Couple things about the video - This is my third video on these extended drains. I’m not advocating extended drain intervals, BUT This is a V6 port injected naturally aspirated engine that historically has always put up extremeLy good used oil analysis’s around the globe. A little devil’s advocate on “oil is cheap engines are not”…If I were to do 12,000 mile intervals vs say 3,000 mile intervals for the life of the vehicle (200,000 miles and I’m sure it can likely go to 500,000), on 200,000 mile intervals that would equal 17 oil changes vs 67 oil changes. At let’s say $100 dollars an oil change paying a shop to do it, you’d spend $4,966 to do those 3,000 mile oil changes and $4,000 if doing 5,000 mile intervals vs $1,700 doing extended drains. That’s something when you consider you’re more likely to hit a deer or have your car rust out before you’ll blow an engine in one of these things.
Do you put in a dose of fuel injector cleaner once a year?. How about doing an oil pressure comparison at hot idling rpm & a ride at 3000 rpm at coolant temperature of 185 to 190 F. Do this after a fresh oil & new filter change vs just before the next oil change. At 3200rpm hot the new oil filter vs used oil filter the oil pressure will just be higher by 5psi?.
@@whlawson5812 I haven’t done a fuel injector cleaner in years on port injected vehicles. I find that port injectors are just so good now that the spray pattern with the additives in top tier fuel, will spray and clean across the face of the injector. Direct injection I’d consider it. I used to run some cleaners through my direct injected vehicles…did the intake cleanings and added a catch can. I’ve never tried the oil pressure new vs used. I imagine the used filter will throw a slightly higher oil pressure vs a new filter?
That’s absurd and bullshite. If you want to run extended oil change intervals in your toyota you go for it but don’t advise people to do it. You ask any good mechanic if this is a good idea and I can guarantee you he will say he’ll no. I do my own oil changes and it certainly don’t cost me $100.00 every time I change my own oil. My oil gets dropped when it turns brown which is usually at 5000 kilometres depending on time of year and how often it’s driven. I get my oil filters in bulk so they only cost $10.00 each ( Honda Oem filters ) and I buy valvoline full synthetic 5w30 when it’s on sale in 20 litre containers which equates to approximately $50.00 per oil change. Your numbers are way out of order.
@@iallreadyknowsunshine57 this is why I like doing this because I get to hear from people that don’t know what they’re talking about, like you for example. A good mechanic? I’m an ASE Master tech, if you had enough attention span to follow a video you’d see that I’m not telling anyone to do this, and I’m very specific about engine types, fuel systems, and analysis. This is way above your head.
Thank you for Great video. I have VW PASSAT 2.5 i JUST PASSED THE 250000 MILES, I change my oil myself, every 6 to 8 K miles, all the fluids change every other year. the engines are notorious for PCV problems. Valve Cover gasket, and routine brake, battery replacements. the engine still good w never had to add oil between the oil change. Love the car. Thank you for you great videos.
In 1980 I bought a BMW 320I. I did 21000 mile oil changes back then. I used Amsoil. I sold the car with over 180000 miles and the engine still looked new under the valve cover.
21,000 mile oil changes? I have definitely heard of people going that far, but they are few and far between. Someone suggested I try it with Amsoil, but I just can’t bring myself to do it - I’m sure it would be fine - but I just can’t convince myself to do it.
@@doublebase6509 - Oi. I work for Toyota Engineering (TME) in Brussels, where the standard maintenance interval is around 15,000 kilometers. This isn't an arbitrary number but rather a deliberate choice to maintain the reliability and longevity of Toyota vehicles. In my experience, a 5W30 motor oil is an excellent choice for our cars. When it comes to oil brands, I have a few favorites. In the U.S., Pennzoil is an outstanding option, while here in Europe, Shell Helix Ultra is the preferred choice. If you're looking for something even better, I recommend Ravenol-a German brand that might be a bit more expensive but is absolutely worth it. And for those who might laugh at Amsoil, let me tell you, they know exactly what they're doing! Personally, I order Amsoil SS 10W30 through suppliers in Germany or the Netherlands for my high-revving, compact Honda engines. I also use it for my GXV pro-spec lawn mower, which is not to be confused with the hobby mowers you find in hardware stores. For my BMW X5 F15 3.0 diesel, I use Helix Ultra GTL 0W30, which is the standard recommended in the garage. This oil perfectly matches the vehicle's performance and provides the necessary protection, even under demanding conditions. With choices like these, you ensure that the engine remains in top condition, minimizing wear and contamination. Now, why does Toyota recommend maintenance every 15,000 kilometers when some other brands, particularly German ones, go up to 30,000 kilometers or even longer? The answer is straightforward: reliability and durability. Toyota has a reputation for building long-lasting vehicles, and more frequent maintenance, including oil changes, is part of that strategy. It ensures that critical components like the engine and transmission operate under optimal conditions, thereby extending the vehicle's lifespan. European leasing vehicles, on the other hand, often have longer service intervals dictated by leasing companies' maintenance contracts. To keep costs low, these contracts specify extended intervals, which has pushed some manufacturers, especially German ones, to adjust their maintenance schedules to remain competitive in the leasing market. While this approach might work in some cases, it can also lead to issues such as increased engine wear. Take Audi, for example. They once experimented with a 50,000-kilometer oil change interval, but this backfired. Many vehicles suffered engine damage due to oil contamination and insufficient lubrication, eventually leading to a revision of their maintenance guidelines. Similarly, Volkswagen's "pumpe-düse" diesel engines encountered problems when the wrong oil was used. These engines were designed to operate under extremely high pressures, and using the wrong type of oil or extending maintenance intervals could cause severe damage. I hope the information above and below gives you some practical insights into oil choices and maintenance schedules. For Toyota vehicles, a 0W30 oil can also be a good option, depending on your driving conditions. As for 0W20 oil, it’s mainly promoted for its supposed fuel economy benefits. However, let's be honest: this is often more about marketing than actual results. Ultimately, choosing the right oil is crucial to maintaining your vehicle's health. Whether you opt for a reliable 5W30, a premium brand like Amsoil, or even a 0W30 for specific conditions, make sure it's a quality product. Toyota's 15,000-kilometer maintenance interval is there for a reason: to ensure your car stays in peak shape for the long haul. Ps : Nothing wrong with having an oil-OCD. :) Grtz.
You nailed it, I’m dying to take a look. I need more of an excuse than just fun/curiosity, I’d need a valve cover gasket replacement or spark plug seals. But I’ll tell yeah, if those don’t fail soon I may end up doing it anyway. I’m sitting at 151,000 miles now, all my oil changes since 70,000 miles have been 10,000 miles using either Mobil1, Amsoil, or Pennzoil. All three good quality oils, it should be clean under there, if not? I’ll bump it down to 5,000 miles again. I expect the front valve cover to be cleaner than the rear/backside. Usually that’s the case…backside is covered with the intake manifold and doesn’t get the airflow and additional cooling as the front valve cover.
That port injected Toyota is the perfect candidate for long change intervals. Does it have auto start/stop? I may try it on my 2006 Highlander Hybrid which turns off all the time. Currently running PUP 5W30. I won't do it on my GDI Mazda 2.5 or my Chevy GDI 5.3 with cylinder deactivation. Too risky for me. 5000 mile changes with 5W30 is my preference.
I feel exactly the same way. I’d only do this in my port injected Toyota V6 with a reasonable commute. I wouldn’t do this in a direct injected engine with a tough commute or anything like that. For that, I’m sticking in the 5,000 mile range.
I’ll switch between extended and signature series. I changed my oil every 5,000 miles or 3 months whichever comes first. I own a 2022 Ford Transit with 3.5 ecoboost engine.
I wouldn’t suggest doing what I did quite honestly (switching oils frequently like I’ve been doing). When you do an oil change you are still leaving quite a bit of the old oil in that engine because you can’t get it all out…different brands have different additive packages and base stocks. You will be mixing these if you’re switching brands, and the additives may not mesh as well as you’d like. Technically this ^^^ is what is said to be true, however I don’t think much damage (if any) is going to occur. But why do it if you can avoid it? Then again why don’t I stick to just one oil myself? I should take my own advice and be wiser for it. 😁😁
Honestly, I probably wouldn’t advise it unless it was ideal driving conditions, and you check the oil level frequently. Along with knowing what type of engine you have (I wouldn’t if it’s the four cylinder because I believe they are known to have oil consumption and ring problems).
@@doublebase6509 its the 2AR-FE and yes it will start consuming oil if i don't take care of it. Now there's is no consumption or there's a little like 300ml every 5k miles which is acceptable. I bought pennzoil platinum 0w20 with fram filter 15k miles interval but still didn't change it . I will test it for 10k miles and see.
@@aurorayoru5333 if your car burned through half the oil in a 5,000 mile interval, you have bigger problems than oil, oil type and oil change intervals.
@@doublebase6509 well the engine doesn’t burn oil since it’s a new engine replaced under warranty it’s may be only three years old I change the oil every 5000 km
I honestly don’t see sludge in engines anymore even with 20,000 mile intervals UNLESS there is a specific design flaw with the PCV valve system or cooling system.
242,000 on my 2GE-FE with the recommended oil at recommended intervals. Saved more on oil changes than the vehicle is worth. It can blow up right now and I’m still ahead.
@@rdspam incredible engines. The recommended interval is 10,000 miles using 0W20. I could probably run maple syrup and go 20,000 miles between intervals and the thing would make it to 300,000. But I wouldn’t try this on most engines.
It helps if you check your wear with an oil analysis... as sometimes the wear is excessive but it's not obvious. It helps if you bond a lubricant to your engine so that engine wear is reduced irrespective of oil change intervals and oil quality. :-)
@@MichaelCzajka yeah I posted my analysis at the end of this video (I think, I’m not sure). Wear metals were less than 1ppm per 1,000 miles. I like your idea of sticking to one oil, I’ve tried that but I tend to experiment with things on sale/rebate. Blackstone has been known to be off in their fuel flashpoint tests (from what I’ve read), and they don’t offer a oxidation test, which I think is telling on base stock quality and how an oil performs on a longer interval. I’ve done a few analysis’s, I’m not sure I’ll do more on this engine . I think I have a good read on this one - and with these tests getting more and more expensive it’s not worth it to me on this car
If you only count the wear metals: It's 9 ppm before and after. That's a very good outcome for 10,000 (16,000 km) and 12,000 (19,000 km) miles At that rate the engine is going to last a LONG time. There is little danger of destroying the engine prematurely if you continue at this rate. 🙂 P.S. Pretty low silicon (dirt) too. That's probably because you live in an urban area. A desert environment or series of dirt roads would increase the levels significantly. Dirt will wear out your engine very quickly e.g. If you can halve your silicon intake it will roughly double engine lifespan... and visa-versa.
I averaged .75 ppm per 1,000 miles on that 12,000 mile run. I was pretty happy with that. Insolubles were next to nothing, and fuel is not an issue with this engine. It’s the perfect candidate for 10,000 mile intervals, but I wouldn’t do this without doing some research first. I wouldn’t do it on a DI engine with a turbo right now.
@@doublebase6509 It's obvious that some cars/oils can't take long oil changes. The best way to work out if it's safe or not is an oil analysis. You're the first person I've seen work out the wear/1,000 miles. I wonder why the oil analysis companies don't do it this way? It seems like the best way to compare. Instead they seem to rely on a fixed mileage... which can be misleading if you travel less or more than the default figure. :-)
@@doublebase6509 Wear in our two Yaris' was reduced by 50~90% by bonding a lubricant to the metal. We stick to the standard 10,000 km oil changes even though we could probably go ~30% further on the oil. N.B. In our Mitsubishi Colt the engine got so quiet after treatment that we couldn't hear it... even when it was revved. :-)
@@doublebase6509 Turbo's have always been very sensitive to oil quality: Thus they are bad candidates for extended oil changes. Direct Injection engines tend to have a lot of fuel dilution... which compromises lubrication (by thinning the oil): This would make them bad candidates for extended oil changes. 🙂
@@MichaelCzajka if I were to continue doing oil analysis’s on this engine I’d probably switch to another company, their comments are usually the same…”looks good, try another 2-3k miles”. They’ve been known to be off on their fuel dilution numbers and they don’t offer an oxidation number. I’m always curious about oxidation numbers because if an oxidation number comes back high around 30-35, I know the oil has group lV base stocks in it, and not just hydrocracked group lll base stocks. I know high oxidation levels are “bad”, but if they start out high and don’t increase, that’s a very good sign the oil has some high quality/expensive base stocks.
@@doublebase6509 extended oil change intervals aren't going to help you. They are meant for fleets that write the vehicles off as depreciating assets on their taxes. They don't expect their vehicles to be in service over 200k miles, they junk em after X years and mileage. Also car manufactures get tax credits for being able to suggest those 10k mile service intervals, if they recommended shorter oil change intervals they get hit with fees because their vehicles pollute the environment by requiring more waste oil.
@@JrSpitty I agree with all you wrote, only thing…this engine (2GRFE) is not a fuel diluting direct injected/tough on oil, engine. These things don’t consume oil or have turbos, and they historically have produced excellent results on 10,000 mile intervals. Having said that, I actually like changing my oil, it’s therapeutic somehow…but I’ll tell you what, there is a guy who just went 1 million miles on his Honda Accord doing 15,000 mile oil change intervals. Original engine. And I have worked for those fleets you speak of, we NEVER had to open up an engine because of our extended cost saving oil change intervals. And some of those engines went 12,000 miles more than once. We’d send them to the auction at around 150,000 miles but the engine was the least of our problems with them by then.
@@doublebase6509 It's often the other stuff that wears out that determines how long you keep a car... not the engine. Auto transmissions in particular are very expensive to repair or replace (a good argument for manual transmissions)... however other repairs can also build up to a level where the cost of repairs exceeds the vehicle. Once that happens... it's often worth buying something new. Our engines are always OK when we sell cars... but usually something else usually happens e.g.. Perhaps somebody totals the car? Our engines have gone as far as 2,000,000 km without a rebuild. The car was eventually sold because the rust became excessive. 🙂
@@MichaelCzajka yeah exactly, it’s almost never the engine. Rust will probably get half the vehicles off the road before an engine will. And like you said it’s the big ticket items that add up and make people say…I’m not keeping this thing any longer (the suspension , transmission, stuff like that). People wisely might want to rethink a $3,000 dollar repair on a vehicle that’s ten years old with 250,000 miles because there’s most likely another 2-3k in repairs waiting around the corner…or 200 pounds of rust eating a hole underneath.
I use Pennzoil oil and my advice is if you want extended oils to be using your vehicle use only 10,000 Mi protection that's it I would not try anything over 10,000 Mi oil protection but also keep this in mind do not exceed beyond the 10,000 me protection that the oil is good for if any bring your car in at 9000 me for oil change but once again do not extend past the 10,000 my protection the oil is good for are you will suffer the consequences of damaging your engine for me personally I'm not with this 10,000 Mi or these 20,000 Mi oil protection extension to me that is insane but there's a reason why Pennzoil did not go further than 10,000 protection oil because they know they're not going to become reliable for your engine damage to me that is a smart safe bet for an oil company like them as far as I'm concerned Pennzoil has a very strong film strength natural gas base because it's much cleaner than crude oil and because of that idea the natural gas base oil being a much cleaner oil base is it game changer because Pennzoil don't have to use as much cleaning agents to keep the inside of your engine clean and that's what penso had figured out using natural gas base was a smart move for them so the cleaner the oil base is the longer the oil will last from a cleaner engine so that being said yes just because the dipstick showed that the oil is still light brown at 10,000 miles that don't mean you should go beyond that to prove the point and that's when your taking it on your own wrist that Hensel would not cover you Beyond 10,000 mile keep that in mind stick with 9,000 MI to get your oil changed before 10,000 MI
Hate to break this to you, but Pennzoil platinum is guaranteed for 15,000 mile oil change intervals, and Pennzoil Ultra is now a 20,000 mile interval oil. And their has to liquid base stocks are purchased by Mobil1 and others now.
@@doublebase6509 well that's a surprise cuz I never seen any on their bottles they go beyond 10,000 miles and what fact support what you just said because that's what I use on all my vehicles for years
Yeah they changed it six months ago. Everyone knew their oils were more than capable of going more than 10,000 miles, now it’s printed right on the bottle. www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-motor-oils/pennzoil-platinum.html Here’s the information on BOTH THE Platinum and Ultra. bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/pennzoil-15-000-20-000-mile-protection-guarantee.384942/ And I was at Walmart tonight, it’s right there in BOLD on the bottles now.
Because that’s not going to happen. I believe in data. I’m also an ASE Master Tech. This engine will easily last me 300,000 miles if I put maple syrup in it for 20,000 mile intervals. I wouldn’t do 10,000 mile intervals if it were a four cylinder directed injected turbo, that’s totally different. As far as saving, I could care less but over the life of this vehicle I’ll save $6,000 doing 10,000 mile intervals compared to let’s say 3,000 mile intervals.
My thought is change it every 3K with a cheap oil they put on sale (Walmart) + filter. Instead of paying big on replacing the engine. From 10K interval guy I went to 3K. The price of expensive oil like Amsoil is almost the equivalent of 3 regular 6qrt. I noticed that running a fresh oil every 3K works for me instead of 10K long intervals.
Couple things about the video - This is my third video on these extended drains. I’m not advocating extended drain intervals, BUT This is a V6 port injected naturally aspirated engine that historically has always put up extremeLy good used oil analysis’s around the globe. A little devil’s advocate on “oil is cheap engines are not”…If I were to do 12,000 mile intervals vs say 3,000 mile intervals for the life of the vehicle (200,000 miles and I’m sure it can likely go to 500,000), on 200,000 mile intervals that would equal 17 oil changes vs 67 oil changes. At let’s say $100 dollars an oil change paying a shop to do it, you’d spend $4,966 to do those 3,000 mile oil changes and $4,000 if doing 5,000 mile intervals vs $1,700 doing extended drains. That’s something when you consider you’re more likely to hit a deer or have your car rust out before you’ll blow an engine in one of these things.
Do you put in a dose of fuel injector cleaner once a year?. How about doing an oil pressure comparison at hot idling rpm & a ride at 3000 rpm at coolant temperature of 185 to 190 F. Do this after a fresh oil & new filter change vs just before the next oil change. At 3200rpm hot the new oil filter vs used oil filter the oil pressure will just be higher by 5psi?.
@@whlawson5812 I haven’t done a fuel injector cleaner in years on port injected vehicles. I find that port injectors are just so good now that the spray pattern with the additives in top tier fuel, will spray and clean across the face of the injector. Direct injection I’d consider it. I used to run some cleaners through my direct injected vehicles…did the intake cleanings and added a catch can. I’ve never tried the oil pressure new vs used. I imagine the used filter will throw a slightly higher oil pressure vs a new filter?
That’s absurd and bullshite. If you want to run extended oil change intervals in your toyota you go for it but don’t advise people to do it. You ask any good mechanic if this is a good idea and I can guarantee you he will say he’ll no. I do my own oil changes and it certainly don’t cost me $100.00 every time I change my own oil. My oil gets dropped when it turns brown which is usually at 5000 kilometres depending on time of year and how often it’s driven. I get my oil filters in bulk so they only cost $10.00 each ( Honda Oem filters ) and I buy valvoline full synthetic 5w30 when it’s on sale in 20 litre containers which equates to approximately $50.00 per oil change. Your numbers are way out of order.
@@iallreadyknowsunshine57 this is why I like doing this because I get to hear from people that don’t know what they’re talking about, like you for example. A good mechanic? I’m an ASE Master tech, if you had enough attention span to follow a video you’d see that I’m not telling anyone to do this, and I’m very specific about engine types, fuel systems, and analysis. This is way above your head.
Just asked about this topic on another one of videos. And here you are answering it. 😂
Thank you for Great video. I have VW PASSAT 2.5 i JUST PASSED THE 250000 MILES, I change my oil myself, every 6 to 8 K miles, all the fluids change every other year. the engines are notorious for PCV problems. Valve Cover gasket, and routine brake, battery replacements. the engine still good w never had to add oil between the oil change. Love the car. Thank you for you great videos.
Thank you for watching. Nice work on your Passat! Keep that thing going…250,000 miles isn’t easy.
In 1980 I bought a BMW 320I. I did 21000 mile oil changes back then. I used Amsoil. I sold the car with over 180000 miles and the engine still looked new under the valve cover.
21,000 mile oil changes? I have definitely heard of people going that far, but they are few and far between. Someone suggested I try it with Amsoil, but I just can’t bring myself to do it - I’m sure it would be fine - but I just can’t convince myself to do it.
@@doublebase6509 - Oi.
I work for Toyota Engineering (TME) in Brussels, where the standard maintenance interval is around 15,000 kilometers. This isn't an arbitrary number but rather a deliberate choice to maintain the reliability and longevity of Toyota vehicles. In my experience, a 5W30 motor oil is an excellent choice for our cars. When it comes to oil brands, I have a few favorites. In the U.S., Pennzoil is an outstanding option, while here in Europe, Shell Helix Ultra is the preferred choice.
If you're looking for something even better, I recommend Ravenol-a German brand that might be a bit more expensive but is absolutely worth it. And for those who might laugh at Amsoil, let me tell you, they know exactly what they're doing! Personally, I order Amsoil SS 10W30 through suppliers in Germany or the Netherlands for my high-revving, compact Honda engines. I also use it for my GXV pro-spec lawn mower, which is not to be confused with the hobby mowers you find in hardware stores.
For my BMW X5 F15 3.0 diesel, I use Helix Ultra GTL 0W30, which is the standard recommended in the garage. This oil perfectly matches the vehicle's performance and provides the necessary protection, even under demanding conditions. With choices like these, you ensure that the engine remains in top condition, minimizing wear and contamination.
Now, why does Toyota recommend maintenance every 15,000 kilometers when some other brands, particularly German ones, go up to 30,000 kilometers or even longer? The answer is straightforward: reliability and durability. Toyota has a reputation for building long-lasting vehicles, and more frequent maintenance, including oil changes, is part of that strategy. It ensures that critical components like the engine and transmission operate under optimal conditions, thereby extending the vehicle's lifespan.
European leasing vehicles, on the other hand, often have longer service intervals dictated by leasing companies' maintenance contracts. To keep costs low, these contracts specify extended intervals, which has pushed some manufacturers, especially German ones, to adjust their maintenance schedules to remain competitive in the leasing market. While this approach might work in some cases, it can also lead to issues such as increased engine wear.
Take Audi, for example. They once experimented with a 50,000-kilometer oil change interval, but this backfired. Many vehicles suffered engine damage due to oil contamination and insufficient lubrication, eventually leading to a revision of their maintenance guidelines. Similarly, Volkswagen's "pumpe-düse" diesel engines encountered problems when the wrong oil was used. These engines were designed to operate under extremely high pressures, and using the wrong type of oil or extending maintenance intervals could cause severe damage.
I hope the information above and below gives you some practical insights into oil choices and maintenance schedules. For Toyota vehicles, a 0W30 oil can also be a good option, depending on your driving conditions. As for 0W20 oil, it’s mainly promoted for its supposed fuel economy benefits. However, let's be honest: this is often more about marketing than actual results.
Ultimately, choosing the right oil is crucial to maintaining your vehicle's health. Whether you opt for a reliable 5W30, a premium brand like Amsoil, or even a 0W30 for specific conditions, make sure it's a quality product. Toyota's 15,000-kilometer maintenance interval is there for a reason: to ensure your car stays in peak shape for the long haul.
Ps : Nothing wrong with having an oil-OCD. :)
Grtz.
Pop of a valve cover and see how it looks inside?
You nailed it, I’m dying to take a look. I need more of an excuse than just fun/curiosity, I’d need a valve cover gasket replacement or spark plug seals. But I’ll tell yeah, if those don’t fail soon I may end up doing it anyway. I’m sitting at 151,000 miles now, all my oil changes since 70,000 miles have been 10,000 miles using either Mobil1, Amsoil, or Pennzoil. All three good quality oils, it should be clean under there, if not? I’ll bump it down to 5,000 miles again. I expect the front valve cover to be cleaner than the rear/backside. Usually that’s the case…backside is covered with the intake manifold and doesn’t get the airflow and additional cooling as the front valve cover.
That port injected Toyota is the perfect candidate for long change intervals. Does it have auto start/stop? I may try it on my 2006 Highlander Hybrid which turns off all the time. Currently running PUP 5W30. I won't do it on my GDI Mazda 2.5 or my Chevy GDI 5.3 with cylinder deactivation. Too risky for me. 5000 mile changes with 5W30 is my preference.
I feel exactly the same way. I’d only do this in my port injected Toyota V6 with a reasonable commute. I wouldn’t do this in a direct injected engine with a tough commute or anything like that. For that, I’m sticking in the 5,000 mile range.
I’ll switch between extended and signature series. I changed my oil every 5,000 miles or 3 months whichever comes first. I own a 2022 Ford Transit with 3.5 ecoboost engine.
I wouldn’t suggest doing what I did quite honestly (switching oils frequently like I’ve been doing). When you do an oil change you are still leaving quite a bit of the old oil in that engine because you can’t get it all out…different brands have different additive packages and base stocks. You will be mixing these if you’re switching brands, and the additives may not mesh as well as you’d like. Technically this ^^^ is what is said to be true, however I don’t think much damage (if any) is going to occur. But why do it if you can avoid it? Then again why don’t I stick to just one oil myself? I should take my own advice and be wiser for it. 😁😁
This is impressive. Can i do these extended changes on my 2015 camry?
Honestly, I probably wouldn’t advise it unless it was ideal driving conditions, and you check the oil level frequently. Along with knowing what type of engine you have (I wouldn’t if it’s the four cylinder because I believe they are known to have oil consumption and ring problems).
@@doublebase6509 its the 2AR-FE and yes it will start consuming oil if i don't take care of it. Now there's is no consumption or there's a little like 300ml every 5k miles which is acceptable. I bought pennzoil platinum 0w20 with fram filter 15k miles interval but still didn't change it . I will test it for 10k miles and see.
@@emadalkahroosi let me know how that goes, I’ve used Pennzoil Platinum in the past and it’s a solid oil. How many miles do you have on that Camry?
@@doublebase6509 147k miles
@@doublebase6509 147k miles
5k on full sync period!
Wrong!
that's way too long my car burned half the oil even with ultra platinum
@@aurorayoru5333 if your car burned through half the oil in a 5,000 mile interval, you have bigger problems than oil, oil type and oil change intervals.
@@aurorayoru5333 check your PCV valve & do a BG EPR oil flush to clean your rings, how many miles ya got?
@@doublebase6509 well the engine doesn’t burn oil since it’s a new engine replaced under warranty it’s may be only three years old I change the oil every 5000 km
No sense to overpay for boutique Amsoil
Of course,any vehicles that have extended oil change intervals will sludge up over time and fail. Oil is cheap-engines are not.
I honestly don’t see sludge in engines anymore even with 20,000 mile intervals UNLESS there is a specific design flaw with the PCV valve system or cooling system.
Funny. No sludge in any of my cars with 10k mile oil change intervals. It's not 1970s oil anymore.
Regardless! Rule of thumb 5K or 6 months. Even with Amsoil. .
I like rules of thumbs with oil, I made a video on it, however there are exceptions. This video shows that.
242,000 on my 2GE-FE with the recommended oil at recommended intervals. Saved more on oil changes than the vehicle is worth. It can blow up right now and I’m still ahead.
@@rdspam incredible engines. The recommended interval is 10,000 miles using 0W20. I could probably run maple syrup and go 20,000 miles between intervals and the thing would make it to 300,000. But I wouldn’t try this on most engines.
It helps if you check your wear with an oil analysis... as sometimes the wear is excessive but it's not obvious.
It helps if you bond a lubricant to your engine so that engine wear is reduced irrespective of oil change intervals and oil quality.
:-)
@@MichaelCzajka yeah I posted my analysis at the end of this video (I think, I’m not sure). Wear metals were less than 1ppm per 1,000 miles. I like your idea of sticking to one oil, I’ve tried that but I tend to experiment with things on sale/rebate. Blackstone has been known to be off in their fuel flashpoint tests (from what I’ve read), and they don’t offer a oxidation test, which I think is telling on base stock quality and how an oil performs on a longer interval. I’ve done a few analysis’s, I’m not sure I’ll do more on this engine . I think I have a good read on this one - and with these tests getting more and more expensive it’s not worth it to me on this car
If you only count the wear metals: It's 9 ppm before and after.
That's a very good outcome for 10,000 (16,000 km) and 12,000 (19,000 km) miles
At that rate the engine is going to last a LONG time.
There is little danger of destroying the engine prematurely if you continue at this rate.
🙂
P.S. Pretty low silicon (dirt) too. That's probably because you live in an urban area. A desert environment or series of dirt roads would increase the levels significantly. Dirt will wear out your engine very quickly e.g. If you can halve your silicon intake it will roughly double engine lifespan... and visa-versa.
I averaged .75 ppm per 1,000 miles on that 12,000 mile run. I was pretty happy with that. Insolubles were next to nothing, and fuel is not an issue with this engine. It’s the perfect candidate for 10,000 mile intervals, but I wouldn’t do this without doing some research first. I wouldn’t do it on a DI engine with a turbo right now.
@@doublebase6509 It's obvious that some cars/oils can't take long oil changes. The best way to work out if it's safe or not is an oil analysis.
You're the first person I've seen work out the wear/1,000 miles.
I wonder why the oil analysis companies don't do it this way?
It seems like the best way to compare.
Instead they seem to rely on a fixed mileage... which can be misleading if you travel less or more than the default figure.
:-)
@@doublebase6509 Wear in our two Yaris' was reduced by 50~90% by bonding a lubricant to the metal.
We stick to the standard 10,000 km oil changes even though we could probably go ~30% further on the oil.
N.B. In our Mitsubishi Colt the engine got so quiet after treatment that we couldn't hear it... even when it was revved.
:-)
@@doublebase6509 Turbo's have always been very sensitive to oil quality:
Thus they are bad candidates for extended oil changes.
Direct Injection engines tend to have a lot of fuel dilution... which compromises lubrication (by thinning the oil):
This would make them bad candidates for extended oil changes.
🙂
@@MichaelCzajka if I were to continue doing oil analysis’s on this engine I’d probably switch to another company, their comments are usually the same…”looks good, try another 2-3k miles”. They’ve been known to be off on their fuel dilution numbers and they don’t offer an oxidation number. I’m always curious about oxidation numbers because if an oxidation number comes back high around 30-35, I know the oil has group lV base stocks in it, and not just hydrocracked group lll base stocks. I know high oxidation levels are “bad”, but if they start out high and don’t increase, that’s a very good sign the oil has some high quality/expensive base stocks.
Stop fucking around.. change it every 3k and drive that thing for 500k.
Ok, what I’ll do is change it every 30 yards and drive it to 500,000🤣🤣
@@doublebase6509 extended oil change intervals aren't going to help you. They are meant for fleets that write the vehicles off as depreciating assets on their taxes. They don't expect their vehicles to be in service over 200k miles, they junk em after X years and mileage. Also car manufactures get tax credits for being able to suggest those 10k mile service intervals, if they recommended shorter oil change intervals they get hit with fees because their vehicles pollute the environment by requiring more waste oil.
@@JrSpitty I agree with all you wrote, only thing…this engine (2GRFE) is not a fuel diluting direct injected/tough on oil, engine. These things don’t consume oil or have turbos, and they historically have produced excellent results on 10,000 mile intervals. Having said that, I actually like changing my oil, it’s therapeutic somehow…but I’ll tell you what, there is a guy who just went 1 million miles on his Honda Accord doing 15,000 mile oil change intervals. Original engine. And I have worked for those fleets you speak of, we NEVER had to open up an engine because of our extended cost saving oil change intervals. And some of those engines went 12,000 miles more than once. We’d send them to the auction at around 150,000 miles but the engine was the least of our problems with them by then.
@@doublebase6509 It's often the other stuff that wears out that determines how long you keep a car... not the engine. Auto transmissions in particular are very expensive to repair or replace (a good argument for manual transmissions)... however other repairs can also build up to a level where the cost of repairs exceeds the vehicle. Once that happens... it's often worth buying something new. Our engines are always OK when we sell cars... but usually something else usually happens e.g.. Perhaps somebody totals the car?
Our engines have gone as far as 2,000,000 km without a rebuild. The car was eventually sold because the rust became excessive.
🙂
@@MichaelCzajka yeah exactly, it’s almost never the engine. Rust will probably get half the vehicles off the road before an engine will. And like you said it’s the big ticket items that add up and make people say…I’m not keeping this thing any longer (the suspension , transmission, stuff like that). People wisely might want to rethink a $3,000 dollar repair on a vehicle that’s ten years old with 250,000 miles because there’s most likely another 2-3k in repairs waiting around the corner…or 200 pounds of rust eating a hole underneath.
I use Pennzoil oil and my advice is if you want extended oils to be using your vehicle use only 10,000 Mi protection that's it I would not try anything over 10,000 Mi oil protection but also keep this in mind do not exceed beyond the 10,000 me protection that the oil is good for if any bring your car in at 9000 me for oil change but once again do not extend past the 10,000 my protection the oil is good for are you will suffer the consequences of damaging your engine for me personally I'm not with this 10,000 Mi or these 20,000 Mi oil protection extension to me that is insane but there's a reason why Pennzoil did not go further than 10,000 protection oil because they know they're not going to become reliable for your engine damage to me that is a smart safe bet for an oil company like them as far as I'm concerned Pennzoil has a very strong film strength natural gas base because it's much cleaner than crude oil and because of that idea the natural gas base oil being a much cleaner oil base is it game changer because Pennzoil don't have to use as much cleaning agents to keep the inside of your engine clean and that's what penso had figured out using natural gas base was a smart move for them so the cleaner the oil base is the longer the oil will last from a cleaner engine so that being said yes just because the dipstick showed that the oil is still light brown at 10,000 miles that don't mean you should go beyond that to prove the point and that's when your taking it on your own wrist that Hensel would not cover you Beyond 10,000 mile keep that in mind stick with 9,000 MI to get your oil changed before 10,000 MI
Hate to break this to you, but Pennzoil platinum is guaranteed for 15,000 mile oil change intervals, and Pennzoil Ultra is now a 20,000 mile interval oil. And their has to liquid base stocks are purchased by Mobil1 and others now.
@@doublebase6509 well that's a surprise cuz I never seen any on their bottles they go beyond 10,000 miles and what fact support what you just said because that's what I use on all my vehicles for years
Yeah they changed it six months ago. Everyone knew their oils were more than capable of going more than 10,000 miles, now it’s printed right on the bottle.
www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-motor-oils/pennzoil-platinum.html
Here’s the information on BOTH THE Platinum and Ultra.
bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/pennzoil-15-000-20-000-mile-protection-guarantee.384942/
And I was at Walmart tonight, it’s right there in BOLD on the bottles now.
Oil is so cheap compared to an engine. Why save 50 bucks and then pay for a new short block???
Because that’s not going to happen. I believe in data. I’m also an ASE Master Tech. This engine will easily last me 300,000 miles if I put maple syrup in it for 20,000 mile intervals. I wouldn’t do 10,000 mile intervals if it were a four cylinder directed injected turbo, that’s totally different. As far as saving, I could care less but over the life of this vehicle I’ll save $6,000 doing 10,000 mile intervals compared to let’s say 3,000 mile intervals.
If I hear that saying one more time! haha SOO GENERIC, lets get new material.
My thought is change it every 3K with a cheap oil they put on sale (Walmart) + filter. Instead of paying big on replacing the engine. From 10K interval guy I went to 3K. The price of expensive oil like Amsoil is almost the equivalent of 3 regular 6qrt. I noticed that running a fresh oil every 3K works for me instead of 10K long intervals.