Hey Richie I watched Joes video first but couldn't dislodge the unit from the compartment. I just knew that there was something missing from Joe's video. When I viewed your I saw the two tabs at the top and saw that they were not hook types but a rounded compression clip. Slipped a couple of thin putty knives in the grove and that's all it took. Huge thanks for that little snippet of the top edge.
That is a good tip! But alas, our freezer stopped getting down to temperature and my attempts to repair failed. We have had an LG now for a couple of years ... I like the icemaker in the door for easy repair access (if needed) ... and Samsungs after ours had well known issues with their ice makers freezing up so did not want to chance buying another one. In any case I know that TH-cam will be there if help needed to fix our LG!
Just fixed mine and this video was a great help in providing the info I needed to get the job done quickly. Used a Slim prying tool under each nub and a mallet to get past the mineral buildup.
Thanks for the video. This filled in the gaps for me from the other video, particularly clipping the "nipples" (you highlighted them in green on your video). I used a thin hacksaw blade the cut them. the tabs did not create an issue in my case, it pulled right out once the nipples were cut.
This was incredibly helpful. I encountered the same problems you detailed that were keeping the old paddle from sliding out. I had to break the tabs on the old part and sand down the metal on the housing to slide the new part in. I would never had known if it weren't for your video. Here's to crushed ice once again! Thank you!
I had to use a butter knife to pry it open, thankfully without damage. Strength alone wasn't getting it done. One suggestion I'd make is just to cut the power to the refrigerator at the circuit breaker. It seems much safer than skipping it, and much easier than moving it to unplug it. My kitchen lights are on a different circuit, so it was perfect. After all time spent (about 1.5 hours total) coaxing off the panel, chipping away at the old unit, sanding down the metal housing, etc., moving a refrigerator would have been the last thing I wanted to do. Thanks again for this video!!
Thanks for the video!!! It was really helpful. I placed some duck tape around the panel to protect the stainless steel just overlapping the gaps. My refrigerator (Rf428hars/xaa) has a tab in the top middle and two on each side about 1 inch from corners. I locked the panel using the child lock function but I didn’t power off the refrig. Then I Inserted a thin bladed knife in the larger gag for the applicable tab and got things started. Then I just started prying around the refrig at the different tab location with butter knifes as the gaps got large enough. Eventually the panel popped off without using brute force which I think is a bad idea anyway. After getting the pane off, I broke off the vertical tabs and was able to remove the old paddle.
I also had some trouble removing the paddle assembly from the metal bracket due to corrosion and mineral buildup. Your video helped me identify the trouble spots. Some WD-40 and a little gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet solved the problem. Thanks for the video.
Ditto on the great video. Once I clipped the vertical tabs with a pair of sharp electrician's dikes, it slid right out. It's amazing that the tabs were so strong and holding so well, yet it was the same plastic that broke, causing the issue in the first place.
Yes, a great video that has almost got me through the fix. After putting it all back together everything works except for being able to switch between cubed and crashed ice. I'm guessing I have not got good contact between the plate that says "cubed ice/crushed ice" and the springs that touch or on the other end of the springs. Before I pull it back apart I thought I might ask for any insight someone might have. Right now we get cubed ice just fine. Cubed was what it was set on before I started the disassembly. Thanks, Bob
Thanks so much for the tips about the catches during removal. After some prying and lubing with silicone spray, I was able to slide that bad rabbit out of place, clean back up and then snap in the replacement piece.
Always good to get feedback! I understand the newer models have ice makers that freeze over. Our daughter has such a unit and they have to buy ice and keep in the freezer.
Great video! We had the same problem with the mineral deposits preventing the slide out. Put thin putty knife in-between the plastic to break the deposit hold..slid it all the way around. then lifted the nipple parts with two small eyeglass screwdrivers and it slid right out.
richie Used a rag in my hand, Brute quick! Force. My wife was getting a card to use. Before she came back it was out. WD -40 next hold screen in one hand with rag. Place rag on paddles. Hit it with a a hammer again quick! Clean it up, slide on new paddles, plug in cables, snap it back in place, plug it in and dispense ice for a drink!! Don’t be intimidated Just get in there and do it!
Just found your video. THANK YOU very much Very helpful. I love the SAMSUNG and this has been the only problem in many years. THANKS and again and Happy New Year, Cheers to 2021
Thanks for the feedback. I am still happy with ours - but our daughter and her husband have a newer one that has the ice maker issue that freezes up. They have to keep a store bought bag of ice in the freezer - so I would not buy a new one unless reviews indicate that issue was resolved. The flapper spring just broke on our door and I had to use an elastic band as a temporary fix, but a $12 replacement spring is on the way and a TH-cam video shows how to replace without any tools required.
TIP #1... to make the "yank out method" much easier = ok to gingerly pry w/ tip of a butter knife to pop the "face panel" out (i did so away from corners... thought I'd ruin the stainless steel, but it is nice and solid, thankfully)
I am a bit surprised by the number of views - 17,000 and counting. The average watch time is 2 minutes, and viewed from 5 countries. I hope Samsung realizes this might be a problem … though I love the refrigerator and would probably buy it again.
oh...one more tip, you need not yank the display panel out. Remove the screw first. Then use a putty knife to start open along the same side where the screw was put.
TIP #2... "green tabs" = you can insert 2 pennies in front of them after prying up w/ a little screwdriver = then slides apart (it's like needing 2 people to turn the nuclear keys apart from one another, the way the tabs seat... so un-seat them to slide)
I have the same frig (Samsung RF4287HARS-XAA) my paddles and switched are working fine, but ice and water only work some times. Icemaker is working fine, so any ideas on why the paddles are not working every time?
If you hear the click of the microswitches I can't be of much help. A wiring diagram, if you can find one, might give some clues. Seems like the water paddle should be the simplest since it activates the water solenoid, but don't know if that goes through a processor board or if it simply connects power to the water solenoid. If you find an answer be sure to let me know!
At a site like appliancepartspro.com or easyapplianceparts.com enter the exact model number of your Samsung refrigerator. The paddle assembly is about $115 or the paddle assembly including the display is about $235. If any doubt contact them directly to be sure you get the right part.
Instead of putty knife, Use credit cards, thin and strong. the two green tabs are what holds the levers in place, work those out with the putty knife and it comes out more easily. Not sure why but now my water dispenser isn't working!
Credit cards. I will have to try that next time, though I have told my wife that pressing on the ice paddle does make ice come out faster, so maybe the fix will last awhile. If your water does not work, does the water symbol light on the front panel? Tried reseting by unplugging and plugging back in? Hear the water solenoid clunk when pressed?
@@rgrams1 seems the right side of the water paddle works, just not "straight on" I may have done something strange, but everything works now an I couldn't have done it without your video! Forever grateful.
Hey Richie I watched Joes video first but couldn't dislodge the unit from the compartment. I just knew that there was something missing from Joe's video. When I viewed your I saw the two tabs at the top and saw that they were not hook types but a rounded compression clip. Slipped a couple of thin putty knives in the grove and that's all it took. Huge thanks for that little snippet of the top edge.
That is a good tip! But alas, our freezer stopped getting down to temperature and my attempts to repair failed. We have had an LG now for a couple of years ... I like the icemaker in the door for easy repair access (if needed) ... and Samsungs after ours had well known issues with their ice makers freezing up so did not want to chance buying another one. In any case I know that TH-cam will be there if help needed to fix our LG!
Part # as shown in video is DA97-08519A (paddles)... to get paddles w/ display unit included it is DA97-08518D
Thank you for posting the part numbers
Just fixed mine and this video was a great help in providing the info I needed to get the job done quickly. Used a Slim prying tool under each nub and a mallet to get past the mineral buildup.
Thanks! Watched the other you mentioned and couldn’t get the piece to slide out until I watched this. You saved me a lot of frustration and time!!
I appreciate you taking the time to help out, this is very helpful!
Thank you for making the video. This video helped me a lot to replace the ice paddle. Thank you for the tip to use a plastic putting knife. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. This filled in the gaps for me from the other video, particularly clipping the "nipples" (you highlighted them in green on your video). I used a thin hacksaw blade the cut them. the tabs did not create an issue in my case, it pulled right out once the nipples were cut.
Appreciate you man! The brute force method just wasn't working but I used a putty knife and it took me all of a minute to get it out
You should have showed how you pull the paddle unit out of the panel. That sure would have helped me more.
This was incredibly helpful. I encountered the same problems you detailed that were keeping the old paddle from sliding out. I had to break the tabs on the old part and sand down the metal on the housing to slide the new part in. I would never had known if it weren't for your video. Here's to crushed ice once again! Thank you!
I appreciate the feedback! I am still trying to find a way to remove the panel without using brute force, if you have any suggestions.
I had to use a butter knife to pry it open, thankfully without damage. Strength alone wasn't getting it done. One suggestion I'd make is just to cut the power to the refrigerator at the circuit breaker. It seems much safer than skipping it, and much easier than moving it to unplug it. My kitchen lights are on a different circuit, so it was perfect. After all time spent (about 1.5 hours total) coaxing off the panel, chipping away at the old unit, sanding down the metal housing, etc., moving a refrigerator would have been the last thing I wanted to do. Thanks again for this video!!
Thanks for the video!!! It was really helpful. I placed some duck tape around the panel to protect the stainless steel just overlapping the gaps. My refrigerator (Rf428hars/xaa) has a tab in the top middle and two on each side about 1 inch from corners. I locked the panel using the child lock function but I didn’t power off the refrig. Then I Inserted a thin bladed knife in the larger gag for the applicable tab and got things started. Then I just started prying around the refrig at the different tab location with butter knifes as the gaps got large enough. Eventually the panel popped off without using brute force which I think is a bad idea anyway. After getting the pane off, I broke off the vertical tabs and was able to remove the old paddle.
I also had some trouble removing the paddle assembly from the metal bracket due to corrosion and mineral buildup. Your video helped me identify the trouble spots. Some WD-40 and a little gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet solved the problem. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the feedback! Let me know if you found a better way to remove the unit from the front of the fridge - other than the brute force method.
Ditto on the great video. Once I clipped the vertical tabs with a pair of sharp electrician's dikes, it slid right out. It's amazing that the tabs were so strong and holding so well, yet it was the same plastic that broke, causing the issue in the first place.
Yes, a great video that has almost got me through the fix. After putting it all back together everything works except for being able to switch between cubed and crashed ice. I'm guessing I have not got good contact between the plate that says "cubed ice/crushed ice" and the springs that touch or on the other end of the springs. Before I pull it back apart I thought I might ask for any insight someone might have. Right now we get cubed ice just fine. Cubed was what it was set on before I started the disassembly. Thanks, Bob
Thanks! This - along with the video you referenced helped me get this done. The brute force method worked for me.
Good to hear!
OMG I had such a hard time sliding the component out until you stated you clipped off the tabs. That finally allowed me to remove it.
Good to hear! Did you use the brute force method to remove the front panel or did you have success with a gentler approach?
Thanks so much for the tips about the catches during removal. After some prying and lubing with silicone spray, I was able to slide that bad rabbit out of place, clean back up and then snap in the replacement piece.
Always good to get feedback! I understand the newer models have ice makers that freeze over. Our daughter has such a unit and they have to buy ice and keep in the freezer.
Great video! We had the same problem with the mineral deposits preventing the slide out. Put thin putty knife in-between the plastic to break the deposit hold..slid it all the way around. then lifted the nipple parts with two small eyeglass screwdrivers and it slid right out.
Thanks! Good to hear about your technique.
Great explanation. Changed out in 16 minutes
Tell me. What technique did you use to remove the panel? Brute force? Blue tape and a thin flathead screwdriver? Other?
richie
Used a rag in my hand, Brute quick! Force.
My wife was getting a card to use. Before she came back it was out.
WD -40 next hold screen in one hand with rag. Place rag on paddles. Hit it with a a hammer again quick!
Clean it up, slide on new paddles, plug in cables, snap it back in place, plug it in and dispense ice for a drink!!
Don’t be intimidated
Just get in there and do it!
worked for me, thanks
Just found your video. THANK YOU very much Very helpful. I love the SAMSUNG and this has been the only problem in many years. THANKS and again and Happy New Year, Cheers to 2021
Thanks for the feedback. I am still happy with ours - but our daughter and her husband have a newer one that has the ice maker issue that freezes up. They have to keep a store bought bag of ice in the freezer - so I would not buy a new one unless reviews indicate that issue was resolved. The flapper spring just broke on our door and I had to use an elastic band as a temporary fix, but a $12 replacement spring is on the way and a TH-cam video shows how to replace without any tools required.
TIP #1... to make the "yank out method" much easier = ok to gingerly pry w/ tip of a butter knife to pop the "face panel" out (i did so away from corners... thought I'd ruin the stainless steel, but it is nice and solid, thankfully)
I am a bit surprised by the number of views - 17,000 and counting. The average watch time is 2 minutes, and viewed from 5 countries.
I hope Samsung realizes this might be a problem … though I love the refrigerator and would probably buy it again.
oh...one more tip, you need not yank the display panel out. Remove the screw first. Then use a putty knife to start open along the same side where the screw was put.
TIP #2... "green tabs" = you can insert 2 pennies in front of them after prying up w/ a little screwdriver = then slides apart (it's like needing 2 people to turn the nuclear keys apart from one another, the way the tabs seat... so un-seat them to slide)
I have the same frig (Samsung RF4287HARS-XAA) my paddles and switched are working fine, but ice and water only work some times. Icemaker is working fine, so any ideas on why the paddles are not working every time?
If you hear the click of the microswitches I can't be of much help. A wiring diagram, if you can find one, might give some clues. Seems like the water paddle should be the simplest since it activates the water solenoid, but don't know if that goes through a processor board or if it simply connects power to the water solenoid. If you find an answer be sure to let me know!
Hi, do u know where I can find the part number for this and for the Display?
At a site like appliancepartspro.com or easyapplianceparts.com enter the exact model number of your Samsung refrigerator. The paddle assembly is about $115 or the paddle assembly including the display is about $235. If any doubt contact them directly to be sure you get the right part.
@@rgrams1 Thanks! Much Appreciated
We’re did you buy the part??
Consider Amazon for $69 which also has free returns. Search "Samsung da97-08519a". But be sure to cross reference with your exact fridge model number.
TIP #3... hit the "THUMBS UP" BUTTON PEOPLE -- I OWE YOU A BIG GLASS OF ICE WATER... THANKS!!!
Instead of putty knife, Use credit cards, thin and strong. the two green tabs are what holds the levers in place, work those out with the putty knife and it comes out more easily. Not sure why but now my water dispenser isn't working!
Credit cards. I will have to try that next time, though I have told my wife that pressing on the ice paddle does make ice come out faster, so maybe the fix will last awhile. If your water does not work, does the water symbol light on the front panel? Tried reseting by unplugging and plugging back in? Hear the water solenoid clunk when pressed?
@@rgrams1 seems the right side of the water paddle works, just not "straight on" I may have done something strange, but everything works now an I couldn't have done it without your video! Forever grateful.