jump box?
it also works for leaking dry and alkaline cells if you've ever had batteries leak in a remote. It's Duracell's recommended cleanup method (they leak occasionally, despite the claims)
If voltage drops real low during crank, it seems as though the gauge cluster does some sort of recalibration reset on its own with almost all 03-05+ nissan's with visteon manufactured gauge clusters, pretty typical to a situation like this or bad battery.
Nice diagnosis and fix as usual Ivan! You know what's really weird, after watching your video the next video that comes up was Eric's video from a year ago about the exact same thing. A groundwire causing a no start.. Kind of funny
I never trust crimp connections, especially on high current applications. DeoxIT is good stuff but it doesn't last forever. A little solder will secure that connection for the life of the car.
Hello sir ihave problem with ford focus st 2014 2.0l petrol my customer drive this car 3month ago everything will be fine no problem but now ihave trouble with this car no start no cluster lights I can check the all fuse and wiring we check already power ground and can network everything is okay can you let me now waht I should next can I Cheng the bcm or waht I do thanku
I had the very same problem with the red cable the car would drain the battery and not start very easy arfter some fairly up liquid it now runs perfect
There’s your problem lady, you got a case of the green crusties. As a suggestion for a future video how about explain the concept of voltage drop.most techs I know don’t understand it, instead relying upon codes and parts cannon - many batteries and starters !
Exactly ...sounds horrible think once those oil lines blew they did t realize it in time..Also looks like it's over filled once the pulled the dip stick...I bet it was over filled and that's what caused it to blow lines...
you'd be amazed what people do. One of my cow-orkers filled his car up with oil unti the fill level was visible at the filler neck. Apparently nobody ever told him how to use a dipstick or to check the manual for recommended volume (he's in his 40s) The effect of a crankcase literally full of oil was as expected (byebye engine)
Привет Иван! Что-то ремонт клеммы, не выглядит долговечным... Гарантию давать я бы не стал. Я купил себе гидравлический обжимной инструмент. Обжимает шестигранником. Работать стало в удовольствие...
For a permanent fix: 1 tablespoon of Table Salt and 1 cup of Vinegar will remove the corrosion from the copper wire in minutes. Then use baking soda and water to cancel the acid of the vinegar solution. Dry thoroughly, crimp tightly and then add a few drops of liquid flux. Use a very high heat iron or small torch to solder the wire to the connector, letting the solder flow into the stranded wires.
Some time ago saw Edd China (of Wheeler Dealer fame) in his TH-cam channel fixing corroded wire using method you just described :)
Mmmmm salt and vinegar. I'd be too tempted to put it on my chips.
and finish the repair by coating the connection with a little silicon grease.
Once again we go back to your normal starting point - powers and grounds. A lot of people fail to understand how important good terminal ends are on the battery and why - and you just showed both!
Ha! I was crimping a large cable end with vise grips one day, with my 30 yr old son helping me in the shop, I crimped it as far as I could then gave the pliers another twist and could not close them, so I told him, "here you're younger than me, grab these and clamp them shut". He couldn't, so I grabbed a hold and closed them. He said "dammit Dad. How in the hell can you squeeze that?!?" I told him "remember that if you ever wonder whether or not you want me grabbing you". ;)
Good for you, to actually hunt down the problem before trying to fix things. Most of us can't hold ourselves back, we tighten and clean cable connections to save a minute of time. Half way through, when the problem is harder to find, we begin to doubt....
Just wanted to stop in and hopefully you get to read this. You're doing great work keep it up.
Wow, so simple diagnosis!! Bad ground! I would have thought to get aoem ground strap and replace it!! But gotta love NPR jobs!! Great video!!
Ivan you should trade mark the 'No Parts Required' line.. 😛 I bet the customer was pleased when they heard it fire up! Skills as always.
Home gamer here. Great diagnosis, proof of concept and fix. I'm proud to say that between what I've learned here and from SMA, I came to the same conclusion based on symptoms - check the heavy powers & grounds through the starter circuit and see where the angry pixies are struggling to get through.
Alright, I know this is gonna sound crazy….but….Ivan is not a human. He is an Advanced Alien species with superior magical mechanical powers who was sent to earth to fix silly human inferior vehicles without needing to purchase parts. Seriously no other explanation for his level of skills. His “Russian” background is just a cover story. Convince me otherwise if you can. 😂😂. Ivan you’re amazing man. I love learning from you brother.
Nah, he is just an actual true blue old school style mechanic. Not just a parts changer.
Just a regular tech
"I don't know why you people think this is some kind of magic, it's just this little chromium switch here "
I concur!
You should start selling t-shirts with " Pine Hollow - No Parts Required!" printed on it. I'd get some, just out of thanks for you posting your videos.
I just did the Big 4 upgrade on my xterra. It absolutely roars to life now. New ground cables make a big difference.
hifi man lol mamon
That tape may have actually held moisture underneath it leading to corrosion over time.
I bet the chemicals used during the pressure washing/degreasing helped expedite the corrosion process.
I enjoy watching you solve these little mind boggling mysteries makes it look so simple. Thank You😎👍🏼
Great job Ivan...... I had a loose block ground on my Toyota that caused intermittent issues... the engine just stopped running every now and then. I believe you would have diagnosed that issue pretty quickly. It took me quite some time and frustration to fix it; including Toyota service costly misdiagnosis. Cure: Tighten block ground bolt! Cost: $750.00 for unneeded repairs.
Man I learned something today. Wow. Didn’t realize you could do a voltage drop test on the ground to check it. Subscribed!
That negative battery cable clamp is junk. I went through this with my 06 Nissan Frontier 4.0L V6 on the positive cable end. It would not tighten down. I replaced it with a brass cable end. The negative cable terminal on that Armada had corrosion and heat affect it by removing the coating and exposing the copper. A stronger cable terminal is needed. Having the cable strands exposed is not good. A round closed end terminal is needed to eliminate dirt, air, moisture and corrosion intrusion.
Emergency repair, but new earth strap needed for reliabile repair.
Good find Ivan. That connector had problems before and will have problems in the future. I would recommend replacing that Negative cable. They are relatively cheap, and a repeat failure could be very inconvenient and expensive.
Ivan, I agree with Stealth. Additionally, your reputation is at stake. The cable is less than $13 on RockAuto. Say, ~$20 with shipping. Probably $25 at the parts store. The customer should know that for a ~$100 additional they will never have this problem again in the life of the vehicle.
Agreed. That's a "get you home" repair, not a permanent fix (guaranteed the owner will leave it forever)
Everything is a temporary fix unless it works. 😁
Love it NPR ! Thanks for sharing Ivan.
Deoxit, i like the needle applicator. Really enjoy your evidence based deductive method.
FWIW When the battery is on the way out, some Ford models will do the needle tremor on start up like whats happening on that Nissan. The battery in such cases with the F150 etc, appears to start the vehicle ok but its actually in the very early stages of going bad when tested.
Having a bit of same problem with my Xterra , after replacing old battery and ignition starter switch . Thanks for giving me something else to try .
You can hear the mode door or blend air door actuator ticking in the background when he was starting the car. My neighbor has the same car with all three actuators ticking.
Thanks, I was wondering what that noise was.
been there, forget to tighten bolt with ground strap around it after replacing transmission mount
I would apply some solder to the crimp lug just in case the same thing happens again,it will provide better continuity as well.
That's because this afternoon that dreaded Ford Falcon (Futura) cut out on me with the replacement ECU,the old one has damage to one of the resistors inside of it which is why I replaced it,I put it down to a faulty EFI relay which was causing the engine to cut out as well but the battery terminals were also loose as well.
I went through & soldered the crimped on battery terminals to make sure there is good continuity, it's something which is done in car sound systems where gold plated battery terminals are used,the terminals are soldered for better electrical continuity.
I know that I shouldn't have to go to that extent with a car because I've never had that much trouble with a Holden which is a GM make of car,the Ford is someone elses.
I know that Chrysler solder the crimp terminals in their Jeeps for example !
I wouldn’t. With that much current flow just a crimp is best in my opinion.
@T.J. Kong agreed.
I'd have removed the eye and crimped a new one on, using a proper crimp tool rather than vice grips. Would have cost pennies but is the correct way to repair this.
@@ferrumignis Yeah but looks like this was done in a pinch... ;-)
This content is so useful! It’s simple enough that any driver can apply it.
Admittedly, some of your videos are above my understanding but this is very practical.
Excellent downrange field repair, I found myself diagnosing my own meter this evening, sadly I think it's time has come
Great detective work sorting it all out.
Love these NPR videos. Stay cool my friend. Oh BTW Saturn Astra getting new exhaust from cat back also new A/C pressure sensor.. Maybe I'll record some of it.
This video literally just saved my life.
WOW that is amazing 😮😀
Cooool! Gotta love weird electrical problems. I had a client who have 2007 Saturn Aura. She stated battery dies and jump start attempts failed. I looked at it. Battery is not dead 🤔. Whole dashboard dead I mean there no power. Volt meter is still same (12.4) no dropping when cranking. I get power back by moving cables. I saw positive battery cable and wire are dangling and exposed, not touching battery post. It was covered with black tape too. Previous guy must did a bad job on cable/terminals. I wish I can send you picture. It’s bad 🤣. Nice job.
I had a similar one helping a stranded random stranger. But it had dash lights. First I noticed loose battery terminals. Fixed that but no better. I had my multimeter so I checked the block ground lead voltage drop - I think it was 9V across the crimp on the terminal to the chassis rail from the block. A little wiggle and you could feel it was down to just a few stands left connected. Just like this video, I rigged a jumper cable as a ground wire just to get it started.
@@TonyRule yeah, poor battery connection can do crazy.
You are good for a reason Ivan! You think things through! Powers and grounds 101.
"The cars that can jump themselves". I like that.
They still need to replace that cable with a factory piece not some parts store junk.
Someone’s head is gonna explode for using vise grips as a crimping tool 😂
👌😎
your not supposed to use vice grips as a crimping tool you dumbass 😂.
@UCMLcCPSBrC1L_HT3TcLSZ4g And why not, they're just pliers and provide extra leverage to make sure it's tight, oh and by the way it's you're not your, dumbass, you're is a contraction for you are, your is possessive, as in your hands or your mind etc, a little English grammer and spelling lesson no extra charge.
@@Peter-pv8xx it was a fucking joke dude
real crimpers are abour $30, worth keeping in the toolbox
I just replaced the starter in my 97 F-150 this week. I went through an almost identical test as you did in this video, but with mine, the starter was getting proper voltage right on the wire going into the brushes, but wouldn't crank. The tap on the starter test was a no go. Well it lasted from 1997 to 2021 so I'm not complaining.
I've seen the braided wire from the solenoid to the motor corrode and fall apart haha
My 2004 Sequoia has the 4.7 V8 has similar mileage and it has the same engine tick on startup. Replacing the exhaust manifold is a pretty big job so will live with it for now. May decide to get some new headers in the future, will see.
Love the air blend door Motor banging in the background. Good video Ivan.
Wow. The air blend door. I have an Infiniti G37X that makes 13 clicks every time I start it. Mystery solved.
NPR! Well done Ivan. Thanks!
First step of any automotive diagnosis... "THOROUGH VISUAL INSPECTION" 😎
Not necessarily... You have to collect some data to know what to look for!!
Boy I don’t like those thin ends on that cable. Nice quick diag. and repair Ivan. A little Russian Ingenuity, no parts required.
Time to get out the thermal imager!
FLIR for the win!!!!!
The melted insulation was the only thermal image needed on this one... Two lots of insulation tape told us it was clearly not a new problem for this vehicle!
Shame nobody joined the dots earlier, but see this so many times.
@@simonparkinson1053 yeah, after watching the video it became even easier. I posted before watching it. ;)
Scotty Kilmer says you shouldn't pressure wash the engine. Great video!
There are few cases for pressure washing anything. It's quick and easy, but only in the short term. If you do it to concrete, you remove the sand and make it a better home for dirt an lichen - effectively meaning you're going to have to keep doing it at ever decreasing intervals. If you do it to a house timber cladding before painting, you're forcing moisture into the timber which you don't want. If you do it to long run roofing iron, you're damaging the fastener seals which can create leaks. If you do it to anything that has a bearing or electrical connector, you need shooting.
@@TonyRule You are not a big fan of pressure washing, are you?!
@@blockbertus Whatever gave you that impression? haha
@@TonyRule I dont know. Must be some kind of hunch I guess. ;-)
@@blockbertus Yeah, I would like to know what tipped you off?
I love your bonus footage
Never thought of proving the ground with a meter, have jumpered a ground before to confirm
Pretty cheesy terminal to begin with. I would replace it, NPR notwithstanding. Been there, done that.
I wanted to see you solder like you said you were going to do and complete the job!
Great skills Sir, repair nicely done. Good video stay safe and healthy thanks 😊
TH-cam ate my comment :-(
Ill try again: Well done ivan :-D
High resistance connectons are so sneaky, they are a sleeper just waiting to fail.
When i used to work in a auto factory, i had to solder battery cables.
If the strands were clean the solder would flow, but there were times i had to clean and tin each strand.
The solder flowed so much better :-D
I find vicegrips so so handy, a great american invention :-D
Nice 👌
My 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 starter tested good at Auto Zone Auto Parts and at O'Riley auto parts. Brand new battery, check the flywheel teeth and look fine. turn the engine by hand and it rotates without problem, when I turn the key to start, I hear the starter spinning [weeze sound].
Great job as always. I learn something new from all your videos. Keep up the great work!!!!
Good diagnosis but replace the cable corrosion has already set in the terminal will corrode soon without proper sealing.
very good. I'm kinda shocked the CEL didn't light up like a Christmas tree with all that spurious voltage freaking everything out.
Good job in the parking lot. I'd still get a propane torch and some solder on that fitting or find a better negative cable terminal to replace that thin design.
I always crimp+solder terminals like that that are outside in the elements, it prevents the water from getting inside the wire and corroding it internally
I usually also use heatshrink with glue
soldered terminals are dangerous at high currents and best avoided. I saw a $5 million satellite ground station go up in flames traced to soldered wire ends under screw terminals and the same issue applies to crimps
Solder creeps under pressure and the resistance goes up which means they start getting hot and then the solder creeps more, leading to intermittency or full on failure
A properly done crimp has contact pressures of hundreds of tons per square inch and the metals cold weld into place after a few months. Never reuse a crimp and never "do it twice to be sure" - this almost always destroys 90% of the crimp strength, resulting in premature failure
A properly done crimp should have a service life of 30-50 years. Soldered joints are about half that
@@miscbits6399 except you didn't understand what exactly I said. As you said, if you first solder, then crimp, that would be bad, as the solder would creep away leading to a loose connection. BUT if you first crimp, THEN solder, the crimp has already taken place before you add the solder, which fills in the extra space left between the wire strands, preventing corrosion, and making a BETTER mechanical connection. Similarly, you could not crimp at all and just solder, there would be no creep issues then, but would be less secure than crimping in case the lug gets loose, heats up and melts the solder. Again, the solder only holds the lug onto the wire, and doesn't transfer ANY force, so there are no creep issues.
For example, big wires where you need a lot of force to properly crimp a lug, I usually solder, and I haven't had any issues yet (battery cables, ground cables, starter cables,...)
@@brainndamage I agree on that. Besides, if someone is soldering a multi million dollar item to go the distance, likely they'd use silver solder or something similar.
bad grounds will get your customers every time...... To their eyes it all looks fine >>>>>>>>NO NO NO!!!! Bad connections That's ALL!!!!! Nice fix brother!!!!
Voltmeter doesn't lie 😁
The power of knowledge
I can’t believe he crimped that with those pliers by hand. He got that Russian grip strength.
Fusible link assembly on the positive post. Entire thing was shorted after changing spark plugs.
Hopefully your still doing your magic? What is that clicking sound on the inside as your starting the Armada?
Great find ! Question from a novice? What must be the ground voltage "normal" drop ? Btw, new subscriber here.
Damn I was hoping for one of those elusive "NO CRANK START" jobs!
It's possible with a manual transmission.
@@Eric_the_Hiking Touche
Would you recommend buying a used Nissan Pathfinder armada over the same year Chevy Tahoe?
Great Video! But what's that "Thunking" sound when you turn the key on for the first few seconds? Blend door getting hung up/ striped temp door gear?
Looks like one of the last of the proper cars there in the background . Ford Focus Mk1
Ivan, I know it’s the wrong answer, but as you’re explaining what happened to the truck, the first thought that popped into my head after I heard the starter, was “oh they got water in the engine from the power washer, and now it’s hydraulic-ed.”
What was that loud tapping sound while you were starting it towards the end? I thought the engine was failing to start.
Ah, it also has the infamous Nissan 5.6 cracked manifold issue as well. My Titan had the same thing and they are NOT pleasant to replace. :/
I guess either there was still some voltage drop which a module didn't like which caused the funny needle behavior with the jumper cable bypass test, OR and similarly, some module saw low voltage during crank and delayed turning itself on after crank just as kind of a power saving thing.
Awesome and no parts required!!!
Mines was doing the same thing I thought it was dead so I hooked jump box to it and it made the jump box overheat could that issue cause what happened to my jump box?
Good diagnosis. Amigo. Nice video
Hey excellent video tutorial I see a lot of this on small engine equipment.
Baking soda n hot water does wonders to the greenies.
it also works for leaking dry and alkaline cells if you've ever had batteries leak in a remote. It's Duracell's recommended cleanup method (they leak occasionally, despite the claims)
Early early this time, keep up the good work 👌
👍😊
If voltage drops real low during crank, it seems as though the gauge cluster does some sort of recalibration reset on its own with almost all 03-05+ nissan's with visteon manufactured gauge clusters, pretty typical to a situation like this or bad battery.
What is the "de-oxit" compound that you used?
Battery corrosion protectant.
"Permatex 80370 Battery Protector and Sealer" for future prevention should also be used.
And so..the Spanish Armada was rescued from its electrical demise by Ivan the Conqueror😎👍
Great methodology Ivan you rock bro
Nice diagnosis and fix as usual Ivan! You know what's really weird, after watching your video the next video that comes up was Eric's video from a year ago about the exact same thing. A groundwire causing a no start.. Kind of funny
Was that the one where he said "watch this, folks - three, two, one (bloop)" and a green braided ground strap crumbled to powder ?
Was that the one where he said "watch this, folks - three, two, one (bloop)" and a green braided ground strap crumbled to powder ?
So cool and to the point, love it
If that is a factory ground it's a horrible design. Thanks again Ivan.
Did you use Deoxyit D5 spray? Heard deoxyit in the video but did not see a description or link. Looks like great stuff for battery corrosion.
Where did you get those aligator clips?
Very good video but I want to know where is the fuel pump relay
@@JesusPin-q5q inside the smart fuse box! Thus the bypass external relay install 😎👍
P1633 code Mazda 626 2.5 alternator been thrown at it. No change. Any help greatly appreciated
I never trust crimp connections, especially on high current applications. DeoxIT is good stuff but it doesn't last forever. A little solder will secure that connection for the life of the car.
Hello sir ihave problem with ford focus st 2014 2.0l petrol my customer drive this car 3month ago everything will be fine no problem but now ihave trouble with this car no start no cluster lights I can check the all fuse and wiring we check already power ground and can network everything is okay can you let me now waht I should next can I Cheng the bcm or waht I do thanku
I had the very same problem with the red cable the car would drain the battery and not start very easy arfter some fairly up liquid it now runs perfect
What was up with the oil pressure gauge? Pegged high?
That ever present blend door actuator on Nissan Armada/ Titan
Good job! 👍Were you the first one troubleshooting this truck? Or did someone else try to figure it out before?
The owner spent days on it... Might have even replaced the IPDM 🙄
Having the same problem 2012 Nissan Titian any help
There’s your problem lady, you got a case of the green crusties. As a suggestion for a future video how about explain the concept of voltage drop.most techs I know don’t understand it, instead relying upon codes and parts cannon - many batteries and starters !
Now that the behemoth starts and runs fine, advise the owner to sell it.
Exactly ...sounds horrible think once those oil lines blew they did t realize it in time..Also looks like it's over filled once the pulled the dip stick...I bet it was over filled and that's what caused it to blow lines...
The oil pressure gauge never wavered from the High range. Bad gauge or too much oil?
I guess too much oil. Have you seen how much was on that dipstick? Looks like it was WAY over full.
Another Great Video.
Besides the electrical problem, I could be totally wrong but it appears to me that the engine has too much oil, going by the dipstick and oil gauge.
you'd be amazed what people do. One of my cow-orkers filled his car up with oil unti the fill level was visible at the filler neck. Apparently nobody ever told him how to use a dipstick or to check the manual for recommended volume (he's in his 40s)
The effect of a crankcase literally full of oil was as expected (byebye engine)
Never never pressure wash a modern engine! Use degreaser on hot motor and let it cool use water nozzle at most covering ECM and alternator
don't pressure wash old engines either.
Spidey senses should be going ding ding ding if someone mentions doing this
Привет Иван! Что-то ремонт клеммы, не выглядит долговечным... Гарантию давать я бы не стал.
Я купил себе гидравлический обжимной инструмент. Обжимает шестигранником. Работать стало в удовольствие...